Reefs & Rainforests Conservation Success Stories in Borneo’s Sabah

Text and photos by Andrea & Antonella Ferrari www.reefwonders.net Encompassing an area of rou- ghly 460 square kilometers just off Northern Sabah’s shores, right where Malaysian Borneo’s landmass, small offshore islands and interna- tional waters intermingle with their Philippine counterparts in the Sulu Sea, lies the Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area, or SIMCA, for friends. The island of Lankayan and its two neighbouring sisters Billean and Tegaipil have been declared since the year 2000 part and parcel of the protected area in what has since proven—beyond any doubt— to be an extraordinary landmark in the history of eco-tourism.

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Bridled anemonefish; Sunset on the pier at Lankayan; Dive boat racing to a dive site

Destructive practices such as cyanide ting to be scientifically described. Marine life fishing, reef bombing and deep-water SIMCA’s main topside landmarks Fish life is unbelievably abundant, trawling—which had been regular- are the uninhabited and sun-scor- luring in fleets of trawlers from both ly employed in the area for several ched islands of Billean and Tegaipil, countries and the occasional big years by local and Philippine fisher- and of course, the fabled Lankayan game fisherman. It was two of these, men—are today no more allowed in Island—the only one with a human Ricky Chin and Kenneth Chung—two the surrounding waters. Turtle eggs presence. Lankayan boasts a world- friends from the nearby coastal town are regularly collected from nests dug famous, upper-class, and most of of Sandakan—who discovered it in the sand and safely hatched under all, eco-friendly dive resort, sitting in several years ago during one of their controlled conditions for reintroduc- splendid isolation on this tranquil little big game fishing forays, and who tion in the wild, and many other private island in the midst of the Sulu made friends with Haji Bambi, the conservation programmes are now Sea. only man who back then was living being—and will be in the future— Since our first visit to Lankayan more there, after a life rich in adventures vigorously implemented by Sugud than twelve years ago, we immedia- in the sea between Sabah and the Islands Marine Conservation Area’s tely realized there was something spe- Philippines. (SIMCA) managing company Reef cial about the place. The island (or To make a long story short, their Guardian, a private venture working “Pulau” in Malay) is strategically situa- meeting was at the origin of Pulau in strict accordance with the Sabah ted between the coast of Sabah and Lankayan as we know it today—a Wildlife Department. the myriad of islands spreading from small, pristine tropical island on which The area within the borders of the Southern Philippines. Its very name a quiet, elegant resort caters to the SIMCA consists of a beautiful envi- means, in fact, “the last outpost”. This needs of discerning divers and vaca- ronment encompassing small unin- labyrinthine maze of shallow turquoise tioners from the world over. A per- habited coral sand islands, patches waters and jungle-clad sandy cays fect holiday destination, the place of mangroves, huge seagrass beds, has hidden and protected for centu- —a tiny dot in the Sulu Sea about shallow sandy flats and an immense ries the secret sea lanes used by pira- one-and-a-half hours by speedboat number of submerged coral reefs that tes, poachers, smugglers, and even from the coastal town of Sandakan host an enormous number of marine assassins. in Malaysian Sabah, on the island species, many of which are still wai- of Borneo—is a gorgeous, picture- PREVIOUS PAGE: Elephant in jungle; Rainforest frog; Orang-utan; Diver and feather corals; Pin-striped wrasse 23 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

perfect cay, boasting pure white sandy in the distance, and the jungle-shrouded branchs, dwarf cuttlefish, fluorescent fire beaches and a lovely, garden-like jungle mountains of Sabah tower on the hori- urchins with attendant crabs and huge interior, offering the exhilarating diving zon, bathed in golden glorious sunsets. lobsters dot the sand and coral bottom one has come to expect from Sabah’s An informal, friendly, casual atmos- of each and everyone of the thirty- dive sites (shallow coral reefs, unsurpas- phere adds to the pleasant feeling of plus dive spots Lankayan offers at the sed macro life, undescribed new spe- “away-from-it-all” relaxation. Everything moment. cies waiting to be discovered, big fish is so well spaced out and cleverly plan- The list of rare species regularly obser- action, enormous biodiversity, interesting ned you might sometimes think you’re all ved here includes robust and ornate wrecks). alone by yourself on the island. ghost pipefish, frogfish, mandarinfish, Add to the mixture an exquisitely sty- blue-ringed octopus, wonder octopus led, upscale resort, elegant and comfor- Diving and giant jawfish. Larger sightings along table twin-sharing seafront chalets with The diving is at shallow to medium dep- the reef include lots of harmless bam- private and well-appointed bathrooms, ths, always enjoyable, never risky or fati- boo and coral cat sharks, blue-spotted an open-air restaurant offering great guing. The dive center is well equipped rays, yellowtail and chevron barracu- food and a spectacular sundeck with an and ideally situated at the end of the das, huge shoals of scads and robust endless expanse of turquoise water just long jetty. The island staff are, if possible, fusiliers, giant bumphead parrotfish, a a few feet below, and you’ll see why we even more cheerful and willing to help large variety of scorpionfish and lots of love the place. than in the rest of Sabah, Malaysia—a leopard (or zebra, as they are sometimes Here’s a private exotic island where country remarkable for its extraordinary called) sharks. even non-divers can enjoy the perfect tradition of hospitality. Chance encounters with bigger fish holiday, relaxing on the beach or snor- Small species here—many absolutely are not uncommon: very large adult kelling in the crystal-clear shallow waters fascinating and quite a few still undescri- blacktip sharks are commonly observed of the lagoon, while sea eagles fly over, bed by science—reign supreme: resplen- in several of Lankayan’s outer dive sites, Batfish in coral garden; Sundeck at Lankayan their piercing screeches tearing the sky dent gobies, unbelievably colourful nudi- whale sharks patrol in season the open Resort; Diver with large anemone 24 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Linedcheeked wrasse; Lionfish; Snorkeler in bay at Lankayan; Mug shot of moray eel

water between the island and grays, frogfish, scorpionfish, for wide angle lovers and big the mainland, while giant gui- lionfish and huge shoals of fish addicts, especially since tarfish—locally known as malu- pelagics—and what is left (very it quite common encounte- malu—are a rarer sighting. little, alas!) of an historically ring large animals during the During our most recent trip significant armed barge belon- course of a single dive (our there, we bumped into a ging to the “Mosquito Fleet”, record is five leopard sharks, three-meter long Galapagos which served the Japanese one huge mangrove stingray, shark leisurely cruising at a and sunk during World War II. a whale shark and a roving depth of five meters, and One word of advice: due pack of five adult blacktip many of our Sabahan friends to its close proximity to the sharks in one day!). have told us about occasional coast of Sabah with its atten- Lankayan is a macro life tiger shark sightings. dant run-off from big muddy paradise with few compa- A fascinating array of rivers and oil palm planta- risons but no destination for spectacular species is also tions, underwater visibility at wide angle photographers, encountered at the two Lankayan is usually far from and divers must think of it wrecks in the vicinity of perfect, even if there are more in terms of a successful Lankayan: the imposing unpredictable exceptions. conservation story than as a remains of a huge Chinese While this is of no conse- gin-clear water destination. As wooden fishing vessel sunk on quence at all for macro pho- a tropical island destination purpose—now home to giant tographers and videographers, for honeymooners, snorkellers, groupers, giant marbled stin- it may prove quite frustrating diving families and macro rese-

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CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Blenny; Eggs in the oven; Eye of blue spotted stingray; Goby on hard coral; Leopard shark resting; Scorpionfish; Map puffer fish

archers, it has however very few later sold to Chinese restaurants) equals anywhere. and trawling (with weighted nets But to Ken Chung, managing which scrape the sea bottom floor, director of PSR—the dive resort destroying everything in their path) company which also owns and would soon take their toll if left operates Kapalai resort, close to unchecked. world-famous Sipadan Island, and The first tentative conservation the jungle resort in Sepilok—there is efforts soon paid off: feeding a more to Lankayan than just tourism. resident population of baby and With the passing of time, Ken juvenile blacktip sharks encoura- Chung realized the intricate envi- ged the endangered predators ronment of Pulau Lankayan and its to stick close to the island reefs, surrounding coral reefs were going away from roving fishermen in the to be endangered soon. The very open sea; scores of hawksbill and same marine life which attracted green turtle eggs, laid in the sand tourists and divers from all over the by their mothers, would be dug out world was acting as a beacon for and hatched inside fences which fishing boats, raiding these waters in protected them from predators, always greater numbers. and hatchlings would be carefully Local fishermen and their released into the sea; the cutting counterparts from the Philippines of trees and shrubs on the island would not hesitate to resort to would be kept to a minimum, and highly destructive fishing methods, all trash and refuse would be care- largely and for a long time in use fully disposed of. on Sout East Asian coral reefs: fish We were there all the time, twice bombing (in which home-made a year, to see and follow the grow- and quite dangerous bombs con- th of an eco-friendly mentality sisting of a bottle full of fertilizer are on the island. Year after year, we thrown in the water or on coral noticed how the steps taken in the reefs), cyanide fishing (in which the right direction would not interfere noxious chemical is squirted using with the functioning of the resort, a spray bottle among the nooks the relaxed, laid-back atmosphere, and crannies of the reef to stun fish which still unfailingly impresses first-

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time visi- patrol and manage such a huge area. More methods of rubbish and non-solid waste tors. was needed. disposal have been developed and resear- The place ched, to first minimize and then completely was good—but Reef Gardian it was getting Enter Reef Guardian, the private com- better. Big fish pany which now works side-by-side with sightings became the norm— the Malaysian Government and the Wildlife we missed the Giant guitarfish Department of Sabah to manage and con- but many others did not, and we were serve the area. A lot of hard work, tireless the first ever to capture on film the incuba- lobbying and clever political maneuvering tion of eggs in the oral cavity by the ende- succeeded at last in transforming the dream mic Giant jawfish. in reality. In 2003, the Marine Protected Area CLOCKWISE FROM We swam with huge Whale sharks, we (MCA) of the Sugud Islands was finally offi- RIGHT: Whale witnessed the violent courtship ritual and cially declared. The playground of a lucky shark, the largest subsequent mating of Leopard sharks, and few had become a winning example of eco- fish in the sea; Two we found lovely Zebra crabs and Coleman’s logical conservation through the cooperation baby sea turtles shrimps tucked among the venomous spines between private enterprise and the state. make their way to of fire urchins. Marine life was improving, the PSR, through its subsidiary, Reef Guardian, the open ocean; Copperband but- unmistakable signs were everywhere. The protects and conserves the natural resources terflyfish (inset); hard and sometimes dangerous job of resort of the area, reinvesting part of the profits into Two Coleman manager, Ricky Chin—always ready to jump its management. Patrol boats have been shrimp on fire on a speedboat to chase away poaching bought and equipped staff members have urchin; Feather fishermen—was giving welcome results. been employed and well trained. Marine coral and sponges But then it became clear a single private biologists have been invited to conduct sur- operation would not be enough to properly veys and a census of the marine life. New

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Hairy squat lobster; Hawkfish and fan coral; Enjoying a sunset swim at Lankayan; Nudibranch Chromodoris coi; Aerial view of the island of Lankayan

gile marine ecosystem of Lankayan for us all to enjoy. The story of Lankayan shows what can be done when an individual with a thinking brain, a clear vision (and admittedly a lot of capital) can do when he sets his mind on eco-tourism and marine environment protection. Its success has recently led to the creation of a second eco-friendly upscale dive resort, this time on the nei- ghboring island of Billean. From what we have seen—it will probably open in 2010—it promises to be even better than the origi- nal one on Lankayan.

Concluding thoughts habitats as a whole is the first unavoidable step We have travelled and dived the world far towards protection of single species, and habitat and wide, but the story of Pulau Lankayan protection needs lots of money to be implemented and the Sugud Islands Marine Conservation correctly. The costs are high, but as the axiom says, Area is still quite unique in our experience. “think globally, act locally”. avoid the seepage of nitrates (the bane of island Most dive resort operators are not really willing to Patrols must be regularly mounted, staff must be resorts with no sewer systems) in the surrounding, pri- embark onto such a far-reaching voyage, being properly trained in field procedures and regularly stine sea waters. contented to mind their own business, failing to paid, expensive equipment must be acquired and The huge problem of phosphates coming from oil realize the extent of consequences when the local mantained, research must be done and updated, plantations on the coast and being flooded out to government (and people) are not actively involved. data must be stored and analyzed. sea —where they lead to plankton and algal bloo- How many private entrepreneurs have actually Without money, there’s no protection, and without ming, putting the survival of coral colonies at risk— succeeded in having the government declare a protection only destruction will follow. The proper by rains and rivers is going to be tackled soon. And protected area around their own island or stretch management of a successful dive resort and ope- many more steps will surely be taken in the future to of land? How many tourist and dive operators have ration such as Lankayan points the way in the right preserve, defend and re-habilitate the splendid, fra- actually tried and fought to do so? Protection of direction. The results are there for all to see. ■

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Text and photos by big red-haired apes, their extraordi- take the coiled shape of the pit Andrea and Antonella Ferrari nary prowess in tree-climbing and viper waiting in ambush. A little upside-down vine-dangling, and patience will repay the visitor with The biggest mistake one after having been dutifully moved extraordinary gifts. could do while visiting the to the depth of the heart by their And after having experienced soulful gaze (no other primate looks the tropical forest in its full com- Sepilok lowland tropical at you like an orang-utan does), plexity, even the orang-utans will forest would be watching the visitors should stay a little longer appear in a new, full, more com- the orang-utans, or rather, in the forest, to take a leisurely stroll plex dimension, encomprising their watching only the orang- along the well-marked trail in the role in the ecology of the forest company of a biologist and guide and their extremely difficult situa- utans. That is because this from the Rehabilitation Center. tion at the present time, when formidable stretch of wil- It is then, and only then, that one their survival in the wild is severely derness—wisely preserved will be able to hear the hypnotic, endangered by logging, mining just a few miles from the cycada-like song of the tree frogs, and general habitat encroach- the booming, cackling call of the ment by human beings. Their’s is a modern bustle of Sandakan great hornbill, the soft rustle in the complex problem, and one which town—offers an unequalled dead leaves on the forest floor at touches us all: the preservation, opportunity to observe in the passing of a bronze skink. Only not of a single species, but of full then, the metallic shine of spider habitats is rapidly becoming one of comfort the utterly complex eyes will be apparent; only then, the most important concerns of the mechanisms of nature at the dead brown little branch will new century. work in the tropics. start walking with the hesitant steps of the stick insect; and it is only Where to stay THIS PAGE: Orang-utans lounge in the trees of the After having admired for as long as then, that the bright green leaf So, to take the time needed to fully forest at Sepilok’s Rehabilitation Center; Green needed the delicate grace of the buds on a low shrub will suddenly appreciate the ancient rhythms of snake hides among the branches (above) Sepilok Calotes lizard 29 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

the forest, and grasses and a collection of more than the best 150 different Asian orchid species. The Orang- thing one Utan Rehabilitation Center (where young could do captive or abandoned orang-utans are being is stay at helped by a highly trained and motivated least a few staff to readjust to a life in the wild) and the days at actual Sepilok Forest Reserve are just a couple the Sepilok of minutes’ walk away, and the Resort staff Nature are happy to organize birding, trekking and Resort, river trips to the neighbouring areas (inclu- a most ding the fauna-rich Sukau area along the beautiful Kinabatangan River). compound Before venturing further away, however, bordering one should first take advantage of the com- on the pro- forts offered by the Sepilok Nature Resort tected area and fully explore the natural wonders of the (it is actually Sepilok-Kabili Forest Reserve, which has not uncom- enough to offer to keep one busy for months. mon to have Here, insects, amphibians, reptiles and birds orang-utans, abound; the trails are very well marked; and macaques or the local guides are friendly, reliable and even pythons wandering around among the extremely knowledgeable. Visits to Sepilok are chalets) and perfectly integrated with the sur- also usually combined with dive trips to the rounding forest. beautiful island of Lankayan, which is owned Set in a spectacularly landscaped private and managed by the same company. ■ area of manicured lawns, orchid gardens and rolling hills, the fully airconditioned (and very comfortable) twin bed chalets feature beau- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sepilok Resort tiful lake or jungle view verandas and private restaurant overlooking a jungle lined lake; bathrooms with hot water. The surrounding Orchids of the forest; Brilliant colored bee- park, which would take half a day to explo- tle found in the forest; Another splendid re, offers an amazing array of tropical plants orchid on the grounds; Sepllok Resort bun- galows; Pair of orchids (inset)

