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Home , Francis Crozier, Gold Medal (RGS), Harry Goodsir, HMS Erebus (1826), HMS Investigator (1848), HMS Resolute (1850)

© National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, Greenwich, Museum, Maritime National ©

© National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London Greenwich, Museum, Maritime National ©

in 1834. in 9 7 10 8

him were Captain on HMS Erebus, Erebus, HMS on Fitzjames James Captain were him

Africa, returning to England to returning Africa,

Admiral of the Blue. the of Admiral

surveying of the North West Passage. Serving under under Serving Passage. West North the of surveying A

the Mediterranean and North North and Mediterranean the

promoted to Rear‐ to promoted

to lead a further expedition to finish the the finish to expedition Arctic further a lead to

then spent time travelling in in travelling time spent then

1852, Franklin had been been had Franklin 1852,

expedition?

lthough Franklin was by now 59, he was invited invited was he 59, now by was Franklin lthough

Hanover. John and his wife wife his and John Hanover.

Prior to this, in October October in this, to Prior

clues may be uncovered as to the fate of Franklin’s last last Franklin’s of fate the to as uncovered be may clues

EXPEDITION

of the Guelphic Order of of Order Guelphic the of

from the active list. list. active the from Compass Point Business Services 2018 Services Business Point Compass

exploration of the wrecks is ongoing – who knows what what knows who – ongoing is wrecks the of exploration

Greece, as a Knight Commander Commander Knight a as Greece,

dead and removed them them removed and dead

Design, & Print

Canadian Museum of History in 2017‐18. Further Further 2017‐18. in History of Museum Canadian 1845: THE FINAL FINAL THE 1845:

knighted, this time by the King of of King the by time this knighted,

of the expedition to be be to expedition the of by: Designed

National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, and at the the at and Greenwich, in Museum Maritime National

master, Turkey. Franklin was again again was Franklin Turkey. master,

declared all members members all declared

in an exhibition entitled “Death In the Ice” at the the at Ice” the In “Death entitled exhibition an in

independent Greece and its former former its and Greece independent

East Lindsey District Council © 2018 © Council District Lindsey East

this point the Admiralty Admiralty the point this

with relics found on the rescue missions, were displayed displayed were missions, rescue the on found relics with

back to England in 1843. in England to back

peace‐keeping between the newly newly the between peace‐keeping

by Produced

grave of the crews. At At crews. the of grave

the ship’s bell from HMS Erebus, dated 1845, together together 1845, dated Erebus, HMS from bell ship’s the Franklin himself was removed from office and ordered ordered and office from removed was himself Franklin

the Mediterranean to assist in in assist to Mediterranean the

starvation and mass mass and starvation

of . Relics brought up from the ships, including including ships, the from up brought Relics Canada. of Dean and Chapter of Westminster. of Chapter and Dean Following John’s dismissal of his Colonial Secretary, Secretary, Colonial his of dismissal John’s Following

a naval frigate, which proceeded to to proceeded which frigate, naval a

Inuit people told of the the of told people

wrecks are now designated as National Historic Sites Sites Historic National as designated now are wrecks National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London. London. Greenwich, Museum, Maritime National

1830 he accepted command of HMS Rainbow, Rainbow, HMS of command accepted he 1830

Government offices back in the UK, and locally. and UK, the in back offices Government

oral history from the the from history oral

water, with masts standing and hatches closed. Both Both closed. hatches and standing masts with water, Photographs by kind permission of Mick Holmes. Holmes. Mick of permission kind by Photographs

were married at Stanmore in Middlesex. In August August In Middlesex. in Stanmore at married were

was a difficult one, with conflicting influences from from influences conflicting with one, difficult a was

were brought back and and back brought were

Bay, south of , in 48 metres of of metres 48 in Island, William King of ,

interests. On 5th November 1828 John and Jane Jane and John 1828 November 5th On interests.

Hundleby Walkers are Welcome are Walkers Hundleby the Anniversary Regatta. Unfortunately, John’s position position John’s Unfortunately, Regatta. Anniversary the

1854, relics, including Franklin’s Guelphic medal, medal, Guelphic Franklin’s including relics, 1854,

Arctic Research Foundation, coincidentally in Terror Terror in coincidentally Foundation, Research Arctic

an accomplished woman with a wide range of of range wide a with woman accomplished an

Compiled by Stephanie Round, and and Spilsby Round, Stephanie by Compiled Tasmanian Natural History Society and establishing establishing and Society History Natural Tasmanian

lead poisoning due to badly sealed canned goods. In In goods. canned sealed badly to due poisoning lead

later the wreck of HMS Terror was also located by the the by located also was Terror HMS of wreck the later

close friend of Eleanor Porden, and, like her, was was her, like and, Porden, Eleanor of friend close

setting up an education system, founding the the founding system, education an up setting

had died of , pneumonia and possibly possibly and pneumonia tuberculosis, of died had Acknowledgements

near O’Reilly Island, in 11 metres of sea. Two years years Two sea. of metres 11 in Island, O’Reilly near

and he also remarried. Jane Griffin had been a a been had Griffin Jane remarried. also he and

instrumental in improving the convicts’ circumstances, circumstances, convicts’ the improving in instrumental

investigation as to their fate suggested that they they that suggested fate their to as investigation

that the wreck of HMS Erebus had been discovered discovered been had Erebus HMS of wreck the that

Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea” Sea” Polar the of Shores the to Expedition Second

Tasmania had long‐lasting influence. He and Jane were were Jane and He influence. long‐lasting had

crew members were found at . An An Island. Beechey at found were members crew

in September 2014 when announced announced Canada Parks when 2014 September in

He wrote up and published his “Narrative of a a of “Narrative his published and up wrote He

daughter Eleanor and two of his nieces. His tenure in in tenure His nieces. his of two and Eleanor daughter

but it was not until 1850 that the graves of three three of graves the that 1850 until not was it but Interest in Franklin’s last expedition was rekindled rekindled was expedition last Franklin’s in Interest

wife arrived in in June 1837, together with their their with together 1837, June in Hobart in arrived wife

In 1848 the first of many search expeditions set out out set expeditions search many of first the 1848 In George IV. IV. George

his body has ever been found. been ever has body his

with a piece of silver plate. Sir and his his and Franklin John Sir plate. silver of piece a with

the crew set off overland and eventually all perished. perished. all eventually and overland off set crew the and in 1829 he was knighted by King King by knighted was he 1829 in and medal gold

by Crozier and Fitzjames. Neither Franklin’s grave nor nor grave Franklin’s Neither Fitzjames. and Crozier by

Lincolnshire, and the town of Spilsby presented him him presented Spilsby of town the and ,

speculation, but it is believed that after two years years two after that believed is it but speculation, was awarded the Paris Geographical Society’s Society’s Geographical Paris the awarded was

John Franklin died on 11th June 1847”, countersigned countersigned 1847”, June 11th on died Franklin John

leaving England he embarked on a tour of of tour a on embarked he England leaving

What happened next is a matter of informed informed of matter a is next happened What 1827 they were welcomed as heroes, Franklin Franklin heroes, as welcomed were they 1827

written on an Admiralty form, was the message “Sir “Sir message the was form, Admiralty an on written AN ARCTIC EXPLORER ARCTIC AN in 1855), which he accepted. Prior to to Prior accepted. he which 1855), in

the expedition’s return to the UK in September September in UK the to return expedition’s the

LoveLincsWolds

King William Island. Island. William King

where a cairn was found at Victory Point. Inside, Inside, Point. Victory at found was cairn a where

Dieman’s Land (renamed as Tasmania Tasmania as (renamed Land Dieman’s I

season, and mapped 1,200 miles of coastline. On On coastline. of miles 1,200 mapped and season,

FRANKLIN

by September 1846 they were stuck fast in ice near near ice in fast stuck were they 1846 September by

@LoveLincsWolds

sailed to Beechey Island and King William Island, Island, William King and Island Beechey to sailed

the Lieutenant‐Governorship of Van Van of Lieutenant‐Governorship the

down the to the sea in one one in sea the to River Mackenzie the down

were sighted by whaling ships in but but Bay Baffin in ships whaling by sighted were

McLintock and Lieutenant William Hobson. They They Hobson. William Lieutenant and McLintock

Love Lincolnshire Wolds Wolds Lincolnshire Love

n April 1836, Franklin was offered offered was Franklin 1836, April n

lightweight boats. Franklin succeeded in navigating navigating in succeeded Franklin boats. lightweight F

SIR JOHN JOHN SIR

from Greenhithe in May 1845. In late July they they July late In 1845. May in Greenhithe from

was the steam yacht “” under Captain Leopold Leopold Captain under “Fox” yacht steam the was DIEMAN’S LAND DIEMAN’S

with supplies shipped in previously, with with previously, in shipped supplies with

board and provisions for three years, they set off off set they years, three for provisions and board

expeditions at her own cost. The most successful successful most The cost. own her at expeditions L

ranklin’s second trip was better planned, planned, better was trip second ranklin’s

lovelincolnshirewolds.com propellers and furnace heating. With 134 men on on men 134 With heating. furnace and propellers GOVERNOR OF VAN VAN OF GOVERNOR with the efforts being made, and launched further further launched and made, being efforts the with ON THE TRAIL OF TRAIL THE ON

“SIR JOHN FRANKLIN” JOHN “SIR

were equipped with new steam engines, screw screw engines, steam new with equipped were

ady , meanwhile, was not satisfied satisfied not was meanwhile, Franklin, Jane ady

ON THE AREA, VISIT - VISIT AREA, THE ON

These ships were reinforced with plating and and plating iron with reinforced were ships These LIEUTENANT‐ ‐1836 1827

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION INFORMATION FURTHER FOR and Captain on HMS Terror. Terror. HMS on Crozier Francis Captain and

HISTORY MATTERS John suffered lifelong deafness. From 1807 to 1815 JOHN FRANKLIN EARLY DAYS Franklin continued to serve in the , as THE CALL OF THE THE MAN WHO ATE SIR JOHN 1786 – 1798 EARLY YEARS Master’s Mate on board HMS Bedford, taking part in IN THE NAVY the , where he was wounded in ARCTIC HIS BOOTS ohn was born on 16th April 1786 in Spilsby. His FRANKLIN he Royal Navy was seen as a the shoulder and mentioned in dispatches. t had long been held that the North West n May 1819 John Franklin undertook an overland father, Willingham, came from Sibsey, and his more respectable prospect and Passage across the top of Canada would be a expedition from to map the North mother,J Hannah, from Algarkirk near Boston. John was OF SPILSBY so,T at the age of 14, John’s father Ishortcut from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Icoast of Canada. The expedition was a disaster. With the 9th of 12 children, although Henry, born the year ON THE TRAIL OF secured him an appointment as a ‘first However, by the early 1800s it was clear that all their supplies used up, the men resorted to eating before John, lived for less than a month. Three sisters class volunteer’ on HMS Polyphemus. this was not a viable trading route, but Arctic , chewing old bones and even the leather from AN ARCTIC EXPLORER were born after John. The daughter of the eldest of exploration was still a British obsession, and nine their boots or belts. 11 of the 20 men in Franklin’s these later married Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Through In 1801 she sailed from the Baltic and took Royal Navy expeditions were organized by Sir John party perished, mostly from starvation, but those that the son of John’s elder brother Willingham, he was also part in the first Battle of Copenhagen, at which Barrow, 2nd Secretary to the Admiralty. survived returned to the UK in 1822 to great acclaim. related to the Revd Canon Rawnsley, co-founder of the Admiral Nelson famously stated “I see no signal”, ir John Franklin is famous for his Franklin, feted as ‘The Man Who Ate His Boots’, National Trust. and at which the Danes were defeated. Later wrote his bestselling book “Narrative of a Journey expeditions to the Arctic, but most that year, John joined Captain S However, John’s birthplace to the Shores of the Polar Sea”, and was in great famous for the mystery surrounding the on a voyage to survey the South West coast of was a humble dwelling, demand as a speaker and at social gatherings. disappearance of himself, his ships and Australia on HMS Investigator. Flinders, born St James, Spilsby which can still be seen today. crew while on his final expedition to in Donington, was John’s cousin‐by‐marriage, as In August 1823 he married Eleanor Porden, daughter His father was a mercer, seek the North West Passage, in 1845. his widowed father had later married Elizabeth of a London architect, and although the family home at Weekes, who was the sister of John’s mother DECLINE IN FAMILY their daughter, Eleanor He was born in Spilsby, so join us on a trail 25 High Street has for many Hannah. Disaster struck the expedition when Isabella, was born in June through the town and learn about his voyages, years been a bakery. John’s Investigator was found to be unseaworthy, and FORTUNES 1824. During this year, his governorship of birth is celebrated with a the crew transferred to HMS Porpoise. This ship lthough John had been appointed 1st Lieutenant Franklin’s father had Tasmania and plaque on the wall of the was then wrecked on a reef and Franklin was of HMS Forth in 1815, the ship’s company was died and he returned to the rescue adjoining alleyway. abandoned on a sandbank before ultimately being disbandedA in September and John found himself “on Lincolnshire to sort out expeditions the beach” on half‐pay. His eldest brother Thomas John was baptised on rescued. The rescue ship sailed to China where the family’s affairs. Sadly, to discover had become involved in a speculative business venture 18th April 1786 in St James Church, Spilsby. He he gained passage on the Earl Camden under his wife died of tuberculosis his ultimate and had lost both his and his father’s money, and had was probably sent away to school in St Ives in Commodore , taking part en in February 1825 fate. committed suicide in 1807. John was able to contribute Huntingdonshire, but from the age of 10 he was route in the Battle of Pulo Auro. John arrived back aged just 29, a small amount to the family coffers, and had bought educated at Louth Grammar School. On a trip to in the UK in 1804 and in September he joined only a week Southfield Farm in Mavis Enderby (5 miles from Saltfleetby on the coast, aged 12, he became enthralled the crew of HMS Bellerophon, and took part in after Franklin Spilsby) for his parents to live in. His mother had died by the sea and announced his intention of making it his the . According to his senior had set off on in 1810. John, however, was determined to return to career. His father opposed this idea and, hoping to put officer, John Franklin “performed his duties as his second Arctic sea, and in 1818 he sailed to the Arctic as second in him off, allowed him to take a trial voyage on a small signal with very conspicuous zeal and expedition. command of HMS Trent. Pack ice forced their return merchant ship trading between Hull and . John ability”. As a result of the bombardments however, 1 2 3 and John had to consider alternatives. 4 © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London loved it. 5 6 Birthplace plaque THE FRANKLIN MEMORIALS TO TRAIL FRANKLIN ollow this trail to find out what Spilsby may HISTORY MATTERS ir John Franklin is commemorated all over the have been like when Sir John Franklin was born world with geographical features, statues and Fhere in 1786, and the town’s current associations Smemorials, as well as streets and schools. In the with him. west Market Place in Spilsby, is the statue unveiled

y in 1861 and paid for by public subscription. A e ON THE TRAIL OF

Start at the Franklin Hall. Built in 1899 as 6 n t

e r

1 1 n R a matching statue can be found in Hobart, Tasmania. P

a Drill Hall and riflea range, it now serves as A

a

L o i

T t

h Inside St James Church in Spilsby you can find the town’s main meeting place and houses the

b Woodlands

y

Town Council Chamber. If the Hall is open, Fisheries a wall tablet erected by his widow, and the flag

k c R go inside to discover an important bust of Sir presented by the High Commissioner of Canada on o e a B d John Franklin, and a tapestry depicting his life, W the bicentenary of Franklin’s

i ll SIR JOHN FRANKLIN created by Spilsby WI. There are also toilets and Woodlands o u birth. D gh h Academy formerly ri b

t ve y information leaflets.r Opposite the Hall is the

o B

o The Lady A significant memorial N entrance to Bull Yard, in Georgian times a very w

d Did you know that timbers

Jane Franklin m 95 a B11 poor part of town, and by 1851 housing 162 e stands at the entrance to the a n from HMS Resolute a o King Edward A le h L School ast n s nc c h or r e s

R H Ma VI School b

o in people in 31 cottages. u n

Royal Naval College Chapel T eventually found their way

R y

h R

o a s

r M d

C La

Village i e

d to America where they form e n Spilsby in Greenwich, London,

l a Walk along Halton Road, passing Alma Place, g i Hall y d e B 2 M Primary d o e part of the President’s desk r w commemorating the whole erected on the site of the Alma Engineering e a s B w n School o

1 t 19 e R in the Oval Off ice?

r 5 r crew of the final expedition,

Works, and turn right down Tasman Road, y

a

B1195 Y

Royal Naval College Chapel College Naval Royal a named after Abel Tasman, the Dutch seafarer and To M P y under which is buried the

avis r b e Ende d u rby h explorer who in 1642 was the first European to n B1 s body of one of the crewmen,

e 1 95 Woodl A v ands Ave

e nue

A reach the island off Australia. He named it Van

n possibly Dr , acting surgeon on k

a

r H d

L u a n Dieman’s Land after the Governor‐General of n d P l E HMS Erebus. e b Po

y o Butter- e R t the Dutch , with its name les e R Wellington n s y t o L na an rd cross a e e d W e St Yard e re La s e t e In the chapel of St John the Evangelist at changing to Tasmania in 1855. Sir John Franklin r W

Theatre t c En t d e Spilsby i C S r t c d e n s r e was Lieutenant‐ from n o Tennis Westminster Abbey a marble monument to a e s e r y a p t k Club n 1836 until 1843, accompanied by his second S S P M 12 c 9 10 e ost O Supermarket Franklin was erected by his wife and unveiled i C ffice r h Hig e u h St u B wife, Jane. Together they made considerable r Lane ch 7 8 Q by Admiral Sir in July 1875. He e Stree u t Market improvements to the cultural and educational n St e s had accompanied Franklin on his two overland v e e

A n n

lives of both free settlers and convicts, although 6 B

Sir John o a t 13 t u

L

11 s l expeditions, and acted as advisor to the search

5 l

S Y a n r Franklin d his actions were not always appreciated. Police o y s b Station Statue p missions. This has the epitaph written by Alfred, s Sim e e r Avenu Old t

E Franklin Hall & Place Market Spilsby As Tasman Road bears to the right, look left e Lord Tennyson: School Mews k 3 r Council Offices to see Erebus Close, named for HMS Erebus, a

M e c Foxglove 1 a e the ship that Franklin commanded on his final d l e l “Not here; the white north has thy bones; n P H Close a u Fitzjames L O d a a The Eresby n lt voyage to find the North‐West Passage. The a o e Close m l and thou, heroic sailor‐soul, art passing v hamfie n School o S ld s A 6 A 2

ship and crew were last heard of in 1847, but R 1

n s

i on thine happier voyage now toward no l n d A r k r R e in September 2014 Erebus was discovered in d e a n y t d o a k s a r n R r o earthly pole.” c Fire a i a r V w o Canadian Arctic waters, 11 metres deep. Some T F B ca a alb d R

l ot G o a

n Station e

C d

l B

A R o

s o

e wt y

a

artefacts, including the ship’s bell, have now been

d s b

e 1 Prior to this, in 1860, Parliament granted £2,000

ls w

i e 1

n T N o n a 3 p

s n d 9

e ma a in recovered from the wreck. Further along Tasman

o t S a l A t J 5

e T for a statue in Waterloo Place, London, unveiled u k Pavilion n s 4 l o Raleigh y n

M c o e W

Road you will pass Resolute Close, named after one o s d a e a s Did you know that among u Court s r

e a v a

B e b i s in 1866. The citation reads: “To The Great R o F i Vale Road l L r n s

Tennis e

C o f l D of the ships in the Admiralty expedition mounted the items taken on the f inal t r W l Courts e Industrial e r A Ma E C o e Arctic Navigator And His Brave Companions in 1852 to search for Franklin’s whereabouts. It is ven ge o t expedition were a monkey ue Estate lla d n l LEGEND d Vale a Who Sacrificed Their Lives In Completing The n probably preferable that the name of this ship was Play a Dr called Jacko, a library and a Court iv d

o e

Area R V Discovery Of The North‐

Playing chosen for the street rather than that of Franklin’s i

Parking press for printing on‐board Vale e

Field w

West Passage AD 1847‐8.” other expedition ship, HMS Terror! newspapers! Cemetery Toilets There is also a memorial in On your right is Franklin Gardens, a modern 4 W the former St Paul’s Church, i Church eco‐development with its eye‐catching jagged n s d t Dock Street in London, o a roofscape, built in 2004. Continue through the n o

R R built as a Seamen’s church One Way Streets barrier and bear right. You will pass Fitzjames o a d in 1846‐7. Closer to home, Close which is named after Captain James Lady Jane Franklin, after whom a modern estate the distribution of buns, loose tea and pints of ale standing and all hatches closed. What happened to Buildings of Interest there is a commemorative Fitzjames, second in command of HMS Erebus. in the town is named. There is also a monument to the townsfolk. Franklin died in Arctic Canada on the crew, and that of HMS Erebus, has long been a

Take the alleyway next to number 11 Shamfields, to Eleanor, his first wife, and two of his brothers: 11th Junen 1847, although his body has never been mystery. window in Lincoln o Park t Memorial in St James Church, Spilsby Memorial in St James Church, Willingham and James. The flag on the wall was found.s Place Statue Waterloo leading uphill, and turn left at the top to explore o Cathedral. In the furthest market square you will find the WM War Memorial more of the town. presented to this church on the bicentenary of B 12 Now go left to the White Hart Hotel, on the front medieval Butter Cross, beside which stood the Franklin’s birth by the High Commissioner of 9 © Copyright East Lindsey District Council The house to the left of the of which you will find one of the earliest post boxes town stocks. The little beyond it is 5 Canada. Produced by PCGraphics (UK) Ltd 2005 Red Lion public house was Did you know that Erebus in the country. In Franklin’s time, mail coaches would made of mud and built around 1700 as one of in Greek mythology was the Leave the church and cross over to the have stopped here 3 or more times a week, putting stud, although it 7 Did you know that Sir John the first brick‐built houses in entrance to Hades, or the old Grammar School, founded in 1550 by Spilsby in touch with the outside world, and probably would originally Franklin was effectively the town. ‘Little Italy’ hides a place of the dead? King Edward VI. FranklinEresby himself went to taking the young Franklin to London to join the have been thatched only third choice to lead the mud and stud construction, the Grammar School at Louth,House but the former Royal Navy, where he served with Admiral Nelson at with reed. Queen 0 500 6 secondary modern school in Spilsby, which 1 the Battles of Copenhagen and Trafalgar. Street was originally f inal expedition? It was typical of the poorer houses A in the eighteenth century, and further along opened in 1953, bore his name. Go left to admire called Leather Lane, said that “If you don’t let Further along High Street is Franklin Passage, once him go, the man will die of Approximate distance (metres)Market Street there are impressive houses on The the impressive Spilsby Theatre, designed by H J To Boston 10 indicative of the local known as Jenning’s Smoot. This passageway runs Terrace. At The George public house, carefully Kendall in the Greek style. It opened in 1826, and trade. Spilsby at the disappointment”. alongside the house (now a bakery) once owned by cross Boston Road to reach St James Church. originally housed the Court House for the Lindsey time of Franklin’s birth John’s father, Willingham Franklin, in which John Quarter Sessions, with a prison behind, since had a population of around 900, but was a market Enter the church, the original part of which Franklin was born on 16th April 1786. As one of at 6 demolished. town of some importance with a weekly market and least 11 children it must have been quite a squash! was built in the 14th century, with the tower twice yearly fairs. added in 1529. This is how it would have looked Go back past the school and cross Ashby Road 8 Cross to the far side of the central market place, when Franklin was baptised here in 1786. It was to arrive at the west end of the market place. The 11 Cross to admire the Methodist Church, built in turn right and read the information board detailing 13 restored and enlarged in 1879 with the addition arched building ahead served in Franklin’s time as 1878, on the site of the White Horse Inn where the life and exploits of Sir John Franklin and his of the south aisle and the west end. On the wall a Corn Exchange. The statue of Sir John Franklin, carriers’ wagons would stop for refreshment. Arctic expeditions. HMS Terror was finally located at the west end there is a monumental tablet to was erected in 1861, with £750 being raised by Carefully cross Halton Road at the crossing to arrive in September 2016, co‐incidentally in , Sir John Franklin, erected by his second wife, public subscription. The unveiling was marked by back at the Franklin Hall. There are plenty of outlets standing in 48 metres of Arctic water, with 3 masts

in town for your own refreshment! Westminster Abbey of Memorial © Dean and Chapter Westminster Tasmania Hobart Statue, ©Shutterstock.com