The in-flight magazine of Air NiuginI volume 4 july – august 2017 Paradise
PLUS: 50 REASONS TO LOVE PNG LEGENDS OF THE HIRI MOALE NEW WELLNESS & BEAUTY SECTION
in paradise contentS
AIRLINE NEWS TRAVELLER THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD
A message from Air Niugini’s chairman 8
Plane named in memory of Kokoda 10
Engineers return to PNG 10
Rugby league cup launched 12
A 50-year milestone 12
DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 50 reasons to love PNG Things to do, places to see and stay 22 Q&A: Author Rashmii Amoah Bell 14
Going with the breeze Home comforts The legends behind the A luxury Queensland Hiri Moale Festival 34 island resort 36
Battle stations PNG’s ‘Woman of Courage’ Singapore’s war sites 42 US first lady presents award 15 Pitch perfect Rare find of PNG wild dogs 16 In harmony with the locals in Tonga 48
War hero honoured at Jacksons Airport 17 Culture fix Temples, dances and food in Ubud 50 Luxury day spa opens in Port Moresby 17 City guide Everything you need to know about Australia’s Gold Coast 56 Australian PM at Kokoda 18 Out There PNG fishing expedition 20 Bougainville waterfalls and rainforest 64
Great Barrier Reef threat 20 Three of a kind Museums 66
Review Hotel Morobe, Lae 68
Time Traveller 70
4 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine in paradise contentS
LIVING SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL FEATURE
Staying buoyant Where to now for the Solomon Islands economy? 116
BSP backs Solomons A banker’s overview of the economy 119
Review Heritage Park Hotel, Honiara 120
Tips for business travellers 122 Kokoda remembered Our expert guide to one of World War 2’s most famous conflicts 72 BRAIN GYM Shelling out QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD Making of a money wheel 88 Crosswords, puzzles 124 A piece of PNG Baskets 90 Quiz: How well do you know the region? 125
Wheelchair odyssey Solutions 126 A journey across PNG 92
Animal kingdom ARRIVALS LOUNGE PNG is a biologists’ dream 96 PNG VISITOR GUIDE
Spotted In Advice, where to eat, hotels 128 PNG athlete in Texas 102 Tok Pisin words and phrases 134 Look good, feel good Wellness and beauty 104 Port Moresby street map 135 136 Some like it hot 84 Gadgets and Lae street map The PNG spice trade travel accessories 106
Movie previews 108 AIR NIUGINI PASSENGER INFORMATION 138
Book previews 110 In-flight entertainment highlights 140
STRICTLY BUSINESS PEOPLE, COMPANIES, INDUSTRIES
Currency for the future PNG entrepreneur’s push for Bitcoin 112
Laying solid foundations The building company making its mark across PNG 114
Cover photo: Private George Whittington, an Aussie soldier in the Kokoda Campaign, is helped by fuzzy wuzzy angel Raphael Oimbari near Buna in 1942. PICTURE: AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL See our story on page 72.
July – August 2017 5 Paradise Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, Papua New Guinea’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year.
BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL EDITOR Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for Robert Upe this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally PUBLISHING DIRECTOR recognised standard for environmental management. This Andrew Wilkins STAFF WRITERS publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock David James, Kevin McQuillan is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR sustainable forestry practices. Robert Hamilton-Jones CONTRIBUTORS Mark Andrews, Richard Andrews, Meghan Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER those first published on the online PNG business magazine, Blackstock, John Brooksbank, Greg Clarke, Adam businessadvantagepng.com. Charles Saldanha Constanza, Bronwen Gora, Belinda Jackson, Brian +61 (0)404 842 472 Johnston, Nina Karnikowski, Grace Maribu, Kirsten Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and [email protected] McGavin, Monica McInnes, Mary O’Brien, Tim photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept Richards, Matt Shea, Craig Tansley, Peter Williams Business Advantage International Pty Ltd responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this Level 20, 31 Queen Street, Melbourne, AIR NIUGINI EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS publication may be reproduced without the written permission Victoria, 3000, Australia Illan Kaprangi, Nori Maniana of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view Tel +61 3 9111 0044 Fax + 61 3 8678 1269 expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily www.businessadvantageinternational.com DESIGN represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile Information contained in this publication may be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may Editorial inquiries be subject to change at any time and without notice. Tel +61 3 9111 0044 CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE © Copyright. 2017. All rights reserved. [email protected] The Chief Executive Officer Air Niugini Paradise online PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea www.airniuginiparadise.com Tel +675 327 3458 Fax +675 327 3550
Building solutions for diverse and challenging projects
n Social infrastructure n Industrial and affordable housing n Facility buildings n Framecad steel framing systems and building materials RHODES Portion 2733 Napa Napa Road, [email protected] EmpowEring CommunitiEs through Porebada, Central Province, PNG www.rhodespng.com BUILDINGsoCial infra sSYSTEMtruCturE +675 7144 8773 www.rhodesprojects.com.au
6 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Unmistakably PNG’s finest hotel. Welcome to Papua New Guinea’s masterpiece.
Call +675 302 8888 to secure your stay, email [email protected] or visit www.thestanleypng.com Welcome aboard Fully Serviced Apartments s we enter the second half of smoothly and will be delivered on schedule. It will also deliver some a busy year for Air Niugini, I important cost savings for Air Niugini at a time when we are focusing For Lease welcome the opportunity to on reducing costs that don’t compromise safety or service. Aupdate our valued passengers Air Niugini will conduct an extensive marketing and information and business partners on three key campaign highlighting the modern and extended online services we Long or Short Term... areas that the board and management will offer when Sabre is fully implemented. The campaign will build are focused on delivering. on other business customer focused initiatives we have implemented, Air Niugini has now taken delivery including the new Port Moresby Business Travel Centre. of all nine Fokker 70 (F70) aircraft, The third area Air Niugini will be focusing on, in the second half of acquired from KLM Royal Dutch this year, will be the introduction of direct commercial services to Airlines. They will be fully in service Shanghai, China, in December. in the coming months when branding, Having successfully introduced regular services to the Federated refurbishing and installation of Wi-Fi are completed. The refurbishing States of Micronesia, and Townsville in North Queensland, the direct includes the installation of customised business class seating. service to China is our next priority. Since we began the introduction of the F70 aircraft just over 18 months Our team will be seeking to work closely with the Tourism Promotion ago, we have been monitoring customer feedback, as well as carrying Authority (TPA), the travel industry and business to ensure the out our own detailed assessment of the performance of the aircraft. introduction of this service is successful. The response from passengers has been very positive. Air Niugini and the TPA will host a series of ‘China Ready’ The positive response matches our own assessment of the aircraft workshops in the coming months to prepare our commercial partners, for fuel efficiency and other key factors that were influential when the and other customers, for the new direct flights. There is no doubt management and the board decided to make the introduction of the F70 that both the tourism and business sectors will benefit greatly. the key component of the largest fleet upgrading in Air Niugini’s history. It will also further enhance the development of Port Moresby as The F70 will become the ‘work horse’ of the airline’s main domestic a regional hub. services, and our regional services in the Pacific region. Its smooth The direct service will also enhance Papua New Guinea’s already introduction is a tribute to our management, and our flight crew, strong diplomatic, trade, investment, and people-to-people links with engineering and ground support staff. the world’s fastest-growing nation. The second major area Air Niugini is focusing on is the progressive In conclusion, I commend to you the excellent article in this edition switch to the Sabre Solutions Passenger Service System (PSS). by the editor, titled ‘Fifty reasons to love PNG’. It brings together in AIRWAYS RESIDENTIAL LIVING Sabre is the world’s largest PSS provider. one article a snapshot of just how much PNG has to offer our visitors, MISTY MOUNTAINS....SUNRISE The changeover will take effect from October 1, and will deliver the and our own community. Air Niugini is proud of the role it plays in most modern and reliable e-commerce services that are available. helping to meet the growing opportunities our tourism industry has They will include multiple fare access, bookings, seat selection, today and in the future. check-in, and the whole range of other online products the Sabre Enjoy your flight. system makes available to major airlines around the world. In a competitive environment – domestically, regionally and internationally – Air Niugini is determined to provide the most reliable and efficient services for all our passengers and commercial partners. The switch in our PSS supplier means challenges for our Sir Frederick Reiher, KCMG, KBE MP _1716463 management and staff. I am delighted the change is happening very Chairman, Air Niugini Limited It’s really so much better here...
8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Tel: (675) 325 4366 | email: [email protected] | www.airwaysresidences.com.pg Fully Serviced Apartments For Lease Long or Short Term...
AIRWAYS RESIDENTIAL LIVING MISTY MOUNTAINS....SUNRISE MP _1716463 It’s really so much better here... Tel: (675) 325 4366 | email: [email protected] | www.airwaysresidences.com.pg Airline news The latest from Air Niugini
Engineers return to PNG after study
en young Air Niugini engineers, including two women, have returned to Papua New Guinea with their Taircraft maintenance engineer (AME) certificates after completing a four-year engineering cadet program in New Zealand and Australia. The cadets studied at the Air New Zealand Training Institute, in Christchurch, and with Namesake … Prime Minister Peter O’Neill (second from right) at the aircraft naming ceremony with the Aviation Australia at the Cairns Aviation Minister for Tourism, Tobias Kulang; Cardinal Sir John Ribat; Air Niugini chairman, Sir Frederick Reiher; Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon Foo; and other dignitaries. Skills Centre. They include Elena Mai, Lyndah Eremas, Kelvin Piongats, Gavin Eron, Ronald Kayoka, Raphael Vagi, Robstoan Gare Eremugo, Air Niugini names plane Nathan Poy Ulastone, Damien Kadiko and Solomon Kawage. The program was fully funded by Air Niugini, Kokoda, announces at a cost of more than PGK5 million. Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon Foo, congratulated the AMEs and said Air special $75 fare Niugini invests millions of kina towards staff training annually. He said the achievement by the cadets ne of Air Niugini’s Fokker 70 He said the naming of the aircraft will help is a bonus for Air Niugini because the aircraft has been named Kokoda keep the memory of Kokoda alive, and that airline is in the process of building its own in commemoration of the 75th the campaign did not just define a battle in maintenance, repair and overhaul facility anniversary of the Kokoda Trail. Papua New Guinea, but the struggle for the in Port Moresby. O “Having our own hangar will allow the Prime Minister, Peter O’Neill, who whole of the Pacific during World War 2. officiated at the naming ceremony at He also said the naming of the plane is a employees to continue their training and build Jacksons International Airport earlier this move that encourages the growth of tourism their experiences here in Papua New Guinea. year, thanked Air Niugini for its recognition that’s specifically linked to war-time history. It also cuts down on the huge costs that we of the Kokoda Campaign. Air Niugini chairman, Sir Frederick Reiher, currently incur sending our planes overseas said it is a significant gesture to remember for overhauls and maintenance.” those involved in the war, including the Air Niugini has 37 cadet engineers in various ex-service personnel of PNG, Australia, stages of the program, six are women. n New Zealand, their descendants and the carriers, now immortalised by the name ‘fuzzy wuzzy angels’. Sir Frederick also announced a special $AUD75 airfare, per sector, for passengers arriving in PNG on Air Niugini flights this PICTURE: AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL WAR AUSTRALIAN PICTURE: year to walk the trail and visit other parts Welcome back … Air Niugini chief executive of PNG. n officer, Simon Foo, and his management team with the 10 aircraft maintenance engineers who In the war zone … ‘fuzzy wuzzy angels’ taking studied in New Zealand and Australia. care of a World War 2 soldier.
10 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine airline news The latest from Air Niugini Airline sponsors rugby league cup
he inaugural Air Niugini Kokoda Cup to Townsville direct service. It also was launched at the National Football commemorates the 75th anniversary of Stadium in Port Moresby during a Kokoda, an important event in the history T recent rugby league match between of Papau New Guinea and Australia. the SP PNG Hunters and the Townsville “As an airline, Air Niugini appreciates and Blackhawks. commemorates the importance of Kokoda, its Six Air Niugini cabin crew in full uniform significance and what it means to both PNG carried the cup on to the field and handed it to and Australia. This cup is also in appreciation the team captains during a colourful ceremony. of the recently launched service between Port Moresby and Townsville.” He said the cup will be given a different name each year to commemorate important events in PNG. Triumphant … the Kokoda Cup in the hands of the The cup promotes sports PNG Hunters after a big win over the Townsville Air Niugini’s general manager customers Blackhawks. tourism between Port and markets, Dominic Kaumu, said the cup Moresby and Townsville. strengthens the sister-city relationship return. And those in Townsville can come between Port Moresby and Townsville. It also up here to do business and watch the game promotes sports tourism between the cities. in our newest sports facilities.” He encouraged Papua New Guineans Air Niugini operates two direct services The teams will play for the cup each year living in and around Townsville, supporters from Port Moresby to Townsville each week, and first honours went to the Hunters, of the Blackhawks as well the business every Monday and Friday. who romped home 42–4 in the round 12 and corporate community, to make use PNGRFL chief executive officer, Reatau Queensland Intrust Cup match. of the event. Rau, thanked Air Niugini for its continuous Air Niugini acting chief executive officer, “Those in Port Moresby can also fly to support of the SP PNG Hunters as well as Marco McConnell, said the cup recognises Townsville to watch SP PNG Hunters play, rugby league throughout the country with the airline’s recently launched Port Moresby visit families and friends, do business and discounted airfares. n Logo marks 50-year milestone n Air Niugini Fokker 70 aircraft is NBPOL started operations in West New carrying the logo of New Britain Britain half a century ago and its plantations Palm Oil (NBPOL) to commemorate now cover 83,000 hectares of oil palm in six Athe company’s 50th anniversary. locations: West New Britain, Ramu Valley, The logo was unveiled during a recent Milne Bay, Poliamba and Higaturu in Papua ceremony at Hoskins airport, attended by New Guinea and the Guadalcanal Province NBPOL, Air Niugini and the local community. in the Solomon Islands. Apart from oil palm, NBPOL also has sugar Logo lineup … (from left) general manager plantations, cattle, refineries and oil palm of Poliamba Oil Palms, Roland Soupa; NBPOL country manager, Robert Nilkare; general seeds – employing thousands of Papua manager, Harry Brock; board members Ernie New Guineans. n Gangloff and Sir Brown Bai; and Air Niugini’s Dominic Kaumu.
12 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
Departure Lounge News, briefings, local knowledge Paradise Q&A RASHMII AMOAH BELL We talk to editor of My Walk to Equality: Essays, Stories and Poetry by Papua New Guinean Women, the first anthology of PNG women’s writing.
