Translated and Edited by Master´S Students of WEM IV University of Groningen M M X V I I

Translated and edited by Master´s students of WEM IV University of Groningen M M X V I I

Johan Meerman

Some Messages Concerning Great Britain and Ireland

Translated and edited by WEM 4 Class of 2017

University of Groningen, Oude Boteringestraat 44 9700 AB, Groningen PO Box 72 Tel: +31 50 363 9111

Original name: Eenige Berichten omtrent Groot-Britannien en Ierland “ri)inally published by J. van ;lee(, s Graavenhaa)e 1787 Author: Johan Meerman Translated into English by WEM 4 class of 2017 (RUG)

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the authors.

All pictures used in this volume have been appropriately cited and were either in the public domain, free to use for educational purposes, or permission was asked. If there remain any pictures for which you feel you hold the rights, please let us know by contacting [email protected]. Table of Contents

Preface ...... v List of Abbreviations ...... vii List of Illustrations ...... viii

Introduction ...... ix Johan Meerman ...... xi Print history of Eenige Berichten Omtrent Groot- Britannien en Ierland ...... xiv Historical Context ...... xvii The Kingdom of Ireland and Protestant Ascendancy .. xviii The Kingdom of Scotland – The Capitals, Highlands and Jacobite Rising of 1745 ...... xx British Parliament and State of Affairs in the Eighteenth Century ...... xxiii English Cities in the Eighteenth Century ...... xxvi The Travellers, Their Destinations, and Their Audiences ...... xxix Travel Writing and Its Conventions ...... xxxiii

Some Messages Concerning Great Britain and Ireland ...... 1 Dedication ...... 3 Foreword ...... 5

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England: Part One The Country ...... 9 England: Part Two The Inhabitants ...... 65 England: Part Three The Government ...... 201 Scotland ...... 269 Ireland ...... 335

Glossary ...... 386 Bibliography ...... 390 Print Sources ...... 390 Web Sources ...... 392 Maps and Illustrations...... 397 Index ...... 399

About the Course WEM 4 ...... 412

Preface

Finally, a good 200 years after its initial publication, here before you lies the first English translation of Johan ‘eermans account of his travels through England, Scotland, and Ireland. For our ‘asters de)ree pro)ramme in Writin), Editing and Mediating at the University of Groningen, it was the goal of this course to translate and produce an English edition o( ‘eermans Eenige Berichten Omtrent Groot- Britannien en Ierland. This book is the result of four months of tireless toiling and invigorating discussions on the finer points of translating and editing. Naturally, some difficult choices had to be made regarding the source material and our translation thereof. Meerman was a classically trained eighteenth-century intellectual and his writing style reflects this. As modern English generally neither employs the convoluted sentence structure Meerman used in his original, nor accepts his lengthy Latinate sentences, we chose to significantly modernise his syntax. However, in order to offer you an authentic reading experience, most of the original foreign words were retained, unless they have since become a part of the English language. Moreover, we also omitted ‘eermans translations o( En)lish terms into Dutch to avoid repetition. Additionally, eighteenth-century political and cultural sensibilities are maintained in our translation. Consequently, the text contains opinions and words which may not be politically correct today. Thus, we implore you to keep in mind that these are not the translators and editors ideas but

v those of the author and that these sensibilities have significantly changed in the past centuries. Due to the time constraints inherent in the set-up of this project and because this product was a joint effort of twenty people, there remain some slight differences in style of translating and writing. We have endeavoured to keep these to a minimum by setting strict rules on style and by having a smaller group do the final edit. We would like to thank Dr Dekker and Dr Hoag for their guidance and their help throughout the project. We are also grateful for this unique opportunity to show our capabilities. By offering this English edition o( ‘eermans work to the public, we hope it sparks new interest in Johan ‘eermans work outside of the Netherlands. Similarly, we hope that you will enjoy our edition of his text.

WEM 4 CLASS OF 2017 Groningen, June 2017

List of Abbreviations

E Encyclo.nl

EB Encyclopedia Britannica

GTB Geïntegreerde Taalbank

L Larousse

OED Oxford English Dictionary

In instances where these abbreviations are used, they refer to the article of the annotated term, if not indicated otherwise.

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List of Illustrations

1. Portrait of Johan Meerman by Willem van Senus (1817) From Wikipedia, public domain. 2. Jacobite uprising of 1745, final battle at Culloden in 1746. From Wikipedia, public domain. 3. Dublin ca. 1831 (from Phoenix Park) by George Petrie. Wright, G.N. Ireland Illustrated, from Original Drawings. London, 1831. 4. George III by Allan Ramsay. (1762) From Wikipedia, public domain. 5. William Pitt the Younger (ca. 1787) From Wikipedia, public domain. 6. Grand tour - British Connaisseurs in Rome Ölgemälde von James Russel (1750) From Wikipedia, public domain 7. Dover castle. 19Th century drawing from The castellated and domestic architecture of Scotland from the twelfth to the eighteenth century (1887) Public domain. 8. Map of England, marked with places Meerman mentions in England: Part One 9. Map of England, marked with places Meerman mentions in England: Part Two 10. Map of England, marked with places Meerman mentions in England: Part Three 11. Map of Scotland, marked with places Meerman mentions in Scotland 12. Map of Ireland, marked with places Meerman mentions in Ireland

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Introduction

JOHAN MEERMAN

Fig. 1: Portrait of Johan Meerman

INTRODUCTION

Johan Meerman

Son of Gerard Meerman and Maria Catharina Buys, Johan Meerman (The Hague, 1753-1815) was a travelling bibliophile, politician and author. He was raised in a family of regents and Ministers which allowed him to be educated at the Latin School of Rotterdam (Van den Burg), as it was only accessible to boys from the middle and upper classes. There, Meerman was taught writing, history and eloquence, all in the Latin language (Beter Onderwijs Nederland). This education is a possible explanation (or ‘eermans overly Latinate style o( writing. He was educated in Dutch and French, and later also in Latin and Greek, by the most educated teachers. He excelled at his studies and eventually passed with honours (Te Water 6). At the age of ten and with the help from his grandfather, Meerman printed one edition of his translation o( ‘olieres comedy Le mariage forcé as a surprise for his parents (Van Heel 39). This spectacular gift does not merely show Johans love (or his parents, but it also indicates a deep love for and keen interest in books and languages. Meerman explored these passions further in his later education. After his time at the Latin School of Rotterdam, Meerman received private education in the Netherlands between the years 1764-1767. After this, he left for Germany with his governor to pursue further education at the University of Leipzig where he studied History, Greek and Latin Literature, Ancient Studies, Rhetoric, and Philosophy. After two years, he returned home to his parents, although he soon left again to continue his education at the University of

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Göttingen. He remained in Göttingen for about two years and followed courses by Christian Gottlob Heyne, a scholar of Greek and Roman sculpture, and early professor of Archaeology and Ancient History. These were the classes which (urther developed ‘eermans knowled)e o( ancient history and their arts. This familiarity will become apparent throughout this volume; he seems especially fond of buildings designed by Robert Adam. This fondness is unsurprising, as Adam was a neoclassical architect and would therefore have designed buildings in a style reminiscent of the classical style Meerman had become so intimately familiar with. Over the years, Meerman also developed an awareness of the cultural relations between the Dutch Republic and other countries. Because of his love of travel, Meerman had been exposed to a considerable amount of high-culture in his youth. Later, he would write that travel belon)ed to the ;ivil or Government “bli)ations qtd. in Van Heel 55. In other words, Meerman believed that travel is important to personal development. However, ‘eermans interests did not stop at lan)ua)es and culture. Having grown up in a family of regents had also made Meerman a convinced Orangist, who considered it vital that a prince of “ran)e serves as national Stadtholder as a check on the re)ents )overnment Reinders 12. Meerman desperately wanted to pursue a career in government himself but, due to periods of republican sentiment in the Dutch Republic in the 1780s and 1790s, was forced to put these plans on hold. He did manage to secure a position for himself on the city council of Leiden in 1788, from which he was ousted

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INTRODUCTION at the start of the Batavian Revolution in 1795, which returned power to the Patriotic States. During these republican times, Meerman and his wife, Anna Cornelius Mollerus, travelled all over Europe – the journey to Great Britain and Ireland in 1786 would be their first journey together. Additionally, they went to Germany, Austria, Italy, Sicily, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. They returned to the Dutch Republic only when it was safe for them to do so. ‘eermans political views also (ind their expression in this travelogue. For example, he says about the English )overnment that the general experience undeniably shows that the majority of people never thinks and acts for themselves. Instead, those who know how to lead and govern . . . are the masters 214. :ecause o( the tens o( thousands o( hypocrites inspired by patriotism, according to Meerman, it is natural in many ways to have a group of hereditary nobility stand between the Crown and the nation 380; 210). His contempt for republican rule is clearly expressed throughout the book; he describes the different political systems in Greta Britain and their faults at length. Through his marriage to Mollerus, Meerman gained valuable political connections. Therefore, in 1807, he was able to procure the position of director-general of the Ministry of Education, Culture, and Science, as the Ministry of the Interior was led by his brother-in-law, Johan Hendrik Mollerus. In this position, Meerman was tasked with mana)in) anythin) concernin) the state o( science in the Kingdom, especially the state of learned and literary societies,

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JOHAN MEERMAN universities, gymnasiums, Latin schools, prestigious libraries, and other scienti(ic collections qtd. in Van den :ur) par. 12). The knowledge he gained from his travels greatly aided him in this endeavour. He greatly expanded the Royal libraries and museums with manuscripts, art collections, statues, minerals, exotic flora, and coins (Molhuysen and Blok 957). He was appointed as ;omte de lEmpire under Louis Napoléon Bonaparte in 1811 before he died in 1815. In 1820, his wife erected a memorial in his honour which can still be found in the Pieterskerk in Leiden.

Print history of Eenige Berichten Omtrent Groot-Britannien en Ierland

Meerman published three extensive accounts of his travels: one on Great Britain and Ireland in 1786, the translation of which you shall find in this volume, one on Austria and Sicily in 1793, and a series of five books on Northern Europe in 1804- 1806. In order to distinguish between our English translated version and its Dutch predecessor, we shall continue to refer to ‘eermans ori)inal as Eenige Berichten. Eenige Berichten was especially popular in the Dutch Republic, Heimerick Tromp even called it one o( the most (amous Dutch descriptions of Great Britain and Ireland of the second half of the ei)hteenth century 15. Eenige Berichten also enjoyed a certain degree of popularity in Germany. The fruits of ‘eermans education can be (ound in many o( his works. For instance, Eenige Berichten not only showcases the intimate knowledge Meerman had of the arts and sciences, it also

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INTRODUCTION displays a deep familiarity with the Latin language, as he makes extensive use of long and complicated Latinate sentence structures. Eenige Berichten was published in 1787 by J. van Cleef, also known as Isaac van Cleef, in The Hague. The book was dedicated to ‘ollerus. ‘eerman states, I dedicate these pages to you, my beloved travel companion through the three neighbouring kingdoms, just as you accompany me through the entirety of li(es journey (3). Interestingly enough, only Van Cleef is mentioned on the cover. Meerman himself is not credited at all, even though he was the texts author, nor is his name is mentioned on any o( the pages at all. This is in stark contrast to his works on Northern Europe, where he is named in full, with the inclusion o( one o( his titles, Heer van Dalem en Furen (Lord of Dalem and Furen). The civil unrest in the Dutch Republic at the time of publication could be the reason that Meerman was not credited in or on the cover of the earlier work. Furthermore, although Meerman sings Englands praises in the book, he is also a harsh critic of the countries he visited. It is possible that the omission of his name was an attempt by Meerman to prevent being linked to the work. Two German translations of Eenige Berichten were printed and published in 1789: Johann Meermanns, Freyherrn van Dalem, Nachrichten von Großbritannien und Irland, by an unknown translator, was published by Friedrich Albrecht Monath in Nuremberg while Paul Gotthelf Kummer published J. Meermanns, Freyh. van Dalem, Reisen durch Groß-

JOHAN MEERMAN

Fig. 2: Jacobite uprising of 1745, final battle at Culloden in 1746.

Fig. 3: Dublin ca. 1831 (from Phoenix Park)

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INTRODUCTION britannien und Irland, translated by Christoph Wilhelm Eschenbach, in Leipzig (Van Heel et al.).

Historical Context Meerman set out on his tours of England, Scotland and Ireland in 1786 during a time of peace. Three years had passed since the end of the War of American Independence and the French Revolution had not yet infused continental Europe with its ideas of liberty, democracy, and popular rule. Economic growth was transforming the physical and social landscape of the region, securing a concentration of wealth and power in the capital cities of London, Glasgow, and Dublin. As cities grew, many inhabitants abandoned the countryside and headed into nearby towns and urban centres to seek out new work opportunities. These migrations were the first tell-tale signs of the advent of the Industrial Revolution. In the next centuries, Great Britain would experience unprecedented economic, social and cultural change establishing it as the centre of modern society in Europe. Throughout his travels, Meerman witnessed early victories of industrialization such as road building, architecture, land clearings, construction of specialized factories and consolidation of educational institutions. He evidenced the difference between the existing social conventions of rural and urban populations, recognized social inequality, and placed emphasis on the visible effect it had on the aesthetic of the city. As his travels unfolded between rural and urban settings, he came into contact with different inhabitants and

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JOHAN MEERMAN their way of living, and made a point of delineating the existing social conditions which were affecting them. In Ireland, the pervasive issue was the English Protestant domination of the Irish Catholics during the period referred to as the Ascendancy. In Scotland, the latest Jacobites rebellion of 1745, was the last failed attempt to restore the throne of Britain to House Stuart, and it resulted in a severe redistribution of land and rights known as the Highland Clearances. The pa)es o( ‘eermans travelo)ue convey an exhaustive account of the particulars of each region he visits. The scope of his travels is impressive, in large part, thanks to ‘eermans intellectual prowess. And while the herculean task of documenting a comprehensive history of eighteenth century Britain, Ireland and Scotland, eludes the purpose of this introduction, an overview of some key historical aspects present in the (ollowin) translation o( ‘eermans travelo)ue might prove helpful going forward.

The Kingdom of Ireland and Protestant Ascendancy

The end of the seventeenth century marked the end of a period of wars and revolts in Irish history. They entered a time of peace, but also a time of recovery from political and social chaos. The English Civil War in 1640 and its culmination in 1649, with the victory of the English Parliamentarians over the Royalists, had a direct effect on the Irish population. For the next century, English Protestants would establish Protestant Ascendancy in Ireland. This

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INTRODUCTION entailed a sweeping dispossession of landownership from Irish Catholics. It eliminated their rights to hold office, vote, and bear arms, and consequently debased their status to second rate citizens in their own country. The power rested mostly in the hands of a protestant minority supporting the Crown, which allowed the passing of laws of suppression that excluded Catholics from participating in many areas of public life. The period of Ascendancy and its governance created a wide spread poverty of the nation. Plagued with the famines of 1721-1722, 1728-1729 and a particularly severe one in 1739- 1741, the Irish countryside was in a truly deplorable situation. There was a blatant discrepancy between the city and countryside. During the eighteenth century, Dublin was thriving and growing as a city. Shortly after the turn of the century, the capitals population had more than doubled. The famines plaguing the country also played a significant role in the change of demographic in the capital. During these dire- straits people left smaller towns to search for work and food in more populated areas. The result of this migration was a large influx of poor inhabitants, many of which found no work and resorted to begging in the streets. The overwhelming amount of poverty in the capital damaged the citys reputation, especially in the minds o( (orei)n visitors such as Meerman. In Dublin, the poor and rich stood in stark contrast to one another. The wealthy built large mansions and sponsored beautiful parks and squares as well as bridges and roads in Dublin to ensure the city maintained an image of affluence

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JOHAN MEERMAN and nobility. In his travels, Meerman often pays tribute to the eminence of Dublin as can be seen in the following passage: Few cities are generally as well designed as Irelands capital, with its strai)ht and broad streets, pretty squares, and beautiful private and public buildings. These buildings are made bigger and better each day. (340) While the country did face many internal issues at the time, the eighteenth century was also a time of growth for the Irish economy, especially for foreign trade (Foster 143). This economic growth ensured that apart from Dublin, many other cities in Ireland also developed during the century. Market towns and large ports benefitted from increased international trade, and the growth of rural economy would help steadily shape the landscape of the countryside, where many new roads, bridges and mills were built (Foster 145). All of which Meerman thoroughly treats in his text.

The Kingdom of Scotland – The Capitals, Highlands and Jacobite Rising of 1745

The relationship between England and Scotland in the eighteenth century differed significantly from the Irish situation. As with Ireland, the culmination of the English Civil War in 1649 marked the beginning of English Protestant dominance. However, unlike the Irish, most Scots were Presbyterian or Episcopalian and saw fewer issues with Protestant rule. In 1707, both states signed the Act of Union and united into one Kingdom under the name of Great

INTRODUCTION

Britain. In essence, this union dissolved the Parliament of Scotland and merged the English and Scottish economies. This newfound access to the English economy and its vast empire overseas, generated a much-needed influx of capital which boosted a country that had squandered its reserves on failed colonial projects in the New World. It was due to this economic revitalization that Scotland was able to grow both economically and socially. This also becomes evident in ‘eermans writin)s, as he speaks hi)hly of the elegant architecture in Glasgow and Edinburgh, as well as of the prominence of their intellectual figures. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that a bibliophile and intellectual such as Meerman would revere these cities which were at the helm of pioneering scientific thought; they were home to prominent universities and would soon become the centre of Scottish Enlightenment. During the second half of the eighteenth century, Scotland took the lead in matters of intellectual and scientific progress, with notable figures such as David Hume writing influential philosophical works (Gascoigne par. 5). Glasgow had begun to strengthen its trading position around 1740 and had become a prosperous city by the second half of the eighteenth century as the city maintained the principal tobacco port in the United Kingdom. The city experienced an ill twist of fate at the end of the eighteenth century, when extensive fires destroyed parts of the city, and laws were passed forbidding the construction of wooden houses. In reaction, residences were rebuilt out of stone and in uniform designs, adding to the aesthetic allure of the urban

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JOHAN MEERMAN centre. Indeed, ‘eerman too was sensitive to this stone stateliness ‘aver par. 7 when he showered praise on Glas)ows remarkable beauty Glasgow, not only one of the most beautiful cities in Great Britain, but also in Europe, distinguishes itself greatly from the other towns in this part of the kingdom (273). As ‘eerman turns his attention away (rom the city and towards the countryside he encounters the vast northern expanse called the Hi)hlands, a re)ion known (or its untouched nature, tall ja))ed mountains, and, historically, the home o( clans and chie(tains. It is here that an important movement known as the Jacobite Rebellions be)an. The Jacobite movement extends (rom 1688 to 1745. Its cause was the support o( a dynastic claim to the throne o( En)land by the House o( Stuart. The Hi)hland Scots, a catholic sympathetic clan, believed a (ormer En)lish kin) had been ille)ally deposed o( rule in 1688. Their do))ed support (or the return o( a catholic monarch incited (our rebellions. The 1745 rebellion would be the last battle a)ainst the ;rown and in de(eat the Jacobite cause would cease to exist. In his travels ‘eerman encounters the hi)hlanders and is not very impressed, he notes that [t]here is not much to say about the character o( the Hi)hlander. Since the rebellion o( 1745, they have behaved as obedient subjects in public a((airs 302. Indeed, Hi)hlanders were heavily subdued by the En)lish in several ways some were deprived o( their estates, carryin) weapons was (orbidden, and, as the ultimate symbol o( submission, they were no lon)er allowed to wear their traditional tartan clothin) althou)h this restriction was revoked in 1782. This

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INTRODUCTION reprisal was re(erred to as the Hi)hlands ;learances. The Hi)hland and Lowland Scots were divided on this matter, however, as the Lowland Scots were supporters o( ”rotestant Kin) William o( “ran)e and had little sympathy (or the Hi)hlanders uproars. Additionally, and contrary to the Hi)hlanders, the Lowland Scots also lived in more prosperous environments where they established towns and tradin), and in cities like Glas)ow and Edinbur)h, they were more occupied with intellectual pursuits. ‘eermans accounts re)ardin) the Hi)hlands also re(lect another trend Scotlands natural environment had been chan)in). Trees were cut down (or (uel, timber, and to create space (or (armland. Forests in Scotland had reached an all- time low, and the human (ootprint on the environment continued to trans(orm the (ace o( the Scottish countryside.

British Parliament and State of Affairs in the Eighteenth Century

When ‘eerman travelled to :ritain, Scotland and Ireland, the rei)nin) monarch was Geor)e III. He ascended the throne at the a)e o( 22, when his )rand(ather suddenly died in 1760. Kin) Geor)e III was a very pious man and supported the ;hurch o( En)land. Interested in diverse subjects includin) the study o( science, which was a (irst (or a kin) at that time, he (unded the Royal Academy o( Arts and kept a lar)e collection o( books in his library open to scholars.

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JOHAN MEERMAN

Fig. 4: George III

b Fig. 5: William Pitt the Younger

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INTRODUCTION

Geor)e III was the (irst kin) in years to be born and raised in :ritain. Departin) (rom German Hanoverian tradition, Geor)e chose En)lish over German as his (irst lan)ua)e, deliberately distancin) himsel( (rom Germany and lookin) to reconnect with his subjects. His rei)n was pla)ued by both the Seven Years War and the American Wars o( Independence, which cost him much o( his popularity. Geor)e III was also notable (or his lack o( subtlety arbitratin) the tension and alliances between the Whi)s and the Tories. A(ter the American Independence, William ”itt the Youn)er was appointed ”rime ‘inister and Kin) Geor)e III re)ained popularity amon) the public under ”itts tenure which lasted seventeen years. Kin) Geor)e III su((ered a period o( violent insanity in 1778, but recovered the next year and (or the next twelve years rei)ned as a beloved ruler. He was a symbol o( stability in contrast to the revolutionary turmoil in France. As the French Revolution pro)ressed, Geor)es health declined, and in 1810 he slipped into an illness (rom which he would not recover. His event(ul 59-year rei)n would be the third lon)est rei)n o( the :ritish monarchs The curiosities o( Geor)es rei)n undoubtedly persisted in the mind o( ‘eerman durin) his travels in Great :ritain. His deep interest in matters o( the state is revealed as he dedicates a (air portion o( his travelo)ue to describin) the monarchy and ”arliament, detailin) not only the system and the morals behind it, but also the activities o( Geor)e III and his queen.

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English Cities in the Eighteenth Century

By the end of the eighteenth century almost ten percent of :ritains population lived in London. Thousands of people migrated to the rapidly growing industrial cities in the north as well. There, they hoped to find work in the factories and textile mills that had begun to spring up there from the 1750s onwards (White Rise of Cities). The full force of the Industrial Revolution would not occur in the Dutch Republic until much later than it did in Great Britain, and Meerman was keen to observe its novel trends, writing in detail about industrial cities and their harbours. During this time, London suffered from factory pollution. The industrial factories and increasing population created a suffocating and cramped atmosphere in the cities. The rivers and open sewers running through the streets and carrying waste, butchers offal, and manure created what was probably a spectacularly atrocious odour, not to mention the effect these unhygienic circumstances would have had on the city's public health (White Rise of Cities). Around the time Meerman visited the British Isles, attempts were being made to improve the quality of living such as the paving and more regular cleaning of streets, as well as improving street lights (White Rise of Cities). Meerman regularly comments on these types of improvement of the quality of living. However, living conditions were still dreadful for most people. While the wealthy might escape the dirt of the streets through their use of horse-drawn carriages, and could escape to their estates in the country, the majority of people was

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INTRODUCTION incredibly poor, lived in cramped homes, and often worked dangerous and low-paying jobs, if they worked at all (White Health, Hygiene). The great rift between the rich and poor is made apparent as Meerman describes both the elaborate and lavish estates, and the many strict and cramped poorhouses in this volume. London was popular not only for the lower classes looking for work, but also the rich upper-class. The latter was attracted to the capital because the government met in London once every year, which encouraged the rich and their families, servants, etc. to stay in London permanently. The same government also established laws that called for more civil servants and lawyers. Other professions, such as doctors and architects, also increased in numbers. Other well-known areas of industrial urban growth were several cities in the Midlands and the North of England. In Manchester there were the cotton factories, while in Leeds and Halifax the industry was mainly focused on clothing with metalworking taking place in Sheffield and the West Midlands (White Rise of Cities). Meerman has a chance to observe the magnitude of these centres of production and their all-important cotton mills. In reflection, he writes: At night, when such a building is completely illuminated, it makes a great impression. In Manchester and in the surrounding countryside, nearly everything that can be made of cotton is produced. (235)

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Fig. 6: Grand tour - British Connaisseurs in Rome

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INTRODUCTION

The Travellers, Their Destinations, and Their Audiences

In the ori)inal (oreword to Eeni)e :erichten, ‘eerman states that, when travellin) throu)h En)land, Scotland, and Ireland I wrote down what I saw and observed, but I most certainly did not have the sli)htest intention o( subjectin) it to public scrutiny by publishin) it, there(ore disre)ardin) the accuracy that I would otherwise never have ne)lected 5. This is the crux o( travel writin), or, as Tim Youn)s and “ttmar Ette, who revolutionized travel writin) studies, would say travellin) never occurs unmediated Van Dam. In the ei)hteenth century, this type o( writin) had become immensely popular and travel books were widely read and written. Travel writin) as a )enre inevitably has a complex relationship with the circumstances which prompted the writin), as will be demonstrated. :oth the Dutch and the :ritish have a lon)-standin) reputation as travellers merchants, diplomats, soldiers, sailors and artists travelled outside their home country (or several purposes Dekker 277. In the ei)hteenth century, :ritain, the ’etherlands, and France had surpassed ”ortu)al and Spain as the centres o( European power, presti)e, and wealth :rid)es 54. Exploration and travel outside o( Europe had been, up to now, the purpose o( travellin) as well as travel writin), whether (ictional or (actual. When :ritain surpassed the Dutch and the French, it caused travel writin) to become more explicitly concerned with trade, diplomacy, and the presti)e o( :ritain :rid)es 56. All aspects o( this

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JOHAN MEERMAN exploration – trade, diplomacy, and scienti(ic exploration, amon) other thin)s – have contributed to European expansion. All o( this needed to be reported on and documented readin) audiences had )otten used o( the stories o( (ar-away lands and now wanted to learn more (rom the empowered next door. ‘eerman was a notable exception. His recountin) o( his trips to the three kin)doms, as presented in translation in this book, shows a (ar more pro(ound interest in and observation o( countries and peoples than usual Dekker 284. He includes, (or instance, marvellously detailed descriptions o( dress and poverty amon) Dubliners but also describes, in )reat detail, the cock (i)hts that were popular in :ritain. His attention to cultural practices, traditions, and his jud)ements on these phenomena could re(lect his educational back)round and )eneral (ield o( interest, but it may also indicate that ‘eerman was tryin) to discern what made :ritain di((erent (rom the ’etherlands, how this country surpassed them and what e((ect this had on sociolo)ical, political, and cultural environments Dekker 283-4. This, however, also shows how travel and travel writin) are cross- cultural activities which reveal as much about the travellers and their environments as it does about the people and countries they are con(ronted with Van Dam. In this case, ‘eermans work and its translation does not merely o((er a description o( Great :ritain, but also o( ‘eerman himsel(. James ;li((ord remarks that the traveller, by de(inition, is someone who has the security and privile)e to move about in relatively unconstrained ways 34. Up until the second hal( o( the ei)hteenth century, only youn) men o( aristocratic and

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INTRODUCTION noble birth enjoyed the privile)e o( the Grand Tour o( Europe, which (unctioned as a rite o( passa)e (or these men Seaton 116 and was meant to broaden horizons and enli)hten citizens, since knowled)e was rooted in experience and nowhere else :rid)es 37. Accelerated social and economic chan)e, however, also increased social and physical mobility o( the middle class, creatin) the possibility (or tourism. Rather than learnin) (rom all the )reat nations in Europe and becomin) enli)htened citizens, moneyed, middle-class youn) men undertook journeys o( a more hedonistic and aestheticized desire ;li((ord 116. In the ei)hteenth-century, travel writers were mostly white, middle-class, well-educated men, which is not to say that non-conventional writers, such as women, did not exist, but they were less able to move about in relatively unconstrained ways ;li((ord 34. :etween 1763 and 1800, some twenty (emale-authored travelo)ues appeared, includin) those o( ‘ary Wortley ‘anta)u, Ann Radcli((e, and ‘ary Wollstonecra(t. Lesser known destinations became the (ocus o( new curiosity. While London became the cultural centre o( Europe, other parts o( :ritain also became o( more interest ”orter 26. ‘eerman, in his (oreword, states that his two journeys across the island have )iven [him] the opportunity, however, to o((er my readers the curiosities o( nearly every county En)land has to o((er. 6. In this, ‘eerman could be seen as a combination o( the two ways o( travel he travelled to cultural and scienti(ic centres such as London, “x(ord, and ;ambrid)e, but also to less well-known places throu)hout the Kin)dom. In this he too straddled the divide between the Enli)htenment and the

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Romantic period. With the emer)ence o( (ictional accounts earlier in the century, a more determined e((ort was made to distin)uish the (actual (rom the (anci(ul and to distin)uish between )enres in the last hal( o( the century ”orter 28. Travel writin) was not merely seen as a way o( discoverin) and describin) unknown worlds and then communicatin) this to people who would, most likely, never visit the lands one described rather, now it had become cultural practice, where travellers construct (orei)n worlds that they encounter. It was catered to a readership o( ea)er consumers o( exotic – culturally othered – )oods :risson and Schweizer 85. This audience, throu)h travel writin) such as ‘eermans, could vicariously live the experiences, which meant that they could en)a)e in discourses about other lands and other people in hope o( appearin) more learned :risson and Schweizer 86. Travel literature written in En)lish had become very popular outside o( :ritain, too, which had created an ima)e o( a :ritain which needed veri(ication. The readin) public outside :ritain became ea)er to be in(ormed and diverted by accounts o( the country that had, by now, so completely surpassed them. The reverse holds some truth as well non- En)lish travel writin) has o(ten been in(luential in :ritain Hulme and Youn)s 1, with much o( the travel writin) appearin) in translation nearly immediately a(ter publication. However, travel writin) on :ritain was less in(luential, yet o((ered an interestin) perspective to look at ones own country.

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INTRODUCTION

Travel Writing and Its Conventions

Just like every other type o( literature, travel writin) is bound by conventions and expectations which di((er in style, content, and purpose o( writin) (rom time and place. In the case o( travel writin) in the ei)hteenth century, travel was everywhere, and as such it was in(luenced by a lot o( thin)s, (or example (ictional travellin), the Enli)htenment, and Romanticism :uzard 37. The overlap between travel and (iction in the ei)hteenth century resulted in literary conventions dictatin) non-(ictional travel accounts (ictional literature o( the a)e is (ull o( travellin) heroes enmeshed in journey plots, and almost every author o( consequence . . . produce one overt travel book :uzard 37. Travel writin) in the period that ‘eerman was travellin) was cau)ht between the decline o( the Enli)htenment and the rise o( Romanticism, which in(luenced its conventions. The Enli)htenment had inspired a scienti(ic style, as we can see in ‘un)o ”arks Travels in the Interior o( A(rica, while buddin) Romanticism inspired a more sentimental style, as we can see in Laurence Sternes A Sentimental Journey Throu)h France and Italy. This clash is also re(lected in ‘eermans style, which is predominantly empirical, but does also contain more sentimental descriptions o(, (or instance, nature. A para)on o( Enli)htenment thinkin) is that those who could travel, should. As mentioned previously, ‘eerman wholly supported this idea, as he believed it an important way to develop onesel(. The relatively empirical writin) style o( his travelo)ue also supports this notion. ‘eerman believed that a

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JOHAN MEERMAN certain level o( attention to detail and precision was required to be able to write a success(ul travel text. This is clear throu)hout this volume, (or instance when he describes the ;astle o( Dover The )round, which is surrounded by the outer walls, is (i(teen Dutch mor)ens. The castle itsel( contains nothin) other than empty prison cells. Additionally, one will (ind barracks (or soldiers and apartments (or the o((icers and a chapel as well. There is a 24-(eet lon) canon on show, which was )iven to Queen Elizabeth by the city o( Utrecht. The cannon is art(ully cut and can shoot a cannonball as (ar as seven miles. 253

Fig. 7: Dover castle

Here, he describes not only the precise size o( the )rounds and the speci(ications o( the canon, but also what the castle contains. In other sections o( the text there are also quite extensive descriptions o( architecture, art, urban plannin), political systems, etc., especially when one considers his

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INTRODUCTION notes on his travels were initially not meant to be published. The style o( the text )ives it the (eel o( havin) been well- researched, almost scienti(ic, and, at times, somewhat overly detailed (or modern standards. This scienti(ic, intellectual, rational paradi)m was countered by another movement, where travellers were more drawn to the sublimity o( nature rather than culture. ’ature was the ultimate place (or comin) to terms with ones sel( and to let ones thou)hts run (ree and to be open to contemplation. Rational thou)ht was opposed by deep emotions intellectual jud)ements were replaced by instinct and intuition :uzard 45. The beauti(ul, picturesque and sublime be)an to replace the aesthetic ideas bound to the Enli)htenment. The beauty o( nature inspired our deepest emotions and appealed to male sexual desire that drove the species to reproduce itsel( while the sublime with its a)reeable horror […] addressed our impulse towards sel(-preservation and a((orded us the (risson o( contemplatin) terri(yin) thin)s (rom a position o( sa(ety :uzard 45. The personal, emotional response to the travels )rew in importance while the interest in empirical and rational descriptions waned. ’ear the end o( the ei)hteenth century, the picturesque (unctioned as a mediator between the beauti(ul and the sublime it ran between calm pastures and terri(yin) chasms. The picturesque is a beauty o( every kind, which either art, or nature may produce . . . this )reat object we pursue throu)h the scenery o( nature and examine it by the rules o( paintin). We seek it amon) all the in)redients o( landscape Gilpin. Accordin) to Hussey, a picturesque traveller is someone with

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a conception o( an ideal (orm o( nature and whose purpose it is to discover ideal scenes in existence, althou)h they o(ten (ail at (indin) them 83. Accordin) to Hooper, this ideal (orm o( nature was o(ten searched (or in rocks and precipices, stations (rom which to appreciate a particular scene, and later (or ruins, especially o( abbeys, castles, and keeps 174. En)land, with its picturesque Lake District, the sublime re)ion o( Wales, and the wild landscapes o( the Scottish Hi)hlands became one o( the destinations that truly spoke to the Romanticists minds Hooper 105. In travels to Great :ritain, this was o(ten coupled with a renewed interest in the ;eltic (rin)e, a place which was considered more mysterious and less cultured than En)land :uzard 43. A desire to not only describe the outside world in a scienti(ic manner, but also to describe and experience the picturesque and sublime rose in the ei)hteenth century. This was o(ten coupled with an interest in the noble sava)e, or the individual untarnished by culture, and a si)ni(icantly more sentimental style o( writin). In this volume, the (irst developments o( this more sentimental style and (ocus on the sublime and picturesque can also be (ound. It is especially apparent when he describes the breakin) o( dawn (rom a cave The moment when one witnesses the li)ht o( day anew while still standin) at a (ar distance is exceptional. First o( all, it appears one witnesses the very (irst appearance o( dawn, and shortly therea(ter (indin) onesel( seein) the world (rom a whole new perspective. 30

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INTRODUCTION

As can be seen in this excerpt ‘eerman is in awe o( the nature surroundin) him, and at those times becomes somewhat more poetic as well in his description o( his surroundin)s. That bein) said, ‘eerman has little to no appreciation (or what will later become known as the noble sava)e Uncultivated mountains produce nothin) but sheep pastures there are no certain paths, and apart (rom a hut here and there, built by the natives with some rocks and tur(, there are no villa)es. The natives are hal(-naked and they protect their heads and bodies a)ainst the rain or cold with some sort o( cloak without sleeves, but with a cap. Takin) in all o( this induces a sense o( melancholy that makes one appreciate the privile)es o( livin) in cultivated provinces that are more prosperous and blessed. 274 Althou)h in later texts, the way o( li(e uninhibited by culture becomes more revered, ‘eerman himsel( evidently does not share this point o( view, in (act, throu)hout the text he is rather critical o( those he considers un-cultured. ‘eermans travelo)ue may be seen to tentatively experiment with the more sentimental style. A key aspect o( this style is the omnipresence o( a (irst-person narrator which expresses itsel( in the (orm o( a copious use o( I and personal commentary, which ‘eerman uses extensively. However, he does not seem to under)o any explicit personal or emotional development durin) his travels, somethin) which would have been present had it been a sentimental travel text. Instead it is written in a more impersonal and scienti(ic style, )rantin) the

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JOHAN MEERMAN text a certain (eel o( objectivity, despite it bein) anythin) but. This rational style is dotted with sentimental allusions to objects o( beauty, althou)h those are almost always linked to culture, or occur in what ‘eerman perceives to be a cultured space. So, centuries a(ter its ori)inal publication, this translation o( ‘eerman, ori)inally written (or a Dutch public but translated with a :ritish audience in mind, will sketch an ima)e o( these (ormer kin)doms while also sheddin) li)ht on ei)hteenth century perception o( :ritain within European boundaries.

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Some Messages Concerning Great Britain and Ireland

DEDICATION

Dedication

I dedicate these pages to you, my beloved travel companion through the three neighbouring kingdoms, just as you accompany me throu)h the entirety o( li(es journey. Your amiable capacities, marking the majority of this journey, have doubled my delight, and I owe many of the remarks in these current messages to your judgement and insight. Reminisce in the quiet hours of domestic life on the regions we travelled with great pleasure, just as you enjoyed visiting these places during busier days. Let any place on earth where we are together– be it in our fatherland or abroad– always be called the stage of the most heartfelt and pure love, and, if it pleases the Heavens, also of the most pristine happiness.

FOREWORD

Foreword

I( there has ever been a work published which includes all o( its authors distrust and timidity, it would certainly be this one. ‘ore than anyone I am convinced, by the countless multitude o( writin) that has (looded civilisation, that it is almost an insult to the public and an act o( i)norance or pride to burden the world with more in(erior work. I am not oblivious to the abundance o( talents that must be united in a writer who dares to speak o( the state o( a (amous nation. Yet by publishin) these messa)es I )o a)ainst both these principles. I have visited En)land twice once in the year 1774, when I traversed almost the entire kin)dom and made a short trip to Scotland, and a)ain last year, 1786, when I was shown nearly the entire island o( Great :ritain, and a part o( Ireland, spendin) little over six months on each journey. “n both trips, I wrote down what I saw and observed, but I most certainly did not have the sli)htest intention o( subjectin) it to public scrutiny by publishin) it, there(ore disre)ardin) the accuracy that I would otherwise never have ne)lected. The topic o( this treatise only came to me a(ter I returned (rom my second trip, and I wondered whether the opportunity to be use(ul should be sacri(iced to any (orm o( vanity. Should I withhold my collection o( everythin) that is interestin) and worth seein) in these three kin)doms only because I could not report it as (ully as I had wished, or as discernin)ly as I would have expected others to do? Should I remain silent about everythin) because I thou)ht it would be impossible to recount it all? A(ter some hesitation, the scales

JOHANN MEERMAN tipped in (avour o( publication. It did so even more violently when I considered that most o( the authors who chose Great :ritain as the topic o( their investi)ations have limited their account to the national )overnment and the countrys morals, or they do not let their works cover more than London and its surroundin)s, o(ten up to “x(ord, when discussin) everythin) that (orei)n visitors normally explore. ‘y two journeys across the island have )iven me the opportunity, however, to o((er my readers the curiosities o( nearly every county En)land has to o((er. I have tried to avoid repetitions o( everythin) that I assumed was already common knowled)e to my audience, as much as was possible, since I do not wish to insult their intelli)ence. There(ore, I have occupied mysel( mainly with that which can be experienced directly by stayin) within the kin)dom. And i( by doin) so I have succeeded in in(ormin) (uture travellers, I deem this a )reat reward (or my labour. Durin) the makin) o( this work, I have consulted hardly any books by others, except (or the (ew I needed to re(er to (rom time to time. And because o( this (ear o( needless repetition, I did not want to use any sources except (or my own notes. In relation to En)land, I thou)ht the reader would (ind it more important and enjoyable when the text is arran)ed concisely by subject matter, instead o( the traditional manner o( lettin) them accompany me as I travel (rom place to place. Since the index o( this book also )ives an overview o( the in(ormation and shows directly what I have observed in every ”rovince and each city in di((erent parts o( my work, I was convinced even more to use this structure. Lea(in) throu)h

FOREWORD this book, one will easily understand that I had to use a di((erent method when writin) about Scotland and Ireland. I deem it unnecessary to (urther elaborate on and de(end my perspective. The title o( this book alone must disarm all criticism. Since I have not stated any situation that can be (ound in the works o( any other writer, or that could not endure the test o( research, no one shall dispute my ri)ht to treat a subject in )reater or lesser detail, and to withhold or report anythin) at my own discretion. I have not made errors deliberately in either text. And i( someone should wonder why I have not mentioned mysel( at the start o( this part o( the book, they should understand the (ollowin) on the one hand, it )ives me the ri)ht to speak (reely, althou)h I attempted to avoid anythin) that can be called personal on the other hand, the reprimands to which I mi)ht have been exposed will now only reach me (rom the circle o( my (riends, (rom whom I do not hide, and, at the same time, they will not be inseparably attached to my name.

England: Part One The Country

JOHAN MEERMAN

Fig. 8: Map of England, marked with places Meerman mentions in this chapter

ENGLAND: PART ONE

Even i( En)land lacks the astonishin) diversity o( objects that interest (orei)ners, more than any kin)dom in Europe, and i( it o((ers nothin) but itsel( to the travellers impatient curiosity, then, a(ter travellin) throu)h this country, one would have to be insensible to all o( natures beauty in order to doubt or criticise the si)ht o( this most extraordinary creation on earth. It is situated on the most (ertile )rounds, the most enticin) pastures, rollin) landscape that undulates endlessly between a multitude o( hills and valleys, and sometimes the )reat si)hts o( water(alls, rocks, ravines and clouded mountains. Un(ortunately, even when applyin) the most accurate description, the ima)e created in the mind o( the reader will never equal all the joys that witnessin) these miracles brin)s to the soul o( its beholder. As )reat as ones ima)ination may be, En)lands beauty can only be )rasped by witnessin) it (irsthand. When the brush o( an exceptional painter, such as ;laude,1 proves to be limited, what can a pen handled by the )reatest writer do, i( it can only speak to the mind instead o( the senses? There(ore, as lon) as my abilities have not yet (ailed me, the only reasonable action within my powers is to point out the places that stand out and instil in my compatriots a yearnin) to visit these places themselves. The (irst section o( the road, which leads (rom Harwich the harbour where Dutch ships moor to the capital o( the kin)dom, is already more than able to captivate any lover o( the beauti(ul En)lish landscape. “n a )randiose and o(ten

1 Claude Gellée, also called Claude Lorrain (c. 1600-1682). A French painter known (or his landscape paintin)s ;laude.

JOHAN MEERMAN shaded road, meanderin) over hills and throu)h valleys, one travels between (armin) (ields and past a broad )ul(, which spans several miles (urther inland. It separates the counties o( Essex and Su((olk (or as (ar as it stretches. Alon) with everythin) the immediate surroundin)s present, the water (ar below to the ri)ht side, the ships that sail it, and the slopin) )reen mountains o( Su((olk on the other side, trans(orm this re)ion into an ever-chan)in) masterpiece. The remainder o( the road to London does not (ail to enchant its travellers (rom time to time either. ’evertheless, althou)h the (armland is pretty in itsel(, one misses the lustre continually provided by water to these lands. Some o( the roads in the surroundin)s o( London have the advanta)e o( bein) accompanied by the Thames, unless one decides to pursue the (amous river over the mountains o( Kent where it encounters the sea, or when allowin) it to pass by several miles hi)her, where it is less wide. The (resh shrubberies that line its riverbanks are sublime. The wealthiest and most renowned inhabitants o( this county have put up noteworthy battles to build their mansions here in an attempt to determine whether it is possible (or these open and lovely views to blot out the tumultuous rumblin)s o( city li(e (or a couple o( months. The royal castle o( Windsor excels any other in this respect. It is built on a mountain, which elevates it (ar hi)her than any nei)hbourin) castles, and it provides wondrous and unlimited views (rom the terrace, laid alon)side three o( the castles sides. ”eerin) over the merlons )ives even )reater detail. From its base, one can see the city o( Windsor, and the meanderin) Thames.

ENGLAND: PART ONE

Several miles (urther on, the river continues to embroider the surroundin) landscape, without bein) hidden (rom view. A (orest, named a(ter the castle, and the )othic towers o( Eton ;olle)e, where the En)lish youth o( all rank study Latin and debauchery, unite to (urther enlar)e the strikin) diversity already present. When travellin) westward, one will stumble upon even more astoundin) re)ions in Wiltshire, Somerset, and o(tentimes even in Devon, and Dorset. Here, the mountains rise hi)her and slimmer, the water )ushes throu)h the valleys more loudly, rocks appear in lar)e numbers, and, where the )round permits, everythin) is cultivated up to the top, concealed by hed)es and trees that surround almost every (ield. This habit has become customary in a lar)e part o( En)land, and its e((ect a)ainst the backdrop o( a hill is beauti(ul beyond all attempts at description. From a tower atop such a hill, the eye meets no limits, and, durin) clear weather, the view extends towards the :ristol ;hannel, and the Welsh mountains. This tower was commissioned by ‘r Hoare2 and was to be built on a summit not (ar (rom his estate, in honour o( Kin) Al(red. The estates o( Lord ;ourtney and Lord Lisbon, on hills near the Exe estuary, are renowned (or their pleasant views o( this stream, the city o( Exeter, the sea and the beauti(ul surroundin) re)ion. However, ‘ount Ed)cumbe House is ri)ht(ully more renowned, as it is constructed atop a

2 Henry Hoare II (1705-1785), garden designer and banker, revered King Alfred as the founder of English liberty (Nelms).

JOHAN MEERMAN mountain on the opposite side o( the roadstead o( ”lymouth, where, alon)side the widest landscape and seascape, a city, a harbour, and a (leet are )athered in a small circle. The road between Honiton and :ridport is enlivened by allurin) valleys. The En)lish ;hannel, embracin) the Isle o( ”ortland, comes into the si)ht o( travellers, who can easily see the well-bein) on the (aces o( the residents they will encounter in this re)ion. :ath is located in a valley that has no equal in mirth. River Avon runs throu)h its centre )rand, well-shaped, and eternally verdant mountains surround it. In every direction, the roads are deli)ht(ul, and the one towards Frome continually alternates between hi)hs and lows. The road to Devizes traverses throu)h what appears to be a path o( mountains, which turns east (rom the :ath valley onwards. Similarly, the road to :ristol, zi)za))in) between rows o( mountains, is the (aith(ul companion o( the Avon in her course. :ristols surroundin)s boast even more elevations. The (lourishin) tradin) city receives the river at the (oot o( the ;li(ton hills, so o(ten praised by poets and upon which houses and )ardens are scattered. The river abandons the city one or two miles (urther, between two steep and (orest-covered walls o( stone, where it )ushes (or several minutes in relentless twists and turns. The view (rom above this abyss is (ri)htenin), while the view o( the rest o( ;li(ton hill is commandin) and beauti(ul, even more so when one approaches Severn estuary. The tavern near Kin)s Weston House, located at a considerable hei)ht, is visited daily by the inhabitants o( :ristol, and by those who come to use the adjacent hot

ENGLAND: PART ONE sprin)s, who are then treated to a view o( that wonder(ul place and the treasured objects it )enerously displays. From Kin)s Weston House, Lord ;li((ords estate, and especially a spit o( land called ”enpole, one comes (ace to (ace with the broad River Severn, expandin) as it attempts to draw alon)side the :ristol ;hannel, the Avon, which debouches in this stream, and Wales on the opposite side, surrounded by (orested and (ertile paths. A (ew miles (urther, be(ore one reaches the old (erry, it is surprisin) to see the mountainous areas, an ordinary si)ht (or the local population, suddenly replaced by a lon) borin) plain. ’evertheless, this unnatural phenomenon lasts only a short while. The riverbeds are both ascendin) and steep, and the river, which one crosses by (erry, is about two miles wide. At the bottom o( the river are many rocks, which occasionally cause heavy choppiness. The di((erence between low and hi)h tide on the Severn, as well as on the Avon, is truly remarkable. Durin) low tide, one rides or travels over the riverbank, where there is a lot o( alabaster between the sand, lar)e sedimentary rocks, and other types o( rocks. Hi)h tide, however, hides all these old and indestructible walls. “n the other side, the water has )ained victory over land, because the plain mentioned above shows clear si)ns indicatin) that the river on the :ristol side used to spread (urther than it does nowadays. As the Avon enriches the waters o( the Severn here, so does the Wye on the Welsh side. ;hepstow is divided by this stream. Steep cli((s (orm the natural networks around two sides o( this Roman city, many blanketed by (orest, and an ancient castle can be seen on one o( them.

JOHAN MEERMAN

”eople come (rom (ar and wide to see what deli)ht(ul si)hts ”ierce(ield House, ‘r Smiths estate, has to o((er. At present, the estate is accessible to stran)ers on Thursdays only. An avenue, which circles hal(way around a mountain, has been unskil(ully hewn (rom a (orest and leads to a meanderin) river, which borders the valley or rather, the lower mountain on the other side in such a manner that it looks like a turtle. All sides are covered in (orest and steep rocks. ;hepstow lies on the ri)ht side, and strai)ht ahead lies the county o( Gloucester, as well as most o( the Severns majestic stream. The post (rom there to ‘onmouth is incredibly beauti(ul (rom start to (inish, especially when comin) closer to this town. Here one travels almost constantly past mountains, both lar)e and small in size. The eye, re)ardless o( where it looks, is treated to the most a)reeable o( si)hts the most (ertile and pleasin) valleys, and, as (ar as the horizon stretches, the sky- hi)h mountain ran)e o( Wales, to which ‘onmouthshire used to belon). ‘onmouth itsel( lies in an enchantin) valley almost at the (eet o( these mountains. I hastened throu)h the (orested narrows that lead to Here(ord. Wide views are o((ered in between them, (requently interspersed with apple orchards, and wheat (ields. Eventually, these narrows brin) one to a more open and pretty road leadin) to Ledbury, be(ore reachin) the (amous ‘alvern Hills. The Welsh mountains and those in the nei)hbourin) counties appear to have shrunk to hills when one suddenly sees a mountain ran)e that consists o( hi)h and extremely narrow mountains. This mountain ran)e stretches (rom north to south and stands almost completely on its own. The

ENGLAND: PART ONE western side o( the mountains has a steep slope, and, at the lowest part, a pathway leads (rom one side o( the mountains to the other and twists and turns alon) the rid)e o( the mountains. Here, one will have an abyss on the ri)ht-hand side and a wall built out o( soil on the le(t-hand side, until reachin) the (ountain hut,3 and subsequently the villa)e o( ‘alvern. The (ountain house is quite remote, but beauti(ully situated. From the (ront o( the buildin), the (ertile county o( Worcestershire can be observed. Its never-endin) plain stands in stark contrast to the hei)hts o( the mountain ran)e, which unexpectedly lies at the same roots as the mountains. In order to exit this buildin) (rom the back, one has to climb to the second (loor. However, one is especially beside onesel( when one reaches the top o( the ‘alvern Hills a(ter (ollowin) the constructed paths that twist and turn. Here, the summit is not wider than (our steps and the entire mountain ran)e can be observed. To the east, not only the entire county o( Worcestershire can be seen, spread out like a (lowerbed with its episcopal capital in the centre, but also more remote counties indeed, even “x(ordshire can be seen. To the west, the view is even endlessly richer. Here(ordshire, diverse because o( its varyin) hei)hts and bloomin) like a paradise, and Wales, towards the (ar end, are part o( the adornments o( this proud scene. What seemed like

3 The Dutch word used by Meerman is bronhuis, which literally translates to source house and re(ers to a buildin), built around the source o( a river, where travellers can stay to enjoy the fresh water (GTB).

JOHAN MEERMAN mountains (rom below, only look like molehills (rom this hei)ht. A(ter the depiction o( these re)ions, it would be a pity to return to a description o( some o( the pleasant counties situated towards the middle o( En)land. ‘ost o( my readers will (ind it more important to learn about the road that leads (rom ;hester to Holyhead alon) the northern shore o( Wales. ’atures hand has separated the principality o( Wales (rom En)land there. Whereas ;hester is practically situated on a plain, Welsh territory be)ins a (ew miles (urther, marked by hi)h mountains. The re)ion instantly becomes woody, wild, and (illed with strikin) vistas. Here and there, the remains o( old castles can be seen stickin) out (rom the woods. Travellin) on, one will clearly discover the considerably wide mouth o( the river Dee on the ri)ht side, where it (lows into the sea. There is a peninsula on the other side. Holywell, (amous (or its well, is a city on the len)th o( a hi)h mountain. The valley below is deep and (ri)htenin), but a lovely water(all o( about ten (eet brin)s li(e and charm to the scene. The water(all is sustained by the well and puts a cotton mill in motion, which adds to the vivacity and charm o( the place. The next post does not brin) as much pleasure at (irst. Except (or the view o( the Dee, which has now started to re(orm into a )ul(, little beauty is to be discovered. “ne even strays (rom the coast (or some time, travellin) a (ew miles inland, to cross the most ru))ed moor. ’evertheless, this dread(ul re)ion suddenly makes way (or the most deli)ht(ul and picturesque valley one could ima)ine a small river (lows ri)ht throu)h the middle o( it to pour itsel( into the sea, now

ENGLAND: PART ONE clearly visible a)ain. The width o( this valley is about a hal(- hour ride, and the mountains, which one descends and then climbs to pass throu)h the valley, are quite hi)h. “n the horizon, the city o( Denbi)h presents itsel( on the le(t side o( a lower mountain, appearin) to be a heap o( stones. ”leasant and lush mountains (ollow a(ter this valley, and the post- house, where one will chan)e horses (or the (irst time, resembles a well-situated country estate or castle, rather than a buildin) used (or such a purpose. A(terwards, one starts to descend and rides only a short distance removed (rom the sea, while hi)h mountains and cli((s peek on the le(t side. Eventually, one is obli)ed to climb one o( these to reach the valley o( ;onway. Althou)h beauti(ul in a di((erent nature (rom the previous one, this valley does not brin) any less deli)ht. Its appearance is that o( a narrow street that has (ormed between the mountains. The ;onway, a (ast and stron) stream, with its source around (i(teen miles hi)her up, irri)ates both the valley, and the over)rown walls o( a small city, named a(ter the river, which has a dilapidated castle with the same name as well. Here and there, other mansions thrown a)ainst the mountain slope (rom a(ar, to)ether with a quaint country estate on the side o( Aberconway, contribute to enrich the diversity here. ”ast this valley, the scene takes on a completely di((erent shape. “ne has barely climbed the mountain be(ore one (inds onesel( amidst barren cli((s, with nothin) but some sheep pastures here and there. Each pasture is enclosed by piled stones, which also (orm the borders o( the road itsel(. Gradually, the valley starts to narrow down, while also

JOHAN MEERMAN becomin) more interestin). Sometimes one rides over a path, hewn out o( the rock, or the ru))ed mountains, with abysses on the other side. Liberated (rom this (ri)htenin) narrow path, the sea comes into si)ht once more, as well as hi)h cli((s on ones le(t side, and mountains on the horizon that rise above the clouds. Finally, one arrives at the sea where a road runs, hewn out o( rock at immeasurable cost. It is (lanked by stone (rom the bottom till the shore, closely resemblin) a wall, which arms and protects the road, turnin) around the mountains (or quite some time. In spite o( the terrible depth, the waves throbbin) a)ainst the cli((s can be heard as thou)h they are almost directly below. The steady mountain one leans a)ainst is steep and covered with lar)e chunks o( stone and )rit, which slowly tear away (rom the main body and then suddenly (all violently into the depth, especially due to heavy rain(all. Woe to the traveller who, by un(avourable (ate, (inds himsel( at such a place at such a time! The (all o( a sin)le rock would be more than enou)h to crush him and his carria)e and horses, or to push them into the sea. In many places, the wall at the side o( the road was broken away by these stones, and the lar)e and small pieces o( )rit below at the beach are as innumerable as the sand on other shores. The name o( the particular mountain that sheds these stones, is ”enmaenmawr. As soon as one has turned the corner, one descends a)ain. The island o( An)lesey, and another small island in (ront o( it, be)in to meet the arm o( the sea, which divides Wales (rom An)lesey and has shaped it into its current (orm. “n the same road, one rides (or another ei)ht miles until arrivin) at the

ENGLAND: PART ONE city o( :an)or, or a little (urther to where the (erry crosses to An)lesey. Whilst travellin) on the other side o( this road, mountains can be spotted in the distance, the tops o( which are hidden behind dri(tin) clouds. “( these, Snowdon stands out as the hi)hest elevation in Great :ritain. At this point, the width o( the lou)h is no bi))er than a common river. The distance by (erry (rom :an)or to Holyhead, and as such the len)th o( the entire island, is (i(teen miles the width is only twenty miles. ‘ost o( this re)ion is barren and cli((-like, and the mountains look like hills compared to the ones in Wales. Turnin) around, one will see the stone stron)hold that connects the earth to the sky. The cape o( Holyhead is the only important hei)ht o( An)lesey the harbour is built at its (oot, (rom where the )roup o( ships makes its daily crossin) to Ireland. The north-western part o( En)land has much o( the darin) beauty that is only possessed by very mountainous re)ions. Ever since an article about the district was recently published, it has become almost (ashion to visit the lakes o( ;umberland and Westmoreland. Since I could not include everythin), I chose not to (ollow this trend, the more so since Scotland and Ireland are adorned with lakes o( equal renown. All I can remember (rom my last trip to ;umberland, when I brie(ly rode throu)h it, is the beauti(ul valley o( ”enrith. The north- eastern re)ions o( the kin)dom are covered with mountains o( considerable hei)ht. Yet, situated (urther below, when one )oes throu)h its pleasantly rollin) landscape, throu)h the (ertile and (enced (ields that stretch all the way throu)h the peaks and valleys, one cannot ima)ine the )reatness o( the

JOHAN MEERMAN public )ardens, and, i( I may add, the citizens wealth that one encounters. Especially ’orthumberland is not renowned (or such beauty, except (or the valley o( Alnwick, and the road (rom ‘orpeth to ’ewcastle. However, one should have travelled the road between ’ewcastle and Durham be(ore one earns the ri)ht to review the beauti(ul pastures. There, it looks like the ;reator has made part o( the Heavens descend to earth in order to show the people what awaits them in the a(terli(e. However, some moorland that one has to cross in between appears to have been le(t in deliberately, to make sure that no one loses si)ht o( this world, and that not one place escapes the mark o( imper(ection, which is pressed on everythin) down here. From the mountain on this side o( ’ewcastle, one has the opportunity to see the richest valley throu)h which the Tyne (lows (or miles, crowded with ships, in addition to all the other splendour that cannot be denied on this entire road. Then, one (ollows this river in its curvin) (orm that has crossed the city be(ore it dischar)es in the ’orth Sea near Tynemouth and Shields.4 The eye will lin)er lon) on this element, which consumes it without end. Durham is located in one o( the most pleasant valleys round, deep and (ormed by )ently slopin) mountains. The bi))est part o( the city is surrounded by water, and lovely overhan)in) pathways are han)in) and swayin) next to it on one side. Yorkshire, expansive as it is, has pastures that are beauti(ul beyond ima)ination, especially in its western parts.

4 Shields is divided into two cities, North Shields and South Shields, each on one side of the River Tyne.

ENGLAND: PART ONE

The loveliest alternation between hi)hs and lows, the mountains themselves, the earth covered with (enced acres, to)ether with the lands (ertility, make the entire road between Harro)ate and She((ield almost an eternal Eden. This is enlivened by the many people, the (lourishin) residents, and the multitude o( country estates o( di((erent statures. The location o( Harewood, the estate o( ‘r Lascelles, bene(its (rom the endless view one has (rom the inn o( :ank Top, and the nearby Wentworth castle, the seat o( the Strat(ord (amily, on the valleys o( Leeds and She((ield. It )oes beyond my abilities o( depiction. Knaresborou)h, a place in Yorkshire that one visits (or the romantic location o( its surroundin)s, looks as thou)h it has been thrown a)ainst a stony mountain some o( the houses are even cemented into the rock. The remains o( an old castle rise (rom the top o( the mountain, with a river runnin) in a crescent below, and the shores on the other side are completely covered by (orest. Around Scarborou)h one encounters the most exceptional thin)s one can see (or miles (rom its castle, located on top o( a hi)h rock, and the roads (rom there to ;astle Howard, ”ickerin), and Helmsley are all equally appealin). In these parts, the si)ht o( ‘r Duncombes two estates near Thirsk is most enticin), especially the hi)h terrace on the second level. The eye is drawn to a deep, (ertile, and windin) valley, in which the extraordinary ruins o( a monastery stand. What remains o( the church that belon)ed to the monastery is the entire (i)ure o( the cross, and the pillars below, which have carried the arches o( this buildin).

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Yet, the monastery itsel( has only mana)ed to preserve its outer walls (rom the destruction o( time. The county o( Derby is more renowned (or its wild attractiveness. Almost everywhere in the county, one can see hi)h mountains and sometimes deep, wide, or very small valleys. The stron)est si)ns o( the incredible shocks that the earth had to endure here in the past centuries are particularly shown in the part that is called the ”eak District. Here and there, one discovers lon) chasms in the rocks that provide a passa)e (or travellers. Thus, ‘iddleton Dale meanders on (or hal( an hour. The road takes up the entire width o( the valley and on both sides cli((s as steep as walls rise to the sky. This is also the manner in which the valley o( ‘atlock twists and turns. It is as lon) as the last one, yet it is wide enou)h (or River Derwent to (low throu)h it. It has stron) currents and sometimes there are water(alls. The mountains that shape this valley are less steep and are completely covered with (orest on one side. “pposite ‘atlock :ath, people have created paths leadin) upwards throu)h this landscape, where one can suddenly see the entire ravine. Especially Dovedale is isolated between rocks that are peculiarly shaped and located. A road (or carria)es or horses cannot be constructed in this ravine, but there is a river that (lows throu)h it rumbustiously, (allin) directly downwards (ive or six times durin) its course. The (ootpath sometimes takes one over rou)h rocks, and, at other times, it leads one throu)h the water. Here, the River Dove sprays the lower sides o( the stron)holds, between which there is a)ain a considerable distance. “n one side, several

ENGLAND: PART ONE trees cover the mountain, yet on the other side there is only a bare cli((. The si)ht that one enjoys in Ilam, a place in the same county, is renowned and has been the subject o( paintin), like many other beauti(ul places. Two rivers appear a (ew (eet (rom each other at the earths sur(ace, a(ter havin) run under)round (or seven and (our miles, respectively. The (irst boils up violently and causes the water to rise. To)ether they are o( a considerable width, and, a(ter a (ew (eet, they (orm a (all. Around this water, which carries the name ‘ani(old, hi)h wooded mountains rise up like an amphitheatre. However, on one side this ve)etation is stopped by another mountain that is not covered by trees and has been shaped by natures hand in the (orm o( a pyramid. In addition to this )reat scenery, one encounters numerous other pleasant re)ions in the ”eak District. “ne place, (or example, is situated between ‘atlock and Ashburn, and stretches between those places and :akewell. A)ain, one will (ind many other barren places here that have to be crossed and that are in sharp contrast to the pleasant areas. The same can be said about the county o( ’ottin)ham, (or many barren moors stand a)ainst the pleasant pastures between its capital and Derby. Re)ardin) the road that leads (rom Derby to London, which is mostly mountainous and clean, I will be brie( (or I believe I am )ettin) sli)htly lon)-winded. I will speak only o( the excellence o( the walks between Skipton and the ;hapel House inn, and the si)ht one can enjoy (rom the terrace o( ’uneham ;ourtenay, Lord Harcourts estate, where the Thames (lows throu)h the cheer(ul valley o( Henley. Furthermore, the view on the Go) ‘a)o) Hills near

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;ambrid)e, on the eastern side o( En)land, does not deserve to be silently i)nored. These hills protrude like )iants (rom the endless plains, which can be observed (rom the castle o( Lincoln, and the estate o( the Duke o( Rutland located hi)h in the mountains, where one will (ind onesel( (acin) 30 miles o( )round in a lar)e semicircle. I am not (amiliar enou)h with the secrets o( natural history to elaborate extensively on En)lands natural history. The reader should not expect more than a (ew )eneral, simple reports concernin) the matter in these pa)es. The county o( Derby alone would provide plenty o( material (or a lover o( this science. Its rich lead mines, its veins o( marble and alabaster, its spar, and the well-preserved remains o( animals and plants that can o(ten be (ound in the heart o( stony mountains, make it most remarkable in this respect. A major part o( the ”eak District has been undermined by lead mines. Some o( these lead mines have been exhausted and abandoned, many o( which can be (ound near ‘atlock. Some remain horizontal in their course, whereas others make a per(ectly vertical descent. There are many mines in the surroundin)s o( ;astleton, one o( which can only be reached by an under)round canal. A lot o( marble (rom this province is (ound here, which has a li)ht-blue base, mixed with white veins. The )reat lobby o( Kedleston Hall, Lord Scarsdales estate, rests on sixteen pillars made (rom the most incredible yellow alabaster, (ound in the noblemans own )round. I( polished, the spar or the crystallisations o( this re)ion provide jewels to decorate the most )or)eous rooms. “ne sees all sorts o( colours, althou)h most commonly a

ENGLAND: PART ONE purple vein that runs throu)h an aqueous white base. In several stores in Derby they are turned into vases, obelisks, pillars, and the like. Lord :rown owns the most prominent one, and a (ew others in ‘atlock as well. A duller white is )enerally used (or the base. It is made by usin) the cones that are (ormed by the constantly seepin) water at the arch o( the caves, a(ter they have been polished. In this section, I will )ive a brie( description o( that (amous cave o( ;astleton, which has almost no equal. Its entrance is about a (ive-minute walk (rom this town at the (oot o( a cli((, whose top is covered by the ruins o( an old church. “ne will not discover this entrance until standin) ri)ht in (ront o( it – this is because it is hidden by the nearby protrudin) and turnin) rocks. Yet it is not possible to ima)ine anythin) more majestic than this (irst impression. It is as i( the eye is suddenly permitted to penetrate the inside o( the earth. The arch that one needs to )o throu)h is o( an immense hei)ht and the mouth o( the openin) is lon), wide, and as hi)h as a church. A (ew inhabited huts are built here, which are almost lost in the openin). Several women sit and spin in (ront o( its doors, but not in the open air. :ecause o( the len)th o( this mouth, it can even be used as a ropewalk. Here and there, lar)e pieces o( the stalactites I spoke o( shortly be(ore are stickin) to the beauti(ul arch that )oes (urther down as one )oes deeper into the cave. They )row continuously and never (all o(( the rocks, no matter how thin the particular part where the heaviest pieces are han)in) (rom may be. When comin) to the end o( this terrible mouth, one is required to crouch throu)h a small openin). “ne will then arrive in an

JOHAN MEERMAN area even more spacious than the (irst one. It has a roundish (orm the diameter, i( I am correct, is 50 ells.5 A(ter leavin) this area, one has to cross the water twice once lyin) (lat in a straw-(illed wooden tub, because the rock han)s very low, and once while bein) carried on the shoulders o( a )uide who wades throu)h the water. Here water also constantly drips down (rom the arch. A(ter enterin) a new space, one needs to look around. In the top part, there is a hole that can be climbed (rom an older part o( the cave. A considerable number o( women have positioned themselves here, with candles in their hands, to raise their voices and produce decent melodies that echo a)ainst the rocks whenever stran)ers arrive in the cave. This scene is a reminder o( the stories that youn) people like to listen to about sorceresses, and the wonder that leaves such deep marks on the still unbound ima)ination. “ne then continues on the lon), di((icult, and o(ten dirty road, sometimes crouchin) or standin) upri)ht, sometimes walkin) on a smooth or rou)h road, and yet other times walkin) without bein) able to see the ceilin), until one has travelled the entire size o( the cave, rou)hly 750 ells. When arrivin) at the end, there is a)ain some water. ”eople have tried to blast away some parts o( these rocks with )unpowder in order to discover new caves, but it has been impossible here. However, three new caves, similar to the one mentioned be(ore, have been discovered in other places. For

5 Footnote by ‘eerman The En)lish yard or elle has a ratio of 3 to 4 in relation to our measurement.

ENGLAND: PART ONE example, (our years a)o, they (ound one cave that is so incredibly hi)h directly a(ter its entrance, that the eye cannot perceive its ceilin), (rom which one can derive that a major part o( this rock and the nei)hbourin) rocks is undermined. There is no other path to )o back than the one used to enter. The story my )uide told me seems almost unima)inable i( this word can still be used when it comes to the acts o( a miser, namely that not lon) a)o, someone completely re(used to take anythin) into the caves other than a sin)le li)ht in order to save some money on candles. :ecause o( his own carelessness, that one li)ht went out entirely at the end o( the cave, (orcin) him to return the entire bumpy way with its twists, water, and everythin) else that makes the journey di((icult in the dark. A(ter (inally bein) saved, he even had the audacity to keep a )i(t, which he had promised to the )uide in the moments o( his distress, to himsel(. There are always two streams (lowin) throu)h this cavern, which )overn the (low o( the water I mentioned earlier. They provide (resh air, and sometimes trout can be cau)ht in them. Additionally, there are also several wells in here that (low over a(ter a heavy shower and (ill the entire cavern with water, except (or its estuary. This happened (our times last summer, and the (irst time was one week be(ore I visited them. It takes about three days (or the wells to (ill up, and rou)hly the same time (or them to dry up a)ain. The (lood had le(t a lot o( slud)e, and sand, behind in which several worms still resided. Furthermore, the bi))est stones, scattered here and there alon) the riverbed, had been torn (rom the rocks by the same (lood. :esides the crystallisations that I mentioned earlier,

JOHAN MEERMAN one can (ind a vast number o( mineral resources, (ossils, and, in particular, lead ore in the cavern, all o( which people sell in the tavern o( ;astleton. The depth at which one (inds onesel( here strai)ht under the )round, amounts to 207 ells calculated (rom the top o( the mountain. However, the cavern is much hi)her near the (ar end, where the stream also emer)es, than it is at the be)innin), althou)h one does not have to climb extensively to )et there. The moment when one witnesses the li)ht o( day anew while still standin) at a (ar distance is exceptional. First o( all, it appears one witnesses the very (irst appearance o( dawn, and shortly therea(ter (indin) onesel( seein) the world (rom a whole new perspective. ;lose to ;astleton lies ‘am Tor, the hi)hest mountain in Derbyshire, which has a terri(yin) abyss on one side. Another mountain in this area is home to the in(amous Eldon Hole a dread(ul pit, somewhat in the shape o( an elon)ated “ with a wall surroundin) it to prevent accidents (rom happenin). ’o one really knows the actual depth o( this pit, but the rocks that people throw in )enerally have a lon) way to )o be(ore reachin) the bottom. These and similar )reat phenomena o( nature can most likely be attributed to earthquakes. In the same county, near a place called :uxton, lies a cavern with the name o( ”ooles Hole. This cavern is lesser known than the one in ;astleton and rou)hly 100 ells shorter, yet not entirely unworthy o( reco)nition. The entrance is narrow and low, but a(ter this, the cavern becomes more spacious. When walkin) throu)h this cavern one has to ascend and descend constantly. “nce a certain hei)ht has

ENGLAND: PART ONE been reached, one can turn ri)ht and walk above those places (irst passed below. The incredibly lar)e rocks that are scattered around on the )round, which are as slippery as ice because o( the dampness, make enterin) this area so di((icult that one is (orced to move on hands and (eet (or most o( the time. Furthermore, several old ladies, who do the honours at this pit, assured me it only takes one minute (or the entire cavern to be (illed with water a(ter heavy downpour, and also just one minute (or the water to pour out a)ain. I did not wish to spend any more time there than necessary a(ter I was told about this at the (ar end o( the cavern, de(initely not durin) the dry season, and also because the place was very )rimy. The petri(actions o( the tricklin) water here are also peculiar. The most noteworthy o( these have been named a(ter their shapes, (or example the saddle, the lion, the or)an, the ladys toilet, and the pillar o( ‘ary, Queen o( Scots. Also, due to the (act that, accordin) to history, a certain bandit named ”oole had sojourned himsel( here and )iven his name to this cave, people do not (ail to point out his bedroom, basement, larder, and the like in the rocks to visitors. In Wales too, I unexpectedly discovered a cave, somewhere between Kinmel Hall and ;onwy, while I was ridin) on top o( a mountain alon) the le(t side o( the sea. I climbed the steep slope, althou)h not without e((ort. I think the arch that one enters throu)h may have been barely (i(teen (eet in hei)ht, and maybe hal( o( that in width. Everythin) consists o( rocks and stalactites, makin) the inside look very )rand and impressive. At the (ront, one immediately discovers a thick pillar, or stone wall, with on its le(t side a small chamber o(

JOHAN MEERMAN sorts. The other side splits o(( into two parts the ri)ht side has a similar den like the one I previously mentioned, but the le(t side, which is in the middle o( all o( this, (orms a rather wide passa)e. It is not a dead end but ascends quite a bit. At the be)innin) o( this passa)e there is some water and a red kind o( soil. I chose not to walk up that path any (urther, especially since my postilion as there were no )uides here warned me that no one had ever been able to reach the end o( the cave. They assured me that the (urther one )oes in, the worse the air becomes, and that the (ire o( the candles would eventually even be extin)uished. ;onversely, the previous caves I described never lacked (resh air. ‘ortimers Hole is the name )iven to the hollowed-out rock upon which ’ottin)ham ;astle is built. It is a lon) passa)e with several openin)s (or li)ht and ventilation. Althou)h, i( I remember correctly (rom my previous journey, this is all the work o( a chisel. Just like Derbyshire, the principality o( Wales has an abundance o( lead mines. I will not discuss En)lands iron and copper mines, since I have not seen any o( those. However, the coal and salt mines do deserve to be mentioned. Almost the entire northern hal( o( the Kin)dom is supported by layers o( coal. In the areas o( ‘anchester, She((ield, Leeds, and especially ’ewcastle upon Tyne, they are mined in lar)e quantities. In the open air, one will o(ten see a sha(t )oin) strai)ht down into the )round. A kind o( mill, powered by a horse, lowers empty baskets down into the sha(t and takes (ull baskets up a)ain. The people who have to work under)round are )oin) up and down in the same manner. To do so they put

ENGLAND: PART ONE a chain around their thi)hs, upon which they are almost able to sit. When they need horses to dra) the ba)s o( chopped-up coals throu)h the mine )allery, they harness the horses in nets to carry the ba)s down the minesha(t. They o(ten need a steam-pumpin) station to pump the water out o( the coal mines. Sometimes, this machine even per(orms certain jobs that would otherwise have been done by the horses. The depths o( the sha(ts vary (or example, those at Hartley are as deep as 60 (athoms, counted strai)ht down (rom the sur(ace. The only sha(t that I have seen (rom the inside is the one that is owned by the Duke o( :rid)ewater, which can be visited via his under)round shippin) system. This stran)e structure started near Worsley ‘ill, between ‘anchester and Liverpool. In order to be able to transport the coals more e((iciently (rom the insides o( the earth to the lar)e canal that he has excavated, this enterprisin) nobleman had ordered another excavation (or a di((erent sha(t in the mountain. The sha(t is approximately 40 ells shorter, about three miles in len)th, and the di((erent side-branches comprise a total o( six more miles. ;oals are transported here in lon), slim boats. In most places, there is room (or two o( these boats to pass each other, while they are bein) moved (orward merely by the shipper pushin) his hands a)ainst the vaults o( the sha(t. “ne o( these boats also transports visitors, i( they are cleared by a supervisor be(orehand. The canal is built in the shape o( an arch. Where the )round consists o( earth, a double row o( bricks has been laid where the )round consists o( stones, the workers have simply hewn the correct shape out o( the rocks. The construction o( this canal has cost three Guineas per ell.

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In several instances, however, the price was even hi)her, which is why the canal must have cost around (ive tonnes o( )old o( our Dutch currency. An appallin) amount o( money, considerin) it was spent only to reduce the expenses o( the coal transport. The air provided by the several pipes that lead upwards is always (resh. However, on one o( the old downward paths, one that is no lon)er connected to open air, the (lame o( a candle would be extin)uished when held only (our or (ive ells onto that pathway. When I visited this canal durin) my previous journey to En)land, I had to (ollow a lon) and low pathway, hewn in rock, and move almost entirely on my hands and (eet (or a considerably lon) time. At the end o( the pathway, I saw a partially naked man workin), while he was lyin) down in a place that was sli)htly wider, but in no way hi)her, than the pathway that I had come (rom. With every strike he made to hew the coals out o( the walls, he )roaned like a dyin) man, since the an)le his body was (orced to take was particularly a))ravatin) and made the work especially hard. However, last year I (ound visitin) the mines to be less strenuous. A(ter sailin) (or more than a quarter o( an hour, I was (orced to climb (rom the boat into a small openin), where, without havin) to stoop too much, I soon (ound two men choppin) down a wall o( coals in order to create a new pathway. This one will also be vaulted with brickwork in the places where there are no rocks. The layers o( coal are almost (our (eet thick throu)hout the entire mountain. The two men told me that they had to work (or ei)ht hours on end, with only one hal(-hour break in between, to earn a total o( sixteen

ENGLAND: PART ONE shillin)s. A supervisor would visit both o( them to evaluate their pro)ress. “n the other side o( the canal, at the same hei)ht, lay an older mine that was already excavated and has been abandoned. Thirteen years a)o, I saw another under)round canal, close to the villa)e o( Talke in Sta((ordshire, which was privately built by individuals who had the same objective in mind. The canal was not yet completed, but, disre)ardin) the side- branches, it was supposed to be about two miles lon) and stretch across the entire mountain. It was built with bricks in an oval shape and was hewn out o( the rock in most places. It is also wider and contains bi))er boats than the canal o( the Duke o( :rid)ewater. About hal(way throu)h, I had to li(t mysel( up throu)h an openin) o( 40 ells, with a chain around my thi)h. I have witnessed the processin) o( salt in En)land in two di((erent ways. In Hartley ”ans, not (ar (rom ’ewcastle, seawater is boiled in salt pans, or lar)e square containers. A(ter the boilin) process, the water will be drained out and what remains is a decent quality, white type o( salt. A di((erent way o( salt extraction is used in the surroundin)s o( ’orthwich in ;heshire. The )round consists o( rock underneath this little town and several miles around it. This rock is purely made o( salt. In several di((erent places, people di) up the salt themselves and in one o( these places I let mysel( be lowered underneath the sur(ace o( the earth. The sha(t is covered by a low buildin). Dressed in workmens clothes, one places a le) into a bucket while holdin) onto a rope. Another labourer positions himsel( in the same manner,

JOHAN MEERMAN steers the equipment, and takes visitors to the (irst level. As o(ten as one bucket )oes down, another bucket (illed with water simultaneously )oes back up. This is all done by a mill that is put in motion by a horse. From the (irst (loor, which is also the lar)est part o( the mine, one is quickly lowered to the second level. Here, however, the buckets are moved up and down by a man who turns a wheel. When lowered to the bottom o( the sha(t, which is 150 (eet beneath the sur(ace o( the earth, one will be in a space that looks like an immensely hi)h and circular church, which is completely carved out o( rock. “nly twenty very thick, square pillars were constructed to support the ceilin). Everythin) one sees around onesel( walls, )round, and ceilin) consists o( salt. It has a brownish shade, althou)h sometimes one (inds pieces that are as clear and white as crystal. All around, men are workin) a)ainst the walls, most o( them shirtless. Some are choppin) o(( little chunks with a sharp hammer, whereas others are hittin) lar)e nails into the )round in order to break o(( bi) loose lumps, which are then picked up immediately. The entire hall, i( I may use that word here, is illuminated, and a bellow, secured (rom the top, continuously sends an abundance o( (resh air throu)h pipes. The salt that is excavated here is shipped into ’orthwich in the shape o( square blocks. “ne share )oes to Ireland, while another share is mixed with seawater and turned into useable salt by boilin) it in Liverpool, and other places. The owner o( these mines ‘r ‘arshall6 durin) my previous journey owns

6 Thomas Marshall, Merchant of Northwich.

ENGLAND: PART ONE his own salt boilers close to this place, because it is almost impossible to use the salt in the state in which it is excavated. He assured me that he stokes up about twelve pounds sterlin) worth o( coals daily, notwithstandin) the abundance o( salt in this re)ion. ‘any places in En)land have quarries. As such, the entire city o( :ath and even the smallest houses in Somersetshire are built with lovely whitish, or li)ht yellow stones. This type o( stone can easily be treated in the be)innin), but hardens a(ter bein) exposed to air (or some time. In Liverpool, they continuously excavate this type o( stone, even thou)h all the houses are built with clinker bricks. Here and there, people also constructed buildin)s with (lint stones. For example, a )reat number o( churches and private houses, amon)st others, have been built in ’or(olk. Durin) the course o( passin) two or three sta)es between “x(ord and London, one drives throu)h nothin) but chalk hills. ’ear ”lymouth, lots o( slate stone can be (ound. Amon)st the mineral waters that are produced in this kin)dom in )reat quantities, those (rom :ath have earned the )reatest renown. They are sli)htly warmer than tepid and the taste does not di((er too much (rom re)ular water. ”eople drink them, as well as bathe in them. Sometimes they merely do one or the other, and sometimes they do both at the same time. ”eople drink the water at di((erent hours o( the day, but the bathin) only occurs early in the day. A(ter nine A‘, they let the dirty water drain away. The Kin)s :ath is the most presti)ious o( the three or (our that one can (ind here. “ne is able to )ive the bath several levels o( warmth, which can then

JOHAN MEERMAN a)ain be reduced with cold water. ‘en and women wade amon)st each other in cotton )arments in this square basin, with or without the assistance o( a )uide, and they usually stay there (or at least an entire hour, a(ter which they )et dressed in the well-heated chambers downstairs. A(terwards, a closed porte-chaise carries the patient home, where a warm bed must stand ready to welcome him. Usin) this water both internally and externally is only un(avourable in the case o( an illness that ori)inates (rom a (ever, in any other case it has a curative quality, especially (or enervation, squeamishness, a loss o( appetite, and the like. Since :ath has a sprin) and autumn season, it is clear o( visitors only (rom June until September or “ctober, o( which the latter is pre(erred the most. Each season, about 10,000 to 12,000 people visit this place, many o( whom are there (or their health, but most o( them simply visit (or their own pleasure. In summer, the water (rom the warm wells o( :ristol is drunk o(ten. Its temperature is even cooler than the waters (rom :ath, and it tastes less like mineral water. As everybody knows, this water is sent abroad in lar)e quantities. When the River Avon rises, its water o(ten )ets mixed into the water o( the wells (or a short period o( time. The well o( ‘alvern is cold, clear, has a re)ular water taste, and is said to have healin) powers on phthisic disorders, yet it is not (requently visited. The one in Holywell produces 120 tonnes o( the clearest water ima)inable every minute, which, on top o( this, is very pleasant to ones taste buds. ‘any people come here to drink and bathe in it, yet only (or a period o( two to three weeks. Durin) the centuries when people were

ENGLAND: PART ONE superstitious, monks built a chapel above the source in honour o( one o( the saints who per(ormed miracles there. The ori)in o( the name Holywell is derived (rom this. “ne must be completely renounced o( all the pleasures o( the palate i( one is capable o( swallowin) the lukewarm water o( Harro)ate, which, as clear the water may appear, tastes in(initely more like (oul e))s than the water (rom Aachen does. It has, however, exceeded all expectations in curin) Scorbutic diseases and other illnesses that ori)inate (rom constipation. Usually, the e((ect becomes immediately clear a(ter merely drinkin) two or three )lasses o( this water. In bi) pitchers, the water is also brou)ht to the inns (or private bathin), where, a)ain, it does not (ail to in(est the entire buildin) with its sulphurous smell. The water in ‘atlock is lukewarm, and the water in :uxton, in which people bathe as well, is a little warmer. :oth places draw a lot o( visitors, althou)h less than Harro)ates well does. Finally, without discussin) one lesser-known well in the nei)hbourhood o( Liverpool, there are three wells in Scarborou)h that contain iron – one more than the other. However, in summer this little town o((ers a )ood opportunity to bathe in the sea, so more people actually visit the sea rather than its wells. Alon) the beach, several carria)es are ready and waitin), which are completely closed o((, except (or a (ew small windows to let in some li)ht. A horse, which is mana)ed by a man or a woman – dependin) on the sex o( the bather – completely dressed in leather, takes this hired carria)e a certain distance out into the sea. ‘eanwhile, the bather

JOHAN MEERMAN undresses inside, a(ter which the door is opened and a staircase is lowered in order (or people to descend into the water, unless people choose to plun)e in, which is in(initely more enjoyable. ”atients are supported by the )uide and dipped into the water. He takes the children out o( the carria)e and dips them throu)h the waves, two or three times, a(ter which they are handed back to their awaitin) mother or caretaker. ”eople usually only stay in the water (or a moment the carria)e immediately returns its bather to the mainland, ready to undertake the same expedition a)ain with another bather. This practice o( bathin) in the sea, which is considered to be very bene(icial to the weak, also occurs in other places alon) the En)lish coast, althou)h not always in the same manner. In Southampton, (or example, they let the sea (low in and out o( wooden partitions. There are also special baths (or men and women, and (or those who can or cannot swim. ’ext to it are chambers where one can chan)e ones clothes. In )eneral, the custom o( bathin) is more common in En)land than it is amon)st us Dutch. Several houses have the convenience o( havin) a cold bath under their roo(s and more than one city has public baths where, in exchan)e (or a small (ee, people can take a dip in waters o( di((erent temperatures. Those in ‘anchester, amon)st others, are nicely set up. :esides the waters that are thou)ht to be bene(icial to ones health, I should brie(ly mention the (amous Droppin) Well in Knaresborou)h. Althou)h it has nothin) that really distin)uishes the taste o( its water (rom re)ular water, two particularities make it remarkable. “ne o( these is its

ENGLAND: PART ONE water(all the stream, which is led throu)h several little canals, pours down (rom the side o( a little mountain, about (i(teen (eet hi)h, which is almost entirely secluded (rom the rocks. The water pours strai)ht down the hill like heavy rain(all, without ever )ainin) or losin) stren)th or quantity. The location o( this well at the end o( a lovely little (orest, with rocks on one side, and a brook on the other, to)ether with this extraordinary and )ur)lin) phenomenon, makes it both an object and an inspiration (or pleasant contemplations. The other particularity is its ability to encrust within a (ew weeks, all objects that are attached to the rock over which this water (lows, are covered with a crust, albeit a very porous and crisp one. This provides a type o( income (or the )uides here, as they o((er hardened silk bows, wi)s, and other thin)s (or sale to the people visitin) the well. The moderate atmospheric condition o( En)land is very bene(icial to its (lora. Hot summers do not burn the products o( the earth, and (rozen winters do not limit the )rowin) power o( the crops, nor does it kill its youn) and tender shoots almost immediately a(ter they have sprouted. The summers are usually cooler and more humid, and winters are warmer than in our country. Here, the )rass and trees possess the kind o( (reshness that people (ruitlessly search (or in other countries. “ne will not (ind vast and )reat (orests in En)land anymore since they have been exterminated many years a)o. However, di((erent types o( woodland are dispersed all the more, o( which many must under)o a trimmin) o( their branches each year, in order (or them to not rob the (ields o( sunli)ht with their extensive shadows. ”lenty o( under)rowth

JOHAN MEERMAN can be (ound, and the country estates and parks are (illed with the most beauti(ul collections o( domestic and (orei)n plants. Soon, people will plant several pine tree (orests, althou)h the trees in this kin)dom usually never achieve the )reatness o( those one sees in Germany, and in other, more northern countries. In the park o( Welbeck, I was shown an oak tree, which had expanded in width to such an extent that an arched split had (ormed in the middle o( the stem, which could contain two horses alon)side each other, with room at the top to spare. Even around the capital, borou)hs and moors can still be (ound surprisin)ly o(ten here, notwithstandin) how much ”arliament )rants Enclosure Acts or the (encin) o( land to be reconstructed to (armin) land in every session. The entire periphery o( Salisbury, stretchin) out (or many miles, consists solely o( sheep meadows, and the inhabitants o( each villa)e know exactly what part o( this is their collective due. The stony and excavated )rounds o( the ”eak District in Derbyshire provide little harvest, partly due to the altitude o( this re)ion. There(ore, even in the valley o( ;astleton, people can only mana)e to cultivate oats. However, the land is all the more (ruit(ul in other counties o( this blessed nation, and nowhere in the world have people per(ected the art o( a)riculture as they have done here. In this re)ard, the counties o( ’or(olk and Su((olk could serve as prime examples to the rest o( Europe. The Society o( A)riculture, (ounded in ‘anchester, stimulates both the theory and the practice o( this indispensable science throu)h the means o( trade and rewards. Wheat and other types o( )rain are o( incomparably

ENGLAND: PART ONE hi)h quality, althou)h the bread is not always baked to the same standard, and rye bread is virtually unknown there. ;heshire has made a name (or itsel( due to its lovely pastures, and, as a result, the cheese that is produced there. ;ambrid)eshire, and several nei)hbourin) re)ions above London, contain low wetlands that are concurrently used as pastures and hay(ields. They are criss-crossed by many canals. Even in the middle o( summer, everythin) between Ely and :ury - yes, even the road - was submer)ed in water. In Here(ordshire, and other western counties, entire districts are (illed with apple orchards, with the main purpose o( producin) cider. The best type o( cider, made (rom the Golden ”ippin, is a (resh and coolin) drink that combines the (ra)rance and the (ermentation o( wine with the he(tiness o( beer, and is, (urthermore, less bland than perry, which is made (rom pears. In certain places, one has to pay eleven, sometimes even ei)hteen shillin)s (or a bottle. Hops, used to brew ale and porter, are cultivated in these same counties, speci(ically in Kent, where it is even one o( the main products. There the posts on which they are )rown are put to)ether in the shape o( a tent. A lon) time a)o, the south o( En)land also attempted to cultivate )rapevines, althou)h it has not been considered (or a lon) time now. In ”ainshill, however, a country estate not too (ar (rom London, a corner o( a particularly well-located mountain is still used (or this type o( a)riculture, to )reat e((ect. In very many places, chalk is burned in ovens in the middle o( a (ield, a(ter which it vaporises into an astonishin) mist.

JOHAN MEERMAN

In comparison to Holland, the En)lish are still la))in) (ar behind when it comes to the production o( (ruits and ve)etables, except in the country estates o( the wealthy. ”eople know and use in(initely (ewer kinds o( ve)etables than we do. ‘oreover, the En)lish sun does not appear in an unclouded sky o(ten enou)h, and, even when it does, it has too little stren)th to provide certain (ruits with the (ra)rance and ripeness that they demand. ’onetheless, there is a si)ni(icant distinction between the north and the south in this respect the )ardener o( ;astle Howard assured me that he knew (rom experience that the time o( harvest in London di((ered an entire month (rom that in York. The country estates are equipped with extensive ve)etable )ardens and have the most deli)ht(ul )reenhouses with peaches, )rapes, and pineapples. The art o( cultivatin) these has enormously improved, especially in recent years. At the place I just mentioned, they showed me a ve)etable )arden o( six Dutch mor)ens, (illed with )reenhouses that )row, amon)st other thin)s, the lar)est pineapples I think I have ever seen. They keep a (ire )oin) in the hollows that are situated here and there in the back walls. In the capital, (ruits and ve)etables are always (or sale (or the ri)ht price, re)ardless o( whether they are in season. This callously leads me to the subject o( the construction o( En)lish country estates, which are ri)ht(ully acclaimed as the most beauti(ul in Europe. :e(ore I lead my readers to some o( these places, I will (irst )ive a (ew remarks on this subject. ‘ost country estates are accompanied by an extensive, (enced park (illed with deer, sheep, and sometimes bi))er cattle.

ENGLAND: PART ONE

They are covered in trees and )rass. It is more common to ride than to walk throu)h these parks, as they o(ten lead to the entrance o( the house. The actual country estate is commonly called a pleasure )round. A lar)e part o( the estate is very spacious around the house one will hardly ever (ind any si)ni(icant woodland. All the spacious areas are converted into lawns covered in the (inest )rass. The )rass is mown and rolled weekly, and, because o( the work that is put in, appears to have the so(tness o( a velvet carpet, which satis(ies the eye. The (reshness o( this majestic )reenery is unparalleled in other countries, where the )rass is scorched by the burnin) sun, and the air is o(ten less humid. A windin) (oot path usually lin)ers across such a lawn, hardened with stones, so that the rain is never able to soak it. Here and there, circular )roups o( trees o( di((erent hei)hts stand in the )rass. Two dense rows o( thickets, ever)reens, and all sorts o( low plants (lank the pathway in many places. Everythin) that is not still )rowin) is set up in the exact same manner with the re)ular distance between trees and plants merely consistin) o( one step. This has an exquisite e((ect on the )rowth o( the plants and renders all hed)erows completely useless, thus sparin) the En)lish the (oolishness that we still possess, namely usin) trees to make walls. Althou)h this manner o( placin) the plants suppresses the wood in some way, this is not usually re)arded as un(avourable. All kinds o( plants are purposely mixed up those that are always )reen, those that lose their leaves in the winter, and (lori(erous trees. To make the )roup pyramidal, they place the plants that will stay low in the (ront and the others more towards the back.

JOHAN MEERMAN

The re)ular bay tree, and the ”ortu)uese bay tree, the larch, the Weymouth-pine, and all sorts o( pine trees such as the lilac tree, the )olden rain, and the )uelder-rose are amon)st the parks bi))est ornaments. In the middle o( the country estate there is o(ten a considerable stretch o( )rass, or water, that is several Dutch mor)ens lar)e, around which walks are taken sometimes amon)st the plants, or amon)st simple brushwood, or underneath hi)her thickets. In more mountainous re)ions, the En)lish are like artists when it comes to turnin) these locations into more picturesque scenes, bene(ittin) (rom the views that the outdoors has to o((er. This is deepened by the water(alls that they sometimes create. There are (ew (ountains, but all the more temples, salons, caves, hermita)es, brid)es, pillars, obelisks and all kinds o( artistic buildin)s, mostly placed and built with )reat taste. “ne can easily ima)ine how extensive these pleasure )ardens must be. Althou)h, without ever havin) seen them, one could not possibly ima)ine how wonder(ully beauti(ul they are, and how the art, without betrayin) itsel(, has mana)ed to imitate nature - yes, even improve it. Let me now speak brie(ly o( the most renowned o( these country estates that are (requently attended by visitors. The buildin)s themselves, alon) with their households, I will leave (or another chapter. First, let me discuss Wilton House, o( the Duke o( ”embroke, close to Salisbury. A pleasant stroll takes one alon) the banks o( a somewhat wide, streamin) river. ’ear the house, a beauti(ully covered brid)e arches over the water. At the end, another brid)e brin)s one back to the other side

ENGLAND: PART ONE a)ain, althou)h this one is very plain and completely hidden behind a water(all, where the entire river plummets several (eet downwards over a stone dam. “ne will walk, on and o((, closely alon) the river and throu)h little shrubs planted alon)side this water. “n a mountain that is seemin)ly attached to this place, another bit o( shrubbery han)s, and a (ew temples rise. A bath, and some antiques o( less importance, help decorate Wilton House. Here, one will also (ind all sorts o( stran)e plants, cedars, and plane trees that are over 100 years old. ’ow, I will move on to ‘r :eck(ords Fonthill Estate, where the most extensive and voluptuous ve)etation accompanies a wide piece o( water. “n the other side, ones view will (all on a mountain, covered with sheep. The only pity is that they have allowed the )round to remain a bit too bumpy, which makes it impossible to take six steps without havin) to climb or descend. Here, one can admire a lovely natural cave hewn out o( the rocks, only vaulted (rom above with square stone blocks upon which the park is built. Underneath, it has several under)round pathways. “ne o( the most )randiose pleasure )ardens in En)land is (ound at ‘r Hoares )arden at Stourhead. There is a lar)e basin o( water located in the centre o( the park, which is (illed with the water (rom hi)her wells and always maintains the same depth. Throu)h a sluice, this water crashes (rom a hei)ht o( 30 (eet down into a lower lyin) basin that is separated (rom the upper basin by a dam. Finally, a(ter havin) put hal( a dozen water mills into motion, the water mer)es with a small river. Around that considerable basin, enclosed

JOHAN MEERMAN by rather hi)h, wooded mountains, the stroll ascends unnoticeably and then descends steeply a)ain. “ne is taken across the pond twice once by crossin) a ma)ni(icent ninety- (oot, one-arched brid)e, and once by crossin) the dam. The views over the place itsel( are most stunnin). ‘oreover, various inventive and stylish objects improve this park. For instance, one can (ind an amazin) pantheon (ull o( sculptures there, and a Temple o( the Sun which does not have any adornments apart (rom one )ilded sun in the middle o( the ceilin). “nce a)ain, a lovely natural cave lies a)ainst the )randeur o( these buildin)s. It is planted (ull o( trees and equipped with water deities, with cascades streamin) down. In a rock (ace, beneath the shadow o( heavy wood, there is also a hermita)e with walls o( tree trunks, and a thatched roo(. The public road runs partially throu)h this place, and, when walkin) around the estate, one would have to cross it twice. To avoid havin) to cross the road, one can either cross a bow-like arch that is camou(la)ed by an imitation rock hi)her up, or one can take their way down throu)h several arched and (aintly slopin) tunnels. Some places I have already had to mention when I spoke o( the ma)ni(icence o( some o( En)lands views. The parks o( ‘ount Ed)cumbe House were laid out in such a way that the view one has (rom this )arden seems in(initely lar)er. Sometimes one can suddenly overlook everythin), and other times only several objects allow themselves to be seen. Throu)h han)in) shrubberies, the stroll descends si)ni(icantly in several places. In one place, one can (ind a lar)e oran)ery with very tall oran)e trees, and a little temple

ENGLAND: PART ONE elsewhere. In the centre o( the starrebosch7 is a lar)e circle, surrounded by cedars, in (ront o( which stand several well- preserved Roman urns and a sarcopha)us. In )eneral, ‘ount Ed)cumbe is sometimes more consistently, and sometimes more wildly, desi)ned than most En)lish country estates.8 An alley between rocks and a previous hermita)e increases the charm o( the lovely and well-situated Kin)s Weston. ;roome, the estate o( Lord ;oventry, has a deli)ht(ully constructed park and )ardens. “ne is taken a lon) way around the location, the middle point o( which is the house. Sometimes this path )oes throu)h the open (ield, sometimes over irre)ular paths. Amon)st the jewels o( ;roome are a white )othic church, an oran)ery built by Adam, a charmin)ly located small )rotto, and a rotunda that lies somewhat hi)her and has a wide view. In the park, one will discover a lar)e area o( water, many deer, and the beauti(ul area surroundin) it. Ha)ley and the Leasowes are popular destinations near :irmin)ham. Lord Lyttletons Ha)ley is mostly (orest on a mountain it contains both clearin)s and denser parts, and o((ers various views o( Ha)ley and its surroundin)s. “ne can deduce (rom the verses (rom various sources that the builders must have vividly (elt the beauty o( nature, and their obli)ation to Him who (ormed it. The rest o( the (orest o( Ha)ley is (urnished by some temples and )arden houses, small water(alls, a pond, and a buildin), which is situated

7 In Dutch, this often refers to forests that are shaped like stars. 8 Footnote by ‘eerman In this state I have seen this place thirteen years ago: although I doubt whether it has not suffered too much in the last war, when an attack on Plymouth by the French (leet was (eared.

JOHAN MEERMAN entirely on top o( the mountain and is meant to look like a castle. The Leasowes also boast some (ine water(alls, and extensive views, but otherwise the scenery there is a little too bare, and one would sooner call it a walk throu)h meadows than a walk throu)h a country estate. In Yorkshire, places such as Studley, Hack(all, ”lompton, and Harwood are indescribably beauti(ul and noteworthy. (ormer two belon) to the survivin) dau)hter o( ‘r Aislabie, who hersel( is already an elderly widow the latter two belon) to Lord Lascelles. Studley and Hack(all, situated only a (ew miles apart, are the epitome o( enchantin) art and wild, bold nature. Studley is in the shape o( a circular valley, which one can almost circumambulate twice once at the bottom, and once at the top. At the bottom there are several lar)e stretches o( water with water(alls, re)ularly interspersed with lawns and )roves, which provide an excellent landscape desi)n. Windin) paths surround it. “n the slope o( the mountains, one can see parts that are covered in woods, and parts that are covered in )rass, interspersed with trees and paths. Here and there, one will (ind temples, salons, and other buildin)s and restin) places. Studley was constructed 60 years a)o. As a result, the trees there have reached a hei)ht that is not o(ten (ound in many other places. The place is extraordinarily well maintained and shows excellent taste in everythin), except (or the water(alls. There are no views overlookin) the surroundin) areas. However, the embellishments that make Studley stand out the most and make it the only one o( its kind

ENGLAND: PART ONE are the honourable ruins o( an old Abbey, (ormerly known by the name o( Fountains Abbey.9 The land on which this relic o( a by)one era is situated lies next to the actual country estate o( ‘r Aislabie. To)ether with the buildin), it was purchased by him over the course o( (i(teen years (or the sum o( 18,000 pounds sterlin), on which he, nonetheless, receives an interest o( 300 pounds sterlin). The abbey is situated at the end o( a lon) valley. From the hill top, one is led to the abbey throu)h this valley, constantly accompanied by a babblin) brook, o( which the (low has un(ortunately been re)ularised too much by arti(icial steps. The various buildin)s belon)in) to the Abbey, which are all built up out o( blue limestone (rom the nei)hbourin) rocks, previously took up (ive Dutch mor)ens, and currently cover at least one and a hal( Dutch mor)ens. The roo( o( the church, is, o( course, not there anymore. A square tower still stands it is hollow on the inside and attached to the transept that reaches to the side (rom which one came. “ne will look in vain (or its brother on the other side. The pillars have remained standin), but as they do not have anythin) to carry anymore, they now stand on their own at equal distance (rom each other. Several trees have sprun) up between them. The window at one end was set in an enormously hi)h and wide arch that is admired to this day. The len)th o( the church is remarkable. All this to)ether has an irresistible in(luence on the ima)ination, and when lookin) at Fountains Abbey, a hundred thou)hts, which

9 This ruined Cistercian monastery is nowadays still referred to as Fountains Abbey.

JOHAN MEERMAN

I do not wish to dissect, arise in ones mind. ‘oreover, it was (ounded in 1282,10 and the times o( the Re(ormation coincide with those o( its down(all. “ne will discover several remains o( the monastery, the burial place o( the monks, their dinin) room with kitchen and orchestra, their )arden, vaulted passa)es, a chapel, and the like. However, with re)ards to (lawlessness and splendour they cannot compete with the church Ima)ine a meanderin) river, which (lows with a (ast stream throu)h three or (our mountains and rocks. The mountains, whose bases touch each other, are entirely covered with (orest and striped by water(alls that drop (rom all sides o( the mountain into the river. Then ima)ine a natural path, cut out o( wood, which leads alon) some o( those water(alls, (irst )oin) down and then steeply uphill. It o((ers wide views here and there, and (inally, on the top o( the mountain, an undisturbed panoramic view o( the entire area. “n the mountain next to it, a dilapidated castle raises its walls (rom the woods. When one envisions this, one has sketched a rou)h outline o( the un(or)ettable Hack(all, but not seen the vivid colours o( an exquisitely beauti(ul nature that is le(t to (end (or itsel(. All that the builders have done is cut the trees, place the necessary benches to rest on and a (ew simple houses, one at the top, and one at the bottom. ”lompton is entirely without equal. For twenty years there was nothin) more than bare pieces o( rock, which the rabbits

10 Meerman provides the wrong year, as it was actually founded in 1132 (Bethell 12).

ENGLAND: PART ONE used as a dwellin). Since then, several parts have been covered with earth and plants, and the most pleasant paths were constructed between the rocks. “n the side lies a lar)e basin o( water, in which there are also several rocks resemblin) islands. The water creates an inlet in the cli((s. This inlet was )iven the name the ”ort o( :rest. The rocks here are situated in a most surprisin) manner they look as i( they were thrown down. The tips o( some stick out o( the water. “thers have narrow cracks throu)h which the path leads, and yet others have complete holes in them. Some rocks han) over so (ar that one can sit underneath them. They are named a(ter their shapes, such as the )iants bed, and the lions mouth. In short, the place could be called a windin) (orest o( rocks.11 It is small, yet constructed in such a way that one would need a lot o( time to become (amiliar with all the windin)s o( this maze. They have certainly taken advanta)e o( its location, and where possible, beauti(ul and wide views were spared. Harwood is one o( the most cheer(ul pleasure )ardens in En)land. :ehind the house, one will (ind some rollin) )rassland with, at its base, a beauti(ul basin o( water. A path runs alon)side this, and one can then climb up a)ain and make a very elaborate circle. Very (ew locations are able to match the loveliest o( views o( both the mountains and the valleys around, and o( the water, on the other side o( which

11 The lake, rocks, and surrounding pleasure gardens are now known as Plumpton Rocks.

JOHAN MEERMAN the ve)etable )arden is situated. Here and there, artistic buildin)s are taste(ully constructed. When previously mentionin) the surroundin) re)ions, I already discussed both places o( ‘r Duncombe, which are also decorated with some small temples. When discussin) the beauti(ul estates o( Yorkshire, Sir John Goodrickes :ramham ”ark deserves to be mentioned as well, althou)h it is not planted entirely accordin) to modern taste. Here one will (ind )rand lanes, hed)es o( a hei)ht that exceeds the ima)ination, beauti(ul ponds and water(alls, lovely (lowerbeds and lawns, extensive views, and some embellishments borrowed (rom architecture. ;hatsworth, in county Derby, belon)s to the Duke o( Devonshire. Except (or a broad terrace alon) the Derwent, the (ountains here are especially peculiar and the only si)ni(icant ones that I have seen in En)land. The most remarkable o( these (ountains are a cascade that (lows (rom the steps o( a mountain behind the house a (ountain in a di((erent spot that spouts up to 80 (eet hi)h, and another one that spouts water up to 90 (eet. Lord Harcourts ’uneham ;ourtenay has, aside (rom its lovely terrace, a nicely enclosed (lower bed, a )rotto, a temple, and, between them, the busts o( (amous men (rom both the past and present. A wooden oran)ery is removed durin) the summer, and the trees, which are planted in pots, always remain where they are. :ecause o( its decorations, the back wall o( the parish church, which is preserved within the boundaries o( this country house, imitates the entrance o( a valuable temple. ’evertheless, the “x(ord area receives the most )lory because o( :lenheim and Stowe. I will need to discuss

ENGLAND: PART ONE

:lenheim, the seat o( the ‘arlborou)h (amily, more than once a(ter this. As a country house, :lenheim is especially noteworthy because o( its )rand layout. The (irst entrance to the park is )rand beyond all ima)ination. From here, one can see the royal house, an area o( water o( 150 Dutch mor)ens with a Venetian brid)e over it,12 and a column erected in the honour o( the renowned Duke John in the distance. In addition, there are extensive lawns, beauti(ul trees, a statue here and there, a temple, and a (ew substantial cascades. “therwise, there is not much decoration, althou)h it is well maintained, as is the lar)e park in which people are accustomed to ride around. There are some pleasant views, yet none o( these are exceptional. Stowe, whose owner is the ‘arquess o( :uckin)ham, has already been (amous (or a lon) time thanks to many stories and prints, and (ame has probably never been more ri)ht(ully obtained. I( the Graces13 themselves would have taken it upon themselves to plant and decorate Stowe, it could not have been completed more success(ully. It is (illed, but not overloaded, with temples, triumphal arches, columns, and all kinds o( art(ul buildin)s a total o( 30, and a sense o( )ood taste is re(lected in their placement just as much as in their construction. There is also a lovely stretch o( )rass in (ront o(

12 Footnote by ‘eerman This bridge was built over a small brook by the first owner of Blenheim, and only then he broadened the brook. This )ave cause to the (ollowin) lines The brid)e his proud ambition shews / His bounty like the water (lows. 13 Also known as the Charites, goddesses that personify grace, charm, and beauty in Greek mytholo)y ;harites.

JOHAN MEERMAN the house and a lar)e area o( water with a covered brid)e. Hi)h and bloomin) with woodland, Stowe unites in itsel( all the beauty that the most ea)er eyes and the most untamed ima)ination would be capable o( evokin). Especially the Elysian Fields14 on the other side o( the Styx are more sensuous than any poet (rom Greece or Rome has ever been able to paint. The only thin) Stowe lacks is views overlookin) the surroundin) areas, and some o( the beauti(ul buildin)s with which the place is strewn are not very well maintained. In the area o( London, one usually visits the pleasant )ardens o( Kensin)ton, as well as Lord ;lives ;laremont, which is mountainous and wooded, with a beauti(ul pond (rom which an island rises. A castle stands on the hi)hest point o( this estate. Syon House, owned by the Duke o( ’orthumberland, stands almost on the banks o( the Thames and is built most charmin)ly and well maintained. The Duke o( ’ewcastles “atlands is (amous (or its broad and )reen terrace situated alon) an equally wide and windin) water, with an incomparable )rotto on one side, and an un(inished replica o( the Temple o( the Sibyl at Tivoli on the other side. It has an excellent view all around. Woburn Farm, currently rented by Lord Lou)hborou)h, mostly consists o( a (orest on a mountain, with pleasant walks, temples, salons, the ruins o( a church, and well-preserved views overlookin) the surroundin) areas, o( which the river is one o( its bi))est

14 In Greek mythology it was originally the paradise to which heroes were sent on whom the Gods conferred immortality. Later, entrance was gained by a righteous life (BE).

ENGLAND: PART ONE jewels. ;hiswick, owned by the Duke o( Devonshire, is a bit old (ashioned, but still not badly built. It is (urnished with sculptures, vases, salons, and pillars. Lord Tylneys place, south o( London, is mountainous and wooded. A beauti(ul )rotto at the end is un(ortunately situated on the water(ront o( a polluted lake.15 The recently deceased lord, however, pre(erred to stay in Italy instead o( in his motherland with his ancestral possessions. “n both o( my journeys to En)land, I (ailed to visit Kew ”alace. Richmond ”alace is only worth seein) because o( its wide and slopin) terrace alon) the Thames. From all the pleasure )ardens that surround London, I will not hesitate to choose ”ainshill as my (avourite. Just twenty years a)o, the entire )rounds that the deli)ht(ul ”ainshill covers nowadays were a mere, barren moor. It was )iven its name because o( the di((iculties attached to it. ‘r Hopkins, who commissioned ”ainshill, is still the owner. Domestic mis(ortunes, however, have caused him to have such a dislike (or it that he hardly ever )oes there anymore, and this Eden no lon)er holds any charm (or His Lordship. There is a lot o( woodland and water, and the )round is mountainous. “ne can enjoy )rand views o( both the )rounds and the surroundin) areas, especially (rom a square tower that is 100 steps hi)h. The (ine )rass, the multiple islands in the water, and the brid)es over the water, the suitable placement o( the trees,

15 John Tylney, 2nd Earl of Tylney of Castlemaine (1712-1784) owned at least two estates, Tylney Hall and Wanstead. Tylney Hall is located to the southwest of London, however, it is Wanstead (located to the northeast of London) that has a grotto next to a lake ("The Owners of Wanstead").

JOHAN MEERMAN and the lovely buildin)s o( entertainment produce new si)hts every minute. A )othic temple is situated in the middle o( a (orest. A natural, althou)h exquisitely beauti(ul )rotto, which also serves as a brid)e, and a nice hermita)e that can be seen at the end o( a bleak pine (orest are both elements that inspire pleasant ponderin)s. A temple o( :acchus in the style o( Greek architecture, with a statue o( this God in the centre, completes the splendour and taste that are uni(ied with the loveliest nature in ”ainshill as i( they were interwoven. With re)ards to the (arm animals in En)land, it is well known that the cattle, sheep, pi)s, and horses are outstandin). The cattle have lon)er horns than here in the Dutch Republic. As I have previously mentioned, the incredible multitudes o( sheep that )raze in the surroundin)s o( Salisbury and Dorchester (ind (ine (ood in the short )rass that )rows on the commons in these re)ions. In a six-mile radius o( Salisbury, 600,000 o( this use(ul livestock can be (ound. A kind o( horned sheep is (requently seen in En)land, especially in Essex. The number o( horses in the kin)dom is equally considerable, althou)h the )ood ones cost as much and are as hard to )et a hold o( as elsewhere. Stallions, as I have been told, are not allowed to be exported out o( the country. I will have to discuss the horses that are suitable (or racin) at a later point The number o( deer in the parks is incredibly hi)h. ‘ore than 1,000 were reported to live in Studley Royal ”ark alone. Dovedale is (amous (or its proli(eration o( (oxes. There is also a lar)e abundance o( hares and rabbits in En)land. At Harwood, hares ran around by the dozens in the evenin). The poultry is the same as in the Dutch Republic, except in the

ENGLAND: PART ONE

’orth o( En)land, where one will (ind moor(owl in the hi)h moors, which is actually native to Scotland. This bird is the size o( an avera)e chick, its (lesh is blackish, and surpasses any other )ame meat that I know o( as a delicacy, i( eaten at the ri)ht time and cooked properly. There is also an abundance o( )eese and ducks, and on the road between Harwich and London, entire (locks o( )eese are driven to the capital. There is an indescribable di((erence in the abundance o( (ish on each side o( the coast. For example, near Liverpool almost nothin) more than crabs and lobsters are cau)ht, while the coast o( Wales o((ers rich stocks o( all sorts o( (ish. Southampton provides the entire capital with oysters. The rivers are (illed with salmon and trout. ‘ost o( the common (ish that swim in our rivers can also be (ound, althou)h perch does not )et the appreciation it deserves. I will end this chapter with a report on the collections o( natural history. With re)ards to this, the :ritish ‘useum in London deserves the (irst place. “( the 25 rooms in which this national collection is kept, there are twelve with printed books, (our with manuscripts, two with antiquities and Etruscan vases, two with household )oods o( the residents o( the islands in the ”aci(ic “cean, and (ive are (illed with natural objects. Ei)ht directors are entrusted with the care o( all o( this and they are assi)ned livin) quarters in the buildin) itsel( or one o( its win)s. The (ront o( the house is also (illed with models and old inscriptions, and even the basements, which are not open to the public, are used as stora)e rooms. The rooms dedicated to natural history, which are the only rooms considered here, stand out especially because o( their

JOHAN MEERMAN mineral kin)dom. “ne can see a lar)e number o( (ossils here. Amon)st the crystals, there is a cubic-shaped piece o( enormous thickness. Also displayed here are )hastly stones that are removed (rom the human body and the petri(ied cranium o( a Roman soldier and his sword, both (ound in the Tiber. With re)ards to the plant kin)dom, this museum contains the most beauti(ul herbaria and a collection o( di((erent types o( wood. The animal kin)dom is also very comprehensive and, primarily, a lar)e quantity o( rare horn- shaped shells is displayed. The most intact mummy o( Europe is kept here. Additionally, one will see, amon)st the weird phenomena that the human body sometimes produces, a horn the size o( approximately (ive inches that has )rown (rom a womans head and is bent in the (ront Sir Ashton Lever, the collector o( a very elaborate collection o( art and curiosity, had been )ranted permission around two years a)o to discard these possessions by means o( a lottery. A total o( 20,000 tickets, each costin) one )uinea, all provided a chance to win the one price, which was comprised o( the entire museum. Un(ortunately, he only sold 6,000 tickets. The lottery proceeded, and the collection became the property o( someone else.16 ’evertheless, everythin) remains at his house (or now, with the permission o( him and the new owner, and, to the bene(it o( the new owner, one pays a hal( crown to visit it. The layout is superb. Aside (rom the thin)s bein) held in

16 There were actually 36,000 tickets printed of which 8,000 were sold. The winner was James Parkinson (1730-1830), a land agent, whose wife had bought the winning ticket (Kell, Torrens).

ENGLAND: PART ONE the hall, the lovely stairs, and a side-room, there are thirteen lar)e and small rooms upstairs and six rooms downstairs, all (illed with curiosities. The (irst three rooms that one will see when one has climbed the stairs are adjacent to each other and have a strikin) e((ect. They are connected by what seem more arches than doors. At the (ar end, there is a lar)e mirror, which re(lects all the items in the three rooms. :ecause o( the extensiveness o( the collection, there are many similar and childish thin)s. Amon)st other thin)s, one will (ind a )reat number o( colour(ul peacocks to (ill the space. With )reat precision, the name o( each item is attached to it on a printed or handwritten note. Well-stu((ed birds are the most plenti(ul in this cabinet, and it surpasses the :ritish ‘useum in this respect. The couple o( )reat ar)uses (rom :eijin) that are kept here are stunnin) and at least three times lar)er than common pheasants. They are )rey and the tail o( the male is (illed with round eyes. Three small stu((ed lions, which were raised in the Tower o( London, are also exhibited here. The collection o( dried (ish, prepared by ;aptain ;ook on his last journey, deserves attention as well. At Sir Ashtons one will see a lot o( domestic marble and crystals, alon) with many (ossils, althou)h it appears that other minerals are (ar less abundant. The (amous and recently deceased Dr Hunter bequeathed in his testament his (ine cabinet o( natural curiosities, anatomic preparations, (irst editions, other valuable works, and, particularly, coins to Glas)ow University.17 However, it

17 Glasgow University still owns his collection, which can be found in the universitys museum, The Hunterian.

JOHAN MEERMAN needs to remain in London (or 30 years a(ter his death, where most o( it is kept in one room. The executors have )ranted permission to visit it. With re)ards to anatomy, the displays o( in(ected limbs and parts o( the human body are the stren)ths o( this museum. The most beauti(ul and rarest pieces o( both domestic and (orei)n minerals are kept here as well. In addition to this, there is an exhaustive collection o( insects and plant seeds. Dr Hunters brother, sur)eon Hunter, owns a collection that is almost entirely dedicated to anatomy, but which deserves all attention nonetheless. He has prepared each piece with his own hands and accordin) to his own method. His studies are predominantly (ocussed on the sensory or)ans, vital or)ans, and sexual or)ans o( animals, and he has succeeded in makin) the most remarkable observations re)ardin) anatomy. In the wide array o( animals, he (ound some who have up to (ive hearts and even ones with no heart at all. He also (ound others where the stomach, hearts, and sexual or)ans are completely the same. In a common earthworm, he discovered ten hearts. Some o( the )rottoes at country estates can also be considered as collections o( natural history. Some that immediately come to mind are the )rottoes at “atlands and ”ainshill, and the one owned by Lord Tylney. It has been estimated that the )rotto at “atlands cost the Duke o( ’ewcastle 15,000 pounds sterlin). It consists o( several chambers and passa)eways and has two levels above one another. The lower level is composed predominantly o( (lint and o( stone (rom Gloucestershire, which, because o( the

ENGLAND: PART ONE holes hollowed out by nature itsel(, has been re(erred to as honeycomb. The upper level consists mainly o( Derbyshire spar. Especially the lar)e quantity o( coral, (ossils, )astropod shells, and sea shells, which have been arran)ed with a )reat deal o( taste, make the )rotto brilliant. In this respect, the other two )rottoes cannot be compared to the )rotto at “atlands, as this )rotto also does not lack domestic stones, althou)h the natural quality o( the one at ”ainshill is (avoured by many above the art o( the )rotto at “atlands. “n ;li(ton Hill, stran)ers are also shown an under)round )rotto in a )arden. Althou)h it is not beauti(ully constructed, it is well worth a visit because o( the crystals and shell(ish out o( which it is composed. The :ristol stone alone, which is not (ound in vast quantities anymore, (orms the outer layer o( the pillars that support the ceilin).

ENGLAND: PART TWO

England: Part Two The Inhabitants

JOHAN MEERMAN

Fig. 9: Map of England, marked with places Meerman mentions in this chapter

ENGLAND: PART TWO

From the land and its spoils, I will now move on to discussin) the nation itsel(. ’onetheless, to paint a )eneral picture o( the En)lish character would mean that I expose mysel( to the most ri)ht(ul and most deserved critiques. To complete such a thin) success(ully, one would (irst have to spend a lon) time with a people – an interaction that needs to take place in all positions and ranks. The time my circumstances have allowed me to interact with the :ritish does not su((ice in this respect. What is also required, and even harder to obtain, is a most per(ect jud)ement to discern the soul o( a people and, subsequently, to collect out o( thousands o( character traits only those that exclusively (orm the )enius o( the nation that needs to be depicted. Ultimately, a comparative knowled)e o( the people o( other nations has to be included, as otherwise the comparison is not (easible. However, no matter how )ood the portrayal is, such a description almost always tempts many people to come to a rash jud)ement, as they want to apply the characteristics that a (avoured author has assured them are part o( the nations people to all o( those people, re)ardless o( how little they sometimes deserve it. I will also not diver)e (rom my plan here, and only write down those thin)s I have seen and observed mysel(. In En)land, one will (ind (ewer misshapen and more beauti(ul people than in other countries. The men and women are both o(ten tall, have a (ine taille, are well-proportioned, and come with a (irm )ait yet the )low o( health is more present upon the countenance o( the men than the women. The countenances o( the most becomin) women are o(ten pale, especially o( those o( a hi)her status. It seems that in

JOHAN MEERMAN

London men are also better than women at endurin) the exhaustions o( stayin) awake, drinkin), and other irre)ular behaviour (or each beauti(ul woman, one will (ind hundreds whose early withered looks serve as evidence that breakin) natures laws does not always )o unpunished. “n the other hand, in some counties and cities, o( which amon)st the latter ’ewcastle especially stands out, meetin) a (emale resident who has neither a blushin) (ace nor a well-shaped (i)ure is the exception to the rule. :ecause o( the prevalent practice o( vaccination, it has also become rare to see the traces o( childhood diseases on the inhabitants. I(, in this nation, there was not an internal resilience that triumphed over all injuries, the upbrin)in) o( youn)sters would not be able to shape people that will, at some point, be able to excel amon)st their (ellow humans. I am not talkin) about those who are trained in a speci(ic trade, nor o( the way in which judicious and a)reeable elders care (or their buildin)s, but o( the public and communal upbrin)in), which is still pre(erred by many over a domestic one. For the boys, this lasts (rom primary school up until the time that they leave “x(ord, and how little they learn in both will become su((iciently apparent when I discuss the sciences. ‘ost o( the boardin) schools (or youn) ladies are seen by the En)lish as masterworks o( (oolish and pernicious institutions. Dancin), sin)in), and music are considered by many people in this kin)dom to be the most important subjects which )irls o( a hi)her class should be tau)ht. Drawin) and the practice o( ele)ant needlework, alon)side the learnin) o( some broken French take second place, while all that enriches the spirit and

ENGLAND: PART TWO

(eeds the mind and heart can take third or (ourth place. All knowled)e, there(ore, that such students )ain a(terwards is more due to their own research than the care o( their tutors. However, (or the children o( poorer people, Sunday schools have recently been opened with much success as they provide all kinds o( use(ul education outside the hours o( public service to those children who must work with their parents or help in the household, as well as to those who would otherwise abuse the rest o( this day with mischie(. The other primary schools are almost on par with those in the Dutch Republic, and it is also a rare thin) in En)land to (ind someone who is illiterate. The interaction between the sexes is still a lon) way o(( (rom bein) as common as it is in the rest o( Europe. ‘any men see women as nothin) more than bi) children with whom one can sometimes have a )ood time, but who could never share the same interests that men take to heart. The many clubs, or societies, o( all sorts and the co((ee-houses where men spend their (ree time alone, help to con(irm the )ap between the sexes and to enlar)e it. At balls, one will sometimes (ind one )entleman (or every (ive or six ladies. It is known that women o( all ranks need to leave the table a(ter havin) eaten the dessert. As lon) as they are still at the table, the conversation is (orced and will not include topics o( any importance, and there are o(ten moments o( silence. They think the world can be the better understood the more it is talked about in terms o( trivialities. Yet, as soon as the lady o( the house has )iven the si)n to the people o( her sex to rise, all ton)ues are loosened. Even i( matters o( importance are not

JOHAN MEERMAN always discussed, at least one hears people talk with jud)ement, common sense, and a natural cheer(ulness they will tell pleasant stories, and no matter how lon) the conversation may last, it never becomes borin) because o( silent pauses. “ne must also con(ess that, while all this has its amiable exceptions, in )eneral, the conversation o( women is very mediocre. Even when they are to)ether, so I have been told by a reliable source, there are a )reat many whispers and smiles a never-(ailin) mark o( poor upbrin)in) and they do not possess anythin) more than the talent o( their French sisters to enliven, lead, and keep the conversation )oin) by spirit and joy(ulness in a pleasant way. The marria)es are becomin) more calculated and more re)arded as bein) happy or unhappy, dependin) on how many thousands the parties possess, or, as the En)lish sayin) )oes, worth thousands. So not only do the super(icial public and the parents, who lack true love (or their children, jud)e, but the youn) people themselves (ixate on it as a means to improve their status. The sixteen-year-old )irl, when she ima)ines a marria)e, envisions the embrace o( her lover and the (rolickin) o( the children she will bear to a lesser extent than the carria)e with six horse that she will stipulate, the jewels with which she will shine, and the amusement that she will enjoy wholeheartedly. What the consequences o( this will be (or society and how many there have already arisen by now can easily be checked. The number o( court cases re)ardin) adultery and divorce also )row by the day (ewer people are )ettin) married the upbrin)in) o( children is bein) ne)lected and with the mothers milk the smarter o((sprin)

ENGLAND: PART TWO consumes the notion o( )randeur, and when it is their turn to marry they do not take an example (rom the detachment and discord between their parents, which stems (rom the same source. All in all, the desire (or a((luence and entertainment increases exponentially. It is known that the wealth in En)land is divided unequally, because the oldest son inherits almost all possessions (rom his (ather, while the amount o( land that is le(t to the remainin) brothers and sisters is very limited. This is not only the case (or lords and kni)hts, who, besides their indivisible estates, also have a title that can only be passed on to one o( their children the wealthy o( a lesser rank (ollow this custom as well. “nly the eldest son, and even the eldest dau)hter i( there are no sons, can become inheritor and is called, especially when bein) re(erred to as a desirable object when it comes to marria)es, an heir or an heiress, which is somethin) the Dutch lan)ua)e does not have a word (or. Still, what is remarkable is that the youn)er children, instead o( envyin) the eldest siblin), uni(ormly approve o( the arran)ements their parents make, and the customs o( the nation with re)ards to this, to such an extent that they re)ard and respect the heir as the head, protector, and maintainer o( the (amily, and the more he possesses, the more he is esteemed. Althou)h in other countries, where each childs interest is the same as the other, which is incontrovertibly pre(erred in )eneral, o(ten hate(ul quarrels and jealousies arise over trivialities when dividin) the parental possessions An income o( at least (ive tons is the privile)e o( more than one Lord. Several people o( a lower rank have even been )iven

JOHAN MEERMAN two or three tons a year – althou)h one notices daily that the expenses o( these rich men exceed their income by (ar. The splendour o( their houses, country estates, (urniture, carria)es and horses, servants, and sometimes entertainment and unknown expenses are more than capable o( diminishin) that abundance. All that will be le(t is a belated remorse over their misuse o( their (ormer (ortune. The clothin) o( men is possibly the only thin) in En)land that is still marked by its old simplicity. ’ever, except durin) (easts at court, does one wear anythin) other than tailcoats. In contrast, (or the women, the desire (or embellishments has increasin)ly become more popular. Indeed, it has even become the yardstick by which they measure their accomplishments, talents, and hairstyles a)ainst those o( their (ellow women. The hair in particular is the (avoured object o( their care throu)h the capable hands o( the hairdresser the lack thereo( is well-compensated. This is done not merely throu)h tresses or plaits, but even throu)h entire wi)s, o( which the London shop windows display as much diversity as they do (or mens wi)s. ’o hairstyle is so wild, so unnatural or so sou)ht a(ter that it will not (ind a patron anywhere. It is con(irmed by the thousands o( examples (ound in St Jamess ”ark, as well as in every other public place, that art can misshape that which nature has destined to be jewellery (or women. Amon)st people o( hi)h re)ard, as well as the courtesans, rou)e is (requently used. Still, here one paints their cheeks, whereas in France they slather it on. A (ew secretly use other colours the invention o( an émail or (ine )laze, which is

ENGLAND: PART TWO brushed across the entire (ace and neck and has to dry in (ront o( a hot (ire (or a considerable time, can last almost invisibly (or several weeks, without the subtle movements o( the (ace causin) it to crack or splinter. The invention, I believe, o( such an émail has not )one without di((iculty this mask, which prevents natural perspiration, has already snatched the most beauti(ul woman o( En)land (rom the prime o( her li(e. “( the disastrous consequences o( such coquetry that knows no limits, I have now mentioned the most eloquently. The inclination (or embellishment and eye- catchin) hairstyles has even spread amon)st the middle class. The awareness that women in that country have o( each others clothin) is possibly incomparable. Should a (orei)ner also want to copy the customs o( this nation in this manner, take note a hat pinned somewhat di((erently or a ribbon tied somewhat di((erently will betray her, and an entire street will be lookin) her way. With re)ards to the childrens dressin), they do not spend much on it as lon) as they walk around with their hair down, which they do not stop with early. Well- established (armers dress more like the townspeople than they do in the Dutch Republic. ’o people is as (ond o( heavy and hearty (ood as the En)lish nevertheless, nowhere are the kitchens and the )rocery list more lackin) than amon)st the En)lish, with the exception o( the )reat houses. They know almost no (ood preparation, other than cookin) or (ryin) the bi) cuts o( meat and poultry or roastin) the cutlets and even in this, they do not always succeed. They do not salt the (ish much, and it is only throu)h sauces made o( anchovies, lobsters and the like

JOHAN MEERMAN that the (ish becomes tasty. The cookin) o( such ve)etables, which one here only eats steamed, can only please En)lish palates. :roths and soups are prepared increasin)ly more even the use o( ve)etables has multiplied. ’evertheless, they know very little o( picklin) and dryin) such (oods. Althou)h sometimes, they do keep them in brine and vine)ar. ”otatoes are (ound in abundance here, althou)h they are o( a lot lesser quality than ours. In London, one can (ind a popular tavern, or eatery, where one eats only )rilled braisin) steaks or bee( steaks, alon)side other (oods prepared in the same way. The turtle is the )reatest delicacy known in En)land. ‘eals are prepared especially when one or more turtles are brou)ht in they are accustomed to callin) these meals turtle (easts. “ne cuts the turtle into square pieces that are heavily spiced and put into a )ravy-like soup. The price o( turtle increases and decreases, dependin) on how many o( them are imported to the kin)dom at the same time. In the warehouse o( a London merchant who used to trade in turtles, someone told me that they had seen between 70 and 80 turtles to)ether last summer. The amount o( meat consumed in En)land, especially in comparison to the desserts, is incredible. To convince onesel( o( this, one only needs to wander throu)h the lit meat-halls o( any city on a Saturday evenin). In order to record the (ood trends (or their descendants, some members o( the Royal Society, who are accustomed to dinin) to)ether in a tavern be(ore the meetin), have made a habit out o( writin) down very precise descriptions o( each dish brou)ht to their table.

ENGLAND: PART TWO

:reak(ast is eaten late, o(ten a(ter one has )one (or a walk or ride, and is (requently enjoyed in the company o( others. The )reen tea, almost the only thin) people drink here, is (ra)rant and pleasant, althou)h expensive in the country, the tea is always served with the best cream available. Addin) butter instead would also be deli)ht(ul, i( one understands how to salt it, that is. ’evertheless, what kind o( bile will not be (attened by daily spreadin) this butter liberally onto warm bread and )rillin) the bread a(terwards because this is the customary (ood the En)lish eat as they sober up, I do not understand. In the capital, the a(ternoon meal is served by the (irst people around hal( past (ive, althou)h many merchants will have it an hour earlier. However, this mi)ht chan)e when the parliament holds its meetin)s otherwise, should one visit a member o( parliament (or the a(ternoon meal and a merchant (or the evenin) meal, the latter will already have taken place be(ore the (irst one has (inished. In the provinces, one usually dines earlier. However, everywhere the patience o( the stomach is directly in line with ones rank in society. The use o( serviettes is, up to now, only a custom in the )reat houses – in other places the end o( a tablecloth serves the same purpose. “ne devours the (ood rather than chewin) it everythin) is rapidly served at the same time and, in the blink o( an eye, the meal has passed. “ne only yearns to )et ones hands on a bottle. Durin) the meal, not much is drunk each o( the )uests will, however, raise their )lass to propose to a lady or occasionally a )entleman to empty two )lasses to)ether, which

JOHAN MEERMAN is rarely declined. The choice o( wine is made by the one who is )iven the proposal, to which the other will usually subject themselves both will drink to each others health. At the end, a silver pitcher o( beer will sometimes be passed around, which everyone, i( they would like to, will brin) to their lips. As soon as the meal has (inished, the tablecloth is removed everyone (reshens up cheese and (ruits, the ones that are now in season at least, appear. They disappear a)ain soon a(ter to make place (or the wine, which has now been poured into cara(es. :etween two and (our types o( wine will be put on the table. For every toast, all these bottles will be passed around the table and everyone will choose the wine they pre(er. A(ter a (ew )eneral toasts, one by one the )uests will choose a lady, and the women will choose a )entleman, to whose health everyone will drink. Usually, this person will be a (riend, sometimes a crush, or a woman or )irl whose beauty is )reatly admired, which is why one will o(ten hear people say that that woman is the toast o( the town. “ne rarely ne)lects to (ind, even amon)st ones (riends, those who hold the hi)hest rankin)s. I need not assure the reader that youn) misses will not choose to divul)e the interest o( their a((ections in this manner, but will instead mention someone who is not even suspected to be the subject o( their interest. A(ter the toastin) to women and (riends, sometimes the toastin) to sentiments will (ollow this is when one a(ter another everyone shares a wish, upon which everyone will drink to its (ul(ilment, or somethin) like it. How much time is spent like this tends to di((er )reatly. A messa)e (or the ladies, in(ormin) them the tea is ready, is usually the si)n to stand

ENGLAND: PART TWO up, which is not always a pleasant time. I should praise the nation here, (or its people no lon)er require to drink. Durin) my last journey here, I have witnessed no debauchery overall, the topics o( conversation are rather decent and ambi)uous and unbecomin) toasts are )oin) out o( (ashion amon)st respectable (olk. ‘eanwhile, one should (ear that the virtuous trend o( moderation will not persist (or much lon)er. Respectable youn) (olk are be)innin) to )ive themselves to drink, which has been caused by (lattery and the delusion that people will admire their tolerance to it. I( only the hi)hly esteemed youths knew how much in(luence their behaviour has on an entire people – how much more observant they would be o( it! ‘adeira, sherry, and port are the wines (avoured by the En)lish. French red wines have, so (ar, taken the place o( the excellent wines, simply because they are taxed hi)her, and are thus more expensive than the Spanish and ”ortu)uese wines one would not be able to buy a bottle (or less than 55 stuivers. ’evertheless, the wine is really too bland and watery (or the nations ton)ue. I have (requently seen bar )uests ea)erly drink port wine, while the best ;laret, which is what they call the :ordeaux, remained lar)ely untouched. The newest commerce treaty with France, which lowers the taxes o( the wine, will, however, as (ar as I am concerned, not stretch to import it more (requently. The Rhine wine, which )oes under the name o( “ld Hock, re)ardless o( how old it is and how (ar away (rom Hochheim it was made, is similarly not spicy enou)h to be success(ul in En)land. “ther (orei)n wines are solely served durin) the meals at the tables o( the )reat houses

JOHAN MEERMAN because, a(ter the tablecloth has been taken away, only the re)ular wines will be served. In )eneral, the wine is already a point o( objection (or a (amily that receives many )uests. The beers are ale, porter, and small beer o( the (irst, one can (ind a limitless amount o( types in En)land the second is drunk the most, and is very heavy and nutritious – it is brewed better in London than elsewhere. As soon as one has le(t the table, cakes and sandwiches are eaten with the tea. The evenin) meal is not )iven as much attention because o( how late the a(ternoon meal is enjoyed the table will be well-set, but the )uests will only sample the (oods, and a moment later the table is cleared. Ice cream has, (or a while now, become inexplicably popular. However, it is usually served between meals, rather than durin) one o( them. Durin) the summer, one can buy several kinds o( ice cream in all patisseries and public places. Even in the towns surroundin) the capital, one can (ind si)ns that read Ice creams to be sold. Durin) the winter, soup replaces the ice cream. Around three hours be(ore dinner, people )o to the backs o( these shops to enjoy a bowl o( soup, o( which they can choose the type, except (or the warm cakes, which are consumed here in lar)e quantities. “ur traditional Dutch rusk is barely known in En)land even the decent people nibble on the hard, inedible ships biscuits. Aside (rom the drinks I have previously mentioned, other drinks that are (requently enjoyed are punch, ne)us, which is a warm wine with nutme) and su)ar, and rum and brandy, which is drunk by commoners and sometimes mixed with su)ar and water. ‘ilk

ENGLAND: PART TWO punch, which is made o( milk, rum, and su)ar, is not an unusual nor unpleasant drink either. With re)ards to the other ways o( livin), there is no country, with the possible exception o( Venice, where one )ets up later in the mornin). This is done to such extremes by some in the First World that one mi)ht stru))le to believe it. Youths who never see the li)ht o( day be(ore one oclock in the a(ternoon and women who host public déjeuners in the late a(ternoon are not entirely stran)e phenomena. London is a dead city be(ore ten oclock and even be(ore eleven oclock in the mornin). With re)ards to those who have occupations or those who impose such thin)s upon themselves, it is the same everywhere here in En)land it is with only this exception that one tries to do as much as possible be(ore mealtime. There are (ew who do not try to (ree up hal( an hour to spend in a co((ee- house, o( which the number o( those (ound in London is almost countless. They come to read the paper, or meet acquaintances. “thers who have more (ree time will o(ten take out their horses (or a ride in the mornin). ’owhere else are both )enders more dedicated to this healthy exercise than here. The :riton is hal( a centaur, virtually attached to his horse. The women always ride side-saddle. They also o(ten ride on a saddle behind the rider, especially in the middle and (armin) classes. The risin) up and down in the short stirrups when the horse trots, as well as the (lappin) with the arms, does not provide a pleasant appearance o( onesel(. In the mornin), a popular activity amon)st the London ladies is to receive visitors and walk around the shops. Dressin) up and )roomin)

JOHAN MEERMAN themselves also help waste several hours. It is so common (or them to let their hair be done and to dress themselves be(ore the meal because be(ore that, the women are dressed in low- cut ne)li)ees that it is even done in the country estates, in the smallest o( companies and amon)st the closest (riends. A(ter the meal, the clubs and events are a re(u)e (or those who do not want stay to talk or do not enjoy themselves at the place where they have eaten when there are no activities to keep them at home. Durin) the summer, a walk is added to these activities. “( the actual amusement, I will speak explicitly in the next part. Althou)h our carria)es are modelled a(ter En)lish ones, ours surpass theirs with re)ards to decoration. They spoil their carria)es partly by platin) them too much with silver and partly by coverin) them with immense crests, which take up the entire panel o( the door. ;onversely, the horses harnesses, which are silver-plated as well, have a wonder(ul e((ect. The coachmans seat is terribly hi)h. ”art o( his costume is a round wi), while most other servants wear their hair in a ponytail. Sta)e-coaches and post-chaises only di((er (rom carria)es and coupés in that they are made without a box seat. They o(ten use a hi)h cabriolet with two horses, on which one sits so hi)h that one oversees everythin). “ur (our)ons and phaetons are not as popular. In the cities, women o(ten let themselves be carried around in sedan chairs. And all ladies who )o to the court in London usually cram themselves in these sedan chairs, unencumbered by their monstrous pa)nés.

ENGLAND: PART TWO

Servants are a source o( bi) expenditures (or well-o(( (olk. ”orters, servants, coachmen, postilions, and sedan-chair carriers are only dressed in livery. Furthermore, they do not have couriers, valets, and the like. ;ooks, stewards, chambermaids, and housekeepers are, on the other hand, a necessity in all the )reat houses. The rent is very hi)h and )ivin) tips has now completely )one out o( (ashion as, a (ew years a)o, the tips had become so hi)h that every )uest had to pay (our or (ive )uineas (or a bi) meal hosted by a Lord. All kinds o( servants used to )ather in the (ront o( the house to split the sum o( the tips amon)st themselves those who )ave too sparin)ly or re(used to )ive somethin) alto)ether would have to (ear that a bowl o( soup or sauce mi)ht, by accident, land on his clothes durin) the next dinner. When visitin) mansions or country estates, tippin) has remained the custom, as one would expect. “nce a)ain, the several servants know how to bene(it (rom this the porter, who usually has a nice little house at the )ate, will accompany one all the way to the door o( the castle or to the )ardeners residence and will receive one or two shillin)s (or this when one returns at the door o( the castle one will be received by a servant who will call the housekeeper and who will receive a reward (or this as well the housekeeper will )ive a tour o( the buildin) and will )et paid (or this the )ardener will accompany one across the square and will also receive what he has earned. “ne would be lucky to not come across one object or other that has been placed in the sa(ekeepin) o( a special person, as one will have to pay this person (or havin) been shown the object. In hi)hly re)arded houses, all this will

JOHAN MEERMAN cost quite much. ’evertheless, one encounters many places where tippin) only one or two people will su((ice. In )reat houses, there are two tables (or the servants. At the (irst, all those who do not wear livery eat their meals to)ether with the housekeepers and ladys-maids. Their table is (illed with almost everythin) that can be (ound on the )entlemen and ladies table and wine is served. Furthermore, they are served by one or more servants in livery, dependin) on how many people are seated. All other domestic servants eat at the second table. In country estates, so many people eat at this second table that even they stru))le to determine their precise number. I have known households in the country where they allowed the servants to take several trips per week to )o dancin) (or an hour or two in the evenin). ‘oreover, their pride increases in correlation to the social standin) o( their lords or ladies, the character o( whom one can o(ten discern by lookin) at the attitude and manners o( their subordinates. “( the housekeeper and ladys-maids clothin) I need not speak, as one is already (amiliar with the dress style o( En)lands women in this respect. With the exception o( some lar)e hotels in London and the palaces that are built on many country estates, one does not actually encounter many spacious houses owned by individuals. The parlour, which is situated next to the (ront door, is the room where the (amily resides o(ten, i( not always, and de(initely always eats – both with )uests and alone. The apartment, where they receive )uests, is on the second (loor. Antechambers are not very common. The bedrooms are upstairs, usually plain and tidy. ’evertheless, in the

ENGLAND: PART TWO residences o( the distin)uished and rich, especially in the provinces, there is no lack o( entrance halls, antechambers, livin) quarters and state rooms, dinin) rooms, break(ast chambers, )alleries, and so on and so (orth. A(ter the Dutch nation, the En)lish one is likely to be the loveliest with re)ards to residences. However, when it comes to the cleanliness and cleanin) o( the body, they mi)ht win (rom us. ’evertheless, the number o( bedbu)s has, (or some years now, incomprehensibly increased – both in the country and in London. In (act, only a (ew houses in the capital are an exception to this. I will have to speak at len)th o( the (urnishin)s o( En)lish palaces in the section on art. With re)ards to the lesser houses, it will usually su((ice to note that most o( the (urniture is plain wallpaper or boiserie, maho)any tables and chairs, chintz curtains, white cotton bedspreads, and the like. ‘oney is only spent on the apartments, as those are where one meets other people. ’o people travels across its own country more than the En)lish. The roads are made (rom a mix o( rubble and )round, which makes them so hard and )ood that no rain is capable o( penetratin) them. This allows one to ride them with as much ease as i( it were made o( clinkers, without the clatterin) on these that normally bothers the traveller and without tirin) the horse. :y now, the best roads are mainly those leadin) strai)ht to London. They di((erentiate between turnpike-roads and crossroads the latter is )enerally nothin) more than an exceptionally bad (armers road. The other is constructed by private individuals or associations. This is done a(ter they have acquired permission (or this throu)h an act o(

JOHAN MEERMAN

”arliament they are )iven a permit, which also accounts (or the turnpike, as well as a declaration statin) the amount o( toll that may be asked. The abundance o( these turnpikes certainly makes travellin) di((icult and costly. ’evertheless, the upkeep o( the roads demands a lot o( money in the lon) term. Usually one only needs one horse, unless the sta)e-coach was too heavily loaded or a carria)e (or (our persons has been used. The postilion rides the o((-side horse and leads the other horse with a lead. Instead o( havin) a central sha(t between the two horses, the post-horse walks between two short sha(ts. Each pair o( horses, re)ardless o( how many are hitched up to the carria)e, has its own postilion. The keepin) o( sta)e- coaches is done by private individuals and every innkeeper makes sure to own a su((icient number as well. However, he must have permission to do so and keep to the rates that have been determined by ”arliament (or each mile, or twenty minutes, the cost is (our and a hal( stuivers per horse and three stuivers (or the coach. The distance between stations di((ers )reatly they can be between ei)ht and twenty miles apart, althou)h usually one estimates them to be twelve miles apart. This too is a)reed on by the innkeepers. Aside (rom public sta)e-coaches, they do not know post-houses here. ’aturally, everyone can choose the inn to which they would like to be brou)ht. Should one dare to leave this decision to the postilion, one rarely has anythin) to complain about when it comes to their lod)in)s – on the condition that the sta)e- coach was hired (rom a )ood area in the city one came (rom. “ne is usually taken over the main roads at a hi)h speed

ENGLAND: PART TWO when the area is not mountainous, one has the ri)ht to demand to travel ei)ht miles an hour. ‘any postilions are dressed in a red waistcoat and are rewarded with ei)hteen stuivers (or an avera)e sta)e. The carria)es are nice and spacious, most o( them with )lazed windows, and chan)in) carria)es at every station, with all the lu))a)e and what else one carries, takes a mere moment. However, a price to pay (or all this ease and satis(action is the unsa(ety o( the roads, especially within the 30 miles surroundin) London. Almost no day passes without a carria)e, riders or pedestrians bein) assaulted by hi)hwaymen. Well-dressed, on a (ast horse, and sometimes not even the lowest breed o( people, they attack a carria)e at the most unexpected moment, alone or in twos or threes. With a pistol to his chest, they (orce the postilion, who usually has more than one reason to quickly obey, to keep still. Then, they demand the company inside, with the same ur)ent (orcin), to )ive them money, watches, and all the other valuables they mi)ht be carryin) with them. Sometimes, however, to make it more di((icult to be tracked down, they only demand money. The more time they believe to have, the closer they will investi)ate, althou)h one rarely has to (ear that their suitcases mi)ht be removed and taken. Those who patiently let themselves be robbed, have little to (ear o( bein) killed or harmed. Althou)h re)ardless o( what is told about their politeness, the examples o( insolences, threats, and curses with which they do their job are in(initely more numerous. The (ootpads are considered to be more dan)erous than the

JOHAN MEERMAN hi)hwaymen. These are a meaner people, who exercise the same method o( breadwinnin), but by (oot, and this usually )oes paired with hittin), injurin), and sometimes, with the most dread(ul cruelty murder. There are no better precautions a)ainst hi)hwaymen than havin) one or two mounted servants, armed with pistols, ride next to the coach, and avoidin) the London area in the evenin) or at ni)ht. “((icers cannot let themselves be robbed, which is required by the point dhonneur, but have to de(end themselves (or as lon) as possible. “thers )enerally carry a special purse with some )old and silver, should they need it. This is certainly the sa(est thin) to do, as anyone who is travellin) by carria)e and is unexpectedly attacked, risks too much by wantin) to de(end themselves when such a de(ence is not entirely necessary. In the lon) run, (ew o( these culprits run (ree should the police (eel themselves ur)ed to prevent crimes, rather than catch criminals, they mi)ht very well wipe out all this scum very soon. The means that have been used a)ainst them, which have done so well in France are, in En)land, believed to be inter(erin) with (reedom. “ut o( about twenty o( these the(ts, one is punished hi)hwaymen count on the chance o( either not bein) cau)ht, not bein) convicted, or bein) (avoured with the Kin)s pardon. In order to remain more concealed, hi)hwaymen o(ten wear a veil or a mask on their (ace. Far (rom the capital, it is a rarity to hear o( them at all. The number o( inns in En)land is countless and, )enerally, they are nicer than elsewhere – sometimes they are even almost like palaces. In the bi) cities, the most prominent

ENGLAND: PART TWO lod)in)s are re(erred to as hotels, o( which there is one in Liverpool that is beauti(ully built. Downstairs, there is usually a co((ee-room or club where one )oes to read the newspapers. In some places, these hotels do not have a kitchen, which means that those who stay there will have to send (or their (ood (rom a nearby tavern. In an En)lish tavern, one is usually brou)ht to the parlour downstairs (irst, which is very respectably (urnished, and where, in the autumn, a )ood (ire burns the entire day, (or in this country they keep a (ire (or most o( the year. The bedrooms upstairs can also be (amed (or their cleanliness they are situated splendidly and one can rarely complain about the attendance. ’evertheless, (ood and drink are not o( the same standards – that which I have said previously on the matter, is applicable here as well. “ne has to determine, dish by dish what one wishes to have prepared and in a day or two, one will be (inished. Fruits are never provided, and, instead o( dessert, one receives never-endin) )lasses o( deer-horn jelly, and tea cups (illed with steamed apples, )ooseberries, or somethin) similar with the most inedible crust on top, which they )ive the honour o( bein) called tartlets. Sometimes, the inns have counters upon which all the (ood has been spread out and (rom which one can make their choice. The wine is even worse than the (ood, and o(ten there is only brandy. :reak(ast is the most di((icult meal to have at a decent time, (or it is the En)lish habit not to enjoy it at the same place where one has slept. In the southern part o( the kin)dom, the bills usually run hi)h, as the sauces, and sometimes even the preparation o( each dish, are billed separately. ;onversely, one is not

JOHAN MEERMAN char)ed (or lod)in)s or beds the chambermaid receives merely a shillin) per ni)ht (or makin) the beds the caretaker receives a shillin) a day, and the stable boy hal( a shillin) as a tip (or his e((orts. A stran)er is hardly ever char)ed more than a native. Further north, everythin) is cheaper and they do not char)e each dish separately. The En)lish pack very little to carry with them on their journeys and o(ten let that which they wore durin) the day be washed at ni)ht. They mi)ht be )enerous when )ivin) tips, but they also expect )reat attentiveness with re)ards to service. I( one does not experience its recreational activities, one only knows hal( o( the nation. In En)land, they put as much e((ort into their theatre as they do on the other side o( the ;hannel. The theatres are nearly always teemin) with people and the seats are booked a lon) time in advance. The audience is (illed with empathy towards that which is presented to them and is very prepared to let their approval or disapproval o( the play or its actors be known in an unambi)uous way. Aside (rom the opera house and smaller sta)es, there are three bi) and well-decorated theatres in London Theatre Royal, Drury Lane ;ovent Garden Theatre and the Theatre Royal Haymarket. In the (irst two, per(ormances are held in the winter in the last one, per(ormances are held in the summer. I have since learned that on the other side o( London, a (ourth has been opened. The actors usually only spend one season in the capital, a(ter which they scatter across the inland cities to let their talents be admired there (or several weeks as well. “ne can have a seat in the lo)e, and the price o( all boxes, re)ardless o(

ENGLAND: PART TWO how hi)h or low they are, is the same. ’evertheless, in London, should the women wish to be seated on the lowest level, they are not allowed to wear a hat. The lower-class people are allocated two spacious sections above one another that are opposite the sta)e. In one o( them one is able to sit, in the other section one has to stand. All En)lish playhouses have a proscenium with a door on each side, which is (requently used durin) per(ormances. “ne never sees a sou((leur as he is hidden between the screens. The tra)edies o( Shakespeare are (requently per(ormed. However, here and there they leave out some ridiculous scenes. So (ar, I have seen ‘acbeth played with the enchantresses, apparitions and all the other (renzied spectacles that )o with it. Despite the wild, the unnatural, and o(ten the ridiculous that prevails in it despite the more devilish than (eminine character o( Lady ‘acbeth and despite the violence in(licted upon all the rules o( drama in this play, this product o( an indestructible ima)ination is still the (avourite o( many En)lishmen. This is because, aside (rom some surprisin) situations, it also displays the desire (or honour and reven)e, as well as the sel(-reproach that (ollows crimes committed with such sel(-con(ident errors. Richard III, Hamlet, and Kin) Lear are o(ten per(ormed as well. ’ew tra)edies, some o( which have received hi)h praise, distin)uish themselves more by pretty (eelin)s and entertainin) meetin)s than by bein) plot-driven and, especially, by containin) a natural development, (or almost all o( them lack this. ;omedies are (illed with intri)ue. ’onetheless, there are many comic elements, to which the

JOHAN MEERMAN nation has a bi))er inclination than one usually ima)ines, and one can view this as a true depiction o( the En)lish customs. The School (or Scandal by ‘r Sheridan, a ‘ember o( ”arliament, Hi)h Li(e :elow Stairs, a satire about servants, and The Heiress by General :ur)oyne all deserve to be mentioned above all others in this respect. The comedies are nearly always written in prose and the tra)edies in verses o( eleven syllables, without rhyme. In both )enres, there are (requent set chan)es, and with re)ards to this, the theatres in En)land (ar surpass those in other countries. There is also no lack o( small operas, ballets, intermêdes and pantomimes here. :ecause o( the continuous shoutin) (or an encore at every tune that one (inds pleasant or that is sun) well, the (irst two are rather annoyin) the latter two request attentiveness because o( the precious spectacle they )o paired with. An example o( this is “mai, a theatrical per(ormance o( the illustrated atlas, which was part o( the (inal travels o( ;ook. Towards the end, a (ew o( the islanders, who have been visited by the immortal seaman, walk a(ter one another across the sta)e, dressed in the clothes particular to them. The entire piece is (illed with the continuous alternation o( nice displays and surprises. For example, they show a lar)e turtle which moves very naturally and suddenly retracts its head, and a(ter they unnoticeably lowered a child that was hidden under it, throu)h the trapdoor beneath the turtle, someone overturns the supposed animal a(ter which nothin) but its shell remains. They also let pen)uins, in which children are also hidden, walk across the sta)e. In )eneral, when it comes to actors, there is no one like David Garrick in En)land anymore.

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Durin) my (irst journey here, I have had the honour to see this inimitable actor play serious parts, as well as the cheer(ul (arcical ones with the same success. I admired his natural )i(ts, (or he has a )i(t (or imitatin) people and their (acial expressions and (or the studyin) o( their desires, as well as (or everythin) else that one needs to excel in, in this art. ‘rs Siddons is, without a doubt, the one who currently enters the sta)e with the most and best-earned (ame. ’onetheless, she only plays in tra)edies and, more than once, she has been called the queen o( tears because o( her in(luence on the emotions o( her audience. In addition to her youth, a pretty (ace, which is especially important, and a )ood (i)ure, she has a pleasant voice, the complete (eelin) o( that which her role commends her to say, )ood taste in clothin), and that which in women o( her status is rarer impeccable behaviour. She is never re(used entry to any respectable home in London and she is even received )ladly due to her intellect and her talents. In the comedic scene, a ‘rs Abin)ton is renowned. Her on- sta)e adventures are quite di((erent when it comes to her actin), althou)h, she appears to me to excel most when she plays at bein) naive. She never lets it show that it is an act and, althou)h she is nearin) her sixties and is moderately stout, she has preserved all the looseness o( a )irl in her twenties. Amon)st the other actors, one may also discern several other )ood ones the :ristol troupe, the School o( the Siddons, excels especially. There is no En)lish city o( any importance that does not possess a theatre. Some even have rather nice ones. The audiences are always rowdy. In the last city I spoke o(, I

JOHAN MEERMAN witnessed a (ist(i)ht between a )entleman, who had stron)ly expressed his opinion on some lo)e, and some other )entlemen who were already sittin) there. The actors stopped. From all corners o( the room voices shouted Turn him out, which was done in more than one box without much resistance, until he (inally had the luck to be admitted somewhere. In )eneral, anyone who has reserved seats must occupy them with a servant or someone else until he can be seated himsel(. The saddest part o( the En)lish spectacles is the terrible amount o( time they last, without this bein) caused by lon) breaks. ”eople desire to be entertained (or around (ive hours (or the amount o( money they spend on it. The buildin) that houses the Italian opera is lar)e and well decorated the sin)ers are predominantly Italian, and the dancers are (rom the French nation. They only play durin) winter, which is also when they occasionally host masked balls, at which the same thin)s occur that happen at such parties in other countries. ”eople know that indul)in) in (orbidden love is the main )oal o( these )atherin)s, where people appear in dis)uise. It pains me that durin) both o( my journeys I have (ailed to attend the smaller spectacles, where these (olk customs are per(ormed in their ori)inal and unbastardised states. They bear the names Sadlers Wells, the Royal ;ircus, Astleys Amphitheatre and the like. Ranela)h and Vauxhall are the (avoured entertainments o( summer in London and are imitated by cities in the counties. Ranela)h )athers especially respectable people and is open

ENGLAND: PART TWO three times a week a circle-shaped buildin), with two rows o( boxes in the wall and windows above them. “ne column in the centre bears the wei)ht o( the buildin) entirely, althou)h without possessin) the appearance o( a pillar, or any other speci(ic object. This is the only one that does not possess the )ood taste that is apparent everywhere else. Tables and couches stand around the column, as well as in the lo)es. ”eople settle down here to consume tea and sandwiches, as nothin) else o( the sort can be obtained. “thers walk around these lo)es constantly. Due to the expanse o( the buildin), there is no possibility (or (eelin)s o( dizziness resultin) (rom this. An orchestra, located somewhere in the walls, plays and sin)s (rom time to time. :e(ore, the hall was lit by coloured lampions, but now it is lit with small )lass lamps. The latter is neater, althou)h the (irst had a much more ma)ical e((ect. The women commonly arrive at the Ranela)h all dressed up and covered in jewels. The in(lux o( people who )ather there in the evenin)s o( ‘ay and June is indescribably lar)e. It is not unusual that people have to wait an hour be(ore they can mount their carria)es. ”eople arrive just be(ore eleven oclock and leave at nearly two oclock in the mornin). The )ardens are barely utilised. The Vauxhall is more suitable to all kinds o( people and less expensive. “ne would reco)nise it (rom the miniatures that people have made o( it in the Dutch Republic. It is a )arden in London o( several Dutch mor)ens, well lit, with an orchestra and several lar)e halls. ”eople can consume all sorts o( (ood and drinks, and dance i( they so please. Last summer, exactly 50 years a(ter its (oundin), a jubilee was or)anised. There

JOHAN MEERMAN were all sorts o( extraordinary temples, triumphal arches, and )alleries painted with )reat taste and wonder(ully illuminated with so(tly coloured lampions. This, in addition to a crowd o( around 6,000 people that had )athered, each o( which paid hal( a )uinea (or the journey, made (or a coup d oeuil o( that evenin) that was beauti(ul beyond all description. At other times people or)anise the occasional show o( a well-imitated water(all, created out o( tin or somethin) o( the like. ;ard-)ames and dancin) are much beloved in En)land. Youn) )irls, who contrastin)ly play very little, devote themselves to the latter without hesitation. The (irst is more to the taste o( composed matrons and those o( our sex. Whist remains the (avoured )ame and is practised by many with )reat ability and attention, which should perhaps have been saved (or more important matters. In the capital, people play on a hi)h level. There are several mens societies where they )ather daily to de(eat each other with )ames o( hazard. In the streets where they are established, there are no buildin)s more beauti(ul than these. The blinds are lowered as soon as a party is )athered, by day as well as by ni)ht, to shield the dark proceedin)s that happen inside (rom the eyes o( passers-by or nei)hbours. In addition to the balls hosted by private citizens or companies, there are many public balls in En)land, or)anised at set intervals and attended by reservation. They are called assemblies and the houses used (or them assembly rooms. They are mostly divided into a dancin) hall, a tearoom, and a room where music is played. The ‘aster o( ;eremonies is indispensable (or the (êtes that are or)anized there. Durin) the dancin) o( the minuets,

ENGLAND: PART TWO which always precedes the (estivities and is considered an occurrence o( no little importance, his instruction decides how the pairs are combined, and the order in which they must dance. He appoints the )irls with whom visitors can join the rows. In short, doin) the honours and decidin) on arisin) disputes without ar)ument is the soul o( his (unction. “(ten, o((icers or travelled )entlemen, who are assumed to understand their world, are chosen to (ill this position. Even so, I have met miserable (i)ures amon)st them, who should still learn lessons (rom the Graces, be(ore they can be considered worthy o( their position. “ccasionally, at a bene(ice or a re)istration they will receive a reward (or their work. ”eople o(ten try to dance with the same lady (or the entire evenin) and to entertain and serve them between tea or the collation. I do not know i( this custom still exists. What I do know is that, when a lar)e number o( women attends these )atherin)s, there is no crueller custom than lettin) so many who burn with desire to (loat throu)h the rows, wait (or hours and torturin) them with the happy (aces o( their sisters. In the capitals o( the counties, all youn) ladies o( stature (rom the surroundin) area attend these assemblies, to enjoy the entertainment o( dancin) and to develop their amenities. The bathin) places and mineral waters are equipped in such a way that every (amily sojourns in special accommodations durin) their stay, like in :ath and elsewhere. In these places one may also (ind assembly rooms, where people )ather daily, i( not to dance than to play )ames or drink tea. ”ublic déjeuners are also hosted here. In :ath there are two such houses, both spacious and beauti(ul, and both with a

JOHAN MEERMAN remarkable ‘aster o( ;eremonies, which is extraordinary here. Sometimes people stay to)ether in one or multiple buildin)s, in a way where the entire company eats their daily meals to)ether, like in Harrow)ate, ‘atlock, :uxton and other places. Every one o( these buildin)s is equipped with halls and quarters, all o( which share the same (unction. The amount o( people who visit these places every year, only to be a part o( these entertainments, exceeds the ima)ination. I attended one (olk-(ête in En)land and one was plenty enou)h (or me. I believe it was the one that is or)anised every year on the Guildhall o( London, when a new Lord ‘ayor assumes o((ice. The procession o( the ;apitals )overnment and o( all the )uilds, leaves in the a(ternoon in )ondoles across the river to the hall o( Westminster. There, the recently elected o((icial takes an oath be(ore the ;ourt o( Exchequer and then they return in carria)es and by (oot to the town hall. The streets, throu)h which they must travel, are crowded with people and decorated with two rows o( assembled coaches. The people keep boredom at bay by pushin), screamin), jouncin) and the like. At the town hall, a meal and a ball are or)anised in the evenin). :e(orehand, lottery tickets are handed out, which allow entrance to either one or both o( these events. The meal proceeded in an orderly (ashion, outside o( the (act that only a little over hal( o( the )uests could be seated. Two lon) tables stood on both sides o( the hall, covered in expensive dishes. The Lord-‘ayor and his wi(e, or one who occupies her place in case he is unmarried, and their (riends occupy a hi)her table at the end and the two Sheri((s o( London occupy a similar one at the other end.

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Durin) dinner, music is per(ormed and blessin)s are proclaimed by a town crier. A(terwards people proceed to other quarters. Around ei)ht oclock in the evenin), those invited to the dancin) appeared. ’ow the company consisted o( a number o( around 2,000 people, since that many tickets had been manu(actured. Soon, the hall, where people had be)un to dance, was disturbed by an increasin)ly incisive crowd that could not be warded o((. The caretakers could not distin)uish who owned an attendance ticket and who had )iven themselves the ri)ht to attend. Each seized a bottle, some more than one at a time, and be(ore the stroke o( midni)ht one third o( the company was drunk. Escape was impossible, since the crowd still pushed a)ainst the main door (rom outside. For another three hours, I was (orced to remain a close witness to the joy o( the London ri(( ra(( that, on top o( that, had eloped with the wine. It started with the throwin) o( empty bottles, chairs and the like throu)h the hall, brawlin), pushin) and stompin). It ended with insultin), pullin), and pushin) the remainin) ladies that had not been able to escape throu)h secret doors. It is possible that this party, which is still thrown each year, has no equal in all o( Europe. The (requency with which peoples handkerchie(s or watches are stolen by one o( their (ellow )uests need not be mentioned. ;ricket,18 which is played in a way and with rules that are completely unknown in the Dutch Republic, is also a national

18 ‘eerman re(ers to a predecessor o( tennis durin) which a ball (illed with hair or straw is thrown and hit back and (orth either usin) the players hands or a racket. ;ricket is a close relative.

JOHAN MEERMAN pastime in En)land, as well as a stron) exercise. Last summer a )ame o( cricket was played in such a ceremonious way and by so many people that an entire county participated. The hunt (or deer, (oxes, hares, other wildli(e, and especially the shootin) o( partrid)es, dowitchers, and moor(owls, (or the pleasure o( which many travel a (ew hundred miles or even (urther, is the same as it is in every country it is the passion o( men and the bane o( women. All leporids are pursued on horseback. The (ox hunt is an incredible commotion and the name o( (ox hunter is not held in very hi)h re)ard in the kin)dom. ‘uch can be said about the (amous horse races. However, I will keep it short in order to avoid repetition. ”eople normally use a special kind o( horse, which is not used (or any other labour. Almost all o( these horses are li)ht and well-built. The (amily trees o( the most renowned horses are care(ully constructed and the de)rees to which they are related are as neatly separated as that o( the royal (amily in En)land. The horses are bred with the kind o( care that beloved children would receive and each has its own special stable boy. The price o( a )ood racehorse amounts to several thousands. Durin) the summer the stallions tour the kin)dom. :e(ore the tour, people can read in the newspapers how many mares Hercules or Hector will (avour in one season althou)h the owners o( Hercules and Hector also receive a )i(t o( 30, 40 or 50 )uineas (rom the owners o( the impre)nated mares. The Kin) encoura)es horse racin), a practise so unique to En)land, by promisin) the winner a prize, which consists either o( money or a piece o( silver. There is no sizable city in

ENGLAND: PART TWO the kin)dom in which these races are not or)anised at least once a year in Yorkshire, races are held in almost every town. Those in ’ewmarket and York are considered the most distin)uished and last (or several days. The latter unites all sorts o( decent people whereas the (ormer, in which races are held multiple times a year, mainly attracts those with a true passion (or horse racin). Usually, a broad and even road, covered with )rass that the horses cannot sink into any deeper than hal( an inch, is (enced with ropes and poles two, three, or (our miles around. The audience stands on both sides in carria)es, on horseback, on (oot, and on plat(orms. The jud)es are seated on a special, hei)htened section where the horses start and (inish. “ccasionally a master rides his own horse, althou)h usually this is done by a li)htwei)ht stable boy. The wei)ht that has to be carried by the horses, includin) the riders, are care(ully wei)hed and made equal to each other with lead. The horses can be reco)nised (rom a distance by the colour o( the stable boys vests. :etween two and ei)ht horses, maybe more, race each other at the same time. Dependin) on the size o( the racecourse, they run either one or multiple rounds. In the be)innin), the horses are mostly spared, but near the end all means, (rom voice to spurs, are used to (ire up the horses. The races )enerally last ten minutes. The animals are pushed to their limits durin) this time, and the riders more o(ten stand on their saddle than sit on it. ’othin), however, is more remarkable to a (orei)ner than to see the value this occasion has to any native, (rom any re)ion, a)e, or sex. They know every horse. :e(orehand, bets

JOHAN MEERMAN are placed on whom mi)ht triumph. Durin) the races, and particularly near the end, the amount o( bets placed increases immensely. The (ear o( expectation can be read on all (aces they raise their heads and appear to stand taller. ;on(used shoutin) o( (ive a)ainst (our, three a)ainst two, and six a)ainst one comes (rom everywhere, and the stran)est thin) is that the people are able to hear each other, and, even althou)h there is a (air amount o( bribery )oin) on amon)st the riders, they never re(use to pay (or a lost bet made in this way. Thousands are won and lost durin) these races, and people (rom all ranks are equal to each other on these occasions. ‘oreover, in York, a stone buildin) has been erected in which only decent people )ather the women on the second (loor and the hobbyists on top o( a plat(orm. Aside (rom the Kin), cities and even several private persons promise prices to the winner. A small number o( lower-class people entertain themselves with cock(i)hts. In the middle o( an amphitheatre, which has tiered seats, people incite several pairs o( these animals, which are armed with silver spurs. They attack each other with the utmost an)er. Sometimes the battle between a pair lasts (ive minutes or more, sometimes only two. “(ten both are saved, althou)h the interest o( the owners does not )uarantee that a (i)ht ends with the de(eat o( either o( the parties, as many lose their lives on the battle(ield o( honour. The participation o( the audience is even louder than at the horseraces, especially since the location is more secluded. The bets )o back and (orth in such a way that it would make a (orei)ner (eel dizzy.

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:oxin), which, like (encin), is tau)ht and practised accordin) to rules, and which has cost many people their health and li(e, still takes place daily in En)land. The (i)hts are not so much inspired by moments o( an)er or ven)eance, but rather they take place so that people can bet on them, and the public a)ain does not hesitate at all to choose a party. Similarly, some people (requently bet on the consumption o( an inhuman amount o( alcohol or (ood. In )eneral, sava)eness is still prevalent durin) the peoples (estivities and it does not end well (or those who have promised the people entertainment and (ail to properly provide it or cannot keep their word about it. What inadvertently (ollows (or them is the overturnin) o( their stands and the destruction o( their belon)in)s. ‘oreover, one has to see the many alehouses and inns to properly understand what this sava)eness is like. This nation has better ears (or music than we do, althou)h not as )ood as the Italians, the French, or the Germans. Sin)in) and the harpsichord are a lar)e part o( childrens education, especially, as previously mentioned, o( that o( youn) women. There is no lack o( concerts in neither London, nor the provinces. The most renowned tend to take place in the ”antheon in the capital. Famous (emale sin)ers are paid excessively, occasionally 100 )uineas (or an evenin), similar to the pay o( (amous theatre actors. In Wales the harp is (avoured one can (ind them in every inn and o(ten someone (rom the inn plays it on the stairs or in the hall to entertain stran)ers. A lar)er musical ceremony, such as the one that is now annually held in memory o( the renowned composer Handel

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JOHAN MEERMAN and is celebrated on three successive days in Westminster Abbey, is possibly without equal in other countries. :etween (ive and 600 musicians, sin)ers, and dancers (rom all over the kin)dom come to)ether and are seated in ascendin) rows on a hi)h and steep stand a)ainst the churchs main door. The ones providin) vocals are seated on the lowest levels with an or)an behind them. A(ter that there are (ourteen rows o( violins and those who play other instruments. The timpani are placed all the way at the top and the sides are (illed with choir sin)ers. From this orchestra up to the ambulatory o( the church, benches and two )alleries o( seats are provided (or the audience. The court is seated in a lo)e and the hi)her cler)y, the nobles, the ministers (rom other churches and monasteries, and the administration are all seated on a )allery above the music. The concert lasts between (our and (ive hours and almost all o( Handels compositions are played. An air (rom every piece is per(ormed, except (or the Te Deum and the oratorio ‘essiah, which are per(ormed in (ull. All that is played is sacred music. With these and excellent musicians per(ormin) the most exquisite pieces o( one o( the best composers, one can ima)ine the e((ect o( such a per(ormance on trained ears. The size o( the church ensures that the music is not too loud. “ccasionally six or seven (amous sin)ers per(orm solos, such as ‘adame ‘ara o( the Italian opera and a couple o( Jewish women. It leads to extraordinary re(lections, however, when one hears the sublime praise (or the Saviour and the deepest mysteries o( the ;hristian (aith roll o(( these ton)ues. Last summer, on the third day on which this celebration was held, the in(lux o( people remained so

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)reat, re)ardless o( the entry (ee o( one )uinea, that, disre)ardin) rehearsals, a (ourth day had to be added on top o( the three that were planned. When it comes to the actual customs o( the people, it would not do a nation as enli)htened as En)land justice i( we disre)arded the (act that a lar)e part o( the population has very clear notions re)ardin) healthy morals and that they apply these to their behaviour. At the same time, it is equally certain that the thirst (or money in this kin)dom, which increases the hi)h prices o( provisions and the )rowin) splendour and extrava)ance, has caused horri(ic devastation with re)ards to healthy morals. ”eople know how unabashedly Robert Walpole declared that he deemed no ‘ember o( ”arliament incorruptible, i( one could only (ind out what would tempt them the most. ”eople are not ashamed to publicly name the minister, lord, or statesman whose words they will always applaud and whose opinions they a)ree with without inquiry. Jobs, pensions, connections, promises, threats, and (amily interests are o(ten such power(ul motives (or )ivin) counsel that all lo)ic and eloquence that opposes it are not capable o( overturnin) it. Amon)st the lower classes, the(t and (raud have increased so much that there are no examples o( it amon)st other civilised peoples. “ne only needs to read the newspapers, and see only hal( o( the incidents to be astonished by the sheer resource(ulness o( the human spirit in this re)ard and the thousands o( di((erent ways people have mana)ed to practise this crime. ’owhere are there more bur)laries, petty the(ts, pickpockets, and, as has previously been mentioned, robbers

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JOHAN MEERMAN and mu))ers than in En)land. ’owhere is this done with more cra(t, a)ility, in)eniousness, or, unless this word is too honourable to use it in this context, with more devilish wit. It is )rievous to consider how many youn) people are )iven the death penalty, as the law holds residents accountable (or their behaviour at a very early a)e. The result o( this is that the )reater part o( those who are han)ed, as one can deduct (rom public documents, have not yet reached their twenties. In court, (alse oaths (or or a)ainst someones li(e, honour, and )oods are easily bou)ht. Indeed, i( there is anythin) which is o( the utmost importance and is treated with the least respect in En)land, it is the swearin) o( the oaths. The entire ceremony consists o( kissin) an evan)elical book. It happens about (i(ty times an hour and with very little evidence o( compassion. It would require people other than the En)lish population to understand that this kiss means more than the one people occasionally press on a cheek out o( politeness. When it comes to cursin), the common man in the Dutch Republic and on the other side o( the sea are more or less equals, except when one praises the (irst (or his diversity and the latter (or his emphasis. Amon)st the upper class, swearin) occurs (ar less, althou)h they also (requently use a name that should never be used unnecessarily and without respect, as an expletive. The debauche in London has risen to almost the same level as in ”aris. The number o( )irls o( easy virtue, as the En)lish sometimes call them, is indescribably hi)h they are united in ba)nios entertain in rooms, or show o(( their snares to the youth and the innocent on the street and cause the corrupted

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ENGLAND: PART TWO to steep even lower. The capital, however, exceeds the other cities in this re)ard proportionally, and the cities in turn outdo the countryside. There are many stories o( murder – even o( cruel murders – that are continually told in En)land. “(ten these murders are committed to obtain others possessions or to cover up robbery and other such thin)s, but also out o( wrath, reven)e, envy, and by indul)in) untamed desires. Duels are (ou)ht daily, especially in London, and always with )uns – althou)h they are in(initely less violent than in France. ”eople measure the )round, shoot (rom both sides, o(ten miss, sometimes shoot their )uns in the air, and o(ten reconcile without bloodshed. En)land is renowned (or suicides. This can be attributed to the heavy air, but more so to the heaviness o( the (ood. However, it also has moral causes sometimes it is caused by remorse (or committed crimes, sometimes by unpayable debts accumulated by a too extrava)ant way o( li(e, and sometimes it is caused by disappointment in love. All o( this is (uelled by an indi((erence towards death, which one will not (ind elsewhere, and which causes the executions o( criminals to be such a substantial happenin) that holds the attention o( a (orei)ner. In )eneral, one will (ind that there is a certain resilience in the En)lish character, which is one o( a kind, and which could make the :riton an example to other peoples, i( well-)uided. ’evertheless, at other times this resilience can also be a source o( terrible disasters. ’obleness, )reatness o( soul, )enerosity, and bein) able to sacri(ice everythin) in (avour o(

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JOHAN MEERMAN the )reater )ood, as exempli(ied by their history, are required by birth. ’ational pride is only detested by the youn) :ritons who travel throu)h Europe. In the kin)dom itsel( the (eelin)s o( national pride )o almost unnoticed, at least amon)st those one has had the opportunity o( )ettin) to know better. An En)lishman has too many substantial privile)es to not have to (ollow the example o( the annoyin) boastin) in (ront o( (orei)ners that is so inherent to Germans. This is the place to speak o( several public establishments, which owe their existence to the compassion and ma)nanimity o( the nation, and also o( the memorials o( esteem and )ratitude that are dedicated to the livin) and the dead. I will not )o into the many hospitals and homes (or the poor, orphaned, and elderly that one can (ind in London, o( which travellers are usually shown St :artholomews Hospital and ;hrists Hospital as they are o( a similar size. I will mention the :edlam, the ‘a)dalene House, and the Foundlin) Hospital in the city, as well as the hospitals o( ;helsea and Greenwich in the surroundin) area. :edlam, the London madhouse, was modelled a(ter the palace o( Versailles, or so people say. Two renowned statues, one o( a (rantic person and one o( a melancholic person, made by a resident o( this prison decorate the )ate o( the (orecourt. The un(ortunate creatures that lack the most precious abilities o( humankind are housed in 300 cells spread out over (our halls. ’obody is re(used admittance to live here and to be provided (or, on the condition that a deposit is made (or their (uneral. Two halls situated above one another on the

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ENGLAND: PART TWO le(t side o( the entrance are reserved (or the men two other halls on the ri)ht side are (or the women. The mad are locked in their cells day and ni)ht. “n top o( that, some are bound in a straitjacket. The mumblin), simple, and other such (ools wander the halls durin) the day occasionally they are allowed to enjoy the (resh air in the courtyard. The number o( people doomed to this )loomy residence is about 290 and the balance between the sexes is more or less equal. Those who are curious or the (ools relations are admitted to the (acility only two times a week (or a (ew hours at a time. Women are allowed to walk around all the corridors, but the men can only walk around those assi)ned to their own sex. This si)ht is )rim and )rievous beyond any expression to anyone who has not lost all sense o( humanity. In some places one will see and hear the rattlin) o( chains, mad screamin), cursin), and (oamin) at the mouth in other places one will notice the lau)hter, shriekin), and nonsense that is spoken. Sometimes there is incessant cryin), ponderin), and silence at other times there is normal, healthy speech alternated by absurdities. It comes to mind that one sin)le idea in our mind or one hit or (all on our heads could reduce us to a similar state, were it not (or a divine providence counterin) such moments. It is certainly an educational, yet )ruesome si)ht woe be upon the one who introduced the idea o( madhouses bein) entertainin). This institution in London, however, can still serve as an example to similar places elsewhere, and to the cruel charity that rei)ns in Amsterdam, which is usually renowned (or its public institutions. ”eople should, however,

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JOHAN MEERMAN be more cautious not to expose all who visit the institution to the whims o( the hal(-witted persons that surround them. The ‘a)dalen House, established privately, is, as (ar as I know, unique to the En)lish capital. Here, un(ortunate victims o( early temptation or overpowerin) passion are o((ered sanctuary i( they (eel remorse (or their way o( livin). They can stay (or as lon) as they please (or up to six years, althou)h they are never allowed to come back (or a second time. They are sa(e (rom the allurements o( society and (rom the shame that mi)ht still (ollow them even a(ter they have chan)ed their ways. They are care(ully healed (rom dis)race(ul diseases and must adhere to certain rules when it comes to clothin) and the like. “n Sundays there are two orations in their chapel, which are especially suitable (or these penitents. Everyone in possession o( a ticket is admitted, althou)h one is only able to see the (emale residents throu)h a )auze. “ne does hear them sin) beauti(ul son)s, which are no lon)er siren son)s, with melodious voices. These women also have their daily prayer service. “bviously access to these women is denied to anyone who does not belon) there. From the outside, the buildin) seems neat, althou)h not very lar)e. “n the basse-cour some weepin) willows have been planted around a pond, it seems a lovely symbol o( what must be happenin) within these walls. It is a shame that, despite havin) been established with the best intentions, this institution is not considered to be entirely help(ul to its inhabitants. :esides the (act that barely 100 penitents out o( the 40,000 prostitutes estimated to live in London, seek re(u)e in this shelter, experience learns that most o( them only come either to be healed o( their behaviour

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ENGLAND: PART TWO or to be provided (or honourably (or a certain time. In addition, they still ruin themselves (urther and i)nite each others ima)ination with temptin) conversations amon)st themselves, and, once they are (ree, they o(ten return to their previous way o( li(e – and o(ten in a worse way than be(ore. Generally, these kinds o( creatures in London continue their sin(ul lives with the thou)ht in mind that they can never (all into poverty, as there will always be a place (or them. The Foundlin) Hospital distin)uishes itsel( more by its size and splendour than by the institution itsel(. As it was established by private individuals, just as the a(orementioned, it does not have enou)h capital to take in all children that mi)ht deserve its help. The number o( children that are taken in is limited to only ten every three months. The mothers cannot be married and must in(orm a superintendent o( their situation. The children are immediately placed with (oster- mothers in the country, where they remain until they are (ive years o( a)e, a(ter which they are )iven a decent education at the institution. Followin) this, they will be )iven manual work in the city. Around 400 youn) people live in the establishment and around 700 in total live at its expenses. To support them, there is an annual sermon which is held at the end o( ‘ay in the beauti(ul chapel that is part o( the buildin). The children themselves sin) endearin) son)s especially made (or this ceremony. The hospitals in ;helsea and Greenwich serve retired soldiers and old sailors, respectively. The one in ;helsea is located north o( London. It is a clean and spacious buildin). “n the side o( the )arden, the Governor and the Lieutenant

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Governor have allocated win)s as their residence between these win)s there is a statue o( Kin) James II. There are some additional separate win)s that belon) to the hospital as well. There are around 500 inhabitants. An injury or many years o( service allows the soldiers to live there. They are )iven meat (ive times a week and soup twice, and so on and so (orth swipes, cheese, and bread are served in the mornin) and in the evenin). The )alleries, where each has their own room and bed, can be praised (or everythin) except its cleanliness. Everyone prepares their )reens and spices on (ireplaces, except (or the meat, which is handed out downstairs, but consumed here as well. “ne can only ima)ine the e((ect this has on the air in the )alleries. Greenwich is located several miles south o( London, near the Thames. It is a con)lomeration o( beauti(ul buildin)s, o( which I must tell more at a later point. It is a com(ortin) prospect to the sailors to see the support o( the kin)dom when they sail past the palace that was established by a )rate(ul nation to house them i( they have )otten old durin) their service and to provide peace until their death. It is estimated that the number o( inhabitants o( this Hospital is around 2,500, hal( o( which receive their (ood in this hospital. The others enjoy one shillin) per day to buy their meals outside o( the hospital the weekly rule is (ive days o( meat and two days o( other dishes, just as in ;helsea. The meat days are, a)ain, divided into three days o( bee( and two o( mutton one pound o( each, alon)side two pounds o( bread, two ju)s o( beer, and other thin)s. The dormitories, where the stalls and beds are placed, exceed those o( the ;ountry Hospital in cleanliness, as

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ENGLAND: PART TWO it appears that (ood is not prepared here. ’evertheless, the entire buildin) is in(ested with bedbu)s, which is also the reason why one will (ind iron beds here. In summer, the beds are chan)ed once every three weeks and in winter once a month. Greenwich accepts anyone who has served (ourteen years and )rants pensions to those who are maimed by the war. The rules are so(t and residents have the (reedom to do as they please, althou)h they are not allowed to sleep outside the hospital without permission. ”unishments include wearin) a yellow cloak with red (laps, sweepin) the (loors, and a deduction o( their spendin) money. ‘any women reside here as well, either because they are hired as sit-ins or because they are married to one o( the residents. Each year, in a school not (ar (rom the buildin), over 100 boys are trained to serve in the navy. Liverpool can humbly praise itsel( (or a similar, but smaller, institute, consistin) o( a corps de lo)is with two lar)e win)s that are connected to the hall by a colonnade. It houses, (eeds, and sustains several marine veterans, whose number I am unable to )ive. The two (amous harbours o( ”ortsmouth and ”lymouth also have their own hospitals, but these are only (or ill and wounded sailors. ”ortsmouths hospital is vast and ma)ni(icent and can host up to 2,000 patients. “n the inside, one notices that it is made up out o( several buildin)s. “ne strolls past these buildin)s underneath the colonnades and )alleries, sa(e)uarded (rom the (orces o( nature. ”lymouths hospital is even made up out o( eleven buildin)s, and is surrounded by a wall. The most central buildin) contains the

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JOHAN MEERMAN chapel, apothecary, and other spaces that provide communal needs. The patients reside in the ten other buildin)s. Each win) is three (loors hi)h, each (loor has two dormitories, and each dormitory has 25 beds in total, it can provide shelter (or 1,500 sailors. Several houses outside o( the hospital are also part o( the institute. A portico runs alon) the whole buildin), supported by pillars made o( a kind o( metallic stone that is hewn not too (ar (rom this re)ion. Another demonstration o( the hi)h esteem En)land holds (or its sailors can be (ound in Kin)ston upon Hull, where there is a little courtyard with alms-houses that supports 30 widows. ‘oreover, almost every city in En)land has one or two )ood hospitals or other hospices. As such, I do not (ind it necessary to discuss all o( them here in )reat detail. Just outside o( Liverpool there is a very spacious workhouse. :ath has a special hospital (or 113 poor patients (rom all over the kin)dom who, carryin) a report (rom a medical practitioner, come to this place to use its waters. This number, lo)ically, does not include the inhabitants o( this city. As (ar as monuments (or commendable :ritish civilians, awarded durin) their lives or a(ter their deaths, are concerned, I cannot )ive a more )lorious example than :lenheim. When the Duke o( ‘arlborou)h had )loriously led the troops o( Anne to victory at the start o( this century, the nation bou)ht him this beauti(ul and vast estate. He was allowed to build a palace o( an ine((able sum, as well as a statue on a column o( over 100 (eet hi)h with inscriptions on the pedestal, which was erected in the park. Furthermore, he received a yearly income o( 5,000 pounds sterlin) to maintain

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ENGLAND: PART TWO all this. It is true that, at this time, he enjoyed the (ull (avour o( his soverei)n however, it would be i)norant to say that pleasin) the queen was this nations only motivation to sacri(ice so much (or a (ellow citizen. In our days too, we have seen how land and naval heroes who served their country were rewarded meritoriously – be it in the (orm o( public expressions o( )ratitude by the parliament or throu)h pensions, class advancements, and the like. The immortal ;hatham was )iven a solemn (uneral and a monument in Westminster Abbey at the expense o( the nation. This monument is similar to the one that has since been constructed in the bi) hall o( London ;ity Hall. Westminster Abbey is (illed with monuments (or all sorts o( (amous men who are buried here amon)st kin)s, royals, and nobility. All who have simply excelled in their art and who have mana)ed to make a name (or themselves – heroes, poets, scholars, philosophers, statesmen, musicians, and actors – are buried here alon)side each other. The marble points out the places where each one is restin) in the excellence o( their labour. Since the Elizabethan era, a concealed pride has possibly led the En)lish monarchs to decide to no lon)er desire the )reat honour o( havin) a monument in their name. All churches in En)land, especially the cathedrals, are (ull o( tombs that have been erected to express love, respect, and )ratitude to deceased (riends, relatives, or (ellow citizens. There are hardly any bishops who have not been honoured by one. Even the churchyards are hesitantly copyin) this with upri)ht tombstones that are huddled to)ether and carry names, inscriptions, verses, and the like. However, the

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JOHAN MEERMAN ri)ht(ully (amed mausoleum, (ounded by the Earl o( ;arlisle in the middle o( his estate in Yorkshire as a )raveyard (or him and his (amily, arose (rom a somewhat di((erent course o( action. ’onetheless, it proclaims the same )reatness o( spirit and taste that other monuments in the kin)dom owe their establishment to. I will have to come back to this structure in the section on architecture. “(ten, noblemen have decorated their country estates with these monuments. Stowe House alone, (or example, can pride itsel( on an extensive collection o( these. “n the site where Kin) Al(red conquered the Danes, and in doin) so protected his (atherland (rom their raids and plunders, ‘r Hoare has constructed a tower in memory o( his monarch, enriched with inscriptions and the like.19 This three-sided brick tower is hollow and holds a spiral staircase o( 220 steps in one o( its corners. Furthermore, the de(eat o( one o( the Saxon or Danish conquerors is commemorated by another small monument, recently constructed in ’orthumberland, just outside o( Alnwick. I will not speak o( the abundance o( statues o( kin)s, either on (oot or on horseback, nor o( other monuments built in honour o( citizens or in memory o( (amous events in cities, as this would only be appropriate i( I would provide a description o( them. Let me now proceed (rom this nations habits and traditions to its reli)ion.

19 To clarify, this monument is not found in Stowe but in the Stourhead Estate in Wiltshire. It was completed in 1772 to commemorate George IIIs ascension to the throne in 1760 and the end of the Seven Years War (Nelms).

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It is a re)ion where the :ible is available to all, where the ;hristian (aith has been triumphantly de(ended when under severe attack o( others, and where books revealin) tender piety are bein) published time and a)ain. It is also a nation where churches are open each day o( the week so that con)re)ations may send up prayers and hymns and receive education (or the mind and the heart there, one should (ind thousands who are interested in the (aith which imprints their minds and )uides their actions. What has already been said abundantly about the customs o( this nation shows that this privile)e, by (ar, is not held by everyone. ‘erely jud)in) by appearances, I will share with you the remarks that I can permit mysel( to make based on my time spent in En)land. The public reli)ion throu)hout the kin)dom is Episcopalian. En)land is divided into 24 dioceses, whose leaders are under the authority o( the two Archbishops o( ;anterbury and York. ‘oreover, the many other chapters that remain create a multitude o( other church di)nitaries such as canons, deans, and others. The parishes are consi)ned to pastors. The incomes o( the most distin)uished cler)y amount to considerable sums the :ishop o( Durham is estimated to receive 18,000 pounds sterlin) per year (rom his diocese. The cler)y owe their positions to the ecclesiastical authorities, as the kin) merely recommends men, and the chapters actually per(orm the election. It )oes without sayin) that the respect o( the lesser cler)y is subjected to the chapters. ‘any learned (ellows can be (ound amon)st the bishops, and the (irst Archbishop o( the kin)dom, a man not o( noble birth, merely has to hold this hi)h position in order to receive his income.

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As members o( the House o( Lords, they all reside in the capital (or a part o( the year. ‘any complain about them (or not bein) present enou)h in their dioceses and (or spendin) their incomes elsewhere. They carry the title ‘ilord, and their (amily name would be (or)otten i( it were not (or their wives who carry these names, with merely the addition o( ‘istress, and not ‘ilady. These pastors are rarely (ound in (unction outside o( ceremonious occasions. Their rewards vary widely some receive no more than a teacher does, while others are )ranted several hundred pounds sterlin). “utside o( this inequality, there are two other main weaknesses in the Episcopalian ;hurch. The (irst is that one person can, in di((erent parts o( the kin)dom, take on more than one position and thus earn more than one wa)e. ;onsequently, the second weakness is that many towns are le(t to chaplains and are rarely visited by the pastor, while this pastor enjoys all the advanta)es o( his wa)es and arran)es the cheapest possible a)reement with his deputy. This deputy can never be expected to put as much e((ort into his con)re)ation as the actual shepherd, i( he should be willin) to take the e((ort to tend his sheep. The bene(icial positions are undoubtedly appointed by the hi)h-placed ones, and those who receive these positions live splendidly. ;oncernin) skill and tradition, I need not remind one that there are many di((erences amon)st these people, who have o(ten had very di((erent upbrin)in)s. They are o(ten much more accommodatin) in these re)ions than we are in the Dutch Republic.

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The renowned 39 Articles o( Reli)ion contain the con(ession o( (aith o( the rulin) church in En)land. While most Dutch Re(ormed people would have no issue in endorsin) these,20 not all cler)y in the En)lish kin)dom commit to these with exact accuracy. The churches can be divided into cathedrals, colle)iate churches, and parochial churches. In the (irst two, the reli)ion is mostly per(ormed in the choir. This part o( the church still ori)inates (rom Roman ;atholic times, unless it has been remodelled and the chapter is situated inside it. Amon)st parochial churches, several beauti(ul and orderly buildin)s can be (ound, all o( which have an altar and two lecterns above each other, except (or the pulpit. The con)re)ation seats itsel( on round benches in square or rectan)ular partitions where (amilies o(ten sit to)ether. Above them, one usually (inds )alleries. The beauti(ul St Stephen Walbrook ;hurch in London stokes two chimneys in winter. ”erhaps it is an attempt to provide exquisite com(ort, or an e((ort which has been put in to attract the con)re)ation to the church. “ther than monuments, one will not (ind any art except (or some occasional paintin)s near the altar here and there. ’o one would ever attend an Episcopal ;hurch wearin) a hat. A service is held each Sunday twice a day when possible and in certain places even three times a day. Durin) the week, it varies (rom no services at all to twelve services. The (ormer

20 ‘eerman uses the term Hervormden here, re(errin) to a Dutch church following the ideas of the Reformation.

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JOHAN MEERMAN is true (or most towns, and the latter (or several cathedrals. In En)land, one rarely attends church outside o( ones parish and thus almost no empty seats can be (ound. Across nearly the entire nation, the mornin) service commences between ten and eleven, sometimes even later. ”rayers are read and sermons are )iven on Sundays and holidays, althou)h the latter never occurs durin) the rest o( the week. ”rayers last (or about one hour and the sermon (or about hal( o( that time. ”rayers include the hymns, thanks)ivin)s, prayers, con(essions, and lectures as prescribed in the :ook o( ;ommon ”rayer, and one )oes over these in every session. A section o( these will always be addressed, others only on certain days or hours. The pastor, clad in a white choir robe, takes place behind the hi)her lectern as the precentor takes place at the lower one. A(ter admonishin) the con)re)ation to con(ess their sins, the pastor reads a )eneral con(ession o( this nature line by line. The con)re)ation repeats each line spoken aloud, but perhaps )rumblin) mi)ht be a more accurate term to use here. This is then (ollowed by a sort o( absolution, read out by the pastor. They continue with several ”salms that are divided in such a way that the entire :ook o( ”salms is covered in one month, always startin) with the 95th ”salm. The pastor and the con)re)ation alternately recite one verse, a(ter which the pastor reads a chapter (rom the “ld Testament and the con)re)ation reads a chapter (rom the ’ew Testament. This is a)ain divided in such a way that the :ible is covered in one year. :etween the readin) o( these chapters, the hundredth ”salm or another son) and the Te Deum, are alternately

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ENGLAND: PART TWO recited. Then, the litany or a )eneral prayer is also read in the same way. ’evertheless, other short prayers are only allotted to the pastor, while the con)re)ation merely answers these with Amen. A(terwards, they usually sin), just like we do in the Dutch Republic. Durin) mornin) services, the pastor reads more prayers, the Ten ;ommandments, and the Gospels with the Epistle o( the day, either (rom his pulpit or (rom the altar. A(ter each commandment, the con)re)ation recites a short wish to obey this law. ’ow, the con)re)ation sin)s a)ain, while the pastor mounts the pulpit. Durin) all these routine prayers, the con)re)ation has to stand, sit, or kneel. All pews are equipped with kneelers, covered by woven mats. Usually the con)re)ations in cathedral churches, which are o(ten small in number, do not have much else to do than listen, as the choir sin)s all the ”salms and hymns. These son)s are sun) in the parish in the same way they are sun) in Roman ;atholic churches. Admirers o( this beauti(ul sacred vocal music can indul)e themselves here. The sermon is sometimes )iven by the pastor, who also reads the prayers, and sometimes by someone else. For the sermon, the choir robe has been replaced by a black )own with bands. The sermon is preceded by a short invocation and is (ollowed by a blessin) that may never be recited (rom memory. “n the days o( the Lords Supper, those who wish to partake in this sacrament remain in the church with the pastor until the others have le(t, and then they receive it in (ront o( the altar. All this su((iciently proves that the Episcopal ;hurch only discarded the (allacies o( the Roman ;atholics durin) the

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En)lish Re(ormation, while nearly all the (ormalities o( the services have been preserved. In short, the or)anisation o( the public reli)ion is unworthy o( such a reasonable and enli)htened nation as En)land. First o( all, even when the prayers in themselves are well-composed and devotional, and even when the litany is beauti(ul, the same is usually repeated every day. ;onsequently, what should be a matter o( the heart is now turned into a mechanical work o( memory, in which attentiveness cannot always be ascertained, even with the best intentions. Furthermore, this all happens in quite a disorderly (ashion and without coherence, even thou)h the order in which it all should occur has been prescribed with military precision. The “ur Father is recited around (ive times within one service, the Gloria ”atri,21 at least as o(ten. They pray (or the kin) (our or (ive times, and the remainin) time is (illed with two con(essions o( (aith, two blessin)s, and the like. It is true, however, that the pastors usually read these prayers in quite a de(erential tone and that the con)re)ation will notice in(initely more devotion durin) these than durin) the sermon. However, murmurin) that what the pastor has said or jabberin) a (ew verses (rom a ”salm su((ocates rather than cultivates the (eelin)s that should be induced by these words. ’ow, nothin) is more barren than the sermon. A dry, )eneral, philosophical, or ethical show, uttered in a semi- audible voice, without any passion, and with hardly any ur)in) or relevance. Furthermore, it is not suitable to a con)re)ation already tired (rom the lon) service prayers and

21 A short hymn o( praise to God, colloquially known as Glory :e OED).

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ENGLAND: PART TWO now quietly settled in the corners o( the benches. This is the labour that the shepherds o( En)land )ive themselves to win, (or their ‘aster, the souls that are entrusted to them. ‘any o( these sermons are not even (rom their own hands, as sermons can be bou)ht or claimed throu)h newsletters. To make these the(ts even easier, calli)raphic sermons can o(ten be (ound in bookstores. This saves the pastors the trouble o( copyin) them, and these sermons cannot be discerned (rom printed letters when sittin) in the )allery lookin) down to the pulpit. I )ladly con(ess that here and there I have heard sa)acious and well-reasoned sermons. Yet, with very (ew exceptions, they always lacked in spirit and li(e. The (ew who distin)uish themselves (rom their (ellow ministers in this respect are always susceptible to )ettin) an unworkable church due to lar)e attendance. The most un(athomable thin), however, is that these wise sermons are )iven very rarely. A possible (actor is that some (ear to be held (or ‘ethodists others act out o( principle and maintain that one should only address reason and leave the truth to its own power, without inter(erin) with matters o( the heart in any way. Still, most cler)y show too little interest in God-(earin) conduct themselves to be able to demonstrate it to their listeners with the emphasis that it requires. In the meantime, these shortcomin)s in the public service are the most (ruit(ul sources o( i)norance and dissoluteness amon)st the (aith(ul, (or ne)lect o( reli)ion amon)st those who think a bit more (reely, and in )eneral (or hal(-heartedness amon)st the lar)est crowd. “ne knows little o( humankind i( one pretends that the reli)ion o( a nation will persist without public )atherin)s, and

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JOHAN MEERMAN that virtue will maintain its rei)n over the heart without perpetual and stern admonitions. He who needlessly withdraws himsel( (rom such )atherin)s, thinkin) that he is master over them or does not need them, (or)ets that someone else with in(initely less intellect can (all into that very same delusion. In this way, he shares the blame (or all those o((ences that his peer would have never conducted in a purer li)ht. Furthermore, in all places o( worship, in colle)es, at universities, and at many country estates o( the wealthy, chapels can be (ound where chaplains hold the services. The members o( several colle)es in “x(ord only con)re)ate to hear the sermon, while the prayers are also read inside their walls. The heads o( the University alternately )ive the sermon, which is )enerally an elaborate piece. ’ext to prayers (or daily worship and national as well as ;hristian holidays, The :ook o( ;ommon ”rayer contains the services (or sacraments, marria)es, and the like. It is remarkable to note that there is even a service desi)ned (or (unerals. I have seen this per(ormed very solemnly durin) the burial o( ”rincess Amelia22 last year. The entire chapel and choir o( Westminster Abbey took the body (rom the door o( the church to the Henry VII Lady ;hapel, at the centre o( which the openin) to the royal vault can be (ound. Two by two, they san) as they proceeded, dressed in white choir robes

22 Princess Amelia of Great Britain (1711-1786), second daughter of George II of Great Britain, was buried on 11 November 1786 in the Hanoverian vault of the Henry VII Lady Chapel. Not to be mistaken for Princess Amelia of the United Kingdom (1783-1810 ”rincess Amelia.

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ENGLAND: PART TWO and holdin) burnin) wax candles. ’o instrument other than the or)an accompanied their sin)in). The House o( the deceased and the women who represented )rie(, since the relatives themselves no lon)er )o to (unerals in En)land, enclosed the choir (rom the (ront, and the body, which was carried under a :aldaquin, (rom the back. The co((in was covered in red velvet, decorated with )olden nails, and stamped with a plate in which the princess name was en)raved. ”eople now )athered around the )rave and the co((in was placed onto a wooden panel that covered the openin) o( the vault. Then, the Dean o( Westminster stood in (ront o( the )rave and read the service. A(ter some precedin) verses (rom Scriptures on the vicissitudes o( li(e, the (ollowin) words were spoken as the co((in descended Forasmuch as it hath pleased Almi)hty God o( his )reat mercy to take unto himsel( the soul o( our dear sister here departed, we there(ore commit her body to the )round earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust [the sexton now casted a (ew shovels o( earth (rom above onto the co((in] in sure and certain hope o( the resurrection to eternal li(e throu)h our Lord Jesus ;hrist who shall chan)e the body o( our low estate.23 Hereupon the choir started the (ollowin) verse, a)ain with di)ni(ied and vivacious music :lessed are the dead which die in the Lord, etc.24

23 ”assa)e (rom The “rder (or the :urial o( the Dead Walpot 309. 24 Revelation 14:13 (King James Bible).

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A(ter this, the Dean (ollowed with a (ew more prayers and )ave the blessin). A(ter concludin) this movin) ceremony, the e((ect o( which was intensi(ied by the status o( the deceased, the crowd o( spectators, the beauty o( the son), and the )loom o( a vast and poorly lit buildin), the procession le(t in the same order as they entered. The churches o( French re(u)ees in En)land have si)ni(icantly decreased in number. Accordin) to several members, 30 churches have been closed in London. “( those that are still in use, services are held in the same way as in the Dutch ”rotestant churches and are only per(ormed in the Swiss ;hurch and one other church in London. All the other services are Episcopal. In ;anterbury, 400 members o( the French con)re)ation can be (ound as well, yet, to my knowled)e, there are no other French churches to be (ound in other cities o( the kin)dom. Those o( the French nation who came to settle in En)land, and those who are still comin), quickly mix with this country throu)h marria)es and readily adopt the customs. ‘ethodists have public churches, called chapels or tabernacles, where they (ollow the litur)y o( the rulin) church. However, they distin)uish themselves (rom the Episcopalians throu)h the len)th and )ravity o( their sermons, the openin) and concludin) prayers that are recited (rom the pulpit, and the special hymns that they raise. I have attended the assembly o( these people several times in White(ields

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Tabernacle25 and heard the sermons o( a (amous teacher in these circles, whose name I believe is ”ercy. He is )i(ted with a stron) voice, a quite natural delivery, and is very persuasive, even without oratory eloquence. A little less )rimacin) would not harm his appearance, nor would (ewer insults to other (aiths do him any injustice. A(ter the blessin), the precentor announced that there would be another service in the a(ternoon and evenin), and that ‘aster ”ercy would preach a)ain next Tuesday. The system o( these people seems to have a lar)e resemblance to the style o( Hervey,26 and its way o( thinkin) is sincere. However, they cannot be entirely absolved (rom (olly and a sort o( enthusiasm. “n Sundays, their churches are crammed with people, but not many amon)st them are prominent or noble. “ther than that, it is evident to me that on the one hand, this sect is )atherin) such a lar)e (ollowin) in En)land that it is causin) people to leave other churches to join it. “n the other hand, they are (irmly disputed and despised to such an extent that its heads are accused o( bein) sanctimonious. Steerin) a middle course in these jud)ments, as well as in many other thin)s, mi)ht be the sa(est thin) to do.

25 Built in 1759 for John Whitefield (1715-1770), founder of Methodism together with John and George Wesley. This church on Tottenham Court Road in London was erected as Whitefield was no longer welcome to spread its evangelical doctrines in his former chapel (Walford 460-470). 26 James Hervey (1714-1758) was a writer and Oxford Methodist clergyman who was known for his graceful spirit and solemn manners (Tyerman 201-333).

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Here and there, one will still encounter soapbox preachers. A bour)eois man, convinced that he has received a vocation, stands on a plat(orm in the most populous areas o( cities. A crowd )athers around him they sin), and he prays and preaches. ‘ost o( the time his sermons are declamations a)ainst the resistin) o( conversion and the like. Sometimes he uses the shoulders o( one o( the precentors as a lectern. The con)re)ation shows reverence and all take o(( their hats, at least durin) son) and prayer. The )atherin) is concluded with an announcement about the next sermons time and location, i( the weather allows it. The Quakers also constitute a lar)e crowd in En)land, and they distin)uish themselves throu)h the purity o( their traditions and the simplicity o( their clothin). The men usually wear round hats, and the women wear a plain (rock and a small, round, unadorned hat o( )rey or white silk. It is )enerally known that they address each other by their (irst name, a custom that they even extend outside o( their own circles. Durin) the service that I attended in :irmin)ham, I heard no other sounds than the occasional si)h or yawn o( a contemplatin) and, i( I dare say, bored con)re)ation. The ”resbyterians and other kinds o( dissenters are very numerous in En)land, and their churches are (or the most part visible (rom the outside. Their esteem, as well as the class o( their members, varies (rom one place to the other. In ‘anchester, they )ather in a beauti(ul buildin) and the parish is in a (lourishin) state. The service is carried out in almost the same way as we do it in the Dutch Republic. The hymns are usually outstandin)ly beauti(ul, while per(ormed without

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ENGLAND: PART TWO an or)an, and the prayers are rich and edi(yin). Then, their sermons do occasionally lack the necessary earnestness and ur)in), althou)h less so than in the Episcopalian ;hurch. ‘ost ”resbyterian pastors have already deviated so much (rom the strict ;alvinism that the sentiments o( Arius, and even o( Fausto Sozzini, have already won quite some )round here. They see no need (or hidin) or veilin) this as they are not restrained by services like pastors in the rulin) churches are. The ”resbyterians in York have a special way o( celebratin) the Lords Supper and I do not know i( it is customary in other places as well. The lectern o( the precentor is covered with a lar)e square plank that is a)ain covered with a tablecloth on which the elements o( bread and wine are displayed. The pastor blesses the elements and then brin)s them to the communicants, who stay in their benches as (irst the plate o( bread is passed throu)h the entire church and later the wine. Furthermore, in this kin)dom, they do not always raise money (or the poor in their services. In the places where it does still happen, people rarely put more than a sin)le piece o( copper27 in an open box. When stran)ers throw in a piece o( silver, those around them sneerin)ly watch. A parishs contributions (or the poor are raised in another way, and many )enerous hearts can be (ound here, just as in our country.

27 In the period o( ‘eermans travels, copper was used (or (arthin)s and halfpennies.

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The Sunday, or the Sabbath as it is also o(ten called here, is still celebrated in En)land, althou)h in some parts more than in others. In ‘anchester, a city )enerally known (or its devoutness, one is hardly allowed to appear on the streets durin) church-time. Without a decent excuse, one risks at least one hour o( detention (or doin) so. To honour the Sabbath, the (la) (lutters (rom the castle o( ;hester on Sundays, just as it does on royal birthdays and other national holidays, accordin) to my in(ormation. Throu)hout the kin)dom, all si)hts are closed on this day and in only a (ew respectable households or public places people will be playin) cards, even thou)h re(rainin) (rom this is usually the only tribute paid to the Sunday. It can easily be concluded (rom all that I have said above, that this respect (or the Sunday is )enerally (adin) si)ni(icantly and that many people, especially in the capital, reserve this day (or parties and other (orms o( entertainment outside o( the city. ”rayin) at the table is also severely startin) to decrease in popularity. When it does occur, the (ather o( the household or a pastor, i( one is present, stands in (ront o( the table, stretches out his hands and )ives a short blessin) over the (ood. When the (ood is taken (rom the table, he will shortly )ive thanks. As no one prays (or themselves, it never occurs in any other places. The sciences have (ound )reat protectors and passionate patrons in this nation and they are both respected and (lourishin). Sound jud)ment, natural acuity, and an abundance o( skill to express onesel( can be counted amon)st the privile)es o( almost all En)lish people. They only know

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ENGLAND: PART TWO one lan)ua)e, which is their mother ton)ue in writin) as well as in speakin). “n the one hand, this leads to the disadvanta)e that they are less (amiliar with and read (ewer publications (rom (orei)n countries. “n the other hand, they do not have to waste any time studyin) di((icult works in other European lan)ua)es, and there is no science to be (ound that does not o((er its best work in En)lish. French is spoken so rarely and poorly that a (orei)ner would be deceived i( he thinks that he would be able to mana)e here. In Wales, an old ;eltic dialect that hardly resembles En)lish is still the standard. The :ible has been translated into this dialect and the pastors )ive one o( the sermons in this dialect, and the other one in En)lish. ;ommon people do not even know En)lish, and when addressed in this lan)ua)e, they will answer with I do not understand Saxon, as this is the name that they use (or it. ‘eanwhile, it makes some di((erence perhaps that the pronunciation o( the national lan)ua)e is nowhere near consistent across the country. The harsh accent o( Yorkshire di((ers endlessly (rom the so(t tones that the inhabitants o( Westminster are able to produce with their throat and ton)ue. ’o knowled)e is more widespread than that o( politics and anythin) that concerns the )overnment o( this nation. Everyone is equally experienced and even common people can sometimes be heard discussin) it in a judicious and coherent way. A dozen di((erent newspapers that are spread across the capital each day and so many others that are published in the most prominent provincial cities cause this study to be considerably more accessible and make politics as popular as can be. :y contrast, a vast i)norance dominates

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JOHAN MEERMAN everythin) that concerns (orei)n countries. ’otwithstandin) that no other nation travels more than the En)lish, they are cruder than one could ever ima)ine when abroad, they mostly min)le with each other, they learn the lan)ua)e o( the re)ion in which they (ind themselves poorly, and they do not o(ten interact with people (rom whom they could learn somethin). In short, they travel merely to see thin)s, not people, and o(ten simply travel because it has become (ashionable to take a Grand Tour o( Europe. This shortcomin) does have its exceptions and one will (ind that members o( the parliament and the ministry are anythin) but stran)ers in the cabinets o( Europe. The journals and translations o( En)lish works save me the trouble o( (urther discussin) the state o( the sciences in this kin)dom. It is well known how (ar several still-livin) men o( physics, chemistry, and astronomy have )one. :eside these works o( sciences, there are also works o( )ood taste and poetry, althou)h En)land can no lon)er account (or (irst class in)enuities in this respect. Earlier, I have commented on the bad or)anisation o( the public colle)es (or the youth, in contrast to the hi)h level o( skill that honorary members have attained there. These colle)es are either places where the youth is prepared (or academia, or places that to)ether constitute the universities. The (irst class mainly consists o( Westminster, Eton, and Winchester. I have ne)lected to visit these mysel( and thus cannot report on the particularities o( these institutes. The one thin) I know surely enou)h is that these colle)es teach little other than lan)ua)es. Another colle)e can be (ound in

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‘anchester, which rather owes its (ame to )enerous donations and a beauti(ul library than to the accomplishments that are made there. Around 80 boys are tau)ht here until the a)e o( (ourteen without their parents payin) any tuition, a(ter which they are )iven an allowance. This colle)e was privately (ounded in the previous century and the (ounders rural estates have been added to it. Each year, a (und o( 100 pounds sterlin) is reserved (or this institutes library to buy new books, a tradition that seems to be honoured. The (ounder did not want anyone to expand the institute a(ter him. “x(ord and ;ambrid)e are, as everyone knows, the two most renowned universities in En)land. To my belie(, the construction o( the (irst, which I shall shortly illustrate here, will adequately justi(y the impression I )leaned (rom how the students are introduced to the sciences. About ;ambrid)e I have nothin) in particular to say, except that it is with (ew di((erences a smaller replica o( “x(ord. Amon)st all youn) people that are sent to this University, none are allowed to live in lod)in)s in the city. They are spread around several colle)es, which to)ether (orm the academy. These colle)es are lar)e buildin)s, each equipped with a chapel, a dinin) room and livin) quarters (or all members. ‘ost colle)es also contain a library, )arden or at least a bi) courtyard and are endowed with prebends,28 pensions and )rants by the (ounders. In “x(ord, there are twenty such colle)es and another two halls o( colle)es without prebends. Alto)ether, the University has just under 2,000

28 Stipend assigned by a cathedral or church (OED).

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JOHAN MEERMAN members. The head o( each colle)e carries the name o( ”rincipal the supervision o( all members is his responsibility. He )overns the studies o( the pupils accordin) to the laws bound to him by the entire institute. The students are )enerally called commoners. I( they possess land or )reat capital, they are called )entlemen commoners, and i( they are o( noble linea)e, noblemen. All o( them have to pay, without exception, (or that which they enjoy at the colle)e, includin) their education. ’onetheless, at some colle)es students can be (ound who are known as Servitors or Famuli and are completely excluded (rom this rule, sometimes even receivin) money. “ne has to spend (our years in a colle)e be(ore they can obtain a :achelor o( Arts. Durin) this time students have one personal tutor or preceptor, who also has to reside at the colle)e. This tutor )ives them a daily class o( one hour or an hour-and-a-hal( (or ei)ht months a year, which consists mainly o( the interpretin) o( several Greek and Latin writers, some lo)ic, mathematics, and so on. The tutor teaches as many students per hour as he deems appropriate. Furthermore, he decides which books he wants his students to read and provides them with excerpts and translations to work on when they are alone and o(ten recommends them all sorts o( works to read in addition to the classics, old, and new writers o( history. In addition, towards the end o( the academic year, examinations are held throu)h exercises such as the writin) o( essays or poems, public debatin), and so on. “utside o( the colle)e, public education is o((ered in subjects such as mathematics, physical science, astronomy,

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ENGLAND: PART TWO chemistry, history and the likes. However, this education comes at a price and is not tau)ht by pro(essors in the (ield. The posts o( these pro(essors are merely advanta)eous and are hardly exercised. ‘ost o( these pro(essors do not even live in “x(ord. It is the )raduates (rom each colle)e, the Doctors and the ‘asters o( Arts, who take this task upon them. :e(ore a :achelor pupil can become a ‘aster o( Arts, they need to spend another three years at the University and meanwhile per(orm a variety o( public acts. When they have obtained this (inal rank o( ‘aster they can become a (ellow. Then, they can be)in to obtain scholarships, but do not have the (reedom o( livin) in the colle)e. There are all sorts o( scholarships, ran)in) (rom 30 to 200 pounds sterlin). However, those who are named tutors cannot obtain these scholarships (or themselves. The tutor )ets paid by his students, receivin) at least six to ei)ht pounds sterlin) (rom each. ’ext to that, they will o(ten (ind a small bene(ice near “x(ord, which those livin) in the colle)e can visit. Enterin) a marria)e collapses the (oundations o( tutor- and (ellowship. There are also demi(ellows who have to obtain certain scholarships be(ore they become ‘asters they are sometimes also called students. To become a Doctor, a lot more time and e((ort is required than to reach the level o( ‘aster o( Arts. For reasons that will be disclosed momentarily, one hardly ever aspires to achieve that rank in any (aculty other than the Faculty o( ”hilosophy. All members o( a colle)e dine in one room to)ether. Their comin)s and )oin)s in the house are controlled by rules and two times a day they )ather in the chapel o( the colle)e to pray.

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There is a special buildin) in “x(ord that accommodates a )atherin) o( all the colle)es at once, called the Schools. This is also where the public auditoria are held. In a recently added semicircular buildin) that carries the name o( Theatre, the annual orations, promotions, and such, are held. In the a(ternoons o( this party, which is celebrated (or three days in the be)innin) o( July, musical prayers are beauti(ully played and sun). All members o( the University are clad in a black )own and a hat. This hat has the shape o( a helmet, but with a (lat, square piece on top and a tassel in the middle. The (abric and decoration o( the cloak, as well as those o( the hat and tassel, di((er accordin) to the rank o( the students and the academic worth that a rank embodies. These robes are (latterin) in )eneral the pupils at “x(ord are well-bred and have a healthy (i)ure, posture, and manners. The ceremonial )arments o( pro(essors, doctors, and other noteworthy individuals are ornamented with (ur. The chancellor is the head o( the entire University however, this is merely seen as a title. All credit and responsibility must be )iven to the vice-chancellor, which is an annual position, althou)h the same person can be elected (ive consecutive times. ’ext to the vice-chancellor there are two proctors, also a yearly position. These are essentially moralists, who are assi)ned the supervision o( the behaviour o( the pupils. They have ministers underneath them. A student who is (ound in bad company, late at ni)ht or on the street without a mantle will be summoned be(ore those ministers and will be punished accordin)ly. This may be processed by )ivin) them chores, or when the crime is

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)reater, by extendin) the period o( promotion. A heavier penalty than banishment is not known at the academy and even that hardly ever occurs. The mana)ement o( the University )enerally resembles that o( the ’ation. The chancellor or his substitute reminds one o( the Kin)s ri)ht to rule the Doctors to)ether (orm the House o( Lords the ‘asters o( Art (orm a sort o( House o( ;ommons. This distinction is made, but the Doctors, havin) been ‘asters o( Arts, keep their vote in said )atherin). The Theatre serves as )round (or the (ormal )atherin)s o( the heads o( the University, althou)h the daily tasks are per(ormed in the Schools. The academy holds the lower law-re)ulations not only over the pupils, but also over the citizens. The costs (or the nation to this :ritish ;olle)e are not very hi)h, as most costs are covered by old (unds (rom each colle)e. “x(ord and ;ambrid)e are actually merely academies in literature and science, which are o(ten considered to be part o( the Faculty o( ”hilosophy. There are )raduates and pro(essors in theolo)ical, juridical, and medical (aculties, but one would have pro)ressed little in their studies o( these (ields even a(ter twenty years o( studyin) at these places without conductin) o( individual research. “ne o( the causes o( this is that in order to earn a doctorate, one has to study (or about (ourteen years. For medicine, this can be achieved si)ni(icantly (aster in Scotland. Those promoted in theolo)y or law are almost super(luous in the clerical courts only a doctorate in Jus is called upon. Those who want to dedicate themselves to national law )o to the Temple and Lincolns Inn in London, where a crowd o( lawyers live to)ether and where

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JOHAN MEERMAN the youth are raised under their supervision. Those who want to promote in medicine )o to Edinbur)h, (ollow theoretical classes (rom (amous doctors in London, or practice in hospitals. ”upils o( theolo)y o( the prevalent church, as other churches have their own special hi)her education, are ne)lected the most. ‘any accept the occupation o( teacher without understandin) Hebrew and even without consultin) current theolo)y. The construction o( the public service and the way o( preachin) almost makes studies like these unnecessary. The question o( whether even the academies o( “x(ord and ;ambrid)e excel in what is tau)ht cannot be easily answered by a stran)er. They have de(initely produced (amous men, outstandin) works, and, amon)st those, especially terri(ic editions o( old authors works. They boast several rich libraries and in “x(ord there is an especially beauti(ul observatory, as well as a collection o( statues, Greek and Roman inscriptions, and a coin- and paintin) cabinet. Above all that, there is a )reat supervision o( the pupils – all this to)ether is de(initely capable o( producin) pro)ress and to expand and encoura)e studies as well as make them more pleasant. However, whether the study o( the classic authors is the main occupation at “x(ord or the pleasantries o( li(e there, has yet to be determined. And whether bein) a )ood scholar is enou)h, a(ter shakin) o(( the dust o( the “x(ord colle)es, to make a prosperous entrance into the world, is somethin) I will leave to the wisdom o( others. The Royal ;ompany in London, made (amous by its ”hilosophical Transactions and (ormed by the e((orts o(

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ENGLAND: PART TWO various companies, is also an institution that serves to (urther expand the (ield o( the sciences in En)land. In several provincial towns this example was (ollowed, and ‘anchester has made a name (or itsel( by publishin) its ‘emorials. ’ext to that, in London there is a company o( experts on antiquity. In their quarters, they keep several curiosities (or example, a cork model o( the Temple o( Sybille in Tivoli, a Roman map o( Great-:ritain and Ireland, and a picture o( the meetin) o( Francis I and Henry VIII, printed on paper o( such size that it alone cost 100 pounds sterlin). Amon)st the (amous book collections in En)land, the one in the :ritish ‘useum deserves (irst place. I have already stated that there are twelve rooms (illed with printed books and (our (illed with manuscripts. The latter mainly concern the history o( the kin)dom. There are also many letters o( property, monastery diplomas, and many )enealo)ical papers to be (ound. :eauti(ully illuminated missals29 and )ospels, one o( which was used by Elizabeth, are also present. Two o( the most admired items are a ’ew Testament written completely in )olden letterin), and another especially old one that has become (amous because o( its readin) o( a place o( importance.30 There are also hand-written letters (rom several

29 Liturgical book containing instructions and texts necessary for the celebration of Mass throughout the year. 30 Footnote by ‘eerman Lord Doctor Woid in London has published this famous Alexandrian manuscript last year in folio. He proves with quite a high degree of certainty that it was written around the fourth century in Egypt. It is known that it was transferred to Constantinople in the eleventh century, and in the previous century to England. Concerning the readin) o( I Tim 3 vs 16, he proves that the ori)inal is God is

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En)lish monarchs as well as somethin) which is o( )reat importance to that kin)dom the ori)inal ‘a)na ;arta. A diploma o( one sheet o( parchment, it is similar to all documents (rom that time the letters are small and there are no distin)uishable (i)ures anymore on the seal. Due to its a)e, it has been )lued to a piece o( linen. ;oncernin) the printed works, every library that is bequeathed to the museum remains standin) on its own, just like those o( most kin)s. The hope o( seein) their name immortalised tempts many people into )ivin) )i(ts such as these and because o( this many o( the works in the institution are needlessly multiplied and their orders disrupted. It is not hard to surmise that besides many terri(ic, valuable, and rare works, this collection also contains many (irst editions and prints (rom the (i(teenth century. The best illuminated prints on natural history by ‘iss ‘arian deserve a special mention. The private library o( His ‘ajesty is situated in the palace o( the Queen and (ills three lar)e chambers. It unites the rare and the beauti(ul with works o( practical use. Everythin) is in excellent condition. Several models and mathematical instruments also belon) to the collection. I have already mentioned Dr Hunters collection o( (irst editions and other valuable books, which will soon move to Glas)ow.

revealed in the (lesh, rather than IT is revealed in the (lesh. It also seems that in later times, (earin) that Θ∑ would be read as “∑ instead, so the dash inside the Théta and above both letters was made thicker in an attempt to make it clearer. See Monthl. Review. Append. of the 76th part.

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In “x(ord, there are several important libraries. The :odleian Library belon)s to the entire University and is not bound to one colle)e in particular. Throu)hout the whole o( En)land there is no collection more complete than this one even thou)h it is located poorly as only hal( o( the books are viewable. Its structure resembles the letter H. In the mornin), it is open (or everyone, and permission to enter later is not hard to receive. Funds to buy more works are considerable and are used as they should. The catalo)ue o( the :odleian Library is printed, and serves as a blueprint (or all other libraries in town. Amon)st the many manuscripts that are kept here, the “riental ones excel. There are also manuscripts o( )reat a)e containin) the actions o( the apostles, with Latin on one side and Greek on the other, and each line containin) only one word. Additionally, there is a manuscript (rom Queen Elizabeth hersel(, containin) mostly proverbs. Amon)st the printed books, one can (ind the “((icia (rom ;icero by Fust in 1465 and a beauti(ul copy o( the En)lish :ible (rom 1717, o( which only (ive copies are known. The Radcli((e Library is the other public library in “x(ord althou)h its description classi(ies it more as a part o( en)ineerin) than o( scholarship. Dr Radcli((e, a medic, le(t 40,000 pounds sterlin) to the (oundation o( a chamber o( books, but he le(t nothin) (or its contents. This is why there is hardly a book to be (ound in this pretty and solitary dome, the entrance o( which is (ormed by ei)ht iron (ences stacked on top o( each other. The stairs and all the woodwork are maho)any, whereas the book chamber itsel( is covered by a beauti(ul dome and surrounded by a )allery. An attempt was

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JOHAN MEERMAN made to )ather all the manuscripts o( all the collections in “x(ord however, it became clear that it would be di((icult to convince each colle)e to separate with their treasures. Amon)st the libraries o( the special colle)es o( this university, those o( ;hrist ;hurch, which has a selection o( pictures, All- Souls, and St John excel. All o( these libraries are in rectan)ular halls while the (irst two are counted amon)st the most beauti(ul, both (or their location as well as (or the continually )rowin) collection o( works they contain, the latter is the oldest. In the name o( the extrava)ance o( human in)enuity, a pen-drawn portrait o( ;harles I is displayed here, the ed)es and shadows o( which to)ether (rom 150 psalms. ‘ore attention should be paid to a piece o( John the :aptist in a kind o( Florentine mosaic, copied a(ter a piece by Raphael, althou)h this is more related to the arts than to science. In ;ambrid)e, the public library and the one (rom Trinity ;olle)e are the most noteworthy the (irst has a beauti(ul (acade, a beauti(ul interior, and an outstandin) collection o( books. :esides several ;hinese maps and a (ine miniature pa)oda made out o( rice, a ”ersian work on astronomy is shown, written on cotton, beauti(ully illuminated, and said to have cost 100 pounds sterlin). I believe the kin) o( France donated it to the academy. There are also manuscripts o( the (our )ospels written in uncial letterin) in Greek and Latin, which was )iven by :eza31 and is estimated to be as old as the thirteenth century. ’ext to this, the public library hosts

31 French Protestant Christian theologist and scholar, who played an important role in the reformation.

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ENGLAND: PART TWO several drawin)s o( Rembrandt and an excess o( prints (rom the (i(teenth century, the most excellent o( which is a ”liny,32 printed by ’icholas Jenson on parchment in 1476 in Venice and equipped with beauti(ully illuminated pictures. The library o( Trinity ;olle)e is beauti(ul downstairs there are several old epitaphs, the stairs are (it (or a kin), and the book chamber is lon), broad, hi)h and entirely modern. The books are placed in closets resemblin) chantries, one o( which is (illed with rare items (rom some ”aci(ic islands. In ”eterborou)h, in the library o( the ;athedral, there is a manuscript o( a :ible in octavo, written very neatly and (ound in a co((in to)ether with a )reen mantle with lilies in which a body was rolled. It is estimated that it is at least 900 years old. I have already spoken o( the collection o( the colle)e o( ‘anchester. Almost every nobleman owns a library, especially in the mansions that are visited (or si)htseein). This is either because it is seen as a necessity in a well-(urnished castle, or because the owner takes pleasure (rom usin) it. ‘ost times the books are kept in one stretched room. There are o(ten many valuable works to be (ound, althou)h I have almost never (ound them shelved in a bearable order. The library o( the Duke o( ‘arlborou)h in :lenheim )reatly stands out amon)st other collections, althou)h the way in which people are led throu)h does not leave much room (or close inspection. The only thin) I can say about it is that it is (illed with Editiones ”rincipes. The Duke o( ’orthumbria also owns two pretty libraries in his respective outhouses in Syon House

32 Pliny the Elder. The print in question is a copy of his Natural History.

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JOHAN MEERMAN and Alnwick, additional to the one in his house in the city. Amon)st the coin cabinets in En)land or even in Europe, there is none more distin)uished and complete than the one le(t by Dr Hunter, in which even be(ore his death the (amous collection o( Duan(an) was included. The collection displays a number o( E)yptian, Syrian and ”ersian medals, the Greek coins o( kin)s and cities, amon)st those the most beauti(ul works that can be thou)ht o(. The Roman emperors in )old, silver, and copper are almost complete and in both silver and copper there are also several senators and consuls, several o( which very old. Amon)st those o( the (irst emperors there are several made with excellent skill. Generally, the most rare and valuable pieces, o( which only a (ew were minted, are (ound amon)st this. As o( now, this collection belon)s to a new medal-cabinet, the main (ocus o( which is all En)lish medals and coins. “x(ord also owns two collections o( that sort one in the :odleian Library, which is well maintained and o( which there is a printed catalo)ue. Amon)st the Greek coins there are both silver and )old coins o( incomparable beauty and condition. ‘any o( those are (rom Athens or are imperial coins, while there are also bank notes and paper coins. The other collection, above the library o( the ;hrist ;hurch ;olle)e, unites Greek, Roman, and En)lish coins. “( the several observatories in En)land, I have only seen the Kin)s observatory in the )ardens o( Richmond. It contains three or (our rooms with all sorts o( mathematical and astronomical instruments, several natural products, models, and other curiosities. The )alactic quadrant and sector stand

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ENGLAND: PART TWO out amon)st the instruments, althou)h everythin) that is located here, includin) barometers, thermometers, telescopes and so on, is sure to be the most precise and valuable o( their kind. “ne cannot think o( a method to do observations with which is not used here. From the sciences, I will move to the arts. I will not discuss the mechanical arts, partly because the En)lish (oremen make enou)h (ame (or themselves by sendin) their products to other countries, and partly because I will have much to discuss about the (actories and the (urnishin)s o( many a house. “nly the collections o( models that the ;ompany o( Arts, an institution upon which the Dutch economic branch o( the science society is partly based, keeps in their )atherin) house, needs to be mentioned. It is very considerable and consists mainly o( newly discovered tools to ease a)ricultural labour, with the addition o( (ire hoses, windmills, and such. In several o( these inventions the in)enuity o( the masters is admirable. The waterworks in London, which supply the city with this indispensable element, should also be viewed attentively. ;onsiderin) the (ine arts, they are practiced in En)land on a hi)her level than anywhere else in Europe, even includin) Italy. The visitations to this country by wealthy :rits, who spared no costs or e((orts to trans(er the best products o( Greek, Roman and new Italian masters to their country, or at least to have them copied by capable hands, has worked to spread )ood taste throu)hout the kin)dom. The encoura)in) and rich payment o( national artists who took example (rom these classical artists, the )randeur that is spent on outhouses,

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JOHAN MEERMAN the (oundin) o( an academy (or painters and sculptors, and the annual showin) o( their works, has served the kin)dom to seldom abne)ate its )ood taste and caused it to be (ree (rom the mannered and tampered style the French use to ruin otherwise beauti(ul pieces, because it is based directly on the purity o( antiquity. The (ield o( architecture has pro)ressed exceptionally well, and the (amous ‘r Adam is ri)htly still considered to be one o( the )reatest masters. ;hurches, palaces, mansions, halls, temples, brid)es, theatres, interior desi)n, and the decoration o( buildin)s all o( this, (rom ’orthumbria to ;ornwall, speaks (or the persistent and )lee(ul study o( the best architects (rom Greece. The painters make up an entire army. Sir Joshua Reynolds, the director o( the Royal Academy o( Arts, who has made a name (or himsel( in the (ield o( historical pieces and portraits, is at the helm. West33 is equally outstandin) in historical paintin)s. Amon)st the others there are )ood and avera)e painters. The many )alleries that are in this kin)dom unite the works o( the best Italian and Flemish masters. There is an especially lar)e collection o( works by Rubens and Van Dyck. In contrast, there are not nearly as many paintin)s (rom born En)lishmen. The practice o( paintin) on )lass has reached levels o( per(ection in recent years. Lord Jervis, livin) in London or surroundin)s, and Lord Ea)leton, (rom :irmin)ham, practice this art, but keep their methods o(

33 Benjamin West, eighteenth century Anglo-American history painter (Evans).

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ENGLAND: PART TWO makin) the paint stick to the )lass a secret, similar to the paintin)s o( other masters. With the latter, I have seen a window o( about (our (eet hi)h and hal( as broad which cost 60 pounds sterlin). ;oncernin) the condition o( en)ravin)s, the En)lish pictures are too well known to have to be mentioned. The satirical pictures belon) to the same cate)ory produced (or every new day and event, althou)h not badly drawn, serve more to prove the )enius o( the nation and its lust (or ridicule rather than belon)in) to the main part o( the arts. The many monuments in the churches, the other memorials in public places, the decorations o( pleasure )ardens and even some (actories concern themselves with encoura)in) the art o( sculpturin) and to make it indispensable. In this (ield, there are also several outstandin) artists, althou)h not as many as the ones who have already (allen to the wayside, and not enou)h so as to earn a bi) name (or themselves abroad. Almost the same can be said o( sculptors o( stone. Here and there special collections o( antique statues, busts, bas-relie(s or )ood copies, and other products o( new national and international masters can be (ound. I will now take everythin) to)ether, as I see no possibility to separately discuss every work o( art that mi)ht be interestin) (or a stran)er. I will shortly )o throu)h the En)lish masterpieces o( architecture, paintin), and sculpturin) that deserve to be seen. I will start in London with the Somerset House, because the Academy o( Arts )athers there and the annual showin) o(

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JOHAN MEERMAN their best products is held there. “nly recently was this buildin) renewed in the most beauti(ul manner now, its architecture o((ers di((erent (acades, columns that are brou)ht in (rom abroad, and an inner courtyard which has many decorations o( the city. It can be used (or a plethora o( thin)s already, it is used by all royal academies (or their )atherin)s. Lawyers and other jurists will (ind their livin) quarters there and obtain (ollowers in the same manner as happens in the temple and elsewhere. The rooms, which belon) to the painters academy, are located on the ri)ht side o( the entrance, on multiple (loors. A library and two rooms (illed with copies o( (amous antiques and some paintin)s are constantly in use. Durin) the time o( the public exhibition, which takes place in the be)innin) o( summer and lasts (or six weeks, one extra room downstairs and two rooms upstairs, one o( which is a )reat hall with a skyli)ht, are also opened. All artists who choose to entrust their works to the jud)ment o( the public, i( they are not above all criticism, are (ree to make use o( the rooms. However, sometimes there are disputes amon)st the directors about the placement o( pieces. ‘ost o( what is on display are paintin)s, amon)st which many portraits and architectural models. There are several statues and bas-relie(s, pottery, cut stones, émail, and so on. The audience would only need to check the catalo)ue on the incoherent jumble o( names to realise that there are pieces o( many di((erent back)rounds, and there(ore many mediocre ones are exhibited. The continuous stream o( audience that can be (ound there at any time that the doors are opened, are

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ENGLAND: PART TWO above ima)ination. “ne ima)ines bein) in a nation o( male and (emale painters. Apart (rom St ”eters :asilica in Rome, Londons St ”aul ;athedral is the bi))est and most beauti(ul piece o( modern architecture o( that sort in Europe. It is known that it has the shape o( a Grecian cross and there(ore the dome is placed ri)ht in the middle. Its older siblin) at the Tiber is also decorated with a dome, but that one is shaped like a re)ular cross, and the dome is placed more towards the end. Even when one has seen the one in Rome, one cannot help but step into Londons St ”auls with a reverent admiration and reco)nise its beauty both (rom the inside and out. It is only a shame that one cannot view the architecture o( the London cathedral (rom a distance, except (rom on the )raveyard in (ront. It is also a shame that the (umes (rom coals have made the white stone almost black, and that the most hideous or)an to ever have marred the appearance o( a church does not only dama)e the beauty o( the rest, but that it is even placed above the entrance o( the choir, which blocks the viewin) o( the entire thin) when standin) in the middle o( the dome. Furthermore, this choir is the only place in the church where mass is held everywhere else is per(ectly empty, even lackin) relics o( the deceased. Westminster Abbey is o( a whole other nature. Erected in the centuries in which the Roman reli)ion ruled with Gothic architecture in Europe, it carries si)ns o( both in its (orm and decorations. It is beauti(ul amon)st its own kind, proud and not heavily built. The stone vault o( the chapel o( Kin) Henry VIII, some (ew stairs hi)h above the choir, where the

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JOHAN MEERMAN order o( the :ath holds their chapters, is the most admirable. It is chiselled with such precision, that it seems as i( it has a roo( made o( :russels lace. I have already spoken o( the many tombs in this abbey. ;oncernin) taste and sculptures, they di((er )reatly (rom each other. ‘any have decorated them so heavily with statues and sculptures that they appear to crush the dead rather than immortalise their memory. “thers are Gothic like the abbey and are even painted. Some carry mediocre sculptures, and some are the result o( a master at work. The tomb o( the ’i)htin)ale and his wi(e, cra(ted by Roubillac, is supposed to be the most beauti(ul o( creations made by the chisels o( modern artists. It was erected a(ter the death o( the wi(e, who died (irst she is pictured sittin) next to her husband, in whose arms she will soon breathe her last breath. Death appears out o( an iron door with bolts, which is down, with an arrow in hand to hit the woman. The man tries to de(lect the blow, and his (ace shows all the pleadin)s with which people pray (or salvation (rom the worst disasters, and is (ull o( the despair which is (elt when convinced no more can be done. The monument o( General James Wol(e, which I believe made by Rysbrack,34 is similarly amazin). He lies dyin) in the arms o( a lower-rankin) o((icer. Victory comes to tell him o( the victory at Quebec.35 :elow, the strata)em is depicted, which lead to the victory. The tomb o( William Har)rave, commander o( Gibraltar, depicts a tear in the wall, which topples over at the

34 John Michael Rysbrack, eighteenth-century Flemish sculptor (Eustace). 35 Battle of Quebec (1775).

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ENGLAND: PART TWO blow o( the last trumpet. Admiral Tyrell died at sea and was also buried there, accordin) to his own wish. The bas-relie( o( his memorial depicts him arisin) (rom the sea a)ain, with the epi)raph And the sea shall relinquish her dead. Lord ;hatham has been )iven a )or)eous tomb by the nation, with a standin) e((i)y o( the statesman in the middle, and other symbolic (i)ures on the side. In a small upper chamber in the wall o( the abbey one can also see, next to wax (i)ures o( kin)s and queens, a (i)ure o( that same )entleman. It was recently made by an American woman,36 who has since passed away. It is both o( excellent cra(t and o( )reat resemblance he stands in his dukes robes and other clothin) he was wont to wear it holds nature, li(e and truth. The other new monuments in this abbey, which )row in number every day, I will not mention lest I be too len)thy, althou)h some, such as the one (rom the Duchess o( ’orthumbria, are de(initely worth mentionin). Amon)st the amazin) wealth o( parish-churches in London there are some, especially amon)st the newer ones, that are distin)uished because o( their style. The (acade o( St Geor)es ;athedral o((ers a peristyle, carried by (our columns. The one in ;ovent Garden, built in the same manner but in a di((erent style, has Ini)o Jones as buildin) master, and is o(ten pictured, althou)h it seems di((icult to me to )et used to the breadth o( the protrudin) ed)e o( the (ronton. The church o( St Stephen Walbrook should be visited because o( the interior. It has the shape o( a squat Roman cross with a dome in the middle. The

36 Patience Wright, first recognized American-born sculptor. Mainly known for her wax figures (Yarrington).

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JOHAN MEERMAN pieces on top are supported by three columns and those on the bottom by (ive. Recently, West painted an altar piece depictin) Stephanus bein) carried away a(ter his stonin). The piece is )enerally beauti(ul, even thou)h the body o( the martyr has too (ew wounds (or such a death. In this respect, the artist has )iven up too much o( nature (or the sake o( beauty. ;lose to this church and close to each other is the house o( the Lord ‘ayor, the Royal Exchan)e, the :ank o( En)land and the ;ity Hall. The (irst, usually called ‘ansion House, is very lar)e, and has a beauti(ul albeit heavy architecture. There is even a story circulatin) that the )racelessness o( this buildin) was so unbearable to a certain specialist that he travelled 200 miles every year just to come to London to have the pleasure o( urinatin) a)ainst the side o( the buildin). In the (ront, a double staircase leads to a hi)h peristyle where six ;orinthian columns support a (ronton the sidewalls are decorated with pillars in the same style. The E)yptian room on the inside is meant (or )rand meals. A )allery, which runs in a circle on the upper (loor, also rests on columns, althou)h since they are equally heavy, the )allery has to be supported by wooden poles. The ceilin) is o( an awesome hei)ht. There are several other beauti(ul rooms to be (ound in ‘ansion House. However, since each who holds the (unction o( Lord ‘ayor only stays there (or a year it is lo)ical that the (urnishin)s do not answer to the splendour o( the buildin) itsel(. This holds true especially considerin) that sometimes they are merely minor tradesmen who suddenly (ind themselves moved (rom a dreary shop to this palace. Some (urniture, however, as well

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ENGLAND: PART TWO as several servants and the silver crockery always remain in possession o( the house. The Royal Exchan)e is a square monstrosity with covered )alleries all around, like most buildin)s o( that sort, and o( no pleasin) architecture. In size, it does not even come close to the Amsterdam Exchan)e, althou)h the London traders usually arran)e everythin) in the co((ee houses be(ore it is time (or the stock exchan)e. In the middle, there is a nice statue o( ;harles II, and a)ainst the second (loor, placed in niches, there are depictions o( the kin)s and queens who have ruled be(ore. Geor)e III already (inds his place (illed. The memory o( the architect and several other persons are also immortalised here. Upstairs is the co((ee house o( the insurers. The :ank o( En)land lies behind the Royal Exchan)e. A new win) is bein) added to (unction as a corps de )arde since the tumult in 1780 put the repository o( En)lands treasures in )reat dan)er. It is o( li)hter and more pleasant architecture than the Stocks buildin). It consists o( a lar)e round hall in the middle where li)ht pours in (rom above. Four other smaller rooms are connected to it, all ordered and decorated in )ood taste. These serve as places o( transportation o( several (unds, and (or the division o( dividends. The commissions are between the columns, upon which the rooms rest. The letters o( the alphabet that are painted on the columns tell anyone in need o( a commission to which direction they should turn, based on the (irst letter o( their name. Downstairs are the money vaults. The room o( bank directors is a beauti(ul, rectan)ular, and well-decorated chamber.

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The only noteworthy thin) about the Gothic ;ity Hall, called the Guild Hall, is the )reat hall. It hosts )atherin)s and parties (or the bour)eoisie and hosts the lottery as well. The memorial (or Lord ;hatham, which is put in the same room, was not yet on display when I last visited it. There is also a statue o( William :ed(ord, a renowned ‘ember o( ”arliament o( London, with his admonishment to the Kin) in 1770 en)raved in the pedestal. Still, amon)st these recent products o( sculpture a pair o( coloured, wooden statues o( )iants, which are named Go) and ‘a)o),37 stand out. These have probably been part o( the buildin)s decorations since its (oundation. Westminster Hall, where the ;olle)es o( Justice lead to, is lar)er but is decorated in the same (ashion. The Great Hall o( the ;ourt o( The Ha)ue is similar to it and holds the criminal court cases o( the nobility o( the kin)dom. I will pass by The ‘onument or The ;olumn, erected in memory o( the Great Fire o( 1666, without (urther mention. It is similar to several other towers in hei)ht, whilst its crown at the top, accessible by a spiral staircase, can contain a lar)e )roup o( people. :ecause they are abundantly represented in pictures, I will quietly pass by the Westminster and :lack(riars :rid)e, too, even thou)h they are both beauti(ul and similar in len)th - (i(teen and nine arches respectively - and display excellent cra(tsmanship. Likewise, I will not mention all o( the statues

37 According to the Hebrew Bible, Gog and Magog may be individuals, peoples, or lands; a prophesied enemy nation of God's people according to the Book of Ezekiel, and one of the nations according to Genesis descended from Japheth son of Noah.

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ENGLAND: PART TWO o( late kin)s and queens individually that are situated on several squares in London. The equestrian statue o( the un(ortunate ;harles I, cast in bronze, (aces the direction where the power(ul rival o( the monarch had him decapitated. The sca((old was built in (ront o( a window o( Whitehall, a buildin) that ;harles had be)un to build and which he had intended to be a beauti(ul palace, althou)h only the banquet hall was (inished. It was suited (or receivin) and welcomin) (orei)n envoys at this moment, it has been trans(ormed into a chapel. Apart (rom the (ate o( its (ounder, it is noteworthy (or its ceilin) on which Rubens has painted several symbolic (i)ures on di((erent panels. The centrepiece in particular has been executed per(ectly and all o( the di((iculties that come with paintin) a ceilin), includin) the overhead placement and ensurin) the (i)ures will be shown at their best, have been easily overcome. St Jamess ”alace is almost nothin) more than a raw collection o( bricks. There(ore, it is merely used (or audiences and similar occasions, while the royal (amily resides at :uckin)ham House at the end o( the park, which people now re(er to as the Queens ”alace. It is pleasant accommodation because o( its (ine location, simple yet e((icient architecture, and lar)e )arden at the back. The staircase is beauti(ul and the rooms are spacious and (unctional but not (urnished with the ele)ance (ound in some residences o( lords and the elite. :esides the library, which I have already discussed, and several sculptures placed a)ainst the wall in one the rooms, one can also admire a collection o( paintin)s o( the old masters, divided throu)hout the main rooms. Amon)st these,

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JOHAN MEERMAN the (amous and (requently described Raphael ;artoons stand out, consistin) o( seven lar)e biblical historical pieces. Furthermore, a number o( Van Dyck paintin)s and other works o( Italian, French, Flemish, and En)lish schools are united here. Several drawin)s o( renowned masters are kept upstairs. I have already said much about the :ritish ‘useum. Aside (rom the natural history section and its book collection, it (unctions as a stora)e space (or art. “ut o( 25 rooms, (our are used to display Etruscan vases and other ancient arte(acts as well as the clothin) and household items o( the inhabitants o( the islands o( the ”aci(ic “cean. It is common knowled)e that the Kni)ht Hamilton, envoy to the kin) o( the Two Sicilies,38 sent most o( the Etruscan vases to En)land. Hamiltons work on those vases and Wed)ewoods copies have )reatly contributed to make their (orm and the manner in which they are painted which has become (amous amon)st art lovers the base colour is usually brown and the ima)es red. ‘ost vases were (ound near ;apua and some contain Greek letters. Amon)st these vases, one stands out (or its size and beauty it is presumed that the sacri(ice o( ;astor and ”ollux is depicted on it. “n another vase, one can see the (able o( the Hesperidins. Everythin) that belon)s to Ancient E)ypt, Greece, and Rome is collected in these rooms (rom o((erin)s and jewellery to items belon)in) to (estivities and )ames, to

38 The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies was the largest of the states of Italy before the Italian unification. It was formed as a union of the Kingdom of Sicily and the Kingdom of Naples, which collectively had long been called the Two Sicilies and lasted from 1815 until 1860 (EB).

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ENGLAND: PART TWO provincial and daily use, (unerals, and much more. Additionally, a piece o( (lat )lass is preserved with the )uarantee that it is old. ‘oreover, one can (ind several statues and cameos. These curiosities, apart (rom the Turkish and ;hinese rarities, were collected on several journeys to the islands in the ”aci(ic “cean by the En)lish and take up a )reat amount o( space. However, it appears to me that the museum o( Sir Ashton Lever is more complete. The downstairs quarters o( the house, which contain the museum, are (illed with household items, clothin), armour o( the people o( “taheite, Sandwich islanders, and other wild peoples. All o( these peoples were visited by ;aptain ;ook on his last journey, o( which only a small portion in the Atlas was part o( his journal. The ropes, nets, (ine textiles, and clothes deserve a special remark. Re)ardin) the breast plates, some wildlin)s placed do)teeth, horns, or shells next to each other in square shapes. Aside (rom several less important ancient arte(acts, a collection o( art can be (ound, amon)st which are :russels lace and (lower baskets made (rom cut paper by ‘iss Greaves, which are the most beauti(ul I have ever seen. In the buildin) o( the Art Society, the recently painted wall o( the beauti(ul con(erence room should be admired. An Irish master painted the pro)ress o( art (rom the uncivilised state o( humankind to the eventual reward o( those who have used their talents to humankinds bene(it. Althou)h much can be remarked upon the paintin), the use o( colour is excellent. Amon)st the paintin)s, which are almost li(e sized on the

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(ore)round, there are several portraits o( (amous :ritish people, some o( whom are still alive. The ”antheon is a buildin) with a wonder(ul interior, built by a youn) architect several years a)o suited (or concerts, dances, and other such entertainment. The Great Hall has a dome illuminated with 4,000 li)hts in the middle and lon), broad hallways on (our sides. A )allery surrounds the room and is supported by plaster columns that imitate the marble. This hall, as well as other rooms in this buildin), is taste(ully decorated with paintin)s, bas-relie(s, and beauti(ul (urniture, whilst the walls are made o( dyed and painted plasterwork. The houses o( the Dukes o( ’orthumberland, Richmond, Devonshire, and that o( Lord Spencer deserve the attention o( art lovers. About the (irst, which was closed because o( reconstruction works last year, I shall only say that it used to hold several ori)inal paintin)s and )ood copies o( paintin)s. The Great Hall, which covers the len)th o( an entire win), is the principal ornament (ive pieces, which are copies o( the best Italian masters, (ill the room. “( these, the middle piece is ‘en)s imitation o( Raphaels school o( Athens. The houses o( Devonshire and Richmond are less noteworthy (or their (urniture than (or their paintin)s, in which especially the (ormer stands out. I will re(rain (rom (ocussin) on the summation o( everythin) displayed here as a work titled The En)lish ;onnoisseur39 already contains an elaborate

39 The English Connoisseur is a book containing an account of curiosities in paintings, sculpture, etc. in the Palaces and Seats of the Nobility and Principal Gentry of England, Both in Town and Country (Martyn).

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ENGLAND: PART TWO evaluation o( this and other En)lish chambers. In addition to that, three or (our modern statues can be (ound at Goodwood House, the Duke o( Richmonds country house, includin) an immensely beauti(ul sleepin) Venus. Lord Spencers house can claim the (orei)ners admiration due to its pleasant location near the Green ”ark, the taste and beauty o( the (urnishin)s o( the downstairs quarters, the exquisite staircase, and the paintin)s that are kept upstairs. The )reat dinin) hall, milords library, and his wi(es apartment are particularly beauti(ul. In the most recently (inished quarters o( the house they have used the current En)lish custom o( plasterin) the walls, (irst ensurin) that the walls have a smooth sur(ace be(ore addin) carvin)s or bas-relie(s. A(ter the walls have dried (or two or three years they are painted with so(t blended colours and arabesques, named a(ter the Lo)es by Raphael, while the ceilin) is painted as well. The result o( this custom is deli)ht(ul i( it is not too colour(ul. The royal pleasure palaces o( Hampton ;ourt and Windsor are worth a visit both are located near the river Thames but at di((erent distances (rom London. Hampton ;ourt ”alace has a (acade in the Gothic style on the side o( Hampton, whereas on the other side the (acade is built accordin) to common architecture. The staircase is re)al the quarters throu)h which one is led, (ollow one another on two sides in a lon) row, as was customary at the time. Apart (rom some paintin)s however, there is little to catch ones attention. Windsor ;astle, which I mentioned when I spoke o( the portraits, is located on a hill with the eponymous town at its (eet. There

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JOHAN MEERMAN are so many buildin)s belon)in) to the palace that the hill almost has a town o( its own. The chapel o( the colle)ial church, in which the Kni)hts o( the Garter were initiated, is lar)e and o( pleasant Gothic architecture however, in all (airness, it is too short. “ne can see old and new stained )lass and the (amous Lord Jervis has constructed a lar)e masterpiece o( a window (or this church. The (ine altarpiece depicts the Representation o( the Last Supper and was (ound in some (or)otten corner already durin) Elizabeths rei)n. Amon)st the tombs o( the chapel, the tomb o( the Earl o( :eau(ort has been the best desi)n. The actual palace is extremely elon)ated, even without takin) the tower that people see when they pass by, where prisoners o( war used to be held captive, into account. The arran)ement o( the quarters is almost the same as in Hampton ;ourt ”alace, but here they are (ound in a square and the ceilin)s o( most quarters have been painted. The displayed paintin)s are (ar superior to those o( the other palace and the piece called The ‘isers by Quentin ‘atsys, the :lacksmith o( Antwerp, has acquired hu)e and well-deserved (ame. The beauti(ul St Geor)es hall displays the triumph o( the :lack ”rince on the walls and is the place where a kni)ht would eat a(ter he had settled. The private chapel o( the royal (amily deserves to be noticed because o( its paintwork. In one o( the quarters there is a wonder(ul embroidered bed in a desi)n exhibitin) the most exquisite taste. It was recently )iven to the queen as a )i(t by a youn) lady. For the remainder, the royals do not stay in this palace, but in a small buildin) at the (oot o( the hill which is called Windsor Lod)e. The reason (or this rather odd

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ENGLAND: PART TWO decision lies in the enormous expanse o( Windsor ;astle that requires a lar)e number o( servants. Greenwich Hospital40 consists o( (our win)s two next to each other, parallel to the river, and the other two across (rom one another, (ormin) ri)ht an)les with the previously mentioned win)s and (acin) onto the river. Surrounded by win)s, there is a lawn with a statue o( Kin) William IV erected at its centre. However, when (acin) towards the hill o( Greenwich ”ark, one can see a (amous observatory and a buildin) that was constructed in the imitation o( the :astille, the (ounder o( which is well known around here. Alon)side the Thames there is a beauti(ul iron (ence and the win)s are o( a wonder(ul architecture, especially on the side (acin) the river. All types o( orders )ather here and the most pleasant colonnades are placed there with much architectural knowled)e. The chapel, which burnt down only recently, houses the (amous ”ainted Hall (ormerly used to host lar)e (easts, but at present more (or sacred customs. The paintin)s on the ceilin) and walls are hi)hly admired and are mostly alle)ories o( En)lands power. The head o( an old man o( 130 years who lived here is noteworthy in particular, as he portrays Winter, which was also his name. In this room, the carvin)s o( several painted pillars turned out superbly moreover, there is a beauti(ul masterpiece carved (rom wood. Lord Tylneys castle has a beauti(ul (acade and it contains a corps de lo)is with two win)s that are only sli)htly lower than that. A hi)h peristyle with six ;orinthian columns leads to the

40 Today known as Old Royal Naval College.

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JOHAN MEERMAN vestibule, which has the most remarkable interior o( the entire buildin) and is decorated with )reat taste. “n the ceilin), one can see an alle)orical paintin) and around the room there are antiques and modern statues. The quarters run alon) the entire house in two rows and are (urnished in an old-(ashioned way. However, one can (ind several paintin)s o( the old masters and in some places (ine table tops and antique sculptures made (rom marble. ’ot lon) a)o, a new owner acquired the castle and )ave hope that the royal but run-down buildin) will once a)ain return to its (ormer )lory. ;hiswick House is o( a unique style an octa)onal dome at its centre is surrounded by (our rooms and just as many chambers. The (acade (acin) the road is very unpleasant to look at, but the interior is (illed with superb paintin)s the principal piece is by Guido Rheni and depicts the art o( paintin) and sketchin). In the court o( ;arlo ‘aratti, a paintin) o( ;hrist and several others draw a lot o( admiration to themselves. In the )arden, several a(orementioned items are worth seein) (or art lovers. ‘rs ;hilds “sterley ”ark is reco)nised as the most ele)antly (urnished house in and around London. Un(ortunately, I missed out on this pleasure as I only obtained a ticket the day be(ore my departure. ;lose to “sterley, there is the beauti(ul Syon House o( the Duke o( ’orthumberland. The )ate at the road, which is accommodated by a )atehouse on each side, as can be (ound at all major manors in En)land, are o( an exquisite desi)n a well-sculpted lion stands above the middle arch on its own. The exterior o( the house is very plain however, the interior unites a royal splendour with exclusive taste, which is only

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ENGLAND: PART TWO rene)ed by the excessive use o( colours. The visitors attention is instantly drawn towards a wonder(ul vestibule decorated with columns at every end, (our antique statues, and two well- made copies. This is (ollowed by a lar)e square chamber with twelve columns o( vert-antique alon)side the walls, which much have cost an unima)inable price. There is too much )ildin) overall, but between a couple o( pillars there is an excellent statue. ’ext there is a stunnin) hall in which, amon)st other thin)s, there are two table tops covered in old mosaic. The door posts and (riezes are made o( ivory and laid in with (ire )ilded carvin)s. ‘antelpieces with the most beauti(ul bas-relie(s, mantelpieces o( the (inest cut steal, and mirrors o( enormous sizes no expense was spared here. The library consists o( a lon) )allery with a small chamber on each side end and is uniquely painted with exquisite arabesques. Lord ;lives ;laremont has a new, almost square buildin) with a peristyle carried by six columns, accessible via two sets o( stairs. “n the inside, everythin) bears si)ns o( ele)ant neatness rather than splendour. However, the multitude o( excellent paintin)s by some )reat Italian masters deems it very remarkable. The mantelpieces and ceilin) murals are also beauti(ul and the stairs are re)al, even thou)h everythin) in this buildin) is not completed yet.41 Althou)h there are no houses at ”ains Hill, the place contains so many beauti(ul thin)s (or a lover o( art as well as (or an admirer o( nature. The Temple o( :acchus is an

41 Footnote by ‘eerman As I have learnt (rom the En)lish newspapers, Claremont has been sold only recently.

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JOHAN MEERMAN elon)ated square with exterior )alleries carried by columns. Several copies o( antiques can be (ound in niches between some o( these columns. At the centre o( the temple, there is a statue o( :acchus measurin) seven (eet in hei)ht. His ri)ht arm is raised holdin) a bunch o( )rapes in his hand while his le(t arm leans on a )rapevine. This deli)ht(ul statue was brou)ht over (rom Italy and cost the buyer 500 pounds sterlin). The statue is somewhat too lar)e (or the room, which does not resemble the interior o( a temple. A)ainst the wall, there are some antique busts, and a lar)e number o( these can also be (ound in the rooms o( the tower, which has its (oundations here. I mentioned the columbarium, holdin) several ancient urns, only in passin). The cathedrals o( ;anterbury, Winchester, and Salisbury are worth a visit. The (irst has a very plain exterior but as soon as one enters it there are corner pillars to be (ound, some o( which are (oolishly thin while others are o( a more reasonable thickness. The choir can be reached by stairs and beneath it the sermon is held in French. :ehind the (irst choir there is a second choir, where earlier one could see the )rave o( Thomas :eckett. The tomb o( Edward, the :lack ”rince, is also displayed here. Above it han)s his velvet and )old- embroidered under)arment, to)ether with his )loves, hood, helmet, and sheath. ‘ost o( the windows o( this church are painted. ’ext to the church is another chapel where prayers are bein) read on a daily basis. Several small chapels are (illed with monuments that o( a bishop is located in the Vir)in ‘arys ;hapel and consists o( marble skulls, ribs, and bones. This buildin) has su((ered a lot durin) civil wars.

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Winchester ;athedral, which is also very plain on the outside, is constructed with the heaviest style o( architecture. The nave has been renovated, yet the ;hoir is extremely old. This church is covered in memorials one can (ind the six Saxon kin)s or the (irst ;hristian kin)s, o( a number o( bishops, and the (irst ‘embers o( ”arliament. For some o( these monuments, entire chapels have been built, and amon)st those chapels one can still (ind a couple o( splendid ones in the old (ashion. Salisbury ;athedral (orms a double cross and the beauti(ul tower, which is at the centre o( the church, is pointed, very hi)h, and proportional to the rest o( the buildin). Apart (rom the expanse o( the buildin), one can also admire the location and the pleasant Gothic elements, even thou)h the pillars inside are almost too thin (or the colossus. Every pillar is surrounded by smaller pillars and it is estimated that there are as many pillars as there are hours in a year and as many windows as day in a year. The (our columns that carry the tower are tripled on top o( each other only the (our bottom ones are solid, whereas the other ei)ht are hollow inside. Since subsidence was (ound, arches have been constructed in order to stop that pro)ress. Several ancient and new memorials can be (ound in this cathedral. Recently, stained )lass was inserted into the other lar)e window on the end o( the choir, which has an exquisite e((ect and depicts the erection o( the copper snake. The windows have been coupled

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JOHAN MEERMAN in such a way that the lines (ade away in an umbra.42 The chapterhouse is almost circular and rests on slender, central pillars. Lon)(ord, Lord Radnors estate, is located just outside o( Salisbury and displays an ancient trian)ular buildin) in which several rooms are decorated and (urnished accordin) to the new (ashion. The books are kept in a circular chamber. “n the windows o( the chapel the twelve articles o( the ;hristian (aith are relatively well-presented with their respective (i)ures. However, this house is worth a visit primarily because o( its (ine collection o( paintin)s numberin) many paintin)s by the (inest Italian masters, only two pieces by ;laude de Lorraine surpass those. These are a sunrise and a sunset, the (irst depictin) the arrival o( Aeneas ships in Italy and the second depictin) one over several Roman ruins. “ne cannot help but admire the sky in these paintin)s because the painter has captured it so well. A bit (arther away on the other side o( the same city lies Wilton House, owned by the Earl o( ”embroke. The architecture o( this house is old but not unpleasant, and the (urnishin)s are not very modern but still contain beauty and taste. Still, both disappear (rom memory compared to the un(or)ettable collection o( the antique statues, busts, bas relie(s, pillars, altars, and exquisite paintin)s displayed there. I( one so desires, it is possible to purchase a )uidebook to the (i(teen or sixteen halls containin) the collection upon

42 The fully shaded inner region of a shadow cast by an opaque object (OED).

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ENGLAND: PART TWO entrance. With this concise but very precise book in hand, one will need approximately three hours to view every piece only in passin). There probably is no private person in Europe that has such a treasure o( beauti(ul old statues, some o( which are superb. All o( Richelieu and ‘azarins possessions as well as a part o( the collection o( the Earls o( Arundel can be (ound here. Some years a)o, a work published in Quarto will allow one to become more acquainted with Wilton House, o( which I just spoke, than the )uidebook does. I shall present the title here as it lays out the names o( several principal pieces A description o( the antiquities and curiosities in Wilton-House, illustrated with 25 en)ravin)s o( the (ollowin) capital statues, bustos and relievos Aesculapius, ‘elea)er, ’ero, ;urtius, Saturn, Fana, Hercules and Aeole, Hercules, ‘arcus Antonius, Apollo, Faunus, ;upid, Aventinus, Apollonius, Semiramis, ‘etellus, :acchus, ”yrrhus, ‘arcus :rutus, Julius ;aesar, Diana, Lucan, ;assandra, Alcibiades, ”rusias. In this work are introduced the anecdotes and remarks o( Thomas Earl o( ”embroke, who collected these antiques, now (irst published (rom his Lordships ‘SS. by James Kennedy. :esides the (inest Greek and Roman statues, one can also (ind the bi))est table tops with all kinds o( (orei)n and rare marble and several E)yptian and ”hry)ian statues amon)st those is Sella ;urulis. Despite its enormous size, the house is still too small (or such a collection, resultin) in the placement o( antiques, althou)h o( lesser quality, even in (ront o( the house and in several )arden houses. The (amily paintin) by Van Dyck surpasses all the other paintin)s as it occupies almost an entire wall and is skil(ully executed. “ne should not suddenly )ive up on Wilton

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House in hope o( avoidin) that unpleasant experience o( a suspicion that is evoked in the human soul by too lon) a series o( beauti(ul pieces. With re)ards to architecture, one can see several remarkable art(ul buildin)s in the courtyard. In (ront o( the house, there is a ”alladian brid)e, , a )rotto, and similar thin)s. The )ardens o( Wilton House are decorated with a lar)e triumphal arch with an old-(ashioned statue o( a horse on top o( it. In the vicinity o( Salisbury, there are the honourable ruins o( Stonehen)e as a remainder o( the earliest architecture. ‘any have speculated that these are actually the ruins o( a druid temple and it is a topic that still draws a lot o( attention. The ruins have been elaborately described and depicted. The part that is still visible clearly indicates how it used to look it is elevated in the middle o( an immense plain. At a distance o( around (orty ells (rom the site, there is a circular, )rassy bank. The outer row o( stones o( the temple also (orm a circle. The stones are oblon) blocks o( about twelve (eet hi)h, (our (eet wide, and two (eet thick they stand upri)ht and approximately (our (eet apart (rom one another. “n top o( these standin) blocks, a stone rests across, one hal( on one pillar and the other hal( on top o( another one. All these blocks are made (rom a sin)le piece and must have been cut very evenly. “nce one has walked throu)h these )ates one will (ind a second circle it is smaller, consists o( shorter stones, and as (ar as I can tell, used to be completely circular and covered in the same manner as the (irst circle. However, these observations are not as easily deducted (rom the remains in comparison to the outer circle o( stones. The third row, which

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ENGLAND: PART TWO is by (ar the most beauti(ul, used to be principally octa)onal. It is open towards the side o( the main entrance, which can be noticed (rom an openin) in the outer bank and a couple o( stones that are placed next to each other. “n the opposite side, this row is o( stones is closed. The blocks are even lar)er and hi)her than those o( the outer circle, and the cross-block completely covers two standin) pillars and thereby alternately covers and uncovers the passa)e. The (ourth most inner row stands in relation to the third like the second corresponds to the (irst and there(ore has a similar octa)onal shape. There appears to be a lar)e and (lat altar at the end o( the oval, which is the inclined shape o( the octa)onal Stonehen)e. Without doubt, the temple was not covered on top. It is speculated that some o( the stones could have only been moved by 120 oxen and it is certain that these stones did not come (rom anywhere nearer than ‘arlborou)h, sixteen miles (rom the temple. “( each row, there are only a couple o( stones le(t on which the cross-block remains on top and in per(ect condition, whereas others have (allen over, been towed away, or have been buried by time. Some blocks are still completely smooth and some have been a((ected by oxidation. The lar)e altar stone is still visible. Ri)ht next to it people have (ound another altar stone, which has (allen in such a peculiar way that it appears to be balancin) and moveable with little e((ort. However, the stren)th o( all men would be insu((icient to even shi(t it an inch in reality. In almost the entire area surroundin) Stonehen)e there are raised tur( mounds, where human skeletons or bones o( sacri(icial animals can be (ound.

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Several o( these earth mounds have a round bank surroundin) them. Eastbury ”ark, Lord Temples estate, is not (ar (rom :land(ord and can boast about a beauti(ul buildin) with a peristyle o( six Dorian columns in (ront o( it. Its rooms and halls are (urnished beauti(ully and taste(ully, althou)h sli)htly old-(ashioned. The paintin)s do not merit much admiration. Wardour ;astle, althou)h not yet entirely (inished, is a charmin) square castle with two protrudin) semicircular win)s. It is a place that unites both beauty and taste inside, one can (ind a lot o( oriental alabaster, precious marble, and some (ine paintin)s. The Roman ;atholic chapel is served by three chaplains and one would not expect to (ind a richer and more splendid altar in any court. The staircase rests on ;orinthian columns under a dome and can be accessed (rom two sides the entire structure is a masterpiece o( ele)ant architecture. “ne o( the most beauti(ul castles in En)land is located on Fonthill and is built out o( a nice whitish stone that is mined (rom local quarries. The corps de lo)is and the peristyle that is supported by several columns in the castles (acade are connected to the two win)s by a semicircular Ionian colonnade. Althou)h there are some )ood paintin)s inside, the taste o( the interior does not correspond with its exterior. ‘r Hoares house, Stourhead, excels with re)ards to its paintin)s and it is also well-(urnished in other re)ards. They did not han) the paintin)s in the usual (ashion in Stourhead instead, the paintin)s han) on hin)es like doors, which allows the viewer to turn them to the li)ht. Rembrandts Elijah

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Raisin) the Widows Son can be (ound here amon)st many other superb pieces. I( I recall correctly, a print o( this paintin) has been made available recently, alon) with a (ew by ;arlo Dolci one o( ‘a)dalen and another o( the dau)hter o( Herodias with the head o( John the :aptist. An entire hall is (illed with reproductions based on works by Guido o( Arezzo. I have already brie(ly mentioned the estates buildin)s. In order to reach the ma)ni(icent pantheon, one has to climb several stairs. “ne enters a vestibule supported by several columns be(ore one reaches the temple itsel(. The main statue here is a Hercules, created by Rysbrack, who worked on it (or twelve years. The moment the sculptor chose to portray is ri)ht a(ter Hercules has stolen the apples. :esides this masterpiece, one can admire a Flora, which owes its presence to the same artists chisel. In addition, there are several statues by ;heere, a London master, which were produced exclusively (or this pantheon. ‘oreover, a statue o( Livia Au)usta, an antique, can also be (ound there. At ‘r ”arkers estate, not (ar (rom ”lymouth, one can see a lar)e buildin), which appears simple (rom the outside, but is extremely taste(ully decorated and (urnished inside the ceilin)s, the lar)e hall, and the library are especially ele)ant. While many (ine paintin)s are bein) kept here, includin) some pieces by ‘rs An)elica Kau((mann, only a (ew amon)st them are by the old masters. Exeter ;athedral is an elon)ated buildin) (ull o( monuments. At the top o( the bishops throne, one can admire Gothic cra(tsmanship. The pipes o( the or)an are thicker than

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JOHAN MEERMAN any I have ever seen. The last two pipes stand completely separate (rom the or)an. The niches o( Wells ;athedrals exterior walls display li(e-sized statues o( nearly every person who appears in the “ld Testament. Several o( the lower statues are missin) or are headless due to iconoclasm. The interior o( this buildin) is spacious and neat every pillar surroundin) the cross at the centre is linked to the other by means o( a curved stone cross. In )eneral, the pillars o( this cathedral have been placed in a certain way so that one has a wonder(ul view o( the third section (rom the second section. All around, there are stained )lass windows depictin) various virtues, and there are also many monuments o( bishops. The chapter house rests on one pillar. The :ishops palace resembles a (ortress with moats and ramparts, rather than a buildin) that is admired (or its architecture. Approximately ten miles (rom :ath, one can visit the (irst class collection o( paintin)s owned by ‘r ‘ethuen at ;orsham ;ourt. Here, one can (ind pieces that are worth a (ortune a lar)e paintin) o( The ‘eetin) o( David and Abi)ail by Rubens a Tobias and the An)el painted by ‘ichelan)elo da ;arava))io and a lar)e piece by ;arlo Dolci titled ;hrist in the House o( Simon the ”harisee. The person who commissioned the paintin) had himsel( depicted in the paintin) as an attendant behind a table. Lastly, I will address a ma)ni(icent piece by van Dyck The ‘assacre o( the Innocents. The expressions on the (aces o( the mothers are sublime, as they re)ard the other characters.

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With re)ards to the architecture, the city o( :ath has the most beauti(ul buildin)s. Althou)h I should now say that a description o( the city is inevitable, I will mention only in passin) a buildin) that stands on its own, which is the newly (ounded city hall. This buildin) has a nice (acade with columns, and a pleasant hall inside. There are also the lar)e Assembly Rooms, which is divided into three or (our beauti(ul halls decorated in various styles. :ristol can only boast about a small number o( (ine buildin)s, one o( which is the stock exchan)e buildin). St ‘ary Redcli(( ;hurch is considered a lar)e, li)ht Gothic church (rom inside, (illed with monuments. The altar displays a triptych the sealin) o( ;hrists tomb, his resurrection, and his ascension. The theatre hall in this city is a small, yet charmin) semicircular buildin) with Doric columns decorated in white and )old. “n Queen Square there is a bronze equestrian statue o( William III. The exquisite remnants o( Gothic architecture are displayed not (ar (rom ;hepstow at Tintern Abbey, which was (ounded in 1131. The buildin) was destroyed durin) the Re(ormation so that only the walls and one row o( pillars remain intact. There was never more than a sin)le row o( pillars in every arm o( the cross and, (rom a(ar, the central pillar appears to be so thin that one could enclose it with ones hands. The window ri)ht above the entrance merits admiration. The entire buildin) is not extraordinarily bi). Worcester ;athedral is less remarkable (or its architecture than the monuments it exhibits. :ecause I can only re(er to these monuments (rom an artistic point o( view, I mention

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JOHAN MEERMAN only in passin) the tomb o( Kin) John and that o( the ;ountess o( Salisbury, who lost her )arter and thus provided a certain renowned order with the opportunity to be (ounded. Far more noticeable is the memorial to :ishop John Hou)h, who served under James II, which was manu(actured by Roubiliac. The bishop lies prayin) with his tabard reachin) his knees. Faith supports him with the le(t hand and several events o( his li(e are depicted en relie( on medallions below the statue. The drapery o( both main (i)ures and the hands o( the bishop are exquisitely cra(ted. For the monument to Sir Thomas Street, Joseph Wilton did not sculpt the man himsel(, but an an)el that holds the sta(( o( (reedom in one hand and hides the co((in under some (abric with the other hand. In :irmin)ham, the admirers o( architecture are drawn towards the spacious new church, in addition to several other public buildin)s. :oth the exterior and interior o( the church are decorated in )ood (ashion and its beauti(ul tower is more dome-like than apex-shaped. Additionally, the interior o( an octa)onal chapel, the (acade o( the recently constructed theatre with Ionic columns, and the busts o( Shakespeare and Garrick in between these are worth bein) admired. Lich(ield ;athedral is extremely old and was almost destroyed by ;romwells people. However, with heavy expenses the cathedral was nearly completely restored. Its exterior has a )enteel appearance the middle one o( the three si)ni(icantly pointy towers has a slender, hi)h cone and is newer than the others. A lar)e e((i)y in the choir keeps the memory o( :ishop John Hacket alive, durin) whose li(e the restoration o( the chapel took place.

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‘anchester o((ers so little (or the arts that i( it were to be taken into consideration, I could mention it alon)side the description o( the city. In contrast to ‘anchester, there is more than one buildin) in Liverpool which deserves to be visited. The stock exchan)e is extraordinarily beauti(ul and has (acades on two sides. There is a ;orinthian colonnade above the entrance and inside there is a square courtyard with a circular )allery, which is supported by a double row o( Doric columns. The chambers behind the colonnade are meant (or municipal and country-oriented occasions as well as (or balls and assemblies. The construction and decoration o( these rooms deserve much praise. A dome covers the top o( this buildin), which should be ascended (or its view. St ”auls ;hurch, built on a lar)e square in the middle o( the city, is o( a sublime architecture as well. The exterior is square and it can be accessed via a set o( stairs. The lar)e dome at its centre is supported by pillars and is particularly admired. All o( the benches are placed underneath the dome, yet the )alleries run on the outer side o( the pillars. The churches o( St ”eter and St Geor)e, to)ether with the ;ustoms House, claim the approval o( architects. Almost square and painted white and blue, the theatre hall is both ele)ant and pleasant (rom inside. Small Doric columns support the lo)es. Alon)side the proscenium one can see three lar)e ;orinthian columns on both sides o( the sta)e. With the exception o( a part o( the wall and an entrance, Alnwick ;astle in ’orthumberland was rebuilt entirely by the last duke o( the same name. However, it was built in the same way as the old buildin), which was lar)e and massive but o( an

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JOHAN MEERMAN irre)ular nature. A hi)h, branched wall surrounds the buildin) at a speci(ic distance. “n these walls, as well as on top o( the castle, there are statues o( armed men and other (i)ures, which are lar)er than li(e-sized and have a peculiar e((ect. Some o( these were le(t over (rom the old castle, while others in a similar style and stone were added by the Duke. The interior is decorated in a Gothic style and it is (urnished with the )reatest luxury and taste as (ar as this style o( architecture allows. The main stairs are majestic and the most principal quarters and halls are all interlinked and exceptionally beauti(ul. Almost all o( the mantelpieces are made out o( the same stone as that out o( which the castle has been built. A lon) and well-accommodated library is connected to the chapel, which has been completed quite recently and displays a re)al ma)ni(icence. The window above the entrance as well as two others, are painted )race(ully and made to come alive by the artist. :elow the (irst mentioned window there is a lar)e marble sarcopha)us with beauti(ul bas-relie(s and an inscription made by the duke in honour o( his wi(e who passed away a year or two be(ore he did. The ceilin), walls, (loors, and the lectern behind which the cler)yman )ives sermons are all equally beauti(ul. The (ounder could not resist to display his )enealo)y here as well as in his other country houses. Althou)h displayin) ones pedi)ree can be a beauti(ul decoration in a room, it is, however, misplaced here, where every distinction o( birth disappears. The stables, which are (itted to hold twenty horses, are also new, and o( the same (ashion as the entire house the hay racks and the bars that separate the stables are

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ENGLAND: PART TWO all Gothic. In the city itsel(, they have imitated some o( the Gothic buildin) style in several buildin)s. In ’ewcastle upon Tyne, the new lar)e brid)e over the river has a )ood desi)n. The bank, also a modern construction, is situated at one end o( the river. “ne can also (ind a remainder o( Roman architecture, since a part o( Hadrians Wall ran throu)h the city. “ne o( the )ates is still visible, called ”andon Gate, and is o( the most solid architecture. The stone is the same that was later used to construct the walls and the castle o( this town. “ne will also (ind ruins in Tynemouth, but these are dated to more recent times. The remains o( an abbey, which was located in the middle o( a kind o( (ortress, still show evidence o( its (ormer splendour. The hi)h back wall shows that the abbey was built in a li)ht Gothic style. In Durham, the cler)y have recently built a beauti(ul new brid)e with three arches, ”rebends :rid)e, which is in )ood taste. The cathedral is also worth a comment it is less a work o( art than it is a work o( its time. It is a heavy and lon) colossus o( An)lo-Saxon architecture in the shape o( a cross, with only one horizontal bar instead o( two in the usual place and another shorter bar at the top like the horizontal bar o( a T. The chapter house is vast and the portals are built in the Gothic style. The exterior o( the whole cathedral, includin) the towers, is currently bein) covered in square stones and this work will be (inished in 21 years. The York ‘inster, the cathedral o( York, is o( a completely di((erent nature it is one o( the lar)est, li)htest, most majestic, and most beauti(ul Gothic buildin)s o( its kind, and the (irst in En)land. ‘oreover, it is (illed with old and new

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JOHAN MEERMAN monuments. The stained )lass windows have a )reat e((ect (rom a(ar and thus add their share to the solemnity o( the buildin). However, upon closer inspection one is able to see that everythin) is too closely pieced to)ether. There is a crypt beneath the choir, and the chapter house, too, is a testament to architectural excellence. The western (acade o( this cathedral is ma)ni(icent. Within the walls of the York Castle, there are two new buildings standing in the most agreeable order respective to each other. The first is a small prison, which is an addition to the one located at the far end. It has Ionic columns and is decorated with vases on top of the roof, which subverts the proverb Jamais belle prison.43 The second building is a regional courthouse of the same design, but it is longer and has two domes at each end supported by Corinthian columns inside. Civil and criminal hearings take place in these domes, which are connected by a hall. The jury has its offices at the back of this building. The embroidery of Miss Morres rightly deserves to be mentioned with regards to the arts. This elderly lady resides in York in the company of several nuns, and has spent almost her whole life imitating the paintings of the best masters with the needle. The embroidery is produced with yarn and long stitches, and from up close one can mistake it for excellent brushstrokes. The size always corresponds to that of the original, and the embroidery is so skilfully completed that the

43 The En)lish translation reads prisons are never beauti(ul. However, this is not a common French proverb.

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ENGLAND: PART TWO most considerable sums were offered in vain for some of these pieces. Miss Morres exhibits only part of her collection at her house, while the considerably bigger and better pieces are kept at the estate of her brother. Castle Howard, the country estate of the Earl of Carlisle and one of the most magnificent estates of the kingdom, is located only a few miles from York. Even the guest house, where one can stay the night, has a striking effect on the visitor; there is a pyramid located above a gateway, which spans the driveway and connects the two wings of the building. Just opposite from here and in the middle of two crossing royal avenues, a very high and fine obelisk was erected by the grandfather of the current earl, who also commissioned the entire work. The pedestal of the obelisk has an inscription in honour of the great Marlborough on one side, and on the other side there is another inscription in commemoration of the gardens that surround the obelisk. The building itself is an overwhelming colossus considering all its wings and annexes. The architecture is exquisite but overly decorative, and it is a shame that neither the front nor the back facades are regular. The difference is clearly visible at the front. The grand vestibule has four arches, each with its own stairway, a very high ceiling, frescoes, and replicas of antiques. However, the whole room is once again excessively ornate and too colourful. Generally, it is clear that Castle Howard was built in the first half of this century and not in the second. The rooms on the ground floor, which have no particular order to them, also indicate this in various places; nevertheless, they deserve the

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JOHAN MEERMAN greatest comment of the artist because of their decorations. There are table tops made of Egyptian marble, Bianco e Nero, mosaic, jasper, agate and the like; columns made of porphyry with antique busts made of Lydian stone, bronze, and marble, some of which are outstanding; various great paintings by Guercino, Guido, Titian, Rubens, Rembrandt, and others are united in this building in abundance. At the end of this row of rooms, the current earl has begun to build a completely new wing but was unable to complete it. Outside as well as inside, insofar it is already finished, the best taste is demonstrated. Coming from a fine square room, one reaches a very long gallery that is divided by arches into three parts, of which the middle part contains a dome. Forming a right angle with the other end of this gallery, there is again a large dining hall that has three rows of four Corinthian columns at each end of the room. Two of the columns are joined with the wall and the other two are placed a bit further towards the middle of the room. As of now, the whole wing has no furniture other than some antique busts, sarcophagi, urns, some Roman household goods, several bas- reliefs, and a number of old portraits. The colossal bust of a Jupiter Pluvius stands out amongst all the others in this estate. In the garden there is a temple with four antiques and a mosaic floor, as well as an obelisk, and a column in between some statues and ensembles. In addition to this, the mausoleum, which I have mentioned briefly, is especially remarkable. It was erected by the grandfather of the current earl, and it is, so to say, one of a kind. This perfectly circular building, closed off with a dome, is located on an elevation

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ENGLAND: PART TWO next to a small forest. First, one walks through the outer gate and then ascends to the foundation of the temple, which is surrounded by a wall. Afterwards, an iron gate opens up the same floor of the lower part of the colossus, where the vaults intended for the burial of the Carlisle family are located. The corpses, however, are not lowered into the ground; instead, the coffins are slid into 63 holes encircling the walls, as well as four protruding vaults. These holes are bricked up and then a stone with the name, age, and year of death of the deceased is placed in front of the grave. Only the first six holes on the right side of the door were filled when I visited. Furthermore, the vault receives light through the lattice in the front door and through a number of small windows. However, all the splendour is reserved for the upper part of the temple. A double staircase first leads up to a gallery, which encircles the exterior and is supported by twenty Doric columns with a diameter of four feet. Inside is the chapel, which is not used for any purpose other than funerals. Eight Corinthian columns are placed around the chapel as decoration. The floor is marble encased in stucco. From the ground to the highest point of the dome, the chapel is 63 feet high and 32 feet wide. The construction is estimated to have cost between 20,000 and 30,000 pounds sterling. The stone was obtained from the estate itself. The manor of Mr Donkam near Thirsk is of a fine architectural style. When I saw it thirteen years ago, only one great wing was connected by a colonnade to one side of the corps de logis. All of the rooms are spacious and generally well-furnished. Some rooms are decorated with paintings,

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JOHAN MEERMAN amongst which there is an exquisite Paulus, whose painter I could not discover. An elongated hall in this building has two rows of pillars with some rather good marble copies of antiques along the walls. A square room is likewise surrounded by a colonnade but the wooden statues between these pillars are inferior to those I mentioned before. The town of Ripon exhibits a beautiful obelisk on its market square, which was recently erected by Mr Aislabie, who had been part of the Parliament for almost half a century because of this square. After its erection, the magistrate placed an inscription on the pedestal to commemorate Mr Aislabie. The Ripon Cathedral or Minster is built in a beautiful and stately Gothic style. In particular, the wide nave of the church is remarkable. The woodcarvings of the vestibule leading up to the choir also deserve to be admired. Here, one finds several older and newer monuments. Located nearby, Mr Weddells ’ewby Hall, as well as Mr Lascelless Harewood House, closer to Leeds, can pride themselves upon country houses of which the splendour and taste is rivalled only by few. The former estate does not distinguish itself so much by its facade, which is remarkable because of its bricks, a curiosity of the British castles, than it does by the interior arrangements and decorations. The architect, Robert Adam, was the supervisor while the owner accumulated the majority of decorations, especially the marble statues, during his travels through Italy. After walking through a lovely vestibule and along a grand staircase flaunting Etruscan vases of the foremost excellence, one reaches the gallery, which is divided into three parts. The

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ENGLAND: PART TWO middle part has a dome through which daylight shines from above, and which connects to the two other semicircular sections by arches. The decorations are most elegant and consist of plasterwork in two colours. Most of the statues, busts, bas- reliefs, and sarcophagi that can be found here are antique, but only a few are by the greatest modern masters. A Venus with the same posture as the Medici Venus surpasses everything else, although her head has been detached and then reattached. One would hardly believe one was looking at marble, since the delicate and skilful sculpting as well as the moelleuse make the stone seem like flesh. I was ensured that the statue cost a sum of 6,000 pounds sterling. There is also a beautiful Brutus, of which the head in particular is excellently made; a bust of Minerva, which is made of partly yellow and partly white marble a lar)e urn with the inscription D. ‘. S. Q. MINUCIUS FELIX44; an exquisite sarcophagus with a Bacchanal in bas-relief; a beautiful bust of Bacchus, and much more. The dining hall, without being magnificent, unites all that elegance can imagine as appealing. The decorations on the walls and ceiling consist of a few muted colours on plasterwork with festoons and other wooden embellishments. In a charming small room next to the dining hall the colour purple prevails with the most fortunate effect. The room has a ceiling that is too colourful but the walls and chairs are fitted with the most beautiful Gobelins. The

44 Dis ‘anibus Sacrum Quintus ‘inucius Felix translates to To the memory of Quintus Minucius Felix.

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JOHAN MEERMAN remaining rooms are designed in a more ordinary style, but one can still find good paintings there together with books, marble tables, mantelpieces, mosaics, and the like. Like Newby Hall, Harewood House has also been completed recently. Already the outmost gate and the two porters lod)es display the most deli)ht(ul architecture. The house itself is regal; it has a corps de logis with a peristyle with six columns and two wings, which are connected to the middle part by galleries. There is no particular order to the rooms and although one finds neither statues nor paintings, there is nevertheless so much magnificence and exceptional taste in the decorations and furniture, which can only be seen united in such a manner in a few buildings in Europe. However, some features deny this sense of taste in the most unexpected and most incomprehensible manner. Then again, the great hall is glorious in every aspect. At Harewood House, the French style of furnishing has inspired some aspects and is happily married to the English style. Mirrors of stupendous height and width can be found here. Everything, even the stables, is of interest to an architecture enthusiast. Wentworth House and Wentworth Castle are located close to Sheffield. The latter, belonging to the Earl of Strafford, stands out mostly because of its facade, stairs, and gallery, and contains only a few paintings and sculptures. On top of the castle, at its centre, there is a statue of the former Earl of Strafford. However, Wentworth House, built by the late Marquess of Rockingham, deserves the utmost attention and admiration, even though the interior was not yet finished, and it is now the property of his nephew Lord Fitzwilliam. The

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ENGLAND: PART TWO facade of the house is one of the proudest and most beautiful to be seen. It features another corps de logis with two wings, and the front is adorned with a high peristyle with six exquisite columns. The vestibule is of a delightful style. It forms a large square with pillars of a yellow composition close to the wall, which support a narrow gallery. The niches in between are blue inside and each of them contains a superb marble statue, which is a replica of an antique. In the centre, there is a large antique statue. Between the niches and the pillars, the stucco is left white. Likewise, the floor of the next room is made of the most beautiful imitation marble in different colours. Various antique and modern statues, busts, and bas-reliefs, all similarly well made, are accumulated here. A subsequent large room, which is still completely in the rough, contains a collection of paintings and some sculptures. The other side of the vestibule opens up to a number of grand furnished rooms, decorated with various good paintings. Amongst these is the painting of a life-sized horse, made in London by a man called Stubbs, and it surpasses every excellent visual representation of animals. Chairs, mirrors, tables, mantelpieces: everything matches and is generally bolder in style than one usually sees in England today. Many of these pieces also come from Italy. Towards the back of the building, there are numerous rooms, including a very long gallery and a well-accommodated library. The stables have an extraordinarily beautiful facade for a building of its kind. In Yorkshire, the towns of Kingston upon Hull and Beverley also exhibit some remarkable works of art. The

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JOHAN MEERMAN former town has a gilded equestrian statue of William III. The latter has a church dedicated to Mary, which is notable because of its great architecture and its interior elegance, which is superior to that of several cathedrals. It could not be decorated in greater taste. On both sides of the pulpit there are brown wooden loges supported by pillars. The organ is very beautiful. An incomprehensible amount of work was put into the interior work of the choir, which is a shame because when one actually sees it, it is not very impressive. The altar, on the other hand, is magnificent and behind it, as I remember it, there is a podium that rests upon columns and which has a splendid effect. The pillars of the whole building are remarkably thin. The castle in Nottingham should also be visited, as it is a remainder of Inigo Joness architecture. “verall, this castle is a beautiful colossus and the decorations on the top windows are fresh and of a superb taste. In the county of the same name, the estate of the Duke of Norfolk, Worksop Manor, deserves to be admired by the art enthusiast. The facade is very broad and of utmost splendour, but when I visited it on my last journey it was still unfinished. The most remarkable feature inside is the magnificent staircase by Le Brun in the style of de Wit, which is adorned with paintings that depict the arts and sciences. It is almost impossible to distinguish them from bas-reliefs. The rooms are well-furnished and several Gobelins and paintings can be found in them. In Derby, one can see a beautiful cathedral with much local marble inside. Behind the cathedral, there is

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ENGLAND: PART TWO a small courtyard for old women, which contains pillars. It is next to a number of other good public buildings. Kedleston Hall, Chatsworth House, and Okeover Hall are all located in Derbyshire and contribute remarkable works to the arts. The first estate belongs to Lord Scarsdale. One enters the park through a front gate. The house was previously located in front of a village and now, after it is has been relocated by its owner, has a view of a body of water over which a well-built bridge spans. A corps de logis with a high peristyle with six Corinthian columns and two wings of 21 rooms each, connected to the house by a semicircular colonnade make up the beautiful facade of this house. It is said that Lord Scarsdale spent around two million Dutch guilders for the construction and furnishing of the building, which was done under the supervision of Adam. The front door is made of mahogany, and has remarkable windows of the best glass. The high vestibule is unrivalled in England. It rests upon sixteen pillars of yellow Derbyshire alabaster; the four that are located above the front door are not free- standing like the others but emerge from the wall. The ceiling and the walls are made of stucco, while the panels of the door are papier-mâché painted with figures. The most charming statues of an Apollo and Meleager can be found here. Following the vestibule is a big, round, and not yet finished parlour with some stone statues in niches. The rooms are all furnished according to good taste and are provided with first class paintings. No expenses were spared on the local marble and other products of the region. Next to the staircase, there is a colossal piece depicting Mary and Child, painted by Carlo

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Maratti. The back of the building does not correspond with the beauty of the facade. The castle of the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth is a bold and orderly square building, and its beautiful, yet not completely modern interior is magnificently decorated and arranged in a great manner. Special attention should be paid to the vestibule and stairs, which are completely painted with life-sized historical pieces, as well as the cedar wood chapel, of which the walls are likewise covered with paintwork. The rest of the castle consists of many large rooms. They are currently occupied with furnishing a concert hall according to the latest fashion. There is little to see at Okeover Hall. However, what can be seen is worth thousands. At any rate, this house contains a few pieces by Rubens and Teniers, as well as one piece by Raphael, for which the king of France has offered 3,000 pounds. The piece depicting a holy family is very renowned, in particular because the folds on a cushion, caused by the child Jesus pressing down on it with one foot, are rendered impeccably by the artist. Coventry has a very tall, old cathedral with one high, pointed tower. Two similar cone- shaped spires can be found on other churches in this city; their style has a peculiar effect from far away. I already mentioned that the cathedral in Lichfield, which forms a diocese with Coventry, is also crowned with such a spire. Otherwise, these spires are rarely found in England. There is also a fine prison next to the cathedral of which I just spoke. The church in Warwick is full of memorials, which are of importance to the kingdom because of their history and

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ENGLAND: PART TWO antiquity, rather than because of their sculptural excellence. Amongst others, the rich Chapel of St Mary de Castro in Leicester has similar memorials. The regional courthouse exhibits a fine front with Corinthian columns and inside there is a hall behind which there are two pavilions for civil and criminal hearings. The prison is situated next to this building, which has thick Doric columns in the front wall and a peculiar door with a bas-relief of chains above it, which are in stark contrast with the elegant facade of the courthouse, as one intended. The Earl of Warwicks castle is located at one end o( this city and is one of the oldest in England. It is said that Julius Caesar built one of its towers. The entire building is vast and surrounded by high, thick walls. In the centre of the inner courtyard, there is a very beautiful replica of an antique vase, of which the original, if I am not mistaken, has its home in Naples. In the part of the castle inhabited by the earl, one is able to see a row of very fine quarters that lead to a large hall. The arrangement of the furniture and decorations displays as much taste as the nature of such a building allows, and the Gothic style integrates the modern style most sensibly. Here, one finds a number of good paintings, especially portraits, and beautiful antique, Etruscan vases, as well as mantelpieces and table tops of fine and precious marble. In one room there is a window painted by Jervis depicting the view of the interior of a church in a finer way than one can possibly imagine of a painting on glass. Lord Shrewsburys Heythrop ”ark has a castle that has a beautiful entrance and magnificent facades at the front and

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JOHAN MEERMAN back of the building. Inside, the library and the hall deserve a remark. Furthermore, several paintings, mantelpieces, table tops of Egyptian or other marble, and similar opulence can be found here. Although Ditchley, which belongs to the Earl of Lichfield, also displays some decorations of the same style, it is mainly famous for having a fine collection of paintings. The bridge and column at Blenheim have already been mentioned earlier, thus I will now only focus on the building, which is a very vast and most magnificent palace with protruding colonnades. However, because of its solidity and abundant embellishments, it does not have a pleasing effect. On one side of the facade, there is the bust of Louis XIV, which was taken from the gates of Tournai; on the other side, there is a bust of the great Marlborough himself. Inside, the beautifully painted ceiling in the vast vestibule is very striking. It is followed by another beautiful hall, which is connected to the rooms that are shown to the public on both sides. The furniture here is valuable but not of the superb elegance present in other manors. One can admire a wonderful collection of paintings, amongst which there are many of Rubenss best pieces, some by van Dyck, as well as the works of various prominent Italian masters. Other rooms are decorated with tapestries portraying the deeds of General John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, which the nation presented to the victor of the Battle of Blenheim in addition to the house. Occupying the complete width of the building, the library has galleries that rest upon marble pillars. Generally, this hall has a very pleasing design and has a statue of Queen Anne located at its end. Neither the chapel nor the tomb of

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ENGLAND: PART TWO the duke, where he has found his final rest after being laid to rest at Westminster Abbey, are commended for their design. It is a shame that one is not allowed to see the dukes outstanding collection of cut stones at Blenheim without special recommendation, as it is probably incomparable to any other collection in Europe at present. Last year, they began publishing a part of it on slabs engraved by Bartolozzi. However, there are only 50 pieces of this superbly executed work and they are therefore only handed out as gifts. As massive as the palace at Blenheim is, so light, so elegant, so enchantingly beautiful, and not less vast and magnificent is Stowe House, the country house at Stowe. The one palace seems to have been intended for giants, while the other one seems to have been intended for sylphs. Architecture could not produce anything more masterly than the facade of Stowe House that faces the garden; the other facade is much simpler, and has semicircular colonnades on all sides. Walking up a straight flight of stairs from the garden side, one passes through a peristyle supported by six Corinthian columns and decorated with beautiful bas-reliefs on top and on the sides. One then arrives at an oval vestibule that is sufficiently illuminated by a single window in the ceiling. Sixteen stucco columns surround it. The fresco encircling the room portrays a Roman triumph with protruding figures in a style somewhat resembling that of the work on the columns of Trajan and Antony. The design and execution of this piece is magnificent. Between the pillars, one is able to spot niches in the wall, of which some are filled with good antiques. This vestibule hosts as many beautifully

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JOHAN MEERMAN smoothened crystal clocks as there are pillars and, by and large, is one of a kind. The next hall, which leads to the front door, is square, and smaller than the first one, but it is also decorated with several antiques and other kinds of antiquities. The chapel does not live up to the value or taste displayed in the other rooms, although there is an altar piece painted by Rubens, depicting four children. Some of the halls and chambers on the right side of the entrance of the garden are still under construction. The new music hall stands out in particular, at least the parts that are finished. This hall is of unparalleled beauty. The stucco walls have been painted with arabesques from the Loges by Raphael; the panels of the doors are filled with miniatures; the delicate paintwork with wisely spare gilding, the pillars, and the furniture, all are equally beautiful. An Italian, the same person who created the fresco in the back room, is commissioned for every artwork here. As far as possible, all works are prepared on site. On the other side of the vestibule, one walks through a long line of rooms, one of which is to become the main quarters. The room is simple, but demonstrates great taste at the same time, and already displays several magnificent paintings. The gallery has been lined with tapestries. A precious lacquered Chinese cabinet with several horns, shells, and other exotic curiosities can be found at the end of the master bedroom. The Temple of Concord and Victory, an imitation of ‘inervas temple in Athens, is long and square, with a gallery encircling the exterior. It is supported by ten Ionic columns across the length and six across the width. It is the most

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ENGLAND: PART TWO prominent of all the fine buildings of art that can be found in the garden at Stowe House. The Temple of Ancient Virtue has a dome and, if I am not mistaken, is also surrounded outside by a gallery of twelve Ionic columns. One should also direct ones attention to a (ew beauti(ul triumphal arches, the rotunda, a few obelisks, columns, pyramids, one Gothic temple and another, and a covered bridge in the style of Palladio. Oxford possibly unites more beautiful public buildings in a small space than any known place in Europe of the same size. One cannot help but be reminded of the ancient capital of Greece, where people lived in simple dwellings, while all the splendour of architecture and sculpture was saved for the temples and gymnasia. The Radcliffe Library, which I have already mentioned, is the most beautiful colossus in this city from outside. The printing house has a fine facade. The theatre is less pleasing to the eye, since they endeavoured to imitate the architecture of old theatres to some extent. The schools are old-fashioned and the paintings that are kept in the upper gallery are not very significant. Placed in the unused auditoriums, the Marmora Oxoniensia and the Pomfret statues, however, deserve more attention. The first consists mostly of Greek inscriptions, a part of which has been published in folio. One also finds a beautiful, circular altar and some other altars. There are a few excellent statues amongst the collection. The one of Cicero has been placed there recently and is about seven feet high. There is also a remarkable Hymen, leaning on his arm. In addition, there is a Hercules ripping apart a lion, a colossal head of Apollo, a

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Venus de Medici, a large 24.5 feet long column from the temple at Delphi, complete with capital and base in the Corinthian style; however, it is sawn in half. One also finds a few altars, bas-reliefs, and sarcophagi. The chapel of New College is believed to be the most beautiful in Oxford. Besides its size and old stained glass windows on both sides, it is mostly remarkable for its recently installed stained glass window, which was executed by Jervis according to the drawing of Sir Joshua Reynolds. It depicts the worship by the shepherds and, on its two side panels, the representation of the heavenly virtues standing next to one another. Both artists who have contributed to this masterpiece have included their portraits amongst the bystanders in the paintings, according to the fashion of the last century. The college paid 2,200 pounds sterling for this window. Trinity College has a large dining hall and a good modern chapel with artistic woodcarvings in lime and cedar wood. In Christ Church College, one large courtyard leads to another. One is laid out in the style from the sixteenth century, while the other, situated next to the corner of the first, is laid out in a more contemporary style, although it is a bit too lavish. The most remarkable feature of the chapel here is a number of beautiful stained glass windows, which show St ”eters liberation (rom prison. In these stained )lass windows, one can rightfully admire the stairs and the posture of the guards. Next is the dining hall, which bears an authentic Gothic style and was commissioned by Cardinal Wolsey along with the rest of the college. The wing belongs to the new part

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ENGLAND: PART TWO of the building. The library can be found in a charming hall upstairs. The collection of paintings is held downstairs in two rooms, and contains pieces of the greatest masters. There are two or three beautiful modern busts in the front hall, amongst them one of Locke and one of the current Lord Primate of Ireland. At All Souls College, one can visit the library and the chapel. I have already spoken of the former. In the middle of that beautiful hall, there is a solid statue of Colonel Codrington, the founder of the library, made by Cheere. In the chapel, the altarpiece portrayin) ;hrists appearance to Mary Magdalene was created by Anton Raphael Mengs. Amongst the hundreds of thousands of paintings I have seen, I have never found one that immediately speaks to the heart and emotions as this one, despite the remarks one may make about its execution. Kneeling down to embrace her Lord, one can see the astonishment, the tenderness, the love, and the overwhelmin) joy that is re(lected in ‘arys expression. She is not able utter anything except for that one word, Rabbouni.45 At the same time, her eyes have become the source o( the most beauti(ul tears. ;hrists posture prevents her from touching him, and his face shows the prominence and calmness that is part of his new position. ‘a)dalen ;olle)e is an old buildin), but it has a beauti(ul rear (acade. The altarpiece o( the chapel, said to be by Guido, depicts ;hrist carryin) his cross. Althou)h it is a (ine paintin),

45 Also written as rabboni and translates to master or teacher. It is used in reference to Christ ("Rhabbouni").

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JOHAN MEERMAN it does not possess the warmth that ‘a)dalene exudes. The Queens ;olle)e is mainly distin)uished because o( its beauti(ul exterior. In the chapel, however, one can (ind several stained )lass windows. I have already mentioned the library o( St Johns ;olle)e. Althou)h the architecture o( the entire buildin), and especially the courtyard, is built in the old style, it should not be dismissed. Apart (rom the colle)es, the observatory in “x(ord is also worth viewin), at least (rom outside, as I did not mana)e to see it (rom inside. The )round (loor is very spacious, the second (loor less so, and the third (loor is a tower. The whole buildin) is supported by pillars and accordin) to marvellous desi)n. The hospital next to it is likewise a (ine colossus. There is, however, much criticism with re)ards to the brid)e at the end o( the city towards London. In particular, there are concerns about the (act that the arches rest more on land than they do in the water, while there are islands in the river that become submer)ed in winter. Despite all that, drivin) over the water has a beauti(ul e((ect. The brid)e itsel( is very lon) and has an orderly desi)n. ’uneham House at Lord Harcourts ’uneham ;ourtenay is splendidly (urnished inside and contains many exquisite paintin)s. The exterior, however, is not as )rand as several other manors in this kin)dom. Woburn Abbey is situated between “x(ord and ;ambrid)e, and is the country house o( the Duke o( :ed(ord. The buildin) is stunnin). It is a lar)e house with a beauti(ul (acade its rooms are well-(urnished, some entirely in the French style, and there are )ood paintin)s, althou)h they are mostly

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ENGLAND: PART TWO portraits. The current owner is thou)ht to have been the richest individual in En)land when he was 23 or 24 and is estimated to have an income o( 70,000 pounds sterlin). I( he took an interest in the arts, then Woburn Abbey could quickly rise above all other En)lish manors. Apart (rom the libraries, which have already been mentioned, the buildin)s that are shown to (orei)ners in ;ambrid)e are schools, which consist o( several colle)es, and the Senate House, which is a beauti(ul, tall colossus, similar to the theatre in “x(ord, where all public ceremonies take place. Here, one can (ind (our statues one o( Glory, one o( the Duke o( Somerset, one o( Geor)e I, and one o( his successor, which was made by Wilton. Trinity ;olle)e, however, is not only superior to all buildin)s in this city but it is even superior to all that its sister academies pride themselves on. The buildin) is spacious and exceptionally beauti(ul and it is surrounded by lar)e estates, lovely institutions, and extensive, embowered )ardens. Inside, one can admire the ma)ni(icent hall and chapel. In the latter, one can (ind one o( the most exquisite products o( modern sculpture the statue o( ’ewton. His )aze is directed towards the sky, and he wears robes with per(ect drapery. In one o( his hands he holds a prism, which is as beauti(ully sculpted as the drapery. ;lare Hall is a small yet very (ine colle)e where one encounters a chapel constructed in the latest (ashion everythin) here is equally neat. The exterior o( Emmanuel ;olle)e and Kin)s ;olle)e make a )ood impression. Kin)s

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;olle)e ;hapel is a very tall and narrow buildin) with stained )lass windows. It does not have any Gothic pillars. ’ot (ar (rom ;ambrid)e, the Earl o( Hardwicke owns an estate called Wimpole. :uilt in )ood taste and (illed with antiques, in particular busts o( emperors, Wimpole Hall has several )ood chambers in addition to a )allery. ‘oreover, there is a beauti(ul library and there are paintin)s by the most talented masters, several o( which are portraits. In the adjacent parish church, a monument was erected in honour o( the previous earl. In ’orwich, one can visit the cathedral, which is one o( the best Gothic buildin)s in En)land. It is very vast and (ine, with well-carved pillars, and a tall, pointed spire. Surroundin) the church yard, there is a square )allery with many decorations in the same style as the church itsel(. Great and neat, there is also St ”eters ;hurch with an altar piece depictin) the liberation o( St ”eter (rom prison, as well as one o( the best or)ans in the kin)dom. The Guildhall is a hall o( remarkable size where citizens meet. Its walls are covered with portraits o( the previous Lord ‘ayors. There is also the (ine Assembly House with two halls that can be mer)ed into one so that it is bi) enou)h to hold hundreds o( people. :esides the capital o( the county, Hou)hton Hall and Holkham Hall are remarkable places in ’or(olk. The (ormer is a re)al manor, very (ine in both the exterior architecture and the interior decorations.46 It was built by Sir Robert Walpole

46 Footnote by ‘eerman I will describe them here as I have seen them thirteen years ago. Since then I have been informed that the Earl of

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ENGLAND: PART TWO and is now in the possession o( the Earl o( “x(ord. It is well worth seein) because o( its library, the ma)ni(icent )allery, the (urnishin)s o( the chambers, and especially because o( the many exquisite paintin)s that can be (ound all over the estate. In the centre o( the spiral staircase there is a statue o( )ladiators, which is supported by (our pillars. In the parlour, one is able to see various antiques and (ine bronze sculptures, as well as two oriental alabaster vases. In the ;arlo ‘aratti room, a portrait o( ;lement IX, by the painter the room is named a(ter, stands out, as well as a bust by Raphael and a table o( lapis lazuli. A more beauti(ul piece cannot be ima)ined than that o( :athsheba brin)in) Abisa) to David by van der Wer((, which can be (ound in another room. The marble parlour is partially composed o( local marble and a )reat )ranite vase can be (ound here. In the hall, a vast square room with )alleries, there is a beauti(ul copy o( Laocoön and a number o( old and new statues and busts. Thirteen years ago, Holkham Hall belonged to the Duchess of Leinster and was only open to the public on Tuesdays. The estate includes a house with an exterior of no particular appeal. Inside, the rooms are by far not equally well furnished and many of them are only small chambers. These shortcomings, however, are compensated by other beautiful features. One walks directly into a large vestibule surrounded by a gallery, which rests upon pillars of local marble. A regal

Oxford sold his collection of paintings to the Empress of Russia. It is unknown to me whether the remaining decorations and rarities of Hou)hton were included in this purchase.

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JOHAN MEERMAN stairway leads up to this gallery, just above the front door, and one finds various statues in niches there. Moreover, the library and the parlour are both beautiful; in particular, the gallery of statues stands out, which was built according to the most splendid and elegant taste. The gallery is high with deep niches on both sides and it is filled with antique sculptures and busts, some of them very excellent. A booklet called The Norfolk Tour describes all of these works of art as well as the paintings that are divided between all the chambers. This booklet also indicates the artwork that can be found at other manors in the county. There are also statues and busts in other rooms. The chapel is made of cedar wood and contains some lovely paintings. In addition, the chambers contain some beautiful table tops, amongst these one made of mosaic, and here and there one finds other charming pieces of furniture. The Ely Cathedral is one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in England, but it has not been properly maintained. It has a tower and a dome. Even larger than this church is the Peterborough Cathedral. The western facade would be of the utmost elegance if a tower were not missing on one side, taking away from the symmetry of its appearance. Fortunately, the interior of the cathedral is majestic. Thorn, the estate of Sir Robert Burnett, contains a house of splendid architecture as well as large halls and chambers. There are several statues and paintings here as well, but none of first-class quality.

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Burghley House, the regal estate of the Earl of Exeter at Stamford, exhibits a very spacious but old-fashioned building. Inside, there are the most elegant and most beautiful chambers, but also one of the most outstanding collections of paintings in England, which is almost overwhelmingly present in each chamber. The wood carvings in the chapel as well as in the rest of the house were done by Grinling Gibbons.47 The wall of the dancing hall features a fresco painting by Laguerre with life-sized figures. In one of the chambers there is a crayon drawing of the rape of the Sabine women, and another fresco of Venus and Adonis. Another room contains several pieces of embroidery by Miss Grey, which are the equivalent to some of the best paintings. Yet another room holds a work by Carlo Dolci, considered to be the most prominent piece in the collection: Our Saviour Blessing the Bread and Wine. Furthermore, one is able to see a rich jewellery box with a few rare items from the time of Queen Elizabeth, who has resided here. I was unable to admire the wonderful piece of Seneca bleeding to death, which also belongs to this valuable collection of paintings, as it is kept in a room which could not be opened during the time of my visit. In the city of Stamford, the tombs of the Burghley family in the St ‘artins ;hurch are worth a visit. Above all, the marble monument of the fifth earl and his wife stands out. It was made in Italy. Both the earl and the countess are buried here

47 Meerman probably misheard the name of the wood carver, as he has spelled Gibbons as Guevil in the original text.

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JOHAN MEERMAN between two statues on either side, with an obelisk rising in the middle. Other than a few old and new monuments in this church, there are also a couple of beautiful towers in this city. Grantham also has a high, narrow pointed tower that is highly admired. Belvoir is not far away and belongs to the Duke of Rutland. The estate only contains a building of one floor despite how spacious it is. The chapel is covered with a painting of the Resurrection of the Dead and the Last Judgement. The stairs are built in a peculiar but splendid style. There are family portraits on one side of the extraordinarily long gallery, and on the other side there are well-crafted copies of antiques. In the hall, one finds several good paintings; one of these paintings depicts a rising sun over water, and is particularly noteworthy. The dining room is decorated with thirteen portraits by van Dyck. Lincoln Cathedral is a vast building with a beautiful western facade, two towers at the eastern end, and a tall tower in the centre. Inside, one encounters more plaster on the thin pillars than in any other church of this kind. The monuments in this building were severely damaged by Cromwells soldiers.

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England: Part Three The Government

JOHAN MEERMAN

Fig. 10: Map of England, marked with places Meerman mentions in this chapter

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Until now, I have looked at En)land (rom a )eo)raphical and moral point o( view. What is le(t (or me to discuss is how the state is )overned. ‘y audience did not expect me to bore experienced readers with a description o( the :ritish (orm o( )overnment, or to present less experienced readers with somethin) that so many others have treated extensively. Thus, they will expect me to )ive only a (ew accounts and comments on this subject. ‘any have placed the En)lish state o( )overnment above that o( all other European provinces, and have considered it to be the best blend o( the (undamental principles o( a monarchy and a republic, seein) as it combines the best elements o( both, and omits the shortcomin)s that will always emer)e when one o( these (orms o( )overnment stands alone. Aside (rom contradictions, there is much truth in this system. It is di((icult to name any state where the personal (reedom o( its subjects )oes hand in hand with the (orce and rapidity with which important issues are executed. ’evertheless, when lookin) at the En)lish (orm o( )overnment, there is a si)ni(icant di((erence between its theory and its practice. In case people ask me, Who is the head o( state in the kin)dom, not only in name but in essence? I can answer (rankly the incumbent ministry. “ne or more members o( the state mana)e to create a (ollowin) in ”arliament throu)h their competence, their eloquence, their authority, their intri)ues, their declarations o( patriotism, and all sorts o( other means.

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Assumin) now that the kin),48 who is in char)e o( choosin) his own ministers, has chosen these types o( men, what will happen? When they are masters o( the national treasury and a wealth o( o((ices and positions in ”arliament, they are not shy o( usin) resources to procure a majority in both Houses o( the kin)dom. The opposition lets itsel( be heard incessantly, althou)h in times o( stability, their proportion to the court is estimated to be one to three. However, this can chan)e i( a minister invokes the wrath o( the people or i( the opposin) party sees an appropriate opportunity to seize a majority in ”arliament, even i( it were obtained with a sin)le vote. The (irst step is to hand an appeal to the kin), respect(ully requestin) the dismissal o( ministers (rom their o((ice when they have lost the trust o( the nation. To deny this request is inadvisable in itsel(, since a :ritish monarch without control over ”arliament is powerless. The ministry is now in control o( ”arliament (or as lon) as it can, until a similar situation occurs when someone else (orces their way into ”arliament and dissolves them. Then, (or as lon) as they are at the helm o( the state, they do not only have in(luence over ”arliament, which I have considered already, but they also have power over the kin) himsel(. ’o matter how stron) his personal aversion to the ministers is, the kin) is subject to their approval to a hi)h de)ree. It is a (act that he can dismiss their services or appoint others instead however, not only will the dismissed persons

48 King George III was on the throne durin) ‘eermans visits to the kingdom.

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ENGLAND: PART THREE become his most (ierce opponents in ”arliament, but he will also have to appoint ‘embers o( ”arliament with similar convictions in their place (or (ear that his new ministers, chosen (rom the minority, will be taken away by pleads (rom the majority. As a result, they presume a )reat deal o( power over the monarch in important state a((airs. However, they are only able to advise the kin) and dependin) on his decision, they will resi)n, become part o( the opposition, and sometimes they will even (orce the kin) to allow them to be part o( the ministry a)ain. While the royal prero)ative is derived (rom the ri)hts o( the monarch, it is (or the most part enjoyed by the incumbent ministry. In case the re)ent who has succeeded to the En)lish throne possesses both extraordinary talent and his natural prero)ative, his personal in(luence will by (ar exceed that o( his ministers. There(ore, it becomes less a consequence o( his title than o( his competence. It also speaks (or itsel( that the approval o( the kin) will )rant a law in all less important a((airs. As in any other European court, the people at St Jamess are as much interested in )ainin) the (avour o( the soverei)n as they are in preventin) bein) dischar)ed (rom state o((ice and court positions indeed, they are no stran)ers to all kinds o( intri)ues and secret methods in order to come into the monarchs )ood )races as in any other European court. “ne would not expect so many expressions o( respect and submission in a nation that treats its kin)s with such contempt at times, and insults its monarchs, whose lack o( power has been excessively emphasised, without restraint.

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Here, the royal (amily is the subject o( daily news and conversation nearly as much as in France. The court cercles and levés that are held at court are crowded, and particularly on )ala days, one can discern much beauty with re)ards to dress and carria)es. ‘uch o( this must be attributed to the nations re)ard (or the current monarch and his house.49 There is also plenty to say about the e((ect o( hi)h rank on other people, in particular the royal title, as well as the desire to be near somethin) exalted, or to )et to be intimately acquainted with a lo(ty thin), or even to expect to have some o( the lustre re(lect back onto ones own person. It is a manner o( thinkin), which has become increasin)ly popular, that they without a doubt borrow (rom their nei)hbours across the channel. When ”rincess Amelia died the previous year, all the decent nobles in London wore mournin). “n birthdays o( the members o( the royal (amily, several houses in the capital are illuminated. Women are only allowed to appear at court when they wear the proper robes de cour. Etiquette bein) )enerally mani(old, one would be tempted to say that these super(icial honours were introduced (or the sole purpose o( lettin) the monarch (or)et the limitations o( his power.

49 Footnote by ‘eerman “ne o( these aspects o( luxury, (or example, are the bedroom curtains. I came across these curtains in some place, and they had a repeating pattern consisting of very accurate portraits of the King, the Queen, and several Princes and Princesses placed together in groups. I also remember that during my first journey I saw wallpaper in an inn that contained the portrait of Wilkes likewise repeated several hundred times.

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“nce or several times, dependin) on the season, the levés o( the kin) and the cercles o( the queen are held at the old palace, St Jamess ”alace, instead o( at their usual residence at the end o( the park. The kin) receives those who await him in an old-(ashioned state bedroom and speaks to all who stand in a circle around him. A lar)e audience hall is suited (or the court days o( the queen, when His ‘ajesty is also present. ‘en and women stand in circles amon)st each other, even those who have not been introduced to the kin) and queen, and do not desire to be presented. The kin) starts his tour on the ri)ht-hand side, whereas his consort starts on the le(t- hand side. They are both joined by their retinue and speak to everybody who has been introduced to them. Even thou)h concerts and other (êtes are hosted here, it is not customary in En)land (or subjects to be invited to meals at court. The birthday o( the current kin) (alls in June, while the birthday o( the queen is a (ew weeks be(ore the kin)s. In order to better spread out the (estivities, the queens birthday is celebrated in the heart o( winter. “n both days, there is a ball at St Jamess ”alace, althou)h it can be called little more than a ceremony. It lasts (or approximately three hours and the only thin) that makes it remarkable is the splendour o( the clothin). A(ter their tour, Their ‘ajesties occupy two armchairs. A lar)e number o( minuets are per(ormed in (ront o( them, and are (ollowed by two or three contra dances, danced by little more than ei)ht couples. The hall itsel( and its decorations can only be described as dismal. The upstairs )allery is (ull o( spectators, whereas only those a((iliated with the court are

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JOHAN MEERMAN seated downstairs. The area used (or dancin) is not very lar)e. :enches stretch out in rows on three sides. When one o( the youn) princesses dances a minuet, one o( the lords must hold her train (or at least hal( the time, li(tin) it each time she turns around. It is also stran)e that the ruler whose birthday is celebrated is dressed plainly, while the other monarch is dressed extrava)antly. The ceremony is particularly solemn when the kin) )oes to the House o( Lords to open ”arliament, as well as to close it, and to approve bills. The latter sometimes happens by mandate. The monarch is carried to St Jamess ”alace in silence. From there he rides to the ”arliament :uildin) in the ei)ht horse-drawn Gold State ;oach, preceded and (ollowed by cavalry escorts and part o( their court. “nce there, he puts on his royal robes in special quarters. In the meantime, the lords have )athered in their usual assembly hall. Spacious, yet old-(ashioned, this hall is covered with tapestries depictin) the invincible (leet o( ”rince ”hilip. At the (ar end, there is a throne, and on each side o( it a chair has been placed (or the heirs to the throne. In (ront o( the throne, at some distance, there are three lar)e woolsacks, a symbol (or the countrys (oremost source o( prosperity. Durin) the consultation, the Lord ;hancellor is seated here, who, at the same time, is the chairman o( the assembly and the voice o( the ministry in this hall. The remainder o( the hall is occupied by a table in the middle and benches on the sides. The various peers have their own special places. All those who are not lords and per(orm no services to the House are )athered in (ront o( a counter, which is located towards the end o( the hall. When the kin)

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ENGLAND: PART THREE appears, stran)ers and women are admitted to)ether with the lords and are not seated in any speci(ic order. They usually wear their stately robes. These consist o( red coats with many rows o( white (ur across the len)th, as many as their special titles o( duke, earl, or any such title )rants them. The clothin) o( jud)es does not entirely correspond with their title, and the archbishops and bishops wear black chimere and rochet. As soon as the kin) has arrived at Westminster ”alace, canons are (ired. :e(ore enterin) the hall, he is preceded by a lar)e procession, to)ether with the (irst o((icials to the crown, who carry his re)alia (or him. The kin) himsel( is dressed like the lords, with a red mantle decorated with white (ur, which they assist in carryin) to the throne. “n his head rests a crown that is valued at one million Dutch )uilders. With much stateliness, the kin) reads a speech, o( which every sentence has been considered by ”arliament be(orehand. When there are bills that need approval, an o((icial steps towards the throne when the title o( every bill has been read by the kin). He then asks (or the kin)s approval as i( in secret and a(terwards openly announces the decision in those old French (ormulaic utterin)s that date back to ’orman times. Usually, he is i)norant o( the lan)ua)e and the worn-out French is thus terribly man)led. The kin) very rarely practises his ri)ht to reject bills that have been approved by both Houses, althou)h sometimes the speaker o( the House o( ;ommons demands (or the disproval o( bills, or at other times the chancellor announces an item. The kin) leaves in the same coach as he arrived, and since the lords have yet to per(orm several a((airs, everyone not

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JOHAN MEERMAN belon)in) to their order has to leave the assembly hall. At other times, no one is allowed to sit in on their deliberations. I do not (eel the need to talk more about the lords themselves here. Their appointment by the kin) is too well known. In addition, the name o( some province or city in their surname has a certain in(luence, to which they sometimes have no relation to other than the name. Furthermore, the succession by the oldest son or nearest male heir to the title and ri)hts50, are ensured by keepin) a detailed record o( all the births and deaths o( prominent (amilies at the Heralds ;olle)e. All their other prero)atives are well known so I (eel com(ortable enou)h to stop talkin) about it. In a constitution that shares traits (rom a monarchy and a republic, it is natural in many ways to have a )roup o( hereditary nobility stand between the ;rown and the nation. It is known that there are special departments in both Houses. I will leave it to the jud)ement o( those who have acquired deeper insi)ht into the state o( )overnment o( this kin)dom whether it would make such a lar)e di((erence i( the Houses o( ”arliament were to mer)e their meetin)s, other than their workload. As I have mentioned be(ore, the ministers are taken (rom both the House o( Lords and the House o( ;ommons, to which the ”rime ‘inister belon)s, as he is also the ;hancellor o( the Exchequer. He proposes the approval o( the ministry to both

50 Footnote by ‘eerman While the titles o( the other sons and dau)hters di((er at all times accordin) to their (athers titles, the title o( the oldest son is only di((erent durin) his (athers li(etime.

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Houses and with their in(luence they chan)e it by national decision. The assembly hall where the House o( ;ommons deliberates is very simple and does not have the lustre that is always attributed to the representatives o( such a people. “n the )round (loor, there is an armchair (or the speaker at the hi)her end. He is the only person to appear in a bench wi) and black robes, while everyone else dresses in whatever (ashion they please. Some even turn up with boots and a hat on their head, and sometimes appear even less decently dressed. In (ront o( the speaker, there is a table (illed with papers, books, requests, bills, and the like where custom o((icers and clerks have their sessions. “ne can see several rows o( benches on both sides (or the members to take their seats without any (ixed places. It has become customary, however, (or the minister and his party to sit on the benches to the ri)ht o( the speaker and (or the opposition to take their seats on the other side. At the end o( the hall is the counter o( the House o( ;ommons and upstairs there is a )allery (or those who are not a((iliated with the House but who still wish to attend the deliberations. Everyone who has been introduced by a ‘ember o( ”arliament is allowed to attend the debates althou)h, occasionally, everyone is (orced to leave. The )allery is also desi)nated (or the members themselves, especially (or countin) votes in uncertain cases. Usually, this only happens downstairs with a yea or nay. There are many parliamentary laws and customs. The speaker needs to know them and their execution by heart, so

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JOHAN MEERMAN that he can en(orce them when needed. ‘embers o( ”arliament stand up and always direct their ar)ument to the speaker, and they are only allowed to read (rom a piece o( paper when )iven permission. When they slip somethin) into their speech that )oes a)ainst the order o( the House they will be reprimanded by the speaker. It is well known what len)thy, compellin) addresses are )iven here with the power o( reason and how one speaker contemplates the ar)uments o( the opposition on the spot, and, without havin) taken any notes, re(utes them one by one. “n the other hand, irony constantly shines throu)h the speeches o( those members who (eel they have the talent (or it, while others purpose(ully add it to their speech. There is also the roarin) lau)hter that arises (rom wit and the constant interruptions o( speeches by yells o( Hear him, hear him! and “rder, order! at the sli)htest clamour that is beneath the respectability o( this distin)uished assembly. It is easy to believe that the ”rime ‘inister plays an important role and that his (avourites look at him as they discuss each item and do not express their ideas until they have learned his. Durin) my last journey throu)h En)land, I witnessed the election o( new ‘embers o( ”arliament on more than one occasion, which, as everyone knows, happens every seven years, with the exception o( deaths and the shortenin) o( the duration o( ”arliament by the soverei)n. At the end o( a )reat hall, a raised seatin) plat(orm has been erected. “n this plat(orm, not only the clerks holdin) the books used (or votin) are seated, but also the candidates who wish to be elected, or their relatives and (riends. This book contains the names o(

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ENGLAND: PART THREE the estates and inhabitants entitled to vote, as the ri)ht to vote is linked to belon)in) to an estate. The book also contains in(ormation about whether this estate is comprised o( land or housin), what the land yields, and (inally, (or which candidate one votes, besides a blank space (or remarks. The answers to these questions are (illed in (or each voter. It takes several days be(ore everyone has voted. Across the city where the elections are bein) held, all means (or persuasion are deployed in the meantime to in(luence the vote this or that way. Apart (rom direct bribin), everythin) is allowed. :oth inside and outside o( the votin) hall, the most beseechin) requests, the humblest pleads, promises that will not be kept, the kindest looks, and the most heart(elt handshakes are employed. In other words, every candidate and his (ollowers employ every means to )et the vote o( even the most insi)ni(icant voters. “n the candidates costs, the inns provide whatever is needed to convince a person. ”articularly because o( this last measure, the days (or votin) are marked by liberty, intoxication, and idleness throu)hout En)land. ‘oreover, i( this time (alls in a period when the nation is split in two because o( matters o( )reat importance, the discord becomes even lar)er, as one can ima)ine. The candidates add patriotism to the list o( reasons I previously mentioned above, which the people they aim to convince are susceptible to. :ecause o( this, bruises and other outward si)ns characterise the supporters on both sides. In short, the little that remains o( the En)lish way o( democratic )overnment is by no means shown by the praises (or this (orm o( )overnment. Althou)h there are several exceptions to the

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JOHAN MEERMAN rule, the )eneral experience undeniably shows that the majority o( people never thinks and acts (or themselves. Instead, those who know how to lead and )overn, or those who have the ability to o((er )i(ts and entertainment, are the masters. When I was in the county o( ;ornwall, one candidate used cunnin) means to ensure a lar)e number o( votes. He had rented all the carria)es in the province, so that those who declared themselves a)ainst him were (aced with )reat obstacles in their path to )et to their destination, while only the candidates consorts obtained access to means o( transport. Women play a lar)e role in the election (or ‘embers o( ”arliament, yet they are not allowed in the )allery o( the House o( ;ommons out o( (ear that its members will )et too distracted (rom the matters o( state that they are treatin). Apart (rom that, it is known that the representation in ”arliament is very uneven throu)hout the kin)dom and a reor)anisation is very necessary in this aspect. Some places send as many ‘embers to ”arliament as they have inhabitants with the ri)ht to vote, whereas elsewhere hundreds o( thousands are represented by a mea)re (our or six members. “nce they are elected, the elected know that they should not make more demands o( their voters i( they want their support in any subsequent election. Amon)st the lesser privile)es o( ‘embers o( ”arliament is the ri)ht o( not payin) posta)e throu)hout the country (or any letters they write themselves, or (or any letters o( others they put in an envelope. The ;ourt o( ;hancery, a court where the ;hancellor passes jud)ement by himsel( in cases re)ardin) equity, the

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;ourt o( Exchequer, which )overns (iscal matters, the ;ourt o( ;ommon ”leas, and the ;ourt o( Kin)s :ench, which concerns itsel( with re)ular court cases, are the (our main courts o( the kin)dom. They reside in chambers leadin) up to Westminster Hall. They jud)e solely accordin) to acts o( ”arliament, customs, and previous verdicts, not accordin) to Roman law in any way. Appeals (rom the ;hancery are directly addressed to the House o( Lords while appeals (rom the ;ourt o( ;ommon ”leas are directed to the ;ourt o( Kin)s :ench, and (rom that, usually to the lords. The counties and cities have their own lower courts. This is the common practice (or the administration o( justice. The Lord ;hancellor sits on a hi)h chair and beneath him there is a table and chair at which the witnesses are seated. Surroundin) this, there are benches (or lawyers and prosecutors. ’ext to them, or above in a )allery, the jury is seated. There are special benches and )alleries (or observers. Except (or the jury, all those belon)in) to the tribunal wear a mantle, bands, and a bench wi). The cases are introduced in writin) and by pleas the jud)e not only )overns everythin), but mediates between both parties. A(ter the witnesses have been heard by both lawyers, he presents the case to the jury in an ever so brie( (ashion. The jury, or those who have taken an oath, are only allowed to decide the (ate o( the accused, whereas the jud)e is the interpreter o( the law. ‘oreover, it is as unpleasant to be submer)ed in le)al procedures in En)land as anywhere else. “ne (inds onesel( subjected to the chicanery o( the practice it costs as much patience and time to be helped, and

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JOHAN MEERMAN one loses as much money as one mi)ht )ain. The position o( a capable lawyer is an important and di((icult one, and it is usually the (irst step to bein) appointed jud)e, and, subsequently, sittin) in the House o( Lords. At the Doctors ;ommons they jud)e accordin) to canon law. ’ot only ecclesiastical cases end up here, but also marital disputes, divorces, perjury, and other such matters. Since the En)lish marital laws di((er (rom the Scottish ones, and since both o( them are upheld in the respective realms, due to the laws o( a)reement, it o(ten happens that a couple leaves their parental home and elopes to Scotland. While they are there, they present a declaration that they are in a relationship and proo( o( their consummation o( marria)e, which is enou)h to be joined in marria)e. This is not possible in En)land. A(ter havin) executed this scheme, they return to En)land a married couple, where it is then impossible (or anyone to chan)e their status. The announcements o( marria)es in church is mostly (or commoners, whereas the weddin) ceremony (or the )entry is usually held at their manors. ;riminal jurisdiction in En)land is considered by the nation to be the (oremost stron)hold o( its (reedom and an exemplary institution o( its kind. ‘any (orei)n writers have expressed their approval to this sentiment and unite with the :ritish to admire this section o( their constitution. It pains my heart to think di((erently on the matter, but I )ladly con(ess that I (ind the Dutch (orm o( jurisdiction51 (ar superior to the

51 The Court of Justice in the Dutch Republic at this time operated with a schout, a position like Crown Prosecutor, heading a tribunal of

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En)lish one, even thou)h it also has its imper(ections. I would rather stand trial at the Dutch court than in (ront o( a :ritish jury, with the only exception bein), perhaps, i( I were truly )uilty o( a crime. To speak brie(ly o( the criminal law, there are many (laws to them that have not escaped the observant :ritish people and may be re(ormed soon. The same punishment applies to the cruellest murder as well as to the petty thie(, namely the )allows. The (ormer o((ence is only a))ravated by either movin) up the execution, or subjectin) to the anatomists kni(e. There are some very arbitrary (ines (or other crimes that are indeed much worse than some robberies, some are derived (rom old le)al codes and are utterly ridiculous. In(rin)ements that do not (all within the code o( law continue unpunished. Transportation to the colonies, which was customary in many cases, has now been chan)ed to a trans(er to :otany :ay on the coast o( ’ew Zealand.52 They intend to create a settlement (or the scum o( the nation there, not unlike the (irst inhabitants o( ancient Rome. This re)ion has been described as so pleasant that people have committed crimes just so they could enjoy the privile)e o( this sentence. ”risoners o( state, who have (or(eited their lives, are put to death by sword, and traitors su((er execution by a terrible machine, which requires extraordinary preparation. The

aldermen elected by the stadtholder, a high ranking official, or in their absence by burgomasters, or mayors. 52 Meerman is mistaken with regards to the location of Botany Bay. It is actually located on the east coast of Australia. It was here that the English formed their penal colony.

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JOHAN MEERMAN sentence (or perjury is the pillory, which was (airly recently in(licted upon a prosecutor. Suicide with intent is (ollowed by burial at a crossroads. Althou)h the coroners inquest, or what we call an autopsy, usually poses insanity as the verdict. ;oncernin) the administration o( justice itsel(, there is no lack o( correspondence to uncover criminals, but the lack o( power (rom the ;rown prosecutor rests in prosecution and the execution o( justice. ‘any crimes remain unpunished due to a lack o( prosecutors, or because the prosecutor chooses to abandon the case and pay the subsequent (ine, instead o( helpin) to end some un(ortunate souls li(e. Justices o( the peace are appointed in every city and district. A(ter an accused individual is cau)ht, and several justices o( the peace have decided i( there is enou)h reason to keep them detained, they detain them until the next assize. These are held every six weeks in London, and every three months in the provinces by travellin) jud)es, who are welcomed with an intricate ceremony. ‘any o( these prisons, especially ’ew)ate in the capital, are unworthy o( the nations noble way o( thinkin) and are un(it in the views o( citizens like John Howard. Everyone is pressed to)ether in narrow stalls where they poison each other with both moral and physical (umes. In En)land, there is an unusual and conta)ious disease that carries the name prison (ever. The prisoners who are brou)ht here either by accident, weakness, or who have strayed sli)htly (rom the path o( virtue have to endure constant roarin) and blasphemous lan)ua)e (rom devils. The inmate who has already received the death sentence will see his last remainin)

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ENGLAND: PART THREE hours disturbed and spoilt by such company. The only thin) the prisoners receive (or (ree is bread and water. They have to pay dearly (or everythin) else, even their own shackles, that is, i( they do not wish to have to bear the heaviest ones. ”rison breaks or rebellions occur more o(ten in ’ew)ate than anywhere else in En)land. When the time o( the assizes draws near, they draw up the list o( prisoners who have to under)o their trial or judicial investi)ation. The day o( each liti)ation is decided and the witnesses (or the prosecution are subpoenaed. Likewise, the prisoner has the liberty to summon the witnesses in his (avour. Subsequently, all o( this occurs in public, which the :ritish consider as one o( their (oremost privile)es. As much personal (reedom as this appears to )rant, anyone who is (amiliar with criminal justice will understand that this will hinder a calm investi)ation in hundreds o( cases. ‘oreover, since inmates and witnesses are not used to speakin) to a tribunal and because o( the lau)hter that sometimes arises, they can become intimidated and con(used. “ccasionally, they even contradict themselves accidentally. The discovery and trackin) down o( accomplices is made enormously di((icult because o( this. Is it not the case that the same objective o( security is accomplished amon)st us by readin) the verdict in public, by displayin) the criminals at that moment, and by enumeratin) the reasons that have led to this verdict? :y citin) what the accused has provided (or their apolo)y, and especially by the testimony they have already provided, they could now contradict themselves in (ront o( everyone. All o( these

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JOHAN MEERMAN proceedin)s (ollow each other consecutively in En)land, except (or some cases that are either too extensive, or where the presence o( one o( the main witnesses bene(its the accused. The people involved o(ten do not (ind out the truth because they miss the advanta)e o( new and repeated con(rontations between parties, some o( which made necessary by previous con(rontations. “(ten the le)al proceedin)s )o on even without the presence o( subpoenaed witnesses. At the assizes o( London there are sometimes over twenty cases on one day, and, o( those cases, there are usually three or more suspects sentenced to death. I need only remind one how care(ully they treat the lives and honour o( the accused in the Dutch Republic to make one throw up their hands in astonishment, and to worsen ones concept o( the En)lish way o( le)al proceedin)s. Still, the En)lish are elated that they have the privile)e to choose their peers and remove anyone they deem un(it (rom the jury. In the (irst place, many o( these procedures seem to be chimerical. That which is most dear to me, I would at least leave to be decided by court o( law, to people who achieved their position throu)h study. Likewise, I would leave it to those who will not pass jud)ement, because they mi)ht lack the experience, until they have called upon capable lawyers who are accustomed to the occupation and the related work. This is pre(erable to bein) subjected to ones (ellow citizens who have suddenly been taken out o( their usual pro(essions. They have to listen to di((erent and o(ten contradictory statements with superhuman attention, to)ether with le)al ar)uments that accompany these statements. Then they have to decide

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ENGLAND: PART THREE the suspects innocence be(ore they can proceed to anythin) else. Secondly, there are very (ew cases in which the suspect uses the privile)e to remove jurymen who are acquainted to him. “ut o( 100 prisoners, at least one knows one o( his jurymen, and out o( thousands, it is probable that not one prisoner would re(use them to serve as his jury. The rack has been abolished in En)land. Thus, they only appeal to sworn statements, without any inter(erence with the testimony o( the accused. I am very much in (avour o( the handlin) o( this re)ular method o( procedure, even thou)h it is always reassurin) (or jud)es to have the con(ession enclosed with the testimonies. However, this can be obtained by usin) alternative methods other than subjectin) the accused to the rack. For instance, silencin) them with the power o( evidence, takin) away all their alibis, as well as other persuasive means. This usually ensures that they cannot escape the verdict due to their own stubbornness. Apart (rom this, I think that they have to compare the testimonies o( the witnesses to the corpus delicti more o(ten, and hear them out extensively and repeatedly, instead o( proceedin) with the case when it is impossible or inappropriate (or the witnesses to be present. Also, they should let the witnesses take the oath more solemnly, rather than simply payin) attention to their status and personality. Similarly, rich prisoners should not be allowed to have a lawyer, while those who cannot a((ord one have to take re(u)e in the protection o( the law. All o( this supposedly excellent execution o( justice explains why there is probably no country in Europe where so many people convicted to death insist on

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JOHAN MEERMAN their innocence o( the crime (or which they have been convicted at the threshold o( eternity, althou)h they will con(ess to deserve the death penalty on account o( several other misdeeds. Likewise, so many others in the crowd cry (or reven)e when two or more witnesses commit perjury and so are responsible (or their demise. “n the other hand, thousands o( prisoners who have (or(eited their lives walk (reely because o( a lack o( prosecutors and witnesses, or an abundance o( statements (rom the latter. This is as detrimental to the peace o( mind and security o( the nation as the En)lish consider the consequences o( other (orms o( justice across Europe. The ;rown prosecutor is the )eneral prosecutor o( all committed crimes. He used to be the head o( (ixed, capable, and well-paid jud)es, who would jud)e usin) care(ully investi)ated evidence and, i( they can obtain it, a con(ession by the prisoner. They would do this a(ter allowin) a lawyer to plead (or the criminal case in public however, even with moderate laws, the attorney )eneral would always immediately be able to convict all the )an)s o( thieves that possess so many means to escape justice. He would make an institution such as the law )leam with the idea o( true (reedom. ’owadays, due to the severity o( the punishments, the kin) uses his ri)ht to pardon more )enerously than any other nation has ever accounted (or. He is always presented with the list o( death convictions a(ter the assizes, (or only a third o( which he )ives the warrant or order (or execution. ‘eanwhile the punishments (or others are miti)ated or nulli(ied, i( the kin) pleases to do so. Some convicts are

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ENGLAND: PART THREE pardoned shortly be(ore the execution, whereas a suspended sentence can be reinstated suddenly, so that those who had already relinquished their (ear o( death now have to unexpectedly taste its bitterness yet a)ain. “ne can easily understand that none o( these actions are random. ’evertheless, to what extent will anyone re(rain (rom criminal acts when they have so many chances to escape their punishment? They can simply (latter the jury ever so subtly so that some exoneratin) circumstance will land them in the (avour o( the kin). What should people think o( laws when they have to deviate (rom them in two out o( three cases to avoid appearin) barbaric? I do not intend to (ully explain all the remarkable aspects o( the justice system in this part. The twelve jurymen are picked (rom a crowd o( people and they are appointed to act as such (or the entire period o( assizes. They choose the people that are present, and those who are chosen are expected to take oaths (or every case, but at the very least (or every sittin). They sit to)ether on a (ew benches, or in )alleries. The prisoner appears, is placed in a desi)nated stall, and he is read the accusations that need to be investi)ated. The crown prosecutor and the jud)e, who sits on a raised chair, question both the witnesses pleadin) (or or a)ainst the prisoners and the witnesses pleadin) a)ainst the prisoners. “ccasionally, the jury asks questions as well. Similarly, both parties are allowed to question each other, as well as the witnesses. These witnesses are o(ten seated at a table in the middle, but sometimes elsewhere. Some remarks could be made about the method o( questionin) too I have witnessed the crown

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JOHAN MEERMAN prosecutor bad)er the accuser to reveal his true colours. This is done to such an extent that anybody would lose the heart to turn to court (or protection. At the end, a(ter the jud)e has (inished questionin) the prisoner on all that he can think o( to say in his de(ence, he pieces everythin) to)ether in a speech that is most o(ten a prime example o( jud)ement and jurisprudence. He shows the jury what has been proven in (avour o( those on trial and what has been proven a)ainst them, to what extent the witnesses can be deemed trustworthy, and what certainties and uncertainties remain surroundin) the case. Furthermore, he recounts what could a))ravate the crime, what circumstances could attenuate it, as well as other (actors and in(luences, be(ore he calls on them to reach a verdict and simply state the words )uilty or not )uilty. At times, the jud)e mi)ht even voice a clear pre(erence (or his choice o( verdict. I( it is an easy case, the twelve sworn members o( the jury will convene and the person whose name is read out (irst will speak the (ate(ul words. In case o( dissension, however, the jury will retire to a special chamber and will only return once they are ready. It is known that the verdict must be issued unanimously, and that the jury is denied all contact with the outside world (or as lon) as their consideration is on)oin). The jud)e, havin) heard the verdict o( )uilty, now applies the committed crime to the laws and elaborates on which punishment the law requires. I( the de(endant is considered to be not )uilty, he is released immediately. I( the crime is to be punished by death, the jud)es announcement o( this towards the criminals is always most

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ENGLAND: PART THREE poi)nant. The convicts are )iven several days to prepare (or the )reatest possible chan)e at hand death. At the execution, one is most attentive towards the convicts. Relatives and (riends are allowed to see them to say their (inal )oodbyes. The preacher, who accompanies them, sin)s, prays, and speaks with them (or as lon) as they desire. The convicts themselves address the people i( they so desire, and o(ten they )ive the si)nal that ti)htens the noose and sends them strai)ht into eternity. They always han) with covered (aces (or 30 to 45 minutes, a(ter which point they are either placed in a casket on a hearse or )iven to the (amily on a rental hearse to be taken home and buried there. There are numerous examples o( those who be)an showin) si)ns o( li(e and came to a(ter bein) han)ed (or a too-short amount o( time. As a result, the old custom o( transportin) the convicts by carria)e (rom ’ew)ate to Tyburn, which are at least 45 minutes apart, has, in London at least, wisely been abolished. ”reviously, convicts brou)ht to the )allows in Tyburn used to have the carria)e pulled out (rom under them. ’owadays, a sca((old has been erected in (ront o( the prison itsel(, with a trap door beneath the )allows, which is tri))ered by a sprin) when the moment o( death arrives. The executions in the capital are overseen by the Sheri((s o( London, who are like baili((s. I will )ladly re(rain (rom mentionin) anythin) about the :ritish )round (orces and naval power, since the public records themselves, which parliament provides, elaborately discuss them yearly. The re)iments, which are incomprehensibly weak in numbers, do not carry the names o( their colonels, but are called the (irst, the twentieth, et

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JOHAN MEERMAN cetera. They chan)e )arrisons yearly, even in very remote locations, but those outside o( the kin)dom stay there (or lon)er. In times o( war, a citizens militia is set up in addition to the pro(essional army. Armies are also (requently stationed near sea harbours. The landlords livin) on the coast are consequently obli)ated to work very hard to take on an inordinate number o( boarders, which, like the (requent (orcin) o( youn) men to join the navy, is hardly consistent with the eminent ideas o( (reedom that the avera)e :riton has.53 Keeps and (orti(ied settlements are quite uncommon in En)land, but castles abound. These would, however, likely not last lon) durin) a sie)e in modern-day war(are. The Tower o( London is an extensive stron)hold, always armed with a battalion o( 450 men. The ;rown Jewels, as well as the state prisoners, are kept there, coins are minted there,54 and enou)h weapons (or 80,000 men are shown there. Diverse weapons are mounted on the walls o( this hall in various appealin) shapes and (orms, includin) columns, stars,

53 Footnote by ‘eerman In general, the jus eminens is used to a far greater degree in England than here in the Dutch Republic. Not just in times of need or in order to perform the noblest of deeds: an act of parliament often forces its subjects to sell their house and belongings for indemnification even just for the purpose of making a city more beauti(ul. 54 Footnote by ‘eerman As far as I know, the Tower is the only place in England where coins are minted. The silver is extraordinarily pure in this kingdom, but consequently also extremely scarce. To exchange half a guinea sometimes proves to be difficult. The amount of false or light guineas, as well as shillings and pennies, is incomprehensibly lar)e.

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‘edusa heads, and the like. The Duke o( Richmond, who is the ‘ilitary Secretary, has stated that the weapons display will be improved even (urther. Another hall displays the combat armour o( an entire series o( En)lish monarchs, includin) the harnesses o( the horses they rode on. Alon)side this, the Tower is known (or keepin) all sorts o( trophies taken (rom conquered enemies, amon)st which the lar)e (la) o( Saint Eustatius that had been captured by Admiral Rodney (rom the walls o( the (ortress in a victory that deserves no honourable mention. In Woolwich, not too (ar (rom London, there is an Royal ‘ilitary Academy that houses an extensive weapon (oundry. The three ovens in which the metal is melted holds a total o( 100,000 pounds in wei)ht. In Woolwich, there are also several docks that can be drained to either build warships or repair them when they have su((ered dama)e. The admiraltys wharves at the two notable sea harbours are not shown to (orei)ners, except in exceptional circumstances. Havin) missed this privile)e, I will only recount what I have seen, apart (rom the condition o( these harbours, on my previous journey. Just outside the city o( ”ortsmouth lies the artillery dockyard, where cannons are kept (or approximately 50 ships. The arsenal consists o( three lar)e halls stacked on top o( each other that keep a )reat supply o( not only )uns, but all kinds o( war machinery. The dockyard is about (i(teen minutes (rom ”ortsmouth and is surrounded by the city. “ther than the ships that are built there, this dockyard has separate lar)e stone warehouses that used to be made o( wood be(ore the most recent (ire. A narrow cable house, about a quarter mile in len)th, is also

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JOHAN MEERMAN located on the dockyard. I have already discussed the marine hospital in Gosport, an avera)e city north o( ”ortsmouth. The dock o( ”lymouth consists o( several streets and squares surroundin) barracks o( one (loor in hei)ht, which in turn surround the re)iment. Remarkably, the o((icers invariably occupy the side o( the re)iment that (aces the a(ternoon sun. The city o( ”lymouth itsel( is less impressive many houses have walls, as well as roo(s, paved with slate to protect them (rom the moisture. “n one side o( the city, some (orti(ications lie on the water(ront and are supplied with valuable batteries. Kitchens that prepare the provisions (or ships, which in En)land are overseen by the admiralties rather than by the ships captains, are near here as well. ”lymouth Sound is a lar)e natural bay that in turn )ives sea access to three other, more inward bays. “ne o( these is (airly lon) and continues (or a (ew miles into the county o( Exeter a shorter second one passes in (ront o( the city o( ”lymouth and the third, which is both the lon)est and broadest o( the three, contains the ships. It is surrounded by the wharves on one side and ‘ount Ed)cumbe on the other and runs several miles into the counties o( Devon and ;ornwall. ;arved entirely out o( rock, the whar( has several wet and dry docks, ropewalks, and two very lar)e and very well-built storehouses. A ship o( avera)e size is built here in about (ive weeks 2,000 people work here daily and weapons (or 10,000 are kept in the storehouses. ‘oreover, there are anchor houses, artillery, and the likes. A little island emer)es (rom the bay on which an old stron)hold is located some smooth slate rocks and peninsulas can also be (ound there. The

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Eddystone Rocks, on which a lar)e li)hthouse has been constructed, lie a (ew miles into the sea. Two people live there to)ether, isolated (rom humanity. Rou)h sea conditions sometimes prevent supply ships (rom even reachin) the tower and deliverin) new supplies to these exiles (or months in a row. Their daily routine, which consists o( keepin) the (ire in the beacon lit, is a short and easy task. I( what I have heard is true, namely, that the two do not )et alon) well, then there are (ew mortals whose destiny I pity more than theirs. I will also brush past the section on (inance without any real mention, as one does not need to have been in En)land to be tau)ht about the current (inancial conditions there. Everyone knows that the national debt is currently around 240 million pounds sterlin), but the nation is still wealthy enou)h to pay interest on this incredible amount o( debt without e((ort in addition to the essential spendin). The popularity o( the ‘inister heavily depends on the type o( taxes he su))ests to the ;ity Hall. Taxin) the existin) real estate could certainly yield a lot o( money, but as the upper class would notice this immediately, a bill like this would never pass parliament. The commerce treaty with France has completely chan)ed import tari((s and will most likely decrease smu))lin), which had increased to terrible hei)hts.55 A (orei)ner, when he enters the Kin)dom, will only be inspected upon enterin) the kin)dom and not very strictly at that, (rom a Dutch point o( view at

55 Eden Treaty of 1786, which effectively ended the economic war between the British Isles and France. Collapsed in 1793 as the two nations saw war between them again (EB).

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JOHAN MEERMAN least. Except (or some )oods determined by parliament, all that is imported is either taxed or deemed contraband. The (orei)n trade o( En)land is also not part o( the task that I have set out (or mysel( (or this book. What I can remember (rom the notable cities (or sea trade I will recount in their particular descriptions. For now, I will limit mysel( to some words about the harbour o( Lord Delaval. This nobleman, the owner o( several (actories near Hartley, a sea town not (ar (rom Tynemouth in ’orthumberland, built a harbour out o( his own pocket to improve the transport o( coal to his (actories. ;ut out (rom the rock, its depth is about 60 (eet and the width is as such that ships can only lie in the harbour in a row. Due to the surroundin) cli((s, the passa)e into the harbour is sli)htly problematic, but a sluice that separates the sea (rom the harbour ensures that the ships can be as still as they would be sailin) on a canal. Usin) the sluice, sailin) out o( the harbour is even possible, albeit di((icult, durin) sprin)tide. Additionally, smaller ships can exit at all times via another harbour, which was also built by the same lord. :oth harbours are located behind and connected by a reservoir in which about twenty ships can lie simultaneously at any )iven time. A lar)e crane is currently bein) used to li(t the wares (rom the ships, especially i( said wares are meant (or the )lassblowin) workshops. A valley is even bein) (illed and turned into (lat country to (urther ease the process o( deliverin) wares to the workshops. The way in which coals are loaded into the ships in the new harbour is noteworthy as well. The coal wa)on is positioned next to the ship that lies in the water (ar below. The wa)on is then tilted so all the coal

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(alls into the car)o hold o( the ship. Followin) this, a rope is pulled over the pile o( coal, ensurin) that the coal spreads to every corner o( the hold. ‘any canals cut throu)h En)land, especially its northern hal(, to improve domestic trade, and many more canal buildin) projects are underway. The most remarkable amon)st these is one by the Duke o( :rid)ewater, intended to alleviate the under)round shippin) at the coal mines that I have described earlier. His canal starts near ‘anchester and mer)es into the river ‘ersey at Warrin)ton, which reaches the sea not (ar (rom Liverpool. :etween ‘anchester and Warrin)ton there are several horse-drawn boat services a week, all o( which belon) to the Duke, alon) with some sailboats. “n this route, travel by horse-drawn boat is just as cheap as overland travel, and even sli)htly (aster. The canal is not very broad and is not much deeper than (our (eet. A lar)e basin is located near the city, in which the canal is drained o( super(luous water when necessary. From this basin, the water subsequently (lows into the river Irk. From time to time one encounters these kinds o( basins when travellin) in En)land. The remarkable thin) here is that this particular canal, (our to (ive miles (rom ‘anchester, crosses the river Irwell, the (ormer main waterway (or ship transport, several times on a (ew massive arches. :ecause o( this, one can sometimes see two ships sailin) above each other. Similarly, not too (ar (rom there, the public road leads under an arch underneath a canal, so that one can sometimes see a ship sailin) above a carria)e. The under)round shippin) o( Talk-on-the-Hill is connected to a canal that stretches (rom :irmin)ham to Liverpool and

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JOHAN MEERMAN mer)es into the river Trent on the other side. As a result, the ’orth Sea is connected to the Irish Sea. In those parts o( En)land where )oods have to be transported overland, one can spot horri(yin)ly heavy (rei)ht wa)ons that can only be pulled by multiple horses. All proper cities have weekly markets on set days, durin) which all o( the stalls are well supplied. It is worth visitin) some o( them just to witness how well-o(( the (armers are. In Worcester, amon)st others, the main chamber o( the ;ity Hall, as well as the square in (ront o( it, was (illed with a )reat number o( women and )irls dressed so properly that they looked more like youn) ladies than (armer )irls. Seated next to each other on benches, they sold all kinds o( )oods, but poulaille in particular. Aside (rom sellin) (owl and ducks, most women also sold sucklin) pi)s, which they usually held on their laps. ;hester hosts a (amous cheese market twice a week and is also known (or its (amous linen market, which is held once a year or more (requently. ;hester is the main sellin) point (or almost all Irish linen transported to En)land. In order to sell all this linen, a )reat rectan)ular square has been enclosed with shoppin) )alleries. In these )alleries, each store hosts two square rooms located behind each other. The salesman emer)es in the (ront room, while all stock is kept in the back room. Another must-see is the cloth market (or coarse (abrics in Leeds, a city in Yorkshire. The market is held twice a week on both Tuesdays and Saturdays, but the (ormer is the primary one. The markets are o((icially opened at hal( past ei)ht in the

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ENGLAND: PART THREE mornin) and all (abrics are sold out within the hour. The market buildin) is a lar)e and simple buildin) with a low ceilin), consistin) o( three square rooms. Each o( these rooms is occupied by several salesmen exhibitin) their cloths on a table in (ront o( them. ”rospective buyers pass by these tables row by row and each aisle, as it were, has its own special name. Fabrics are priced between six and twelve shillin)s per two (eet, but on avera)e the prices hover closer to the (ormer. ;loths are brou)ht here (rom all o( the nearby towns and cities. Each salesman carries at least three pieces o( cloth, but some carry up to six pieces, or even more. While the number o( sellers is inconceivably hi)h, only a (ew buyers can be spotted at the market. This discrepancy is easily explained by the (act that all (abrics are bou)ht by city ne)otiators workin) on commission. The (actories in En)land are )rowin) daily at an indescribable pace, causin) a similar )rowth o( prosperity. They attract people (rom many cities and countless residents o( the countryside. The hi)h prices o( )roceries do not prove to be a hindrance to these people the nation seems born to deal with such unpredictable undertakin)s. ”arliament exercises all o( its power to encoura)e people to partake in the industry o( (actories. Whoever succeeds in stumblin) upon a new invention receives a patent (or several years, )rantin) that person the sole ri)ht o( usin), producin), and employin) said new invention. :ecause o( this, one can re)ularly see advertisements (or patented snu((ers, patented shoe polish, and the like, that appear in the newspaper.

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The most si)ni(icant pro)ress by the :ritish is (ound in the (ield o( mechanics and, more recently, in the (ield o( chemistry, which has contributed to the )rowth and prosperity o( many o( its (actories. En)lish )oods have always had a reputation (or bein) stron) and durable, but now that more dedication is bein) )iven to the (ine arts and people have be)un to study the masterpieces o( old and new artists, they have newly )ained reputations (or taste and innovation as well. “ne will want to excuse me (rom )oin) into detail about the production processes o( )oods I have witnessed in the (actories I have seen, as I only concern mysel( with remarkin) upon what I deem to be o( worth. The wool industry is one o( the oldest and most essential sources o( En)lish wealth. I have already mentioned somethin) about the sheer number o( sheep that are bred in the southwest o( the kin)dom. In the same area, especially in Somerset and Devonshire, the best and (inest cloth is created, while (urther north the coarser variety is produced. In Exeter and its surroundin)s, all available hands are preoccupied with the production o( ser)e (abric. To encoura)e wool (armin) and the (actories where the wool is processed, all corpses must be buried in a (lannel under)arment, without exception. ‘any other types o( (abric are traded in ’orwich, some o( which consist entirely o( wool and some partly o( wool and partly o( silk, such as calamanco, camelot, damask, et cetera. The city counts 800 people en)a)ed with windin) spun thread, weavin) the best o( its kind, and other tasks like this, while the countryside produces (abrics o( lesser quality, as the cheaper kind sells better there. Women are (ound spinnin) at weavin)

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ENGLAND: PART THREE looms in every house in every villa)e in ’or(olk. Throu)hout the week, they deliver their handiwork to manu(acturers in the city and receive their compensation. The e((ects o( the resultin) cash (low are noticeable throu)hout Europe. The number o( (actories where cotton is processed is increasin) astonishin)ly in the kin)dom. The majority o( what they receive comes (rom the Dutch West-Indies. ‘r Hackwri)ht is the inventor o( the cotton mill, or at least he is taken to be. For years in a row he used to own the only one in En)land, but nowadays ei)ht or nine exist in the kin)dom as his exclusive ri)hts on the invention have expired. There are three or (our in Derbyshire, with two new ones owned by Hackwri)ht soon to be added there is one near Holywell in Wales and there is one on the outskirts o( She((ield. Stran)ers are strictly (orbidden (rom seein) them. “utwardly, they look like very lar)e, hi)h, and oblon) houses o( (ive or six (loors in hei)ht. A lar)e water wheel sets thousands o( wheels in motion that spin the cotton and prepare it (or the (actories, and there is barely any need (or anythin) but a childs hand to operate the wheels or to do the (ew thin)s in which mechanics (all short. At ni)ht, when such a buildin) is completely illuminated, it makes a )reat impression. In ‘anchester and in the surroundin) countryside, nearly everythin) that can be made o( cotton is produced. The cotton velvets that are produced there are particularly noteworthy. While the weavin) itsel( is not done in the city, the spinnin) is. ;uttin) up the woven pieces by usin) a sharp instrument )oin) throu)h the stitches )ives cotton the woolly and smooth texture o( velvet, a practice that requires extreme dexterity.

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Another remarkable part o( the process here is the sin)in) o( the cut-up pieces o( cotton by dra))in) them across a red-hot iron (i(teen times in a row. This serves to scorch o(( any remainin) lon) hairs. Repeated bleachin) subsequently )ives the cotton a renewed white appearance, as it had been stained by the sin)in). The next step is dyein) the cotton. In special (actories, patterns are pressed on the dyed pieces o( cotton cloth. ‘anchester also has some cotton strip (actories, where a person can weave as much as nineteen yards per day on each loom. I( such a loom is capable o( settin) pieces side by side, there will usually be between twenty and thirty strips in a row. A proper o((erin) o( locally produced )oods is an object o( attention in ‘anchester, and the wearin) o( chintz and other cotton clothin) is becomin) more common amon)st En)lish women every day. Similar to ‘anchesters cotton strip (actories, ;oventry boasts (actories producin) ribbons o( silk. ’ot too (ar (rom ;oventry there is a very lar)e buildin) where the silk is harvested (rom the silkworms and (urther prepared and spun. I have ne)lected visitin) the interior o( this (acility. In the silk mill located in Derbyshire, mostly built in the same way as the cotton mills that I have discussed, the water wheel turns 70,000 other wheels throu)hout the buildin) in all directions. There, the untreated silk is received (rom France and :randenbur) and woven into sin)le, double, and quadruple threads. A(terwards, they are sent to London to be cooked and woven. A )reat number o( people is required to operate the many wheels. Five lar)e halls are located above one another in two, the silk is woven, and in the remainin)

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ENGLAND: PART THREE three, it is spun. Those o( Stockport hi)hly resemble this one in Derbyshire, and both are held in hi)h esteem. In Warrin)ton, a city in between Liverpool and ‘anchester, one can (ind a )reat number o( (actories, amon)st which are (actories that produce sails (or ships. As lon) as the majority o( a citys residents can live o(( the production o( an article o( clothin), it has a place in this chapter. There(ore, Woodstock deserves a mention here (or its production o( )loves. The carpet (actory o( ‘r ‘oore in London is the source o( which all other manu(acturers o( the same name in En)land derive either the )oods themselves or the way in which they are produced. This production process di((ers (or each product. In contrast to the Gobelins ‘anu(actory in ”aris, where carpets are worked on (rom the back, re)ular wool carpets are manu(actured in one piece as they han) down and are worked on (rom the ri)ht side. The untreated worsted threads, which have the same base colour as the carpet, are hun) besides one another. The coloured threads are knitted on the same rope as the untreated threads with the use o( a wooden stick which has been sharpened on one end, cuttin) the threads as it )oes. A pair o( scissors is therea(ter used to remove the loose ends. The shorn and cut pieces o( thread are made into strips on a re)ular weavin) loom, which are partly assembled to)ether into carpets that are mainly used to cover hallway (loors and steps on a (li)ht o( stairs. Shorn carpets last up to six times lon)er than woolly ones. The sheer beauty o( ‘r ‘oores carpets is known (rom all the examples seen here across the country.

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Similarly, En)land is currently covered in )lasswork (actories one can (ind seven in :ristol alone. Usually, the (actories are cone-shaped, at times even very hi)h and tapered. The pots in which the substances are molten over the (lames are made (rom Stourbrid)e clay, stron) enou)h to withstand ten or more years over a continuously burnin) (ire. In contrast, our Dutch )lass shacks require new pots every year or so, (orcin) one to extin)uish the (ire (or approximately a (ew weeks. In London, the (inest white )lass is made and polished into crowns, lustres, and the like. Iron (or)eries makin) use o( lar)e hammers brou)ht in motion by a revolvin) water wheel are (ound all throu)hout the kin)dom as well. Amon)st other places, I have seen one near Worcester. There, the iron bars are not only (or)ed but also (lattened by two heavy stones in order to make them into nails. In Derby, one can (ind copper mills besides the iron mills as well. :irmin)ham almost came in (irst in the rankin) o( En)lish manu(acturin) cities. Almost all that is used in daily li(e there is manu(actured locally. :irmin)ham is especially en)a)ed with producin) )oods as cheaply as possible throu)h the usa)e o( machines. While (orei)ners are shown the external workin)s o( everythin), the essential secrets o( the local production processes lie in the chemical preparations. “ne o( the most (amous inhabitants o( the city and its surroundin)s is

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‘r :oulton.56 About 30 years a)o he merely owned a very small (actory in his birthplace, but his )enius, reason, and ability soon raised him above the circle o( his (ellow townspeople. As his (actory and business )rew, he soon (elt the need to expand to Soho, a (ew miles out o( town, where he built an entirely new (actory and employed 700 to 800 people. ;hemistry and mechanics have both become intrinsically intertwined with his existence. Drau)htsmanship, mathematics, and astronomy are amon)st ‘r :oultons passions as well. He continually succeeds in makin) new discoveries. A rule o( thumb in his (actories is that everythin) must be done either by machines, or by people workin) like machines, while he himsel( is indeed the only one deservin) o( the label o( artist and the only one instructin) the mechanical processes. ;ompared to other producers o( haberdasheries, ‘r :oultons (actory is almost common, but it excels in producin) (inely polished steel, or moulu, and the manu(acturin) o( yellow and white buttons. Silver is also worked there, as well as plated silver, turtle shells, and ceramics. A hi)h level o( taste is a characteristic o( the many )oods displayed here. The recently invented ar)on lamp, castin) an incomprehensibly illuminatin) )low without producin) too much damp, is mounted and used in all sorts o( ways.57 An

56 Matthew Boulton, 1728-1809. Meerman misspells him Bolton, English manufacturer, also business partner of James Watt, who produced and installed hundreds of Boulton & Watt steam engines (Tann). 57 Footnote by ‘eerman The main idea of an argon lamp is that it consists of a cotton tube, partly encompassed by a tin tube and kept

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JOHAN MEERMAN instrument to copy (reshly written writin) is also shown here the copyin) is done by pressin) wet paper between two cylinders. Here, most letters issued by the accountant are copied. “ne can probably ima)ine the size o( this buildin) and the number o( departments in which it is divided. The steel itsel( is prepared here, as well as the composition o( the or moulu. A water wheel is truly indispensable here. ”lated silver is heavily used in En)land, althou)h it only costs a little less to produce than solid silver.58 It is known that in order to produce it, a very thin silver plate is laid upon a piece o( red compound metal, the two o( which can subsequently be stretched to in(inity between two cylinders. Fi)ures are en)raved in the plated silver partly by hammers and partly by press (orms. ;uttin) these (orms into their proper shape exceeds all other work in costliness each individual piece requirin) a special (orm is wrou)ht separately, to be soldered unto the other individually wrou)ht pieces a(terwards. It appears that, as o( a (ew years a)o, ‘r :oulton has been slackin) o(( with re)ards to his (actory, which mi)ht be because o( the riches he has already acquired, or it mi)ht be because other undertakin)s that require his attention. The majority o( what is currently bein) produced there consists o( the metal buttons mentioned above. Fewer people are bein) employed than previously and ‘r :oulton has many )oods

moist by spermaceti oil, which is then aspirated from below with air penetratin) into the lamp throu)h little holes. 58 Footnote by ‘eerman I have heard of a plated silver soup terrine produced at Mr Boultons (actory bein) sold (or ei)hteen )uineas.

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ENGLAND: PART THREE produced (or him by other manu(acturers. His bi))est pro(its, as I was in(ormed last year, currently consist o( royalties that all owners o( the improved (ire machines have to pay him. This is because he has invented the improvement, which saves about a third o( the (ire necessary (or production, and throu)h patent laws he )ained the ri)ht to be the sole user o( his invention (or a number o( years. These years have not passed yet, and all who wish to make use o( his invention in the meantime have to purchase the ri)ht to do so (rom ‘r :oulton an accumulation that (ills his treasury with a substantial sum each year. Another example o( a (actory (ound in :irmin)ham is the papier-mâché (actory created by Lord ;lay. Seventy people are employed there to stick sheets o( )rey paper to)ether and subsequently tampin), lacquerin), paintin), and smoothin) them. Amon)st the )oods produced there are snu((boxes, tea trays, door and coach panels, and much more. However, most o( the output is a)ain comprised o( buttons, especially those used in mournin), which are marked by the characteristic black and white stripes or dots, and are either marbled by stamps or by submer)in) them in an especially prepared liquid. The production o( these buttons requires a lar)e application and the turnin) lathe plays a substantial role. I would not know what would become o( :irmin)ham without the turnin) lathe. The thickest pieces produced here consist o( 70 sheets o( paper pressed to)ether so ti)htly that the end result is less thick than a pinky (in)er. As (or the rest, the most considerable merit o( this work is (ound in the beauty o( lacquerin) and paintin). Arabesque and Etruscan decorations

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JOHAN MEERMAN are hi)hly appreciated there. Employees were recently workin) here on a li)ht-yellow arabesque coach panel (or the Empress o( Russia. In this city, one will (urther see the (actory o( iron and copper nails and the (actory o( tin buckles and copper rin)s, which can both be manu(actured here (or such a low price that three pairs o( shoe buckles and twelve dozen rin)s are sold (or a shillin), even thou)h each piece needs to )o throu)h an endless amount o( hands. Then there is the (actory o( )lass stones (or sleeve buttons and the like. Another one produces whips, (or which the machine on which they are plaited, )yratin) around the reed like a wheel, deserves attention. ‘r Wed)wood59 erected a (actory (or En)lish pottery in the north o( Sta((ordshire, which is surrounded (or several miles by lesser manu(acturers in the same branch, but also (actories producin) brickworks and tiles. He deserves the same admiration and attention (or his zeal and )enius as ‘r :oulton. He has not only brou)ht the production o( these )oods to the next level, obtainin) him a most comprehensive trade, but he has also invented other composite materials, which he uses to create works o( art o( every sort in a beauti(ul manner, owin) to his prowess in chemistry and sense o( taste. His vases, modelled a(ter Etruscan vases, althou)h a little bit more sallow than the ori)inals, have )otten him (ar. For that reason he has named his (actory

59 Josiah Wedgwood, 1730-1795. English entrepreneur and potter that founded the Wedgwood company, which still produces fine china today (Reilly).

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Etruria. He pours his composition o( black pottery in proper shapes over lar)e busts with hi)h precision. In )reen or blue and white he replicates all bas-relie(s that he is )iven, as well as inta)lio and cameo rin)s, cachets, portraits en relie(, and many more decorative objects o( the sort. “ne can see entire mantelpieces elevated with the same intricate labour. For his bronze imitations, he has a special composition. In his warehouse in London, one can see all o( this to)ether in one place, except (or the ordinary dinnerware sets, be they yellow or white or more or less unpainted. “ne can surely understand that the manu(acturin) process o( the (ine )oods is kept secret. It is unknown to me whether even the details surroundin) the production o( the ordinary )oods are )iven away. “n my last journey, I was re(used entrance to Etruria as I was a (orei)ner. “n my previous journey I had more luck. :ack then, I was told that the composition o( this ordinary pottery consisted o( nothin) more than clay and crushed (lint, both soaked in water, stirred stron)ly, and ultimately mixed to)ether into one mixture. Followin) this, the rou)her parts are separated (rom the rest by sievin) the mixture three times. Subsequently, the (ire will remove any excess liquid. In this (orm, the mixture then proceeds to the moulds and turnin) lathes to obtain its shape, and (inally to the ovens to obtain its stren)th and enamel. “n the border o( Yorkshire and Derbyshire, one similarly encounters many pottery (actories. In Worcester and Derby speci(ically, one can (ind two (ine ones producin) porcelain. The (ormer, employin) about 100 people, mainly manu(actures blue )oods (or daily use, althou)h (ine

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JOHAN MEERMAN tableware is also made there, both painted as well as )ilded. ;lay and crushed alabaster are the main in)redients o( the substance used to create these items. The (actory in Derby solely serves to produce beauty nothin) but the (inest porcelain, with the (inest (i)ures, and everythin) that can be used as decorations emer)es (rom its doors. ‘oreover, this porcelain is a bri)ht white. She((ield belon)s to the list o( En)lish cities that solely relies on (actories to stay a(loat. However, the local manu(acturers are not the bi))est capitalists. In this city, the oldest and primary sources o( commerce are the cutlers and scissor makers. Steel is both prepared as well as used there. The handles o( the cutlery are made out o( silver, plated silver, wood, horn, ivory, or bone. This last option will cost one two and a hal( shillin)s (or hal( a dozen knives and hal( a dozen (orks. Usin) a kind o( A(rican wood resemblin) maho)any, this price increases to three shillin)s. Inconceivable care and e((ort are required to burnish the blade o( shavin) knives to appropriate standards. Furthermore, one can (ind several (actories o( plated silver and metal buttons here, like in :irmin)ham, as well as (actories o( white and red lead, and, as I have said be(ore, a cotton mill. In Woodstock, many (olks are occupied with the burnishin) o( steel and its processin) into delicately chiselled scissors, watch chains, sword hilts, and all other sorts o( )allantry work, includin) the addition o( diamond-shaped studs. “ne knows the per(ection to which this art has been brou)ht in En)land, and how many )uineas are o(ten spent on acquirin) some o( these (inely chiselled pieces. It is said that

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ENGLAND: PART THREE manu(acturers in Woodstock are (ar more advanced than those in :irmin)ham. In any case, the )oods sold here are in(initely cheaper, especially compared to ‘r :oultons (actory. The manu(acturin) houses o( Woodstock can hardly be called (actories, as the manu(acturin) is mostly done by a (ew people almost livin) door-to-door (rom one another, each workin) (or themselves. A(ter they have (inished a piece, they sell it to the London-based )allantry and steel shops. Remarkable as well are Lord Delavals vitriol pans in Hartley, even thou)h an almost unbearable stench accompanies them. The pans are (illed with rainwater which has been (iltered throu)h the rebut o( coal. Subsequently, the water is mixed with old iron and the mixture is sli)htly heated (or some time. Finally, the mixture is poured into another container, (illed with wooden sticks, a)ainst which the vitriol sticks in )reen crystallised pieces once the water has su((iciently cooled down, which looks very beauti(ul. At this point, nothin) remains to be said except (or the conclusion o( my writin) about En)land by sayin) some thin)s about the cities and the city )overnments. The kin)dom is dotted by lar)e and small cities, not to mention the villa)es. The mutual communication between the cities themselves and between the cities and the capital is (acilitated by the (requently ridin) post wa)ons and the Royal ‘ail. These two services are mostly united, and people and letters are transported over a 100 miles in the span o( 24 hours. With the exception o( a (ew, En)lish cities are open, without city walls, )ates, or other visible de(ence mechanisms.

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The lar)e settlements carry the name o( city and are headed by a mayor. Amon)st these, the mayors o( both London and York carry the title o( Lord alon)side this di)nity as well. The term never lasts (or lon)er than a year and oversi)ht on police and justice matters is entrusted to them. The Aldermen, a kind o( town council, and the ;ommon ;ouncil, or municipal assembly, are those )overnin) on city matters with the mayor. In addition, citizens also have a lar)e in(luence. In the (irst instance, civil disputes are mediated by the ma)istrate, while justices o( the peace are called (or minor trans)ressions o( criminal law. Smaller cities are called borou)hs, as lon) as they have the privile)e o( sendin) members to parliament i( not, they are called towns. Some o( these still belon) to nobility or other notable people, but those that are (ree do not come close to equal le)al ri)hts compared to the cities. ‘ost En)lish cities are spacious, well-paved, and clean. There is not an abundance o( beauti(ul private property, but, on the other hand, there are many splendid public buildin)s. ‘ost o( the latter are built (rom hewn stone. Some, however, consist o( brickwork, unless a stone quarry is so close to the city that the expenses o( makin) bricks transcend those o( hewn/hewin) stone. The windows o( the buildin)s are both smaller in size and in number, compared to the ones in the Dutch Republic, the )lass panes on the other hand are lar)er. “nly inns and similar buildin)s have porte-cochères. There is no shorta)e o( rental coaches or chaises a porteur in lar)er cities. The )rowth spurt that some En)lish cities are currently under)oin) will

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ENGLAND: PART THREE become evident (rom a more detailed description o( some aspects that I will now brie(ly discuss. London is commonly known to be (ive miles lon) and three miles wide, and it contains approximately one million inhabitants. It hosts well over 100 Episcopal parochial churches, and a similar number o( ”resbyterian chapels and all other kinds o( sects. The Thames (lows alon) the entire city in the shape o( an irre)ular S. Three brid)es60 have been built to cross it to the borou)h o( Southwark and the surroundin) streets, roads, and (ields. The merchant ships do not sail hi)her upstream than to the (irst o( these three brid)es, (ound near the Tower o( London, where their masts )roup to)ether to appear as a (orest above the city. The war ships remain twenty miles (urther south, where there is a whar(. The city itsel( lies north o( the Thames and is divided into the “ld ;ity and its suburbs, and Westminster, which lies west o( the “ld ;ity. :oth have their own )overnment, as Southwark does too, and the Hi)h :aili(( o( Westminster (unctions much like the Lord ‘ayor does within the “ld ;ity. The number o( Aldermen in London is twelve and there are two o( the a(orementioned Sheri((s. Like most old cities, London consists o( a collection o( narrow, windin), bad streets, althou)h there are exceptions here and there. :esides the many lar)e and sometimes beauti(ul public buildin)s, o( which I described the most distin)uished earlier, the city looks completely di((erent in

60 Of these three structures, only the Richmond Bridge remains. The London Bridge that Meerman saw was replaced in 1831.

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JOHAN MEERMAN some places due to several lar)e market squares and several recently made chan)es in other parts o( the city. Westminster has been built much more orderly most streets are wide and, where they cross each other, the corners are strai)ht. The streets are (ull o( public buildin)s and the homes o( private people, which are alternated with squares that o(ten showcase statues, ponds, patches o( )rass, and such at their centre. “ne can (ind at least ten o( these squares, each more beauti(ul than the previous. “ne o( these is the ve)etable market o( ;ovent Garden, which is lined with )alleries. I shall not bore my readers with all their names, nor with those o( the mani(old wide streets. St Jamess ”ark, Hyde ”ark, and Green ”ark, which are all connected to one another, make this western part o( the city a rather pleasant place to be. At the end o( the especially deli)ht(ul Hyde ”ark, there are the equally charmin) )ardens o( Kensin)ton. This makes the nei)hbourhood especially attractive (or walkin) and ridin). :esides a )ood pavé, every London street is also (lanked by two pedestrian paths o( smooth pavement, which cannot be appreciated enou)h by pedestrians, especially near the crowd o( carria)es. It is a shame, however, that there is no quay with )ood houses alon) the Thames, as this could have been one o( the )reatest )ems o( London. There is however one street, or rather, a connection o( streets runnin) parallel to the river (or about (our miles. Several descendin) side streets lead to it. The Adelphi, which are a (ew charmin)ly decorated homes, was built by the :rothers Adam. Underneath these homes, an extensive network o( subterranean streets, basements, and depots was built in order to, amon)st other thin)s, (acilitate

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ENGLAND: PART THREE the transport o( )oods (rom the river. :ehind this Adelphi, a sort o( terrace was built, which o((ers an entrancin) view on the Thames. Some buildin)s have similar terraces. There are three thin)s which most stron)ly attract a visitors attention in London. The (irst is the continuous expansion o( this city. ;ompared to twelve years a)o I have (ound a multitude o( new streets and squares. However, I missed the walks and )ardens which I (ondly remembered and which have now been urbanised. “ne cannot walk down any street without (indin) a whole array o( new houses, the last o( which are o(ten still under construction. They are all respectable, decent dwellin)s and, althou)h they are not beauti(ul, they were built in )ood taste. ‘any o( them are equal in appearance and hei)ht. The streets which are (ormed by these houses are also strai)ht and wide. Furthermore, the suburbs stretch across several miles. Villa)es have become as )ood as a part o( London, and one now hears o( ice cream parlours :als and ;omœdien where not lon) a)o people were still churnin) and threshin). Generally, I would dare to claim without exa))eration that the capital o( En)land in these last twelve years has )rown to no less than the size o( The Ha)ue. A reasonable conclusion can be drawn about the )rowth o( En)lands wealth when considerin) the (ollowin) how expensive (ood is there, how much hi)her taxes are there than elsewhere, and how much more expensive it is to build new houses than buyin) old ones. Furthermore, when comparin) London to other )rowin) cities, one can determine that En)lands a)riculture is (lourishin) no less than in the

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JOHAN MEERMAN olden days in such a way that the )rowth o( the head is not at the cost o( the rest o( the body, but )rows alon) with it. Londons terrible vivacity is an inevitable result o( its vastness and dense population, but (or stran)ers it nevertheless remains somethin) so astonishin) that one must have borne witness to it in order to understand the sensation. ’aturally, this vivacity is more apparent in some parts and nei)hbourhoods o( the city, especially in the street runnin) parallel to the Thames, as well as at certain times o( the day and year. “ne can see this side o( London best when walkin) throu)h it in ‘ay between twelve and (ive oclock. There are over 1,000 rental carria)es which are always lined up behind each other with the horses already hitched to them. They are all numbered and under strict orders re)ardin) how much they can char)e (or each distance. :esides these, I say, those that are actually drivin), namely the privately owned equipa)es, the porte-chaises, the little litters, the (our)ons and ridin)-horses, and the unwieldy heavily laden carts with about ei)ht horses put to them, cause such a con(usion, min)lin), and hubbub in combination with the astonishin) amount o( pedestrians, that it makes your eyes water. “ne cannot be understood, and sometimes one is (orced to stand still in a tra((ic jam until some space clears be(ore one can once a)ain move (orward with the (ile. “ne can understand how this must )et worse durin) any extraordinary occasion. A third topic o( amazement is without doubt the stores in this lar)e city, the number o( which exceeds the ima)ination. The opulence o( the merchandise, the pleasant way in which everythin) is placed, usually behind a hal(-round or hal(-

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ENGLAND: PART THREE square window (acin) the street, and the daily illumination o( these at ni)ht, o(t by the new lamp, has an uncommon e((ect.61 London makes ”aris look bad in all three aspects o( )rowth, population density, and the e((ect o( their stores, which are all invisible (rom the outside, (ar (rom London. The smoke o( coal blackens the outside o( the buildin)s, meanin) that even the most beauti(ul (acade, especially when it has been placed in a densely built nei)hbourhood in the city, soon loses its external beauty. ’o more strikin) evidence o( this e((ect can be cited than St ”auls ;athedral. ;onstruction here is mostly done with baked stone, and an incredible amount o( houses are built at that. Some, althou)h not many, are even equipped with )ardens. The police are superb at keepin) the streets clean and well- lit, at respondin) quickly in the case o( a (ire, which, so to speak, happens daily, with people hearin) hardly anythin) about it in other parts o( the city until several hours later (rom the newspaper. They are even )ood at communicatin) about thieves and criminals and their imprisonment. However, despite the number o( both known and unknown o((icers, the prevention o( crime has not come (ar yet. :esides the customs discussed previously, it is incredibly easy to ima)ine how stron) temptation must be in such a )lobal city. The sailors on the Thames are bound by the same rules as those concernin)

61 Footnote by ‘eerman ;oncernin) precious (ashionable knickknacks, jewels, and other such things, the two stores of Jeffery and of Gray are especially outstandin).

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JOHAN MEERMAN the transport o( passen)ers as the coachmen (or hire and the carriers o( litters. ‘ost o( the houses are insured a)ainst (ires or other (orms o( destruction, but, because o( the use o( a (lawed interior desi)n (or a small number o( years, the buildin)s are more prone to collapse there than elsewhere. Daily, the ”enny ”ost brin)s letters to di((erent parts o( the city and its surroundin)s (or a nickel, while others collect letters (rom the houses (or the same price and brin) them to the )eneral post o((ice. A (ine rule, both here and throu)hout the entire kin)dom, is that no corpse can be buried without (irst havin) been examined (or si)ns o( a violent death, in which case the coroner is (etched to conduct a (urther inquiry. Furthermore, I do not have to remind one that a city like London unites everythin) which one could ever hope (or with re)ards to li(es pleasures, (rom utility to entertainment. “ne can acquire everythin), learn everythin). The mind (inds new nourishment daily. From royal courts, stran)e ministers, a parliament, courts o( law, militia, trade, and a harbour which is as )ood as a sea harbour, colle)es o( sciences and arts, all sorts o( reli)ions, all sorts o( pubs, to lack o( work (or no one who wants to work London is a place where everythin) is brou)ht to)ether. “nly the exorbitant (ood prices and the terrible distance between dwellin)s mix displeasure with the a(orementioned pleasures. A(ter havin) spoken already about the ;anterbury ;athedral, there is little le(t to say about the city, except that its rather lar)e, equipped with walls, )ates, and suburbs, yet it is poorly built.

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Dover ;astle lies on a mountain, (rom which one can clearly see ”icardy when the weather is clear. The town itsel( does not count and owes its continued existence solely to the (erry to France. The castle is very old, since Julius ;aesar de(initely built part o( it. It also claims to be very stron) it is doubly surrounded by walls and buildin)s. The )round, which is surrounded by the outer walls, is (i(teen Dutch mor)ens. The castle itsel( contains nothin) other than empty prison cells. Additionally, one will (ind barracks (or soldiers and apartments (or the o((icers and a chapel as well. There is a 24- (eet lon) canon on show, which was )iven to Queen Elizabeth by the city o( Utrecht. The cannon is art(ully cut and can shoot a cannonball as (ar as seven miles. The (irst keys o( the stron)hold and Julius ;aesars ceremonial sword are also there to be admired i( one believes in such thin)s. ”ortsmouth, althou)h not badly and quite orderly built, deserves a mention as a city only because o( its stron) (orti(ications which were built in the new style. Southampton only consists o( one main street, which is wide, beauti(ul, and orderly built. The wall surroundin) this town is built not just with stones, but also with oyster shells. Its location near a lar)e sea-bosom makes Southampton especially suited (or trade and (ishery. Here, one can see a (ew beauti(ul assemblée houses one inside, the other outside the city. The latter is called the ”oly)on. Winchester is o( a medium size, has (airly strai)ht streets and some )ood houses. “ne can see the incomplete palace o( ;harles I, which would have been the lar)est colossus o( its kind. Un(ortunately, only the (irst (loor was (inished. In the

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JOHAN MEERMAN county hall, they show the table whence the Kni)hts o( the Round Table )ot their name. Salisbury is situated in a pleasant vale and is irri)ated by two or three rivers. It is not very bi), but the streets are spacious and run strai)ht, althou)h (ew o( them could be considered pretty. The reasonably lar)e market square, on the other hand, does deserve this praise. Salisbury counts only three parishes and around 8,000 or 9,000 inhabitants. Salisbury is actually a colony o( “ld Sarum. “ld Sarum used to be an important and sizeable city in the olden days, but it has been moved to its current place to cripple the power o( the bishops. ”resently, there is hardly anythin) le(t o( the mother city, except (or a sin)le buildin), and yet it still sends two representatives to ”arliament in memory o( its previous power. Exeter is an old, unpleasant city, althou)h not ill-placed. The Exe, which (lows past it, can only be sailed by small ships. A part o( the wall o( the castle, which is situated on the mountain, is a Roman antiquity. The beauti(ul Assizes House,62 made (rom hewn stones, and a pleasantly shaded promenade in the city deserve a visit. ’eedless to say, one has already been reminded that almost the whole o( Exeter works at the Ser)ei (actory. ”lymouth is o( a medium size and is situated near a small sea-bosom, which is ni)h impossible to sail durin) low tide

62 Assizes were courts that formerly sat at intervals in each county of England and Wales to administer the civil and criminal law. In 1972, the civil jurisdiction of assizes was transferred to the High Court, and the criminal jurisdiction to the Crown Court (EB).

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ENGLAND: PART THREE because o( its shallowness. Its streets are narrow and bad with a wide )utter in the middle, similar to the German style. Devonport is only a mile away (rom town. :ath is one o( the most beauti(ul cities in En)land. I have already spoken o( its mineral water and o( its pleasant location at the (oot o( the )reen mountains which raise up around it. The river Avon touches the city more than it crosses it. There is a lon), beauti(ul brid)e which unites the city side with the other side. :ath can be divided into the lower, or old, and the hi)her, or new, city. The (ormer has narrow, windin) streets and bad houses. Less than 50 years a)o, :aths size was still limited to only a part o( this city. Since then, the demand (or its water has increased. The old city (irst expanded towards the south, be(ore construction was started towards the north, (ollowin) a re)ular plan the streets wide and strai)ht, all houses made o( a (ine yellowish stone, which is (ound in abundance nearby, and alon) the houses a wide and even path made o( slabs. At several points, one can (ind a collection o( houses sharin) a sin)le (acade, or houses built to be as one. From this the :aths ;ircus emer)ed a rondo o( about 30 houses, most bein) three windows wide and three (loors hi)h, barrin) the under)round o((ices. Alon) all the doors there is a (rieze with ele)ant ornaments. Three streets at equal distance (rom each other lead to the ;ircus. “ne o( these leads to the Royal ;rescent a)ain, a collection o( 30 houses shaped like a semicircle, which all look out over the opposite mountains, and the road to :ristol, with the Avon (lowin) alon) below. The houses here are similar to those in the ;ircus, with the house in the middle and those at the ends

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JOHAN MEERMAN surpassin) the others in size. I believe everythin) here is built in the Ionian style. In (ront o( the entire ;rescent there is a circular lawn. The Queen Square is a square place with a (enced-o(( )arden, boastin) a pyramid in honour o( the deceased ”rince o( Wales at the centre. The houses here are built accordin) to di((erent styles the houses on one side comprise a lar)e stately buildin) accordin) to the ;orinthian way o( buildin) in one o( the corners one can see a chapel, whose (acade boasts a portique, supported by (our Ionian columns with a (ronton on top. The South ”arade and ’orth ”arade are two wide promenades on slabs alon) a series o( buildin)s. They both o((er a view o( the adjacent mountains. “ran)e Grove is a square place as well, althou)h it is not surrounded by houses like the others. It has been completely planted with trees and there is an obelisk in the middle in memory o( ”rince William IV who saw his health restored to him throu)h his use o( the waters o( :ath. ‘any other streets and alleys can be seen in :ath, as well as several charmin) public buildin)s. These streets and alleys have all been paved and are remarkable because o( their beauty. The city is still expandin) on a daily basis, mostly uphill, where they are buildin) a new square. ‘oment a(ter moment, one can able to enjoy the most stunnin) views o( the environs and the adjacent mountains almost the entire road to :ristol is as i( dotted with houses. The city is also surrounded by several pleasant )ardens. “ne can only (ind an abbey here, which is incorporated into the :ishop o( :ath and Wells ;athedral and is (ound in the latter place. Amon)st the

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ENGLAND: PART THREE necessary police re)ulations, there is a detailed rule (or the litters, which take the place o( other carria)es here at least, in the upper city they do, since their use would become impossible in many places. For (ive and a hal( pennies one is carried 500 yards and (or eleven pennies one can be carried (rom one end o( the city to the other. :ristol is a lar)e, populous, althou)h badly built tradin) town. It has narrow windin) streets to)ether with unsi)htly houses althou)h several public buildin)s, new streets, and squares must be excluded (rom this. A )ood example o( one o( these exclusions is, amon)st others, a very lar)e quadrilateral square, in the middle o( which the statue equestre o( William III is located. Some streets are very steep. :ristol counts about twenty parish churches. The city is still bein) improved and expanded daily. The Avon (lows ri)ht throu)h the middle o( :ristol. This river sends the merchant vessels moored here, which usually count around 1,000, around the entire world, althou)h especially to the West Indies. A charmin) brid)e crosses this river, which one can never cross without payin) toll, despite it bein) in the middle o( the city. The harbours and the quays are :ristols most prized jewels. Althou)h the river seems narrow, its depth and swellin) at hi)h tide carry the heaviest merchant vessels, not (ar below the city, a second-rate ship-o(-the-line was even built recently. Factories here are no di((erent than the )lass (actories. To the side o( the Hotwells on the hi)h )rounds, there is a trian)ular square which is over)rown with trees. The ;athedral and a (ew other churches or chapels, amon)st which is the one whose service the ‘ayor (requents with some parade, lead to this square.

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The road to Hotwells is a lon) street o( rou)hly a mile lon). The location o( these sprin)s I have described previously. There are many houses near it, at di((erent hei)hts o( the mountain, althou)h nothin) spectacular. ’ear the house at the sprin), a small colonnade is currently bein) erected. The nearness o( the city makes people need to resort to it in many respects. Here(ord and Worcester are both nice, happy, little towns with some )ood public buildin)s and other buildin)s. The latter consist mostly o( one broad main street o( a mile lon). Last year, Here(ord ;athedral collapsed (or a lar)e part on the second day o( Easter. :irmin)ham, whose most prominent buildin)s and woven (abrics I have already described separately, o((ers pleasant work to 70,000 pairs o( hands, as it is about this amount to whom :irmin)hams (actories provide livelihood. As o( a (ew years a)o, the city has increased in the most incomprehensible way daily, new streets (orm and new buildin)s arise it is teemin) with )ardens and mansions all around. Recently, a new chapel was erected a)ain. ‘ost streets, especially the most recently lain, are very broad. However, all houses are made o( bricks and there is no paved pedestrian path, which has not been introduced in many parts o( En)land. The ’ew Street, where the )rammar school and the theatre are, is one o( the most prominent. The city is mountainous the lowest portion has the lon)est history, and is consequently also not the prettiest. The location where the castle was be(ore is still noticeable because o( the round moat encirclin) it. The moat is now used by the (actories, which

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ENGLAND: PART THREE o((er more to a land o( (reedom than keeps do. A little outside o( :irmin)ham there is a nice hospital. :esides the impressive )raveyard o( the ’ew ;hurch, there is another small, charmin) square in this city. The shippin) industry on the channel allows :irmin)ham to be a lively city and it eases the movement o( )oods. It would have been more use(ul, however, i( it had not been made so narrow. The Irwell divides ‘anchester, as the Thames divides London, into two unequal parts. The part across the river, which is brid)ed by two stone brid)es and one wooden brid)e, is more o( a suburb, and consists mostly o( one lon) street. ‘anchester proper is built much hi)her, and partially located on rocks. There are some old, narrow streets within the centre, but on the outskirts o( the city they are much wider. The old church has an impressive )raveyard two new churches are charmin) (rom the outside and (itted with beauti(ul towers. The merchants (air is carried on two sides by (our pillars and (aces the ve)etable market on one side, and a rectan)ular square on the other side, at the end o( which is another church. Additionally, there are a (ew other squares. The city is expanded daily and beauti(ul streets and houses are added, althou)h the latter are all made o( bricks and alternate brown and white stones. The arrival (rom the direction o( :irmin)ham is very winsome. “n ones ri)ht-hand side, one can see new buildin)s, and on the le(t side one passes a lar)e hospital, with a lunatic asylum next to it. A path leads to them (rom the street and they have an iron )ate and a pond in (ront o( them. The public baths are next to the hospital, and the entrance to a )arden, which is open to the public, lies between

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JOHAN MEERMAN them. The )arden then continues behind the hospital. A collection o( )ardens and summer homes can be (ound surroundin) the city, some even at quite a distance (rom it. The (actories brin) li(e and wealth to ‘anchester and its surroundin) and the merchants there have )ained the well- deserved (ame o( bein) the most civilised and capable o( the kin)dom. In the last 40 years or so, ‘anchester has increased more than hal( in size, and, as I was tau)ht (or over thirteen years, a second theatre was already bein) built back then. Liverpool is built down the side o( a mountain, next to the river ‘ersey at the part where it reaches the sea and has thus achieved a considerable size. The environs o( the city on this side o( the river do not amount to much, but on the other side they are more pleasant. Liverpool is o( a medium size and has )rown considerably several years a)o, but, as o( recently, not quite as stron)ly as the cities I have just described. ;urrently, it is bein) improved (rom within, which is necessary at several places due to the narrowness o( the streets. For instance, a lar)e square is bein) created across (rom the exchan)e, as well as a strai)ht, broad street leadin) to it, both accordin) to a plan which was drawn up (or it. I have already described the most prominent buildin)s o( the city be(ore. The houses are all made o( bricks. The newer streets are more spacious than the older ones, and there are also some squares, one o( which is decorated at its centre with an obelisk. The harbours and quays, which are (ull o( ships, enliven the lowest part o( the city considerably. Factories are not present here at all. The trade mostly )oes to the West Indies and the idea o( trade, in an exclusionary sense, (ills the minds o( all its citizens. In the

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ENGLAND: PART THREE vicinity o( the docks, there is a small (ort, some public baths, and a path. Above the city, there is the Ladies Walk, which is just a strai)ht path, but o((ers a view o( the entirety o( Liverpool. :ehind it is a quarry, and not (ar (rom that, just outside the city, a very lar)e workhouse and detention centre. This merchant city actually contains three docks in which the ships are per(ectly sa(e. Two entrances provide access to these docks. The quays are (illed with both warehouses and houses, which makes the delivery o( )oods to the (ront doors o( the merchants possible. Dependin) on the pre(erence, the water is let in or out with the help o( sluices. The quays and the drawbrid)es placed here and there, make this part o( the city look somewhat like Rotterdam. “(ten one can count up to 500 ships at one time in these docks. Furthermore, the location o( Liverpool near the Irish Sea makes it, aside (rom (orei)n trade, also especially suitable (or trade with that kin)dom. It is even more suitable when considerin) that the ‘ersey also lends itsel( very well (or inland trade it can be sailed (or 25 miles upriver, where it is connected to other En)lish canals. The old part o( ;hester is near the Dee additionally, there is a canal here which leads to ’antwich. Surroundin) the city, there is a wall made o( square stones, althou)h the streets lead beyond this wall. “ne can walk around on the wall on an easy pavé, between two parapets which are low enou)h to not obstruct the view. This wall stretches over )or)eous arches on two sides o( the city on the other two sides it crosses over )ates. There are one or two towers on these walls. There is nothin) particularly noticeable about the ;athedral besides its a)e. The chapter house is rectan)ular with a poor library.

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Additionally, there is a )ood bishops house, and a Town Hall, which rests on pillars, like many such buildin)s in En)land. Under these pillars, merchants meet to do business. :esides that, a (ew markets and squares can be (ound, one o( which has a patch o( )rass and an obelisk at its centre. Elsewhere, a new row o( houses is bein) constructed. Furthermore, ;hester also consists o( two main streets which cross each other, and a (ew less important side streets. The buildin)s o( the (irst do not amount to much. The arcades here, however, are stran)e they are not at street level, like in :ern and Turin where they are situated underneath the (irst (loor o( houses. In ;hester, they almost )o throu)h the buildin)s and up several stairs. The shops (ace these corridors (rom the side o( the houses. Two or three times a year, there are tables and stalls with )oods where the arcade opens to the street, around ;hristmas time at least. Some houses do not have these arcades and several streets lack them entirely, meanin) that one is then (orced to )o down the stairs. In some places the arcades are also at street level. :eneath the hi)her arcades one can see shops, basements, and storerooms. I have already spoken o( the (abric market. The castle is as old as the wall. It consists o( a (orecourt, to which one is led throu)h a )ate, and o( the keep itsel(, which has a second )ate and a drawbrid)e. The same wall surrounds both the (orecourt and the keep, althou)h these are separated (rom within by another wall. In the (orecourt, the prison o( the county and the courthouse are located. There are houses and an armoury in the castle itsel(, and, around those, the (orti(ications, some o( which have collapsed not very lon) a)o.

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“ther public buildin)s in ;hester I shall pass by silently. The city is mostly located on a plain, but it is sli)htly elevated on one side. :erwick-upon-Tweed is an En)lish city, althou)h it is mostly located on Scottish soil, and it is equipped with walls and )ates. “ne can (ind several )ood buildin)s, amon)st which a beauti(ul city hall, althou)h it is marred by a mistake in its symmetry. A lon) brid)e crosses the river and on the other side a castle and a suburb can be seen. ’ewcastle upon Tyne is a (airly lar)e, unusually populous and mountainous city, althou)h it is poorly and, (or the most part, narrowly built. In some places, the city is bein) widened and beauti(ied, and in the direction o( Tynemouth there are a (ew wide and )ood clusters o( streets. The quays next to the river are very rich in business and people. I have already said somethin) about the brid)e and some prominent buildin)s in this city. “ne can still see the occasional wall, )ates, and the lar)e square castle, all made o( the same stone, althou)h they were erected later than the )ate which still remains o( the Hadrians Wall. The main branches o( trade in ’ewcastle are coals, (lax, and )lass. The ships )o downstream (or about ten miles, and then arrive at the sea between two badly built, but very populous cities ’orth Shields and South Shields. Here, prominent merchants have settled. The river is always (illed with ships, especially at its mouth between the Shields. The suburb across (rom ’ewcastle is not very si)ni(icant. Durham lies in a deep round valley. The city itsel( is sli)htly hi)her than its suburbs and is almost completely surrounded by a river. There are about three brid)es connectin) it to its

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JOHAN MEERMAN lower suburbs, althou)h later, these suburbs )o partially uphill. The view (rom the hi)hest parts o( the city is o( the river and the adjacent mountains and has a deli)ht(ul e((ect. There is a very pleasant path in the shade alon) the river. “therwise, besides a cathedral which I have already described and the vast bishops palace next to it, there are (ew remarkable public or private buildin)s. The market is a spacious square. The city does not really (lourish and there are many poor people. This is mostly because all the surroundin) lands are in the hands o( the cler)y, who spend most o( its pro(its outside o( Durham. York is a city o( avera)e size, equipped with )ates and walls one o( the latter is considered to have ori)inated in Roman times. The River “use splits York into two unequal parts, which are connected a)ain by a )ood brid)e. Alon) one side o( the river there is a path with a (ew rows o( trees. York is characterised by many old churches, (ew )ood houses, almost no wide streets, and about three open markets. There is not a lot o( trade, and the city maintains itsel( almost entirely throu)h the crowd o( decent (olk. This (olk )oes to spend their money there durin) the yearly races, at the time o( the assizes, and in winter. The palace o( the archbishop, built in the new Gothic trend, is not in the city, but about three miles outside o( it. Another curiosity about York is a tower on a mountain, which is )enerally considered to be o( Roman ori)in and is hollow on the inside. Scarborou)h lies on the promontory o( a mountain which ends at the ed)e o( the sea and (orms a cape. The church is situated on the mountain and the castle is located even hi)her

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ENGLAND: PART THREE on a rock. In earlier days, it must have been very stron), but now it is little more than a pile o( ruins. The city has )ood brick homes, wide streets, and many inhabitants. Leeds and Wake(ield are two pleasant, populous, and well- built places. They mostly (lourish because o( the trade in (abrics and have )rown quite a lot over time. The (irst consists mostly o( one lon), wide, street which )oes downhill. The other is made up o( three wide streets next to each other, with the church and the market in the middle. She((ield lies a)ainst the slope o( some mountains, and at its (oot two rivers meet. It has about 30,000 inhabitants, who all make a livin) by producin) She((ields woven (abrics. The city belon)s almost entirely to the Duke o( ’or(olk. The streets are o( little si)ni(icance, except (or a (ew which were built recently. The new church, a (ew other public buildin)s, and a butchers hall, which is bein) built on pillars next to a )ood market, stand out somewhat (rom the rest, but cannot be considered masterpieces. Kin)ston upon Hull is a place o( )reat trade the harbour is (ull o( ships. In the castle, one can (ind the homes o( the o((icers who are stationed here, as well as the prisons. In other aspects, the city does not excel in size, nor in beauty. :everley is a trade town as well, but is better built and lar)er than Kin)ston upon Hull. “ne can (ind a beauti(ul market and a market hall which rests on six pillars. I have already spoken o( the beauti(ul church there. ’ottin)ham, a vast and well-built city, has a market as well. This market can be counted as one o( the most splendid o( its kind. It is surrounded with beauti(ul houses, which all come

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JOHAN MEERMAN equipped with portiques. A lar)e and )ood city hall can be (ound at its end. “ne can also see a beauti(ul courthouse. The castle, which is inhabited by the Duke o( ’ewcastle, shows itsel( at a hei)ht. Derby is situated on the Derwent and is o( reasonable size. It has some )ood streets, a considerable market, and several beauti(ul public and private buildin)s. It does not, however, have a lively appearance. ;oventry is around the same size as Derby, equally well- built, and more populous apparently. The characterisin) (eatures o( some cities, which are based on old traditions, are ridiculous. In earlier centuries, a certain Lady Godiva, patroness o( ;oventry, could only o((er the citizens o( ;oventry a reprieve o( a heavy tax i( she rode a horse naked throu)h the city. This stipulation was imposed on her by a tyrannous and whimsical )eneral. When this happened, all the citizens had the discretion to avert their eyes (rom her exposed body out o( reco)nition (or her sacri(ice. A tailor, called Thomas, was the only one shameless enou)h to re(rain (rom this. I do not know which punishment be(ell him (or that, but a da(t wooden (i)ure called ”eepin) Tom63 is still in that same window throu)h which the actual Thomas peeped on Lady Godivas stran)e ride. Warwick is small, thou)h enclosed by walls and )ates, which is not a rarity in En)land. It does not have more than a

63 Footnote by ‘eerman There is also a comedy o( the same name, which owes its ori)in to the same story, i( I am not mistaken.

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(ew main streets. I have already expanded on the buildin)s earlier. A(ter what I have said o( its university, colle)es, and buildin)s, there is little more to say about “x(ord as a city. There are only two or three main streets, althou)h they are very wide, lon), and cross each other. The private houses alon) these streets are (airly decent, althou)h poor and bad in another part o( town. ’orwich is very lar)e, althou)h closely built and paved. The market square however, must be exempted (rom this, as it )oes up the mountain. The castle is very old, and is at a hei)ht so it oversees the city. Four stron) walls surround the inner square and prisoners are kept there. The city counts 35 parishes in its surroundin)s. The hospital, shaped like an H, is a )ood buildin) and serves the whole o( ’or(olk. “utside the city, a public path has been constructed which is called the Wilderness. It consists o( a (orest o( ever)reens a)ainst a steep mountain, with a very hi)h tower and a hall o( companionship inside. :ury is a very neat place with nice houses, two market squares, and a pedestrian path on both sides o( the streets. Lincoln lies partly on a very hi)h mountain and partly at its base. The way up is very steep. The city is not particularly clean, but it has a (ew )ood houses. The meat hall consists o( a square hallway with another square in the middle, and lo)es on both sides. In these lod)es, butchers are set up accordin) to their number. In the (ront, one can see the slau)hterhouse, and in (ront o( the entire hall there is an iron (ence, which is only opened on market days. The castle is an old, hi)h

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JOHAN MEERMAN buildin) on a mountain, with several towers at its sides. This is where the prisons are and the assizes are held. “ne can also (ind remains o( Roman brickwork on the walls and even an entire )ate which was built by this conquerin) people.

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Fig. 11: Map of Scotland, marked with places Meerman mentions in this chapter

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From the southern part of Great Britain, I travel north. Here, I will briefly, while travelling, sketch an image of this kingdom, which is entirely and closely related to England, yet vastly different from it in countless ways. It is a kingdom despised and treated so unfairly by its southern sister state; a kingdom trying to do everything in its power to wrestle away from the souths tawdry and undeserved scorn and yet, a kin)dom that, with increasing success, withstands its southern oppressors, even though they are endlessly more favoured by both nature and government. It is a three-hour journey across the sea to travel from Ireland to Scotland. One boards a ship in Donaghadee and disembarks in a Scottish port called Portpatrick. Here, the entire coast, as far as the eye can see, is cliff-like, and the vessels berthing at this rather insignificant town must take shelter in a hollowed-out cove between two rocks. The road from Portpatrick to Glasgow, which offers a mediocre amount of post-horses for at least the first half of the way, first crosses over a peninsula composed of bare mountains before running through the town of Stranraer and then continuously onwards along the coast. The towns along the way are of little significance, but, apart from merely displaying poverty, both these towns and their inhabitants also add a sense of decency. The road is in better condition in some places than others, yet it is of the utmost importance to the region. First, one must withstand an unpleasant journey of an hour and a half, because upon leaving Stranraer there is nothing but sea on the left side of the road and large, rugged mountains and cliffs on the right. After some time, the

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JOHAN MEERMAN scenery changes. One begins to ascend the cliff along a road, which was built almost above the sea with great effort and cost. In several places, as I described previously in Wales, the road is carved into the cliff. A bay and the Irish Sea can be seen from here, in the depths far below. After a while, one leaves this view behind and enters a narrow valley located between two high mountain ridges through which a small river flows. At the end of the valley, one must climb another rising ridge from which the sea can be seen once more, and it will not leave ones si)ht a)ain. The road is sandy at times and at other times it is rocky; at times, one rides through valleys, and at others one rides through the icy mountains, or along the coast, which, because of its singular form as well its location, is made up of rocks and cliffs. It shows the evidence of the worst natural upheaval, destruction, and shattered rocks from past centuries. One can find stones with the most beautiful colours. A lot of them are granite and, if I am not mistaken, porphyry. Along a large part of the road, and many miles offshore, the island Ailsa Craig can be seen: five kilometres high and fifteen kilometres in circumference. It is full of wildlife, which is the reason it is leased for fifteen pounds sterling per year. Otherwise, the island is uninhabited and even dangerous to climb. Beyond Girvan, one loses sight of the sea again. Fertile and inhabited valleys begin to replace the barren regions one travelled through before. Ayr is quite an extensive harbour town and is rich in commerce. Kilmarnock, the following town, is poorly constructed but flourishes due to several factories, in particular Scottish carpet factories. On the

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SCOTLAND outskirts of the town, one can make out the little houses intended for the factory workers, all of them side by side and similar in size and height. The architectural style in the little Scottish towns is vastly different from the style used in England. Most of the houses are square blocks built with rough stones featuring very small windows and their appearance is not cheerful by any means.64 The streets are, for the most part, narrow and densely built. But Glasgow, not only one of the most beautiful cities in Great Britain, but also in Europe, distinguishes itself greatly from the other towns in this part of the kingdom. Before giving more information on Glasgow, I will briefly talk about the route from here to Carlisle, a town in England, which I travelled to on my first journey. The first object of interest on this route is Hamilton House, which is the property of the Duke who bears the same name. It is located in a pleasant valley. The castle consists of a corps de logis and two protruding wings, which include a very large hall, rather elegant rooms, but above all, a very beautiful and sizable collection of paintings. The whole building is filled with them and only a few are bad pieces; one of the most pleasant works, painted by Peter Paul Rubens, represents Daniel in the lions den. The figures are about life-sized and the prophet is depicted as being in the midst of prayer, while the lions rage around him on all sides.

64 Footnote by ‘eerman Further towards Edinburgh, it was common that the houses that were used as stores, especially bakeries and pubs, would paint the lower level white or yellow and indicate in semi- recognisable shapes what )oods were sold in these establishments.

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The region between Lanark, which is not far from Hamilton House, and Moffat is as barren and desolate as one could possibly imagine. Uncultivated mountains produce nothing but sheep pastures; there are no certain paths, and apart from a hut here and there, built by the natives with some rocks and turf, there are no villages. The natives are half-naked and they protect their heads and bodies against the rain or cold with some sort of cloak without sleeves, but with a cap. Taking in all of this induces a sense of melancholy that makes one appreciate the privileges of living in cultivated provinces that are more prosperous and blessed. Past Moffat, a friendly little spa town with a mineral resource close to it, the mood in the area eases once again and one is taken along several oat fields. Dumfries is a rather large town with a few good houses, and Annan is the last town on this side of Scotland. Not far from it, a small river which runs below a long bridge, flows into the Solway Firth and forms the border between this kingdom and England. But I shall return to describing Glasgow. Glasgow lies in the pleasant lowlands on the east side of the Clyde. The River Clyde originates miles higher and forms several remarkable waterfalls before it sprays the city walls of Glasgow and Dumbarton. After that, it flows into a bay called the Firth of Clyde, which in turn flows into the Irish Sea. Two bridges, which cross the substantial width of the river that has accumulated at this point, link Glasgow with a little village on the opposite side. One of these bridges, the Glasgow Bridge, has the most beautiful and elegant architecture: the railing is carved in such a way that it looks like lace, and round

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SCOTLAND openings, stretching the entire width of the bridge, appear between each of the graceful arches. The other bridge, Stockwell Bridge, although less beautiful, is not in the least objectionable. Glas)ows main street, called Argyle Street, runs parallel to the river. The street is long, broad, and magnificent, lined with beautiful houses, with three or four storeys, each designated for either working or living. In several places, these houses have colonnades and, now and again, the street features proper footpaths. The following are some of the principal buildings on the street. The Exchange, which is nothing more than a broad gallery under a fine building, was founded by a society by way of a tontine.65 The Exchange functions as a guest house, an assembly room, and a coffee house. The quarters are neat, but not beautiful. The coffee room is the most impressive of all: it was built and decorated in excellent taste. Next to this building, on the corner of the street, stands the prison, which functions as a town hall at the same time. It is a tall building and a statue of William III on horseback stands in front of it. The statue was not erected in the middle of the road, but instead right next to it, which does the statue no favour at all. Extending outward from Argyle Street, several other streets depart in opposite directions from one another. The street leading up to the university intersects Argyle Street completely and is also considerably long. On the other side of

65 Investment plan popular at the time. Each subscriber pays an agreed sum into a fund and thereafter receives an annuity. As members die, their shares devolve to the other participants. Thus, the value of each annuity increases (OED).

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JOHAN MEERMAN the river, the street runs quite far and up the hill, as do all the streets on this side. The other streets are smaller; some are completely new with delightful little houses made of a beautiful whitish stone. That stone was excavated near Glasgow and all of these houses were built with it, and almost all houses were built in the same style: twin houses, each separated from the next by a narrow archway and as such independent from one another. Some arches have nice decorations and vases on top. In other places, all houses seem to be part of the same building, and yet in others, the houses seem to stretch the entire length of the street. Of the streets that run towards the river, two wind towards either one of the bridges, and one ends at a church with a very delicate steeple. Not far from the Clyde, the Church of St Andrews lies in an outstretched field enclosed by a tall and beautiful fence. The building is elongated with a fair gallery with a few steps up at the front side and a lovely tower up top. The inside is heavily decorated, with the pulpit above the main entrance and another gallery along the walls. Altars as well as organs are not tolerated in the Presbyterian Church, which is the predominant church in Scotland. Other sacred buildings in Glasgow, and particularly the main church, look more like stables than places of worship, and some of them have even been divided into two or three parts, including subterranean parts. This custom, as well as the disgraceful appearance of most of the old churches, can be found throughout Scotland. Another one of these local customs is to have two sermons delivered back to back, as if given in one breath, by the same teaching elder and only separated by singing and prayer. The

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SCOTLAND first one is called a lecture: a significant explanation of several consecutive verses in the Holy Scriptures meant mainly for the less knowledgeable. The second one is the actual sermon and is more like an argument for a truth extracted from scripture. Some teaching elders even treat the same text in this manner for both the lecture and the sermon. Others still treat the first verses of a text in the lecture and the next verses during the sermon in a similar style. However, in some places this curious practice has become outdated. Glasgow also offers a proper quay along the river. A hospital stands near here because of the proximity to the quay, and on the eastern side there is a walkway that partly passes by the River Clyde and partly wraps around an outstretched field. The university in this city is not modelled according to the English design but rather according to German and Dutch ones. The number of students is estimated at 500. They have no special dress code and they live spread out across the city. All thirteen professors, however, live in moderate houses in the university together with their chancellor, who holds office for life. The university, built in Gothic style, has several courtyards, and an outstretched garden. The library consists of one elongated hall with a wraparound gallery at the top. When I visited this library, during both my trips, I was unlucky enough to find neither the librarian nor the keys for the bookcases that hold the books on site. However, I discovered by simply peering through the bars that they hold valuable works, which have been arranged according to size and, as such, are completely mixed together. An

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JOHAN MEERMAN alphabetically arranged index, however, indicates the case and shelf on which a book is stored. In a small room underneath the library, the university stores a couple of undamaged Roman altars and inscriptions, which were found not far from Glasgow durin) the time when Hadrians Wall divided Scotland along its width from the Firth of Forth to the Firth of Clyde. In the past, the university tried to maintain a collection of paintings for the use of an art school, but, if I am not mistaken, this collection has been gone for a couple of years. The professors of the university have always been acclaimed for their expertise and, even now, renowned men can be found amongst them. Recently, the ageing Dr Thomas Reid, Professor in Philosophy, honoured Glasgow and his country with his Essays on the Intellectual Powers of Man. The printing press, which has always produced works of such excellent condition, is not out of business yet. Recently, they printed the poems of Alexander Pope, divided over three folios with typographical beauty. They are working in the same manner on other English poets, ultimately consisting of 50 folios. It is a project which, in my opinion, has more to do with ostentation than usefulness. The city is growing inexplicably fast in every sense and they improve it as much as the English would their cities: it only costs a moderate amount to establish a new home here. It is estimated that there are over 40,000 residents. Many factories have been built; when disregarding glass and carpets, there are mostly factories related to clothing, such as cotton, muslin, and so forth. The neighbouring town, Paisley,

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SCOTLAND which I have neglected to visit, also consists of similar factories, most notably the gauze factories, and enjoys flourishing prosperity from them. Only small boats can sail up to the lowest bridge that crosses the river in Glasgow: the bigger ones have to moor at the mouth of the Clyde in Port Glasgow. The trade carried on with North America is avid here. Since the last few years, a comedy spectacle takes place here during the three winter months. The commoners would previously not have had the patience for this at all. Perhaps the town was wiser then than now, when it was still focused on trade and factories, dedicated to the sciences, and shied away from the spectacles. However, I would rather leave that up to someone elses discretion. The clothing worn by Glasgows residents is an outlandish combination of the style from the mountain ranges and the one from the valleys of Scotland. This mix can even be worn by the same person, so that one may wear a piece of the one tradition and a piece of the other tradition at the same time. It is thus possible to spot a gentleman wearing the clothes of the country, but with a shorter ulster coat made of plaid or other (abric, which belon)s more amon)st the womens dress. Generally speaking, the women here have very plain clothing, like in the rest of Scotland, and they wear a white cap on their heads. The girls, of course, wear their hair down, with just one hair pin to fasten it at the back of their heads. Many of them, who are dressed in quite orderly fashion, go barefoot for most parts of the year, as the children do. The ones that go

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JOHAN MEERMAN to England as maidservants have the most difficult time getting used to socks and shoes. The mountain ranges that cover the northern and almost largest part of Scotland begin not far north from Glasgow. They are called the Highlands. Only the east coast of Great Britain is excluded from the Highlands in its entirety, though it is certainly not for lack of mountains of considerable height. However, one only has to check the west coast on a map to see the evidence of the bloodcurdling cliffs that arise here and the earthquakes that must have created this area. The cliffs look like a serrated blade, as if the whole area was violently ripped away. It all probably used to form one land with the western island and Ireland. When one is planning to tour the mountains, it is wise to schedule about six weeks for this and one should hire a carriage and horses for the duration of the trip. And even though further north of Glasgow post-horses will not be found any more, the roads are fairly good for the most part, contrary to what the lack of post-horses would suggest. An uproar led by the Highland Scots in 1745 gave rise to the improvement of the roads. Tolerable lodges have been built since then as well. The road from Glasgow to Dumbarton runs through well- cropped regions. The River Clyde is on the left side at all times: first of moderate but later of outstanding size and sometimes meandering. Close to Dumbarton, higher cliffs can already be seen on the right side. Along the way, one passes through a small town with a nail factory, amongst others. Dumbarton is located on a smaller river, the River Leven, which flows into the River Clyde. It has a bridge and a glass

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SCOTLAND factory. But the most remarkable thing about Dumbarton is its castle, which is founded on a large isolated rock mass in the corner where the two rivers meet. The rock mass is about 400 feet high and divided into two spires: the first, which is lower than the second, is merely a bare cliff and home to rabbits; the second spire has enough grass to feed ten sheep. Between the two is a )unners cabin. Here and there a painters house can be (ound, and the commanders house is almost at the very bottom. There are 50 men stationed here, who are never relieved, and also twenty guns and as much housing as is usual for a fortress. There is plenty of fresh water up there as well. One first has to climb the lower peak, by going up about 200 steps. Some of these steps are between two high rock faces, which were blown up with gunpowder during the reign of Queen Anne. It is said that each step cost a guinea to construct. The rock mass is one of the most formidable rock formations. The wide view from up top includes the sea, Loch Lomond, the whole of the Clyde and the River Leven, Dumbarton and a few other towns, and a pleasant valley. The entrance to the valley is located at the back of the castle, through a gate positioned a little upwards on the rock. As soon as one leaves Dumbarton, one starts climbing through the proper Highlands. After a few miles, one encounters a very important factory owned by the three Stirling brothers in Glasgow. In this factory, cotton and linen as well as a combination of both are bleached, dyed, and printed after it has been woven in the countryside. It employs about 500 people, some of whom earn up to 36 shillings every day. Several women and children work there as well. A giant

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JOHAN MEERMAN waterwheel, which can be raised with a helix screw when the little stream surges during high tide, also moves several other wheels. A few of these wheels are intended for the hammering of the linen that is to be bleached; others are used to roll the already bleached, partly dyed, and printed linen around a cylinder with a hot iron in the middle to have it dried; and others serve additional purposes. The bleaching and dyeing is done in giant kettles. Dyeing happens after printing, as it will give the pattern the right colours to begin with. The printing requires the most hands: several rooms are designated for this purpose with many people crowding them. The patterns, however, are not of the best taste. After being printed, the fabric undergoes the process of pencilling, for which another couple of rooms have been reserved in which girls work to fill in the parts that were missed by the printing press. Some pieces, such as larger coverlets, require all sorts of techniques and very capable hands. Others are printed with brass plates, much in the same way as illustrations are sometimes printed. A few rooms are reserved for the chiselling of the wooden plates and the engraving of the brass plates. It is most disagreeable that the fires kept in all rooms and halls contribute to an almost unbearable stench, which, when combined with the smell of the colouring, takes away the pleasure of exploring the factory. All the fields around the factory are covered in bleached linen, which, from a distance, gives the impression of snowy meadows. Loch Lomond begins a little north of this factory. It is one of the most picturesque inland lakes imaginable. The first view of the lake can be seen from the River Leven, which also

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SCOTLAND happens to originate from it. This view, however, misleadingly shows the lake only as a considerable river. It grows in size to six or seven miles wide and it has 28 islands: big and small, high and low, overgrown and barren, and of various shapes. During winter, some of the islands disappear when the water rises. The lake barely ever freezes over. From here, one continues to ride on the left side of the lake, sometimes very close, sometimes a little farther away, at least so far that the trees hide the view of it. Here and there, there is a country estate, one of which is on a peninsula halfway on the lake. It is a fine building. Along a large part of the way, one will find the most beautiful parks and colourful trees one could ever wish for. Amongst other sorts, there are rowan trees so tall and of such vast circumference that they are unlike anything I have seen before. The mountains across the lake are similarly overgrown. Soon after Luss, a small town the size of about a third of the lake, the surroundings begin to change. The lake starts to narrow once more. At the end, it is less than a mile wide, meandering and without islands. The road, which was level before, now runs along considerable heights so that Loch Lomond can been seen in the depth. The mountains that enclose the lake on either side rise up. The Ben Lomond, one o( Scotlands hi)hest mountains,66 visible to travellers from the very start of the lake, stretches out for several miles across it, and often hides its head in the clouds. If I had had more

66 Meerman is mistaken here. Ben Lomond is not one of Scotland highest mountains and coincidentally does not make it into the top ten.

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JOHAN MEERMAN time or the weather had been better, I would have climbed the mountain. The view would doubtlessly have been unparalleled. The largest part of the lake, with all its islands, is located behind the mountains of Luss, and it unfolds like a map. The view one experiences when walking up part of the mountain or all the way to the top is already extraordinary. I stopped following Loch Lomond after the Tarbet Inn, which is completely isolated and after which the lake stretches out for another nine miles, all the while narrowing down. The entire length of the lake is 24 miles. Near the end, a small river flowing down from the mountains discharges into it. A narrow road through the mountains, which are covered with nothing more than sheep pastures, first leads travellers from Tarbet to the cape of Loch Long: a long and narrow inlet that is connected to the Firth of Clyde. After rounding this cape, one finds oneself on a similar road with a little river on the left side. One is ascending the entire time. Sometimes the road runs between two low-hanging rock faces, sometimes it winds around so much that it seems like there is no way out. That is the case until the peaks of the mountains between which one has so long travelled emerge. The last part is extraordinarily steep and had the road not been constructed so windingly, the horses would have been unable to pull a carriage up to the top. At the top, there is a plaque that reads Rest and be thank(ul. It also lists the name of the regiment that built this precious road and two dates: 1745, when the road was first constructed, and 1768, when it was renewed. Such inscriptions appear here and there around the region, all praising the servicemen who, in

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SCOTLAND the uproar I talked about before, were used to effectuate this useful and valuable work on the roads. From a small lake, which is situated at the top of this mountain, a small river runs to the other side and will eventually flow into Loch Fyne. Three valleys start at this point as well: one towards Tarbet, the other to Loch Fyne, and the third one goes somewhere else. I followed the valley to Loch Fyne and discovered that the cape of this bay is similar to the one of Loch Long: that is, it is a long inlet between two mountain ridges similarly connected to the Firth of Clyde. There were only a few houses between Tarbet and this cape, and those were little more than miserable huts. But at the cape, the signs of prosperity begin to show again. The banks of the lake are filled with plants, and a sort of country estate at the cape becomes visible. Furthermore, the lake is filled with herring boats, since there is a fishery for which the area is well known. The fishermen go out daily and, if they are lucky, catch up to 500 fish, which they bring ashore at once. They are paid around ten shillings per 100 fish, if I remember correctly. The fish are consumed when they are fresh, either boiled or fried because the practice of salting fish is not known around here. When prepared in this manner, the fish are fine and tasty, but a little too greasy. A few miles from this cape, on the right side of the lake, another bay curves out in the shape of a long half-round bowl, born from higher overlying streams, and mixing in with Loch

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Fyne. The bay is called Loch Dow.67 The castle of the Duke of Argyll, all the buildings belonging to it, and the town of Inveraray stand on the other side of this body of water. It is hard to imagine a more beautiful amphitheatre than the one created here by these mountains decorated with the blossoming trees and artistic objects. One must ride along the bay before passing the castle to get to the town. Along the way, there are two beautiful bridges: one that crosses the river that flows from above and one that crosses over a stream that (lows strai)ht throu)h the dukes )rounds be(ore emptying out into the lake. These bridges, as well as the entire town, were built by that noblemen; the old town of Inveraray was originally situated much closer to the castle than it is now. The town, even though it has been built like any other, is much smaller. The castle is a fair, square building. There is a large tower, or a dome in that shape, up top, featuring Gothic windows and smaller towers on the four corners. The offices are located on the ground floor. On the inside, where the stairs end, the front of the house is very extensive. Daylight enters the front of the house through the upper dome. A wrap-around gallery is located between the upper chambers and the dome. The halls downstairs are big and elegant, especially the dining hall with arabesque decorations and the ceiling of a yet to be finished room that has been decorated in the same special manner.

67 The only Loch Dow currently found in Scotland is located too far away to be the one Meerman refers to. There is a bay in Loch Fyne, which must be the one he is describing here, but it does not appear to have a name of its own any longer and is simply a part of Loch Fyne.

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There are a few mantelpieces of beautiful native marble and other ornaments in the castle that deserve attention as well. The castle grounds and the walking tours begin at the back of the castle and run up the mountain side. One of them runs towards the side of the lake and is outrageously steep, but easily ascendable from the back, even with carriages. From the top, one can see a tower on the horizon. The river that flows between this mountain and the next has a narrow canal and forms a multitude of cascades, which have been slowly redirected over slopes. All the way at the top, however, an abundant and beautiful waterfall crashes over the rock face. The park consists of a variety of trees, in particular pines and larches, which have been tastefully planted, as well as the most flourishing plants imaginable. The frequent showers for which the western part of Scotland, and particularly this region, is known for cause little harm to them. Along the way, there are some landmarks, such as an expansive vegetable garden, the stables, and, on the other side, a barn that has been made to look like a castle. On one side of the park there is a wide avenue with enormously tall trees. If one ascends it a little on this side, one soon finds another narrow valley, which is more often called a glen or cleft. There is a small lake in this valley, but it is not of any remarkable size. Between Inveraray and Inverness there are no other cities to mention, if Inveraray even deserves to be called a city. In this region, there are only a couple of villages or lone houses, apart from the castles and estates of some nobles. The road from Inveraray to the estate owned by the Earl of Breadalbane and Holland, located at the end of Loch Tay, passes Dalmally,

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Tyndrum, and Killin. As long as the Duke of Argylls park is still on ones side, one will continuously travel alon) the most refreshing public garden. Soon after that, the arable land becomes rougher. One travels without intervals, until, at last, one almost reaches the same height as the mountains between which one has been travelling, and almost walks amongst the clouds. The landscape then changes favourably once again and the country becomes more cheerful. The inland lake called Loch Awe is studded with an island here and there, and another lake, which discharges into Loch Awe, now becomes visible. Steep rock faces on the other side reflect the glimpses of sight and gather them all upon the cheerful fringes of the lake. At the end of Loch Awe is a rundown castle. The fertile valley of Dalmally, which is irrigated by a small river, follows it. Here, there are plenty of oats, barley, forests, and pastures for both sheep and cows. The village of Dalmally is widespread: the houses are far apart, which resembles the small towns in the Swiss valleys. Here and there, the cabins give off a sad atmosphere of poverty. From here to Tyndrum, one keeps ascending a very grim line of mountains. The house where travellers freshen up once they have reached it is considered to be the highest place in Scotland. Thereafter, one starts descending through a similar and no less grim path, where the road itself is very craggy and bumpy, until one suddenly finds oneself again in a more spacious and cheerful valley which will at last open onto Loch Tay. The closer to Loch Tay one gets, the better the housing, and there is even more than one mansion. From

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Tyndrum, and similar to all such places in the region, a small stream runs continuously on ones side. Alon) the way, this little stream forms several small lakes and, occasionally, some decent waterfalls, after which it almost turns into a full river before it empties its water into Loch Tay. Nevertheless, before it commingles with the Tay, the water deposits itself over the cliffs for several minutes in the most beautiful string of cascades and then encloses a high, long, and small island with a pine grove. On the tail of this island is the burial ground of the famous Scottish Clan Macnab, which is surrounded by four walls. Within these walls, as well as outside of them, one will find several tombs. As a whole, it has a picturesque feeling and unwillingly brings to mind the grave of Jean-Jacques Rousseau in Ermenonville. Killin, a nice village, is situated almost next to the lake, between the stream I just mentioned and another river originating from the adjacent valley which eventually joins Loch Tay as well. Loch Tay is about fourteen miles in length, has a width of two miles, and runs, apart from a bent of little significance, reasonably straight. The depth of the lake varies from 70 fathoms in some places to 100 fathoms in other places, most notably near Killin. The loch almost never freezes. The shores of the lake rise up high on both sides and are exquisitely constructed. Apart from a large area of forest at the end, there are mostly fields of corn that extend almost to the tops of the mountains. The road continuously runs along the left side of the lake. When approaching the end of the road, one will detect a small island on the lake and a beautiful bridge that crosses the River Tay, which originates

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JOHAN MEERMAN from the loch. In addition, one is able to see the church of Kenmore elevated on the other side, close to the water, with an elegant rectory a little further on and, at last, the little houses of the village of Kenmore as well. The Earl of Breadalbanes Taymouth Castle is nearby. The castle, which is located about a mile and a half from the village, is an old- fashioned building, except for the two new wings that were added. The building was built during the Reformation, and displays several eccentric and even obscene figures to ridicule the monks. There is nothing remarkable about the interior design, except for some good paintings, amongst which are a few by Guercino, which are situated in one of the halls. Around the castle there are, aside from the offices and shops, a bakery, a brewery, a blacksmith, a woodworker, a mason, and a butchery. A lord in these parts of the kingdom has almost everything, apart from products of foreign origins, and he does not rely on anyone. A large park surrounds the castle. One half is enclosed by a brick wall and the other half by woodwork. The grass is very well maintained and about 150 deer graze in it. The town does not lack in size either. It mostly consists of a terrace that follows the meandering of the Tay, with a little hill on which a small temple of Venus is built. The view on this hill is beautiful on both sides. A walking route runs on the other side of the river through a forest on a slope, and an artistic building presents itself there too. The bridge that leads to these parts has three arches and is heavily cemented to withstand the rapid flow of the river. Nevertheless, it is peculiar that even though Loch Tay is mostly untouched by the frost as is the river by the same

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SCOTLAND name, a very close-by river, with a much stronger current, does not seem to be able to escape the frost. The mountains on the side of the building are covered in all kinds of forestation. However, an opening was left where a wall was built that resembles a fort. Behind this wall, a few rooms have been built. The view from this place is quite stunning: it overlooks a wide valley with the Tay flowing through it and capturing a part of the loch. Several other parlours spread around the area are insignificant. Lord Breadalbanes estate is so vast that he is able to travel to the west coast of Scotland through his own land and he even owns one of the western islands. His worth is estimated at 15,000 pounds sterling. Each year, the land is divided and the parts are rented to farmers. Each of these parts brings in between twelve and sixteen pounds sterling. The sheep are kept on the mountainsides throughout the year, which provides them with a sufficient quantity of food. The trees growing all around on the slopes of the mountains were almost all planted by the current lords uncle and ancestor, and are greatly increasing in height, especially the larch, the tree favoured most by the Scottish soil, which is regarded as the most profitable tree there. The mountains in this area, like other areas in the whole kingdom, are frequented from all sides by lovers of hunting, all the way to their upper peaks. The hunters wish to take part in the moorfowl hunt: a bird also known as grouse. The season starts halfway through August and lasts for about four months. A good hunter can take down up to 30 of these birds. Some people camp out in tents on the mountains for several days, while others take up rooms in lodges or houses in the

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JOHAN MEERMAN area. I have already discussed how much this type of game is appreciated for the best of reasons. From Taymouth, a very pleasant valley leads to Dunkeld, with the Tay, steadily pouring down, on the left. Along this route, the views are gorgeous and the area is well cultivated. There are mansions here and there, many farms, and a few hills with piled stones that are probably of very old age. In addition to passing a lot of plantation, not far from Dunkeld, one passes through a forest which is famous in Scottish history.68 Dunkeld lies on the property of the Duke of Atholl; it is hard to imagine a more Romanesque location for this noblemans estate. The River Tay, (airly wide and with stron) currents, pours through the valley, which is confined on both sides by high and tightly spaced mountains. The mountains opposite to the village form a semicircle. In its hollow, the plantation, shielded from the northern winter winds, is exquisitely landscaped, even though it has been stretched over the outer spine of the mountains. From behind, the cliff- like crown of the mountain, which is not completely bare, extends out and up. A folly was built on one of the rocky outcrops, but it was too small to be notable at this height. Here, one first crosses over a green terrace along the Tay, splendidly overgrown, with a forest consisting of tall pine trees on a slope on the left. Then, on a wider road, one passes a sort of temple. One can see the entire village, which has

68 Here, Meerman probably refers to what is today known as Tay Forest Park. It is still known as a historical site, which features, for example, historical military bridges, hilltop forts, and what is most likely Scotlands (irst mana)ed (orest Tay Forest ”ark.

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SCOTLAND been built in a fairly proper manner, and crosses a bridge, underneath which runs the public road. The ruin of the old Church – of which the choir is the only place for service nowadays – is almost completely hidden under moss and trees, which grow over it. In the middle of a cheerful bowling green stands the castle: a properly square, but not particularly remarkable building. An extensive vegetable garden is located behind it, clinging onto the mountains. The location of it is so fortunate that the cold ground even produces fruits that would otherwise not grow in England when it is between 56 and 57 degrees. Through a forest of thick pine trees, one eventually returns to the lowlands near the river. The artistic buildings in this place are of little significance, and the cascade formed by the Tay in front of the terrace pales in comparison to the wonderful waterfall crashing down from the mountain on the other side. There is another walking trail here, with pleasant plantations, following along a little river that is a tributary of the Tay, but has a much stronger current. One passes, at first, almost without seeing the water, through bedrock and forest, until reaching an open place. Nature has strewn lumps of rocks all around this open place, but each of these, in order to smooth the wildness of this place, has been made into a sort of centre point of a flowerbed. At the edge stands a view-house that does not show anything from this side other than a simple and open semicircle, with a door painted to look like the ocean at the end. But before one can enter, the painted door is

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JOHAN MEERMAN suddenly torn away and reveals a most elegant dome with mirrors at the top and paintwork in between.69 The windows on the farthest side from of the entrance offer a view, at an appropriate distance, of the waterfalls directly in front – that is, of these incomparable waterfalls I refer to. They are known as the Black Linn Falls. The river first shows itself coming in much further away and rolling over stones, up until the moment it passes over four big lumps of rock, and, as a result, is split in three strong currents before it crashes down about 30 feet. Thereon, from aside, it flows through a small passage, over which a bridge has been built, before moving into a wider riverbed. Then, as I have described before, it finally flows into the Tay. From the view-house, which is positioned on a rocky outcrop, one looks straight down into the pit that receives the cascade. The mirrors that cover the ceiling reflect the water surging up like heavy smoke from this pit. Approximately twenty miles to the north,70 the Duke of Atholl owns another estate, which is just as beautiful as the one in Dunkeld, although they differ considerably in terms of nature. The village is called Blair and the nearby estate is called Atholl House. The road from one estate to the other runs along the

69 This is also known as “ssians Hall o( ‘irrors. The Halls door was operated by a device that withdrew the painting into the wall, providing access to the hall of mirrors. The Hall was partially destroyed in 1869. The site was donated to the Scotland National Trust in 1943, who renovated the building and reopened it for public enjoyment Dunkeld Hermita)e. 70 In the original, the number is unclear. Therefore, it is uncertain whether the number is actually twenty.

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Tay for a long time, and then takes a right turn into a narrow but remarkably well-cultivated valley, with a river running deep below, which flows into the River Tay. The duke usually spends the hottest period of the summer at Blair Castle, as well as a few months during the hunting season. The more southern situated Dunkeld House serves as his winter residence, as it is better protected against the cold. The castle is unconceivably large and used to be so tall that it was deemed necessary to take down the two top floors. However, new constructions have been added on both sides. Indoors, one finds a few large halls and many rooms of no particular elegance. The whole place is practically a maze. There is open space on all sides around the manor house, since the valley is very wide and unobstructed. The estate is large and divided into several areas. Except for the extensive vegetable garden and a pleasure ground, it mostly consists of pine and larch forests. A hilly path runs along a stream, which is always right beside one like a chasm. Another path leads to two delightful waterfalls. The first of these waterfalls can be viewed from a considerable height, where, looking down, one can see a powerful stream of water pouring down on natural rock formations in the shape of steps. The second waterfall, which is only a fraction of the first, spurts water in the shape of an arc into the same pool of water as the other one, after having first turned the wheel of a mill. This waterfall is wider and can be seen from a cave from the opposite side; the first one is higher and more natural-looking. Nevertheless, I prefer the one in Dunkeld to either of these.

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It is peculiar that by digging into the ground one can find roots of pine trees in nearly all of the desolate areas in Scotland. This proves that a large part of the kingdom must have been covered with pine forests in the preceding centuries. One of these old and noble forests can still be found in the east, alongside the banks of the River Spey. This forest area has recently been let to some investors from London by the owner, the Duke of Gordon, who has owned these forests for approximately twenty years. The wood is processed on the location itself and then shipped to England. Nevertheless, 50 years ago, there were almost no pine trees left in Scotland, and, since then, almost all owners of big estates started replanting this useful pine tree on land that could not be used for any other purpose. One can therefore see older and younger pine and larch forests, of which the number keeps increasing daily. The pine trees are sown in May and are replanted a year and a half later, at a distance of only one step away from each other. They wait another year or a year and a half before they replant the larch trees. The plantations and the estates of the Duke of Atholl are of a considerable size, and the profits he makes off of them are approximately 15,000 pounds sterling a year. The location o( the Dukes small huntin) lod)e, which he had constructed about six miles away from Blair Castle, is remarkable. One travels on a narrow, winding road through a reasonably well-cultivated mountainous area, with natural cascades here and there. The building itself has little more than a vestibule with a wing containing three rooms on either side. The lodge is situated in a small valley, which stretches

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SCOTLAND out for miles. Grass grows in the lower parts of the valley, and the mountains on the right side are covered with meadows on which sheep graze. The mountains on the left side are bare rocks. Both ridges are very high and their tops are completely desolate. The wilderness owned by the Duke begins here, and this area spans approximately 80,000 Scottish acres or 50,000 Dutch morgens. On two sides, the area is bounded by several rivers that cross each other. The third side of this area touches someone elses estate. Wild birds and a (ew thousand deer, free as the air they breathe, are the only inhabitants of this forsaken region. It is estimated that the number of deer will double within a couple of years. Further down the road, the Duke has another hunting lodge. He sometimes spends a few days in both lodges, amusing himself with shooting deer in the desolate mountains. The area past Blair is wild, bleak, and uninhabited, with here and there only a waterfall, a small lake, and herds of cows, which can be seen being driven down the road or grazing on the mountain meadows. The first two inns where one takes a break are the only houses that one comes across. Here, one finds the most rugged and grimmest mass of mountains and rocks imaginable, as well as a stony, half- finished road. This unpleasant and deserted area can be forgotten for a while when one comes across a village and a reasonably well-cultivated valley through which the River Spey runs. Here, one discovers people and houses again. However, in between Garvamore Inn and Fort Augustus, everything is once more deserted, so much so that one would imagine oneself the only person left in the world. Meanwhile,

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JOHAN MEERMAN on this stage one ascends and descends Corrieyairack, one of the highest mountains in Scotland.71 The road climbs steadily before one reaches the top. The ascent on the one side and the descent on the other side contain about 21 or 22 windings. The area is covered with moors. On the top of this mountain, one is supposed to be able to distinguish both the sea on the west and the east coast of Scotland. However, the clouds covered the top of the mountain when I passed its summit and robbed me of the pleasure such a wide view of the country would have provided. As it was so cold and misty, the sight of one or two moorfowls was the only change of scenery the ascent and descent offered me. The northern part of Scotland is separated from the south by a diagonal line, rising from left to right. Nature played a part in causing this division, given the fact that there is a sequence of long and narrow lakes that form this remarkable line. This natural divide in the landscape has been used for a political purpose, namely to cut off the Scottish above the line from the ones below in times of rebellion. They built three forts in between the lakes in 1745: Fort William, Fort Augustus, and Fort George. I did not see the first one, but I will discuss the latter two now. Fort Augustus lies on the far end of Loch Ness, in between a few rivers that flow into the lake. One of these rivers originates from a little lake

71 Meerman is referring to the Corrieyairack Pass. The summit is 775 metres, and therefore cannot be considered one o( the hi)hest mountains in Scotland, as ‘eerman seemed to think. The hi)hest mountains in Scotland are all over 1,000 metres ;orrieyairack ”ass).

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SCOTLAND approximately three miles higher up, and flows through a valley to the lake. The fort is fairly small and houses not more than 25 men, not taking the company of invalids into account. The road which runs along Loch Ness to the city of Inverness is pleasant. The lake never freezes over, and has a length of 26 miles. On all sides it is about one and a half miles wide, and it is enclosed by two chains of hills on either side. When one starts to climb the chain of hills on the right side, one will see the fort from up high, as well as a part of the lake. Then, climbing on, one will lose sight of the lake at once. The land in this area is considerably well-cultivated. One is led past a few small basins, and, after that, one goes through the middle of a birch forest, along a fast-moving stream. The stream has a reddish colour, as it runs through copper-like soil. After several cascades, this river turns into the famous Falls of Foyers. The Falls of Foyers are two waterfalls which are only a minute away from each other. The first waterfall is approximately half the height of the second one, and can be viewed from a bridge, which has been placed in front of the waterfall. The water comes from the side, flowing into a round basin of rocks, and from there it pours down in a powerful, wide torrent. The next waterfall, which I regret to have only seen from above, falls down in a straight line from 200 feet up. The sound of the water coming down in foam and the width of the stream is something one can feel but hardly describe. The colour of the water caused people to name the waterfalls the Falls of Fire. Not far away, one will find oneself at the banks of the lake. One will then continuously travel

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JOHAN MEERMAN along the same road, carved out of the rocks and hanging almost over the water front. In some places, the path is hilly and even dangerous; at other times, the road is charming and pleasantly shaded. When the lake ends, the River Ness continues for approximately six miles, until it flows into the sea at Inverness. The river is reasonably wide and winds through a green and fertile valley. There are many new plantations and a few estates on the banks of the river. The Highlands end on this side at Inverness. From what I have said so far, one will have been able to gather that this area of the country is still desolate, rocky, sparsely populated, and badly cultivated. The flourishing valleys pleasantly change the barrenness of the natural scenery. The landowners compete with each other to bring life and development to the areas that are naturally unfertile. The variety of scenery one encounters is more or less common in most mountainous areas. Still, one will not find the extreme variety of scenery that the north of Scotland offers anywhere else. The Highlands have the most picturesque lakes; the biggest waterfalls; estates of the utmost beauty in the middle of the countryside where one would not expect them; the remarkable shapes and locations of certain mountains or valleys, and the seemingly unlimited vistas. All of these make the Highlands a noteworthy place to visit for foreigners. Of course, the Scottish mountains do not compare to the Alps; moreover, the range of the mountains is of a completely different nature. However, one can find some mountains of a considerable height. The highest mountain of all of Scotland can be found at Fort William. The top is

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SCOTLAND covered with snow for several months of the year. The snow also makes the road between Blair and Fort Augustus impassable during the winter. It even snowed on the mountains in that region during the night of 28 to 29 of August of last year, although the snow melted away during the day. The climate that comes to mind now differs extremely from one place to another, corresponding to how low the area is situated or the degree of vegetation. In the west it is mostly humid because of the incessant rain. The inhabitants cannot be called beautiful. Many of the men, even though they are well-built, are especially scrawny in the face. It is well known that the clothing of the Highlanders consists of a Balmoral bonnet, which would not flatter anyone, and a plaid which is flung over the vest and across the shoulder like a bandolier in good weather and worn when it rains. They also wear a sort of apron, which goes all the way around the waist and ends above the knees, and, underneath that, stockings held up by string. The clothing is of a sort of chequered fabric in two colours, which they typically fabricate and weave themselves. The knees are always exposed, and they do not wear anything that closes around the body, which one would not expect in such a cold and humid climate. Still, the inhabitants get used to it from a young age, and they have the strength to endure these discom(orts. The Hi)hlanders out(it does not have a disagreeable effect though, especially with regards to the

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JOHAN MEERMAN soldiers, who wear a helmet instead of the round cap.72 The women wear similar clothing to the women in the Dutch Republic. The charms of Scottish women are only dangerous for the Highlander. They have coarse features, squint their eyes as if they are always looking into the sun because they never wear a hat, and have a taille and legs to match this appearance. All of this prevents them from being admired too much by a foreigner. The language spoken in the Highlands is Scottish Gaelic or Gaelic. Although most people also understand English, they mostly speak Gaelic. Scottish Gaelic is a dialect of Gaelic, just like Welsh and Irish. Sermons are given in both languages. In 1783, the first part of the Old Testament was published in this language, after the New Testament had already been translated in 1767.73 The pronunciation of Gaelic is not very pleasant and contains many guttural sounds. There is not much to say about the character of the Highlander. Since the rebellion of 1745, they have behaved as obedient subjects in public affairs. Their huts are extremely shabby, mostly made out of turf, and sometimes out of several

72 Footnote by ‘eerman At present, there are (our re)iments o( Highlanders serving in the British Army. Their garrison, however, is not situated on the island, although several recruited officers, soldiers on (urlou)h, and recruits can occasionally be (ound in their home country. 73 Footnote by ‘eerman As a proo( o( this, I include the (irst two verses o( Genesis here San toiseach chruthaich Dian a neamhan a)us an talamh. A)us bhan talamh )un dealbh a)us salamh a)us bha Dorchadas air a)haidh na doimhne a)us bha Spiorad De a )lueasad air a)haidh nan uis)eacha.

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SCOTLAND crude stones placed on top of each other and covered with turf or heather. Their huts are full of smoke because they do not let the smoke out via the door, windows, or through an opening in the roof. Peat is also used as fuel, since the bogs produce this resource in abundance. The only bread that is eaten here is oat cake; this tough and unbearable food is also blamed for causing scabies, which is very pervasive in Scotland. Whiskey, a strong spirit made from barley, is consumed in large quantities, and has an intoxicating effect and quite an unpleasant taste when one is not used to it. Furthermore, one can easily imagine that the potato is also eaten a lot by these people. The currency is very inexpensive and the daily wages are low. Inns do not ask more than a shilling per person for a meal that almost always contains mutton, as there is plenty of this meat in the Highlands. Nothing is more disadvantageous in this region for the people and the culture than the unnatural size of the estates of a few noblemen. The residents on the land are merely the noblemens tenants. They do not own any property and are very much oppressed in some places. Even with the best ideals in mind, such powerful lords are incapable of individually undertaking the work that could easily be accomplished by smaller owners. The latter will be particularly inspired with dedication when they realise that nobody else can take away the advantages of the improvements they make. The Highlands differ very much in this respect from the territory of Savoy, where the industrious countryman has cultivated land on terraces high up in the

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JOHAN MEERMAN mountains, taking control of the hard, infertile land with all their might in order to make this area productive. After having travelled one of the sparsely populated areas for several consecutive days, it is a relief to arrive at the city of Inverness; cities like this have become a rarity. As I already mentioned, the city is situated along the Ness, which runs into a broad basin, mixing with the Moray Firth and the sea. The city consists mostly out of four straight streets and a marketplace where the streets meet. With a few exceptions, the houses do not look like much, and the number of inhabitants is about 9,000 or 10,000. A big, new English Church, and a smaller and older Scottish Gaelic one, in which together three ministers hold sermons, make up the clergy here. There is a yarn factory, for which approximately 5,000 women and children spin yarn in the countryside, which in turn is further twined and prepared in the factory. There is also a canvas factory. Both factories occupy two new buildings and bring prosperity to the town. There is a prison underneath the bridge to which the prisoners are lowered through a hatch. On the opposite side, the streets are not noteworthy. A little further away, there is a remarkable, symmetrical, and wholly isolated mountain, on which they have cultivated the land for some time now. Alon) the beach, with a sort o( sea bank on ones side, one is transported to Fort George. This fort is built on the end of a headland, which is situated between the Moray Firth and the bay of which I just spoke. The strait here is only two miles long. The fort has six sides, is regularly fortified and well maintained, and the grass is cut on the embankments, just as

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SCOTLAND it would be on an estate. Seventy-four canons of different sizes are arranged on the walls and there are spacious casemates below. Furthermore, this fort contains all the facilities that are expected to be there, and they are quite splendid. The soldiers sleep two and two in military barracks, and are provided with a fire and flour, yet, they have to arrange the rest of their food themselves. Outside the fort, the farmers meet on a small marketplace to provide the soldiers with provisions. The officers eat together in an inn. Except for the company of invalids, who always remain in the fort and who often have a wife and children, there is always one regiment present, which is replaced annually. In times of war, there are usually two regiments stationed here. When the garrison is complete, their number totals to approximately 500 men, and together with the inhabitants of the fort, this number amounts to just about 1,000 people. However, a large part of the regiment is usually on leave. A chaplain gives sermons in the chapel of the fort. The sergeant major lives in the house of the commander in his absence. All in all, one generally does not find any fortresses that are as fine and complete as this one. The road from here to Banff runs along the coast of the Moray Firth, and leads through several small towns. Nairn almost deserves no mention. After Nairn, the Highlander clothing virtually disappears. At least, one only occasionally sees it being worn, as I also noted to be the case in Glasgow. Forbes is agreeably situated, has some good buildings, and consists mainly out of one long street. Just outside the city there is a stone beside the road of approximately twelve feet

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JOHAN MEERMAN high, which is thought to have been raised there by Vikings after a victory. On the front of this stone one can see several sections with many figures engraved in the rock, mostly people on foot or on horseback, in addition to horses without riders. The back of the stone and the sides are covered with scrollwork. Elgin has the ruins of a few religious buildings in its vicinity. Two of those used to be abbeys, and one of them is still noteworthy because of its splendour. The walls of the church and the cloister are almost entirely intact; the cloisters )round (loor still exists as well. The church only misses its roof, and the walls still show evidence of paintings here and there. It seems this church was built shortly before the Reformation. It was never fully completed, and a few years after its construction it became what it is now. The ruins of Elgin Cathedral stand on the other side of the city. It was partly demolished in the sixteenth century. In its heyday, it must have been a wonderful building and it still is in its ruined state. What one can see of the remaining sculptures, the decorative windows, and suchlike is superb. The walls are still intact and even the dome is still present in the chapterhouse, resting on one pillar as per usual in these buildings. Nevertheless, in comparison to the church, the dome is not proportionate in size. The family of the Dukes of Gordon has its funeral chapel at these ruins, and almost all the inhabitants of the city will be laid to rest in the new cemetery. Elgin has a spacious marketplace, on which the church and town hall are situated, both of which are not very remarkable.

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The houses have a decent appearance and the few recently founded textile factories could make this town prosperous in the future. Apart from in the main church, sermons are also held in a chapel, in which a few people pay a Presbyterian minister out of their own pocket, while the Crown, usually at recommendation of the magistrate, appoints the ministers who preach in the main church. Before one arrives at Fochabers, one is transported over the fast-flowing River Spey in miserable ferries. Gordon Castle, the residence of the duke of the same name, is situated at Fochabers, which is a small place. The castle is thought to be the biggest in Great Britain. The length of the facade is between 500 and 600 feet; it consists out of a corps de logis and two wings, however, it does not have a magnificent structural design. At the back of the building, they left the old tower standing on purpose, and they have spoiled much of the rest of the building by doing that. Inside, however, one can find more beauty. The vestibule and the stairs display good orderliness, and are both provided with good reproductions of antique statues and busts. The drawing room and dining hall are both superb halls with beautiful ceilings, good reproductions of renowned paintings, and handsome furniture. A new drawing room is being constructed, of which the ceiling is already completed, all displaying exceptionally good taste. In one of the wings, another drawing room is being built with a dome; the source of light comes from above. The stables and the offices are very beautiful. It is said that the construction of this castle has cost the duke almost one million Dutch guilders. His effects, which are scattered

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JOHAN MEERMAN along the width of Scotland, raise about 15,000 or 16,000 pounds sterling a year, and this sum would be even larger if the farmers had the means to pay their rent. The grounds do not account for much at this castle. After Fochabers, there is a pleasant little town named Cullen. Cullen House, the castle of Lord Findlater, is situated not far from it. It is built on the edge of a mountain, and while one enters it at the front de plain pied, from the back windows one looks into an abyss, in which some vegetation grows. On the inside, as well as on the outside, the place is quite old-fashioned, with some exceptions. Even so, it contains a beautiful library. The place is very large and unusually well laid out; the unevenness of the ground has facilitated this. Most of the woodland is placed against a few mountains where a river flows in between. There is also a nice pleasure ground and vegetable garden, which is remarkable because of its large size. A beautiful fence, which should be the front entrance, stands behind this garden. The wilder plantations belonging to Cullen House stretch for miles. A beautiful chasm, formed by two mountains and noticeable from a distance, is a particularly popular attraction here. The estate itself matches the size of that of so many others. Additionally, the profits of Lord Findlater are estimated to be not much less than those of the Duke of Gordon, and it is said that the land could still be considerably improved. The road is straight and unvarying from Fort George to Elgin. The sea appears almost always on the left, with the old sea bank on the other side. After a while, the road becomes

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SCOTLAND better cultivated and more pleasant, especially between Fochabers and Banff, due to the mountainous area and the varying scenery provided along the way: the sea, the pine forests, the cliffs, well-cultivated land, a few villages, and more people than one was used to seeing in the past few locations. Banff is located on the downward slope of a protruding mountain, which is confined by the sea on one side and by a moderate river that flows into the sea on the other side. On the third side, the estate of the Earl of Fife borders the mountain. The view from the highest point of the city is glorious. Not only can one see a part of Banff itself and the sites just mentioned, but also the beautiful hills on the other side of the river. A small rotunda is placed on top of one of those hills. The secluded small town of Doune is located on the foot of the same hill by the sea. Far in the distance, on the opposite side of the Moray Firth, are the mountains of Ross- shire and Caithness-shire, the two most northern counties of the kingdom. The otherwise old-fashioned castle, inhabited by the Countess Dowager of Findlater, is remarkable mostly because o( its vistas. Additionally, the castles )arden and terraces are agreeably laid out. Not far from this building, there is a little fort nearby the sea, constructed during the latest war, where the citizens of the city were recruited. It is only provided with about ten canons and resembles a miniature fortress in all regards. The cemetery contains a pyramidal monument of Admiral Thomas Gordon, which is decorated with engravings. However, only the top of the monument is visible because of the walls that surround it.

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Usually, there are hardly any ships in the harbour of Banff. Furthermore, there are no factories, nor does there seem to be much trade in this town. The inhabitants of Banff are affluent people and they do not seem to have a lack of gatherings and entertainment, especially during winter. The city is not very large; there are a few good streets, particularly the broad street where the city hall is situated. A beautiful stone bridge has been built over the river. At the head of the government is the provost or mayor of the town, a position that lasts for three years. It is customary here, as in many other Scottish cities, to hand a diploma of honorary citizenship to estimable foreigners who come to visit the city. I have already mentioned that the estate of Lord Fife touches the border of the city on one side, and the park of the estate stretches mainly along both banks of the river. Coming from Banff, there are two entrances to the estate, each with a fine gate. One can see one of the entrances from the bridge of the city, and the other is located at the end of one of the streets. The castle is situated a bit higher up on a green plain. It is a big square building without wings, although they were intended to be there originally. However, the castle has many architectural adornments, perhaps even a few too many. The interior of the castle is mostly still unfinished, and what has been completed does not show the best taste. The best part of the castle is the library, which consists of one hall, high up in the building. There are small and narrow footpaths running through the hills along the river. All kinds of woodlands grow here in abundance. The layout of the woodland and the placement of

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SCOTLAND several artistic buildings demonstrate inventiveness and perspective: sometimes one sees the winding river and at other times a waterfall. The pine forest on the slope of the mountain is a little less vibrant than all the other kinds of forests. Near the end of the park, the river becomes narrower and enclosed by rocks. The owner had a bridge constructed here. On the opposite side there is another forest, and near the city, the earl had a farmstead built. The land that belongs to it is fenced and constructed in the English style as a good model for the Scottish. The estate of this nobleman is vast and of importance; Banff has a powerful neighbour in the earl, since he had the small town of Doune built by the coast, only a few miles away, which, because of its better harbour, takes away some of the prosperity from Banff. The region from here to Aberdeen is mountainous and the scenery alternates between moors, pine woods, and the occasional wheat field. The city of Aberdeen stretches along a bay where the River Dee flows into the sea. It is quite a remarkable, hilly city, consisting of a few straight, although not very broad streets. It has a fine rectangular marketplace, which is adorned with a statue of a British monarch. The city hall, which is also located at this square, is a handsome building with a turret. In this city one can find several good new houses, which are built with granite. Aberdeen has 22,000 inhabitants, of whom most make their living from the stocking weaving mill. Their products are sent to Germany, via the Dutch Republic. In addition, there are some other textile factories near the city. The harbour holds, on occasion, a large amount of ships at the same time. To prevent silting,

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JOHAN MEERMAN they built a beautiful stone quay of 1,400 feet long; although, as I was informed, this quay does not serve its purpose, as the floor of the harbour continues to rise. The outskirts of Aberdeen stretch for miles. Approximately three miles around the city, the land is exceedingly well cultivated, but as one goes further away, it is all covered with unfruitful moors again. The cultivated land has not existed for that long; before, there was only one farmstead in the area. People do not complain about the expenses they made trying to cultivate the land; even though preparations for half a Dutch morgen of land has cost 100 pounds sterling, that same land raises about 6 pounds sterling now. This towns university has been split into two colle)es Marischal College, (ounded by Lord ‘arischal and Kin)s College, founded by the Crown approximately half a century earlier, before the Reformation. The first is situated in the city, the second is located in Old Aberdeen, about a mile away from Marischal College, in a village where there are the ruins of an old cathedral. They tried to merge the two colleges last year, as it would have had the benefits of teaching all the sciences, which is not the practice at present. In Law and Medicine only gradus are being distributed, similar to Oxford, but no lectures are being given. Besides, money could be saved on books and instruments as well. The majority of Marischal College was in favour of this merge, but the other college was of the opinion that they had conflicting interests. As far as I know, the project has not yet been executed. Each college has a headmaster and all together the number of professors amounts to sixteen, if I am not mistaken. Some of

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SCOTLAND the professors reside at the university buildings, although the students, approximately 400, all live in the city of Aberdeen. The professors give both public and private lessons, and the respectable people generously compensate them by paying approximately fifteen Dutch guilders per course. Mr Beattie of Marischal College is one of the honourable professors at Aberdeen University, and is known for having written several philosophical works. Marischal College is a big, old-fashioned building. Through a long hall where public meetings are held, one enters a room full of natural objects and rarities, instruments to do with physics, mechanical devices, and the like. The room is quite new and not yet properly arranged. An object from the sea, of which it is impossible to tell if it once belonged to the plant or the animal kingdom, and an intact mummy, although handled too much to stay undamaged for long, are two remarkable objects that deserve to be mentioned here. Many Scottish minerals and pearls are also preserved here. The library possesses several manuscripts with good illustrations, a beautiful stock of medical books, and several valuable books with illustrations. Kin)s ;olle)e is even bigger and more beautiful from the outside. They also have a collection of natural objects here, but I did not manage to see them. A beautiful Gothic chapel has been divided in two. Inside the church, the old chancel is still in its place, yet the nave is used as a library with a circular gallery above it. The observatory is on the complete other side of the city than the two colleges. It is placed at the corner of a fort,

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JOHAN MEERMAN which is at the end of the harbour and situated on a mountain, and provides a wide, beautiful view of the sea, the bay, the river, the city, and the surrounding countryside. The observatory has outstanding instruments and equipment, divided over three or four rooms. Several of these instruments can be found here, in particular the beautiful Aequatorium Universale, which Lord Bute donated to the university, the recipient of his generosity. The extensive territory between Aberdeen and Perth becomes of interest once one starts approaching the city of Perth. Laurencekirk, one of the places one passes through, is only a village. The nobleman to whom this village belongs is constructing a small, very elegant wing at the inn, to serve as a library for the entertainment of travellers staying there. Forfar, a long, cheerful little town, consists of one street with several wells. They are, at present, busy building a fine city hall here. At some distance from this place, near Glamis, one comes across a few very extensive woodlands belonging to country estates; amongst the latter is a large, old-fashioned castle with many turrets. The road from there to Perth goes through a very broad and fertile valley. The Highlands emerge on the right side, from which one can see the top of Ben Lomond. On the left side, there are smaller mountains, between which there is much woodland, several estates, and well-situated manor houses. One travels through a small, although agreeable, little town called Coupar Angus. Everything slowly starts to have the look of prosperity again, which is often missing in the northern part of the kingdom.

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Roughly three miles before one descends, one can see Perth situated in a valley bellow, through which the River Tay runs. This River, which we have met earlier at its source, is deep enough here for merchant vessels. Because several tributaries flow into the Tay, it is considered to carry the most water of all rivers in Scotland. Approximately fourteen years ago, a fine stone bridge with nine arches was built, and because the cost of its construction was so high, anyone who wishes to cross it is asked to pay a fairly high fee. On the north side of the water, there are only a few houses; the city stretches entirely along the southern side. There is no quay along the river, which would have been a fine embellishment to the city; instead, a narrow street runs parallel to it, making up four straight corners with two other broader streets going south. The city hall is located at one of the broader streets. It has a marketplace in between. At the end of another street, there is a large hospital. The main church of Perth is reasonably well-constructed and the interior is well- decorated. East of the city, there is a nice footpath along the Tay with a delightful view of the well-cultivated mountains on the opposite side, and a shipyard at the end of the road. Several nice new houses are being built near the bridge. There is quite a lot of trade in this city and there are a couple of prospering factories, such as cotton mills, bleach factories, and the like. The mountainous region that stretches from here to Stirling resembles the one between Glamis and Perth, except that in the Highlands one can look as far as the horizon. The beautiful wheat fields and woodlands where one is led

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JOHAN MEERMAN through make the road thoroughly pleasant. Stirling Castle is located on a high, isolated hill in the middle of a large, fertile valley. The moment it comes into view is particularly delightful. Before one approaches the city, one travels through this valley, surrounded by several rocks for quite some time. The city of Stirling consists mainly of one steep road along a narrow mountain ridge. The castle is built on top of this mountain, which seems to go straight down on the three other sides. A big square marketplace, with a prison and an old church near it, separate the main road from the castle. Several new buildings are being built on the foot of the mountain, but the other houses of Stirling are not much to look at. In past times, the castle functioned as a stronghold, and it still has several fortifications. It was under siege during the last revolution of the Old Pretender. There is a lot of artillery lying around, although there is no other garrison than that of a company of invalids. Amongst the many buildings here, the old Royal Palace of James V, King of Scots, and the Parliament House, formerly united here, are the most remarkable. The first is very old-fashioned and built in the baroque style. Several statues of beautiful craftsmanship can be discovered in the walls: King James V and his Queen, a lord who killed this monarch, Adam and Eve, and other figures. The main hall and the dining room are at present occupied by a company of invalids, who use it as an armoury. The Parliament House has the shape of a long rectangle, although it has been robbed of its roof these days; a narrow spiral staircase leads to the top. One can walk all along the walls and

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SCOTLAND get an unobstructed view of the most beautiful valley imaginable. Here, one sees well-cultivated land, abundant woodlands, and several estates, villages, and cities through which two rivers run. After many windings, the rivers join one another in Stirling and make up the River Forth, which becomes very wide and then flows into the sea past Edinburgh. The road follows this river for quite a while. A good, busy road leads from Stirling to Carron, a place that is only known for its ironwork. The buildings that belong to the factory, founded in 1759 by some private individuals, almost make up a city of their own. Approximately 500 people work steadily here, and the work supports thousands in the area; indeed, the city of Falkirk has prospered and is populated because of this factory. Coal pits, iron mines, water, and well-nigh everything that is necessary for the iron production can be found near each other in this area. The production of wrought iron is the smallest; cast iron is primarily produced here. The past year, they were busy casting water pipes for Edinburgh. Many cannons are also cast here, as heavy as 24 pounds. Furthermore, they produce some very fine chimney plates and all sorts of other ironwork people desire. The four ovens are eerily deep pits in which half-burned coals, lime, English iron ore, and iron ore of poorer quality from the neighbourhood are thrown in and stoked together. The fires burn incessantly for several years in a row. When everything is melted, they take out the good iron twice in 24 hours, and run it through the sand and into the moulds. Instead of bellows, they have recently started using air pumps, which set a large water wheel into motion.

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Two pumps always go up and two others go down, while one pipe blows the pumped air into the ovens. The noise this produces is overwhelming.The transport of the goods takes place with ease over the nearby River Forth, especially at high tide, when the river is not much more than a few rods away. Close to this factory, the canal emerges, which is supposed to bring one from the Forth to the Clyde, and which will cross the width of Scotland and unite the two seas. At present, only two miles are finished just outside Glasgow, and it will be hollowed out past this city. It would not be of much use for large ships. The width of the canal is enough for two moderately sized merchant vessels to be able to pass each other. Aside from several sluices and a drawbridge, the water also runs, just as in the canal of the Duke of Bridgewater, over a beautiful stone floodgate, underneath which carriages can cross the canal. Overhead, the reservoir holds four and a half feet of water. The whole canal runs through one of the most pleasant and fertile valleys. Linlithgow, a large city built in an unconventional style, is merely worth mentioning because of the magnificent ruins of the castle where the last kings of Scotland resided. It must have been incredibly spacious; both the walls and the stairs in all four corners of the castle are still intact. From above, one enjoys a pleasant view of the surrounding lands and of a small lake which irrigates the grounds of the castle. Furthermore, one can still see where the Parliament used to meet, as well as the room where Queen Mary was born. Hopetoun House, which belongs to the lord of the same name, is not far from Linlithgow. It is one o( Great :ritains

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SCOTLAND most worthwhile sights to see, mainly because of its architecture and excellent location. The facade is of regal beauty. A semicircular colonnade unites the two wings of the estate with the corps de logis, which already has a large perimeter. One of the wings is used as a stable; the other was used as a riding school, but for the past couple of years, it has been in the process of being turned into a library. The back of the house is of less merit; it is not even properly built. The interior arrangement of the rooms has to be admired, as they follow one another and can all be seen at the same time. Apart from a few exceptions, the paintings and the suite of furniture are extremely mediocre. The gardens would not even deserve mentioning, were it not for the terrace on the Forth, which knows no equal. It is remarkably high and built in a quarter- circle. From here, one sees a large part of the stream leading to the bay, including both coasts, which are full of cities, villages, and strongholds; all the ships on the river; and the islands and rocks that appear here and there. On the south coast of the bay, in Queensferry, there is a protruding headland, which reduces the stream there. Therefore, the locals have decided to use this headland as a crossing to the north. The entire road from Stirling to Edinburgh, and all the places that one crosses when following this path that I have previously named, is very mountainous. It is lined with groves of trees, and it leads between fertile cornfields. The many estates that one passes, situated closely together, as well as the many equipages, riders, and pedestrians that one meets, signal the proximity to a capital.

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The eccentric Edinburgh is divided into two unequal parts: the Old Town, which resembles the city of Stirling, and the New Town. A long, straight, broad, and steadily rising street, beginning at the palace of the Scottish King and ending at a castle built on the top of a rock that cannot be climbed from three sides, is the oldest and main part of the Old Town. Tall, well-built houses, masoned out of square blocks of stone and reaching up to five or six floors high, surround the High Street from both sides, and there is an accessible footpath next to it. Each floor, or even half a floor, is not only inhabited by a particular family, but is usually owned by them as well. The Royal Exchange, a fine building with a square courtyard, is surrounded by houses and is barely used by merchants. It is connected to High Street and situated next to a couple of churches. The mountain ridge along which this place was built is no broader than the street itself. It leads to incredibly narrow alleys that descend steeply, where the densely inhabited houses are like depths of despair. On the right side of the main street runs a deep, broad canal, which is in fact a dried-up lake, with the new side of town on the opposite side. “n the main streets le(t side, streets, markets, and squares stretch out at different heights in the valley. Except for George Square, a big square plaza; some other squares decorated with grass; and some new streets containing beautiful houses, this part of Edinburgh is poorly constructed. The main street is intersected in the middle by a straight road of the same width. This cross street leads to two bridges, neither of which actually crosses any water. The left bridge, which at the time of writing has probably been

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(inished, connects the “ld Towns two mountains, and its numerous arches rest on the valley that separates these mountains. Some of these arches are open to allow for passage under the bridge. The middle arch forms a magnificent tall gate through which a street passes that can even be used by carriages. Many houses had to be demolished in order to build this bridge, but I am not sure if it shall bring Edinburgh more splendour or convenience. In the hollows of the valley, two rows of houses will be built at an equal distance on both sides of the bridge. The other bridge, being no less impressive than the first, connects the new Edinburgh with the old. Its four main arches and the other lesser arches rest in the dry canal running parallel to the main street that I mentioned earlier. Even the canal is not wholly uninhabited, as one can spot houses and churches when standing on the bridge and looking down. The General Register House, a building I will discuss later on as well, is situated close to this bridge, has a regal-looking facade, and is the first building one sees in New Town. On its right side, one finds a good theatre, and a bit further on, at a considerable height, an observatory. If I am not mistaken, David Hume is buried somewhere around here in a private setting. The people threatened to refuse his body being buried in a church. On the left side of the bridge, the whole of New Town stretches further outwards. This entire city was created over the course of just twenty years. These cities are built per an established plan and outstanding architecture; all the houses feature pretty, light yellow stone, which is mined nearby. New Town is not yet fully finished, although several

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JOHAN MEERMAN houses, which had been completed, were offered for sale or for rent last year. It is certain that the beauty of New Town exceeds that o( her mothers, but this dau)hter does not )ive her a reason to be envious, since the number of the Old Towns admirers has not diminished, the “ld Town remains as populous as before, and the prices of its houses remain stable as well. New Town consists primarily of a large square with a patch of grass in the middle. A straight, broad street leads westwards, parallel to two rows of houses built on a kind of terrace. One of these rows, the more wonderful of the two, goes towards the river with its cheerful banks, which starts to stream away from the city after about a mile. The other is built towards the Old Town. From here, the view of the rear of the buildings of the main street is striking, especially at night, when everything is lit up. This is because, as I mentioned earlier, seen from the front, the houses consist of half a dozen floors, and they are placed on the steep part of a mountain, however, seen from the rear, one can count ten, twelve, or even more floors. I pass by the crossroads of New Town without comment. What I find more interesting is a fine building on the square, which is turned a little inwards, and two wings of the same size. All three of these residences are owned by private individuals. In the street itself, one finds a church that has a peristyle with four Corinthian columns in the front and a dome at the back. On the inside, there is a crescent-shaped gallery. The church has only recently been decorated and provided with a ceiling. In the same street, one also finds the

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”hysicians Hall, which is turned slightly inwards, and it has four pillars on the outside, just like the church. The ”hysicians Hall, as well as the bi) Assembly Rooms further down the street, is not yet fully completed. In terms of construction and architecture, the Assembly Rooms are in good taste, but the interior decoration is not quite of equal quality. Three excellent inns have been built in the New Town with the aim of sheltering strangers, because the lodgings in the Old Town that travellers were previously forced to resort to are absolutely wretched. The General Register House, which I mentioned earlier, is not yet fully finished. After its completion, it will function as an archive and administrative office of Scotland. Before reaching the double stairs, one has to climb a considerable height from either side. The building, in both its interior and exterior, is exquisitely orderly. In this building, one finds a beautiful dome, one half of which extends out of the building and rises above it. The colourful ceiling is adorned in the best of taste. Not considering the two cellars, the building will consist of two floors. Both the bigger and the smaller chambers form a semicircle around the dome and are protected against fire by vaults. In the future, the other half of the dome might be surrounded by chambers as well, which will turn this into a beautiful, square building. The castle takes (irst place when rankin) the “ld Towns sights, especially because of the vistas one enjoys from up there. I even prefer it over the view one enjoys from Stirling, because Edinburghs view o((ers the si)ht o( a broad river leading to a bay, as well as the enriching, beautiful sea itself.

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From here, one sees both the Old and the New Town with mountains all around; the city of Leith; the ships and rocks on the Forth and on the sea; and the most delightful and fertile territory, scattered with estates, villages, and cities. Furthermore, the castle has a rugged cluster of buildings, defensive walls, and other things included in a fortification, such as multiple floors built on a foundation of rocks and furnished with artillery. It is constantly manned by a company of invalids. The Palace of Holyroodhouse, which was inhabited by Scottish monarchs in the past, is a square building with good architecture, in regards to both the facade and the decorations of the courtyard, around which there is a colonnade. Here one finds the hall in which the Scottish pairs are elected; it is a long, dirty gallery that has no other furniture or decorations but the mediocre portraits of all the past kings of this realm scattered all over the walls. The corridors lead to other, less significant, chambers. The suite of furniture in Queen Marys bedroom is preserved in its original condition. Here, one also sees the quarters where this unlucky and weak monarchs lover was murdered, the cabinets through which he was dragged, and the hangings behind which the murderers hid. Several Scottish noblemen also have their lodgings here, some of which contain good paintings that can be admired. Some beautiful ruins and an entire family chapel are what remain of the abbey next to the palace, where the royal family attended the service. One of the cellars in the walls of this abbey still preserves the scattered bones o( Queen ‘arys husband, placed on a loose

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SCOTLAND shelf. In an open casket, one will also find the skeleton of a Scottish countess, whose peace is indecently disturbed every time someone visits this place, as they show the visitors her bones. There is a meadow behind Holyroodhouse, and behind that there are tall mountains that bear the name o( Arthurs Seat. The Royal Infirmary is well deservin) o( any travellers attention and admiration. It is a large building, beautiful on the outside and spacious, simple, and clean on the inside. It is never filled to capacity, and no one is refused entry. The organisation of this establishment, its attentiveness towards the ill and injured of any kind, and the special spaces designed for different kinds of patients and their needs can be used as a model for other hospitals. All doctors and students of medicine have free access to this building. The students, dressed in a kind of robe, swarm around like bees and practice their pro(ession at patients beds as well as in the theatre where the operations take place. This will give them much more knowledge than they would have gathered if they shared an auditorium with the most capable professors. The hospital also features baths, gardens for patients in recovery, and a tower from which the city and its surroundings can be seen. Heriots Hospital is named after the civilian who founded it a century ago. After his donation, the hospital has received no other )i(ts o( importance. The hospitals main (unction is caring for the poor sons of freemen. The building has a delightful facade, a square courtyard, spacious halls, and an incredibly high chapel. The hospital owns the surrounding

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JOHAN MEERMAN land as well as many estates around Edinburgh. A different hospital, near Heriots, only deserves to be mentioned because of its enormous size. The college, or Edinburghs university buildin), is an old- fashioned colossus, with no order or beauty. It does not contain anything worth mentioning apart from a library, an anatomical cabinet, and a cabinet of curiosities, the latter of which I have not been able to see for myself. The books can be found in a large oval hall with an overhead gallery. According to local custom, the books are arranged per size. Therefore, one is only able to find the book one desires by using a catalogue. New books waiting to be put in their right places are held in a separate room. The most excellent part of the collection is its medical books, although other faculties own exquisite works as well. Each student of Edinburgh is allowed to take home as many books as they desire, provided they are able to pay a )uarantee (or those books. The librarys main curiosities on display are George Buchanans skull and the original Protest of the Bohemian Nobles against the burning of John Huss, which still has the original seals on it. There is an observatory atop the library. Specialists preserve the preparations of the anatomical cabinet in the most careful and professional manner. It is estimated that around 1,000 students, most of whom are students of medicine, are currently enrolled at the University of Edinburgh. The universitys Faculty o( ‘edicine is the oldest in the world, an honour that was previously enjoyed by Leiden University. Some of the professors live in the city, others at the college itself. For example, William

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Robertson, the renowned historian and principal of the university, takes up residence at the university itself. The students live scattered around the city. Classes are taught at the college, and everyone attending is required to pay three guineas to follow the cursus. Mr Henry is also one of the professors – not mentioning the professors of medicine – who, because of his detailed and innovative The History of Great Britain, graces the university. Edinburgh also counts several important men outside of the university amongst its members, for example, Mr Smith, author of The Wealth of Nations, a classic book that has been translated into every language known to us; Dr Blair, whose sermons are also very well known in the Dutch Republic; and others. There is a Society of Antiquaries, just like in London, and recently a fine Latin school has been founded. The Royal Botanic Garden, which is located just outside of town in the direction of Leith, is very large. As one would expect of such a university, it has all the excellent, exotic plants. The recently deceased Dr Hope built a pedestal with a vase in honour of Carl Linnaeus in a grove in the garden. Edinburghs St Giles ;athedral is an old, insi)ni(icant building, split up into several parts, all of which are in use; the main parts of the cathedral are decorated in a contemporary style. Other churches, apart from the ones I already mentioned in the New Town, are not worth mentioning. However, the Episcopal Church owns a great chapel. The way the church is governed is similar to the way it is done in the Dutch Republic. The synod, which is organised

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JOHAN MEERMAN annually in the capital, is a meeting of great importance and influence in the whole kingdom. Parliament House is located behind the cathedral. At the front of it, one finds a square adorned with a statue of King Charles II. Inside, there is a large hall in which legal procedures concerning the nation occur, for Scotland has its own laws and tribunals. The latter resemble the English ones, and they were not lost when the nations united. Downstairs, the lawyers have their own library, spread over two or three large rooms and filled with the best and most useful works. Regrettably, these quarters resemble cellars more than they do chambers, and the books cannot be moved due to their proximity to the tribunal. Furthermore, a mummy in exceptional state is stored here. Even though the nearest water can only be found over a mile away, Edinburgh is a city of roaring trade. Leith, a densely built and populous place on the River Forth, acts as the harbour for the city; a broad, ever-descending road leads there. Because houses are continuously being built along this road, Leith and Edinburgh may soon only be distinguished by their names. In Leith, one always finds a large fleet of merchant ships. The linen table cloths are amongst the most eminent merchandise produced in the capital. Especially in winter, the influx of the Scottish nobility, aside from the civil servants working at the colleges and tribunals, and also the university, give the city its exceptional lustre. During these months, the amusements, dances in particular, are numerous to the point of extreme amongst the various classes. In

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August, the footraces, which take place on the road to Leith, attract large crowds to the capital. Close by, in the same area of Hopetoun House, which I mentioned before, one can also visit Lord Abercorns estate, Duddingston House, a pretty, square building with a peristyle on the front. However, the House is not open to visitors. The gardens are tastefully constructed: they are cheerful, but without splendour. The road to Penicuik House, an estate that belongs to Sir James ;lerk, is very mountainous. The buildin)s (acade, and especially the double stairs through which one enters, are gorgeous. Here, one finds several beautiful rooms and paintings. The square, enlivened by waterworks, is rather pleasant. Wherever one goes, one enjoys the views of a valley, which is part of the gardens, as well as of a forest on the opposite side. Dalkeith Palace, seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, surpasses Penicuik House in terms of both its size and its suite of furniture. In the lower quarters, one finds an exquisite historical painting with life-sized images, made in Italian style. Furthermore, in a mirror cabinet, there is also a fine bas-relief, depicting Neptune and Venus meeting at sea. The beautiful staircase has a selection of good paintings. Upstairs, there are some antiques, most notably a statue of a woman holding a musical instrument, clothed in the most masterful of robes. The large hall features portraits and bronze copies of old statues. Aside from a small pleasure garden, the walk through the shaded forest between a creek and some rocks is also quite enjoyable.

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The route from Edinburgh to Berwick-upon-Tweed, leading away from this kingdom back to England, is only a small distance from the sea, which is never out of sight for long. It leads through Haddington and Dunbar, both of which are important places, but Haddington especially so. There is a harbour in Dunbar, although it is not often used. Here one can see the ruins of Dunbar Castle, where Queen Mary had been imprisoned, which has been damaged since. Below, the sea hits the rocks on which the castle was built. At first, the road to Berwick-upon-Tweed is populous. There are many pottery factories in this area and it is quite pleasant. After a while, one passes a great deal of fertile land, country estates, and a substantial amount of moors. The last stations are the best and the most mountainous. Some miles after passing Dunbar, an immensely high bridge spans across a small patch of water or rather a deep valley, over which the public road will run soon. It resembles an aqueduct more than an actual bridge. The pillar between the two middle bows is terribly high, and it is impossible to look down from the bridge into the deep without getting dizzy. The two pillars on both sides are shorter, and the following ones decrease in size proportionally. All pillars are made out of clinkers. There is not much left of what I wanted to say about Scotland. It is common knowledge that this kingdom sends 16 members to the Upper House, and 45 to the Lower House. The first are elected out of the nobility by the lords themselves; others are elected by the counties and cities, in the same manner as they do in England. However, because of the limited amount of members, several cities only elect one

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SCOTLAND member for the lot of them. As far as I know, Edinburgh is the only city that has the right to elect its own representative. Even with the best possible insights, the elected members lack the power to properly contend (or their home countrys interest in Parliament against all the English members. More importantly, the Ministry has also amassed an influence in the Scottish elections and the chosen members. Despite the powerful English suppression, Scotland has proven to show an increase in agriculture and plantations, trade and factories, and, because of that, inhabitants as well. Its cities are expanding and flourishing. Last year, the entire nation approved a plan to improve the fisheries, which was to be accomplished by attracting more fishermen to the western coast and by building villages for that purpose. This plan is backed by many, and it will transpire with subscription and with a payment of 50 pounds sterling each; subscribers should regard this sum as a generous donation rather than something that will accrue interest for them. If I am not mistaken, the Dutch herring ship owners have no reason to fear this competition. Recently, a publication by someone called Knox appeared, describin) both this plan and Scotlands current state in a very detailed manner. There is a major shortage of cash money in the kingdom, and banknotes of even the smallest sum are issued in each Scottish town with a bank, after which they circulate throughout the entire kingdom. I have already spoken a lot about the climate, products, and residents of this country. Because Scotland is surrounded by sea on all sides, the cold is

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JOHAN MEERMAN much more bearable than it would be at the same altitude on the mainland. Heavy storms and even earthquakes are no strangers to these parts. Northern England and a part of Scotland underwent earthquakes last year, and I saw a twenty- year-old pine forest that had only recently been severely damaged by a blast of wind, which had ripped out several Dutch morgens of trees. In this country, one finds ores, marbles, and stones of all kinds, as well as pretty topazes and agates, which are turned into rings and other valuables in Edinburgh. The yellower the topaz, the more valuable it is; in some parts, people pay five or more guineas for them. The thistles beauty is so renowned that a national order was named after it. After spending time with the Scots, I came to find them an honest, friendly, and hospitable people. Although they are devoted to their kingdom and its mountains, they are not as vain as people from many other regions seem to be. The Scotsman is so used to the En)lishmans derisions and contempt, that the moment one praises Scotland, he fails to spot ones sincerity, and will only accept ones compliments a(ter one has repeatedly assured him o( ones )oodwill. Hospitality is so common here that, whatever ones class, even the slightest recommendation from a stranger will almost certainly )uarantee one the ability to lod)e at a locals home. The notables castles all (eature a numerous amount o( guest rooms. This enables them to not only shelter all the people that they are somewhat acquainted with for two, three, or even more days, but also makes Scots able to visit each other frequently without giving notice and then spend some

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SCOTLAND time there. Naturally, this sort of hospitality does not exist in the big cities. In general, we can state that as a country grows in wealth, and is often visited by strangers, the virtue of hospitality decreases, or, to be more precise, can no longer be executed. It is a pity that drunkenness, the vice of the northern countries, is also present in Scotland. Even though the problem is less serious than it used to be, it is still somewhat common. The commoner uses whiskey or brandy to smother his sadness and poverty. The wealthy drink French red wine that is covertly brought into the country by Dutch ships and therefore costs about half of what they would charge in England. Decent people do not require one to drink strong liquor; however, the drunkards know each other, and there are quite a few houses and castles where people spend hours sharing a bottle, from lunch until midnight. Apart from that, Scotlands vices are (ew, not takin) into account the most populous places where decay starts and grows quickly. Religion has a notable influence. Although the Presbyterian Church is the largest, many inhabitants follow the Church of England, and most places feature an Episcopal church. In some places, it has become de bon ton for Presbyterians to go to an Episcopal church, and therefore they exchange worshipping the Supreme Being with the mumbling of formulaic prayers. The Scottish language deviates from the English language in many ways, particularly in the endings of words. Their way of talking is accompanied by a singing, or rather a crying tone, and their dialect has no shortage of songs; even the Englishmen find these songs pleasant, the Scotsmen are very

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JOHAN MEERMAN proud of them. Scottish music is very different from their southern nei)hbours music some sort o( ba)pipe is their national instrument. I have stayed at a castle where a musician would play the bagpipe outside every door to invite the guests to breakfast. Scotland also has its own traditional dances of which the reel is the most famous. Both music and dance are such a passion for Scotsmen that the time wasted on learning the first and, especially amongst girls, practicing the second, is almost unbelievable. The products and clothing of respectable people are very similar to that of the English. What I have already said about the workmanship of Scottish people living in the mountains is mostly true for the lower ranks of the entire kingdom. Both sexes wear clothes that are as simple as possible, but this is different for the people living in the mountains. When it comes to the food, I will remark here that a Scottish breakfast would amaze even an Englishman. The usual tea, coffee, butter, bread, cheese and the like are a crucial part of breakfast. However, apart from those, eggs, honey, and jams, which people spend a lot of time on and which are offered with the tea, even at the inns, are also a crucial part of their breakfast. Sometimes dried fish will be added as well. There is always more than enough food for people to enjoy. The dishes are generally more diverse and more tasteful than in the southern part of the island.

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Fig. 12: Map of Ireland, marked with places Meerman mentions in this chapter

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Havin) ended the last chapter with Scotlands capital, I will be)in this chapter with Irelands capital. Dublin :ay is believed to be one o( Europes (inest. When sailin) the 63 miles (rom Holyhead in Wales to Dublin, the (irst thin) one sees o( the bay is an openin) in the middle o( a lon) chain o( mountains which (orms the eastern coast o( Ireland. The bay slowly takes on a clearer (orm, and one will be able to see (ormations a)ainst the backdrop o( its semicircle sooner or later, dependin) on their size and hei)ht. “n the ri)ht side, a sin)le hi)h rock rises, (ollowed by plains stretchin) out until the capital. “n the le(t side, the mountains are more alike, all covered with estates and houses that are painted white. :ehind these houses, the steeper mountains (rom the ;ounty o( Wicklow can be seen stickin) out their cone-shaped tops. Dublin lies at the end o( this bay, which is estimated to be (ive miles lon) and three miles wide. It rises so(tly and unnoticeably, almost always hidden behind clouds o( dust and smoke. In this respect, the Gul( o( ’aples, which is o(ten compared to Dublin :ay, is in(initely more beauti(ul because in ’aples the city rises all the way to the top o( the mountain. The tide o(ten makes it impossible (or travellers to reach land. When this is the case, travellers are redirected to Dún Lao)haire, a small town on the le(t side o( the bay. Here poverty mani(ests in the most un)racious (orm and ra))ed be))ars appear in a most astonishin) (ashion. A )ood, pleasant road leads into town. Just like in London, people usually do not stay in inns here, but rather rent their own private lod)in)s on a weekly or monthly basis. These lod)in)s are not as expensive as they are in London, but at the same

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JOHAN MEERMAN time they are nowhere near as )ood they are nothin) more than simply dis)race(ul. Dublin is shaped like a circle, approximately three quarters the size o( Amsterdam, with an estimated 25,000 people livin) all over the city. The River Li((ey, a narrow and dirty river, divides the city in two be(ore (lowin) into the bay. “n either side o( the Li((ey, the city stretches alon)side a quay, which expands beyond the city to the bay. There are (ive brid)es unitin) the northern and southern parts o( Dublin, o( which the Essex :rid)e and the Queens :rid)e, the (irst and (ourth brid)es (rom the direction o( the sea, are the prettiest. The ships, always moored in the harbour, cannot sail beyond the Essex :rid)e. ;ustoms, which investi)ates travellers )oods althou)h not particularly care(ully, is located here as well. “n the le(t side o( the river and a little bit (urther down, a new ;ustoms buildin) is bein) constructed. The buildin) may become so beauti(ul that no other known continent would be able to boast such beauty (or its ;ustoms and hope(ully its splendour will boost Irelands trade exponentially. It will cost more than (ive million Dutch )uilders. It is constructed (rom ”ortland stone and built in the Doric, (eaturin) arcades, alcoves, and statues decoratin) it (rom top to bottom. The pleasant ”hoenix ”ark, where one can take walks and drive around, is located at the western ed)e o( the city, next to the river and some (orts. The estates around here belon) to the viceroy and some other well-o(( people. There is a bare boulevard extendin) in a circle sli)htly out o( Dublin, which is called the ;ircular Road. For several years, the people have

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IRELAND been di))in) a canal, startin) in Dublin, and it is already 22 miles lon). It will connect with the River :arrow. A canal boat, in addition to the (rei)hters, travels to and (rom Kildare daily. The extension o( this canal inspired plans to connect the entire kin)dom throu)h waterways. There are some pretty locks in this canal. From the start, it is broader than most Dutch canals, and it continues to broaden the (urther it )oes. The nearby mountains supply it with water. Up until the (irst brid)e, which is (inely built, there is a driveway and a walkway on both sides. A lon) basin, surrounded by a berceau, collects the canals surplus water. Throu)h pipes, which even )o under the Li((eys brid)es, the basin supplies all o( Dublins streets and houses with water. :etween this basin and the so-called harbour, the canal is nothin) but a spacious ditch. In (ront o( the inner harbour where ships and boats are anchored, a small warehouse has been built. Few cities are )enerally as well desi)ned as Irelands capital, with its strai)ht and broad streets, pretty squares, and beauti(ul private and public buildin)s. These buildin)s are made bi))er and better each day. St Stephens Green is an extensive square (ield with a statue o( either Kin) Geor)e I or Geor)e II in the middle o( it. Its pedestal is a bit too bi) (or my likin). St Stephens Green also invites one to take a shaded walk and has (our rows o( houses on all sides. It is a real jewel on the southern side o( the city. Some new streets and houses have been built in the past years near the square. ;olle)e Green, the square in (ront o( the university buildin), leads towards Dame Street. A statue o( a horseman has been erected here to honour Willem III, who

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JOHAN MEERMAN is closely allied to the Irish. It is meant to inspire remembrance in the residents. The northern part o( the city also has excellent si)hts I am re(errin), in particular, to the semicircle o( buildin)s around the midwi(es hospital )ardens. From these buildin)s, which are separated by the street with barred windows, the )arden, as well as other lar)e squares, is visible. Some o( the houses in the newer streets are built symmetrically accordin) to a (ixed plan. As (ar as the exterior o( the houses )oes, (ounders are required to adhere to the )overnment-re)ulated plan, but the interior can be arran)ed as one sees (it. Stran)ely enou)h, the houses built this way are not the (ounders property, but are rented to them by the )overnment. Due to a law statin) that it is ille)al to rent out any property (or a thousand years or more, the (ounders rent the property (or 999 years, which means that, in practice, they hold it (orever. An even more beauti(ul street will stretch (rom the south o( the city to the north in a short while. ;onsiderin) this street will cross the Li((ey, there will also be a new brid)e, but it need not be as hi)h as the Essex :rid)e. Trinity ;olle)e, Dublins university buildin), deserves (irst place amon)st the citys attractions. It has a (acade denotin) )ood architecture and more than one basse cour on the inside. :ehind the buildin) one can also take a pleasant, shaded walk around a (ield. The (irst o( the courtyards is also the primary and most beauti(ul one, and is in the process o( bein) redecorated. “n the ri)ht side, they are buildin) a win) whose (ront displays (our pillars and a (ronton on top o( them. Inside, there is a pretty, lon) hall, which at the time o( writin) is empty except (or a covered mausoleum o( one o( the

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IRELAND pro(essors. The ceilin) is decorated colour(ully. The main purpose o( the hall will be to host public academic recitations, exams, and the like. “n the le(t side, some existin) buildin)s will be torn down to construct a new win) there. “n one side o( the second basse cour, a library (eaturin) a )allery makes a beauti(ul impression. Similar to the previous court, the houses, and quarters o( the students and lecturers, are separated (rom each other by a (airly unimportant chapel. From this courtyard, one reaches the park. “n the le(t side, there is an old printin) house and a decorative buildin) with colons. “pposite to it, there is a win) containin) a collection o( minerals on the )round (loor and the anatomy win) upstairs. The anatomic theatre has little that is worth mentionin), apart (rom the skeleton o( a renowned Irish Giant o( seven (eet tall. ;lose to it, there are some rooms that contain the most beauti(ul wax (i)ures. It is a collection o( works by a French artist, who worked on it (or 40 years. The collection was )iven to Lord Shelburne when he was the viceroy it is known as the (irst o( its kind in Europe. There are nearly a dozen )lass showcases (eaturin) li(e-sized sculptures o( people. ‘ost o( them portray women in labour, or women displayed in such a way that one can discern a childs position in the womb. Furthermore, one can see the dissection o( various parts o( the body and statues o( men and children as well. There is a statue o( a child who has a sin)le eye in the middle o( the (orehead, just like a ;yclops, and one with two eyes very close to each other. I cannot jud)e the anatomical correctness o( these however, the expressions on their (aces, the liveliness o( their sadness and sorrow, the carvin) o( the

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JOHAN MEERMAN bodies, and the natural colouration deserve the hi)hest praise. ‘en and women are not allowed to visit these rooms at the same time. The library consists o( a lon) and somewhat broad )allery, with some quarters at the end where the manuscripts and prints are kept. The two walls are divided up into cells that contain the books. There is a balcony above the )allery (rom which one can )o around the room as well. The entire collection consists o( )i(ts (rom private individuals, and, as is customary, all their works stay to)ether. Supervision is entrusted to three librarians, and those who are not members o( the library are not allowed to touch any o( the books without the presence o( one o( them. I( one is a member, the collection is available daily until 1300pm. There are many lar)e theolo)ical and antiquarian works, but only a (ew rare ones. A tenth century )ospel book is the oldest work in their collection. The colle)e also owns a museum o( natural products and other rarities, located in a bi) square chamber. :esides some o( the local minerals, which one cannot (ind anywhere else, the most curious piece here is de(initely the accurate, unpainted, wooden model o( the renowned Giants ;auseway (rom ’orthern Ireland. I will say more about the actual place later. The model is approximately (our (eet hi)h and resembles a trian)le. “nly two o( the sides are chiselled, which is also the case with the ori)inal. Apart (rom what I have mentioned, the museum has no other si)ni(icant objects. The university, which is the only one on the island, has 800 students, only 300 o( which live on campus. The other students live all over the city. The way everythin) is set up and the way

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IRELAND students dress, closely resembles the En)lish tradition. Everythin) depends on the (ellows and not the pro(essors who only )ive a (ew public lectures. All the youn) people who live on campus eat to)ether (rom wooden plates in one hall, re)ardless o( their rank. There seems to be an endless supply o( mutton and ve)etables however, on Sundays, they eat roast bee(. The lecturers sit crossways (rom the students and are not treated much better than them. The students quarters are decent on the inside. When steppin) throu)h this buildin)s tall (ront )ate and reachin) the ;olle)e Green a)ain, one (inds the new ”arliament House on the ri)ht. It is in(initely more beauti(ul and suitable (or its purpose compared to Great :ritains ”arliament House. “n the inside, it only has an Ionic colonnade, which has two win)s extendin) (orward. :ehind the colonnade, a low dome rises in the middle. Inside, a square hall surrounds the dome quarters, where the House o( ;ommons meets. In this (air hall, the benches (or the approximately 400 members are arran)ed in a spiral, and in the middle o( it are the chairs (or the speakers. Above all o( this, there is a very spacious )allery (or those who are not members. Women are allowed to enter and they show that they are indeed worthy o( this privile)e by (requently makin) use o( it. The House o( Lords is situated on the other side o( the buildin), in a lon) and old-(ashioned hall. The tapestries here represent some o( Irelands national victories. The benches o( the Lords and the woolsacks o( the Lord ;hancellor and the jud)es are made (rom red cloth, just like in London. The viceroy only appears on the occasions when his

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JOHAN MEERMAN master comes to a meetin) o( the :ritish parliament, and when this happens, the viceroy assumes a throne similar to that o( the jud)es. I( one )oes to Dame Street (rom here, one will (ind the stock exchan)e on the le(t a(ter about a (ive-minute walk. It has only recently been (inished. There is no European equivalent to its sort, just like what I said about the ;ustoms buildin). There is nothin) built on three sides o( this buildin), allowin) one to see the beauti(ul (acades. The (ront (acade has the most )or)eous architecture and (eatures two stairs with pretty balustrades. As the )round upon which it is built is not (lat but irre)ular, the stairs are not o( the same len)th. ”assin) throu)h six proud, ;orinthian columns, one reaches a dome equal in nobility. However, in here one only (inds a mediocre statue o( the present monarch. The dome is surrounded by a square hallway with an ele)ant ceilin). Two tall staircases lead upstairs, where a lon) co((ee hall leads to the (ront o( the buildin). At the back, the hallways lead to several rooms which are meant (or handlin) a((airs. “n one o( the stairs, a statue has been erected in honour o( a Dr Lucas, a (amous politician, who has recently passed away. There are spacious cellars underneath this buildin). Un(ortunately, even thou)h the street that be)ins in (ront o( the stock exchan)e and heads north over the Essex :rid)e is quite broad, it is not broad enou)h to allow one to view the stock exchan)es entire (acade. ”assin) throu)h a )ate and headin) past a corps de )arde located behind the stock exchan)e, one reaches the courtyard o( the viceroys palace. It is a relatively bi) but simple

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IRELAND buildin). There is nothin) worth mentionin) on the inside, and with each new resident the suite o( (urniture chan)es. Further south, the Duke o( Leinster has a pretty inn that is worth visitin). The (ront and back (acades o( the buildin) are )ood but simple. “ne o( them (aces a courtyard, separated (rom the street by a beauti(ul )ate the other one (aces a small )rass (ield, and (urther on a part o( town that is not yet (inished. “ne can see all the way to the sea and the mountains (rom this side. “ne o( the rooms upstairs is the most noteworthy in the inn. It is oblon) and has a deli)ht(ully colour(ul ceilin). The walls are decorated with beauti(ul paintin)s and inlaid marble tables are set a)ainst the pillars. Furthermore, the mantelpiece has been decorated as (inely as damask (urniture in the entire kin)dom. Above the (ireplace are semicircular cove blank windows in (ront o( which stands an admirable, white marble statue o( Adonis. The centre window has enchantin) landscapes painted on the panes in a modern style. In one o( the other rooms, one (inds a bust o( ’iobe, which has been care(ully brou)ht over (rom Italy, just like the statue o( Adonis. In the dukes library one (inds the ori)inal death warrant a)ainst Kin) ;harles I o( En)land, si)ned by all the jud)es. I will not write about the courthouse, as there is nothin) noteworthy about it. There are (our main courthouses in this kin)dom, equal in power to those o( En)land. Dublins theatre would not have been badly built, were it not (or the (act that everythin), includin) the decorations, is dirty and (aded. The people o( this nation appreciate the theatre even more than the En)lish do. A(ter per(ormin) in

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Dublin (or a while, the actors disperse to the other primary cities o( the kin)dom, until the winter season brin)s them back to the capital a)ain. En)land owes it to Ireland to send over some o( its best actors the Irish who have the talent required (or this pro(ession, especially in comedy, are not (avoured by nature (or this job. Dublins theatre is like the one in London in the way that the audience makes a horrible amount o( noise durin) the breaks and also in the sense that all sorts o( improper thin)s happen. The town has two cathedrals, althou)h both are more like stables than reli)ious buildin)s. “ne o( them is dedicated to St ”atrick and the other to ;hrist. The monuments dedicated to Swi(t and ”rior are the only attractions (or a visitor o( these cathedrals. In the (irst church, one will (ind the banners o( the kni)hts belon)in) to the newly established “rder o( St ”atrick. There is also another church in this nei)hbourhood, which has a decent (acade. The Foundlin) Hospital and The Royal Hospital Kilmainham (or invalid soldiers are both on this side o( the city. The decorations o( the Foundlin) Hospital are remarkable and worth mentionin) the buildin) resembles a similar establishment in ”aris, but exceeds it in many ways. It is estimated that around 2,000 children are brou)ht to live in this place each year. They come (rom Dublin, as well as (rom every corner o( the entire kin)dom. Sometimes the children are brou)ht here in )roups and driven to Dublin in a cart. The men and women who brin) them are not asked any questions about why they brin) them. Since they cannot be certain that these children are already baptised, they are all baptised at the

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IRELAND chapel in the hospital buildin). All the children are also marked on their ri)ht arm with a permanent si)n. Almost without exception, they are sent to the countryside the day a(ter they arrive, where they will be nursed until they reach the a)e o( ei)ht. There is no shorta)e o( wet nurses the hospital keeps a list o( wet nurses, and a wet nurse is only placed on it i( she is hi)hly recommended by the minister or another trustworthy person in her villa)e. They receive three pounds sterlin) (or their work in the (irst year, and two pounds sterlin) (or any consecutive years. Apart (rom that, the only thin) they are )iven are clothes (or the children, which they are )iven when they arrive at the Foundlin) Hospital. I( the children are still alive on the day they are arran)ed to return to the hospital, they come back dressed in the ra)s their stepmothers have clothed them with. Then they are )iven their uni(orms. The way I see it, this process o( chan)in) the old clothes (or the uni(orm should be sped up, to protect the buildin) (rom vermin. The children are vaccinated and tau)ht how to read, write, spin, and knit they also learn other cra(ts. Twice a week, they eat cooked bee(. The )overnment supports this bene(icial establishment by )ivin) it 8,000 pounds sterlin) annually. In addition, there are other ways o( (undin), and i( these (all short, the ;rown supplements the missin) amount. The expenses o( this hospital are estimated to be at least 13,000 to 14,000 pounds sterlin) a year. “verall, they are very (ru)al here, and thin)s are done in an orderly and accurate manner, especially when it comes to keepin) a re)ister o( the children comin) in. They re)ister the childrens circumstances, as well

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JOHAN MEERMAN as the place they are sent to. ‘others whose shame(ul conditions or poverty (orced them to send their children to be brou)ht up in this unnatural way can there(ore claim back their precious children when their situation has improved. The hospital buildin) itsel( is not noteworthy. The Royal Hospital Kilmainham (or invalid soldiers, however, is a very lar)e, square-shaped colossus in ordinary style. It is located at the western ed)e o( the city, near ”hoenix ”ark. There is a courtyard in the middle o( it, a shaded )arden in the back and trees all around the buildin). Its (unction is to shelter retired and disabled soldiers, around 400 o( whom live in the hospital at the time o( writin). ‘any others are also taken care o( at home. There is enou)h space to shelter more o( them in the hospital i( necessary. The soldiers must share their beds with another soldier, and all the rooms have around (ive beds. They dine in the same way as they do in similar establishments in London they all eat to)ether in a lon) hall. The wooden ceilin) o( the chapel (eatures an excellent artistic sculpture o( han)in) (lower (estoons however, people have lon) ne)lected to clean the dust (rom it. The o((icers have very decent quarters in this hospital, and the )overnor has his own house with a )arden next to it. “n the other side o( the river, there are many noteworthy buildin)s. The barracks (orm a lar)e perimeter and are well- desi)ned, with courtyards on the inside. The citys entire )arrison, consistin) o( (ive re)iments o( in(antry and one o( cavalry althou)h the total number is less than 2,000 men can be (ound here, since the militia stays in these sorts o( )arrisons all over the kin)dom.

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I pass another church, one o( considerable size and built more alon) the common desi)n, without comment, be(ore I arrive at a maternity hospital. The hospital has an exquisite (ront (acade, adorned with columns. The layout o( the house (ully complies with its requirements. There are several rooms, some o( which provide more beds than others, to accommodate poor women (or (ree. They are nourished and cared (or by skilled physicians and obstetricians throu)hout labour, delivery, and recovery. There is room (or more than 50 women at a time, but it rarely happens that all beds are occupied. ’o woman is admitted here, no matter how close she is to her delivery, unless she shows the (irst si)ns o( bein) in labour. I( the labour pains pass and the child has not been born a(ter 36 hours, they make her leave the hospital a)ain. Similarly, they do not permit the women to stay a minute lon)er than her weakness requires. As soon as they can bear to eat meat a)ain, they are )iven mutton thrice a week and nothin) else. They are not )iven ve)etables or (ish. All other days they receive soup. “ne particular room is meant (or the women that can already leave their beds, which is called the Recuperation Room. The actual birthin) also takes place in a room speci(ically desi)nated (or this purpose. The nursin) is entrusted to a (ew women, which speaks (or itsel(. The entire institution is (unded by private individuals. The number o( contributors is the same number o( people who have control over the institute. ‘oreover, the revenue o( the rotunda, another maternity hospital o( which I will speak soon, is used (or this hospital. The present institute is re)arded as the lar)est o( its sort and praised just as equally

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(or its use(ulness. In London, a similar hospital must have (ollowed the Dubliner model and, while I have ne)lected to visit it, people in Ireland make certain not to compare the desi)n o( the London institute with the one I just described. En)lish physicians also disa)ree completely with the Irish physicians re)ardin) the diet o( mutton (or new mothers. The rotunda is located ri)ht next to the hospital a circular buildin), without pillars inside, and with a diameter o( about two-thirds o( the size o( the Ranela)h Gardens in London. For the rest, it is used (or the same purpose and li)hted with )lass bells. ”resently, another beauti(ul rectan)ular hall is built adjacent to it. The lovely )arden, which runs behind the hospital and the rotunda and provides the city with si)ni(icant embellishment, especially due to the houses that surround it, is enclosed by a pleasantly shaded promenade. The inside is open (or the most part. Lord ;harlemonts townhouse is one o( the buildin)s that (aces this )arden. Apart (rom a (ew )ood paintin)s in some o( the rooms, the noblemans library deserves all our attention. Lord ;harlemont is the one who procured the collection in the library and who still expands it with knowled)e and taste. A lon) hallway, decorated with old and new busts and vases, leads to the (irst drawin) room it is (urnished in the same way rather than with books. Amon)st other thin)s, there are two beauti(ul busts o( Lord ;hester(ield and Lord ;hatham. The hall that (ollows is the actual library. It is built in a proper manner and holds a lar)e number o( remarkable works, mostly antiquarian, historical and belles-lettres. :ehind these works are a couple o( cabinets with illustrated books,

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IRELAND drawin)s, and so on. Additionally, a couple o( new halls are built onto the complex. The wonder(ul collection o( paintin)s, belon)in) to a ‘r Stuart, should not be overlooked by travellers. The collection consists almost completely o( valuable pieces, amon)st which is a ”eter ”aul Rubens, depictin) the baby Jesus in the man)er, which stands out even more amon)st the others. The linen market, where, at appointed times, this si)ni(icant branch o( Irish prosperity is exchan)ed, consists o( an outstretched buildin), divided over several courtyards, and which is or)anised similarly to the one in ;hester. Dublin, which I have described in its localities and its main peculiarities, and which does not have to stand aside (or many other capitals in this part o( the world, loses in(initely to all o( them i( one looks at it (rom its citizens point o( view. I almost do not dare to be)in to describe the ne)li)ence, (ilthiness and poverty o( the lowest o( them, because I am a(raid no one would believe me. Let me (irst mention that most o( the women and children, and even many o( the men, walk around bare(oot. Yet, who could ima)ine that, under the rule o( the :ritish ‘inistry and in the primary city o( the Kin)s estate besides London, at least two thirds o( Dublins inhabitants walk around like be))ars, dressed in )arments, which, riddled like sieves, exhibit holes o( various sizes and are only distin)uishable by patches o( di((erent colours? These )arments deserve no admiration whatsoever the bearers, however, do. For donnin) and do((in) the )arments without them (allin) to pieces on the (loor must be an art, unless the

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JOHAN MEERMAN di((iculty o( this task does not already (orce them to wear these )arments as both day and ni)ht attire. Who could ima)ine because common decency prohibits me (rom talkin) about their under)arments, which are completely similar to their )arments that such an attire, in a )reater or lesser state o( misery, is not limited to the dre)s o( the nation, o( both sexes, but has extended to such people who would be an)ered to be counted amon)st the ri((ra((? It has extended to the bour)eois o( the city, to domestic servants – inso(ar as they do not wear clothin) )iven to them – and even to the houses o( lords and people we would )ive the title o( )entleman or )entlewoman. In short, who could ima)ine that, (or anyone who has not wholly assumed the dress o( a lady or lord, an undama)ed skirt and an undama)ed dress worn durin) the week at least, is somethin) special? I cannot stress enou)h that this must be taken seriously and that I am not exa))eratin). Respectable men, who have never or very seldom le(t their homeland, have )rown so used to this piti(ul si)ht that the astonishment o( a (orei)ner about somethin) so unparalleled in any district and any city brin)s them to wonder. Think then o( the means o( existence that a city like Dublin, where extensive trade is conducted, has where, apart (rom the linen (actory, silk, hal(-silk and cotton cloths are manu(actured in addition to )lass and other dry )oods and, like London, has a ;ourt, a ”arliament, a variety o( societies, military a((airs, and even a university there where the nobility and the wealth o( the kin)dom reside part o( the year I say, i( one thinks o( the means o( existence that such a

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IRELAND capital o((ers, then, one has to realise that the sources (rom which this shabbiness (low has to be either a laziness which pre(ers to withstand anythin) rather than work or, an innate and throu)h education enhanced indi((erence towards somethin) unbecomin) that they share with almost all the townspeople or, a play(ulness and debauchery which causes them to want to spend their daily earnin)s on entertainment rather than on the necessities o( li(e. All three o( these reasons taken to)ether, e((ectuate, without a doubt, the phenomenon o( which I spoke. “ne cannot ima)ine a starker contrast than when comparin), in this respect, the Irish inhabitants with the inhabitants o( Germany and France, who would sacri(ice their last dime (or a beauti(ul dress, even i( without the petticoat, and who would, rather than havin) to (ore)o this, pre(er to su((er the hardest work and endure the most pressin) hun)er. “ne can easily understand that the disorder, which has risen in one part o( Dublin, does not de(ine the entire city, and it brin)s about a ne)li)ence which is evident in everythin). Un(ortunately, the haze o( dust, which nearly always leaves the city, as i( buried beneath it when the weather is dry, and which can be remedied with waterin) carts, also contributes to this. The splendour o( the )reat inexplicably sticks out like a sore thumb a)ainst this miserable situation o( the common people. It is not so much re)ardin) clothin), because this is utterly En)lish, but re)ardin) the meals and reception, in which the crowds and the quality and preparation o( (ood exceeds Londons by (ar. The cheapness o( the (ood products contributes to this as well. The usual dinner time here is also

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JOHAN MEERMAN at the end o( the a(ternoon around (ive oclock. The etiquette o( the viceroys ;ourt is modelled a(ter the etiquette o( St James ;ourt. “ccasionally the court hosts levees, holds balls, and the women sometimes appear in sakken, but also sometimes in robes de cour, (it to receive even the Queen o( Great :ritain. It is stran)e that, even thou)h all the streets in Dublin are suited with excellent pavements on both sides and there is no lack o( pleasant walks, it is uncommon, contrary to what happens in London, (or respectable ladies to )o outdoors on (oot. :y contrast, there is no lack o( carria)es o( all sorts around here hackney coaches, palanquins, low-slun) and short stretched chaises with one horse, little open carria)es which seem to consist o( two or three benches placed with the backs to each other and which can seat an entire (amily. There are only a (ew co((ee houses. However, newspapers, devoted to a certain party, can be (ound there daily. That is not even countin) the ones that are delivered to the Irish (ive times a week (rom London because that is how o(ten the mail boats sail back and (orth between Dublin and Holyhead74.

74 Footnote by Meerman Here I must remark that the postal communication in the three kingdoms is arranged in such a way that there is no post on Sundays in the capitals. And if this sometimes becomes unavoidable due to the fickleness of the winds or the poor state of the road, they try to solve these incidents by delivering the mail on Saturday or Monday. Furthermore, all letters for the whole of Ireland have to pass through the General Post office in Dublin, like all international post for the three kingdoms has to pass through the one in London.

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The area does not lack )ood architects and sculptors however, in the (ield o( science and considerin) the abundance o( people who have been celebrated (or their outstandin) work, Dublin (alls (ar behind London and Edinbur)h. In addition, bookstores are not well-stocked on authors writin) about their city and the kin)dom, which is un(athomable to me. ’ear this capital, which is remarkable in so many ways, it is common to visit Rath(arnham ;astle, the country estate o( Lord Lo(tus, to which I was unable to )et access. Additionally, on the north side o( the bay, it is common to visit ‘arino House, the country estate o( Lord ;harlemont whose palace in Dublin I have already described. The buildin) does not hold anythin) remarkable except (or a windowpane, painted by John Wesley Jarvis, depictin) a (lower arran)ement. Such windowpanes, althou)h o( less value, can also be (ound in a Gothic buildin) on the estate. Its most valued treasure, however, is a beauti(ul square temple o( the Doric order with staircases protrudin) (rom all (our sides, balustrades, and alto)ether (airly decorated. Extensive basements are located underneath it. “n the inside, everythin) is suitable to the household o( a youn) )entleman, but it is un(inished. Upstairs there is a beauti(ul view (rom a terrace. Apart (rom that, ‘arino House consists mostly o( a park, which is (illed with deer and sheep, with several paths o( ever)reens between them, a sweet pool o( water, and a hermita)e. It is worth ridin) up alon) the river (or about twenty miles and visitin) some o( the beauti(ul pleasure )ardens and palaces belon)in) to well-o(( Irish people. The Li((eys

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JOHAN MEERMAN peculiarity is that the valley throu)h which it runs, (or its entire course, is almost as wide as the riverbed itsel(, and the mountains on either side rise only to some de)ree and are o( similar hei)ht to one another (rom above, they are practically (lat. A)ainst the incline o( the mountains, one will see buildin)s o( splendour and style, jumbled and crammed to)ether, most o( which are surrounded by public )ardens. “ne can also see cabins which, in destitution, cannot be compared to anythin) but to various villa)es and other populous places. The road, vastly planted, runs alon) the river most o( the time, then markedly close to it, and then with some hei)ht in between. The Li((ey (lows reasonably (ast and creates several water(alls throu)hout its course scattered alon) it are lovely natural brid)es as well as a (ew made (rom rou)h wood. The estates are most distin)uishable in this re)ion, in particular one which is called ;astletown House and belon)s to Lord ;onolly. The mansion is )or)eous (rom the outside, and the corps de lo)is is connected to two win)s by a colonnade. Inside there are two beauti(ul vestibules. “ne o( them contains a royal staircase that leads to a hall, ei)ht windows in len)th and decorated with arabesques, but they have su((ered (rom the dampness o( the walls. The hall holds a multitude o( very )ood books, charmin) busts o( old and new masters, as well as a couple o( statues, antique vases, and so (orth. The estate consists only o( a (orest lined all around a lar)e portion o( (ield this (orest is (ull o( the (airest risin) trees o( all kinds that one could ever wish to see. They are o( such hei)ht and

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IRELAND luxurious ve)etation that cannot o(ten be (ound in En)land, except (or a multitude o( other lower shrubbery. A little area, very close to here, belon)in) to someone named Dean ‘arle, presents a residence entirely constructed o( Gothic windows. The promenades run under pleasant (olia)e, past and between rocks, and alon) the Li((ey, which splits itsel( and reunites (ormin) water(alls. At the end o( this promenade one can see a cotton mill, the only one in this Kin)dom, or so I have been told. ;arton House, the estate belon)in) to the Duke o( Leinster, resembles ;astletown House. The promenades are desi)ned accordin) to the common En)lish style, and they are pleasantly located. “n the other side o( a little strip o( water, one perceives a much more untamed (orest. The ve)etable )ardens and )reenhouses here are o( an extraordinary expanse. A mile (rom here, the Duke owns a most charmin) laiterie, surrounded by the most beauti(ully planted little hills, and with a pond at its base. The house resembles a sort o( (armers residence, where one )oes to eat cream, have break(ast, and the like all the (urniture that belon)s to it is made o( wood. At General Sand(orts countryseat, near Leixlip, one walks alon) an untamed lane (or about a quarter o( an hour. The lane runs alon) the Li((ey and throu)h a droopin) (orest, where, at the end, one can view the most splendid water(alls o( the river, called the Salmon Leap. It is called the Salmon Leap because salmon is o(ten cau)ht here when it tries to leap up the current o( the (all. There are several water(alls to)ether, but one deserves the most attention it pulls the

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JOHAN MEERMAN entire river to)ether, and then hurtles the water down a depth o( ei)ht (eet alon) the width o( (ive. An arch, (urnishin) a brid)e, was built across it, leadin) (rom one side o( the Li((ey to the other. “n the hills, on each side, art buildin)s have been constructed. It is a shame, however, that there is no viewpoint on the side o( the walkway where one can see the entire sequence o( water(alls at once. :etween Leixlip and the capital, one (inds the villa)e o( Lucan on the ri)ht bank o( the river, and not even six (eet (rom the riverbed, a mineral sprin) which is (requented o(ten. The water is cold, with the taste o( that in Harrow)ate, and likewise bene(icial a)ainst scorbutic, and similarly related diseases. The mountain ran)es o( the county Wicklow, south o( Dublin, can now boast bolder beauties than the hems o( the Li((ey, and while it takes about three days to properly visit them, one will not be inclined to complain about it. “ne continues ahead over several miles o( uninterrupted plains, always accompanied by these hi)h, cone-shaped barren- topped mountains, o( which the most prominent one is called Su)arloa(, until one is suddenly (orced to climb. :e(ore lon), one (inds onesel( in the Scalp a narrow but not very lon) pass between two cli((s. These must have been ripped (rom each other with such terrible (orce and in such a way that the severance caused a per(ect pulverisation with )ruesome heaps o( stacked stone lumps o( various sizes still visible on both sides. From here one )oes between the cli((-(aces into a narrow, wooded valley. At the (ar end o( the valley, one can admire the deli)ht(ul water(all o( ”owerscourt, which I,

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IRELAND un(ortunately, could not see in all its (orce, due to a prolon)ed drou)ht. The water(all pours almost per(ectly strai)ht down (rom a rock o( about 80 (eet hi)h. The resultin) (ormation below is very Romanesque. Lord ”owerscourt, the owner o( this valley, has his estate, ”owerscourt House, not (ar (rom here. The manor has a proper (acade, but the inner-quarters, due to on)oin) repairs, are stripped o( their (urniture and spoiled by moisture. A )reat hall with columns, an octa)on room laid with cedar wood, and a lar)e maho)any staircase are the only e((ects that deserve commentary. Except (or the splendid driveway, the site consists in lar)e part o( a small shaded terrace built around a ve)etable )arden, and (rom which one has the most beauti(ul views o( the surroundin) mountains and the sea. ’owhere else in the three kin)doms have I seen more or taller laurel trees than here. The Devils Glen is situated a (ew hours away. It is a strait, passin) between two hi)h cli((s, extendin) nearly one mile in len)th and in the shape o( an elbow. A river courses throu)h it with )reat tumult, (ormin) several small water(alls alon) the way, and near the point where it pours itsel( into the valley lies a salmon leap like the one I described near Leixlip. The road, which one could also travel alon), stretches alon) the le(t side o( this river, and runs down its same course. “n this side, the steep mountains are completely covered in (orest, most o( which consist o( oak trees on the other side, one (inds little other than rocks, althou)h the owner has sou)ht to plant a park here and there as well. The majesty o( the rocks on both sides, the lar)e lumps o( stone, does not allow description

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JOHAN MEERMAN which approximates ideas o( the ori)inal si)hts sometimes they overhan), sometimes, especially in the water, they lay as i( they have been hurled down (rom up hi)h. Hal(way, at considerable hei)ht, some kind o( summer cotta)e is located where one can see part o( the chasm. :ut i( one takes the trouble to climb a staircase leadin) throu)h the (orest, over and in between rock, to reach the top o( the mountain, one will not only see the whole chasm but even a lar)e area in circum(erence and the sea. Further alon), the )len slowly narrows on one end while at the other suddenly expands. ’ot (ar (rom here General ;unnin)ham has his country estate. The house is not very lar)e and it was boarded up recently and then decorated and capped with the most ele)ant coloured stucco. The construction o( the promenades is not (ar alon) yet. “n an elevation, where one enjoys an extensive view, a (olly has been built. Far (rom the house, the owner has built a cotta)e, in the middle o( a (orest on a mountain, throu)h which several openin)s have been cleared. This cotta)e is (or the use o( anyone who brou)ht cold (ood and wine, (or which it even holds some equipment. When describin) this area, the place o( banker La Touche, :ellevue House, also deserves some attention. A new residential buildin) is bein) constructed here althou)h it will stru))le to live up to the orderliness o( the Generals residence, it will be just as beauti(ul. A hothouse, all to)ether 120 (eet lon), runs uphill (rom the bankers wi(es room towards a semicircular )lass corridor, where it is subsequently split into seven sections, and each o( the sections is always

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IRELAND hi)her than the previous one. The middle section depicts the corps de lo)is, and holds a kind o( circular )roup o( (lowers. The three win)s that have not yet been (urnished will be used to )row (ruit alon) the wall and the espaliers. It is obvious that the construction o( this )reenhouse has cost a lar)e sum o( money. What makes the place truly remarkable is the octa)onal dome built above the Glen o( the Downs, a wooded )lacial valley. From the dome, one looks down into the chasm on one side and it (aces wide-open countryside and the sea on the other side. The whole place is situated so hi)h up that one can sometimes even see the mountains o( Wales across the ’orth ;hannel. Indeed, the House is also conveniently located (or panoramic views. The chasm I mentioned be(ore is wider than the one in Leixlip and there(ore lacks any remarkable qualities. ’evertheless, in its hollow, there is a pleasant plain, which is irri)ated by a small river and (eatures a sequence o( (armlands and hay(ields. “n either side, the rock (ace is almost completely covered in ve)etation. In the distance, the vast landscape is adorned by a (ew, small, and pleasant country estates. Alon) the (oot o( The Great Su)arloa(, one will (inally arrive at the (ourth )len o( this area, which is called Dar)le. It is not particularly broad but it is nonetheless similar to the )lens I previously mentioned. The mountains that shape this )len, which are bold yet covered with ve)etation, are owned by various people. Similarly, on the other side, these people have summerhouses that are placed at various hei)hts across the cli(( alon) which the trail runs. The pleasantly shaded trail

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JOHAN MEERMAN sometimes runs throu)h a valley alon) a stream that at times (orms water(alls and other times continues almost entirely on the top o( the mountains. In certain places, the rocks rise above the trees and (orm walls, caves and the most peculiar (ormations. The ed)e o( one o( those (ormations, (rom which one looks down into a (ri)htenin) abyss, is called Lovers Leap Rock because it is said there once was a )irl who jumped down to take reven)e on her lover (or his in(idelity. Stories like this (requently seem to be attached to such places. The entire chasm is shaped like an elbow, similar to the Devils Glen. Aside (rom all these strikin) phenomena, the re)ion itsel( is already charmin) because o( its mountainous settin) and alternatin) landscape. :uildin)s are located on the various mountains all the way up to their rocky tops and the valleys carry the si)ns o( proper a)riculture. There are (orests o( oaks and other trees and many (ields o( hay, potatoes, and oats. “ccasionally, some peat lands can be seen in between. The vast estate o( General ;unnin)ham and its construction stand out in comparison to the others and all the houses and estates here have a more prosperous appearance. “n the other hand, the wretched (armers huts, which can be seen here as well as alon) the Li((ey in particular, and the ra)s worn by the inhabitants here as well as in the capital, are evidence o( their dire poverty. There are no towns to be encountered until one arrives at Wicklow, except (or the sea villa)e called :ray has some satis(actory inns. In ’ewry-:rid)e, 22 miles (rom Dublin, I (ound a more decent one where I spent two ni)hts. ‘y lack o( time did not permit me to visit the southern and western parts o( this kin)dom, nor the Lake o( Killarney,

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IRELAND which is (amous (or its natural beauty. ‘y readers will there(ore have to be satis(ied with the northern route and a trip to Giants ;auseway, which I will describe later. This northern route is the only one in Ireland on which post-horses are used. In addition, the road is used more (requently because many En)lishmen (ear seasickness and there(ore pre(er the detour via ”ortpatrick and Dona)hadee. Here, one makes a quick crossin), as opposed to the trans(er across the wider water between Holyhead and Dublin. It is )ood to see that the post chaises and postilions75 are just as decent as the ones in En)land, since almost all other objects on this island are covered in dirt. The road itsel( is also o(ten quite bad. The (irst towns one passes are Dro)heda and Dundalk. Dro)heda is a populous, pleasant place near the :oyne, close to the sea. Dundalk is stretched out and has a lar)e marketplace and commonplace buildin)s. It was established near a sea arm, where a (air number o( ships occasionally appear. Up until here, one continuously travels alon) the shore sometimes closer and sometimes a bit (urther away (rom the sea. The surroundin)s are mostly (lat, sometimes with rollin) hills, and the remainder o( the land is reasonably well-cultivated, particularly with potatoes and oats. Every now and then a rock appears. “ne will not (ind many country estates on this side o( Dublin, but instead, near Dundalk, there are many (orests. When leavin) this town behind, one will

75 Footnote by ‘eerman Althou)h I am not sure i( people who would rather drive a horse sitting on the chaise than on the horse itself, deserve that name.

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(ind that everythin) takes on di((erent shapes. “ne climbs a mountain and later descends into a narrow yet very pleasant valley. :oth sides o( the valley are covered in ve)etation occasionally a castle or estate o( a wealthy person chan)es the scenery. A(ter that, one encounters the bo)s, o( which the kin)dom has many. ”eat )rows here, i( I may express it in this manner, on )rounds that have not been cultivated (or a lon) time. Extremely dry, wholly (lammable wood can be (ound in the bo)s, which could be used (or torches. This peat is like Frisian peat li)ht, hi)hly (lammable and cut in almost the same shape. However, there is also a smaller and heavier kind. ’ewry is reasonably bi) and pleasant, located in an enchantin) valley and irri)ated by a river that (lows into the sea a (ew miles onward. :etween ’ewry, :anbrid)e, and Hillsborou)h, the surroundin)s are stunnin) and (ull o( the various chan)es o( scenery that can be encountered in mountainous re)ions. I saw a textile market in the small yet thrivin) town o( :anbrid)e. Every ‘onday, each (armer takes the piece he has woven the week be(ore and shows it to the merchants, whose benches stand side by side in the open air. The merchants examine each piece with just a )lance, write comments in a notebook and make an appropriate o((er durin) the public sale that is carried out a(terwards. Hillsborou)h is owned by the nobleman o( the same name, who sin)lehandedly built and improved the town. His modest castle is located on the southern side. The estate stretches out around hal( o( the town and has a beauti(ul pond. The town mainly consists o( one street and a lon) and wide market

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IRELAND square with a (ine market hall. The inn, a )ood buildin) located on the market square, was co(ounded by Hillsborou)h. He rents it to innkeepers who are even better than those in En)land. A ballroom in this buildin) occasionally brin)s to)ether all the noblemen in the area, even those livin) a couple o( miles away. At the northern side o( town, Lord Hillsborou)h had a Gothic church built with a beauti(ul tower. From the inside, it is a small, oblon), cross- shaped buildin). The windows are all painted in two or three colours and done in )ood and simple taste. There is also an or)an and a (ew monuments. An old castle once stood beside the church and the ramparts are still there, but this )round has now been chan)ed into a park with a bowlin) )reen. “ut o( all o( the buildin)s, only the vestibule remains, althou)h it was completely rebuilt and divided into halls and rooms. Aside (rom the views all around, the place is quite like the castle on Lord Stra((ords estate in Yorkshire. The entrance has been nicely laid out with an En)lish )arden and lawn. The entire valley o( Hillsborou)h and the town are extraordinarily pleasant, and the )ood taste o( the owners is visible in everythin) one comes across. Lisburn is just three miles (rom here a cheer(ul, well-built little town that su((ered (rom a (ire many years a)o. A Damask tablecloth (actory is attemptin) to brin) prosperity to this town. “ne travels to :el(ast throu)h a beauti(ul, well- cultivated area. ;ountry estates, townhouses and better (armers huts than anywhere else are (ound in a wide valley at uneven )round with hi)h mountains on the le(t side. :el(ast is

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JOHAN MEERMAN one o( the (inest cities in the north and one o( the lar)est tradin) towns in Ireland. It is (airly spread-out and contains )ood streets and buildin)s. A brid)e is placed near the bay where the city is established, and the harbour is always (ull o( ships. The linen market hall in this city is an immense, square colossus. The Stock Exchan)e, a smaller square buildin) supported by pillars, also contains a hall upstairs (or balls and )atherin)s. The buildin) o( the Episcopal ;hurch is neatly maintained and has an elon)ated shape, and has )alleries and an or)an. The tower proves the architects orderliness, even thou)h the top is made o( wood. The ”resbyterian ;hurch is oval and is rather lovely. The pulpit is at one end with a semicircular )allery on the opposite side. There is also a hospice with a )ood (acade in one o( the streets. The road (rom :el(ast to Dona)hadee continues over the most cheer(ul mountains ima)inable. I will continue to describe the route leadin) (rom Lisburn to the Giants ;auseway. The station between Lisburn and the town Antrim is equally captivatin), even thou)h the road is only reasonably well-paved. From the top o( a mountain not even hal(way alon) the road, Lou)h ’ea)h is quickly revealed in its entirety. It is a bi) square lake with several headlands and a smaller lake, with a tiny island in it, in (ront. When approachin) the lake and the town Antrim, which is situated close to the shore, more ve)etation is visible alon) the road. :ehind Antrim and close to the water, Shanes ;astle comes into view. The castle is owned by ‘r “’eill, who is a descendant o( the old Irish kin)s and one o( the wealthiest

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IRELAND individuals in the ’orthern Ireland. The castle is a bi) and square colossus, painted white as many o( the buildin)s in the kin)dom are. The architecture is not very beauti(ul the rooms are decent rather than ele)ant. There is a nice round wooden co((ee room with all its accompanyin) com(orts and ornaments as well as a servant who is present to serve drinks at certain times each day. There is also a lovely little theatre with all its embellishments outside the buildin) at the end o( a lon) hallway.76 Furthermore, there is a lar)e ballroom partly secured to the walls o( the castle and it is made entirely out o( canvas which makes it portable. A )reenhouse – or a )lass hall to describe it better – is (illed with plants. This hall characterises both the in)enuity and )ood taste o( the owner. The library is not noteworthy, althou)h it is a cheer(ul room. Several mechanical instruments are kept in a room downstairs. Since Shanes ;astle is not really an estate, the lar)e park is entirely enclosed by a wall, except (or the part leadin) to the lake. There is a separate place (or the deer. The land mostly consists o( hay(ields and is irri)ated by a river with a (ew brid)es across it. A hermita)e is placed at the (oot o( a mountain near the river and is, a)ain, in)eniously (urnished. The chair le)s, (or example, are made (rom (our outwardly turned ox horns and the arm rests are made (rom similar horns crossin) each other the seat is made o( buckskin the ceilin) o( the room is put to)ether with e))shells in plaster

76 Footnote by ‘eerman A talented )roup of musicians who sometimes (orm an orchestra are always at the service o( this house.

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JOHAN MEERMAN the )lass is painted, and so on. The entire property o( ‘r “’eill, which is located (or the lar)est part near Lou)h ’ea)h, is only sli)htly less than 90,000 Dutch mor)en since he does not own the lake. Except (or some parts o( the park, everythin) is available (or rentin). The small town called Randalstown is also owned by ‘r “’eill, and is located two miles away (rom the castle. He sends two associates (rom this town to parliament. He personally appears at parliament as well as he represents the county, where he has a lot o( in(luence compared to other parliament members. The subordinates are still accustomed to kneelin) when they meet their squire or his wi(e, which demonstrates the power o( the landowners in this area. However, when this power rests in the hands o( people with such amiable characters as the owners o( the hospitable Shanes ;astle, the (ate o( the subordinates is not to be pitied as much. As (or the lake it was called ’ea)h a(ter the Irish word (or white, due to its white )rounds. It is without a doubt the lar)est in the kin)dom. It receives ei)ht rivers o( which the main one is River :ann, which runs ri)ht throu)h the lake and ends in the sea. It is there(ore obvious that this lake must contain sweet water. The tides do not a((ect it yet, due to the heavy rain showers in the (all, the lake has a substantially di((erent water level durin) the winter as opposed to durin) the summer. There are lar)e numbers o( salmon and trout in both the rivers in this area and in nearly all the Scottish and Irish lakes. ”erch and other (ish can also be (ound in these rivers. ‘r “’eill sells the trout that are cau)ht in the river

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IRELAND that runs across his estate to the people o( the area (or a penny per dozen. He does this only to make up (or the cost o( the (ishin). The people salt the (ish and eat them with potatoes in the winter. A (yke net prevents the (ish (rom swimmin) up river, ensurin) their capture. ’ot (ar (rom the castle, there is a stony re)ion alon) the bank o( the lake. A closer look at the rou)h and de(ormed )rounds reveals some si)ns o( crystallised columns, which I will (urther describe when we reach Giants ;auseway. An entire (loor o( rou)h rocks is stretched out near the house and alon) the same bank. :e(ore the River :ann (lows (rom the lake to the sea, it (orms a small loch. ‘r “’eill owns an even more remote and solitary residence here. It is surrounded by a (orest with a (ootpath in it. The buildin), which has heather on the roo(, has three or (our neat rooms at the (ront. These rooms contain pretty oval windows. The wall is solely built out o( wood slats (illed up with plaster. “ccasionally, the walls inside buildin)s in this area are also (abricated this way. The (ront is covered with small cobblestones. The river runs approximately twenty miles (rom here to ;oleraine and (lows into the sea not (ar (rom this town. :oth banks are reasonably mountainous and run lar)ely across peaty soil. ;oleraine is split into two unequal parts by River :ann and is reunited a)ain by a well- built brid)e. It is a small and pleasant place with a market and a market hall. From here, one will travel over several mountains )ettin) continuously closer to the Giants ;auseway. Disre)ardin) a

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(ew other houses, the small place o( :ushmills is the nearest villa)e. The recently published work o( Hamilton,77 a minister (rom Dublin, which really deserved a translation, describes this queer natural phenomenon rather accurately. The illustrations by ‘rs Drury also provide a clear picture o( this, at least when one has seen the ori)inal. The entire northern coast o( the county o( Antrim and part o( the coast o( the island Ra)hery, which is situated not (ar (rom the shore, are made up o( hi)h cli((s. Alon) these cli((s, penta)onal, hexa)onal, and more an)ular basalt columns o( various hei)hts and with various de)rees o( per(ection can be (ound. These are similar to the ones inland I mentioned earlier, and to the ones that can be discovered mainly on certain mountaintops. Yet, they are not as (antastic or as intact as those on the actual causeway at least, in the parts that time and circumstance allowed me to visit. “n the (oot o( a sequence o( rocks that provide a rampart a)ainst the sea and that have steep slopes, there are (our headlands and three bays in between. A small stony (ootpath, sometimes close to the sea and sometimes un(oldin) alon) bends and hollows on the same level as the mountain, is the only beaten track that stran)ers can (ollow. As I un(ortunately experienced mysel(, the walk is not so pleasant when heavy rain makes the stones slippery and causes )rit to come down (rom the top o( the mountain and onto the (ootpath.

77 Footnote by ‘eerman Letters concerning the Northern Coast of the Country of Antrim. Dublin, octavo, 1786.

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:etween the (irst two headlands, counted (rom the le(t, one will descend. :oth are (ormed out o( rou)h and ru))ed cli((s that are only occasionally mixed with pieces o( basalt columns. These pieces are also scattered between other rocks spread out across the beach and are visible alon) the slopes that enclose the bays. The third headland in particular is called Giants ;auseway. A)ain, one will see three columns standin) next to each other and each is separated (rom the other by bi) round lumps o( ordinary stone. Each one is hi)her than the previous one. Each road, or rather each part o( each road, consists o( broken o(( basalt columns. Some pieces are perpendicular, others slanted, nearly horizontal or sometimes even curved. ’o matter what their shapes are, they are all clustered to)ether. As is widely known, each column consists o( pieces o( blackish, sli)htly porous rock o( similar hei)ht. They (it to)ether like reeds and where they come to)ether, one part curves inside and the other curves outside. The len)th o( each piece is around hal( a (oot and the thickness is a little over a (oot, althou)h this is not the case everywhere78. ‘ost rocks are shaped hexa)onally. However, there are also penta)onal shaped ones and some with seven or ei)ht an)les. I met a person who crosses this road daily and who seemed trustworthy, and i( she did not mislead me I can in(orm you that she counted up to nine an)les on one o( them. The most

78 Footnote by ‘eerman On the cabinet of His Glorious Highness, one will find a few of these pieces as well as Mrs Drurys illustration depictin) the ;auseway.

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JOHAN MEERMAN proportional an)ular side o( the columns ensures that they are always connected without leavin) any cavities. The columns in the causeways descend towards the sea similarly to the three causeways situated behind each other. However, it is not exactly the same there are some on which a person could walk as i( it were a smooth (loor, on others it is like walkin) down a (li)ht o( stairs, and yet others, althou)h smooth, are slanted. The rear wall o( the hindmost column and there(ore o( the hi)hest causeway is peculiar because o( its re)ularity and the len)th o( its perpendicular columns. A)ainst the mountains that enclose the third bay, or the distance between the Giants ;auseway and the (ourth headland, one will see the row o( columns that are called The “r)an because o( their shape. From a distance, not much ima)ination is needed to see their similarity to the pipes o( that instrument the middle pillars are bi))er and they )radually )et smaller towards both ends. I climbed the substantial and rather steep hei)ht and (ound the columns to be re)ularly an)ulated. This became even more visible because a (ew were destroyed and ripped out throu)hout the years, which has made it easier to see the shapes o( the other ones. Some columns that were destroyed were split (rom the top down and appeared to be han)in) extremely dan)erously. ’evertheless, they mi)ht remain in the same condition (or centuries to come. The rest o( the bay mostly is made up o( a semicircular wall o( rocks, a)ainst which one will (ind several less per(ect columns. At the bottom o( these walls, the )rounds are covered with slippery chunks o( stone, all the way down to the

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IRELAND sea. When I went beyond the (ourth headland, I was told that there are a (ew more places in which there are similar outstandin), unblemished rows o( columns, but these places are (ar apart (rom each other. “ne o( them even contains two rows on top o( each other, separated by a layer o( rocks. Yet, I only had time to see the ones I have described. It is not my task to describe the physical details o( the (ormation o( these basalt columns, since everyone understands that i)norant people came up with the word Giants ;auseway79. However, in order to quench my readers thirst (or knowled)e, I will describe the views o( the so-called naturalist, the previously mentioned ‘r Hamilton, who has made hypotheses about this and composed his model a(ter thorou)hly comparin) it to the one made earlier. He mainly chose the excellent works o( French )eolo)ists ’icholas Desmarest and :arthélemy Faujas de Saint Fond as his )uidelines. They wrote about the extinct volcanoes and the basalt columns in the counties o( Vivarais, Valais, and Auver)ne in France. Hamilton proves that basalt is, in (act, nothin) more than lava and other material that has been melted by (ire and then hardened a)ain. The minerals surroundin) the basalt columns provide clear evidence o( this element. In addition, several mountains, disre)ardin) the ones in the French provinces just mentioned, that are believed to be extinct volcanoes have these basalt columns in their

79 Footnote by ‘eerman ‘eanwhile, someone who has seen the remains of the old Roman roads, for example those o( the Appian Way Via Appia, and who has seen the streets o( ”ompeii, will be able to )et a clear idea o( the sur(ace o( the upri)ht columns.

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JOHAN MEERMAN brims. The element can even be (ound in the areas near three active volcanoes, one on the island o( Réunion, the other at ‘ount Etna80 and one near Hekla. :ased on these (acts, Hamilton concludes that there must have also once been volcanoes in the ’orthern Ireland, althou)h there are none le(t in the area that have the conical shape they will have disappeared with the volcanoes. Yet, one has to remember what I said about the terrible devastation that the west coast o( Scotland shows most clearly, and the multiple islands that were torn away as a result o( this. “ne also has to consider that the island o( Ra)hery is not the only one containin) basalt columns like the ones on the coast o( the county o( Antrim. Sta((a, one o( the western Scottish islands, which is (amous (or its beauti(ul caves containin) the drawin)s o( ”ennant and Troil, has these columns as well. “n the one hand, when takin) these (acts into account, one will not be surprised by the trans(ormation o( the mountains. “n the other hand, one also realises that the entire space between Ireland and Scotland, which was land centuries a)o, was destroyed by subterranean (ires and has (allen prey to the waves. The most important question that remains, as posed by ‘r Hamilton, is i( basalt and lava are the same, and both owe their existence to (ire, then how is it that the lava that is ejected by all known volcanic mountains, and o( which traces

80 Footnote by ‘eerman ’amely at ;astello ’ormanno, a small island not (ar (rom ;atania. ;astello ’ormanno, meanin) the ’orman castle, is located in Aci ;astello. It is not an island anymore.

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IRELAND can be (ound in the paved currents deep below the sur(ace, never shows the crystallised penta)onal or hexa)onal shape that can be admired in the basalt columns? He answers this query by provin) that the process o( crystallisation can only occur in the heart o( the mountain, where the i)nited substance cools down )radually and uninterruptedly. However, as soon as it comes into contact with the open air, the metallic parts o( the lava are robbed o( their phlo)iston, which makes crystallisation impossible. There(ore, the basalt columns at the Giants ;auseway and in other places, su))est that the volcanoes that used to cover and hide them have collapsed. :e(ore movin) on, I have to talk about the ruined Dunluce ;astle, which is located (urther west on the coast. Its architectural style is very Romanesque somethin) that the ruins o( the castle itsel( and a broken-down piece o( rock rein(orce. Yet, the most peculiar aspect is a lar)e wide cavern located underneath the whole castle. The sea washes a)ainst it on one side, and washes ri)ht throu)h it on the other side. At the entrance, there is an arch made o( rou)h stones, and when one enters, one will see strai)ht throu)h it, towards the li)ht and the water at the end. :e(ore I leave this kin)dom and conclude my writin)s, I would like to add some )eneral remarks about Ireland81.

81 Footnote by ‘eerman Even thou)h Arthur Youn)s A Tour in Ireland with General Observations on the Present State of that Kingdom (1776- 1779) in two parts in octavo is especially concerned with household and agriculture, and the latest events in the kingdom could not be dealt with,

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’aturalists who have investi)ated the soil o( this island are certain that it is )enerally more (ertile than the land in En)land. The western parts are covered with the loveliest pastures, and cattle breedin) is a source o( wealth (or the entire nation. In the southern and eastern parts, a)riculture is thrivin). I( the weavin) industry would not keep so many hands busy in the north, the soil there would be just as willin) to produce (ields o( (ruits. Whereas in En)land only the main roads are )ood, here, mutual a)reements between owners o( adjoinin) lands ensure the smaller roads are kept in excellent condition as well. The public roads are almost the only poorly constructed ones in Ireland. The Irish mile has a proportion to the En)lish o( eleven to (ourteen this is similar (or the Dutch mor)en. As all o( Western Europe, Ireland has a humid atmosphere, and the houses carry obvious traces o( this. It usually starts rainin) in Au)ust and it continues (or months. The Irish, both the upper class, and the lower-class people, are mostly clean, well built and stron). Without a doubt, in this respect, they outshine the En)lish, and not to mention the Scottish. “ne may sometimes see the healthiest and prettiest (aces appearin) (rom the saddest and smokiest (armers cabins. “ne can see swarms o( lively children always crawlin) and walkin) around nearly naked. The )eneral character o( the nation leans as much to the French as it does to the En)lish. From a previous part o( the story, they are already

it is in general one of the most instructive books about the condition of Ireland.

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IRELAND known to be (ull o( li(e, keen o( joy and entertainment, more capable o( their work than dedicated, as well as poor and smeary. However, their appearance is endearin) and their way o( interactin) is (latterin) and complimentary. Every Irish person, no matter what ra)s they wear, has the attitude and speaks the lan)ua)e o( a decent man. Yet, one should be cautious be(ore completely trustin) them they are very adept at comin) up with lies. When they can achieve somethin) by it, they possess an incomprehensible skill (or it82. Their poverty makes them extremely )reedy, especially when they can earn money without havin) to do a lot o( work. They do not )ive a )ood impression o( themselves or their country in this respect. They continually and extensively rein(orce what history teaches us about the development o( Ireland, i( not in (act increasin) these (ables and conjectures. They )et an)ry at the sli)htest insult and are very inclined to (i)htin), which o(ten results in cruel acts. The drinkin), which even stran)ers that are invited as )uests are o(ten (orced to take part in, has taken on (ormidable proportions amon)st the people o( the hi)her and lower classes alike. It mainly occurs amon)st the (irst )roup,

82 Footnote by ‘eerman To )ive an example, I can describe a lie I witnessed and that surpasses everything I have ever heard of this nature. One night, in the presence of a third party, a customs officer searched my suitcase, asked for a tip and received it. The next morning, again in the company of the same third party and in the same room, he repeated his request and assured the both of us, swearing on his heart and soul, that he had never requested something like this and that he had received something from me. However, he was drunk on both occasions.

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JOHAN MEERMAN althou)h, (or country boys, )ulpin) down six bottles o( ;laret, which is taxed less here than in En)land, is a daily (eat. The common countryman excessively indul)es himsel( in horrible but cheap whiskey, at the expense o( both his health and (inances. En)lish is spoken in the northern and eastern provinces, the old Irish in the western and southern provinces. The lower classes o( both re)ions do not understand each other. En)lish is actually a newly acquired lan)ua)e here, and because o( its common use it has displaced the native lan)ua)e. For this reason, En)lish is spoken with a clearness unknown to the common man in En)land. However, every now and then, one will encounter someone with an Irish accent and Gaelicism in the way they combine words. It is widely known what the relations between this kin)dom and En)land are like, which di((erence o( opinion the :ritish and Irish parliaments had about Irelands independence, and which decision has subsequently been made not lon) a)o. :etween 30,000 and 40,000 men strapped themselves into their harnesses and )athered to)ether in (ree re)iments, which have been imitated in the Dutch Republic and almost pushed us down the precipice to which we had already come so close. Upper-class noblemen presented themselves as their leaders, )eneral parades were held and battles were (ou)ht, and hardly anyone was seen walkin) the streets without a uni(orm on. The number o( (ree re)iments has decreased since then. Althou)h the power o( the :ritish parliament decreased, the power o( The ;ourt o( St Jamess was only sli)htly reduced. Upon inspectin) the list o( viceroys, one discovers that nearly

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IRELAND none o( them held their position (or lon)er than a year, apart (rom six or seven. Had the Duke o( Rutland not just died in the middle o( his service, he mi)ht have beaten all o( his predecessors, in this respect. In London, they were always aware that when a Lord Lieutenant, which is the true title o( a viceroy, held their position (or a lon)er period, he should not obtain too much in(luence and authority over the sta(( at the expense o( what is best (or the kin)dom. Similarly, they were aware that the sli)htest chan)e in the ministry could result in the )overnor resi)nin) and his repudiated bene(actors (ollowin) him into unemployment. The viceroy is o(ten merely a nobleman, whom people want to reward with a hi)h title, while a person o( the state or a special secretary is the one who truly must execute the objectives o( the ;ourt o( En)land in Ireland. Every time a new )overnor arrives, the heads o( the opposition )ather to ne)otiate with him or his secretaries. As they receive promises (or )reat deeds that will bene(it them and their people, they, in return, promise to be (avourable re)ardin) the proposals and desires o( the ministers. Just as reli)ion has its thousand hypocrites, patriotism inspires tens o( thousands o( them. The number o( Irish lords is constantly increasin), particularly due to the amount o( En)lish bein) appointed to this di)nity o( the o((ice daily. The House o( ;ommons sometimes lacks suitable individuals to be its members. “n the other hand, one will encounter the owners o( small towns tradin) with the parliaments towns that are at their bestowal. There are people who intentionally take on the role o( an intermediary.

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Rumour has it that anyone who can a((ord to pay 1,000 pounds sterlin) will )et a seat in the House o( ;ommons. In terms o( eloquence and the ability to debate, one will hear nothin) less than one would in London. In (act, the Irish liveliness and swi(tness mi)ht even make them excel in this re)ard. All I will say about the court o( this island is that, with the execution o( ‘r Geor)e Robert Fitz)erald in 1786, who was (rom an upper-class (amily, they reached an enormous triumph. It was a case o( violence and oppression on the one hand, and covert and undue in(luence on the other hand. He was not only known to be a murderer, but was also han)ed because he was at the head o( a )an) consistin) o( several o( his subordinates who had killed some nei)hbours he hated. It was (eared that i( the crime went unpunished, the (ury that is still present amon)st the inhabitants o( some areas o( the island and the compromise to the independence o( the authority o( the law which these people wanted to acquire or retain would both cause terrible consequences. “therwise, except (or some hi)hwaymen near Dublin, the entire kin)dom is reasonably sa(e (or travellers. With re)ards to reli)ion, the Episcopal ;hurch dominates, just as it does in En)land. There is an incomprehensibly lar)e number o( Roman ;atholics in the kin)dom. Lately, people are tryin) to relieve them o( the unbearable yoke under which they have been su((erin). There is also a ”resbyterian ;hurch in every notable town. The Archbishop o( Arma)h is the head o( the Episcopal ;hurch, which is almost completely similar to what I discussed about the ones in En)land. The ;ourt )ives

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IRELAND many wealthy bishops estates and other spiritual di)nities to the En)lish. Last year, the Whiteboys, who are renowned (or their revolts and cruelties, were still in their armour in the Southwest. These people, who should not be jud)ed in all re)ards, are mainly (armers who are in a lon)-lastin) war with the cler)y about the payment o( tithes. ‘any o( them re(use to openly admit this and only commit their violent deeds in the darkness o( the ni)ht. “thers are less scared and dare to deal with o((icial soldiers. Without a doubt, their excessively violent behaviour that one hears about is terrible. Yet, it is also tou)h when even the Roman ;atholics are (orced to pay tithes o( their harvest to ”rotestant cler)y. What a((ection will ”rotestants learn (rom their teachers, who they see blackmailin) (or thin)s that were obtained by hard work? It would be in(initely better i( the ministers would receive a proper and proportionate income, measured by the period o( their employment. Some teachers have already come to an a)reement with their parishioners, which resulted in a permanent abolishment o( the payment o( tithes. The (inances o( Ireland are )ood and the national debt is very low. The import and export duties constitute the lar)est part o( the income and they are su((icient to match the expenses. The export o( linen, which is the most important product o( the Irish manu(acturers, does not have a tax. However, this is nearly the only (avour En)land had con(erred to this kin)dom. In all the other (actories and trades they try to keep the export tax as low as possible, or at least try to make sure that it does not outwei)h the costs. It is not my

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JOHAN MEERMAN intention to blame the rational ministers o( the :ritish ;ourt (or such low and irrational politics, since En)land always needs to pro(it when Ireland prospers because o( the nature o( their relation. It is merely a (ew well-o(( merchants and manu(acturers in En)land driven by the spirit o( jealousy and )reed, who (orce the ministers to this injustice. ”rovidin) or withholdin) their pennies, i( the Exchequer needs it, is a method that never (ails. There(ore, it is not surprisin) that the Irish parliament raises their voice every now and then and that the nation attempts to escape (rom and reject the hand that violently pushes them down. They (ind another impediment o( their prosperity in the continuous absence o( their rulers and the decay o( the a)riculture resultin) (rom this. The lords, who also own lar)e properties, choose to stay in London and near the ;ourt, which, a(ter all, is the source o( all pro(essions, bene(its and di)nities, than to stay on these properties and )ive up the advanta)es they )ain (rom bein) in London. This causes double dama)e. “n the one hand, the money is spent outside the kin)dom. “n the other hand, the costly way o( li(e in London causes more expenses than what they would have had to spend i( they had stayed home. Ri)ht now, either a land a)ent is ur)ed throu)h many letters to approach the people livin) on the land to send as much money as they can collect to En)land or the )oods are entirely or partly rented to a second party o( people o( a hi)h rank, which is the in(initely smarter and a very common way. These middle class landlords, the true cancer o( the kin)dom, exploit the poor (armers to whom they rent the land in smaller plots and (rom

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IRELAND whom they strictly claim their wa)es. They do this to make up (or the cost o( the rent and to ensure a hi)h income (or themselves. Without encoura)ement and an occasional )rant o( money to support the (armers in their businesses, it is impossible to keep the a)riculture (lourishin) and to make the inhabitants o( the countryside happy. The landowners that disobeyed the common rule in this re)ard and kept the administration in their own hands and did not extort the inhabitants are now in(initely richer than they were be(ore and are worshipped by their subordinates. :y contrast, the subordinates o( the others are now pitiable. From what I have previously said, one already knows about the huts o( the Irish (armers, where they sleep in the straw at ni)ht with their wi(e and children, as well as cows, calves, pi)s, and small cattle. Durin) the day, they are covered in a thick smoke (rom peat, which scarcely leaves throu)h the doors and windows. They always o((er )uests a low chair so they can be underneath the smoke as much as possible. ’evertheless, they are so (ond o( that atmosphere that there are examples o( (armers who turned down their landlords o((er to improve their house with a chimney. Almost without exception there is a potato (ield, which )row very well here, near these (armers huts. The potato (ields are lar)e enou)h to provide a year o( sustenance (or a (amily. With this and the milk o( their cows, they are able to )et by. They have an abundance o( both and obtain )ood wel(are (rom it. There(ore, it is not di((icult to understand that when people take credit (or the hard work done by others, instead o( encoura)in) their a)riculture, many (armers would rather

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JOHAN MEERMAN spend their time at home with the (amily vacantly, and (ew will be persuaded to accept a job which always ends up bene(ittin) someone else. All who have travelled the south- western parts o( Ireland can unanimously a((irm that the misery in both the small towns and in the countryside has reached such a hi)h point, one needs to see it in order to be able to understand it. ’evertheless, it seemed to me that the surroundin)s o( Dublin were already remarkable enou)h in this re)ard, as the linen (actories in the northern areas hardly o((ered a better prospect and a way o( li(e. All the transportin) o( )oods which cannot be done across water happens throu)hout the kin)dom with the Irish cart, a kind o( wheelbarrow with two small wheels and two sha(ts between which a horse is hitched. ;arts can always be seen travellin) one a(ter another because they cannot hold much. They do not ruin the roads and only require one teamster to drive several o( these wheelbarrows. ‘ost inns on this island are very mediocre and as soon as one deviates (rom the post road, their quality is even lower than that. In the north, on the outside o( most inns one will see si)ns o( Freemasonry, an or)anisation that endlessly expanded both here and in Scotland. The seat o( the chairman is in one o( these rooms. Furthermore, the En)lish currency is also used on this island, on which, as (ar as I know, no other money is coined. However, the shillin) is worth thirteen pennies instead o( twelve. I( one is not extremely cautious, particularly in Dublin, one will be )iven a lot o( (ake )old, silver and copper coins or coins that are too li)ht. Just like Great :ritain, Ireland has an annual lottery which holds countless participants. However,

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IRELAND both the lottery tickets and the prizes are only worth about hal( o( the En)lish ones. Everythin) ends a(ter one round. The parliament pays (or some re)iments o( militia, yet the kin)dom does not have a navy. In this re)ard, it is entirely dependent on the :ritish protection. This certainly saves immense expenses, but it also causes new links in the chain with which :ritain restrains Ireland.

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JOHAN MEERMAN Glossary baldaquin – a canopy placed above an altar, throne, or door- way “ED. bas-relief – low relie(, a sculpture or carved work in which the (i)ures protrude less than one hal( o( their true proportions (rom the sur(ace on which they are carved “ED. basse cour – outer bailey, the place between the first and second fortification wall of a castle (L). belles-lettres – light, entertaining, sophisticated literature meant for entertainment purposes, such as poetry, fiction or drama (EB). berceau – a shaded or foliage-covered walk (OED). cameo – a precious stone having two layers of different colours, in the upper of which a figure is carved in relief, while the lower serves as a ground (OED). chaise à porteur – a litter, a couch shut in by curtains, and carried on mens shoulders or by beasts o( burden “ED. colonnade – a row of columns (OED). corps de garde – )uard house “ED. corps de logis – main buildin), principal part o( a buildin) “ED. cursus – course. de bon ton – fashionable (OED).

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GLOSSARY de plain pied – on the same level, usually the ground level (L). Editiones Principes – (irst editions. en relief – a carved work in which the desi)n stands out (rom a plane sur(ace so as to have a natural and solid appearance “ED. equipage – a carria)e and horses, with the attendant servants. In later use sometimes applied to a carria)e alone “ED. famuli – an attendant, especially on a scholar or a ma)ician “ED. file – a row o( persons or vehicles who advance one a(ter the other L. fourgon – a ba))a)e wa)on “ED. fronton – a pediment “ED. intaglio – a (i)ure or desi)n incised or en)raved in stone or other hard material “ED. jus – law. jus eminens –the state ri)ht o( expropriation. laitarie/laiterie – a building for the pastoral amusements of the aristocracy (L). lustre – one o( the prismatic )lass pendants o(ten attached in circles to a chandelier or hun) round the ed)e o( an ornamental vase, or the chandelier itsel( “ED.

387

JOHAN MEERMAN morgen – the unit morgen ranges between 3180 m2 to 10770 m2. The most common was the Dutch morgen, which was 8516 m2 (GTB). or moulu – gold or gold leaf ground and prepared for gilding. Later: gilded metal used to decorate. pavé – pavement L. peristyle – a row of columns surrounding a temple (OED). porte-chaise – see chaise à porteur. porte-cochères – lar)e doors which allow the passa)e o( carria)es into the house L. portique – a covered entrance, o(ten consistin) o( columns supportin) a roo( L. poulaille – poultry L. robes de cour – courtly dress. sak – eighteenth century gowns with a close-fitting bodice, but loose pleats on the back (GTB).

Sella Curulis – a chair looking like a campstool with curved legs. In ancient Rome for the use of the highest government dignitaries (EB). serge – a kind of twill fabric, characterised by diagonal lines on both sides. Used for military outfits when worsted, used for linings when consisting of silk (OED). serpentine breccia – serpentine is a decorative stone, usually grey, white, or green, but may be yellow or green-blue (EB).

388

GLOSSARY soup terrine/soupe terrine – a container with high edges and a lid in which meat cut into small pieces was cooked in strongly flavoured stock (L). statue equestre – an equestrian statue. stuiver – a twentieth part (of a guilder). taille – waist or figure. te deum – early ;hristian hymn to God the Father and ;hrist the Son E:. transept – part o( the cross-shaped church buildin) which (orms one o( its arms “ED. verd antique – a speci(ic type o( serpentine, in a dull dark )reen, white mottled colour “ED. vestibule – the (partially) enclosed space in front of the main entrance, a forecourt (OED).

389

JOHAN MEERMAN Bibliography

Print Sources

:ethell, Denis. The Foundation o( Fountains Abbey and the State o( St. ‘ary's York in 1132. The Journal o( Ecclesiastical History, vol. 17, no. 1, 1966, pp. 11-27. :rid)es, Roy. Exploration and Travel “utside Europe 1720 - 1914. The ;ambrid)e ;ompanion to Travel Writin). Edited by ”eter Hulme and Tim Youn)s, ;ambrid)e U”, 2006, pp. 53-69. :risson, Ulrike, and :ernard Schweizer. ’ot so Innocent Abroad the ”olitics o( Travel and Travel Writin). ;ambrid)e Scholars, 2009. :uzard, James. The Grand Tour and A(ter 1660-1840. The ;ambrid)e ;ompanion to Travel Writin). Edited by ”eter Hulme and Tim Youn)s, ;ambrid)e U”, 2006, pp. 37-52. ;harites. “x(ord Dictionary o( the ;lassical World, edited by John Roberts. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007.

;li((ord, James. Routes Travel and Translation in the Late Twentieth ;entury. Harvard U”, 1999. Dekker, R.‘. Dutch Travel Journals (rom the Sixteenth to the Early ’ineteenth ;enturies. Translated by Gerard T. ‘oran. Lias Sources and Documents Relatin) to the Early ‘odern History o( Ideas 22, 1995, pp. 277-300.

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Foster, R. F. The Oxford History of Ireland. Oxford University Press, 1989.

Hooper, Glenn. The Isles/Ireland The Wilder Shore. The ;ambrid)e ;ompanion to Travel Writin). Edited by ”eter Hulme and Tim Youn)s, ;ambrid)e U”, 2002, pp. 174-90. Hulme, ”eter, and Tim Youn)s, editors. Introduction. The ;ambrid)e ;ompanion to Travel Writin). ;ambrid)e U”, 2013, pp. 1-15. ”orter, Dennis. Haunted Journeys Desire and Trans)ression in European Travel Writin). ”rinceton U”, 1991. Reinders, Michel. Printed Pandemonium: Popular Print and Politics in the Netherlands 16 50-72. Brill, 2013.

Seaton, A.V. Gettin) Socially on the Road The Short, Happy Life of the Anapaestic Tourism Narrative, 1755-1830. Travel Writing, Visual Culture and Form, 1760 – 1900. Edited by Mary Henes and Brian H. Murray. Palgrave Macmillan, 2016, pp. 115-138.

Te Water, J.W. Levensbericht in Handelin)en van de jaarlijksche ver)aderin) der ‘aatschappij van ’ederlandsche Letterkunde. Jaarboek van de ‘aatschappij der ’ederlandse Letterkunde 1803-1900. Leiden, 1816, pp. 5-43. Tromp, Heimerick. De Nederlandse Landschapsstijl in de Achttiende Eeuw. Sidestone Press, 2012.

391

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Tyerman, Luke. The “x(ord ‘ethodists ‘emoirs o( the Rev. ‘essrs. ;layton, In)ham, Gambold, Hervey and :rou)hton, With :io)raphical ’otices o( “thers. Hodder and Stou)hton, 1873. Van Heel, Jos, et al. Een Wereld van Verzamelaars en Geleerden: Gerard en Johan Meerman, Willem van Westreenen en Pieter van Damme en hun archieven. Verloren, 2012.

Wal(ord, Edward. Tottenham ;ourt Road. “ld and ’ew London, vol. 4. ;assell, ”etter & Galpi, 1878, pp. 467-470. Walpot, Henry. The :ook o( ;ommon ”rayer En)lish and Low- Dutch. Dordrecht. 1728.

Web Sources

;laude, ’ational Gallery, www.national)allery.or).uk/ artists/claude. Accessed 15 Apr. 2017. ";orrieyairack ”ass." VisitScotland , www.visitscotland.com/ in(o/see-do/corrieyairack-pass-p316341. Accessed 17 Jun. 2017. "Dunkeld Hermitage." Highland Perthshire, www.highlandperthshire.com/things-to-do/attractions/ hermitage-dunkeld.aspx. Accessed 17 Jun. 2017. Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., n.d., www.britannica.com. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017.

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Eustace, Katharine. Rysbrack, (John) Michael (1694–1770. “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, www.ox(orddnb.com.proxy- ub.ru).nl/view/article/16530. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017.

Evans, Dorinda. West, Benjamin (1738–1820). “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, www.ox(orddnb.com.proxy- ub.ru).nl/view/article/16530. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. Gascoi)ne, :amber. History o( Scotland. HistoryWorld, www.historyworld.net/wrldhis/”lainTextHistories.asp?” ara)raphID=oaq. Accessed 15 Apr. 2017. Geïnte)reerde Taalbank, Instituut voor de ’ederlandse Taal, 2007. www.)tb.inl.nl Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. Gilpin, William. “n ”icturesque Travel. Three Essays on ”icturesque :eauty. 2nd ed, 1794. Romantic Travellers, edited by David S. Miall, Alberta U, 3 Jan. 1999. sites.ualberta.ca/~dmiall/Travel/)ilpine2.htm. Accessed 20 Apr. 2017 "Greenwich Hospital History." Greenwich Hospital, www.)renhosp.or).uk/about/)reenwich-hospital-history. Accessed 17 Jun. 2017. Kell, ”. E. Lever, Sir Ashton 1729–1788. “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, http//www.ox(orddnb.com.proxy-ub.ru).nl/ view/article/16530. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. Kin) James :ible “nline. 2017. Web. 3 ‘ay 2017.

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Larousse. La Société Éditions Larousse, n.d., www.larousse.(r. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. Le)ard, James. "Queen Anne, ;ourt ;ulture and the ;onstruction o( :lenheim ”alace." Journal (or Ei)hteenth-;entury Studies, vol. 37, no.2, 2014, pp. 185- 197. Wiley “nline Library, doi Accessed 22 Apr. 2017. ‘artyn, Thomas. The En)lish ;onnoisseur containin) an Account o( Whatever Is ;urious in ”aintin), Sculpture, Etc. in the ”alaces and Seats o( the ’obility and ”rincipal Gentry o( En)land... 2. Gre)), 1968. Web. 17 Jun. 2017. ‘aver, Irene. 18th-;entury Glas)ow. ::;, 17 Feb. 2011, www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/civil_war_revolution/sco tland_glasgow_01.shtml. Accessed 15 Apr. 2017. Meerman, Johan. Eenige Berichten Omtrent Groot-Britannien en Ierland. J. van Cleef, 1787. Molhuysen, Philip Christiaan, and Petrus Johannes Blok. Nieuw Nederlands Biografisch Woordenboek. Vol. 4., Huygens Instituut voor Nederlandse Geschiedenis. A.W. Sijthof, 1918.

’elms, ;hris. Kin) Al(reds Tower, www.al(redstower.in(o. Accessed 28 Apr. 2017. "The Owners of Wanstead Park Part 9: 1750-1784." The Friends of Wanstead Parklands, www.wansteadpark.org.uk/ hist/the-owners-of-wanstead-park-part-9-1750-1784/. Accessed 22 Mar. 2017.

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Oxford English Dictionary. Oxford University Press, Dec 2016, www.oed.com. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017.

”ark, ‘un)o. Travels in the Interior o( A(rica. London W. :urton, 1799. ”roject Gutenber). www.)utenber).or)/(iles/5266/5266-h/5266-h.htm. Accessed 20 Apr. 2017. ”rincess Amelia. Westminster Abbey. The Dean and ;hapter o( Westminster, n.d. Web. 22 Apr. 2017. Reilly, Robin. Wed)wood, Josiah 1730–1795. “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, www.ox(orddnb.com.proxy- ub.ru).nl/view/article/16530. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. "Rhabbouni." :ible Hub Search, Read, Study the :ible in ‘any Lan)ua)es, biblehub.com/)reek/4462.htm. Accessed 17 June 2017. Sterne, Laurence. A Sentimental Journey Throu)h France and Italy. T. :ecket and ”. A. De Hondt, 1768. ”roject Gutenber). www.)utenber).or)/(iles/804/804-h/804- h.htm. Accessed 21 Apr. 2017. Tann, Jenni(er. :oulton, ‘atthew 1728–1809. “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, www.ox(orddnb.com.proxy- ub.ru).nl/view/article/16530. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. Tay Forest ”ark . VisitScotland, www.visitscotland.com/in(o/ see-do/tay-(orest-park-p1407421. Accessed 17 Jun. 2017.

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"Thomas Marshall, of Northwich Cheshire, esq." The National Archives, discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/ r/81842170-b82e-472e-b34a-0581189b1229. Accessed 17 Jun. 2017.

Torrens, H. S. ”arkinson, James bap. 1730, d. 1813. “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, www.oxforddnb.com.proxy- ub.rug.nl/view/article/21370 . Accessed 19 Jun. 2017. Van Dam, :eatrix. Throu)h Words and ”laces Travel and Writin) in Dutch- and German-speakin) Re)ions o( Europe between 1800 and 1950. Kommunikation und Fachin(ormation (ür die Geschichtswissenscha(ten. H- Soz-Kult, n.d. http//www.hsozkult.de/con(erencereport/ id/ta)un)sberichte-4818. Accessed 21 Apr. 2017. Van den :ur), ‘artijn. :io)ra(isch Woordenboek van Nederland: 1780-1830, ‘eerman, Johan. Huygens Instituut voor Nederlandse Geschiedenis, 2013. resources.huygens.knaw.nl/bwn1780-1830/lemmata/ data/Meerman. Accessed 19 Apr. 2017.

White, ‘atthew. Health, Hy)iene and the Rise “( ‘other Gin in the 18th ;entury. :ritish Library. www.bl.uk/)eor)ian-britain/articles/health-hy)iene-and- the-rise-o(-mother-)in-in-the-18th-century. Accessed 20 Apr. 2017. White, ‘atthew. The Rise o( ;ities in the 18th ;entury. :ritish Library. www.bl.uk/)eor)ian-britain/articles/the- rise-o(-cities-in-the-18th-century. Accessed 15 Apr. 201.7

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William ”itt and Family. Westminster Abbey. The Dean and ;hapter o( Westminster, n.d. Accessed 22 Apr. 2017. Yarrin)ton, Alison. Wri)ht, ”atience Lovell 1725–1786. “x(ord Dictionary o( ’ational :io)raphy, “x(ord U”, 2004, online ed., Jan. 2008, www.ox(orddnb.com.proxy- ub.ru).nl/view/article/16530. Accessed 19 Jun. 2017.

Maps and Illustrations

Fi). 1 Van Senus, Willem. ”ortrait o( Johan ‘eerman. 1817. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/FileWillem_van_Senus,_ ”ortret_van_Johan_‘eerman_1817.jp). Accessed4 Jun. 2017. Fi). 2 ‘orier, David. The :attle o( ;ulloden. 1746. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/FileThe_:attle_o(_;ullod en.jp). Accessed 3 Jun. 2017. Fi). 3 Storer, J. and H.S. Storer. Dublin (rom the ”hoenix ”ark. 1825. J. ’. :rewer, The :eauties o( Ireland :ein) “ri)inal Delineations, Topo)raphical, Historical, and :io)raphical, o( Each ;ounty, vol. 1, ;oe and ‘oore, 1826. Fi). 4 Ramsay, Allan. ”ortrait o( Geor)e III. 1762. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/FileAllan_Ramsay_- _Kin)_Geor)e_III_in_coronation_robes_- _Goo)le_Art_”roject.jp). Accessed 3 Jun. 2017. Fi). 5 ”ortrait o( William ”itt the Youn)er. ca. 1787. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/FileWilliam_”itt_the_You n)er_2.jp). Accessed 4 June 2017. 397

JOHAN MEERMAN

Fi). 6 Russel, James. :ritish ;onnoisseurs in Rome. 1750. https//commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/File:ritish- ;onnaisseurs.jp)?uselan)=nl. Accessed 3 Jun. 2017. Fi). 7 ‘acGibbon, David and Thomas Ross. Dover ;astle. 1887. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/FileDover_;astle,_19th- century_drawin).jp)?uselan)=nl. Accessed 4 Jun. 2017. Fi).8, 9, 10 Robinson, G.G. and J. Robinson. En)land. ;lement ;rutwell, 1799. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/File1799 _;lement_;ruttwell_‘ap_o(_En)land_-_Geo)raphicus_- _En)land-cruttwell-1799.jp)?uselan)=nl. Accessed 28 ‘ay 2017. Fi). 11 :owen, Emanuel. A ’ew & Accurate map o( Scotland and ’orth :ritain. 1767. Library o( ;on)ress, Geo)raphy and ‘ap Division. www.loc.)ov/item/2012593525/. Accessed 28 ‘ay 2017. Fi). 12 Robinson, G.G. and J. Robinson. Ireland. ;lement ;rutwell, 1799. commons.wikimedia.or)/wiki/File1799 _;lement_;ruttwell_‘ap_o(_Ireland_-_Geo)raphicus_- _Ireland-cruttwell-1799.jp)?uselan)=nl. Accessed 28 ‘ay 2017.

398

INDEX Index

A Astleys Amphitheatre 92 Athens 142, 156, 190 Aachen 39 Atholl , Duke of 292, 294, 296 Aberconway 19 Auvergne, county, 373 Abercorn, Lord 329 Avon, river 14, 15, 38, 255, 257 Aberdeen 311, 312, 314 Ayr 272 Aberdeen University 313 Abington, Mrs 91 B Adam, Robert xii, 49, 144, 180, 185, 248, 316 Bakewell 25 Adelphi, London 248 Banff 305, 309, 310, 311 Ailsa Craig 272 Bangor 21 Aislabie, Mr 50, 180 Bank of England , London 150, Alnwick 22, 114, 142, 173 151 Alps 300 Bank Top, inn 23 Amelia, Princess of the United Bann, river, 368, 369 Kingdom 122, 206 Barrow , river 339 Amsterdam 107, 151, 338 Bartolozzi, Francesco 189 Anglesey 20 Bastille 159 Anne, Queen of Great Britain Bath 14, 24, 37, 38, 95, 112, 148, 112, 188, 281 170, 171, 255, 256 Antrim 366, 370, 374 Beattie, Lord 313 Argyle Street, Glasgow 275 Beaufort, Earl of 158 Argyll, Duke of 286, 288 Beckett, Thomas 162 Arius 127 Beckford, William 47 Arthurs Seat 325 Bedford, Duek of 152, 194 Arundel, Earl of 165 Bedlam, London 106 Ashburn 25 Belfast 365, 366 Assembly House, Norwich 196 Bellevue House 360 Assembly Rooms, Edinburgh Belvoir 200 171, 323 Ben Lomond 283, 314 Assizes House, Exeter 254 Bern 262 Berwick-upon-Tweed 263, 330

399

JOHAN MEERMAN

Beverley 183, 265 Bury 43, 267 Beza 140 Bushmills 370 Birmingham 49, 126, 144, 172, Bute, Lord 314 231, 238, 241, 244, 245, 258, 259 Blackfriars Bridge, London 152 C Blair, castle 295-96 Caithness-shire 309 village 294, 297, 301 Cambridge xxxi, 26, 131, 135, Dr 327 136, 140, 194, 195, 196 Blandford 168 Cambridgeshire 43 Blenheim 54, 55, 112, 141, 188, Canterbury 115, 124, 162, 252 189 Canterbury Cathedral 252 Bodleian Library, Oxford 139, Capua 154 142 Carlisle, Earl of 114, 177, 179 Botanic Garden, Edinburgh 327 town, 273 Botany Bay, Australia 217 Carron 317 Boulton, Matthew 239, 240, 242, Carton House 357 245 Castle Howard 23, 44, 177 Boyne, river 363 Castleton, cave 27 Bramham Park 54 tavern 30 Brandenburg 236 village 26, 30, 42 Bray 362 Castletown House 356, 357 Breadalbane, Earl of 287, 290, Chapel House 25 291 Charlemont, Lord 350, 355 Bridgewater, Duke of 33, 35, 231, Charles I of England 140, 153, 318 253, 345 Bridport 14 Charles II of England 151, 328 Bristol 13, 14, 15, 38, 63, 91, 171, Chatham, Lord 113, 149, 152, 350 238, 255, 256, 257 Chatsworth 54, 185, 186 Bristol Channel 15 Cheere 169, 193 British Museum 59, 61, 137, 154 Chelsea 106, 109, 110 Buccleuch, Duke of 329 Chepstow 15, 16, 171 Buchanan, George 326 Cheshire 35, 43 Buckingham, Marquess of 55, 153 Chester 18, 128, 232, 261, 263, Buckingham House 153 351 Burghley House 199 Chesterfield, Lord 350 Burnett, Sir Robert 198

400

INDEX

Child, Mrs 160, 185 Country Hospital, London 110 Chiswick 57, 160 Coupar Angus 314 Chiswick House 160 Court of Chancery 214 Christ Church College, Oxford Court of Exchequer 96, 215 142, 192 Court o( Kin)s :ench 215 Christs Hospital, London 106 Covent Garden, London 88, 149, Church of St Andrews 276 248 Churchill, General John 188 Coventry, Lord 49, 186, 236, 266 Cicero 139, 191 Croome 49 Circular Road, Dublin 338 Cullen 308 Circus, Bath 92, 255 Cullen House 308 City Hall, Aberdeen 311 Cumberland 21 Banff 310 Cunningham, General 360, 362 Bath 171 Berwick-upon-Tweed 263 D Exeter 229 Dalkeith Palace 329 Laurencekirk 314 Dalmally 287 London 113, 150, 152 Dame Street, Dublin 339, 344 Nottingham 266 Dargle, glen 361 Perth 315 Dean of Westminster 123 Worcester 232 Dee, river 18, 261, 311 Clare Hall 195 Delaval, Lord 230, 245 Claremont 56, 161 Denbigh 19 Claude, Gellée 11, 164 Derby 24, 25, 26, 54, 184, 238, Clay, Lord 241, 244 243, 266 Clifton Hill 63 Derbyshire 30, 32, 42, 63, 185, Clive, Lord 56, 161 235, 236, 243 Clyde, river 274, 276, 277, 278, Derwent, river 24, 54, 266 279, 280, 284, 285, 318 Desmarest, Nicholas 373 Coleraine 369 Devils Glen 359, 362 College Green, Dublin, 339, 343 Devizes 14 Conway, valley 19 Devon 13, 228 Conwy 31 Devonport 255 Cook, Captain James 61, 90, 155 Devonshire, county 234 Cornwall 144, 214, 228 Duke of 54, 57, 156, 186 Corsham Court 170

401

JOHAN MEERMAN

Ditchley 188 E Doctors ;ommons 216 Eagleton, Lord 144 Dolci, Carlo 169, 170, 199 Eastbury Park 168 Donaghadee 271, 363, 366 Eddystone Rocks 229 Donkam, Mr 179 Edinburgh xxi, xxiii, 136, 273, Dorchester 58 317, 319, 320, 323, 326, 327, Dorset 13 328, 330, 331, 332, 355 Doune 309, 311 Egypt 137, 154 Dove, river 24 Eldon Hole 30 Dovedale 24, 58 Elgin 306, 308 Dover Castle 253 Ely 43, 198 Drogheda 363 Ely Cathedral 198 Dropping Well 40 Episcopal Church, Belfast 117, Drury, Mrs 88, 370, 371 119, 327, 366, 380 Dublin xvi, xvii, xix, xx, 337, 338, Ermenonville 289 339, 340, 345, 346, 351, 352, Essex 12, 58, 338, 340, 344 353, 354, 355, 358, 362, 363, Essex Bridge, Dublin 338, 340, 370, 380, 384 344 Dublin Bay 337 Eton 13, 130 Duddingston House 329 Exchange, Amsterdam 151 Dumbarton 274, 280, 281 Belfast 333 Dumfries 274 Edinburgh 320 Dún Laoghaire 337 Glasgow 275 Dunbar Castle 330 London 150, 151, 366 Duncombe 23, 54 Exe, river 13, 254 Dundalk 363 Exeter, Dunkeld 292, 294, 295 Cathedral 169 Dunluce Castle 375 city 13, 234, 254 Durham 22, 115, 175, 263 county 228 Dutch Republic xii, xiii, xiv, xv, Earl of 199 xxvi, 58, 69, 73, 93, 97, 104, 116, 119, 126, 216, 220, 226, F 246, 302, 311, 327, 378 Falkirk 317 Falls of Fire 299 Falls of Foyers 299

402

INDEX

Fausto Sozzini 127 Gibraltar 148 Fife, Count of 309, 310 Girvan 272 Findlater, Lord 308, 309 Glamis 314, 315 Firth of Clyde 274 Glasgow xvii, xxi, xxiii, 61, 138, Firth of Forth 278 271, 273, 274, 276, 277, 278, Fitzwilliam, Lord 182 279, 280, 281, 305, 318 Fochabers 307, 308, 309 Glen of the Downs 361 Fonthill 47, 168 Gloucester 16 Forbes 305 Gloucestershire 62 Fort Augustus 297, 298, 301 Gobelins Manufactory, Paris 237 Fort George 298, 304, 308 Godiva, Lady 266 Fort William 298, 300 Gog Magog Hills 25 Forth, river 317, 318, 319, 324, Goodwood House 157 328 Gordon, Castle 307 Foundling Hospital, Dublin 346- Duke of 296, 306, 308-09 47 Gosport 228 London 106, 109 Grantham 200 Fountains Abbey 51 Greaves, Ms 155 France xxv, xxix, xxxiii, 72, 77, Greece 56, 144, 154, 191 86, 105, 140, 186, 206, 229, 236, Green Park, London 157, 248 253, 353, 373 Greenwich 106, 109, 110, 159 Francis I of France 137 Greenwich Hospital 159 Frome 14 Greenwich Park 159 Fust, Jonathan 139 Grey, Ms 199 Guercino 178, 290 G Guido of Arezzo 169 Guildhall, London 96 Garrick, David 90, 172 Norwich 196 George I of England 195, 339 Gulf of Naples 337 George II of England 122, 339 George III of the United Kingdom H xxiii, xxiv, xxv, 114, 151, 204 George Square, Edinburgh 320 Hacket, Bishop John 172 Giants ;auseway 342, 363, 366, Hackfall 50, 52 369, 371, 372, 373, 375 Hackwright, Mr 235 Gibbons, Grimling 199 Haddington 330

403

JOHAN MEERMAN

Hadrians Wall 175, 263, 278 Hillsborough, city 364-65 Hagley 49 Lord 364-65 Hague xi, xv, 152, 249 Hoare, Henry 13, 47, 114, 168 Hamilton, house 273-74 Hochheim 77 Knight 154 Holkham Hall 196, 197 Minister 370, 373, 374 Holyhead 18, 21, 337, 354, 363 Hampton Court Palace 157, 158 Holyroodhouse, Palace of 324-25 Handel 101, 102 Holywell 18, 38, 235 Harcourt, Lord 54, 194 Honiton 14 Hardwicke, Earl of 196 Hope, Dr 327 Harewood 23 Hopetoun, house 318, 329 house 180, 182 Lord 318, 329 Hargrave, William 148 Hopkins 57 Harrogate 23, 39 Hotwells, Bristol 257 Harrowgate 96, 358 Hough, Bishop John 172 Hartley 33, 35, 230, 245 Houghton Hall 196 Harwich 11, 59 House of Commons 135, 209, Harwood 50, 53, 58 210, 211, 214, 343, 379, 380 Hector 98 House of Lords 116, 135, 208, Hekla, mountain 374 210, 215, 216, 343 Helmsley 23 Howard, John 218 Henley, valey 25 Hume, David xxi, 321 Henry, Lord 13, 122, 137, 147, Hunter, Dr 61, 62, 138, 142 327 Huss, John 326 Henry VII Lady Chapel 122 Hyde Park 248 Henry VIII of England 137, 147 Hercules 98, 165, 169, 191 I Hereford 16, 258 Ilam 25 Hereford Cathedral 258 Inveraray 286, 287 Herefordshire 17, 43 Inverness 287, 299, 300, 304

Heriots Hospital 325 Irish Giant 341 Hervey, James 125 Irish Sea 232, 261, 272, 274 Heythrop Park 187 Irwell, river 231, 259 High Life Below Stairs 90 Isle of Portland 14 Highlands xx, xxii, xxiii, xxxvi, 280, 281, 300, 302, 303, 314, 315

404

INDEX

J Lanark 274 Lascelles, Mr 23, 50, 180 James II of England 110, 172 Laurencekirk 314 James V, King of Scots 316 Leasowes 49 Jarvis, John Wesley 355 Leeds xxvii, 23, 32, 180, 232, 265 Jenson, Nicholas 141 Leiden University 326 Jervis, Lord 144, 158, 187, 192 Leinster, Duchess 197 John, King of England 54, 55, 57, Duke 345, 357 125, 140, 169, 172, 188, 194, Leith 324, 327, 328 218, 326, 355 Leixlip 357, 358, 359, 361 Jones, Inigo 149, 184 Lever, Sir Ashton 60, 155 Lichfield, Earl of 172, 186, 188 K Liffey, river 338-40, 355-58, 362 Kedleston Hall 26, 185 Lincoln 26, 135, 200, 267 Kenmore 290 Linlithgow 318 Kennedy, James 165 Linnaeus, Carl 327 Kensington 56, 248 Lisbon 13 Kent 12, 43 Lisburn 365, 366 Kew Palace 57 Liverpool 33, 36, 37, 39, 59, 87, Kildare 339 111, 112, 173, 231, 237, 260 Killin 288, 289 Loch Awe 288 Kilmarnock 272 Loch Dow 286 King Alfred 13, 114 Loch Fyne 285, 286 Kin)s ;olle)e, Aberdeen 195, Loch Lomond 281, 282, 283, 284 312, 313 Loch Long 284, 285 Kings Weston House, Bristol 14, Loch Ness 298, 299 49 Loch Tay 287, 288, 289, 290 Kingston upon Hull 112, 183, 265 Locke, John 193 Kinmel Hall 31 Loftus, Lord 355 Knaresborough 23, 40 London xvii, xxvi, xxvii, xxxi, 6, Knox 331 12, 25, 37, 43, 44, 56, 57, 59, 61, 62, 68, 72, 74, 78, 79, 80, 82, 83, L 85, 86, 88, 89, 91, 92, 93, 96, La Touche 360 101, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, Ladies Walk, Liverpool 261 109, 110, 113, 117, 124, 125, 135, 136, 137, 143, 144, 145,

405

JOHAN MEERMAN

147, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153, Marlborough, city 167 157, 160, 169, 183, 194, 206, Duke of 55, 112, 141, 177, 188 218, 220, 225, 226, 236, 237, Marle, Dean 357 238, 243, 245, 246, 247, 248, Marshall, Lord 36 249, 250, 251, 252, 259, 296, Mary, Queen of Scots xxxi, 31, 327, 337, 343, 346, 348, 350, 162, 171, 184, 185, 187, 193, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, 379, 318, 324, 330 380, 382 Master Percy 125 Longford 164 Matlock 24, 25, 26, 39, 96 Lord Brown 27 Matsys, Quentin 158 Lord Clifford 15 Mayor 96, 150, 247, 257 Lord Courtney 13 Mazarin, Cardinal 165 Lough Neagh 366, 368 Mengs, Anton Raphael 193 Loughborough 56 Mersey, river 231, 260 Lovers Leap Rock 362 Methuen, Mr 170 Lucan 165, 358 Middleton Dale 24 Lucas, Dr 344 Moffat 274 Luss 283 Monmouth 16 Lyttleton, Lord 49 Monmouthshire 16 Moore, Mr 237 M Moray 304, 305, 309 Morpeth 22 Madame Mara 102 Morres, Ms 176 Magdalen College, Oxford 193

Magdalen House 108 ‘ortimers Hole 32 Mount Edgcumbe 13, 48, 228 Malvern 16, 17, 38 Mount Etna 374 Malvern Hills 16, 17 Mam Tor, mountain 30 N Manchester xxvii, 32, 33, 40, 42, 126, 128, 131, 137, 141, 173, Nairn 305 231, 235, 237, 259 Nantwich 261 Manifold, river 25 Ness, river 300, 304 Mansion House, London 150 New Street, Birmingham 258 Maratti, Carlo 160, 186, 197 Newby Hall 180, 182 Marino House 355 Marischal College 312, 313

406

INDEX

Newcastle, city 22, 32, 35, 68, Oxford xxxi, 6, 37, 54, 68, 122, 175, 263 125, 131, 133, 134, 135, 136, Duke of 56, 62, 266 139, 142, 191, 192, 194, 195, Newmarket 99 197, 267, 312 Newry 362, 364 Norfolk, county 37, 42, 196, 198, P 235, 267 Pains Hill 161 Duke of 184, 265 Painshill 43, 57, 62 North Channel 361 Paisley 278 North Parade, Bath 256 Pantheon 101, 156 North Sea 22, 232 Paris 104, 237, 251, 346 North Shields 22, 263 Parker, Mr 169 Northumberland 22, 56, 114, 156, Parliament House, Ireland 343 160, 173, 230 Scotland 316, 328 Northumbria, county 144, Peak District 24, 25, 26, 42 Dutchess of 149 Pembroke, Earl of 46, 164 Duke of 141 Penicuik House 329 Northwich 35, 36 Penmaenmawr, mountain 20 Norwich 196, 234, 267 Penpole 15 Nottingham 25, 32, 184, 265 Perth 314, 315 Nuneham Courtenay 25, 54, 194 Peterborough 141, 198 Nuneham House 194 Phoenix Park, Dublin xvi, 338, 348 O Physicians Hall, Edinburgh 323 “’eill, Mr 366, 368, 369 Picardy 253 Oatlands 56, 62 Pickering 23 Okeover Hall 185, 186 Piercefield House 16 Old Hock 77 Plompton 50, 52 Old Royal Naval College 159 Plymouth 14, 37, 49, 111, 169, Omai 90 228, 254 Orange Grove, Bath 256 Plymouth Sound 228 Order of St Patrick 346 Pope, Alexander 278 Osterley Park 160 Port Glasgow 279 Ouse, river 264 Portpatrick 271, 363 Portsmouth 111, 227, 253

407

JOHAN MEERMAN

Powerscourt, house 359 Ross-shire 309 Lord 358, 359 Rotterdam xi, 261 Presbyterian Church, Belfast Roubillac, Louis-Francois 148 276, 333, 366, 380 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 289 Prior, Thomas 346 Royal Crescent, Bath 255 Royal Infirmary, Edinburgh 325 Q Rubens 144, 153, 170, 178, 186, 188, 190, 273, 351 Quebec 148 Rutland, Duke of 26, 200, 379 Queen Square, Bath 256 Rysbrack, John Michael 148, 169 Bristol 171 Queens ”alace 153 S Queens Bridge, Dublin 338 Queensferry 319 Sadlers Wells 92 Salisbury, countess 172 R county 42, 46, 58, 162, 163, 164, 166, 254 Radcliffe Library, Oxford 139, Salmon Leap 357 191 Sandfort, General 357 Radnor, Lord 164 Savoy 303 Raghery, island 370, 374 Scalp 358 Ranelagh Gardens, London 350 Scarborough 23, 39, 264 Raphael 140, 154, 156, 186, 190, Scarsdale, Lord 26, 185 193, 197 Severn, river 14, 15, 16 Rathfarnham Castle 355 Shakespeare, William 89, 172 Reid, Thomas 278

Rembrandt 141, 168, 178 Shanes ;astle 366, 367, 368 Sheffield xxvii, 23, 32, 182, 235, Réunion, island 374 244, 265 Reynolds, Sir Joshua 144, 192 Shelburne, Lord 341 Richelieu, Cardinal 165 Sheriffs of London 96, 225 Richmond, Bridge 247 Shields 22, 263 Duke of 57, 142, 156, 227, 247 Shrewsbury, Lord 187 Ripon 180 Siddons, Mrs 91 Cathedral 180 Skipton 25 Robertson, William 327 Smith, Mr 16, 327 Rodney, Admiral 227 Snowdon, mountain 21 Rome xxviii, 56, 147, 154, 217

408

INDEX

Society of Agriculture 42 Stowe 54, 55, 114, 189, 191 Soho, West Midlands 239 Stowe House 189 Solway Firth 274 Strafford 182, 365 Somerset, county 13, 195, 234 Stranraer 271 Duke of 145 Stratford 23 Somersetshire 37 Street, Sir Thomas 172, 275, 320 South Parade, Bath 256 Stuart, Mr xviii, xxii, 351 South Shields 22, 263 Stubbs 183 Southampton 40, 59, 253 Studley 50, 58 Southwark, London 247 Suffolk 12, 42 Spencer, Lord 156 Sugarloaf, mountain 358, 361 Spey, river 296, 297, 307 Swift, Jonathan 346 St :artholomews Hospital, Syon House 56, 141, 160 London 106 St Geor)es ;athedral, London T 149 Talke 35 , London 153, St Jamess ”alace Tarbet 284, 285 207, 208 Tay, river 288, 289, 291, 292, 293, , London 72, 248 St Jamess ”ark 295, 315 St Mary Redcliff Church, Bristol Taymouth 290, 292 171 Temple, Lord 48, 56, 135, 137, , London 251 St ”auls ;athedral 161, 168, 190 hurch, Manchester St ”auls ; Temple of Ancient Virtue 191 173 Temple of Concord and Victory , Norwich 196 St ”eters ;hurch 190 St Stephen Walbrook, London Thames, river 12, 25, 56, 110, 117, 149 157, 159, 247, 248, 250, 251, 259 , Dublin 339 St Stephens Green Theatre 88, 134, 135 Staffa, island 374 Theatre Royal 88 Staffordshire 35, 242 Theatre Royal Haymarket 88 Stamford 199 Thirsk 23, 179 Stirling 281, 315, 317, 319, 320, Tiber, river 60, 147 323 Tintern Abbey 171 Stirling Castle 316 Titian 178 Stonehenge 166, 167 Tower of London 247 Stourhead 47, 114, 168

409

JOHAN MEERMAN

Town Hall, Chester 262 Wentworth castle 23 Trinity College, Cambridge 140, Wentworth Castle 182 192, 195 Wentworth House 182 Dublin 340 West, Benjamin 144, 150, 235, Turin 262 257, 260 Two Sicilies 154 Westminster 96, 102, 113, 122, Tyburn 225 129, 130, 147, 152, 189, 209, Tylney, Lord 57, 62, 159 215, 247, 248 Tyndrum 288 Abbey 102, 113, 122, 147, 189 Tyne, river 22, 32, 175, 263 Hall 152, 215 Tynemouth 22, 175, 230, 263 Palace 209 Tyrell, Admiral 149 Westmoreland 21 Whitehall, London 153 U Wicklow 337, 358, 362 Willem III 339 Utrecht xxxiv, 253 William III of England 171, 184, V 257, 275 Wilton, Joseph 46, 164, 172, 195 Valais 373 Wilton House 46, 164 Van Dyck, Anthony 144, 154, 165 Wiltshire 13, 114 Venice 79, 141 Wimpole 196 Vivarais 373 Winchester 130, 162, 163, 253 Winchester Cathedral 163 W Windsor 12, 157, 158 Wakefield 265 Windsor Lodge 158 Walpole, Sir Robert 103, 196 Woburn Abbey 194 Wanstead 57 Woburn Farm 56 Wardour Castle 168 Woid, Lord Dr 137 Warrington 231, 237 Wolfe, James 148 Warwick, Earl of 187 Wolsey, Cardinal 192 town 186, 266 Woodstock 237, 244 Weddell, Mr 180 Woolwich 227 Wedgwood, Mr 242 Worcester 171, 232, 238, 243, 258 Welbeck 42 Worcestershire 17 Wells Cathedral 170 Worksop Manor 184 Welsh mountains 13, 16 Worsley 33 410

INDEX

Wright 149 Y Wye, river 15 York 44, 99, 100, 115, 127, 175, 176, 177, 246, 264 Yorkshire 22, 23, 50, 54, 99, 114, 129, 183, 232, 243, 365

411

JOHAN MEERMAN About the Course WEM 4

The course WEM4: Translating and Editing focuses on giving student studyin) the ‘asters pro)ramme Writin), Editin), and Mediating practical information and skills regarding the processes of translating, editing, and eventually publishing a literary work. Students work together to complete one large scale project over the course of one semester, and the goal is for the end product to be of publishable standard.

Berber Aardema Alexandra Kunz

Julian Bonierbale Derrick Manzanares

Hanna Breukers Femke Nagelhout

Ron Delker Wesley Pechler

Pauliene van Eldik Kirsten Pleijsier

Evelien Faassen Ian D. Snel

Madelon Franssen Sofia Tiira

Lysbeth Hofstra Christa Tjadens

Riemer van der Hoop Durkje van der Veen

Janieke Koning Priya Visavadia

412

“Even if England lacks the astonishing diversity of objects that interest foreigners, more than any kingdom in Europe, and if it ofers nothing but itself to the traveller´s impatient curiosity, then, ater travelling through this country, one would have to be insensible to all of nature`s beauty in order to doubt or criticise the sight of this most extraordinary creation on earth.”

These are the opening lines of the Johan Meerman’s account of England, illustrating the almost poetic eye of the eighteenth-century Dutch author. Meerman’s writing breathes his joy of travelling, and his account of eighteenth-century Great Britain and Ireland becomes an extraordinary historical perspective in this irst translation into English.

Explore the castles, caves, and estates; experience the traditions, celebrations, and political turmoil; witness the beauty of nature and the birth of architectural landmarks. Meerman’s Some Messages Concerning Great Britain and Ireland proves both an interesting subject for academic research, as well as a generally great read.