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Text and photos by Andrea and Antonella Ferrari The lowland riverine forest, encompassing the exten- sive Kinabatangan river basin and its 26,000-hectare wildli- fe sanctuary, has few rivals in the world for remoteness, rich- ness of animal species and just sheer natural beauty. At the same time, this spectacular and mostly untouched wilderness of Malaysian Borneo is very acces- sible and easily explored — usually by small boat during the day or walking by night or late one-hour long boat trip that ends at one all very clean and very well organized), Kinabatangan river basin with its enor- cared for. Regularly subject to tides and evening. of the riverside resorts’ pier. More and good standards and very tasty Sabahan mous, eerily beautiful oxbow lagoons periodical inundations during the rainy more guesthouses, jungle camps and food, often using locally acquired, fresh and many small, twisting tributaries is by season, in a perennial state of flux and Departing from Sandakan harbour, visi- fully-fledged forest lodges have been organic products such as delicious vege- booking a week-long stay via a specia- sparsely populated along its banks by tors can easily reach the Sanctuary’s recently popping up along the river’s tables or fruit and big river prawns grown lized wildlife travel agency in Sandakan; small fishing and farming communities, headquarters in Sukau—where most of banks, all offering excellent accomo- and farmed by the local Orang Sungai service is usually excellent and specific the Kinabatangan river basin represents the lodges are located—by a scenic dations (of varying level and cost, but (river people). The best way to visit the needs of visitors are normally very well a very unique natural environment, pea-

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cefully shared by humans and a good telephoto wildlife. (VR-equipped or with a sturdy tripod) for all The Importance the big and not so big of a Good Guide species you’ll observe The Kinabatangan river basin during the day from the is a wildlife photographer’s safety your boat, and a good canoe powered by both petrol dream come true, as most flash, and your macro lens of and electric engines to start the Borneo wildlife is not only richly choice for all the weird and day’s explorations. The boats represented in the area but wonderful little critters you’ll see are lightweight, flat-bottomed also often easily sighted and at night. and very stable, making an photographed around Sukau, Being in Borneo, a sun hat excellent platform for a pho- provided one knows where and and a lightweight rain poncho tographer’s tripod – the local when to look. This is obviously a are nice to have around, espe- boatmen employed by the destination where the services cially if you plan to spend a lot lodges take great pride and of an experienced local wildlife of time exploring the river by are very good at switching from guide are a must, especially boat. Night walks are safe and petrol to electric just at the for those taking their exploring easy (leeches are harmless and right time to allow as close an seriously. nothing to worry about), but approach to wildlife as human- We had a stroke of luck and bring a pair of strong, comfor- ly possible. had the time of our lives with table jungle or trekking ankle Most exploration takes place Dennis Ikon, a native, self-tau- boots and a small torch with at a leisurely pace along the CLOCKWISE: ght enthusiast who is not only you, and be prepared to get Kinabatangan muddy banks Harlequin a very experienced rainforest very wet and very muddy. and up its small, meandering gliding frog; guide but also a passionate tributary, the extraordinarily Crab-eating wildlife photographer to boost, Where to go scenic Menanggol. It’s a good macaque; Mouse always ready to recognize a & what to do in Sukau idea to book one’s accomo- deer; Wagler’s pit photographer’s special need The average day in Sukau starts dation as close as possible viper; Proboscis mon- key male on tree trunk; or request without even being just before dawn, with the fara- to its mouth, as the winding Mangrove snake resting asked; he certainly made the way hok-hok of some distant course of the forest-canopied among branches difference for us. He has wor- hornbill welcoming the first Menanggol is a favourite desti- ked many times with big-time, warm rays of the sun over the nation for wildlife enthusiasts PREVIOUS PAGE: Pied exceedingly demanding pros steaming jungle. After a lovely and birdwatchers visiting the Hornbill; Visitors exploring such as Frans Lanting, so he breakfast at the lodge, visitors Kinabatangan area. So, to the Menanggol tributary, knows his trade well! hurry down the river side jetty enjoy it at is most evocative, an oxbow lagoon of Remember to take with you to board a small, low aluminum unpopulated best, it’s better the Kinabatangan

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CLOCKWSIE FROM INSET BELOW: A flower by the river; Buffy fishing owl at night; Stick insect; Water monitor; Rainforest katy- did mimicking a leaf; Large Saltwater or Estuarine crocodile in the Menanggol

offering wonderful opportuni- theless officially considered today to be macaques, wild orangutans and probo- at night and with a warm tropical drizzle ties for safe, comfortable and one of the most important and pristine scis monkeys are commonly observed, shrouding the thick forest. All in all, the very fruitful night walks. areas of wilderness in the whole world, often up close and at length. In fact, the Kinabatangan river basin is a treasure Even closer to the coast and and as such, it cannot be missed by wil- Kinabatangan Wildlife Sancuary is the trove of rare, endangered and fascina- branching dlife enthusiasts. Floating down its murky, best spot anywhere to observe the rare ting tropical species, all to be found and out to the deep, slow-flowing waters is like taking a elephant of Borneo, a smallish and frien- often easily observed in a landscape Sulu Sea itself, veritable trip back in time. dlier cousin of the Indian one which has of unrivalled beauty and isolation. As the immense recently been awarded its own species a choice destination for the discerning estuary of the A treasure trove status. wildlife photographer and nature enthu- Kinabatangan for wildlife lovers This is also the land of flying snakes siast, it truly has few equals anywhere, is clogged But what about the animals one can and flying frogs, while those interested and one can only hope its currently in thick, lab- hope to see? Well, we know very few in insects and spiders—often quite large protected status will keep it healthy and to get there before anybody yrinthine, areas outside of the African plains and and very colorful—will keep their came- untouched for many, many more years else, immediately after sunrise. If impenetrable the Venezuelan Llanos where one can ras clicking away, especially if going out to come. ■ you’re staying at a lodge close forest of man- hope to observe and photograph such to its mouth you’ll also be able groves and spectacular amounts of tropical wildli- to linger around for a longer Nipa palms— fe. Remember always, however...this is time in the evening before going primordially South-East Asia—not the Serengeti! back for dinner and your night beautiful and Commonly sighted reptile species here walk. If you can afford it and are rich in species are estuarine or saltwater crocodiles serious about your wildlife photo- but not easily (with some very big individuals occa- graphy, go for your own personal guide ex- sionally sighted up close), reticulate and boat. It will surely make a difference. plored or, thankfully, exploited. You will pythons, mangrove and dog-toothed have excellent opportunities to admire cat snakes, bright green temple pit vipers On foot or by boat this unique environment on your way to and very large water monitors, while The thickly forested area around Sukau and from Sukau. among the 250 bird species found in the itself—this is prime virgin lowland diptero- Encroached on all sides by rapidly area one can sight, among others, sev- carp country—makes extended explo- developing oil palm plantations—the eral species of large hornbills (including ration on foot rather difficult, but that scourge of Borneo’s primeval forests— the spectacular Rhinoceros hornbill), fish- around the village of Abai—somewhat and endangered by logging plantations, eagles, buffy owls, kingfishers, cuckoos downriver and closer to the coast and which severely curtail the larger animals’ and darters. Among the large mammals, the sea—allows excellent walks on well- migratory routes and forest corridors, the wild pigs, dwarf Bornean elephants, maintained forest trails and boardwalks, Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary is never- river otters, leaf monkeys, long-tailed

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Text and photos by Foundation, created in 1966 for conservation, Andrea and Antonella Ferrari research, education and physical training purposes. The nearest town, Lahad Datu—a —A pristine, virgin rainforest quiet, smallish settlement at the crossroads between Sandakan and Tawau, which can The crown jewel of the untouched be easily reached by car or twin-engine tur- nature of Borneo, the legendary boprop flight from both centers—is about 82km away (about a two-hour drive by four- Danum Valley Conservation Area is wheel drive vehicles on mainly unpaved the largest protected lowland dip- washboard logging roads in good weather, terocarp primary forest in Sabah, but be prepared for a much longer Camel Malaysia. This pristine, untouched Trophy-style slog if it has been raining!). Given its formidable isolation and impene- area of extraordinary beauty holds trable rainforest cover, accomodation in the an unique status among other pro- area is presently limited to two basic choices: tected areas. Before it became a the Danum Valley Field Centre, a research conservation area, there were no establishment reserved for scientists and edu- cation purposes only; while the other, rather human settlements within the area, splendid (and understandably rather expensi- meaning that hunting, logging and ve) Borneo Rainforest Lodge, has been crea- other human interference was non- ted with conservation and low-environmental impact in mind for tourists to stay. From its existent. beautiful, well-appointed chalets, visitors can take long, guided walks through lowland rain- This makes the area one-of-a-kind among forest trails, while other activities include night Danum other protected areas in Sabah—evidenced walks (serious wildlife photographers should The valley where time at first glance by both the number of animal not miss these) and night drives (avoid these, sightings and the sheer scope of its water- which are crowded, noisy and not really sui- stands still soaked, luxuriant rainforest. Danum Valley ted to the local environment—rainforests are covers an area of 438 square kilometres and made for walking). is currently managed by the Yayasan Sabah Visitors on the extensive rainforest canopy walk (above) and a view of the untouched primary Danum jungle (top right) 34 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

CLOCKWISE: Silver leaf monkey feeding at dawn; Perfectly camouflaged Borneo horned frog; A waterfall in the forest; Forest dragon lizard (male) on its perch; Jade tree frogs mating on a rainy night; A colorful Lantern bug (inset)

Fauna & flora with few equals Birds commonly observed number amphibians and most often Danum Valley is a world-famous desti- several species of Hornbills (including strange insects of all shapes nation for passionate birdwatchers, Rhinoceros and Helmeted), bee- and sizes, which are usually but its undisturbed, virgin, thick low- eaters, kingfishers, warblers, several quite hard to spot and which land rainforest is home to many other species of forest raptors and many are most easily observed animals including several large mam- others too numerous to mention here, during the guided night walks. mals, many beautiful reptiles and while among the many reptile and amphibians, and countless numbers amphibian species encountered the Rainforest Trekking of exceptionally attractive insects. impressive Reticulate python, at least Long day and night walks Mammals regularly sighted include two different species of Pit viper, the are the best options to fully wild Orangutans, gibbons, leaf mon- strikingly marked Paradise snake, the appreciate the Danum Valley keys, long-tailed and pig-tail maca- colorful Forest dragon lizard and the rainforest environment. Despite ques, wild bearded pigs, mouse deer amazingly well-camouflaged Borneo the apparent drawbacks and sambar deer. Lucky visitors may horned frog all deserve to be mentio- and discomforts—waking also occasionally encounter several ned. up at 5am, slogging in the species of wild cats (including the A lot of first-time visitors mud for hours on end, being “dream date” of South-East Asian to rainforests spend most literally drenched in sweat rainforests, the strikingly beautiful and of their time looking in the and very often even rainfall, incredibly elusive Clouded Leopard), distance and hoping for the the shy Bornean Pygmy elephant— large animals, but the most which is much more easily observed, interesting and fascinating deni- dealing with the occasional but however, along the Kinabatangan zens of this mysteriously beauti- messy leech bite—this is really river basin in the Sukau area—and ful environment are in fact the the only sensible way to enjoy even Malay Sun bears or Sumatran small, secretive, camouflaged the place and fully savour the rhinos (but do not count on the lat- inhabitants of the forest floor wonders it offers. ter!). and canopy: diminutive reptiles, Get yourself a private guide

35 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

LEFT TO RIGHT: A Red-phase Silver monkey feeding in forest canopy. Giant stick insect; Giant Rhinoceros beetle on tree trunk; Harlequin gliding frog

Most important of all, items to take along, too. enormous. We spent a whole week at the take a pair of good hiking Since we’re on the subject, do not let Borneo Rainforest Lodge, and we feel we ankle boots along. This is the local all-pervasive obsession and have barely scratched the surface. Every where synthetic, breatha- paranoia with leeches scare you—these few steps along the forest trails a new ble fabrics such as Cordura fascinating, small rubbery creatures (did diseases, such as malaria or dengue, are fascinating subject would be sighted, and are strongly recommen- you know they can survive with a single transmitted via the bite of these obno- it would not be uncommon for us to walk ded, since they’ll be con- feeding a year if needed?) are comple- xious little winged pests. a few hundred meters only, in more than stantly soaked, and boots tely harmless and do not transmit any three hours, especially at night. in natural materials such as diseases. If you get bitten by one you’ll Impressive environment To the attentive, careful observer and leather or canvas would feel no pain—maybe a little itching later Despite our lifelong experience in rainfo- thanks to its own specific nature, the rapidly rot or mould, often on—but you’ll certainly bleed freely and rests exploration and photography world- Danum Valley environment offers an uni- in a single night’s time. A massively for quite a few hours, as their wide, we could not help being deeply que chance—the possibility not only to sun hat and a rainproof saliva contains both an efficient anes- impressed, and in fact, even awed by the sight wild animals, but to pause at torch will be important thetic and a powerful anticoagulant. The beauty, richness and sheer isolation of length and leisure and watch them blood staining and trickling Danum Valley. This is a virgin, primordial, actually behave i.e. feed, hunt, mate. can look scary to the unini- occasionally demanding environment of This is a rare and precious gift, one which tiated, but it’s no big deal, steaming lush vegetation and glutinous has to be treasured, and Danum offers really. After a day’s trekking ankle-deep mud, of steep ravines and it generously to those willing to listen to from the Borneo Rainforest Lodge if at in the rainforest you’d have gurgling clear forest brooks, of gigantic the sounds of the forests or put their eye- all possible—as everywhere else it will to thoroughly wash your soi- buttress trees and coiled, climbing lianas, sight to good use. Add to this the deeply make the experience completely dif- led clothes anyway! perennially bathed in oppressive heat moving, emotional impact of the un- ferent—and bring cotton clothes only On the good side, and humidity. Incredibly violent down- touched rainforest habitat and the cre- (no artificial fibers!), with long trousers, Danum Valley is almost pours are sudden and frequent, and even ature comforts offered, at the end of long thick socks to tuck them into, and completely mosquito-free, when bathed in searing sunshine the a tiring day, by the beautiful Borneo long-sleeved shirts. Be aware that you’ll and that is really important whole environment is perennially immer- Rainforest Lodge. Whoever thought up be drenched most of time_in your own since most serious tropical sed in a prehistoric, Jurassic Park-like the open-air bathtubs on the wooden sweat and/or rainfall—so it makes no atmosphere. chalet balconies facing the rainforest and sense trying to keep dry at all costs with View from the bathtub- Animal sightings are surprisingly frequent the river was a genius. You will understand nylon ponchos or raincoats, which also equipped balcony of the and near for a rainforest habitat, and why we have fallen in love with Danum rapidly become unbearabbly suffoca- exclusive Borneo Rainforest photographic opportunities for profes- Valley, and why we cannot wait to go ting in the heat. Lodge overlooking the sionals and serious amateurs are simply back there—this time, for a longer stay! ■ Danum River

36 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED silver

www.seacam.com Revisited

Sipadan38 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED peter symes travel Sabah

peter symes

peter symes One of the ubiquitous green turtles taking a good snooze on the reef of Sipadan Island. PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver and cloud of trevally

Text and photos by The list of sightseeing attractions and by get from a airport transfers, hotel Peter Symes and Tim Hochgrebe activities seem inexhaustible. Aptly stays and excursions is anything to go by. named “the land below the wind” not This time, we arrived at a new airport I’ve always been both some- only because it is bypassed by the dev- in Tawau—arriving at the old airport did what envious and intrigued by astating typhoons that occasionally rav- feel like touching down on a couple of age other tropical paradises, but also tennis courts—and the roads here are what Sabah, Malaysian’s east- because, for modern fast-paced execu- now in a much better state. Modern sub- ernmost state have to offer the tives, it is a soothing escape from the big urban residential complexes are gradual- travelling visitor. Great diving city hustle and bustle. ly replacing the ramshackle shantytown of course, but the richness and Upon arrival, the provincial tranquil- of many areas we passed by. Malaysia lity and smaller scale of things in Sabah is only 52 years old as a nation, but the diversity of the abundant top- instills a sense of coming to a safe and determination with which they build their side natural resources such as calm place, which seems to go about society never ceases to impress me, and rainforest and mountain ranges, matters in its own time and direction, returning here after so many years made history and the cultural diversity unperturbed by unrest elsewhere on the the many changes stand out... but were globe. And Sabah has indeed come a they all for the better? is something that few regions long way in a short period of time, if the We were greeted in Tawau airport by peter symes can match. few glimpses these undersigned passers- Clement Lee, CEO of Borneo Divers and Divers and schooling barracuda at Sipadan Island 39 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Tomato grouper Mantis shrimps, which aren’t shrimps, are aggressive and typical- peeks out. They ly solitary sea creatures, spend most of their time hiding in rock are usually formations in which they either wait for prey to chance upon solitary them or, unlike most crustaceans, actually hunt, chase and kill Sabah travel living prey. Mantis shrimp sport powerful claws that they use to attack and kill prey by spearing, stunning or dismemberment

tions 25 years ago. to none. Sipadan was in my previous visit. During most of our 50-minute transfer Island, considered Every day we saw massive to Sandakan, we drove by seemingly by many to be the schools of barracudas, treval- endless stretches of oil palm plantations, best dive site on the lies and even humphead which seem to have pushed the rain- planet, is but a short parrotfish. There were always forest back into the distant horizon. boat transfer away to many small sharks—predom- Sandakan, once a sleepy fishing vil- the south. Mabul itself inantly the ubiquitous white lage and our point of departure for is one of the birth- tip sharks— patrol- the boat transfer to Mabul, now places of muck-div- ling the reefs or seems like a bustling town. ing, and with Kapalai napping on the As we enjoyed a smooth ride nearby, there’s also sandy patches. in a high speed boat skimming unparalleled macro- Looking around, across the surface of the sea, diving. Plus, close to umpteen turtles were I couldn’t help pondering the mainland, you peter symes all over the place. As a how life must be like living can dive in the man- diver peers up from the in some of the rickety huts groves. resort facilities there. Tight regulations sea floor, on can see on stilts we passed—which But even with this diversity, it is prob- were imposed on the number of permit- the turtles as have no fresh water or ably safe to say that Sipadan remains the ted day visitors, the management of silhouettes sanitation, let alone coveted star attraction, which pulls visi- which still remains a very conten- electricity—sitting way tors from far and wide. tious issue between the opera- out there on the horizon As such, the island has been and tors who are all vying for a

symes in the middle of what remains the centre of much controversy. number of guest permits that is seemed to be the open It was the center of a lengthy battle woefully short of the grow- symes peter

chairman ocean, but must have been between Indonesia and Malaysia, who ing demand. peter of Sabah Tourism. built on extensive mud flats and sand- vied for sovereignty over the island at the What I have seen over After exchanging courtesies and the ritu- bars. international court in Hague, which only the years there leaves no al “did you have a nice flight?” we soon in 2002, ruled in favour of Malaysia. doubt in my mind that drifted into a discussion about the devel- Diving As the island’s ecosystem is fragile, the these measures were neces- opment the region has been undergoing The range of options on offer within a many concerns over the impact of tour- sary. Sipadan seems to be in Juvenile zebra lionish since Lee came to start his dive opera- short radius from Mabul Island is second ism later led to clearing the island of the a much better state now than it BELOW: Sipadan Island

peter symes 40 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah LEFT: Juvenile spotted sweetlips takes cover. FAR LEFT: The man- grove forests just off Semporna offers a completely different yet underappreciated

tim hochgrebe habitat

peter symes

Butterflyfish were every- where hochgrebe tim against the water’s surface gliding gracefully along the reefs like soaring birds in the sky eclipsing the sun, or plainly snoozing in some crevice on the reef like hung-over teenagers on Sunday morning, totally unaffected by all the wheezing, bubbling visitors tim hochgrebe closing in to take snapshots with their Plenty of grey sharks were patrolling the drop offs along Sipadan underwater cameras. There are about 13 dive sites one had been building up nitrogen on a windy day. One of my per- around Sipadan. When the ocean over the day, and so, there were sonal favourites remains Barracuda is calm, it takes about 20 minutes to decompression issues to consider. Point. I know, it has been covered get from Mabul to Sipadan. Most of But hey, it’s a bit like complaining ad nauseam in so many publica- the diving in Sipadan is a combina- about being fed too much caviar tions before—including this one— tion of wall and drift diving. The vis- and champagne. Sipadan is one but it is not without merit. Here, you ibility was never really great during of those blessed places where you always seem to be able to find a the week we spent there—partly seemingly can’t have a bad time huge school of circling barracudas due to a couple of days of choppy even if you try. seas that stirred up particles—but Here, disappoint- because there was always so much ment is if you peter symes to see, we never really noticed, or only see a small ABOVE: At the aptly least, it never became a concern. school of fish and named Barracuda As the day guest permit system a couple of sea Point, giant schools worked during our visit, the defining turtles. of barracudas measure of the permit was ‘a day’ Because of its never let us down not the number of dives permitted. relatively small LEFT: A juvenile scor- Consequently, the excursions to size and it hav- pionfish, perhaps Sipadan were conducted as full day ing dive sites all Poss’s Scorpionfish, outings with four dives and a lunch the way around blending into the break in the middle. its perimeter, it sand FAR LEFT: One At times, I felt that this regime was is always pos- of the species I a little too rigorous, as the forth dive sible to find a never tire of seing; in a day often was of limited quality sheltered spot on the ornate Ghost and use, among other things, since the leeward side peter symes Pipefish peter symes 41 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A tiny translucent coral shrimp of the Periclemens travel species Sabah a snack at the gazebo, which is rangers overseeing and enforc- trips to Sipadan may built on the island. It is also here ing the protection measures, outstrip supply by we have lunch after the second including keeping fishermen and up to a factor of dive. The authorities have also poachers off the island. five to ten. built a proper toilet hochgrebe facility on the island. tim Fresh water is supplied by boat every day and A pumped ashore—a cuttle- fish came out to reassuring sign that the investigate us bubbling crea- facilities aren’t draw- tures with tanks on our backs ing on the small aquifer under the island. fourth consecutive dive often peter symes Aside from the area During peak ends up being so and so, if you around jetty, the periods, vaca- are not the type who’s itching for or trevallies, which, if you move too soon, and like a five-year- gazebo and the toilet tioners who may having yet another dive logged carefully, can end up completely old in an amusement park, I am facilities, the rest of the come from afar in the book. Why not make it 2 encircling you. I get such of kick always left wanting more when island is now off limits could, in a worse x 240 half day permits, so twice out of this—flying in formation time is up. for visitors, though there case scenario, as many may have a chance of inside a huge school of fish as if I Between dives, the boat goes is a residing contingent end up finding going? The load on the island will am one of them. It always ends back to the jetty, and we have of soldiers and park themselves going be the same, or even less, as half to Sipadan only day visitors will probably not have once. Curbing the their lunch there. number of visitors In any case, when booking a to Sipadan has trip to the area, pay close atten- been essential to tion to the regulations and advice protect the fragile given on the various home pages island from being and ask how many dives to unsustainably Sipadan can be pre-booked or exploited­­— let guaranteed. peter symes there be no doubt There is also an interesting Wax and polish, Sir? Honeycomb Moray Eel at a about that— but almost perverse twist to the cleaning station enjoys the services of attending but the way the arrangement as well: many of hinge-beak shrimp, giving it the royal treatment while permit system is the resorts are allotted the same bar-gill cardinalfish seem to be looking on with envy currently set up number of day permits, just 14. leaves room for So if you go for the big upscale Permit controversy further improvement. What springs resort accommodating up to As this issue goes to press, the to mind is whether each granted 100 guests, which may be well current system of day permits visitor really needs or want to go booked, you could end up hav- allows for 120 day visitors—no there for the full ing far worse odds of going to overnight stays are allowed day and have Sipadan than anymore. With about 15 four dives each, if you resorts each accommo- as the stay dating some 30-100 guests, with many of which have come here to dive Sipadan in particular, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out that demand for day

Our good friend and colleague Tim Hochgrebe from Underwater.com.au Giant Trevally peter symes lives out his inner paparazzi tim hochgrebe 42 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

peter symes

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Humphead parrotfish are best encoun- tered in the mornings; Scorpionfish are masters of camouflage; Batfish are found everywhere; A couple of yellow shrimp gobies peek out of the burrow in the coral gravel. They usually share their burrow with one or more alpheid shrimp; Sipadan Island park ranger feeds the neighborhood lizard peter symes

crocodile fish and Diving Kapalai away from Sipadan than Mabul, plenty of groupers. It is not really an island but a but still within easy reach and the That was quite a sandbar. If not for the resort bal- muck dive sites around the resort parade. ancing on its stilts on top of the are excellent. A number of artifi- Around these parts shoal, one wouldn’t know it was cial reefs have been established there is rarely a need there except during low tide. around the to move far and most Like Mabul, this location is full of sand banks likely you will find your- small critters: nudibranchs, gobies, of Kapalai self covering an area crabs and what not. A once including no bigger than the resident biologist explained that a few size of a tennis court these islands, which offers shel- ship- during a typical dive. tered shallow bays, act as nurser- Most of your time will ies for a wide range of species. probably be spent There’s mostly sandy bottom, or kneeling on a patch coarse coral gravel, with only few of sand in front of a coral heads. At first sight, it comes peter symes coral block observing across very unassuming—that is, the myriad of small until you catch a glimpse of tion all day long and dive at your and big sea life going about their your first blue ringed octo- leisure. Once upon a time, while daily business. pus, frogfish or ghost peter symes staying at Sipadan Water Village, The reef slopes down at about pipefish. I spotted my very first ghost pipe- 45 degrees just off the jetty before Kapalai is a the small economy-range resort, dive boat. Most of the diving off fish right under their jetty. it levels off into the sandy plateau little bit fur- which can accommodate only 25 Mabul and Kapalai is quite shal- Diving right off Borneo Diver’s surrounding the island at around ther guests. low with depths usually ranging jetty also produced one great 18m. The southern side of Mabul from 5 to 20 meters (15 to 60 encounter after another. On our is fringed by a large sandy Diving Mabul feet). first dive, we came across schools plateau, and the dive There are about 17 dive sites off These places are macro heav- of small barracudas, trumpetfish, sites here are only Mabul and about 13 dive sites en on earth. In fact, most of the several snoozing turtles, shrimp reached by a off Kapalai. Most of the dive sites house reefs are excellent, so you gobies, a couple of harlequin short boat Perhaps it is no wonder can be reached from any of the can often pretty much just base shrimp, different nudibranchs, ride. this fellah on Sipadan resorts in less than 15 minutes by yourself at the resort’s dive sta- a paper frogfish, an octopus, a has gotten so potbellied

peter symes 43 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Another pretty nudi below the resort of Kapalai (far left); Cuttlefish scooting around on the housereef (left); Decorated scal- Sabah travel lop shows its eyes (below)

tim hochgrebe

tim hochgrebe

peter symes tim hochgrebe

A turlte skeleton (above) lays insde the turtle tim hochgrebe cavern; The remains of a dolphin rests on a Spearing Mantis Shrimp (above) ready to ledge inside the cavern (top) Warning at the attack; Chromodoris nudibranch (left) entrance of turlte cavern (inset) tim hochgrebe

towards the end of the day, manda- addition of several other resorts, which pro- rinfish can be seen performing their trude out from the island, has caused the mating dances just below the water’s place to lose a bit of its magic and its sense surface. Unfortunately, the Flamboyant of luxurious remoteness, which was part of Cuttlefish did not want to show itself to the island’s ambience before. And in this me, which just means there has to be regard, whomever is the responsible author- a revisit of this area in the not too dis- ity overseeing the local development should tant future. fare very cautiously in regards to permitting tim hochgrebe further construction on the island. The island is wrecks and what seems to be an old com- Development of Mabul still a paradise to visit but with more visitors it munications tower. The reefs around Kapalai Revisiting the island, it was clear that the would become too busy­—who wants to trav- are generally very shallow, but there is some place has undergone a marked develop- el half way around the world to have a view excellent diving, especially if you are into ment with the resorts now having a bigger of other tourists? This was a sentiment that hunting for the more elusive critters; Yawfish presence. They now dominate the outline was also reflected by several of the opera- with eggs in their mouths, spearing man- of the island. As in so many other places, tors and staff we spoke to during our stay. tis shrimps, big cuttlefish and some excel- progress can be both good and bad. Being the investigative journalists that we lent nudibranch action. At Mandarin Valley From a tourist’s viewpoint, we felt that the are, we also wanted to know what effect

peter symes 44 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tanzania

45 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 peter symes EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sipadan Water Village has also expanded over the years. CENTER: Borneo travel Divers Bunglaw Sabah

reef table, so you can with lockers, showers, toilet and look right down at fish a common area for resting and what not. It has a between dives with complimen- special feeling. As some tary snacks, hot coffee and tea. of the chalets face And from this year onwards, you towards the island, ask can also go kayaking in transpar- if any of the oceanside ent rental kayaks. bungalows are avail- peter symes able. That is, if you’re Kapalai the type who likes day- Kapalai is probably the most dreaming while gaz- luxurious of the available accom- ing out oat the open modation options we have visited ocean. around Sipadan. Once a veg- The resort has now etated tropical island, Kapalai grown to 45 chalets is now no more than a sand bar peter symes built in the local style. with a resort built on top. So, if you

tourism had on the local com- a discrete limousine. It is an all- munity and how the villagers took inclusive resort, which means that the presence of the resorts and all meals and diving is included. all the guests on the island. Many Alcohol and indulgences, such as stated that the number of new the awesome massages we got jobs in the hospitality and con- addicted to, are extras. Meals struction sectors provided them are served buffet style with cui- with good livelihoods. As it turned sine including both Eastern and out, many of the resort staff were Western fare, so each meal satis- recruited from the island. Walking fies most pallets. around on the island, the locals The diving station sits at the seemed very friendly and wel- end of the jetty, and from here, coming, with a lot of goofy kids there is direct access to a splen- happily posing for photographs. did house reef. There is also a lit- tle coffee bar, so one can easily Accommodation spend all day just hanging out Here are descriptions of six of the on the pier. There is also a room 11 resorts found on Mabul Island. for photographers with tables peter symes peter symes and recharging stations. For boat Borneo Divers dives, you sign up on the plan- The chalets have large slide doors like to feel the sand beneath your Traditional dancers perform a wedding dance unique to Mabul villlage; The resort sits on the island itself ning board, after which the staff that open onto a spacious out- feet when staying on a remote Entrance to Borneo Divers lounge and restaurant in contrast to some of the other will bring your kit to the boat and side deck. Meals served in buf- tropical island, this might not be nearby resorts that are construct- mount your kit on a tank. fet style featuring a mixture of for you. However, the resort fea- ocean is that it is safe from mos- stilts off the northern coastline of ed as water villages with bunga- local and continental cuisine are tures luxurious rooms with fantas- quitos, and you can leave your Mabul. The industrial construction lows on stilts over the water. With Sipadan Water Village (SWV) served thee times a day in an tic views over clean blue water, doors and windows wide open. is a bit of an eyesore, which one 30 bungalows, which are now all SWV was the first water village open air restaurant with a seating and for most people, staying in a tries not to notice when enjoying deluxe and arranged around a resort on the island. Guests reside capacity of 150 people at one water resort is a very special and Seaventures the otherwise pristine view from garden with a pool, the resort is in comfortable chalets with patios time. exciting experience. Of course, If money is tight, you might con- Mabul over Borneo. very comfortable and luxurious in that not only overlook the open The dive centre opens from 7:00 one of the additional advantages sider Seaventures—a small former Going over there was an intrigu- a low-profile manner, much like ocean, but also sit right on the am onwards and is equipped of a resort in the middle of the drilling platform that now sits on ing experience through. For one,

Borneo Divers Mabul Sipadan Water Village Sipadan-Kapalai Resort Sipadan-Mabul Resort SMART <<< Check out the videos from the resorts 46 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Seaventures ‘s platfom sits a couple of hun- dred meters off Sabah travel Mabul

painful,” but I was soon forced to eat my own words. They were real- ly good, and I thoroughly enjoyed their performance of skillfully impro- vised classic rock ballads and lyri-

symes cal classics. The various vocalists had good voices, the drummer peter was an artist with his sticks, and Seaventures is the most economical of the resorts the guitarist could jam like there visited was no tomorrow. In fact, I wasn’t ready to go, when the elevator our boat came that takes one to take us back up to the main to our residence platform is also on Mabul. I had a used to lower great evening, but divers all the the accommoda- peter symes tim hochgrebe way down until tion was not really they are chest- to my liking. high in the Under the plat- water. We were form is an artificial having drinks reef, which is now on the platform one of listed dive when two divers sites around Mabul. went for a night peter symes Part of it is really dive under the The stangest thing.... divers going down with the just some old junk platform and elevatior straight into the water for a night dive upon which a lot just took the lift under Seaventures platform of marine life has down into pitch taken up residence, darkness and disappeared. but various other constructed structures The platform is spacious and has have been added to create a little park plenty of rooms for various activities. under and around the platform. The cabins are… well, cabins, and not really hotel rooms, which makes you feel Sipadan-Mabul Resort (SMART) like you are overnighting on a moored & The Mabul Water Bungalows vessel—a feeling enhanced by the fuel These resorts are really two complexes smells, one usually finds on ships and fer- under the same management. There The house band ries, wafting through the corridors. is the old complex, SMART, which sits of Dive Masters It definitely came across as a place under the shady palms on the southern on Seaventures predominantly for the younger (and side of the island overlooking a wide were surprisingly probably less affluent) crowd who prefer sandy beach, and the new and upscale good and knew to pay less for a fun and festive, uncon- Mabul Water Bungalows complex, peter symes their classic rock ventional time, rather than spend lots of which sits out on the reef opposite and Mabul Water Bungalow is a new floating dive resort wholly owned by Sipadan-Mabul Resort, ballads. It was a Sabah (SMART) skillful and nos- money on upscale décor. There was a adjacent to SWV. The two complexes talgic perform- party and lots of laughter going on the are interconnected by a winding path- ance deck. Then, as a surprise, the house rock way upon which an electrical vehicle which comes with private bathroom- ous and opulent. The resort also has an band of dive masters set up their gear (like a golf cart) offers transports for hot/cold shower and toilet, spacious elegant upscale spa. There is an inhouse to play. stroll-weary Westerners. private balcony offering panoramic photo facility, and the large and airy Admittedly, my first and spontaneous The interiors of the 14 bungalows of vistas of blue sea, colour TV with satel- restaurant for dining looks directly out thought was, “Uh oh, this is going to be The Mabul Water Bungalows—each of lite channels, and mini bar—are luxuri- over the reef ledge. As with the other

peter symes 47 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

“I don’t want to see another turtle” — Sipadan diver There are so many sea turtles now, they bump into you hochgrebe tim

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The seas and reefs around Sipadan and Mabul islands are a paradise for sea turtles; Local support is enthusiastic as Sipadan Island is recognized as a contestant in the competition to become one of the seven underwater wonders of the world; Fresh water is now being brought to Sipadan by boat thus protecting its fragile aquifer from overuse peter symes

resorts of Mabul, there is an excellent a private en-suite offering free-flowing tect Sipadan—which clearly looks a bit long as they are content with playing well as the diverse cultural attractions. house reef right in front of the complex. hot and cold fresh water and a front better since our last visit—though the in the pool, or on the beach, and enjoy And don’t forget, the cities and towns of The SMART resort consists of 45 wooden patio. The SMART resort is clearly more present permit quota system has its draw- a relaxed holiday, they will be fine. The Malaysia offer great shopping opportuni- duplex chalets with each room featur- economical than The Mabul Water backs and probably could be improved. diving ranges from snorkelling to techni- ties, especially if your visit coincides with ing two oversized single beds, a couch, Bungalows—which is reflected in their Mabul is still a romantic get-away, but cal diving, though it would be a stretch their annual grand sale. Consider pack- shelves, ceiling fan and air-conditioning, respective rates. SMART is more mid- we were also left a bit sentimental, miss- to call it a technical dive destination per ing your suitcases only half full to save dle of the road. It ing the former aura of remote exclusivity se. It seems fair to say that there are a room for goodies. ■ doesn’t provide it once had. Any further addition to the couple of opportunities to quite the same level number of resorts on the island would be do technical diving through of luxury, but it is one too many and topple the island’s the SMART resort. cool and comfort- native flavor. It would become some- The main feature is defi- able. In addition, thing of a Riviera with a village added— nitely the underwater realm SMART also offers which would be an absolute shame. in the form of the amaz- technical diving with Fortunately, the locals are aware of it. ing congregations of life basic nitrox mixes around Sipadan as well as up to 40 percent, as Verdict and the seemingly inexhaustible well as advanced recommendations amounts of macro-life virtu- decompression and Sabah has got something for every-one. ally at the doorstep of your rebreather mixes up Over the years, it seems to have devel- bungalow. The resorts hold to 100 percent oxy- oped from something of a frontier where high standards, and the gen. you only went with an avid dive buddy food is good. Diving aside, to a place where you can also bring it would be a shame not to The future your family—or just have a romantic get- underline the rich variety of Essential steps have away for two. There are not really facili- topside features from the been taken to pro- ties for smaller children on Mabul, but as jungle to the mountains as peter symes 48 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Why do barracudas form schools?

