Photo courtesy of Tha K Club

“K” Club GolfingGolfing IrelandIreland

By Jason Deegan who are legendary for their , held at the lavish ability to throw a good party. K-Club just outside of , t's hard to tell who's more Or could it be the U.S. will be the biggest sporting excited as the 2006 Ryder and European golf fans travel- event ever held in the Emerald ICup prepares to visit ing to attend the event? Many Isle. Many visitors will tee it for the first time this will likely be first-timers to up at several of Ireland's 400- September. one of the world's greatest golf plus courses, pumping a Is it the Irish? They're destinations. wealth of cash into an already certainly a golf-happy bunch It's a winning proposi- booming economy. tion for both parties. The For golfers, Ireland is

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the game's version of who have made the trip to pre- or post-Ryder Cup romp Disneyland, an amusement Ireland, moaning about the through Ireland, an itinerary to of courses from the leg- pelting rain, the blistering cold consider might be the new endary of Waterville and and the tractors that can slow Emerald Triangle, an alliance Tralee to the unheralded inland traffic on back roads to a between three of the country's layouts of Mullingar and crawl. Don't let them scare you most elegant accommodations. Rathsallagh. away. It's a once-in-a-lifetime A half-day's drive separates the You've probably heard adventure to tee it up here. Rathsallagh House Golf & horror stories from friends If you're considering a Country Club in Wicklow, just tesy of The K Club Photo cour

“K” Club Clubhouse

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Tralee Golf Club south of Dublin; the Irish airline, Aer Lingus ter, a surprising alarm clock Sandhouse Hotel in (www.aerlingus.com), takes for my early tee time at the Rossnowlagh in the northwest under eight hours from 7,200-yard course on the prop- tip of Ireland and Glenlo Chicago, the nearest portal for erty. Designed by Christy Abbey Hotel in Galway, a Michiganders. From Dublin, O'Connor Jr. and Peter vibrant college town along the it's less than an hour's drive to McEvoy, Rathsallagh Golf west coast. All three are fami- Rathsallagh (www.rathsal- Club rambles around trees and ly-owned and distinctly differ- lagh.com), a large country over creeks. It's a good warm ent, yet also among the finest house set on 530 acres in the up for the tougher tracks that properties on the island. rolling pastures of Dunlavin lie ahead. Two other champi- There's some tricky County. onship venues, the K-Club, driving on the wrong side of The country house was also home to the Smurfit the road involved to follow the converted from Queen Anne , and Mount Emerald Triangle (www.emer- stables in 1798 and is the pride Juliet, the site of the 2002 ald3.com), but what a better and joy of the O'Flynn family. American Express excuse to travel a majestic The Rathsallagh dining hall Championship, are both within countryside and discover some serves country cooking, with an hour's drive. great golf along the way. The specialties in fresh fish and If you've got time, head trip will also help steer you game. to downtown Dublin, where away from the crowds of Staying here feels like the original Guinness golfers around Dublin proper. miles from civilization. I was Storehouse factory (www.guin- A flight to Dublin on the awakened by a crowing roos- nessstorehouse.com) draws the

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thirsty from around the world transformed the Sandhouse designed by Irish icon Eddie for tours. Even if you're not a from a fishing lodge built in Hackett, encompasses a fan of the thick brew, you'll the 1830s to a modern country windswept peninsula that juts find the rumors are true: it house with an award-winning into Donegal Bay, weaving does taste better here. restaurant, the Seashell, and through subtle duneland and To break up the longest The Marine Spa. The providing soul-stirring views journey of the Emerald Sandhouse pub is home to a of the ocean. Triangle, golfers are welcome tribute of surfing, a sport many Another must-play on to stop at Mullingar Golf Club Brittons have mastered. Family the trip, the 27-hole (www.mullingargc.com), a pri- trophies and surf boards cover Enniscrone Golf Club, rests 50 vate club that boasts one of the walls. Just a few miles miles away in a small seaside countryman James Braid's best from the hotel, massive waves hamlet known for its seaweed designs. Founded in 1894, the offer some of the best surfing baths. English architect Donald 6,478-yard Mullingar moved in Europe. Steel's nine-hole addition and five times before finding its The same could be said redesign from 1999-2001 home among the hills of for the golf. The 60-room helped Enniscrone evolve into Belvedere. Sandhouse is within an hour's one of Ireland's most thrilling If your score suffers on what drive of six of the Ireland's top golf experiences. The dunes looks like a docile course, links, all served by the travel rise sometimes 130 feet above don't feel bad. It's good agency West Coast Links sea level, looking more like enough to host the Mullingar (http://www.-northandwest- skyscrapers than hills of sand Scratch Trophy, a tournament coastlinks.com). Closest is the and grass. Both Enniscrone with a history of identifying Donegal Golf Club and Murvagh have been Ireland's greatest players. (http://www.donegalgolfclub.ie ranked among the top 100 in Former winners include Darren ), called Murvagh by the the British Isles by Golf Clarke in 1989, Paul McGinley locals. The par-73 Donegal World. in 1991 and Padraig plays long and demanding at The final destination of Harrington in 1994 - three 7,160 yards. The course, the Emerald Triangle, Glenlo names the U.S. Ryder Cup team knows all to well. The com- mute after the round will be rewarded by the understated lux- ury of the Sandhouse (www.sand- house-hotel.ie), a pink landmark that abuts the beautiful Rossnowlagh beach on the tesy of Sandhouse Hotel shores of the Atlantic Ocean. The Britton Photo cour family has Sandhouse Hotel

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Abbey (www.glenlo.com) in rants. The Pullman Restaurant From Galway, you've Galway, isn't positioned as is one of Ireland's most unique got two choices - make the well as the others when it dining experiences. Patrons eat cross-country trek back to comes to nearby courses, but tasty meals in dining carriages, Dublin to fly home or extend its five-star elegance and soft one an original car from the your trip to head south to the beds will allow you a chance Orient Express that carried the country's most popular golf to recharge and become a reg- rich throughout Europe during destination and fly home ular tourist for a day. its heyday. through the regional airport in The private estate on A simple 9-hole, dou- Shannon. 138 acres opened as a 20-bed- ble-green course resides on the On my visit, I couldn't room hotel in 1992. Owners Glenlo Abbey property, but find time to visit Ireland's pre- Peggy and John Bourke have skip it to spend a day in mier golf headliners in the renovated the castle-like estate Galway, home to a lively southwest, Lahinch and to include 46 bedrooms, nine downtown center with shop- Ballybunion. Still, I couldn't meeting room and two restau- ping and some rowdy pubs. be happier with my choices. tesy of Sandhouse Hotel Photo cour

Sandhouse Hotel

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Rathsallagh House Golf & Country Club

The trio of Doonbeg, Tralee winds gusting up to 50 miles- first design in and Waterville all proved an-hour. Two members of my Europe, no longer takes a back memorable. foursome quit in what became seat to its stunning setting. At Doonbeg Golf Club a three-club wind. It was a Several holes follow cliffs that (www.doonbeggolfclub.com) rude welcome to the famously plummet to Barrow Beach in County Claire, Greg fickle weather of Ireland's along the Tralee Bay. Ruins of Norman found what some peo- southwest coastline. a stone tower sit beside the ple consider to be among the Conversely, the follow- third tee box. More ruins, a last great sites for a modern ing day at Tralee Golf Club, 12th-century medieval castle links design. The Lodge at my foursome basked in sun- on nearby Fenit Island, domi- Doonbeg, offering luxury shine. A recent redesign has nate the horizon. suites and a new clubhouse, is elevated the stature of Tralee The next day, two hours set to open this spring. I (www.traleegolfclub.com). The south in County Kerry, played this 6,885-yard track in playability of the course, the Waterville unfortunately lived

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Photo by Steve Uzzell

Doonbeg Golf Club, Hole No. 6

up to its name. Rain drenched the 7,309-yard course No. 5 rarity for a links. Less than us all 18 holes, again forcing among the top 120 courses in five percent of the world's 144 several players to retire to the the world. links courses are considered warmth of the clubhouse for a Waterville (www.water- good enough (and long pint. But I refused to relent, villegolflinks.ie) doesn't have enough) to be of championship considering the praise the dunes of Enniscrone or the caliber. Tiger Woods and Mark bestowed upon the course awe-inspiring vistas of Tralee, O'Meara have made it a regu- since its revamping by Tom although its three finishing lar stop in their preparation for Fazio. Golf Monthly, a holes do hug the coastline. It is the British Open. The late European publication, ranks lauded as a true test of golf, a Payne Stewart visited so often,

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Waterville officials honored divided by old-world stone dream destinations. For more his legacy with a statue, much walls, the flocks of sheep. information, visit like in North They're images to cherish. http://www.tourismireland.com Carolina. Even if you can't find time in . MG The ride back to the air- 2006 for the port offers one last chance to Ryder Cup, soak up Ireland at its core -- Ireland must the thatch roofs on quaint surely be on Video: Golfing in Ireland with Jack Berry homes, the rolling pastures your list of http://michigangolfer.tv/2005shows/golfireland/ Photo by Steve Uzzell

Doonbeg Hotel as seen from the 5th tee

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