and November 2019

This was Bustards Birding Tours inaugural trip to Kenya and Northern Tanzania. We had 3 weeks planned on our itinerary, taking in several different for range specific , endemic , as well as viewing a variety of mammals. Photography was also high on the clients agenda, it was destined to be a fun trip.

Day 1: 3rd November 2019 – Nairobi to Lake Nakuru

After meeting up on the 2nd and having a good chat, including post rugby world cup final discussions, we met up with our local agent to discuss the trip ahead. We departed at 7 AM as planned, with our first stop an hour out of Nairobi, at Manguo Swamp. As we eagerly clambered out of the vehicle we were ticking Brown-throated Martin, Intermediate Egret, Pin-tailed Whydah along with several other common species. Our first regional special was Hunter’s showing very well, alongside Kenya Sparrow. Highland Rush Warblers chirped from the reedbeds but refused to show themselves. What was planned as a short one hour stop stretched into 2, as we added other great birds like Hottentot Teal, Variable and Bronzy Sunbird, Lanner Falcon, Augur Buzzard, Baglafecht and Holub’s African Weaver. After getting to 42 species it was time to carry on towards Lake Nakuru, with a quick stop at the Rift Valley Viewpoint, where you look over a 1km drop into the valley, with Mt. Suswa, Mt. Margaret and Mt. Longonot in the distance. Of course, we had to check out the birds on offer too. Eastern Double-collared Sunbird (a new one for me), Abyssinian Thrush, Yellow-bellied and Crimson- rumped Waxbill and Cinnamon-breasted Bee-eater were added to the list. Lake Nakuru beckoned!

After a quick packed lunch near the gate, we birded the gate area while our access fees were paid. Black-lored Babbler, Grey- headed Woodpecker, Speke’s Weaver, Eurasian Hobby and Scarlet-chested Sunbird were seen and of course photographed. We drove into the National Park, but barely 20 meters were covered before we needed to stop and add a few more to the list, including point blank photo opportunities of the abundant Superb Starling. So it continued for the rest of the afternoon, with super birding which included Ruppell’s Vulture, Martial Eagle, mind blowing views of the potentially new species, the pale bellied hubbardi race of Coqui Francolin gave incredible views, too close for some of the lenses on board! Other great species included Grey-headed Kingfisher, Red-fronted Barbet, Grey Crowned Crane, African Thrush, Nyanza Swift, White-bellied Tit, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Grey-backed Fiscal. In the midst of the impressive list we were getting, Don said he’d be really impressed if we beat his best ever day of birding, which was 111 species at Bribie Island off Queensland, Australia. Well, we trashed that, with 128 species seen, a further 7 heard only, and a large chunk of the 128 photographed to boot by one or more of the group. One of the last birds for the day were a graceful pair of Grey Crowned Crane before we arrived at our comfortable lodge for the evening.

Day 2: Lake Nakuru NP to Kakamega

This was a fairly leisurely start as far as birding excursions go, we woke up, had breakfast and packed ready to go, with some relaxed birding around the lodge. We then set off on our drive around the south of the lake, stopping at a popular flamingo viewpoint for other safari drives – our task was more to see what waders, ducks, terns and so on were on show, and of course to add to our list. Some goodies were a single young Lesser Black-backed Gull, Greater Sand Plover, plenty of Northern Shoveler, and a favourite with the guests, the comical feeding behaviour of Cape Teal. Driving away from the lake we soon picked up a White- headed Barbet of the race albicauda. Birding was great, so after taking a while to traverse the lake and stopping at a magnificent view point for lunch, we were hard pressed to make sure we exited the park within the required 24 hours! We set off to Kakamega Forest, which held many lifers in store for the clients on our third day. A vocal “Pale-bellied” Francolin stood on a ridge next to the car screaming its lungs out.

Day 3: Birding Kakamega

Kakamega Forest, what a beautiful place it is. Washington, with much justification compares it to Budongo’s Royal Mile in . My first comment was that I was very much out of my comfort zone, as after greenbul call rang out, most of which I hadn’t heard for some time. I started to settle in and the two of us together with the local guide were pulling out several species as we tracked them down by sight and call. Kakamega holds several species that occur on the Kenyan list by virtue of the fact that in the country they occur only in this large tract of protected forest. One of the specials high on the clients “needs” list was the stunning Great Blue Turaco. A forest walk produced 5 of these massive birds, which posed very well for a prolonged photo shoot. On our hunt for the turaco, we happened to bump into some other striking forest species such as Blue-headed Bee-eater, Jameson’s Wattle-eye, Equatorial Akalat and Red-headed Malimbe. The photoshoot was rudely disturbed by the appearance of a striking adult Red-headed Bluebill, which sat in clear view for some photos. Other specials included the noisy and very pretty little Black-collared Apalis, competing with White-chinned Prinia for noisiest in the thicket. The greenbul fest included Joyful, Plain, Kakamega, Yellow- whiskered, Little, Little Grey, Toro Olive, Cabanis’s & Slender-billed. Other special birds we added to our list included Dusky Tit, Grey-throated and Yellow-billed Barbet, Least Honeyguide, Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Chubb’s Cisticola, Green-headed and Green-throated Sunbird, Black-and-white- casqued Hornbill, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Turner’s Eremomela, Mackinnon’s Shrike, Black- billed, Vieillot’s Black and Brown-capped Weaver and Black-faced Rufous Warbler.

We concluded the day with a walk into a small grassland surrounded by forest. Our target was the very different macrocerus race of Yellow-mantled Widowbird – we found this plus a couple of surprises in the form of Fan-tailed Grassbird and a flyover of an immature Bat Hawk.

Day 4: Kakamega transferring to Baringo

We started off with a forest walk before breakfast which produced Snowy-crowned and Blue- shouldered Robin-Chat, as well as astounding views of a Brown-chested Alethe that kept coming back to perch on a chair in the forest! We added Yellow-throated Leaflove too before another delicious meal. Great Blue and Ross’s Turaco treated us with views in the garden, as did numerous Bronzy Sunbird feasting on nectar outside the restaurant. Our last binge on forest birding before we had to head on to Baringo added Black-throated and Buff-throated Apalis, African Emerald Cuckoo, Chapin’s Flycatcher, African Shrike-Flycatcher, Grey Wagtail, Hairy-breasted and Double-toothed Barbet, Scarce Swift, Lühder’s and Bocage’s , Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters gave the group a decent farewell to the forest as they posed for photos on a low down perch.

We had a short stop at King’wal Swamp to successfully look for Fan-tailed Widowbird, adding Northern Wheatear, Greater Swamp Warbler and Wire-tailed Swallow in the process.

With a fairly long drive ahead we continued with a short stop at one of the view points, arriving at our comfortable lodge shortly after sunset.

Day 5: Lake Baringo and surrounds

We had a boat trip this morning, leaving at first light, in order to maximise photography opportunities. We weren’t disappointed, after ticking off a few species before getting onto the boat, Mourning Collared Dove being a new one, we were off. was our first new bird, followed closely by Striated Heron and good views of a Giant Kingfisher sitting on a lamp post. As we slowly moved along the shoreline we added some really good trip birds such as Malachite Kingfisher, Beautiful Sunbird, Black Crake, Black Heron, Sand Martin, Western Yellow Wagtail, Village, Lesser Masked and Golden-backed Weaver all in the same bush, Blue-naped Mousebird, Bristle-crowned Starling, African Grey and Nubian Woodpecker, Blue-cheeked and Northern Carmine Bee-eater. We also saw several African Fish Eagles fishing, which delighted the photographers.

The boat trip was so good that breakfast was a “touch” later than planned. After satisfying our hunger, we met our local guide Benson, who had scouted the area and had some goodies up his sleeve. We moved around the area, dry scrub with large amounts of introduced flora, mainly South American cactus and thorn trees, which threatened to tear clothes, skin or both. With such a change in meant several new birds were to be found. We did exactly that, and new birds included Grey Wren Warbler, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, affinis race of Red- fronted Tinkerbird, which not only looks a little different to our southern race, but inhabits very different habitat too. Some kids on school holidays were racing around the bush playing, unfortunately this had disturbed the nightjars Benson had found earlier – however while searching, we flushed a few Three-banded Courser which then posed for some photos, complete with a goat for company! Parrot-billed Sparrow, Rufous Chatterer and Black-throated Barbet were added in quick succession, before it was time for Benson’s next surprise, this time a Greyish Eagle Owl at its day roost (with a supporting cast of Jackson’s Hornbill in a nearby tree). We then moved on to a few more sites, where he produced 2 more owls, Northern White-faced and African Scops. Pygmy Falcon and White-headed Buffalo-Weaver were nice by products inbetween sites too.

The afternoon session was quieter as is to be expected in a hotter area, but still gave us some goodies, in the form of Magpie Starling, D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Fan-tailed Raven, and then yet another owl, this time Spotted Eagle Owl.

Day 6: Lake Baringo to Naivasha

Benson joined us again for a short morning session before it was time to leave this great birding area. We started by heading back to the area where the nightjars had been disturbed, and within minutes eagle-eyed Benson had picked out 3 of them roosting under a bush, incredibly camouflaged. The session also added Red-and-yellow Barbet, , a quick search of a cliff face gave us Verreaux’s Eagle. Nearby were a pair of Brown-tailed Rock Chat, and while taking another look at Bristle-crowned Starling we also added Hemprich’s Hornbill which was foraging in the same trees.

On to Lake Naivasha it was. We bade Benson farewell and moved on, arriving at the large rift valley lake in time for a boat ride. Being higher than the other lakes, with colder and fresher water, it holds a slightly different mix of species, and also has more habitat suitable for waders. Our welcoming committee was a group of Yellow-billed Stork, almost 50 of them. The first group of Grey-headed Gull had a couple of Black-headed Gull in amongst them, but as is typical of migrating birds, they were in non breeding plumage. We headed across the lake quickly as we were going straight into the sun – a brief pause got us fantastic views and photos of a male Giant Kingfisher, before we arrived at our turning point. Besides a number of mammals on the island, we had hundreds of birds to look at, 200 or so Gull-billed Tern, about 50 Grey-headed Gull, and WOW!, a breeding plumage Black-headed Gull. Next to these were around 40 Black-tailed Godwit, plus a supporting cast of Common Ringed Plover, Little Stint, Marsh, Wood, Common and Curlew Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, and several Grey Heron. Fishermen ending their daily activities kept flushing the flock, allowing for great in flight shots. The Maasai race of Giraffe, Defassa Waterbuck and Blue Wildebeest also got snapped away at. A female Giant Kingfisher decided to put on a show as well in the now perfect late afternoon light.

We retired for the day to our comfortable and somewhat homely lodge, which used to be the home of Joy Adamson (of Born Free fame). A sumptuous meal later and we were ready to rest and get ready for some high altitude birding, as we were heading towards Mt. Kenya the next day.

Day 7: Naivasha –Kinangop to Mt. Kenya

Waking up in the morning to White-browed Robin-Chat, Grey-capped Warbler and Guereza Colobus was great. We birded a bit before breakfast, adding the warbler to our list. Just before boarding the vehicle we got onto a small group of Arrow-marked Babbler, lighter eyed and different sounding to our southern ones.

Now it was off to Kinangop plateau, where we would look for the endemic Sharpe’s Longclaw. We stopped at a small series of dams which had African Citril foraging nearby, as well as several African and very different looking and sounding Rufous-naped Lark to the ones we are used to in South Africa. A different dam nearby produced a pair of Lesser Jacana, before we visited a local man’s new establishment, birder friendly and reusing plastics as far as possible in the construction of the buildings. His gardens were great, producing Montane Nightjar, Dusky Turtle Dove and Kikuyu White- eye.

With our local guide we got to a grassy slope, where 3 of the critically endangered Sharpe’s Longclaw were seen. The site also produced more Angolan Swallow, Golden-winged Sunbird, Levaillant’s Cisticola and Long-tailed Widowbird.

We said farewell to John and started climbing up towards the top of the Aberdares. At the gate of the park a quick bout of birding produced Moorland Chat, Malachite Sunbird and finally a stunning Tacazze Sunbird that showed off his colours beautifully in the afternoon sun. We still had some work ahead of us as we tried to coax out an Aberdare Cisticola, finally succeeding as our last addition in the park. Jackson’s Francolin took its time but eventually showed and then were everywhere! Good mammals in the park included Common Duiker, Bushbuck and Mt. Kenya Kolb’s Monkey.

Our last stop near Nyeri was to hunt down Hinde’s Babbler, an endangered and range restricted endemic. After a short walk we heard them calling a short way off, and got good views as they scampered through the scrub. Our last effort was for Cape Eagle-Owl, which had unfortunately been scared from its normal roost by a troop of monkeys. A local clambered down the slope to check the other cliff face, in the process flushing the owl – a few of the group were rewarded with flight views.

After a long day we set off on our drive to Mt. Kenya were we would overnight, some great species seen, and good photos taken of several of the special species.

Day 8: Castle Forest, Mt Kenya

Early risers had a chance of Olive Ibis flying over before sunrise. 3 of us were out looking for them, but only a distant squawk let us know they were around, but not flying over our lodge today. The forest started waking up, with turacos, apalises, and weavers started to add to the dawn chorus.

The birding began as it got lighter and over a cup of coffee we got good views of our first Hartlaub’s Turaco. Baglafecht and , Bronzy, Northern Double-collared and Tacazze Sunbird started moving about too. We headed down the track and the day list started growing, with Slender- billed Greenbul, Kikuyu White-eye and Black-throated Apalis being repeats. Trip birds started to show themselves, such as Grey and Chestnut-throated Apalis, Black-fronted Bushshrike, Thick-billed Seedeater, African Hill Babbler, Mountain Wagtail, Eurasian Blackcap, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill and Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon. Back at the lodge during breakfast on the balcony we added Mountain Oriole and Red-backed Mannikin, as well as Kandt’s Waxbill shortly afterwards. Our last stint in the forest before heading south produced a cracking Abbott’s Starling, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, White- starred Robin, Kenrick’s Starling and Common Chiffchaff. As the group headed off to lunch I was dawdling down the path when a woodpecker flew over me and landed in a tree ahead… Tullberg’s Woodpecker! I yelled for the group but no-one heard me, and shortly after the woodpecker flitted off down the hill.

Jackson’s Chameleon watched us have breakfast!

Now we head off to Nairobi before we started the eastern leg of the trip.

Day 9: Tsavo West

We were now starting the next leg of the tour as we headed east from Nairobi. A longish drive to Tsavo where we had lunch at a lodge overlooking a waterhole. As we arrived, so too did a large herd of elephant, much to everyone’s delight.

The arid country birds started to show themselves too. Eastern Chanting Goshawk was common on the roadside poles, Little Bee-eaters started showing off as well. Other additions included Upcher’s Warbler, Common Whitethroat, White-headed Mousebird, Red-fronted Warbler, Scaly Chatterer, Red-bellied Parrot, Dodson’s , Bare-eyed Thrush, Pink-breasted Lark, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, the gaudy Golden-breasted Starling, Northern Crombec, Somali Bunting and Three-streaked Tchagra.

Day 10: Tsavo and Taita Hills

This day was mostly dedicated to finding the Taita Hills endemics, being Taita Thrush, Taita Apalis and Taita White-eye. I knew other people had struggled with one or more of the species so I was a little nervous!

Our first stop at the lower section of the hills was surprisingly quiet, so we scrapped that and continued upwards. Our local guide directed us to a spot he thought we had a good chance of finding all three – well, good choice, the group were still getting out of the vehicle when the first group of White-eyes moved into view. We then moved into the forest proper and within ten meters the guide whispered “Taita Thrush”. It sat for decent views but hard to photograph. Arriving at his next hotspot we had a few more thrushes, one of which posed brilliantly. The apalis was a no show here, and my nerves were now on edge. He took us on to another site, where he said it was “much easier”. Well, a short walk later we’d heard it and had fleeting views. Two of us and the guide decided to head further up the track…. Nothing. We headed back to the others and as we arrived there, a tiny bird flitted into the tangle ahead of us. Little chocolate brown throat now clearly visible, some terrible photos taken, and the others also got onto it from the other side of the clearing. Trifecta!

We had also scored Striped Pipit on the way up, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler put on a show munching a caterpillar, a Hartlaub’s Turaco sat out for a photo shoot, a pair of African Hawk-Eagle and their youngster circled above us, a Little Sparrowhawk gave us an angry look from the power lines, and on the way down we also added and Lizard Buzzard.

On arrival back at the camp, I briefly saw a male Hunter’s Sunbird, one of the trainee staff keen on her birds asked me what I was looking for, and a few minutes later said she’d seen the bird with a red chest and curved beak, and found it again for those of us who hadn’t retired to their sundowners. Another staff member was tracking down roosting owls and showed us a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls. A great end to a great day!

Day 11: Tsavo East on to the coast

Most birding trips do the traditional birding and game viewing, taking in the likes of Serengeti, Amboseli and possibly Buffalo Springs. I’d twisted the itinerary to exclude the tourist congested hotspots, knowing we had a good chance of decent game in Nakuru, Tsavo and Tarangire. I also decided that we needed to head east, as far east as you can go, to the coastal forest of Arabuko Sokoke. To get there, we had a long and birdy drive through Tsavo. It was terrible…. Not!

While payment procedures were taking place at the gate we birded a little, getting repeats such as D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Black-necked Weaver, noisy White-bellied Go-Away birds and so on.

We then proceeded into the park, with news of lion being sighted a short distance from the gate. After a Yellow-necked Spurfowl distraction we saw the lion, females and youngsters plodding around driving fear into a group of Common Waterbuck grazing nearby. Lion are nice to see, but we’d done that, so the birding resumed. Shortly we had Grant’s Wood Hoopoes foraging, a Southern Ground Hornbill flying up into a tree, White-winged Widowbird with rusty shoulder patches, unlike our southern yellow-shouldered race, Red-winged Lark, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Taita Fiscal, Ashy Cisticola, Rosy- patched Bushshrike, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Lappet-faced Vulture, as well as a lot of species already on our growing list.

This was a Bustards trip, and they had been very scarce, with one Black-bellied to show for our 10 days so far. Malcolm suddenly squawked, STOP, REVERSE! He’d spotted a Buff-crested Bustard, sister species to our Red-crested Korhaan. Near one of the more fancy lodges Don spotted out first of 7 Kori Bustard, nice! A lone Secretarybird strode out on the grassland too. We then needed to start to make speed towards the coast, as it goes with birders, we’d chewed up our time too quickly. Our drive out however was punctuated with terrible distractions, three species of Sparrow-Lark, several Pink- breasted Larks, plus a good one, Singing Bush Lark, displaying high overhead. A huge brilliant yellow butterfly shot across the road: GOLDEN PIPIT was the cry! It was the first of several, and obviously deserved some time for photographs. It flew across the road, Brenda said OWL! The pipit had flown into the treetop where a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl was lounging. A short distance ahead I stopped us again for a raptor above, which turned out to be a sub adult Egyptian Vulture, another good record.

There was a large storm ahead of us, so our driver started to put his foot down, not to mention how much time we’d lost photographing these great birds. A few kilometers from the gate we came across a van that had slid sideways and was pretty stuck. A panicky looking young couple sitting in the back looked like they were resigned to spending the night there. However our gallant driver and guide helped out, hooked a rope up to them and we dragged them slithering and sliding to a drier section of road. Onward we went, arriving a touch late at our lodge, but what a great day, 158 species seen.

Day 12: Arabuko Sokoke, etc.

We’d been told to expect the first lifer from our bedroom window. That wasn’t too far from the truth as we met for early coffee, Golden Palm Weavers were noisily going about their business on two ponds in the grounds.

The first stop was the pretty impressive Arabuko Sokoke forest reserve, where the first addition was African Wood Owl. Further into the forest we scored a pair of Amani Sunbird and Black-headed Apalis. Calls were erupting around us, but typical of thick forest it was tough to get on to them. Perseverance paid off and we added Narina Trogon and a vocal Little Yellow Flycatcher. Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike, Yellow-bellied Greenbul and Dark- backed Weaver were seen too, before we headed off to look for the very localised Sokoke Scops Owl. Our local expert picked it out at a day roost, where several megabytes of memory cards were quickly filled up. East Coast Akalat taunted us, and refused to show.

We planned to visit a wetland for some target species, however 3 days of unseasonal heavy rain had flooded the road, which thwarted those efforts. We ended off at Mida Creek, not planned as the high tide meant far fewer waders. Surprisingly we had not yet seen Three-banded Plover, so this and Purple-banded Sunbird were welcome additions.

Day 13: Arabuko Sokoke and nearby sites

We arranged an early breakfast in order to be in the forest while it was cooler. Our first target was a mammal rather than a bird, being Golden-rumped Sengi. They are the largest of the family, and really are pretty chunky. Typical of sengis, this one gives very fleeting views, however by the end of the walk everyone had seen one or more well.

We carried on through the forest, one of the main targets being Sokoke Pipit. I’d dropped back when the call came… the pipit is here! A quick jog to the group, and panic set in, had I missed it? Our local guide however was in the forest looking for it and soon called us to join him. He had two of these small , which were foraging on the forest floor and moving quite quickly. We all got decent views, but photographs of them were close to impossible as they ran from one patch of cover to the next.

We then decided to move to the Brachystygia woodland to look for further targets. The temperature at 8:30 was already soaring, the humidity must have been 101%! There were several flocks of Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike moving through, which invariably indicates feeding flocks are in the area. We soon had Black-backed Puffback, Fork-tailed Drongo, Black-headed Apalis, Yellow-bellied Greenbul and a new one, Common Scimitarbill. We heard a woodpecker tapping and went to track it down -Mombasa Woodpecker, three of them! We also added Pale Batis, but Eastern Nicator, East Coast Boubou and Bearded Scrub Robin called but remained elusive. We decided to move to a different habitat. This paid off, with the shy Scaly Babbler giving brief but satisfactory views. Then it was on to pipit habit. The first one we picked out was unfortunately “just” an African Pipit. Another darker looking one played hide and seek but eventually popped onto a muddy ridge in the field. MALINDI PIPIT!

The previous evening we’d had a group vote: lunch and rest during the heat, sacrificing one of our two afternoon birding sites, or an hour break for lunch and do both. The latter had won the vote, so we set off for a quick break before heading to Mida Creek, followed by Sabaki River estuary.

At Mida a quick and heavy rainstorm followed us in, but was over in a fairly short time, so off we went to scan the waders. We were soon looking at large numbers of Crab Plover, joined by Whimbrel, Grey Plover, Lesser and Greater Sand Plover, Terek & Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint, Sanderling, a single Ruff and a few Common Ringed Plover. Gull-billed Terns were patrolling the mud flats, and Little Egrets snapping up tasty morsels. After getting our fill, we headed off to Sabaki.

After being close to getting stuck in a newly eroded section of road, we got to the coastal pans. The birding started well, with the red billed race of Village Indigobird being the first new one for the day, then Zanzibar Red Bishop sat up on some reeds, as did Coastal Cisticola. A sunbird flitted into the shrubs and was quickly identified as Violet-breasted Sunbird from its call. Once we saw it in decent light we could see the single, more vivid purple band and lack of any maroon band. A group of Pale White-eyes flew in, then it was time to head for the beach. Common Ringed Plover, Greater Sand Plover with a few Lessers mixed in, Sanderling, White-fronted Plover and a single Crab Plover were seen as we arrived. A look at the estuary showed a group of Lesser Flamingoes with plenty gulls and terns around too. We headed off there, with a single Eurasian Curlew flying over, which unfortunately only I got a look at. A closer look at the flock showed the majority to be Sooty Gull, several heuglini Lesser Black- backed Gull, a single fuscus in amongst them, a few Greater Crested, Lesser Crested and Common Tern bulked up the roost. Some Caspian and several Gull-billed Tern were seen in flight at the river mouth.

While photographs were being taken of the various species, a lot of shouting and gesticulating started taking place attract everyone’s attention as the large roost erupted into the air – a Peregrine Falcon had swooped in and grabbed a Common Tern. Its target proved too much for it to carry, soon it dropped back to the sand, receiving a hearty peck from the tern and releasing its catch. What a sight!

After a long but productive day we headed back to the hotel, with many gigabytes of photos to look at!

Day 14: Shimba Hills

Today we had a relatively short (distance wise) drive to Shimba Hills. However, we had to get through Mombasa. Traffic can be a disaster on a good day, rain helped the traffic get a little worse. Fortunately it was a Saturday, otherwise it could have been chaos. Added to this was the ferry crossing at Linkini, as with most large ferry crossings, you have impatient queue hoppers to contend with, and a relatively large volume of people and vehicles crossing. One of the ferries was also out of order, making it slower. We eventually got our turn to board the ferry and the drive continued, fairly rapidly from there on. We birded Shimba Hills National Park for the afternoon. We added some new birds including Red- tailed Ant-thrush, Short-winged and Croaking Cisticola, Pale Flycatcher and Flappet Lark. East Coast Boubou continued to skulk, and Fischer’s Turaco called but it too was a no show.

So ends our Kenya leg of the trip. We saw 545 species and heard an extra 23. Tomorrow we enter Tanzania at Lunga Lunga/Horohoro, and on to the Usambaras.

Day 15: Amani Forest, East Usambara

Our day started with a fairly easy border crossing, and then the drive up some interesting dirt roads. We arrived at the camp in the afternoon, and settled in before setting off on an afternoon walk.

The first new bird was Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird, a pair of them above our vehicle. We saw a few Long-crested Eagle as we drove downhill. Green Barbet chop chop chopped away all along the road, with plenty of Silvery-cheeked Hornbill flying around too. Purple-banded, Collared and Olive Sunbird were plentiful. A White-eared Barbet showed well. A tiny sunbird was spotted high in a tree – it turned out to be Banded Green Sunbird, an endemic to the East Arc mountains in Tanzania. Cabanis’s Bunting called but refused to show.

We ended the day watching Silvery-cheeked Hornbill noisily settling into their roosts, as well as plenty of Zanzibar Syke’s Monkey bounding around the tree tops.

Day 16: Amani Forest

Today we planned a few sites to walk in the morning, as well as an afternoon walk, with some rest time before our fairly lengthy transfer to West Usambaras the next day.

Our first target was a very localised and much sought after species now known as Long-billed Forest Warbler. This bird has an identity crisis forced upon it by the humans! It has been know as Moreau’s Tailorbird, Long-billed Apalis and Tailorbird, and now considered unrelated to Asian Tailorbirds given the title of Long-billed Forest Warbler. The Moreaus lived in the forest from the 1920’s, we had walked past their house the previous afternoon. He was an ornithologist, his wife learnt from him over the years. He named the warbler after her, as well as a species of sunbird found in the Uluguru and Udzungwa mountains.

On our way to a possible site for the warbler, we heard Moustached Tinkerbird – a short playback brought it rocketing in to a nearby tree for all to see. Southern Citril and Common Waxbills were foraging in the tea plantations, with the occasional African Stonechat mixed in, hawking nearby. Above flew Red-rumped and Lesser-striped Swallow. An Augur Buzzard was also hunting over the plantation.

Down a forest track the guides picked up the call of our target. It was taped and played back, and it instantly responded, zipping through the tangles at high speed. Occasionally it paused for a split second, once stopping for a touch longer, camera shutters went into overdrive! Not only had we seen one of Africa’s rarest warblers, but Niall was pretty chuffed too, as this was the 4000th species on his lifelist.

We proceeded to the next trail, where Shelley’s Greenbul joined a feeding flock which included Dark- backed Weaver, Black-headed Apalis, African Paradise Flycatcher, Northern Yellow White-eye, White- tailed Crested Flycatcher, as Crowned Eagle displayed overhead. While we were enjoying coffee and tea at the vehicle, Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird, Collared Sunbird, Spectacled Weaver and Red- backed Mannikin were seen on the edge of the clearing.

After a lunch break and short rest we went down the hill again, ostensibly to walk another forest trail. The weather gods had other plans, the heavens opened and we retreated under cover to wait for the rain to pass. After the storm we chose to repeat a similar trail to yesterday, as the forest was now pretty dark with the conditions still overcast. As we set off down the trail a European Nightjar flushed off the track. It settled along a tree trunk, but flushed very quickly when we tried to get a better look. A group of Waller’s Starlings noisily moved through the canopy. The unique usambarae race of Fork- tailed Drongo was common along the track, as were Olive and Purple-banded Sunbird. A woodpecker was spotted and turned out to be Green-backed, a first confirmed sighting of the trip. We tried in vain to hear any giveaway calls of Fischer’s Turaco, but it was not to be. The birds were quieter than normal in the gloomy conditions. We called it a day and returned to the camp as darkness descended.

Day 17: Onwards to West Usambara

Up early and a departure for West Usambara. As I emerged from my room, a loud distinct call of Fischer’s Turaco erupted from up the hill. I raced up, but it decided to go silent. After several minutes it gave another single call. I tried to track it down, but it was silently moving through the canopy, out of sight. This carried on several times, unfortunately try as we did it remained elusive. This one would have to wait until next time.

Driving slowly down the hill we heard no further turaco calls, birds seen were repeats of previous days, with Common Square-tailed Drongo, seen the previous day, now being fairly common in the canopy.

We arrived at Mugamba Forest, and after procedures were completed at the gate we carried on up the mountain. Pretty soon we had our first special, being Usambara Double-collared Sunbird. In the nearby tall trees two Barred Long-tailed Cuckoos were calling incessantly. We got fleeting glimpes of them as they changed position, but they always landed in the thickest part of the canopy making a better view impossible. As we neared the top, rain started to come down pretty heavily. We waited it out, fortunately it did clear and leave us enough daylight to get onto a few more species. Mountain Greenbul, Stripe-faced Greenbul, Bar-throated Apalis, Grey Cuckooshrike, Red-capped Forest Warbler and Fulleborn’s Boubou were added. Some other noteable species were Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, vocal Evergreen Forest Warbler, Black Saw-wing, White-starred Robin, Northern Yellow White-eye, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher and Grey Wagtail.

We stayed just outside Lushoto, with a long drive ahead of us the next day as we moved across to Arusha.

Day 18: Usambara to Arusha

As we only had a short period of birding available before departing to Arusha, the guests opted to stay in the lodge grounds and photograph the more showy birds such as sunbirds, mousebirds, weavers and whydahs. The session was over in a flash. We packed up and started the long haul to Arusha – the numerous villages on the way meant we were constantly slowing down to obey the speed limits. The guests enjoyed some relaxation time before we gathered to do the checklist that evening. The next day we were of to Tarangire National Park. My closing words that evening were: I’m pretty sure you’ll enjoy tomorrow!

Day 19: Tarangire National Park

After an early breakfast we set off to the park, some 2 and a half hours from our hotel. A quick check through the gate, and we were in. Not before having spotted and photographed Ashy Starling, Yellow- collared Lovebird and Rufous-tailed Weaver!

It was Nakuru all over again, drive 50 meters, reverse 5, take loads of photos, spot something else, photograph that too, and repeat the process. The birds came thick and fast, mammal sightings too. We heard about a lion sighting over the radio and went to have a quick look. They were not that close, and the safari vehicles were gathering and jostling for position. Washington had worked out a better option – take the quieter roads, get to the picnic site earlier than the crowds, and enjoy our day away from the crowds rushing around after mammal sightings. We spent the day having a great time photographing our various subjects, in particular trying to get a Lilac-breasted Roller as it took flight.

Some good birds included Mottled Spinetail, Great Spotted Cuckoo, large numbers of migrating Steppe Eagle feeding on emerging alates, Hooded Vulture, Swahili Sparrow, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, huge flocks of Common Swifts, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Red-necked and Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Southern Ground Hornbill, Magpie Shrike, displaying Foxy Lark, Saddle-billed Stork, Speckle-fronted Weaver and Bare-faced Go-away-bird.

Our aim had been to get to the lodge before dark so that the guests could enjoy the grounds in daylight. We had such a good day however, none of them minded when we got there as dusk fell! On the way from the gate to the lodge, we had to add a few species of course, such as Temminck’s Courser, Grey-capped Social Weaver and .

It was Malcolm’s 60th birthday, I’d got Washington to conspire with the lodge to do something special for him. It almost went bad as he went for a loo break as the staff came out singing, but fortunately he was walking back in as they came out. A hearty happy birthday sung in Swahili and beautiful cake presented to Malcolm topped off his special day.

Day 20: Tarangire National Park

We spent the morning in the park again, taking a different route which would include the swamp. This added a few new trip birds such as Long-toed Lapwing and Rufous-bellied Heron. We’d taken a while to get to the swamp, as once again birds and mammals slowed our drive.

White-bellied Bustards were one of the first, with a Buff-crested Bustard crossing the road ahead of us as we photographed them. A Straw-tailed Whydah plopped down next to the vehicle, Coqui Francolin showed herself well, as did a pair of Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark. There was an even larger number of Steppe Eagle than the day before, lounging around in groups on every tree near a large clearing. Senegal Lapwings showed well in the clearing as well. Silverbird also showed itself today, having only been seen by Washington the previous day.

As the tour was winding down we again got back to the lodge earlier than normal, so people could swim and relax. Yellow-throated Sandgrouse were the last new bird of the day before we headed back to Arusha.

Day 21: Arusha to Nairobi via the lark plains

We’d ended the previous day on 597 species seen. Today we wanted to make sure that we got to the airport in good time for our evening flights, with the border crossing we limited our time to one hour looking for the larks (which inevitably stretched to almost 2!). We had good luck with them, getting Foxy Lark, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Short-tailed Lark and Red-capped Lark before meeting our Maasai custodians of Beesley’s Lark. With an estimate of less than 70 individuals remaining, and all of those in these plains, it is a highly endangered species. The Maasais had of course been tracking their movements and had a group of 3 to show us. The seemed unphased by our presence and hopped pretty close to us as they foraged. We also had Athi Short-toed Lark land nearby. Out of a likely 5 lark species, we’d seen 6. Not bad going!

We then had an uneventful trip to the airport, arriving at 4, so a time for a wind down over coffee/tea/beer and to finish off the checklist.

The guests had a wonderful time, saw parts of Kenya and Tanzania the “normal” tourists don’t get to, and got some great images to keep them busy editing for some time.

We had seen 604 species, with an extra 25 heard only, as well as 54 mammal species – more mammals than a mammal focussed safari normally sees!

Our bird list was as follows:

Common name Scientific name Ostriches (Struthionidae) - 2 / 2 Common Ostrich Struthio camelus Somali Ostrich Struthio molybdophanes

Guineafowl (Numididae) - 2 / 6 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Vulturine Guineafowl Acryllium vulturinum

Pheasants & Allies (Phasianidae) - 5 / 184 Coqui Francolin Peliperdix coqui Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena Hildebrandt's Francolin Pternistis hildebrandti Jackson's Francolin Pternistis jacksoni Yellow-necked Spurfowl Pternistis leucoscepus Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei (H)

Ducks, Geese, Swans (Anatidae) - 10 / 174 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata Cape Teal Anas capensis Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha

Nightjars (Caprimulgidae) - 3 / 99 European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus Montane Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus

Swifts (Apodidae) - 8 / 113 Scarce Swift Schoutedenapus myoptilus Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis Common Swift Apus apus Nyanza Swift Apus niansae Little Swift Apus affinis White-rumped Swift Apus caffer

Turacos (Musophagidae) - 5 / 23 Great Blue Turaco Corythaeola cristata Fischer's Turaco Tauraco fischeri (H) Hartlaub's Turaco Tauraco hartlaubi Ross's Turaco Musophaga rossae Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster

Bustards (Otididae) - 5 / 26 Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori Heuglin's Bustard Neotis heuglinii White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis Buff-crested Bustard Lophotis gindiana Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster

Cuckoos (Cuculidae) - 9 / 149 White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Blue Malkoha Ceuthmochares aereus Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx montanus Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius

Sandgrouse (Pteroclidae) - 3 / 16 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus

Pigeons, Doves (Columbidae) - 13 / 345 Rock Dove Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea African Olive Pigeon Columba arquatrix Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon Columba delegorguei Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria Namaqua Dove Oena capensis African Green Pigeon Treron calvus

Flufftails (Sarothruridae) - 0 / 11 White-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura pulchra (H) H Buff-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura elegans (H)

Rails, Crakes & Coots (Rallidae) - 4 / 157 African Rail Rallus caerulescens (H) Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata

Cranes (Gruidae) - 1 / 15 Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum

Grebes (Podicipedidae) - 1 / 23 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Flamingos (Phoenicopteridae) - 2 / 6 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor

Crab-plover (Dromadidae) - 1 / 1 Crab-plover Dromas ardeola

Stilts, Avocets (Recurvirostridae) - 1 / 10 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Plovers (Charadriidae) - 15 / 67 Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus Senegal Lapwing Vanellus lugubris Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Caspian Plover Charadrius asiaticus

Jacanas (Jacanidae) - 2 / 8 Lesser Jacana Microparra capensis African Jacana Actophilornis africanus

Sandpipers, Snipes (Scolopacidae) - 14 / 96 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Ruff Calidris pugnax Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta African Snipe Gallinago nigripennis Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Coursers, Pratincoles (Glareolidae) - 4 / 17 Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola

Gulls, Terns, Skimmers (Laridae) - 12 / 101 African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Sooty Gull Ichthyaetus hemprichii Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis Common Tern Sterna hirundo Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

Storks (Ciconiidae) - 5 / 19 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer

Cormorants, Shags (Phalacrocoracidae) - 2 / 42 Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus

Anhingas, Darters (Anhingidae) - 1 / 4 African Darter Anhinga rufa

Ibises, Spoonbills (Threskiornithidae) - 4 / 36 African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Olive Ibis Bostrychia olivacea Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus African Spoonbill Platalea alba

Herons, Bitterns (Ardeidae) - 12 / 72 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Striated Heron Butorides striata Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Great Egret Ardea alba Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Hamerkop (Scopidae) - 1 / 1 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta

Pelicans (Pelecanidae) - 2 / 8 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens

Secretarybird (Sagittariidae) - 1 / 1 Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius

Kites, Hawks, Eagles (Accipitridae) - 35 / 257 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Rüppell's Vulture Gyps rueppelli White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus Crowned Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis Wahlberg's Eagle Hieraaetus wahlbergi Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates Eastern Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus Black Kite Milvus migrans Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus Augur Buzzard Buteo augur

Barn Owls (Tytonidae) - 0 / 20 Western Barn Owl Tyto alba

Owls (Strigidae) - 7 / 229 Sokoke Scops Owl Otus ireneae African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis Cape Eagle-Owl Bubo capensis Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus Greyish Eagle-Owl Bubo cinerascens Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii

Mousebirds (Coliidae) - 3 / 6 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus White-headed Mousebird Colius leucocephalus Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus

Trogons (Trogonidae) - 1 / 43 Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina

Hoopoes (Upupidae) - 1 / 4 African Hoopoe Upupa africana

Wood Hoopoes (Phoeniculidae) - 5 / 9 White-headed Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus bollei Green Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Grant's Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus granti Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor

Ground Hornbills (Bucorvidae) - 1 / 2 Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri

Hornbills (Bucerotidae) - 9 / 59 Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus Von der Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni Jackson's Hornbill Tockus jacksoni Crowned Hornbill Lophoceros alboterminatus Hemprich's Hornbill Lophoceros hemprichii African Grey Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus Trumpeter Hornbill Bycanistes bucinator Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill Bycanistes subcylindricus Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis

Rollers (Coraciidae) - 4 / 13 Purple Roller Coracias naevius Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus European Roller Coracias garrulus Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus

Kingfishers (Alcedinidae) - 9 / 114 Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

Bee-eaters (Meropidae) - 8 / 27 Blue-headed Bee-eater Merops muelleri Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus European Bee-eater Merops apiaster Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus

African Barbets (Lybiidae) - 14 / 42 Grey-throated Barbet Gymnobucco bonapartei White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis Green Barbet Stactolaema olivacea Moustached Tinkerbird Pogoniulus leucomystax Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus bilineatus Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus Yellow-spotted Barbet Buccanodon duchaillui Hairy-breasted Barbet Tricholaema hirsuta Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata Spot-flanked Barbet Tricholaema lacrymosa (H) Black-throated Barbet Tricholaema melanocephala White-headed Barbet Lybius leucocephalus Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus D'Arnaud's Barbet Trachyphonus darnaudii

Honeyguides (Indicatoridae) - 4 / 17 Least Honeyguide Indicator exilis Thick-billed Honeyguide Indicator conirostris Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor Scaly-throated Honeyguide Indicator variegatus Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator

Woodpeckers (Picidae) - 7 / 236 Red-throated Wryneck Jynx ruficollis (H) Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica Mombasa Woodpecker Campethera mombassica Green-backed Woodpecker Campethera cailliautii Tullberg's Woodpecker Campethera tullbergi Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens African Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae Eastern Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus

Caracaras, Falcons (Falconidae) - 8 / 66 Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo African Hobby Falco cuvierii Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

African & New World Parrots (Psittacidae) - 2 / 181 Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri Red-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris

Old World Parrots (Psittaculidae) - 1 / 192 Yellow-collared Lovebird Agapornis personatus

African and Green Broadbills (Calyptomenidae) - 1 / 6 African Broadbill Smithornis capensis

Wattle-eyes, Batises (Platysteiridae) - 4 / 31 Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Pale Batis Batis soror Pygmy Batis Batis perkeo Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea Jameson's Wattle-eye Platysteira jamesoni

Bushshrikes (Malaconotidae) - 13 / 50 Grey-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti Black-fronted Bushshrike Chlorophoneus nigrifrons Bocage's Bushshrike Chlorophoneus bocagei Orange-breasted Bushshrike Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus (H) Gorgeous Bushshrike Telophorus viridis (H) Rosy-patched Bushshrike Telophorus cruentus Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Three-streaked Tchagra Tchagra jamesi Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Fülleborn's Boubou fuelleborni Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris Lühder's Bushshrike Laniarius luehderi Laniarius major East Coast Boubou Laniarius sublacteus (H) Brubru Nilaus afer

Vangas & Allies (Vangidae) - 4 / 39 White-crested Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike Prionops scopifrons African Shrike-flycatcher Megabyas flammulatus Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher Bias musicus

Cuckooshrikes (Campephagidae) - 4 / 93 Grey Cuckooshrike Ceblepyris caesius Black Cuckooshrike Campephaga flava Petit's Cuckooshrike Campephaga petiti Purple-throated Cuckooshrike Campephaga quiscalina

Shrikes (Laniidae) - 10 / 33 Magpie Shrike Urolestes melanoleucus Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus ruppelli Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus Red-tailed Shrike Lanius phoenicuroides Mackinnon's Shrike Lanius mackinnoni Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis Northern Fiscal Lanius humeralis

Figbirds, Orioles, Turnagra (Oriolidae) - 5 / 38 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Green-headed Oriole Oriolus chlorocephalus Western Oriole Oriolus brachyrynchus Mountain Oriole Oriolus percivali Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus

Drongos (Dicruridae) - 3 / 30 Common Square-tailed Drongo Dicrurus ludwigii Sharpe's Drongo Dicrurus sharpei Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis

Monarchs (Monarchidae) - 1 / 102 African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis

Crows, Jays (Corvidae) - 5 / 134 House Crow Corvus splendens Cape Crow Corvus capensis Pied Crow Corvus albus Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis

Fairy Flycatchers (Stenostiridae) - 2 / 9 African Blue Flycatcher Elminia longicauda White-tailed Crested Flycatcher Elminia albonotata

Tits, Chickadees (Paridae) - 2 / 64 White-bellied Tit Melaniparus albiventris Dusky Tit Melaniparus funereus Acacia Tit Melaniparus thruppi

Nicators (Nicatoridae) - 0 / 3 Eastern Nicator Nicator gularis (H)

Larks (Alaudidae) - 13 / 98 Beesley's Lark Chersomanes beesleyi Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix signatus Fischer's Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucopareia Pink-breasted Lark Calendulauda poecilosterna Foxy Lark Calendulauda alopex Red-winged Lark Mirafra hypermetra Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea Singing Bush Lark Mirafra cantillans Short-tailed Lark Spizocorys fremantlii Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Athi Short-toed Lark Alaudala athensis

Bulbuls (Pycnonotidae) - 18 / 154 Dodson's Bulbul dodsoni Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor Shelley's Greenbul masukuensis Kakamega Greenbul Arizelocichla kakamegae Olive-breasted Greenbul Arizelocichla kikuyuensis Mountain Greenbul Arizelocichla nigriceps Stripe-faced Greenbul Arizelocichla striifacies Slender-billed Greenbul Stelgidillas gracilirostris Little Greenbul Eurillas virens (H) Little Grey Greenbul Eurillas gracilis Plain Greenbul Eurillas curvirostris Yellow-whiskered Greenbul Eurillas latirostris Andropadus importunus Joyful Greenbul Chlorocichla laetissima Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris Yellow-throated Leaflove Atimastillas flavicollis Northern Brownbul strepitans Toro Olive Greenbul Phyllastrephus hypochloris Cabanis's Greenbul Phyllastrephus cabanisi Placid Greenbul Phyllastrephus placidus (H) Red-tailed Bleda syndactylus

Swallows, Martins (Hirundinidae) - 12 / 88 White-headed Saw-wing Psalidoprocne albiceps Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne pristoptera Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola Sand Martin Riparia riparia Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Angolan Swallow Hirundo angolensis Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula Common House Martin Delichon urbicum Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica Mosque Swallow Cecropis senegalensis Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica

Crombecs, African Warblers (Macrosphenidae) - 2 / 18 Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii

Yellow Flycatchers (Erythrocercidae) - 1 / 3 Little Yellow Flycatcher Erythrocercus holochlorus

Hylia, Pholidornis (Hyliidae) - 1 / 2 Green Hylia Hylia prasina

Leaf Warblers & Allies (Phylloscopidae) - 4 / 80 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus ruficapilla Uganda Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus budongoensis

Reed Warblers & Allies (Acrocephalidae) - 3 / 62 Greater Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus rufescens Lesser Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris Upcher's Warbler Hippolais languida

Grassbirds & Allies (Locustellidae) - 2 / 64 Fan-tailed Grassbird Catriscus brevirostris Evergreen Forest Warbler Bradypterus lopez (H)i Cinnamon Bracken Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus Highland Rush Warbler Bradypterus centralis (H)

Cisticolas & Allies () - 39 / 162 Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans Chubb's Cisticola Cisticola chubby Hunter's Cisticola Cisticola hunter Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana Boran Cisticola Cisticola bodessa (H) Ashy Cisticola Cisticola cinereolus Winding Cisticola Cisticola marginatus Coastal Cisticola Cisticola haematocephalus Levaillant's Cisticola Cisticola tinniens Stout Cisticola Cisticola robustus Aberdare Cisticola Cisticola Aberdare Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis Tiny Cisticola Cisticola nana Short-winged Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus (H) Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens Wing-snapping Cisticola Cisticola ayresii Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Pale Prinia Prinia somalica Black-faced Prinia Prinia melanops White-chinned Prinia Schistolais leucopogon Black-collared Apalis Oreolais pulcher Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella Bar-throated Apalis Apalis thoracica Taita Apalis Apalis fuscigularis Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida Black-throated Apalis Apalis jacksoni Black-headed Apalis Apalis melanocephala Chestnut-throated Apalis Apalis porphyrolaema Buff-throated Apalis Apalis rufogularis Grey Apalis Apalis cinerea Red-fronted Warbler Urorhipis rufifrons Grey-capped Warbler Eminia lepida Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata Olive-green Camaroptera Camaroptera chloronota Grey Wren-Warbler Calamonastes simplex Black-faced Rufous Warbler Bathmocercus rufus Long-billed Forest Warbler Artisornis moreaui Red-capped Forest Warbler Artisornis metopias Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis Turner's Eremomela Eremomela turneri

Fulvettas, Ground Babblers (Pellorneidae) - 0 / 70 Scaly-breasted Illadopsis Illadopsis albipectus (H)

Laughingthrushes & Allies (Leiothrichidae) - 7 / 135 Rufous Chatterer rubiginosa Scaly Chatterer Argya aylmeri Arrow-marked Babbler jardineii Scaly Babbler Turdoides squamulata Northern Pied Babbler Turdoides hypoleuca Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei Hinde's Babbler Turdoides hindei

Sylviid Babblers (Sylviidae) - 6 / 70 African Hill Babbler Pseudoalcippe abyssinica Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis Brown Parisoma Sylvia lugens Banded Parisoma Sylvia boehmi

White-eyes (Zosteropidae) - 4 / 144 Pale White-eye Zosterops flavilateralis Taita White-eye Zosterops silvanus Kikuyu White-eye Zosterops kikuyuensis Northern Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis

Starlings, Rhabdornis (Sturnidae) - 17 / 123 Wattled Starling Creatophora cinereal Black-bellied Starling Notopholia corusca Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Rüppell's Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera Golden-breasted Starling Lamprotornis regius Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Hildebrandt's Starling Lamprotornis hildebrandti Ashy Starling Lamprotornis unicolor Fischer's Starling Lamprotornis fischeri Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris Waller's Starling Onychognathus walleri Bristle-crowned Starling Onychognathus salvadorii Stuhlmann's Starling Poeoptera stuhlmanni Kenrick's Starling Poeoptera kenricki Abbott's Starling Poeoptera femoralis Magpie Starling Speculipastor bicolor

Oxpeckers (Buphagidae) - 2 / 2 Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorynchus

Thrushes (Turdidae) - 5 / 172 Red-tailed Ant Thrush Neocossyphus rufus African Thrush Turdus pelios Bare-eyed Thrush Turdus tephronotus Abyssinian Thrush Turdus abyssinicus Taita Thrush Turdus helleri

Chats, Old World Flycatchers (Muscicapidae) - 28 / 332 Bearded Scrub Robin Cercotrichas quadrivirgata Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas galactotes White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Grey Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher Melaenornis fischeri Southern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis pammelaina Pale Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus African Grey Flycatcher Melaenornis microrhynchus Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Chapin's Flycatcher Muscicapa lendu African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta Brown-chested Alethe Chamaetylas poliocephala Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat Cossypha cyanocampter Rüppell's Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa (H) White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini Red-capped Robin-Chat Cossypha natalensis (H) Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha niveicapilla White-starred Robin Pogonocichla stellate Equatorial Akalat Sheppardia aequatorialis East Coast Akalat Sheppardia gunning (H) Spotted Palm Thrush Cichladusa guttata African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Moorland Chat Pinarochroa sordida Mocking Cliff Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris Anteater Chat Myrmecocichla aethiops Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Brown-tailed Rock Chat Oenanthe scotocerca Abyssinian Wheatear Oenanthe lugubris

Sunbirds (Nectariniidae) - 23 / 145 Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes orientalis Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes neglectus Banded Green Sunbird Anthreptes rubritorques Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris Amani Sunbird Hedydipna pallidigaster Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea Green-throated Sunbird Chalcomitra rubescens Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra amethystina Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Hunter's Sunbird Chalcomitra hunteri Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze Bronzy Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa Golden-winged Sunbird Drepanorhynchus reichenowi Northern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris reichenowi Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris mediocris Usambara Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris usambaricus Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciatus Violet-breasted Sunbird Cinnyris chalcomelas Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus

Old World Sparrows, Snowfinches (Passeridae) - 7 / 43 House Sparrow Passer domesticus Kenya Sparrow Passer rufocinctus Northern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus Parrot-billed Sparrow Passer gongonensis Swahili Sparrow Passer suahelicus Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow Gymnoris pyrgita

Weavers, Widowbirds () - 39 / 117 Red-billed Buffalo Weaver niger White-headed Buffalo Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Rufous-tailed Weaver Histurgops ruficauda Grey-capped Social Weaver arnaudi Black-capped Social Weaver Pseudonigrita cabanisi Speckle-fronted Weaver frontalis Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons baglafecht Ploceus luteolus Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis Black-billed Weaver Ploceus melanogaster Eastern Golden Weaver Ploceus subaureus Holub's Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops Ploceus bojeri Taveta Weaver Ploceus castaneiceps Northern Masked Weaver Ploceus taeniopterus Ploceus intermedius Ploceus vitellinus Speke's Weaver Ploceus spekei Ploceus cucullatus Vieillot's Black Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus jacksoni Ploceus rubiginosus Dark-backed Weaver Ploceus bicolor Brown-capped Weaver Ploceus insignis Red-headed Malimbe rubricollis Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps Red-billed Quelea quelea Yellow-crowned Bishop afer Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii Zanzibar Red Bishop Euplectes nigroventris Euplectes capensis Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Yellow-mantled Widowbird Euplectes macroura White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus Long-tailed Widowbird Euplectes progne

Waxbills, Munias & Allies (Estrildidae) - 18 / 142 Grey-headed Nigrita Nigrita canicapillus Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Cut-throat Finch Amadina fasciata Red-headed Bluebill Spermophaga ruficapilla Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus Blue-capped Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster Yellow-bellied Waxbill Coccopygia quartinia Crimson-rumped Waxbill Estrilda rhodopyga Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Kandt's Waxbill Estrilda kandti Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis African Silverbill Euodice cantans Grey-headed Silverbill Odontospiza caniceps Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata Red-backed Mannikin Lonchura nigriceps

Indigobirds, Whydahs (Viduidae) - 4 / 20 Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Straw-tailed Whydah Vidua fischeri Long-tailed Paradise Whydah Vidua paradisaea

Wagtails, Pipits (Motacillidae) - 13 / 69 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Golden Pipit Tmetothylacus tenellus Sharpe's Longclaw Macronyx sharpei Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Striped Pipit Anthus lineiventris Sokoke Pipit Anthus sokokensis Malindi Pipit Anthus melindae

Finches, Euphonias (Fringillidae) - 10 / 228 African Citril Crithagra citrinelloides Southern Citril Crithagra hyposticta Reichenow's Seedeater Crithagra reichenowi Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica White-bellied Canary Crithagra dorsostriata Southern Grosbeak-Canary Crithagra buchanani Brimstone Canary Crithagra sulphurata Thick-billed Seedeater Crithagra burtoni Streaky Seedeater Crithagra striolata Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex

Buntings (Emberizidae) - 1 / 44 Somali Bunting Emberiza poliopleura Cabanis's Bunting Emberiza cabanisi (H)

Our list of mammals was also not too shabby – several are regarded as subspecies, and are included in the list for sake of completeness:

Common name Scientific name Canidae - 2 / 40 Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis

Felidae - 1 / 39 Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus Lion Panthera leo

Herpestidae - 2 / 35 Common Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula Slender Mongoose Helogale parvula Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo

Bovidae - 16 / 147 Impala Aepyceros melampus Coke's Hartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus cokii Common Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Topi Damaliscus lunatus jimela Thomson's Gazelle Eudorcas thomsonii Defassa Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus defassa Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus ellipsiprymnus Gerenuk Litocranius walleri Kirk's Dik-dik Madoqua kirkii Naivasha Dik-dik Madoqua ?? Grant's Gazelle Nanger granti Peter's Gazelle Nanger granti petersi Suni Nesotragus moschatus Steenbok Raphicerus campestris Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca Common Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia African Buffalo Syncerus caffer Common Eland Tragelaphus oryx Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus

Giraffidae - 1 / 2 Rothschild's Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi Masaai Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchii

Hippopotamidae - 1 / 4 Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius

Suidae - 1 / 19 Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus

Pteropodidae - 2 / 187 African Straw-coloured Fruit-bat Eidolon helvum Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bat Epomophorus wahlbergi

Procaviidae - 1 / 5 Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis

Leporidae - 1 / 62 Cape Hare Lepus capensis

Macroscelididae - 1 / 19 Golden-rumped Sengi Rhynchocyon chrysopygus

Equidae - 1 / 9 Plains Zebra Equus quagga

Rhinocerotidae - 2 / 5 White Rhinoceros Ceratotherium simum Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis

Cercopithecidae - 7 / 135 Uganda Red-tailed Monkey Cercopithecus ascanius Stuhlmann's Blue Monkey Cercopithecus mitis stuhlmanni Mt. Kenya Kolb's Monkey Cercopithecus mitis kolbi Zanzibar Syke's Monkey Cercopithecus albogularis albogularis Hilgert's Vervet Chlorocebus pygerythrus hilgerti Angola Colobus Colobus angolensis Mau Forest Guereza Colobus guereza matschiei Olive Baboon Papio anubis Yellow Baboon Papio cynocephalus

Galagidae - 1 / 17 White-tailed Small-eared Galago Otolemur garnettii lasiotis

Elephantidae - 1 / 3 African Elephant Loxodonta africana

Sciuridae - 3 / 280 Red-legged Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus rufobrachium Zanj Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus undulatus Red Bush Squirrel (Red-bellied Sun Squirrel) Paraxerus palliatus Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus

The photographs were taken/copyright of Niall Perrins. In order they are:

 Mt Kenya taken from Nyeri  Superb Starling  Coqui (Plain-bellied) Francolin  Black-collared Apalis  Brown-throated Wattle-eye  African Fish Eagle  Giant Kingfisher  Sharpe’s Longclaw  Tacazze Sunbird  Jackson’s Chameleon  Pink-breasted Lark  Taita Thrush  Heuglin’s Bustard  Golden Pipit  Sokoke Scops Owl  Little Yellow Flycatcher  Sooty Gull  Peregrine Falcon with Common Tern prey (which escaped)  Silvery-cheeked Hornbill  Banded Green Sunbird  Long-billed Forest Warbler  Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse  Steppe Eagle  The group at Engikaret “Lark Plains”  Beesley’s Lark