A mean looking giant barracuda has a cleaner wrasse under its chin Text and photos by Peter Symes

Barracudas occur both singly and in schools around reefs, but also appear in open seas. access Adults of most barracuda to a species are more or less more solitary in their habits, while favourable hunting young and half-grown fish position and/or are in a more frequently congregate in protected position against schools. potential predators. Schooling large in fish may be determined Large schools of barracu- chunks. by sex differences in size and das are associated with morphology. It is possible that offshore seamounts, deep Although aggregations females form the core of the canyons and small islets and of barracuda were always school and males aggregate dominated by big individuals associated to areas subjected to them for obvious mating when a feeding opportunity to strong currents, its speed is advantages. appears. The reasons for such unlikely to cause aggregating aggregations are probably behaviour. Although typically While barracudas sometimes resting aggregations, pre- associated with particular sites follow snorkelers and scuba spawning aggregations, anti- and current flow, group forma- divers across the reef, there predatory advantage and tion may also be influenced exist no substantiated reports foraging advantage. In fact, by factors such as social facili- of unprovoked attacks. Known group foraging has an obvi- tation, prey availability, and incidents generally involve ous advantage since predators behavioural tradition. spearfishing or hand feed- acting together can more eas- ing, and these incidents are ily restrict the movements of a Large summer schools appear extremely rare, especially con- school of prey fish than when to be strongly size and sex seg- sidering the number of times they are alone. regated, because the large that barracudas and humans females tend to aggregate at encounter one another. ■ Barracuda prey primarily on the bottom of the school. This Source: fish, sometimes as large as they maybe due to the fact that Barreiros, Santos & Borba, Cybium 2002, 26(2): 83-88 are themselves by shearing off females, being larger, have

49 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Location of Sabah, Malaysia, Healthy foreign exchange Buddhist 19.2%, on global map reserves are maintained Christian 9.1%, Hindu BELOW: Location of by the central bank. A 6.3%, Confucianism, Sipadan Island on regulatory regime has Taoism, other tra- fact file map of Malaysia help Malaysia avoid ditional Chinese Malaysia exposure to riskier religions 2.6% (2000 TOP RIGHT: The trevally’s financial instruments census). Internet muscular appearence as well as the glo- users: 15.868 mil- and alert movements bal financial crisis. lion (2007) reminds one of an Although the econo- athlete in top shape mic downturn in 2009 Travel advi- sources: US cia world fact book, is expected to hurt sory Take care SCUBADOC.COM economic growth and be cautious when boating. The with the decrease in International Maritime Bureau reports History Great Britain established colo- Economy Malaysia is a middle-income of domes- demand for consumer there is a hight risk for piracy and armed nies and protectorates in the area of country. Since the 1970’s, it has transfor- tic gasoline goods worldwide. Natural robbery against ships in the territorial and current Malaysia during the late 18th med itself from a producer of raw mate- and diesel fuel resources: tin, petroleum, offshore waters in the Strait of Malacca and 19th centuries. Japan occupied rials to an emerging multi-sector eco- has forced Kuala timber, copper, iron ore, and South China Sea. Make sure your these areas from 1942 to 1945. The British- nomy. By attracting investments in high Lumpur to reduce natural gas, bauxitel. Agriculture transfers are managed by the dive ruled territories on the Malay Peninsula technology industries, medical techno- government subsidies. in Sabah: subsistence crops, rubber, resort. formed the Federation of Malaya in 1948. logy, and pharmaceuticals, former Prime In 2005, the country released timber, coconuts, rice, logging, petro- In 1957, it became independent. When Minister Abdullah, who came into office the ringgit from the US dollar which led leum production Language Bahasa Malaysia (official), the former British colonies of Singapore in 2003, attempted to move the eco- to its currency appreciating 6% per year English, Chinese (Cantonese, Mandarin, and the East Malaysian states of Sabah nomy toward a higher level in the value- against the dollar during 2006-08. It hel- Climate Tropical. Monsoons are annu- Hokkien, Hakka, Hainan, Foochow), Tamil, and Sarawak on the northern coast of added production chain. The govern- ped hold down import prices but inflatio- al in the southwest (April to October) Telugu, Malayalam, Panjabi, Thai. There Borneo joined the Federation in 1963, ment continues to help boost domestic nary pressures increased 2007. Inflation and the northeast (October to February). are several indigenous languages in East Malaysia was formed. The new nation demand and wean the economy off stood at nearly 6%, year-over-year by Natural hazards include flooding, land- Malaysia; Iban and Kadazan are most faced faced challenges in its first sev- of its dependence on exports. Despite 2008. A five-year national development slides and forest fires. widely spoken eral years including a Communist insur- these efforts, exports, especially elec- agenda was presented by the govern- gency, Singapore’s secession from the tronics, are still a significant force in the ment in April 2006 at which time Abdullah Environmental issues Air pollution Health There is a high degree of risk for Federation in 1965, Indonesian confron- economy. The country exports oil and unveiled a series of far-reaching devel- from vehicular and industrial emissions; food or waterborne diseases, such as bac- tation, and Philippine claims to Sabah. gas and has profited from higher world opment plans for several regions needing smoke/haze from Indonesian forest fires; terial diarrhea, and vectorborne diseases, However, Malaysia was successful in energy prices. However, the rising cost help in attracting business investment. water pollution from raw sewage; defor- such as dengue fever and malaria. There diversifying its economy from depend- estation. is a neglible risk of contracting the highly ence on exports of raw materials to VIETNAM pathogenic H5N1 avian influenza, which expansion in manufacturing, services, PHILIPPINES has been identified in Malaysia, although Gulf of Currency and tourism during the 22-year term of SPRATLY Ringgits (MYR) there are extremely rare cases among US THAILAND Thailand ISLANDS Sulu Prime Minister Mahathir bin Mohamad Sea Exchange rates: citizens who are in close contact with birds (1981-2003). Government: constitutional Kudat 1EUR=5.13MYR; (2009) monarchy. Capital: Kuala Lumpur Kota 1USD=3.50MYR; Baharu Kota 1GBP=5.77; Recompression Chamber Pulau Kinabalu Sandakan Geography Malaysia is located in Pinang Kuala South China Sea Gunung 1AUD= 3.02MYR; MABUL ISLAND Terengganu Pulau Labuan Kinabalu southeastern Asia. It includes the penin- George Lahad Datu 1SGD=2.46MYR Borneo Divers has an onsite recompres- sula that borders Thailand and the north- Town Taiping BRUNEI Sabah sion chamber with trained hyperbaric Ipoh ern one-third of the island of Borneo, Miri Tawau Sipadan Population technicians on call 24 hours per day. Lumut which borders Indonesia, Brunei, and KUALA Kuantan 25,715,819 (July www.borneodivers.info Strait of Pulau the South China Sea, south of Vietnam. Malacca LUMPUR Ligitan 2009 est.) Ethnic Bintulu Coastline: 4,675 km. Terrain: coastal Klang Seremban groups: Malay Links Celebes plains that rise to hills and mountains. Port Dickson 50.4%, Chinese Tourism Malaysia Sibu Sarawak Lowest point: Indian Ocean 0 m. Highest Melaka Johor Kuching 23.7%, indigenous tourismmalaysiausa.com BORNEO Sea point: Gunung Kinabalu 4,100 m. Note: Bahru 11%, Indian 7.1%, Sabah Tourism Malaysia lies in a strategic location along SINGAPORE others 7.8% (2004 www.sabahtourism.com the Strait of Malacca and the southern est.). Religions: Borneo Divers INDONESIA Equator INDONESIA end of the South China Sea. Muslim 60.4%, www.borneodivers.info ■

50 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED