MANAUS, BRAZIL: AMAZON RAINFOREST & RIVER ISLANDS SEPTEMBER 4–17, 2017 Guianan Cock-of-the-rock — Photo: Andrew Whittaker LEADER: ANDREW WHITTAKER LIST COMPILED BY: ANDREW WHITTAKER VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM MANAUS, BRAZIL: AMAZON RAINFOREST & RIVER ISLANDS September 4–17, 2017 By Andrew Whittaker Manaus, Brazil has to be one of the world’s major birding crossroads, smack in the middle of the enormous Amazon rainforest, at 5,500,000 km 2 (2,123,562 sq mi ) the richest biome on our planet! We joyfully immersed ourselves into this mega birding and natural history bonanza, managing a record-breaking 415 bird species due to this year’s very sharp-eyed group. We had an endless blast exploring the Amazon’s immense waterways, bird-rich river islands, and varied and exuberant rainforest habitats, thoroughly enjoying all of their stunning, unique avian species. At fruiting trees we were delighted by a feast of colorful cotingas, parrots, macaws, toucans, manakins, and barbets, while exciting night excursions produced the much wanted and mythical White-winged Potoo, as well as Great and Common potoos. Other trip highlights included a majestic pair of Black Curassows crossing the road at our lodge; a quick encounter with Gray-winged Trumpeter; flushing a rarely seen migrant Paint-billed Crake; close encounters with magnificent male Green-throated Mangos and a wondrous male Crimson Topaz (displaying) on our lodge grounds; and the rare Dotted Tanager found by Leon. However, the icing on the cake has to have been our exceptional cotingas! In-your-face views of some of the world’s great glamour birds, from the magnificent lekking Guianan Cocks-of-the-rock; male Purple-breasted, Spangled, and Pompadour cotingas; a very confiding Guianan Red-Cotinga; and I’m sure none of you will ever forget the extremely odd chainsaw-sounding and equally odd-looking Capuchinbirds we were privileged to see! A magical moment as I coaxed out a pair of majestic Black Curassows to cross the dirt road — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Manaus, Brazil: Amazon Rainforest & River Islands, 2017 We also managed superlative views of some rarely seen mammals, including the endemic not so cute looking Pied Tamarin; a trip first with a very confiding Giant Otter; the ever so cute group of Spix’s Night Monkeys (at their house); Golden-backed Squirrel Monkeys; and, of course, the incredible Pink River Dolphins —nobody could ask for much more! A spectacular male Purple-breasted Cotinga dazzled us in the sun — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Experiencing the wonders of two of the world’s mightiest rivers (the Amazon and Negro) was so much fun; we explored each of their different avian riches, white versus black water river islands. Engulfing the vast Amazonian waterways was the surrounding vast Amazon rainforest, which enchanted us all as we experienced its exotic life from as many angles as possible —in the canopy (from a couple of superb canopy towers) and exploring along secluded forest trails or remote dirt roads amongst towering emergent trees brimming with life and producing an incredible non-stop highlight of colorful birds and skulkers to keep us all happy. Not to mention all those unique sounds, amazingly pleasant scented evening flowers, and learning just some of this rainforest’s fascinating intricate web of life. This tour has been carefully planned, allowing us to explore the best of two exciting and extremely different avian endemic centers, the Guianan Shield and the distinct Imiri Centre. Several of you enjoyed our rich, birdy hotel grounds before the tour started, with impressive views of close feeding Scarlet Macaws being one of the many highlights. Our tour began with a bang, as the first official bird for the tour was a mouthwatering pair of Opal-rumped Tanagers on an afternoon visit to a private forest reserve which had many excellent small fruiting trees. This was followed by the likes of Pompadour Cotinga, outstanding Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Manaus, Brazil: Amazon Rainforest & River Islands, 2017 scope views of a group of Dusky Parrots, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Paradise Jacamar, Red- billed Pied Tanager, White-throated and Channel-billed toucans, Blue-headed Parrot, and a super Golden-sided Euphonia! Female Red-billed Pied Tanager — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Our first full day of birding was spent exploring the rich birdlife on white water river islands and várzea forest in the mighty Amazon; here we witnessed the amazing dynamics of the fierce Amazon River as its high waters ripped apart many of my favored river islands, quickly changing the map and everything else too. However, we managed to enjoy most of the great riverine specialists, as well as many interesting migrant boreal shorebirds, breeding terns and skimmers too. Pre-dawn found us drifting in our private launch over the famous “meeting of the waters” where the Negro flows into the Amazon without mixing for 5 miles. We explored a picturesque sand bar/beach alive with displaying Large-billed and Yellow-billed terns, Black Skimmers, and Collared Plovers, and, best of all, superb displaying Sand-colored Nighthawks. Working the different dynamic types of transitional vegetation in the várzea forest (white-water flooded forest) we got off to explore various islands on foot, seeking out the special river island species Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Manaus, Brazil: Amazon Rainforest & River Islands, 2017 such as the cute Black-and White Antbird; Ladder-tailed Nightjar; Parker’s, White-bellied, and Pale-breasted spinetails; Band-tailed and Lesser horneros; the cool-looking Lesser Wagtail- Tyrant; and Riverside Tyrant. While Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Short-tailed Parrot, and Tui Parakeet flew overhead, Spot-breasted Woodpecker and Chestnut-bellied Seedeater were in Cecropia groves with two of the sought after specialists, Pearly-breasted Conebill and Brownish Elaenia. Spot-breasted Woodpecker — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Manaus, Brazil: Amazon Rainforest & River Islands, 2017 Golden-backed Squirrel Monkey on the Amazon — Photo: Andrew Whittaker An exciting first for the tour was a pair of Gull-billed Terns (first record ever for Manaus) and just about 5 minutes after I had commented to keep your eyes open for them! After our great meal on the floating restaurant, we walked along the very interesting elevated boardwalk through the midstory of the várzea forest and were rewarded with close observations of a foraging group of cute Golden-backed Squirrel Monkeys; wonderful close-up looks at Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl; the incredible Long-billed Woodcreeper; a superb, close Ringed Woodpecker; the recently re-discovered Zimmer’s Woodcreeper (even being able to compare it to the more common Straight-billed); and, of course, we enjoyed the famous giant Vitória- régia (Royal) Water Lilies. We also took a cool group photo at the sleeping giant of the várzea, a monster Kaipok tree! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Manaus, Brazil: Amazon Rainforest & River Islands, 2017 Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl — Photo: Andrew Whittaker The following day we crossed the mighty Rio Negro over the new impressive road bridge to the west bank and into the realms of the exciting “Imeri Endemic Centre.” On the way we gloated over stunning close flocks of Red-bellied Macaws at a palm grove. Here our base was in the quaint riverine town of Novo Airão (famous for its boat building) in our family-run forested lodge. The wooded grounds gave us a unique and fantastic opportunity to study a family of cute and poorly-known Spix’s Night Monkeys at their daytime hideout. Next up and always a great success was our enjoyable afternoon boat trip to the world’s largest riverine archipelago, the incomparable Anavilhanas Archipelago (and for me most beautiful in the world). The calm black waters of the Rio Negro formed an immense mirror image of forested banks and stark reflections in its isolated flooded igapó forest lakes. During a day-and-a-half exploration of these unique islands, channels, and lakes, we successfully found almost all of these black water riverine endemics and many other specialties, such as Red-throated Caracara; Festive Parrot; Klage’s, Cherrie’s, and Leaden antwrens; Ash-breasted and Black-chinned antbirds; Blackish- gray Antshrike; Green-tailed Jacamar; Wire-tailed Manakin; fabulous close-up studies of Band- tailed Nighthawks (including the new split) that danced to my playback just above our boat; and much more. Frustrating, however, we only heard both Crested and Ornate hawk-eagles without either showing. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Manaus, Brazil: Amazon Rainforest & River Islands, 2017 Giant Otter, a trip first and a wonderful surprise — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Always a mammal highlight was the likable pod of wild Pink River Dolphins we were lucky enough to observe at such extremely close quarters as they came in to feed on fish within a few feet of us all! They are really impressive at almost 7 feet long with a unique pink color, an articulated backbone (allowing them to hunt through flooded forests), and a 1.5 foot-long thin beak full of teeth! However, they are so-so delicate creatures, as we witnessed when several of you were able to touch the pod that came in to be fed. A wonderful confiding Giant Otter was a complete surprise and encouraging, as this species is coming back well from the illegal skin trade in the Amazon some 50 –70 years ago. Igapó forest – Photo: Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature