Juan Miguel Echevarría's
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HAVANA BY DAYLIGHT AND MOONLIGHT. All-inclusive, round-trip cruises from Miami and Orlando to Cuba with an overnight in Havana. By foot or vintage car, discover something new in Old Havana, including the Savor incredible moments on board, from nightly entertainment Spend your night ashore strolling Old Havana. Take in the baroque iconic Capitol, the former Cuban congress. Visit where Hemingway penned to a variety of delicious cuisine. cathedral, historic Fountain of the Lions and more, just steps away The Old Man and the Sea. And try your hand at cigar rolling. from your ship. Cruise from Havana to cabana at our private island in the Bahamas, Great Stirrup Cay. Snorkel in crystal-blue waters, kayak along the shore or simply fl oat in a sheltered lagoon. Experience the sultry rhythms, weathered beauty and rich traditions of Cuba on an unforgettable cruise with Norwegian Cruise Line. Spend the night in Havana and immerse yourself in the people and culture of this fascinating island nation. Marvel at contemporary Cuban art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Then enjoy a sunset stroll in historic Old Havana at your leisure, thanks to no fi xed dining times or pre-assigned seating. As you cruise from Cuba to our private island in the Bahamas, Great Stirrup Cay, savor incredible moments on board from a variety of delicious cuisine to amazing entertainment to Free Unlimited Open Bar. It’s all-inclusive — and all yours to discover. CALL YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR 1.888.NCL.CRUISE OR VISIT NCL.COM Norwegian offers OFAC-compliant cruises and shore excursions with Another round of mojitos? Yes, please. Enjoy Free Unlimited Open Bar on Norwegian is the only cruise line offering 4-day round-trip cruises from ©2017 NCL Corporation Ships’ Registry: BAHAMAS and USA 35298 9/17 so many opportunities to immerse yourself in the rich culture of Cuba. board Norwegian Sun and Norwegian Sky and on shore while relaxing at Miami and Orlando with an overnight in Havana. Great Stirrup Cay. EDITOR´S LETTER CUBAN PEOPLE When people visit Cuba they are struck by its very beautiful beaches; the beauty of its colonial cities; hills and rivers; the spectacular seabed along its coasts; and yes, of course, the old cars and the strange “exotic” mystic of living in revolution; but undoubtedly, what’s extraordinary PRESIDENT HUGO CANCIO about Cuba is its people. [email protected] Behind, in the middle, at the side, over, holding everything, are the peo- ple, with their lives, their joys, their loves, their miseries, their rhythm, their sorrow, their fears, their certainties. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR TAHIMI ARBOLEYA I don’t believe we Cubans are “special” beings; we share much of the [email protected] Caribbean spirit; of the Spanish traditions and soul; of the African es- sence; neither are we a compact mass, all Cubans don’t know how to dance, all of them don’t like rum, not all of them play dominoes or EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ARIEL MACHADO speak loudly, we are not all blacks or whites and, although we have the [email protected] most “unanimous” Parliament in the world, nothing is more difficult than getting two Cubans to come to an agreement. SALES DIRECTOR But it is true that when visiting Cuba one finds something that’s ex- JORGE RUIZ traordinary in its people. Many say that it is the way of “sharing” the [email protected] much and the little there is; others say that Cubans really know how to laugh and have fun (we also know how to cry and suffer); others have told me how close the people feel; others of the culture and the educa- DESIGN & LAYOUT PATRICIO HERRERA VEGA tion they didn’t expect to find. I still don’t know what it is, but something extraordinary happens to PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR JORGE LUIS BORGES those who visit Cuba and interact with the Cubans, no one remains in- different, intact. Things move, they shake. COPYEDITING CHARO GUERRA There’s something else beyond governments, ideologies, life’s bureau- cracy. I unquestionably and openly invite you to Cuba. Go with open eyes, ready to be moved, to listen, to observe and feel. TRANSLATION MERCEDES GUILLOT WEB EDITOR CUBA MÓNICA RIVERO [email protected] ON THE COVER: Cuban People / Patricio Herrera Vega Articles may be reproduced, in whole or in part, as long as the source is cited. Reproduction of photographs without the editor’s permission is prohibited. Any views or opinions expressed are those of the articles’ authors, and do not necessarily reflect the views of OnCuba. Tahimi Arboleya Editorial Director > OnCuba and the OnCuba logo are registered® trademarks of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., its subsidiaries or divisions. > OnCuba Travel is a trademark™ of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., its subsidiaries or divisions. > Oncuba Travel a publication of Fuego Media Group, a division of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., a publicly traded company (FUGI). > OnCuba © 2012 by Fuego Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved. CONONCUBATENTS TRAVEL MAGAZINE CUBAN TIPS INTERVIEW Brief Tour of Havana Tosco and Cortés JORGE JAVIER MIRANDA MÓNICA RIVERO All cities have their twists and turns, not all the charms are in plain view. José Luis Cortés concentrates a powerful mixture of musical genius If you come to Havana, you have to see these places I recommend to and a personal shrillness. That authentic way of being turns him into a really “have been” here. character. There’s a powerful testimony in him. 47 22 26 CUBA WITH CHRISTOPHER BAKER ECONOMY & BUSINESS PHOTO FEATURE ART & CULTURE (Not) A Moveable Feast Cruise Tourism to Cuba: the Alocubano The Houses Hermes Mallea Actor/director David Soul’s effort to restore Ernest Hemingway’s 1955 Sweet and the Sour The Cuba My Eyes See Discovers in Havana Chrysler New Yorker in Cuba has begun to resemble the agonizing battle with a giant marlin of Santiago, the seasoned fisherman displaying RAFAEL BETANCOURT KERSTIN HERNÁNDEZ ERIC CARABALLOSO relentless resolve in The Old Man and the Sea. When in 2015 the Obama government lifted the restrictions that forbid Taking pictures of the ingenious, absurd, fun-loving, enigmatic and color- Havana’s architecture is not only the big colonial works and the colossal ships that stopped in Cuba from putting in at U.S. ports, the cruise trips ful Cuba is a passionate entertainment in my everyday life. edifications of the first years of the Revolution. Cuban-American architect 12 to the “Pearl of the Caribbean” shot up. Since in life nothing is black or Hermes Maella “discovers” houses in Havana that tell their own stories. white, I recommend this analysis of the advantages and disadvantages 32 the cruise trips represent for the island. 38 18 SPORTS MADE IN CUBA ONCUBA RECOMMENDS PERSPECTIVE Juan Miguel Echevarría’s Long A Great Museum Two in El Vedado Azutecnia: Innovations in Jumps for a Great Rum CECILIA CRESPO Cuban Sugar Agribusiness Two restaurants in Havana that leave a bit of the city on your lips. ALIET ARZOLA LIMA CECILIA CRESPO EDUARDO GONZÁLEZ MARTÍNEZ From way down in La Guernica, Juan Miguel Echevarría jumped to fame, There are persons who can’t place the island of Cuba in the Caribbean 64 Together with productivity, innovation and ingenuity are the keys for the but he continues being a young man with many dreams and goals. His Sea that guards it, but they do know that the world’s best rum is made in country to recover its former splendor in the cultivation of sugarcane. ambition is discovered in each ruling. Cuba. Aren’t you intrigued to find out how and why? That is the raison d’etre of Azutecnia, one of the enterprises that is mov- ing Cuba toward the modernization of the sugar agribusiness. 44 50 66 BETWEEN SUNSET & SUNRISE LIGHTS AND SHADOWS El Mesón de la Flota, Passion “There Will Always be Stories Is Always True to be Told” ONCUBA TRAVEL MAGAZINE ÁNGEL MARQUÉS DOLZ ESTRELLA DÍAZ The Mesón de la Flota, just a few steps away from the bay of Havana, Every artist has a universe from where their work emerges. NUR’s eye entraps any traveler. On the one hand, a good wine with fragrant seafood. focuses on the intimacy, on self-reflection. The mask – like an icon – con- On the other, music and flamenco dancing. There’s nothing you can do venes us to think about who we really are and toward where and up to where but give up. Passions order. Enjoy! we want to get in the brief blink of an eye that life is. CONTENTS 54 58 47 CONTRIBUTORS KERSTIN HERNÁNDEZ ERIC CARABALLOSO ALIET ARZOLA LIMA CECILIA CRESPO I was born in Leningrad and have always lived Talking of baseball (or of soccer). Eating (Cuban) Life led me to become a journalist and I enjoy There are times when I talk nonstop, although I in Cuba. I studied ballet and later cybernetics. I tamales. Listening to Sting or Habana Abierta. it to my heart’s content, but I will always have also listen. My silent aspect is only seen when shuffle my life looking for time to do the things Enjoying Blade Runner (the original one) or the spirit of an athlete. Every day I bat 50 balls I cling to my keyboard. I have a passion for my I like. Modern Family. And reading, and writing, and and pitch the same amount from an imaginary family and for a long time for Cuban culture reading. I ask for no more. mound; at times I do it alone when at home, at and a delicious book I am writing to distribute Alocubano times in the middle of the street.