Q: Where did the idea for My Walk to I was born in Lae and studied in Australia, PICTURES: TANIA BASIOU Equality come from? where I now live. A: I was a guest speaker at the Brisbane Q: What got you into writing? Writers Festival in September 2016, and A: I’ve always loved reading, so writing was one of the questions my panel asked of the just a natural progression. I’d always read audience was: ‘What would you like to read the New York Times online and just practise more of regarding PNG?’ The overwhelming writing. Raising young children, I’d response was that people wanted to read create word lists for them, and more positive stories, particularly from Papua I used to have a personal blog. for yourself. People might New Guinean women. Phil Fitzpatrick from After some unsuccessful be offended by your work, Pukpuk Publications jumped on board with attempts at publishing my especially if it’s a critical the idea and, by the end of that month, I’d work, I finally had success or satirical piece, but you put a call out for potential contributors. with Keith Jackson’s PNG can’t let that bother you Q: The journey from idea to publication Attitude – an online platform – and it won’t, if you write happened very quickly, didn’t it? focusing on Papua New for yourself. A: Yes. Submissions closed just three Guinea–Australia relations, Q: What’s next? months later, with the finished product which discusses contemporary Hopefully, another anthology featuring the work of 45 Papua New Guinean Papua New Guinean issues. – I’d like to showcase Papua women writers. The book was published in Q: Do you have any advice New Guineans’ expertise in paperback and digital download in January, for beginner writers? critical thinking. I’ll also and we launched the book in both Australia A: Read be a guest speaker and Papua New Guinea in March, to coincide everything and at this year’s with International Women’s Day. anything, Brisbane Writers Q: What’s the best thing about My Walk and don’t Festival, talking to Equality? be afraid about My Walk A: The book fills a void, celebrating the work to get into to Equality. n of so many Papua New Guinean writers, and different My Walk their commentary on PNG life. A fantastic genres. I’m to Equality: side-effect of this has been that some of the reading a lot Essays, Stories contributors have also gained the confidence of science and Poetry by to go on and continue to express themselves texts at the Papua New creatively. Vanessa Gordon’s performance moment, Guinean Women poetry clips are a great example. The book’s which has is available at both a platform and an advocate for PNG helped to amazon.com. literature and creativity. broaden my Q: Where are you from? vocabulary, — KIRSTEN A: Sio village in the Tewaii-Siasi local scope and McGAVIN level government area, Morobe Province. technique. Write
14 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE with Robert Upe PICTURE: US DEPARTMENT OF STATE OF DEPARTMENT US PICTURE: PNG woman honoured in US awards
Women of courage … PNG’s Veronica Simogun receives her award from America’s first lady Melania Trump (right); the winners of the Women of Courage awards with the first lady and under secretary Shannon Pose (above).
apua New Guinean and graduated with a certificate have demonstrated exceptional Veronica Simogun has in civil aviation in 1981. She courage and leadership in been recognised in the worked with the Department of advocating for peace, justice, Pannual International Civil Aviation for six years before human rights, gender equality, Women of Courage awards moving back to her home village and women’s empowerment, handed out by the US in 1986 to assist her church and often at personal risk. Department of State. community in the promotion of Since the inception of the She recieved her award in safe and healthy living. awards in 2007, the Department the US from the first lady, Her life-long desire has been to of State has honoured over Melania Trump. see strong communities, where 100 women from 60 countries. Simogun is the director of the families are happily secure and Awardees, alongside Simogun, Family for Change Association women and children live free this year included human based in Wewak, East Sepik from violence and intimidation. rights and social activists from Province. She founded the Risking her own safety, she has countries including Botswana, association in 2012 and has intervened to protect women Colombia, Bangladesh and Iraq. been helping women affected experiencing gender-based As part of the awards, the by violence ever since, funding violence. In the face of death women travelled across the much of the work herself. threats, she has helped shelter US to engage with Americans. Simogun was born in Urip and relocate victims many times. They visited Atlanta, Denver, Des village in the Boykin/Dagua area The International Women Moines, Minneapolis, New York, of Wewak. She studied at the of Courage awards recognise Pensacola, Pittsburgh, Portland, Civil Aviation Training College women around the globe who San Diego and Tampa. n Flag at half mast NUMBER CRUNCH That’s the number of airports or airstrips listed in Papua New Guinea by airport-authority.com. The list he designer of Papua adopted as the country’s flag includes everything from tiny airports with grass strips New Guinea’s flag, at independence in 1975. 393right through to Port Moresby’s Jacksons International Susan Huhume, passed The design was sketched out Airport. However, estimates of the number of airports or airstrips in T away earlier this year. in an exercise book at a Catholic PNG vary, with encyclopedia.com saying there are 571 and ourairports. She was a 15-year-old Mission school she attended com claiming 589. Air Niugini flies scheduled services to 25 airports schoolgirl, in 1971, when she at Yule Island after a national around the country, as well as to 15 international destinations. created the design that was call-out for flag submissions. n
July – August 2017 15 departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Rare wild dogs found in high country
or the first time in more than 50 years, On the prowl … researchers have confirmed the a New Guinea presence of New Guinea Highland wild Highland wild dog. Fdogs (HWD), living at high altitude at Puncak Jaya in Indonesia’s Papua Province. The HWD, similar to the New Guinea Singing Dog, is possibly one of the rarest, most ancient canids currently living, says James McIntyre, the founder/director of field research for New Guinea Highland Wild Dog Foundation, based in Florida in the US. A canid is a lineage of carnivorans, which includes domestic dogs, wolves, foxes, jackals, dingoes, and many other extant and extinct dog-like mammals. Mac says it is the apex predator of New Guinea and what many think is one of the most important canids in existence. 100 photographs of at least 15 dogs, including The next phase of this research will occur “The HWD may be the missing link species females with pups from three to five months later this year, he says. between the first early canids and the old, living in isolated locations between 3700 “This time we will attempt to live-capture modern domestic dog. and 4600 metres above sea level. individuals, immobilise them, conduct “Discovering the dogs was pure elation,” Many, if not most, indigenous New Guinea complete veterinary examinations, collect McIntyre tells Paradise. people and cultures have stories and samples necessary for thorough DNA “It was the culmination of over 20 years traditions involving the HWD. analysis, radio collar selected individuals, trying, countless hours of preparation, and In some cultures, HWDs are highly prized and release. persistence to a point of never taking no for hunting trophies, with their jaws and skulls “DNA will be sequenced back in the an acceptable answer.” displayed proudly. States while we track the selected dogs’ The researchers located tracks, two dens, “Today, the HWD is an invaluable national travels learning about territories, den sites, a trail system used for travel, and other signs treasure and natural resource in its historic and daily patterns – all from our computers of the dogs. ecosystem and range, and we must strive to at home.” n Based on that evidence, along with reports protect and conserve not only its history, but —KEVIN McQUILLAN from locals, trail cameras captured over its future,” says McIntyre.
16 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
A hero remembered
commemorative display for squadron to May in 1942. The attacks preceded the leader John Francis Jackson has Japanese push along the Kokoda Trail. opened at Port Moresby’s Jacksons The squadron was hopelessly outnumbered A International Airport, which is by the Japanese, but was successful in named after him. a number of counter-attacks on Japanese The display, in the international departure aircraft in Lae. lounge, includes a timeline with photos, On one sortie, Jackson ditched into the uniforms, letters home and other artifacts. sea after being shot by Japanese Zeros. He Jackson was an Australian fighter ace who played dead so the Japanese would not shoot served in the Middle East and was awarded him from the air, then swam to shore and the distinguished flying cross, before trekked through jungle back to Port Moresby. becoming a squadron leader in Port Moresby. Just one week later, he was shot down He was one of 12 pilots killed from 75 in his Kittyhawk and killed while defending Squadron that defended Port Moresby during Port Moresby against a Japanese bomber New day spa 44 days of Japanese air attacks, from April attack. n opens in Port Moresby
The Zen Spa has opened at The Stanley Hotel, offering a rejuvenating and therapeutic range of massages in traditional Balinese, Chinese and Thai styles. The spa also has a range of specialist treatments such as acupuncture, Chinese bone setting, thermal cupping and scraping (gua sha). It’s located on the third floor of the hotel and is open daily from 10am to midnight. See facebook.com/ZenSpaStanleyHotel/ The Jackson display ... artifacts, letters and other memorabilia at Jacksons International Airport (above); Jackson with letter in hand (inset). PICTURE: AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL
PNG’s leading zoological, botanical and cultuPNralG’s leadingexperience Cafe Guided Tours Souzvoenirolo giShopcal, b otani Hotel/calAir andpor tcultu Transrfaler e xperience
Cafe Guided Tours Souvenir Shop Hotel/Aiport Transfer U Open 7 days 8:00am - 4:30pm YO R AN Y N U U B A Ph: 326 0248 / 326 Open0258 7 days 8:00am - 4:30pm MEMBERSHIPL Email: reservations. pomnp@Ph:g mai326 l0248.com / 326 0258 Email: reservations. [email protected] TO DAY Goro Kaeaga Road, University (next Gtoro POM Kaeaga RNoaad,tional Universit yH (nighext to PSomchool). National High School).
July – August 2017 17 departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Australian PM’s first visit to PNG
he Australian Prime sacrifice of Australians and Minister, Malcolm Papua New Guineans who stood Turnbull, has made together and held back the T his first official visit Japanese advance. to Papua New Guinea. “Without their sacrifice we The visit included would not be the free the Kokoda Trail, nation we are today, where he went to nor would PNG be commemorate the the free nation it 75th anniversary is today. of the New Guinea “This shared Campaign in World sacrifice, this War 2. shared heroism, this “This morning in Isurava endurance, this mateship, we stood on what was in 1942 this is what kept us free. We the hinge of fate,” Turnbull said. honour them, we thank them.” n He said Australia’s freedom Kokoda remembered, was dependent on the courage, page 72. endurance, mateship and the PNG visit ... the Australian Prime Minister, Malcom Turnbull, at Isurava.
18 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Back to the beach
ore than 150 Whitsundays tourism operators descended on Whitehaven Beach recently to Mroll out their beach towels in a ‘Welcome Back’ message aimed at tourists, as the region recovers from Tropical Cyclone Debbie that struck earlier in the year. Tourism Whitsundays chief executive officer, Craig Turner, says: “It’s important the Catch of world knows that most hotels have opened their doors, tours are back on the water and the day the sun is again shining on the Whitsundays.” Air Niugini flies regularly from Port Moresby his Napoleon wrasse was caught to Brisbane, Cairns and Townsville, from on a recent fishing expedition to where you can access the Whitsundays. Pocklington Reef, on the outer See airniugini.com.pg. n T reaches of Papua New Guinea’s south-eastern waters. The fish is considered endangered by the World Wildlife Fund and it’s rare to Hong Kong’s new hotspot catch one on a rod and reel. John Cruz, from Sport Fishing PNG, ong Kong’s new South Island MTR As a result there’s still a measure of grit, says the fish was handled carefully line opened at the end of last year, but also plenty of cutting-edge venues and released back to the water in good reaching Wong Chuk Hang on the to explore. health. Hsouthern side of Hong Kong Island. One of Wong Chuk Hang’s most interesting He says the nine-day commercial Not a moment too soon for the inquisitive galleries is Spring Workshop (42 Wong expedition, with fishermen from Japan, traveller, as the former industrial district has Chuk Hang Rd), a non-profit experimental went to places where no one has cast been gradually transforming into a hotspot arts space. Its landmark bright yellow art a lure before. of art, design and food. installation, The Industrial Forest (pictured) “Fishing in an un-fished destination is In the 20th century this was an area references the district’s name, which special,’’ he says. “We were met with crammed with factories. The empty space translates as ‘yellow bamboo ditch’. excellent fishing and were able to catch became a playground for creative types. Among other galleries, Blindspot (28 Wong fish after fish, including rare species like Chuk Hang Rd) exhibits photographic work. the Napoleon wrasse, giant trevally, and Plum Blossom (30 Wong Chuk Hang Rd) dogtooth tuna, along with other massive showcases ancient and modern Asian art. reef species that are considered rare in Whitestone Gallery (21 Wong Chuk Hang Rd) other parts of the world.” focuses on Japanese art. Sport Fishing PNG, which operates Shoppers will want to visit Mirth (23 Wong out of Port Moresby, is planning another Chuk Hang Rd), which sells homewares expedition to Pocklington Reef next year. and other items from local designers. Casa The reef is located more than 300 Capriz (23 Wong Chuk Hang Rd) and Manks kilometres from Missima Island, which is (30 Wong Chuk Hang Rd) are noted for their 280 kilometres from Alotau. stylish furniture. As for food, start your day with coffee at See sportfishingpng.net Sensory Zero (2 Heung Yip Rd). For lunch, 3/3rds (6 Heung Yip Rd) specialises in salads and pizza, with a great top-floor view. n —TIM RICHARDS
20 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
traveller our country, our region, our world
reasons to love PNG
PNG has it all, from surfing remote reef breaks, to staying in jungle lodges, watching hundreds of dolphins leap out of the water, dancing at cultural festivals, and eating fresh-caught fish cooked in a fire pit. Start choosing your own adventure with our list of 50 great things to do and places to stay. Robert Upe reports. PICTURES: ROBERT UPE, PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, SPORTFISHING-PNG, AUTHORITY, PROMOTION TOURISM PNG UPE, PICTURES: PNGSURFARIS.COM ROBERT
22 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country
Kokoda Trail hot steam. You should make it to 1This gruelling, hilly and muddy the top in about 30–45 minutes 96-kilometre trek is Papua New from the base. Go with a guide, take Guinea’s most famous attraction. plenty of water, and set off early to Trekkers follow in the footsteps beat the heat. Most hotels in the of World War 2 Allied soldiers region will arrange guides. (mostly Australians) who fought Motorcycle the approaching Japanese. More Eating a mumu tours near Lae than 30 trekking companies, based War history 9 A mumu is a traditional style Niugini Dirt Adventures in PNG and Australia, offer fully PNG was the site of fierce 6 takes bikers off-road on multi- 4 of preparing food. Typically supported tours with transfers, fighting during World War 2. fish, meat or chicken is wrapped day trips near Lae. The terrain Divers and snorkellers can explore guides and porters. is for experienced riders only, sunken war wrecks at numerous in banana leaves and cooked and involves river crossings that locations. Madang has great wreck over coals in a fire pit. It’s offered sometimes require bikes being diving, along with Rabaul. If you widely. Rapopo Resort in Kokopo, loaded into dugout canoes. want to explore above water, there for example, will do it for guests on niuginidirt.com are war cemeteries, memorials, the beach, or try the excellent hotel secret tunnels used by Japanese version (done in the oven) at Mount soldiers, rusting artillery, tanks and Hagen’s McRoyal Hotel. crashed planes to be seen. The war Nuli Sapi museum at Kokopo has a wide- 7This is a delight for travellers ranging collection of World War 2 seeking affordable PNG-style Surfing at Nusa memorabilia, while in Rabaul you accommodation. Located on 2Island Retreat can tour the bunker of Japanese remote Logeia Island, via Alotau There’s a laidback barefoot vibe commander Admiral Isoroku in Milne Bay Province, there are at this small resort with overwater- Yamamoto. Opposite the bunker, four basic thatched overwater huts thatched cottages on an island just the New Guinea Club has made from bush materials. Quiet off Kavieng, in the country’s far an intriguing museum. nights, perhaps with a guitar in Town markets north-east. Daily, there are short the communal kitchen/dining area, 10The markets provide a boat trips to peeling reef breaks – boat excursions, snorkelling, fresh glimpse into a buzzing slice of with no other surfers. In between seafood, swimming and a Saturday local life, where fruit, vegetables, surf sessions, there’s snorkelling market at nearby Samarai Island are livestock and clothing are sold. You over shallow-water war wrecks, on the agenda. Getting there’s an may feel like paparazzi at some and great food, including fresh- adventure; 90 minutes by motorised markets, such as Mount Hagen. caught reef fish. Visit the adjacent dinghy from Alotau. The locals love to have their photos village for local culture and artifacts. facebook.com/NuliSapi/ taken. Their rationale is that if they nusaislandretreat.com can’t travel abroad, they can at least have their images transported Airways Hotel This secure oasis of luxury, to other countries. 3with excellent service, is very Black bass Bird of paradise close to Port Moresby’s Jacksons 5PNG’s famed black bass is PNG’s national bird has long one of the biggest fighting fish 11 International Airport. There are big been a favourite for bird and luxurious rooms befitting a five- going around. Black bass can reach watchers, explorers and naturalists, star property, a day spa, and very ‘monster’ proportions, some up to Volcano climbing among them English broadcaster good eating options – none better 30 kilograms. They’re mainly caught It’s possible to scramble to David Attenborough who has had than Bacchus restaurant, where in rivers, or estuarine water, and 8the top of Mount Tavurvur, a lifelong obsession with them the wagyu is tasty and tender, and the chase for them will take you near Rabaul, and to peer into the because of their spectacular where old-fashioned crepe suzettes to some of PNG’s most remote smoking crater. After crossing the plumage and exotic courtship are cooked with flair and flare at areas, including Lake Murray in the barren moonscape surrounding the rituals. Attenborough has filmed your table. airways.com.pg Western Province. sportfishing- mountain, the steep slopes provide them all over PNG, which has 38 of png; baiafishingpng.com; a challenge. There’s no track, just the world’s 43 species. anglingadventures.net.au loose rock, and fissures letting out
July – August 2017 23 traveller OUR country 50 reasons to love PNG
Kokopo dolphins 16Wake early and take an excursion in Blanche Bay, Kokopo, where spinner dolphins are regulars. Spinners are the acrobats of the dolphin family, rising out of the water and spinning on their axis. Sometimes, there are more than 100 to be seen. Local hotels will arrange tours. Village huts 17stay Village Huts is a local tourism operator that has a range of local-style accommodation on offer, including huts, guesthouses and homestays. Mud Men were originally adorned to scare Artifacts villagehuts.com They look fearsome and enemies. The Mud Men, from a Baskets, bilums, kundu 12 13 Salamaua ghostly, and they’re meant village near Goroka, are one of drums, masks and traditional This is a gorgeous and little- to be. The masks, mud-smeared PNG’s icons. Outside their Highlands weapons are for sale across the 18 known isthmus, perfect for bodies and long bamboo finger territory, they can be seen at country. You can buy them at snorkelling, diving and fishing. It is spikes worn by Asaro Mud Men various cultural shows. villages direct from the makers, about an hour by boat from Lae and at town markets, or, as a last was once the capital of Morobe chance, at Jacksons International Province and a base for Australians Airport from a shop called ‘A Little during World War 2. Something from PNG’. The shop also sells PNG’s prized chocolate Rabaul Hotel and coffee. 19Against all odds, the Rabaul Hotel survived the 1994 Madang Resort eruption of Mount Tavurvur, which 14Located at the entrance buried the town in volcanic ash. to Madang Harbour, the The building was one of the few property has almost a kilometre of left standing and, these days, is a water frontage, a dive shop with thriving hotel, and historic landmark, training facilities, swimming pools in Mango Avenue in the rebuilt and a marina for the 30-metre town. It has about 40 modest Kalibobo Spirit, which does rooms, a highly praised Asian-style Sepik River and island charters. restaurant (it also serves Western The resort’s main restaurant has dishes) and an enthusiastic host/ open dining along the waterfront. owner, Susan McGrade, who is an madangresort.com oracle of local history and things Crystal Rapids to do in the area. 15These cascades, at Sogeri, rabaulhotel.com.pg about 30 minutes’ drive from National Port Moresby, provide welcome Museum & Art respite from the Moresby heat. 20 Gallery There are grassed picnic areas on In Port Moresby, the museum is the riverbanks. Popular with locals. a showcase of culture, artifacts and history. See our story, page 66. museumpng.gov.pg
24 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country 50 reasons to love PNG
Tufi Dive Resort Another of PNG’s star dive 23resorts, remote Tufi in Oro Province is hot for reef and wreck diving, including the World War 2 US bomber, Black Jack. But there’s more than diving and snorkelling: take your pick from kayaking, crocodile Kenu and Kundu fishing, cultural tours, bird watching F e stival F e stival and immersing yourself in nature 26 25 The annual festival in Alotau Held annually at Ambunti, and rainforests where you can see this ferstivsl brings Sepik River is on November 4 and 5 this year orchids and the world’s largest communities together to celebrate and includes canoe racing, kundu butterfly, the Queen Alexandra Bird the cultural significance of the drums, dancing groups, art, craft Wing. tufidive.com crocodile. There’s dancing and and drama performances. Sepik River singing, as well as villagers with Hiri Moale 24 Venture into jungle and to crocodiles. You’ll also see men with F e stival isolated villages along PNG’s crocodile scarification, where their 27This Port Moresby festival Goroka Show longest river and its tributaries. skin has been cut so that the scars coincides with PNG’s independence More than 100 tribes gather 21 There are no roads, so all travel is resemble the back of a crocodile. anniversary on September 16, and at this annual cultural show, by water. The Sepik Spirit is one The festival is on August 5–7. includes the Miss Hiri Queen contest. one of the best in PNG. The show boat that offers comfortable tours. See our story, page 34. celebrates its 50th anniversary this pngtours.com year, on September 16–17.
Take the worry out of finding staff and office accommodation in Port Moresby
Strickland Real Estate combines 50 years of local experience with a client orientated approach to provide a full range of real estate services that will meet all your requirements. • Commercial and residential sales and leasing • Rental management services • Market appraisals • Property consultations Please contact us Walindi as a live-aboard dive boat, the MV +675 320 0944 or +675 7924 1200 Plantation Febrina. Village visits, volcano walks 22 [email protected] Resort and birdwatching are part of the www.sre.com.pg In Kimbe Bay on New Britain offering. Island, this is one of PNG’s top dive walindifebrina.com resorts, with rooms and bungalows in tropical garden settings, as well
July – August 2017 25 traveller OUR country 50 reasons to love PNG
Huli Wigmen 28One of PNG’s most accessible and spectacular waterfalls is the Makara Falls, in the heart of Huli Wigman country in Hela Province. Off the Highlands Highway, it’s a five-minute walk along a bush track to the falls, which are close to Ambua Lodge, part of the stable of properties owned and operated by Trans Driftwood Mount Hagen Niugini Tours. The Huli are a The setting for Driftwood is Cultural Show colourful warrior clan, known for 29 30idyllic – it’s in rainforest on Held annually in August, their red, yellow and white-painted absolute waterfront, near Alotau, the tourist-friendly show is one faces, as well as their elaborate the gateway town to beautiful of the largest tribal gatherings in wigs made from human hair. Milne Bay. There are just 11 cute the country, with more than Despite their warrior status, they white bungalows, and a jetty with 100 tribes displaying their cultural warmly welcome visitors and restaurant and bar. It’s hard to think traditions through song, dance enthusiastically perform sing-sings of a more perfect spot to have and costumes. The show is on and dances. The small town of Tari outdoor dinner and drinks on a August 19–20 this year. is the gateway to the Huli. warm night. pngtours.com driftwoodresortpng.com
26 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country 50 reasons to love PNG
SNORKEL with Tupira 32manta rays 34surf club Snorkel with manta rays In Ulingan Bay, 180 at Gona Bara Bara Island at Milne kilometres north of Madang, the Bay. The rays are attracted to the club provides accommodation island, where a section of fringing for about a dozen surfers who reef has been dubbed as a ‘manta can access five quality breaks. Doini Island ray cleaning station’. The graceful Mount Wilhelm Surfer numbers are capped at Plantation creatures are cleaned of parasites PNG’s highest mountain 20, ensuring uncrowded waves. 31 here by cleaner fish. Tour operators 33 The club hosted the recent World Resort provides a formidable hiking run half-day trips to the small Longboard Championships. After checking out of Driftwood, challenge. It takes three or four (No. 30) hop aboard a motorised island, or you could stay stay for days to reach the 4509-metre facebook.com/Tupira-Surf- open boat at Alotau for a two- several weeks and live alongside summit along a well-defined Club-158686431496/ and-a-half hour journey to the the tiny local community as a track. The rewards include glacial Stanley Hotel island, where you’re greeted with volunteer for Manta Watch Camp. lakes and valleys, high-elevation Port Moresby’s largest and If you’re staying at Doini Island 35 beachfront bungalows and a rainforests and moss-coated newest hotel has stylish castaway vibe. Visit skull caves, (No. 31), they’ll take you across forests, not to mention the rooms, multiple dining choices and kayak, swim, bushwalk and fish. to the mantas for a few hours. views from the top. Several connection to the Vision City Mega Like most PNG lodges, this isn’t mantawatchcamp.org companies provide guided tours. Mall where there are more food so much a ‘sit-by-the-pool with a escapetrekkingadventures. options, cinemas and a nightclub. cocktail’ destination (there’s actually com.au; thestanleypng.com no pool), but it’s more a place for the pngtrekkingadventures.com soft adventurer. doiniisland.com
28 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country 50 reasons to love PNG
Connectivity Kokopo Beach CONNECTING 37You’ll feel totally isolated 40Bungalow in many parts of PNG, R esort especially staying at remote lodges, You can see it all from here: BUSINESSES ACROSS or exploring the Sepik River region. volcanoes, islands and a stunning But that doesn’t mean you need bay where spinner dolphins frolic to be out of touch. Mobile phone (see No. 16). There’s good food in reception and internet connectivity a traditional semi-open haus-win ASIA AND BEYOND is available across most parts of the setting with local timber poles country. Pick up a local sim card at and a sago roof, and comfortable Rondon Ridge Jacksons International Airport. Port Moresby accommodation, but in the resort’s Lodge Nature Park IT’S IN OUR DNA 36 Bougainville range of tours, it also offers home Rolling Stone Mick Jagger 39 More than 150 animals – Largely undiscovered by stays, for a night or two, at Maira stayed here, in the hills overlooking 38 birds of paradise, tree kangaroos, village on Mioko Island. It takes tourists, it’s only now that Mount Hagen. It’s all very stylish hornbills and cassowaries among Open up a world of opportunities in Asia’s key trading markets. Our on-the-ground Bougainville is getting some serious about two hours by boat to get to and includes apartment-style them – live at this park. You’ll tourist activities up and running. the island where you’ll be greeted presence provides regional insights and local expertise, vital to accessing and accommodation, bird-watching also find native gardens with Trek to waterfalls, stay in villages by a posse of friendly and excited navigating local markets. So if you’re looking for a banking partner with a long history excursions, and tours to see Mount 11,000 orchids, gingers, and and travel out to sandy atolls. children. kbb.com.pg Hagen tribesmen in traditional picnic areas. facebook.com/ of delivering for its clients across the Asian region, connect with us. See our story, page 64. Rapopo dress, as well as PNG’s famous portmoresbynaturepark Mud Men. The lodge is part of the [email protected] 41Plantation portfolio of properties owned and R esort operated by Trans Niugini Tours. Tropical gardens, a beautiful pngtours.com swimming pool and views
anz.com/papuanewguinea 30 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine © Australia and New Zealand Banking Group (PNG) Limited. 03/17 HG314 CONNECTING BUSINESSES ACROSS ASIA AND BEYOND IT’S IN OUR DNA
Open up a world of opportunities in Asia’s key trading markets. Our on-the-ground presence provides regional insights and local expertise, vital to accessing and navigating local markets. So if you’re looking for a banking partner with a long history of delivering for its clients across the Asian region, connect with us.
anz.com/papuanewguinea
© Australia and New Zealand Banking Group (PNG) Limited. 03/17 HG314 traveller OUR country 50 reasons to love PNG across Simpson Harbour put this Coffee at Duffy’s Tawali may have one of the best Swimming off white-sand beaches, resort right up there with the best 43PNG is known for its verandahs in PNG for sunset drinks. snorkelling and big-game fishing places to stay if you’re visiting great coffee, and one of Guest bungalows also enjoy the sea are among the activities. Or just be Kokopo and/or Rabaul. There’s the country’s hippest cafes and vistas. This is first and foremost a a castaway and loll in a hammock a dive school and a good range specialty coffee roasters is Duffy’s, divers’ paradise, but there are land with a book. conflictislands.com of land tours. rapopo.com which has outlets in town, Waigani tours (to waterfalls and skull caves) and at the airport at Port Moresby. to keep non-divers interested. Part Try local blends such as ‘Kissed by of the allure is the remote location a Highlander’ and ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy’. in Milne Bay, reached by a long Lissenung and bumpy road trip and then boat 44Island resort transfer. tawali.com The resort is 20 minutes by boat from Kavieng, in New Ireland Province. You can walk around Trobriand the island in about 15 minutes and Islands Swimming there are eight ocean-front rooms. 49 This remote Papua Be sure to take a dip in 42 Diving, surfing, fishing, snorkelling New Guinean archipelago, in the warm turquoise waters and village visits are offered. the Solomon Sea, is a favourite of PNG, with idyllic palm-fringed lissenungisland.com stopping point for cruise ships beaches. You’ll often be joined by Tawali Resort where locals (many in traditional the locals. Baining Fire Set high in the jungle on dress and with face paint) sell 45 Dance a bluff overlooking the sea, 46 carvings and beads, and play beach See this spectacular dance cricket with visitors. The scenery at the Rabaul Mask Festival, every is cliched – in the best possible July. Masked young men perform it way – with blue water and palm- around a big bonfire as an initiation lined beaches. into adulthood. Port Moresby dining 47If you haven’t eaten in Port Moresby in recent times, you may be in for a surprise. The nation’s capital is rapidly coming on in development terms, with hotels and restaurants springing Live-aboard up for the 2018 APEC summit. The 50surfing legacy will be a great crop of new The PNG Explorer, a places to eat, some of which are 23-metre steel ship for 10 guests, already trading. More than 20 have cruises out of Kavieng on a variety opened in the past year, among of surf adventures from October to them Asian, Italian, Indian and May. Most charters on board the Japanese places. Ask at your hotel mid-level luxury vessel are for 10 for recommendations. nights. The company has recently purchased a second vessel, the Panasesa ultra-luxury Ultimate 1. If you’re not resort 48 surfing, there are also diving and The handful of beachfront fishing trips, and plans to expand bungalows at this Conflicts Islands into general tourism and visit resort can be booked exclusively for cultural events such as the Yam one group. There’s also a clubhouse Festival in the Trobriand Islands. and sunset beach cocktail bar, plus chef, dive and resort staff. pngsurfaris.com
32 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country Going with the breeze Grace Maribu explains the tradition behind Port Moresby’s annual Hiri Moale Festival.
cry goes up. Sails have been sighted. to lead an expedition would cultivate large Meanwhile, the village women set about A runner is dispatched to confirm the gardens to provide food for the feasts required making the pots. Women dug the clay, ferried identity of the sailing canoe, called a during the construction of the lagatoi. In April or it home, made and fired the pots. The pots A lagatoi, and after confirmation is made May, he would summon his relatives to a small came in three types – cooking, water storage, the village springs into action. feast at which he would announce his intention and bowls. Kundu drums are fetched, headdresses and enlist their support. This was given to him As for the lagatoi, its design and properties brought out, faces painted. Women, adorned soon after, in the form of additional canoe hulls, were so well thought out and built that the in traditional costume, get ready to greet the arm shells and other traditional currencies. vessel could withstand the rigours of the sea lagatoi with fanfare and celebration when it and carry the crew for weeks. reaches shore. The hull comprised dugouts, held together by In years gone by, this would have been the vines and a network of bamboo poles. A typical scene at the end of every Hiri trade voyage, Motuan seamen would lagatoi had four dugouts, although it has been customary along the shores of the Motuan reported that one had more than 25 dugouts, coastline. sail their giant canoes which made the vessel as wide as it was long. Today, the scene is played out at the Hiri north-west, several The hull became the storage area for the Moale Festival in Port Moresby. The festival cargo and was crammed with banana leaves to pays tribute to the traditional Hiri expeditions. hundred kilometres across prevent water from seeping inside. Hiri researchers say that the voyages the Gulf of Papua, to Upon the hull was placed flooring material that significantly shaped the lives of the local people became the deck. Built in the middle, were two of Port Moresby, because without them “the exchange pottery for sago. separate cabins – one for the captain, called the Motuans would not have subsisted” because baditauna, and the other for his co-pilot, known of frequent droughts in the area. as the doritauna. Between the cabins were the According to F.R Barton, who published two masts, upon which the sails were fastened. a detailed account of the Hiri in 1910, the About June, the voyager would go public. He The area between the cabins was the institution had existed for many generations, did this by leaving his house in the early morning irutahuna, the sacred place reserved only for the as it was a feature of life when the first English and sitting by a fire in the street. He stayed two expedition leaders and their errand boys. missionary settled in Port Moresby in 1874. there until he was joined by a deputy, a mast Hiri custom dictated the inclusion of young About October or November, before the south- man and sail man, and the rest of the crew. pre-pubescent boys – usually the sons or east trade winds die, Motuan seamen would Barton records the average number of crewmen nephews of the captains – on the trip to run sail their giant canoes north-west, several at 29, aged between 20 and 40. errands for the leaders. hundred kilometres across the Gulf of Papua, Construction of the vessel involved collecting The baditauna and the doritauna were the to exchange pottery made by Motuan women vines and cane, assembling and binding the hulls, spiritual leaders of the voyage, observing all for sago produced in the west. In late December and stepping the masts, which were heirlooms the spiritual protocols that governed their daily or January, the expedition would return, aided handed from father to son. routine. While the mast and sail men attended by the north-west monsoon. These tasks were supported by supplies of to the physical running of the vessel, the two Much planning would go into a voyage, food from the large gardens, cooked by the principals took care of the spiritual needs of perhaps starting a year before. A man wishing wives of the leaders. the expedition.
34 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country
Keeping up traditions ... a lagatoi (sailing canoe) at the annual Hiri Moale Festival (left); the real deal (above); the Miss Hiri contest is part of the festival (right).
Upon arrival in a Gulf village, the barter occurred according to the value system designed for Hiri. The return was always a very happy occasion. Much feasting took place and debts owed were repaid to those who took care of the families of crewmen during their absence. The Hiri flourished until 1941, when World War 2 disrupted traditional customs, although few Motuan villages tried to revive the interest after the war. But in 1958, the Australian colonial administration banned expeditions, after a returning lagatoi capsized outside of Port Moresby, killing everyone on board. Motuans say the major function of Hiri was economic. They also valued the institution for its maintenance of links with partners and neighbours. Hiri also provided the opportunity for festivities, and conferred prestige on those who participated. Today, the last surviving sailors are in their 80s and the practice of clay pot-making has died. The Hiri Moale Festival relives the tradition by having young men schooled in lagatoi- construction skills and young women groomed in womanhood according to the ways of Hiri. The festival includes a Miss Hiri contest and coincides with Papua New Guinea's independence on September 16.
July – August 2017 35 traveller OUR region
Matt Shea checks into the luxe Orpheus Island Resort in North Queensland. Home he first things you notice are instructing him how to handle the photos. They line the a boomerang. richly rendered white walls The images are fascinating. There are 28 staff at Orpheus to Tof Orpheus Island Resort, Blown up large and displayed in look after the 28 guests. black-and-white images clearly the resort’s public areas and rooms, from a different time. they convey a sense of the past, In them, a startlingly pretty young and of home. Of lived-in comfort.
woman poses against a variety This, you soon realise, is Island luxuries ... the pool bar at Orpheus Island (above); tasteful interiors of backdrops. One photo has her Orpheus’s parlour trick. From the (right). "You feel like your'e being welcomed not into a hotel, but into someone's home." high on the island, sun hat dangling moment your helicopter lands at from her hand, and Orpheus’s coral the far end of the resort’s expansive bays in the background. In another, garden, you feel like you’re being she’s posing with a couple of locals, welcomed not into a hotel, but into sitting in a giant clamshell. A third someone’s home. You don’t use has an indigenous man gently your key at Orpheus because you clutching the wrist of a young hardly need to. You don’t need to Hollywood actor, Robert Mitchum, swipe anything or tell anyone your
36 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region comforts room number because just about you never want for anything, it also straight across the garden to the first time we take stock of the everything – food, drinks, activities creates a sense of equivalency bay beyond. other guests. They’re couples – is included. Gone are all those between host and guest. It’s It’s Penegar who’ll appear again mostly. Two 20-somethings moments of friction that remind you egalitarian, friendly, familiar and, later on the beach, seemingly out have flown from Los Angeles for that you’re staying at a hotel. It’s most of all, comfortable. of nowhere, prepping us for a their honeymoon. Another pair hard to overstate how this adjusts It also means Penegar has paddle-boarding session. He helps has travelled from Texas for an your mindset. the time to sit us down in the us push off and we float out over anniversary. For a couple of Brits,
Caption here caption here and here cation captiore and caption here Caption here caption here and re cation caption here and on here Caption here caption herd here cation caption here and caption here
It’s in the service too. We lounge with a welcome drink the reef, catching the easterly this is the luxury leg of an extended wouldn’t know general manager and introduce us to chefs breeze towards the mainland, trip to Australia. Ross Penegar from the rest of Daniel Main, Aileen Aguirre and before turning to work our way In the twilight, we watch as his staff, except he’s there to Francis Dela Cruz – who check back to the beach. Orpheus’s lovely, Penegar somehow summons greet us as we touch down, our dietary requirements and lazy infinity pool and an open bar white-bellied sea eagles from grabbing our bags with a couple chat to us about that day’s await us as reward. Orpheus’s iconic Clam Gardens, of suntanned fists. menu – before showing us to Later, a gentle cruise out into while fellow general manager There are 28 staff at Orpheus to our room, an airy, understatedly Hazard Bay, with champagne and Jen Fitzmaurice explains the look after the 28 guests, Penegar luxe villa on the northern side cocktails, doubles as a welcome history of the dramatic archipelago tells us later, and while that means of the complex with views for new arrivals. It’s also the of islands that surrounds us.
July – August 2017 37 traveller OUR region Home comforts
During the last ice age, it was tip of Orpheus towards the eastern a mountain range separating the shore of nearby Curacoa Island, mainland from the sea. where an extended stretch of After dark, we freshen up before reef sits particularly close to the sitting down to a multi-course meal surface. Fitzmaurice take us into in Orpheus’s expansive pavilion, the water, the high mid-morning tables for two facing out across Queensland sun shining on the the torch-lit gardens and the sea coral below. beyond. It’s like entering another world. Chef Main and his team switch up Floating along with the gentle the menu daily. One night you might current, we dive to inspect giant have Cape Grim beef tenderloin brain corals, elephant ear sponges with horseradish foam; the next, and all sorts of bizarrely shaped pan-seared snapper with bok choy anemones. Parrot fish zip this way and black fungi. Everything is North and that, while more timid sea Queensland fresh and full of colour, creatures peek at us from inside the service precise but unobtrusive. deep crevices. We team up with Breathtaking ... snorkelling on a fringing The next morning, we have other guests, pointing out each reef at Orpheus Island a snorkelling date to attend. and every hyper-coloured creature. (right); salt and pepper Fitzmaurice and her team outfit When motioned back to the boat, squid with wasabi cream, served at the us with flippers and suits, before we hardly want to leave. pavilion where tables Orpheus’s dive boat, the Maree That same reluctance strikes in face out to sea Ann, powers us south, around the the afternoon, when we hear the (far right).
38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region Home comforts
blades of the helicopter cutting from their hammocks. We don’t through the tropical air. Our time at want to say goodbye but Penegar Orpheus is almost up. reminds us that a return visit Penegar and Fitzmaurice walk is barely more than a flight to us to the helipad, fast friends Townsville away. See you soon, among the other guests waving Orpheus.
Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Townsville twice a week. See airniugini.com.pg
NEED TO KNOW STAYING THERE Rooms start from $AUD1500 (about PGK3550) a night for two, with packages available for longer stays. The rate includes meals, wines, beers and soft drinks, a daily nature-based activity and use of Orpheus’s watercraft. Return helicopter transfers from Townsville with Nautilus Aviation cost $AUD580 (about PGK1375). MORE INFORMATION orpheus.com.au
July – August 2017 39
traveller our region Battle stations Monica McInnes explores Singapore’s remnants of war.
t took just eight days for general Arthur Percival, ignored Singapore to be changed intelligence reports and rallied forever. Eight days of punishing troops and resources to defend Ifighting and gun battles for Singapore from a southern the Allies to surrender to the sea-based attack. Only small Japanese. regiments of Australian It was February 1942. Japanese and Indian forces protected troops infiltrated Singapore from Singapore’s north. Malaya, now Malaysia, in the Fast-forward 75 years and north. It was not unexpected, but Singapore’s an independent, British commander, lieutenant- thriving metropolis with a unique PICTURE: AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL WAR AUSTRALIAN PICTURE:
42 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region
blend of ancient cultures and and the living conditions for was inaccurate and ineffective in Fort Canning modern-day conveniences. But commanders, troops and hired halting the Japanese advance. Back on the mainland, we stop at remnants of the war days remain civilian labour. The final stop on the 90-minute Fort Canning to see where Allied and are ready to be explored. The fort was equipped with gun tour provides air-conditioned commanders made the fateful Fort Siloso batteries and heavy armament, relief from the tropical heat, to decision to surrender at the Perched atop the recently built recently re-opened Battlebox. 181-metre Fort Silosos Skywalk, Built in 1936, the highly the fort has sweeping views past secretive Battlebox was a Singapore harbour’s calm waters Built in 1936, the highly secretive command centre during the to the mainland and across the Battlebox was a command centre war, but was abandoned soon after the war’s cessation and boat-laden Singapore Straits. during the war. Accessible via guided It’s easy to see why the fort’s forgotten for more than 40 years. location, on Sentosa Island, was tour only, the bomb-proof shelter is a During the Battle of Singapore, an appealing strategic position. labyrinth of corridors and 29 rooms. commanders sought refuge Today, Fort Siloso is Singapore’s nine metres inside the belly of Fort Canning with battle-critical only preserved coastal fort. It was originally built in 1878 intelligence personnel. as part of the British Empire’s but all the might and power view life-sized scenes of the Accessible via guided tour defence. were almost useless some 60 two World War 2 surrenders only, the bomb-proof shelter is Our guide recounts stories years later when Singapore was – the Allies to the Japanese a labyrinth of corridors and 29 about the fort’s tunnels, gun attacked from the north. Their on February 15, 1942, and rooms. Most feature mannequin emplacements, munitions minimal turning capabilities the Japanese to the Allies on soldiers conducting daily duties pulley systems, storage rooms, meant any barrage of bombs September 12, 1945. – deciphering and encoding
Scars of war ... Singapore's waterfront buildings on fire during hostilities in 1942 (above left); Singapore Strait from Fort Siloso (below). INNES, SINGAPORE CONSULTANTS HISTORY INNES, c PICTURES: MONICA M PICTURES: MONICA
July – August 2017 43 traveller OUR region Battle stations
War connections ... (from left) the telephone exchange room at Battlebox; Japanese aircraft wreckage at Fort Siloso; gun barrels at Fort Siloso. radio transmissions, poring over The tour culminates in a to sign an unconditional The Changi Museum details maps and intelligence reports, conference-like room where surrender of 80,000 Allied troops. Singapore’s darkest days and and sleeping while ‘off-duty’. Percival and his commanders It was the Commonwealth’s features a Changi chapel replica. Our guide explains intelligence have looks of despair. They greatest military defeat. But out of the darkness stories of gathering, sorting and have decided to surrender. The Changi Museum hope, ingenuity, and exceptional deciphering. Amid the chaos meeting took just 15 minutes Many of the Allied soldiers were bravery are revealed. The audio- and overcrowding, commanders and was despite Percival’s wish taken to Changi prison on the guide sounds in our ears, as we feared being overrun by an to make a counter-attack. eastern side of the island, and meander silently, pausing often enemy twice their number, when Later that day, Percival met later some were moved to work to read and reflect. in reality the opposite was true. with general Tomoyuki Yamashita camps in Sandakan or Thailand. We learn about courageous
44 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region Battle stations
War sites ... (from left) the underground entrance to Battlebox; the plotting room downstairs (middle); replica of an officer supervising the arrival of munitions at Fort Siloso. everyday Singaporeans, like We touch an original prison munitions store in Singapore’s invasion occurred. Today, Mary Seah, who gambled door, observe gloomy POW north-west, is Kranji War Australian, British and Indian her life by bringing food and artworks, and feel uplifted by Cemetery, the final resting troops lay together, most supplies to Changi POWs, and the notorious Changi quilts, place of 4461 casualties. It’s a plots are named, but 850 are the resourcefulness of a POW which facilitated secret peaceful spot amidst the hustle unidentified. crafting a radio disguised in messages between camps. and bustle of the city visible in Undiscerned by country or a broom. The risky broom-radio Kranji War the distance. creed, we wander the rows of allowed outside information Cemetery Opposite are glimpses of headstones paying our respects gathering and boosted POW Standing on a former World the Johore Strait – a poignant to those interred here. morale. War 2 Allied military camp and reminder of where Singapore’s For many Singaporeans the
46 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region Battle stations
senseless loss of life and the “In a strange way the war was THE KEY SITES atrocities of 75 years ago have good for Singapore – it has Fort Siloso contributed to their nation’s made us who we are and we are The fort can be seen on either a guided or self-guided tour. identity, making it more smarter for it”. Entry is free, but there is a charge for a guided tour and to enter independent and stronger. the Surrender Chambers. There are several options to access Our Fort Siloso guide agrees: Sentosa Island – gondola, MRT and monorail, bus, taxi or by foot.
Fort Canning’s Battlebox Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Singapore Wandering Fort Canning is free, but access to the Battlebox is by five times a week. See airniugini.com.pg. guided tour only. You can easily get to Fort Canning on foot from the nearby MRT and bus stops, or by taxi.
Changi Museum NEED TO KNOW Allow about 90 minutes to travel by MRT and bus to reach the GETTING AROUND If you use public transport, an MRT card is the cheapest way to travel. Taxis are quick and museum. Entry is free, but audio-guides and the 45-minute guided fares inexpensive if you want to save time getting to Kranji tours attract a small fee. War Cemetery and the Changi Chapel and Museum, which are out of the city. Kranji War Cemetery MORE INFORMATION See changimuseum.sg; Entry is free and the cemetery can be reached by an easy 10 to battlebox.com.sg; fortsiloso.com. 15-minute walk from the Kranji MRT.
July – August 2017 47 traveller OUR region Pitch perfect Belinda Jackson gets in tune with the locals, above and below the water in Tonga.
e Tongans party today, that make up the Kingdom of Tonga: it’s a voyaging canoe moored by the cafe, as the sun and there’s nothing on renowned stopping point for trans-Pacific sailors sets to the tinkle of a hundred yachts' rigging the table tomorrow,” on the so-called ‘Coconut Milk Run’ from the in the breeze. “Wa Tongan woman tells me US west coast to Australia. Skipping between Much, much later in the night, the music is all as we queue at Tongatapu’s airport. It’s 2am, the beautiful isles of Polynesia, Melanesia about bumping and grinding on the dance floor I haven’t even set foot in the country and already and Micronesia, these oceanic island hoppers at the legendary bar Tongan Bob’s, the dancers I’ve been warned that Tongans are hardened pause for a week, a month or even a full season flushed by Bob’s famed, fierce punch drink. socialites. in Vavau’s aptly named Port of Refuge “Malo,” I say to the smiling breakfast staff Looking around, I realise it’s true. harbour. Its calm waters are a favourite at the Tongan Beach Resort the next morning. You’re nobody if you’re not kissing a wintering roost for sailors, who lend an “Malo,” again when they bring me tea. “Malo,” staff member. international flavour to Vava’u’s main I say, as I wave goodbye and leap aboard the Customs officers, passport town, Neiafu. boat waiting at the jetty for me. My Tongan, controllers, baggage handlers Tapas and tacos, pizza and panini are I learn, is quite exceptional. Hello, thank you, – they’re all wrapped in warm, served up beside Tongan staples of local goodbye with the one word: surely this is the loving embraces from the fish cooked in banana leaves and ota ika, mono-linguistic tourist’s nirvana? passengers from our fish marinated in lemon juice If you are looking for five-star resorts in Tonga, plane, accompanied with coconut milk, with the your quest will be fruitless. The country rolls on by a live ukulele band. omnipresent taro and small family-run B&Bs and a handful of rustic I guess there’s a coconut appearing in resorts with beachfront fale, thatch-huts looking reason why Captain entrees, mains and out to clear blue waters. Cook called them the desserts. On Saturday mornings, people from the 61 Friendly Islands. On the deck islands of the archipelago head to the town’s Later that day, a far at Mango vegetable markets where mountains of taro smaller plane, a little Cafe, are loaded into plaited grass baskets, awaiting 18-seater, flies me 55 home to buyers. Even here, there is music, as two church minutes north to the the Port of choirs from opposing persuasions have a high- Vava’u archipelago, Refuge yacht intensity sing-off that drowns out the buzzing and the party club, sailors swap motorbikes and vans. continues. stormy stories and That love of a party extends into church. Come Vava’u is one of the admire a vaka moana, Sunday morning, the choirs are ensconced in four archipelagos a traditional Pacific their respective churches – of which there are
48 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region
Tonga time ... (clockwise from opposite page) lonely beaches and beautiful water; up close with a whale; shooting the breeze; Haniteli Fa'anunu, founder of Ene'io Botanical Garden in Vava'u, which has over 500 plant species. PICTURES: BELINDA JACKSON, TOURISM TONGA TOURISM JACKSON, BELINDA PICTURES:
Niuas many – and utility vehicles deliver whole families song, and it’s emanating to the church steps. In Neiafu’s Catholic church, from somewhere below everyone’s in their Sunday best with hats, gloves my flippers. Port and ties, and the front pews are the preserve The ocean vibrates Moresby a of the choir. The singers pour their souls into with harmony from n g melodic worship, which floats along the warm the humpback whales, t o breezes of the Tongan weekend. which also like wintering Tonga is closed on Sundays: that means no in Tonga, away from Vava’u flights, no cruise ships may land, no restaurants their chilled homelands in 0 Km 200 or bars open except in resorts catering for Antarctica. Neiafu tourists. There are no dolphin cruises, no fire- The Pacific kingdom is eating shows, and no work for money. One of their romantic getaway and Ha’apai up the most striking features of Tongan business subsequent nursery for four gro a’u 20 is the lack of it. months each year, as lovers Tongatapu Vav I find a gentle exception: the Ene’io Botanical become mothers, bringing a new Garden is open to display its rich bounty of generation of two-tonne calves into orchids, sandalwood, ferns and palms, and each the world. Sunday, its restaurant spreads a Tongan banquet The song is ancient, for foreign guests. The obligatory suckling pig – deep and almost
bright orange and glazed of eye – is surrounded mournful, and 20 by bowls of taro, shellfish, tart papaya chutneys reverberates through the NEED TO KNOW and sweet, buttery coconut cake, while coconut water and into my bones. STAYING THERE The Tongan Beach Resort in Vava’u juice and the local brew, Kingdom lager, go down It speaks of journeys, costs from PGK660 for a double room a night, a treat in the sultry afternoon. friendship, the ocean, thetongan.com. The following day, I’m submerged in the waters and life. And, like all other BEST TIME Humpback whales visit Tonga from July to of Vava’u's tiny islands, dipping into the ghostly songs in Tonga, it’s in October. Swim or watch whales, costs from PGK575, depths of its famed sea caverns. The headliners perfect pitch. whalesongtonga.com. are the dramatic, bat-lined Swallows Cave MORE INFORMATION tongaholiday.com. and Mariner’s Cave, which is entered by diving through a submerged tunnel. This time, the song is equally serene, equally beautiful. It’s whale
July – August 2017 49 traveller our region
Mark Andrews visits Ubud, where dance, Culture fix temples and good Balinese food inspire him. PICTURES: MARK ANDREWS MARK PICTURES:
o you need transport?’ reads the sign held up high by the little more than a small plaited Balinese spruiker as I leave my hotel. I shake my head and he palm-leaf box, they are filled with turns the sign around. On the back, it pleadingly reads ‘Maybe food, and they waft the ‘Dfor tomorrow?’ fragrance of incense and Meanwhile, a Balinese long-tailed macaque picks through one of frangipani flowers. today’s offerings before hurling it to the ground in a show of disapproval. Put out at regular Welcome to another morning on Ubud’s Monkey Forest Road. intervals throughout While it is easy to eat, pray, love in Bali, there are also rewards from the day to appease the exploring the island’s cultural side. And there is no better place to do this gods, they line the than from Ubud. uneven pavements It is still possible to visit Ketut Liyer – the Balinese medicine man who that are cracked and set Elizabeth Gilbert on her year-long odyssey depicted in the movie Eat broken. Pray Love – for a palm reading. However, it doesn’t take an encounter with Nights resonate a fortune teller to feel the mystical side of Bali. with the haunting sounds With 90 per cent of islanders practising Hinduism blended with animist of gamelan orchestras beliefs, offerings are an important part of daily life. Usually consisting of punctuated by the giant
50 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region
Each dish is redolent with a complexity of flavours that is missing in most restaurants. Pupsa really knows how to get the tastes of Bali to dance off the plate.
Ubud moments … the barong dance at Batubulan; a basket with red chillies at the Ubud produce market; a terraced rice field fringed by palm trees. croaks of tiny frogs on lily pads. Balinese dance has its origins in the A constant stream of temples and local story telling, but these days there are regular tourist Hindu devotees come to performances. Pura Tirta Empul (Temple Legong dances, performed by two young women to the rhythmic of Holy Waters) to make percussion of the gamelan, involve intricate hand movements and swaying offerings, followed by heads invoking the very essence of Balinese femininity. ablutions in the waters fed The barong dance is best seen in a temple setting and represents by a sacred spring – said to the triumph of good over evil. Back stage in Batubulan village, the have been created by the god performers are relaxed as they busily apply make-up. Village folklore Indra – in a pilgrimage that values balance and the dance is seen as a way of fighting black magic has been going on for more to restore equilibrium. Rangda is the evil witch of the forest and it is up than a millennium. to the barong, a lion-like creature, to thwart her scheming ways. At the At Paon Bali (Bali Kitchen), beginning of the show, he comes on to the stage with his monkey friend husband and wife team and the action is interlaced with sensuous Balinese dancers. Wayan and Puspa, invite Religion permeates the societal fabric and so it should come as no you into their home and surprise that you are never far from a temple. introduce typical Balinese
July – August 2017 51 traveller our region Culture fix
EXCLUSIVE TO BISHOPS
Socket Sets • Tool Kits and Storage • Pliers • Screwdrivers • Hex Keys & Bits • Pipe Tools Impact Sockets Automotive Tools • Torque Control • Multipliers and more!
PORT MORESBY 325 1088 MADANG 422 1344 LAE 472 3799 MT HAGEN 545 1990 [email protected] KIMBE 983 5500 KOKOPO 982 9990 www.bishopbros.com.pg
52 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region Culture fix
On the streets … family life. As for many locals, the day starts (from left) a basket at the Ubud market where Pupsa introduces filled with offerings; a seller at Ubud us to ingredients and picks up a few supplies market; a Balinese that the couple don’t grow in their kitchen artisan sculpting garden. a stone statue; chicken sate and Just before we don aprons, there is time fish being cooked to introduce how families make coconut oil, in banana leaves the cooking oil of choice. on a charcoal grill. Then it is time to get cooking. First on the list is base gede (basic yellow sauce). Pupsa explains that this is the one thing you have to get right to create good Balinese food. It consists of galangal, ginger, turmeric, chillies and various other spices. After the ingredients are finally chopped, it’s time for us to pound them into a paste in a huge black mortar. Finally, it is sauteed. Soon, it is being used in sate siap, which unlike regular Indonesian-style sate uses minced chicken, be siap mesanten (chicken in coconut curry), pepesan be pasih (steamed fish in banana leaves), and jukut urab (coconut and snake bean salad).
July – August 2017 53 traveller our region Culture fix
After a few hours of chopping, frying and steaming, we finish our food. Each dish is redolent with a complexity of flavours that is missing in most restaurants. Pupsa really knows how to get the tastes of Bali to dance off the plate.
Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Denpasar weekly. See airniuginiparadise.com.pg.
NEED TO KNOW STAYING THERE Wapa di Ume (wapadiume.com) from PGK630 a night; Komaneka (komaneka.com) from PGK765. COOKING THERE Paon Bali (paon-bali.com) cooking classes start from about PKG79. DANCE SHOWS Barong dances are held daily at 9.30am at Batubulan village. Tickets about PKG22. GETTING THERE Ubud is about an hour’s drive from the international airport at Denpasar. A taste of Bali … a dessert of boiled banana in palm sugar syrup, cooked at Paon Bali cooking school; a macaque at the Sacred Monkey Forest.
54 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
traveller our region
amous for its endless beaches and Australia’s best theme parks, there’s Factually much, much more to Australia’s Gold Coast. With a mountainous hinterland just half an hour’s drive from the famous beach strip, a fast-emerging cultural and culinary scene, and the Commonwealth Games next year, the Gold Coast is a destination that can’t be ignored. Air Niugini passengers flying into Brisbane can hire a car and be on the Gold Coast within one hour.
City guide: Gold Coast Craig Tansley explores Australia's Gold Coast, which will be in the spotlight next year when its hosts the Commonwealth Games.
GETTING AROUND SIGHTS Board games ... the Gold Coast is famous for its beaches and surfing. It’s easy to navigate the Gold Visit one of Australia’s most Coast if you hire a car (all major picturesque headlands and hire car options are available at beaches at Snapper Rocks, just Gold Coast and Brisbane airports). five minutes drive from Gold Coast The Gold Coast Highway runs International Airport – home to parallel to the beach from the pro surfing’s first event of the southern-most point of the coast year, the Quiksilver Pro (held each near the airport at Coolangatta to February or March). The wave its north (past Surfers Paradise). here – the Superbank –has been And the biggest suburbs’ streets proclaimed the world’s best are named the American way – point break. First Avenue, Second Avenue and While the Gold Coast is so on – which makes navigation moving away from relying on simple. You can also take a bus its reputation as Australia’s with Surfside Buslines (surfside. theme park capital, it’s hard to com.au), which services the entire not be impressed by Sea World Gold Coast. (Seaworld Drive, Main Beach,
56 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Gold Coast
Coasting ... (from left) Justin Lane at Burleigh Heads; by the seaside; Miami Marketta; heading into the hinterland.
seaworld.com.au). Built GOLD COAST SPECIAL CULTURE VULTURE The hippest street designers right beside the Gold Coast If you’re after good old-fashioned Listen to the best local music share their wares at the Gold Broadwater, it’s Australia’s value in the most mind-blowing and check out design vendors Coast’s original boutique premier (and original) marine locations on the Gold Coast, then while eating from food trucks at fashion and lifestyle markets, mammal and theme park. go find a surf club or RSL club. the Gold Coast’s best cultural the Village Markets (1750 Gold While the Gold Coast’s beaches The Gold Coast is famous for additions – markettas that have Coast Highway, Burleigh Heads, attract the lion’s share of plaudits, its huge offering of clubs built opened up at the Gold Coast’s thevillagemarkets.com) on the there’s 480 kilometres of rivers just a few metres from the best least likely destinations. The first and third Sunday morning and streams and 774 hectares beaches. All you have to do is best two are Miami Marketta of each month. of lakes, dams and canals to sign your name at the door, (23 Hillcrest Parade, Miami, Find the Coast’s hippest stores, explore just west of the beaches, and you’ll go back in time to an miamimarketta.com) built near an bars, cafes and bookshops on its including the stunning Gold era of friendly locals and cheap industrial estate and Nightquarter hippest street – Burleigh Heads’ Coast Broadwater – a mecca beer and food. (1 Town Centre Drive, Helensvale, James Street, just a 200-metre for boaties, paddle boarders, nightquarter.com.au) built walk from Burleigh Point. jet skiers and kayakers. behind a shopping centre in unfashionable Helensvale.
58 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Gold Coast
Retail therapy ... (from left) there are 350 shops at Robina; local wildlife at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary; catching a wave; QT Hotel; drinks at Justin Lane.
CHILD’S PLAY and dining destination. There are year, attracting 6600 athletes and Find inner peace in the hills The Gold Coast is every kid’s more than 400 specialty shops officials from 70 nations, with just behind the southern Gold fantasy destination with its world- here. And just a little further 690, 000 visitors expected to Coast at the Gwinganna Lifestyle famous theme parks –including south, Robina Town Centre (19 attend. Retreat (192 Syndicate Road, Dreamworld (Dreamworld Robina Town Centre Road, Robina, There will be 275 events, Tallebudgera, gwinganna.com). Parkway, Coomera, dreamworld. robinatowncentre.com.au) has with – the opening and closing Choose from two to seven- com.au), Movie World (Pacific over 350 shops. ceremonies at Metricon Stadium day wellness programs while Motorway, Oxenford, movieworld. in Carrarra. Events will be held surrounded by wallabies and com.au) and Wet’n’Wild (Pacific SPORTING LIFE between Coolangatta and koalas. Motorway, Oxenford, wetnwild. The Gold Coast is home to some Broadwater Parklands. Tickets com.au). of the world’s best surf – and cost from $20, and can be PILLOW TALK Hire bicycles and safely cycle there’s learn-to-surf schools at requested at gc2018.com/tickets. Invoking the coolness of Baja beside the beach on bikeways every single beach. Learn to The Supercars (supercars. California, Australian hotels don’t that run the length of the Gold surf with former world surfing com/gold-coast) annually hit the get any hipper than QT Gold Coast Coast from Coolangatta to Surfers champion, Cheyne Horan streets of Surfers Paradise – (7 Staghorn Avenue, Surfers Paradise. (cheynehoran.com.au). reaching speeds of up to 265kmh Paradise, qthotelsandresorts.com/ Get close to native birds, koalas, There are 25 golf courses – in one of Australia’s most gold-coast/). crocs and other Aussie animals on the Gold Coast – all within exciting car races, the Gold Coast You can’t get better views of at the 70-year-old heritage-listed a 50-minute drive – including 600. It will be held this year from the entire Gold Coast strip than Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary some of Australia’s best October 20 to 22. in Australia’s tallest residential (28 Tomewin Street, Currumbin, public-access courses. For tower – Q1 Resort & Spa (9 cws.org.au). a five-star experience, head ESCAPE Hamilton Avenue, Surfers to Sanctuary Cove Golf Club Escape the hustle and bustle of Paradise, q1.com.au). RETAIL THERAPY (The Parkway, Hope Island, the Gold Coast strip by driving Go where the beautiful people If shopping’s your thing, the Gold sanctuarycovegolfclub.com.au) 45 minutes to Binna Burra Lodge stay – to one of the world’s first Coast is your destination because or, for a more laid-back hit, try the (Binna Burra Road, Beechmont, fashion-inspired hotels, Palazzo this is the home of the super mall. Boomerang Farm (55 Johns Road, binnaburralodge.com.au). Choose Versace (94 Seaworld Drive, And nothing’s more super than Mudgeeraba, boomerangfarm. from short strolls to day-long palazzoversace.com.au), with Pacific Fair (Hooker Boulevard, com.au). hikes along steep escarpments opulent Italian furnishings and Broadbeach, pacificfair.com.au) The Commonwealth Games will with stunning views back over a day spa that’ll redefine your idea – Queensland’s largest shopping be held from April 4 to 15 next the coast. of pampering.
60 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Gold Coast
Justin Lane (1708 Gold Coast Highway, Burleigh Heads, justinlane.com.au). Justin Lane attracts the Coast’s coolest crowd with a rooftop overlooking the world-famous waves at Burleigh Point. That you will find Balter Brewing (14 Traders Way, Currumbin, balter.com.au) in an industrial estate says a lot about how much the Gold Coast has evolved. Run by four famous pro surfers, the who’s-who of world surfing congregate between boat building sheds and car detailing factories.
WATERING HOLES more intimate than The Loose like a Prohibition-era speakeasy Once famous for big-capacity Moose (Oasis Shopping Centre, with a choice of 130 whiskeys. clubs, now Gold Coast bars have 75 Surf Centre, Broadbeach, Nowhere epitomises the become intimate. And nowhere’s theloosemoose.com.au), styled evolving Gold Coast more than
July – August 2017 61 traveller our region City guide: Gold Coast
gold coast Population: 570,000
Currency: Australian dollar (AUD); 1 dollar = PGK2.4
Taxi fare from airport: To Surfers Paradise, about $AUD70, to Burleigh Heads, about $AUD25, to Coolangatta, about $AUD12.
International TUCK IN dialling code: Nothing screams G-O-L-D C-O- +61 EATS A-S-T louder than tucking into a The hottest new eating (1916 Gold Coast Highway, kilo of cooked local king prawns Language: spot on the Coast is also greenhousefactory.com. from the Gold Coast Fisherman’s English its most innovative – The au) works on the concept – Co-operative (168 Seaworld Drive, Power: Collective (1128 Gold Coast ‘anything we can do, we can Main Beach, freshestcatch.com. A three-hole outlet, Highway, Palm Beach, do vegan’. au). Locals line up to buy the the same as PNG. thecollectivepalmbeach. With one of the Gold Coast’s freshest prawns in Queensland, com.au) is a collection of five best settings, Rick Shores caught just offshore by fleets restaurants and two bars in a (Shop 4, 43 Goodwin Terrace, of local trawlers, Eat them just stylish outdoor setting. Burleigh Heads, rickshores. across the road in the park. It’s worth noting one of com.au) is worth booking for the trendiest restaurants on the views alone. But the food’s the Gold Coast is vegan. The actually the real star here – Greenhouse Canteen & Bar discover the best Asian fusion Dishing it up ... The Collective is meals in Queensland. the Gold Coast's hottest new eating spot (above left); a platter of the finest at Palazzo Versace (above).
AFTER... PACIFIC ARCHITECTS PNG LIMITED
SPECIALISED IN ● HIGH RISE BUILDINGS SIR MANASUPE HAUS ● MAJOR RENOVATIONS “PINEAPPLE BUILDING” ● INTERIOR DESIGN PAC ARCHITECTS PROJECT COST K86 MILLION ● LARGE SUBDIVISIONS ● REMOTE LOCATION EXPERTISE ● PROJECT MANAGEMENT ARCHITECTURAL
EXCELLENCE BEFORE... PH +675 321 4499| EM [email protected]
62 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
traveller our country
S & WATE ER RF V A I L R L S D L I out W there
LE B IL OUGAiNV
Green belt ... the rainforest near Sisivi village (above); Togarao Waterfall (inset).
n the back of a dusty blue sleeping sacks, with my torch. Bats leap from the bank, we’re out onto Land Cruiser with a cracked frogs and crickets narrowly miss our the enormous boulders that span Buka
B windscreen, we speed our way provide a calming o Arawa heads and red the river and create the brink of ug an towards the mountainous region soundtrack. vil crabs hurry from the 70-metre-high fall. Tentatively I PNG le of Rotokas in central Bougainville. Day two, and our feet. As I delve shuffling as close to the edge of Port Moresby As we reach the end of the road we’re off for a deeper into the the boulders as we dare, we peer PICTURES: ASHLEE GROSS ASHLEE PICTURES: for the vehicle, it’s time for three six-hour walk (return) cave, it becomes over the drop-off. days of hiking through rainforest to the Ukoto Caves. We more confined and I feel Back at Togarao, we relax as and crossing rivers that not many, pick up an entourage of men, less at ease, and decide to night falls. Our guide pops his head beyond locals, get to see. women, children and dogs from head back to the rainforest. around the door and asks “would Steadily making our way up to neighbouring hamlets. After a short We loop back towards Sisivi, and you like to see Mount Bagana 700 metres altitude, the occasional distance, we plunge into the first after three hours we are rewarded erupting”? In the pitch dark we break in rainforest provides views of many rivers that we’ll wade with a swim at Rauvereaka Falls, watch a red glow appear in the across the craggy Crown Prince through and rock-hop along for a lush, forest-covered waterfall sky – lava at the top of Bagana’s and Emperor ranges, as our guide, most of the day – this isn’t a walk that feeds a deep inviting pool. volcanic cone. We stand transfixed, Luke, from Rotokas Ecotourism, for dry feet. Feeling invigorated, we amble back squinting into the distance as leads us two hours up a local After three hours, our guide to the village. the red morphs, disappears and footpath to Sisivi, where we’ll points straight up a vertical rock But the most impressive waterfall reappears, time and time again. spend two-nights in a village-style wall and says we’ve made it to is still to come, on day three. The Sisivi village stay can be house, before walking onto Togarao the caves. He effortlessly starts After an easy three-hour walk, booked with Rotokas Ecotourism for a third and final night. to climb, and I attempt to imitate we’re welcomed to the village of (rotokas.ecotourism@gmail. After a friendly welcome in Sisivi, his movements, albeit with far Togarao, and soon taken to the com). A three-night stay, including we watch the sun disappear behind less elegance, clutching for vines nearby waterfall. Standing at the transport to/from Buka or Arawa, the dominant volcano, Mount Balbi, and roots with a slight air of base, thick green moss coats the accommodation, tour guide, and known locally as Tutie, and then desperation. cliffs and impenetrable thickets of meals starts at PGK330 a person, head off with our torches to find About four metres up, a cave ferns surround the river, as torrents depending on group size. a shower, courtesy of a bamboo mouth comes into sight. We’ve of water crash into it. But the real —ADAM CONSTANZA cane that cleverly redirects water made it! But no, there’s a second experience is standing at the top. from a creek. Back at the house, a cave higher up, we’re told, as our We re-approach the river from Air Niugini flies from dinner of chicken, kaukau, banana guide motions to continue climbing. higher ground and crawl along the Port Moresby to Buka and rice awaits; then, not long Pulling myself over the brow of riverbank, clinging to bushes and six times a week and after we’re bedded down in our the rock, I shuffle into the dark fallen trees for balance. With a once a week to Arawa. See airniugini.com.pg.
64 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI
Three of a kind … museums
NATIONAL MUSEUM & ART EDO-TOKYO MUSEUM, TOKYO, MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND, GALLERY, PORT MORESBY, PNG JAPAN TE PAPA, TONGAREWA, Remodelled for Papua New Guinea’s 40th This cavernous museum dives into the city’s WELLINGTON, NZ anniversary of independence in 2015, 300-year transformation from Edo (Tokyo’s Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum, the museum is a portal into the country’s original name) feudal city, to vibrant modern is possibly the most hands-on way to learn rich natural and cultural heritage. It tells capital. Get a fascinating insight into the about the country’s history. Inside you’ll find multi-layered stories about the indigenous way Japanese people used to live from the an incredible collection of Maori artifacts, culture, covering geography, fauna, culture, city models (some full-size, some miniature Pacific and NZ history galleries, the national ethnography and history. As you wander with intricate mini people and buildings), art collection, as well as themed hands-on through the four exhibitions, you’ll discover reproductions of ancient maps and woodblock ‘discovery centres’ for children, spread over six tribal artifacts from all across the islands, prints. There are volunteer English-speaking floors. There’s also a real 495-kilogram colossal including headgear with bird-of-paradise guides, and you’ll need at least two hours to squid in a six-metre tank in the Mountains feathers, masks and other body adornments, see all six floors. to Sea exhibit. tools, weapons, kina shell money, ceremonial SOMETHING SPECIAL drums and canoes. SOMETHING SPECIAL The life-sized partial replica of the original 1872 Bush City is a lush, sprawling garden by the SOMETHING SPECIAL Nihonbashi bridge, which marked the centre of harbour, with boardwalks and a swing bridge There’s a collection of recovered World War the flourishing Nihonbashi commercial district where you can get a taste of NZ’s native 2 aircraft on the entrance lawn, including in the Edo period is remarkable. Standing on bush and wetlands. You can also explore the 90-year-old Ford Trimotor 5AT-C ‘Kokoda the bridge, visitors can look down on life-size a stalactite-draped glow-worm cave, dig for Spirit’, Originally an air ambulance that whisked models of tenement row houses, a kabuki fossils and climb a lava flow. wounded Australian soldiers off the Kokoda theatre and more. Trail, it’s especially pertinent to see this year DON’T MISS DON’T MISS for Kokoda’s 75th anniversary. The ‘Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War’ exhibition On Saturdays there are often free traditional (open until 2018) explores NZ’s role in the DON’T MISS cultural programs, including traditional World War 1 Gallipoli campaign via the The stunning carved totem poles, used to Japanese music concerts. But you’d better experiences of eight New Zealanders. The decorate spirit houses in the Sepik region, in hurry: the museum will be closed for hyper-real models, made by celebrated special the Masterpiece Exhibition. renovation from October 2017 to March 2018. effects company Weta Workshop, makes it ENTRY & HOURS ENTRY & HOURS feel fascinatingly real. By donation. Open 8.30am–3.30pm Monday– 600 yen (PGK17). Open daily 9.30am–5.30pm, ENTRY & HOURS Friday; 1–3pm Sunday. Closed Saturday. except Mondays. Free. Special tours extra. Open 10am–6pm, WEBSITE WEBSITE seven days. museumpng.gov.pg edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/en WEBSITE tepapa.govt.nz
66 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our country
REVIEW: HOTEL MOROBE, LAE hotelmorobe.com, +675 4790100
WHO STAYS? PNG government officials and expatriate businessmen are frequent guests. HOW BIG? 38 keys. COST Superior: PGK399, executive: PGK499, deluxe suite: 599. Price includes breakfast and Wi-Fi. CHECK IN and out 3pm/midday NEARBY Lae Toptown supermarkets, banks, police and petrol stations. Eriku supermarkets and department stores. Lae War Cemetery and Lae Botanic Garden. Wi-Fi in rooms/public areas: Fee for Wi-Fi: TV: LOCATION a building at Morobe Hotel that will include Hotel Morobe is in Lae, the second-largest city two restaurants when it opens later this year. Air conditioning in room: in Papua New Guinea. It is a 10-minute walk Room service is available. Ceiling fan in room: from the CBD (Toptown). Highlights Business centre: THE PLACE The hotel prides itself on its ‘rough luxe’ ambience. Guests are treated to a feast of Gym: The three-storey hotel was completed in 2014 and is the newest boutique hotel in Morobe. colour, starting in the coral-pink lobby and the Room service: It has 38 rooms in various configurations: hallways, which feature vibrant and engaging Swimming pool: 24 are superior rooms, six are executive, and animal art prints. “We have layered multiple eight are deluxe suites. A breakfast lounge styles and textures together to create a Airport transfers*: accommodates up to 20 people. A shuttle hospitable environment for our travel-worn Hotel arranges tours: service is provided for guests wishing to dine guests,” the hotel says. “While spontaneous at The City Cafe, in the restaurant of the and extroverted in its public spaces, we lower Breakfast included in room charge: sister hotel, Lae City Hotel. Laundry service the color volume in the private quarters, *At guest expense and room service are also available. There’s offering rooms that shimmer softly in intimate 24-hour security. Oriental tones, deep comfort, and charm.” WHAT GUESTS LIKE The ‘rough luxe’ comes in the form of a hand-
My first visit to this hotel and everything in the ROOMS distressed wooden reception counter, rustic Tea and coffee-making facilities and was very good. Helpful staff, a nice room Provencal-style chandelier, Asian-inspired complimentary bottled water are provided. and a secure, central location. The cafe blue-and-white porcelain lamp bases in the A mini fridge, flat-screen cable TV with 60 is being upgraded which will be a further main lobby and weathered wood benches and channels, safe deposit box, shower room, improvement. – TripAdvisor countertops in the breakfast lounge. and free Wi-Fi are also among the amenities. The superior room I had was nice and clean Superior and executive rooms have one queen- —GRACE MARIBU with the most comfortable bed. For those who sized bed, while the deluxe suites have two have not been to Lae before, please note there queen-sized beds and separate living room. Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby is no taxi. For safety, either drive or travel to Lae four times daily. by security service (Guard Dog Security). FOOD AND DRINKs See airniugini.com.pg. The hotel staff will arrange. – TripAdvisor The hotel is currently using Lae City Hotel’s restaurant. Construction is under way on
68 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller TIME TRAVELLER
time traveller
Madang, 1968
This photo shows tribesmen in the Mount Hagen branch of the Bank of New South Wales. At the time, before electronic banking, people often travelled great distances to visit their bank branch. The Bank of New South Wales was Australia’s first bank, starting in 1817, and it opened for business in Papua New Guinea in 1910. Now known as Westpac, it has 17 branches across the country (including Madang), 58 ATMs and 2200 point-of-sale terminals. Westpac shares the banking landscape in PNG with other major financial institutions, including ANZ, Kina and BSP. If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email paradise@ businessadvantageinternational.com.
70 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
Living lifestyle, culture, sport, entertainment
Firepower ... Australian soldiers with captured Japanese weapons. PICTURES: AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL, PETER WILLIAMS PETER MEMORIAL, WAR AUSTRALIAN PICTURES:
KOKODA REMEMBERED On the 75th anniversary of the Kokoda Campaign, Dr Peter Williams re-tells the story of one of the most famous conflicts of World War 2.
lying out of Port Moresby to a plain, which runs to the north hands to climb up a steep ridge, the north or east, you’ll cross coast at Buna. One of these tracks then make an ever so careful the Owen Stanley Range, is named after a village that it descent down the other side to a Fa spine of green, jungled passes through – Kokoda. roaring, rocky stream, crossing it mountains and ridges splitting For the average middle-aged on a log. Repeat four times with the south-eastern tail of Papua person, such as myself, it’s a a rate of progress of one kilometre New Guinea in two. Several 10-day walk from Port Moresby per hour and that’s an average day KOKODA TRAIL tracks wind between 3000-metre to Kokoda. ‘Walk’ is probably not on the trail. peaks from the southern coast to the right word, as you’ll need your
72 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living history
Each man fired eight or nine times, then Major Watson told us to run for our lives. We did.
KOKODA TRAIL
July – August 2017 73 living history Kokoda remembered
In 1942, during World War 2, a Down there somewhere still is a harbour, docks, airfields, storage Port Moresby if they were to Japanese army advanced along Masanoru Honda, a carpenter sheds for supplies and a reliable advance northwards through the Kokoda Trail, intending to from the Japanese island of source of fresh water. the islands. Similarly, even if the capture Port Moresby. They were Shikoku, and Des Smith, a Much of this did not exist when Japanese did not intend to invade opposed, held, then driven back bus driver from Deniliquin in the Australians first arrived in the east coast of Australia, by Australians and Papuans. Australia. Port Moresby early in 1941, holding Port Moresby allowed Look down and spare a but within a year the town was them to threaten to do so one thought for over 2000 men Why Port Moresby? transformed into the only site day. Without Port Moresby who died in those battles in the Armies need a base from which in mainland PNG capable of the Japanese threat to invade Owen Stanleys. Many of their to launch and sustain military supporting a large army. It was Australia was a hollow one. bodies have never been found. operations. The base should have vital for the Australians to hold
74 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living history Kokoda remembered
At the ready ... Papuan carriers at Kokoda receiving their instructions from Australian officers (opposite page); fuzzy wuzzy angels carrying a wounded Australian across Brown River (left).
Why did the experienced units that had Japanese approach returned from fighting the Italians Port Moresby and Germans in Africa. along the Kokoda The Papuans carried the supplies Trail? without which the Australians At the battle of the Coral Sea in could not fight and survive in the May 1942, a Japanese attempt to mountains, and a small number capture Port Moresby by sea failed. fought as infantry; the Americans By July, a repeat of the seaward flew the majority of the aircraft. option was rejected as hundreds American infantry arrived towards of Australian and American aircraft the end of the campaign. now operating from bases in Far Most of the South Seas Force North Queensland could bomb came from the Japanese island of Japanese ships rounding the Shikoku. One of them, Sadashige eastern tip of New Guinea heading Imanishi, told me: “I thought, being for Port Moresby. Instead, the from the village of Motoyama in Japanese decided to land on the the highlands of Shikoku, that I north coast at Buna and attack Port knew all about mountains, but I Moresby from there, by land along had never seen anything as rugged the Kokoda Trail. or forbidding as the Owen Stanley Range.” Who fought in the Aiding the Japanese were Kokoda Campaign? Papuan scouts as well as labourers Australians, Papuans and and supply carriers from Taiwan Americans fought on the Allied and Korea, both then under side. The vast majority were Japanese rule. Australian infantry, some poorly trained militia, and some from
July – August 2017 75 living history Kokoda remembered
The Japanese Daera Ganiga said: “Each man fired advance eight or nine times, then major On July, 22, 1942 a Japanese Watson told us to run for our lives. battalion of the 144th Infantry We did.” Regiment, 500 men, landed at If they stood and fought for long, Buna, 130 kilometres north-east of the small Australian and Papuan Port Moresby. The first opponents force would be surrounded and the Japanese encountered were annihilated, so a policy of delay Australians Tom Grahamslaw and was adopted – shoot and scoot. John Chalk, of the Papuan Infantry At, Wairopi, Gorari and Oivi, this Battalion (PIB). was repeated, but at Oivi it nearly The Japanese came to the front didn’t work. They would have been door of Sangara Mission, where surrounded but for corporal Sanopa the two officers were having of the Royal Papuan Constabulary. breakfast. Grahamslaw and Chalk Sanopa found an unguarded track fled out the back door, so this and led the force to safety. cannot truly be considered the The first serious attempt to first military action of the Kokoda halt the Japanese was made at campaign. Kokoda. It failed and the Australian That happened the following day commander, colonel William Owen, at Awala, where 38 men of the was killed. PIB fired on the Japanese. Private Shoulder to shoulder ... an Australian soldier receives assistance during the 100-kilometre trek back to Port Moresby.
76 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living history Kokoda remembered
Then, a battalion-sized Australian force. Now, however, the two force arrived from Port Moresby. forces were assembled on both They briefly recaptured Kokoda sides of a steep gorge leading into on August 8, but were unable to the Owen Stanleys, nine kilometres maintain their hold on the village. south of Kokoda, near a village At Deniki, on the northern slopes called Isurava. of the Owen Stanley Range, the The battle began on August 27 Australians were defeated again and continued for four days. The and driven back. Japanese artillery, eight light guns, By the end of August, the main decided the outcome. Potts, with bodies of both armies were no artillery, was unable to deal approaching one another. A with the Japanese bombardment; veteran Australian brigade, brought he fell back to Eora Creek on from Queensland, formed the core August 31. of a 2300-strong force with which By now, the extraction of the brigadier Arnold Potts was ordered Australian wounded and sick along to halt the Japanese drive on the trail was a serious problem. Port Moresby. The care shown to these men by His opponent, general Tomitaro the Papuans who carried them on Horii, had been frustrated by Allied stretchers over the mountains saw air attacks on his shipping, which the Papuans dubbed the ‘fuzzy delayed the arrival of his main wuzzy angels’. Taking a breather ... exhausted Australian infantry after the battle of Gorari.
Adventure Park ParaMAG 120x185mm.indd 1 22/03/2017 8:57 am 78 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living history Kokoda remembered
Falling back slowly, the told Eather: “There won’t be any Australians fought rear-guard withdrawal from the Imita position, actions at Eora and Templeton’s Ken. You’ll die there if necessary.” Crossing. General Douglas But, instead of attacking, the MacArthur, commander of the Japanese dug in on Ioribaiwa Ridge. Allied forces, continued to reinforce the Kokoda front and ordered Why did the Potts to try once again to halt the Japanese halt? Japanese advance. On August 9, 1942, the day after On September 8 at Efogi (Brigade the Australians had briefly retaken Hill), Potts was defeated. The Kokoda, US Marines captured a Japanese pinned his force by a Japanese airfield on Guadalcanal frontal attack while sending a in the Solomon Islands, 900 battalion of infantry to cut the trail kilometres from the eastern tip
Extraction of the Australian wounded and sick was a serious problem. The care shown to these men by the Papuans who carried them on stretchers over the mountains saw the Papuans dubbed the ‘fuzzy wuzzy angels’.
in the Australian rear. Once again, of PNG at Milne Bay. This came as the Japanese artillery played a key a great surprise to the Japanese, role. The Australians were driven disrupting their plan to capture from their position in one day with Port Moresby. heavy loss. The first Japanese attempts to The final battle of the Japanese recapture their Guadalcanal airfield advance took place at Ioribaiwa. failed. Then a Japanese landing Potts was replaced after Efogi by at Milne Bay, in early September, brigadier Ken Eather, who planned was repulsed by Australian infantry something more than a defensive and the Royal Australian Air Force. stand. He had his own 2000 fresh It was the first time during World veterans of 25th Brigade, together War 2 that a Japanese amphibious with 1000 survivors of the retreat landing had been comprehensively from Kokoda. As the Japanese defeated. approached, Eather intended to The Japanese realised that they counter-attack. hadn’t the resources to continue But from September 14 to 16 the the advance on Port Moresby as Australians, as yet unable to match well as to recover Guadalcanal. the Japanese in jungle fighting, saw The South Seas Force on the their plan unravel. Eather ordered Kokoda Trail was ordered to stop a retreat. The Australians fell back and dig in at Ioribaiwa Ridge, while to Imita Ridge, only 40 kilometres fresh troops from Rabaul attempted from Port Moresby. Eather’s to retake Guadalcanal. In good hands ... a Papuan shading a wounded Australian soldier from superior, general Arthur Allen, the Kokoda sun.
80 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living history Kokoda remembered
Now and then ... modern trekkers crossing a creek on a log bridge on the Kokoda Trail; general Tomitaro Horii (front left) with his men.
The Australian The battle of Realising a prolonged effort was the rest were Australians, counter-attack Buna-Gona required, the Allies brought up Americans and Papuans. On September 27, the Australian MacArthur planned a two-pronged artillery and tanks by air and sea. The six-month Japanese invasion counter-offensive began when move: the Australian 7th Division, Additional bomber squadrons were of Papua was over. Australia no 4600 men assaulted Ioribaiwa victors at Oivi, advanced east deployed to Port Moresby. longer needed to fear an invasion Ridge – to find that the Japanese from Kokoda along the Kokoda- When the Australians captured and the Allies could now turn their had retreated the previous night. Sanananda Trail. At the same time Gona on December 9, the attention to recovering the rest of The Japanese had pulled back the United States 32nd Division, Japanese supply line – now New Guinea. 30 kilometres along the Kokoda now deemed sufficiently well reduced to small ships landing Now, few who remember the Trail to a stronger position. trained for battle, struck north- supplies at night along the coast campaign remain. For Des Moran From October 13, the Australians west from Milne Bay along the north of Gona – was cut. The of Yeppoon: “It was the greatest battered their way through coast towards Buna. However, Japanese began to run out of disaster and tragedy of my life.” continuous bunkers and trenches the opportunity MacArthur saw to food and medical supplies. Yukiko Tsukamoto, wife of a from Templeton’s Crossing to Eora capture Buna quickly did not exist. At the end of December 1942, Japanese survivor, told me: “My Creek. Australian losses were Since July, the Japanese had Australian infantry and tanks husband is still frightened by the heavy and progress slow, but constructed an elaborate fortress reinforced the US 32nd Division, sound of thunder. It makes him after two weeks the Japanese, of coconut tree log and concrete breaking the deadlock in the south remember the enemy and the conceding defeat, retreated from bunkers and trenches, which at Buna village, which fell on artillery. He still wakes me up the Owen Stanley Range and fell stretched for eight kilometres January 2, 1943. The Japanese at night.” back to Oivi, 10 kilometres east of along the coast from Gona to could see the writing on the wall Kokoda village on the trail across Buna. Recent reinforcements and ordered a breakout from the Peter Williams is a military the plains leading to Buna. from Rabaul also brought the Buna perimeter. Abandoning their historian in Canberra, In early November, the garrison’s strength up to 11,000, weapons and equipment, 3000 of Australia. He has visited Australians, having learned many half the number of the Allies who them escaped through the jungle. the battlefields in PNG, lessons from their reverses, opposed them. By the end of January 1943, all interviewed Australian, outmanoeuvred and soundly From November 19, repeated organised Japanese resistance in Papuan and Japanese defeated the South Seas Force Allied infantry assaults, without Papua had ceased. veterans and researched at Oivi. To general MacArthur the artillery support, found the Buna in all three countries. He has way to Buna seemed open. A nut impossible to crack. Neither After the battle written books, websites and rapid advance might capture the the veteran but tired Australians From July 1942 to January 1943, articles on World War 2 in Japanese base and end the enemy who had fought their way along 17,000 lives were lost in the PNG. His books include invasion of Papua at a stroke. the Kokoda Trail, nor the fresh but fighting along the Kokoda Trail, The Kokoda Campaign 1942: inexperienced Americans, could at Milne Bay, and at Buna. Myth and Reality, and Kokoda make any headway. Almost 13,000 were Japanese; for Dummies.
82 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living food
Some like it hot If I can get something that’s really good, really out of the box, that’s what I’ll put in my (spice) range.
t’s no wonder Ian Hemphill Author of The Spice and Herb Bible, TV has a nose for a good presenter and Sydney Morning Herald Food Hall spice. Australia’s foremost of Fame winner, Hemphill is following in the Ispice merchant grew up footsteps of his parents, herb pioneers John and on a herb farm and has Rosemary Hemphill, of Somerset Cottage, who been refining his sense of commercially introduced herbs and spices to smell since he was a child. Australia in the 1950s. After 45 years in business, After working for 10 years in the corporate the spice expert is very fussy world, Hemphill set up Herbie’s Spices with his about the ingredients that he wife, Liz, in 1997. The family business expanded, adds to his well-known Herbie’s with daughter and chef Kate recently joining Spices range. them to work on recipes. On a recent visit to Papua New Guinea, Hemphill had a shop in Sydney for 20 years he was so impressed by local spices that he but now concentrates on running his factory decided to immediately stock three of them: on the NSW Central Coast and an online store, hot birdseye chilli powder, green chilli powder which stocks more than 100 spices from around and Sogeri wild hot ginger. the world. “If I can get something that’s really good, He travelled to PNG for the first time last really out of the box, that’s what I’ll put in my November as an advisory consultant to Paradise range,” Hemphill says. “It’s definitely the flavour Spices in Port Moresby. He was impressed by and the quality that make these spices so the company’s processing techniques and he good.” visited the Rigo District to talk to chilli farmers.
Ian Hemphill ... impressed by the flavour and quality of PNG spices.
84 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living food
Spice guru Ian Hemphill discovers some unusual chillies in PNG, Some like it hot writes Mary O’Brien.
The farming methods are a cross between farmers in Sogeri was fabulous,” Hemphill says. wild gathering and ordered cultivation, he says. “The farmers do everything by hand. They’re not Instead of ordered rows, the plants self-seed using any chemicals because they can’t afford and grow in a haphazard way. The farmers them. They could be certified organic but clear areas between the plants and then the cost of getting certification would harvest the chilli. be ridiculous.” The birdseye chilli is very hot, with a beautiful The Sogeri ginger is unique to the flavour profile. It is a bright orange-red colour area and has a beautiful aroma. Most with rich caramel notes and scores a 10 out of gingers are sweet but this hot one 10 on the heat-level gauge. is ideal for curries and Asian dishes, “A light sprinkle on my breakfast eggs sets Hemphill says. me up for the day,” Hemphill says. He was also excited to discover green chilli powder in PNG, as it’s difficult to source. Most of the world’s chillies are harvested when ripe (red). This has a fresh green flavour profile without the high sugar levels of red chilli. Paradise Spices slice the fresh green chillies and place them in a dehydrator to dry them under controlled conditions. “Going to see the
July – August 2017 85 living food Some like it hot
“I’ve found that a quarter teaspoon in a cup of Australia since January and the response is boiling water with honey makes a lovely head- already very good. Herbies Spices are stocked clearing drink.” in 400 specialty shops around Australia and The spice merchant says the mix of used by top Australian chefs including soil, farming methods and processing Neil Perry, Tetsuya Wakuda and Peter techniques all contribute to a quality Gilmore. spice. “The post-harvesting handling Home cooks need to develop a and processing are absolutely critical,” spice memory, Hemphill says. “When he says. you’re cooking, smell your spices every He says Paradise Spices has sophisticated time you use them. If you sniff them you methods of quality control, processing and will recognise whether they are as fresh as managing allergens. Because it is producing they should be and you will develop a better things on a small scale, the spices are really understanding of how to use the spices.” fresh. Home grown ... PNG ginger, perfect for curries The PNG spices have been available in and Asian dishes.
spice notes hot birdseye CHILLI POWDER Green chilli powder Sogeri ginger powder Use in Indian and Asian curries, stir fries, Use in Mexican, Thai and other South- Use in Asian dishes, Indian curries and chilli con carne and spiced pasta dishes. East Asian dishes, such as stir fries, beverages for a tingling, hot ginger green curries and hot and sour soups. taste.
86 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living culture
Shelling out Meghan Blackstock reports on the making of a shell money wheel that is now displayed Melanesian masterpiece ... National Gallery of Australia at the National Gallery curator Crispin Howarth with the money wheel. of Australia.
arlier this year, a Melanesian Aldridge says a highlight of the masterpiece was unveiled at the documentary is this dawn Kinavai National Gallery of Australia (NGA) in ceremony. It is held annually by the Tolai to ECanberra. It is a tutana shell money wheel honour their ancestors. from the Tolai people of East New Britain Province. He went on to say: “After the Kinavai the crowd gathers This tutana was created when Richard Aldridge, an expert so that the tumbuwan owners can be paid. We brought out in tribal art, directed and produced a documentary, Tutana the tutana and stripped the outer layers so that it could be – Creation of a Tolai Money Wheel. The documentary was distributed to them as thanks for their support during the made in collaboration with Tolai chief, Vin ‘Tata’ Lote. The tutana is making of the film”. Aldridge says: “When you can see an artwork with a an appealing Afterwards, Vaniara restored the tutana to its original size short film, documenting its creation and purpose, that for display at the NGA. artwork has the ability to lead to a greater understanding object that is between cultures”. all the more A tutana, in Tolai culture, is a money wheel that contains remarkable a thousand params of shell money (one param is a unit of currency and is an armspan in length – in nautical terms, a for being fathom). A tutana contains 200,000 shells and nowhere else created in the world is such a large sculpture made from shell money. The Tolai are one of the only cultures in the world that masterly continue to value their shell money. Tolai without money can from so still buy rice at the local shop for two params. The preparatory measures to enable the artist, Vaniara, to many tiny Crispin Howarth, the curator at the NGA, says: “The produce his creation, took Aldridge and cameraman Thomas shells to National Gallery of Australia has been committed to Betson on a journey to the bush to watch the locals collect become a presenting the impressive arts of Papua New Guinea for ferns and climb trees to cut the cane from the tree tops, and many years. to the mudflats where girls collected tabu shells. They visited great “The tutana is an appealing object that is all the more the women as they sat around the fire shaving the cane to sculptural remarkable for being created masterly from so many tiny just the right thickness, and watched as they threaded the shells to become a great sculptural form. Many visitors to the shells with skill and accuracy. form. National Gallery of Australia may be surprised to learn that, In the documentary, Tolai chief Daniel Titi says that any man in this age of global technology, money rings are part of an who owns a tutana has enhanced status within Tolai society. active economy.” Shell money is vital to the Tolai culture for many reasons, The documentary, Tutana – Creation of a Tolai but most importantly it is needed for a unique Tolai funeral Money Wheel, can be seen at youtube.com/ custom. With permission organised by Lote, the documentary watch?v=neUCYIajyKA. includes footage from a traditional funeral ceremony in a tumbuwan enclosure.
88 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living culture
A PIECE OF PNG: baskets
TRADITONALLY New Ireland, their distinctive SPEAKING coconut baskets differentiate Baskets made from rattan cane, village identities – simply by coconut, bamboo and other fibres noticing a basket and the way were traditionally made for a it is carried, one can infer the variety of purposes, including food village of the owner. These gathering and storage, furnishings, coconut-frond baskets were garments and ceremonial uses. often made for short-term use While it is an old craft, basketry to carry food, and today are also and on display on road sides colours, sizes and leaf shapes – is a tradition that continues to seen on the streets of places like outside the main city hotels are produce distinctive colours and thrive as an art form, which often Kokopo as a ‘style’ accessory to predominantly from the Ialibu textures when woven into mats, combines both utilitarian and carry betel nut, cigarettes and area of the Southern Highlands baskets and other goods. aesthetic qualities. other items. Province. A CULTURAL AND HOW DO THEY GET WHERE ARE THEIR COLOUR? FASHION STATEMENT BASKETS MADE? WHY ARE THERE SO MANY DIFFERENT Some societies are known for Baskets can play a significant role Baskets are made all over SHAPES AND SIZES? their use of colour – for example in maintaining cultural traditions the country, but those most They vary because they are made distinctive red and purple natural and tribal/group identities. For commonly seen in craft shops in for specific purposes. Shapes pigments and variations in colour example, in East New Britain and Port Moresby, other main centres differ, for example, for baskets produced from the local berries, made for collecting shellfish or roots, bark or minerals. More crabs; storage for dried, cooked or ARCHITECTURAL recently, the introduction and freshly caught fish, vegetables; and use of modern commercial dyes, EXCELLENCE containers for clothes. which provide more vivid colours, 2015 PACIFIC GAMES VILLAGE has transformed the palette and WARREN MAHONEY & PAC ARCHITECTS WHO MAKES BASKETS? PROJECT COST K260 MILLION Throughout the Pacific region, creativity of the fibre arts along WINNER OF PNGIA & AKZO NOBEL 2016 basket making has been the with the use of new synthetic DESIGN EXCELLENCE AWARDS domain of women, who spend a materials, including packaging tape good part of their day working with and raffia. fibres, weaving and plaiting floor WHERE TO BUY THEM? coverings, food wrappers, cooking Apart from retail outlets, you will containers, storage and carrying find mats and baskets for sale at baskets, as well as special baskets cultural events held around the for ceremonial events. country, such as the Mount Hagen, HOW ARE THEY Goroka and Morobe shows. To DECORATED? appeal to tourists, the range of Geometric patterns are most woven items has expanded to PACIFIC ARCHITECTS commonly used throughout include place mats and trays. PNG LIMITED Melanesia because of the nature WHY BUY THEM? of weaving itself, but villagers Expressing your support for this SPECIALISED IN have been very adept at creating ● HIGH RISE BUILDINGS traditional craft by buying and, ● MAJOR RENOVATIONS a multitude of designs by using importantly, using, a woven mat ● INTERIOR DESIGN different plaiting techniques. or basket boosts national tourism ● LARGE SUBDIVISIONS Ceremonial baskets generally initiatives and, who knows, ● REMOTE LOCATION EXPERTISE showcase the more intricate ● PROJECT MANAGEMENT may even reduce the number geometric or openwork patterns of plastic bags. that belong to specific tribes, clans PH +675 321 4499 – JOHN BROOKSBANK EM [email protected] or island groups. Different types of pandanus – with their varying
90 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living adventure A wheelchair odyssey Through PNG BBC journalist Frank Gardner was shot and crippled by terrorists in the Middle East, but he has fulfilled a lifelong ambition to visit PNG and see the bird of paradise. Richard Andrews reports.
On location ... the wood and rattan chair on poles that allowed Frank Gardner to undertake his journey in Papua New Guinea; Gardner with a villager (opposite page).
92 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living adventure
I found the people in PNG very friendly, helpful and charming, whether it was the flight crew on Air Niugini flights or villages along the way.
rank Gardner was on I’ve always wanted to go to, Benedict Allen resurrected the assignment in Saudi Arabia one of the most distant, remote, idea. In his 20s, Allen had lived when he was shot six times exotic and difficult places, has with the Niowra people on the Fby Al-Qaeda terrorists and left always been Papua New Guinea.” Sepik River for six months and for dead. Gardner’s fascination with the undergone the crocodile man Gardner’s cameraman was killed country began at the age of eight initiation ceremony. in the 2004 ambush, which left when he was given a deck of “I’m your man,” he said, when the BBC correspondent paralysed playing cards with colourful images Gardner spoke of his unfulfilled from the waist down. of birds of paradise on the back. dream.
After 14 operations and almost “I asked my mum whether these The expedition started a year in hospital, Gardner birds actually existed. When she unceremoniously in Wewak, when returned to work. He’s since told me where they lived, I said: Gardner and his team had to been embedded four times with ‘Can I go there?’ My dad promised evacuate their guesthouse after a the military in Afghanistan and to take me to PNG one day, but new TV set imploded and covered travelled to Colombia, Borneo and unfortunately he died before it the place in smoke. the Arctic. could happen. The team then headed south, Just as significantly, his injuries It was my great regret I didn’t stayed in Yanchimangwa village, didn’t stop him pursuing a go when I still had the use of my and spent time exploring the childhood dream last year: to see legs and I thought my dream had Chambri Lakes region in East Sepik a bird of paradise in the wild. also died.” Province. “I ski and scuba dive,” says However, a chance encounter For Allen, the trip was also a Gardner, 55. “But the one country with British writer–adventurer nostalgic return to Kandingai,
July – August 2017 93 living adventure A wheelchair odyssey through PNG in the Middle Sepik, a village renowned for its intricately carved spirit masks. And just to make the trip even more challenging, the team continued on to the remote Hansemann Mountains in Madang Province. “I found the people in PNG very friendly, helpful and charming, whether it was the flight crew on Air Niugini flights or villages along the way. “I’m particularly grateful to Felix, my local companion, a master carpenter, who looked after my safety and comfort. He made the difference between a tough time ardner and a hard time.”
Sepik snapshots ... rank G
As most of the terrain was too villagers along the : F e rugged for wheelchair access, Felix Sepik River (this page); designed a wood and rattan chair a bird of paradise (opposite page). PICTUR
with poles, which was shouldered pull-ups on a beam in our hut, but by four people. Gardner was then finally accepted that leaving was carried in relays by hired locals as the right decision.” he passed through the territory of Gardner was evacuated by different clans. helicopter to Port Moresby and “This was quite dangerous as we then flown to Brisbane, where he were going along very narrow hill spent five days in St Andrews War trails with sheer drops,” he says. Memorial hospital. “If any of those guys had missed Gardner returned home, very their footing I would have tumbled disappointed, to recover in London. down and probably broken my But the dream was now too strong neck. They took huge care, never and he returned to PNG four missed their footing once and never months later with Allen. This time complained.” they flew from Port Moresby to Tari Narrow mountain trails and and Gardner was carried through sheer drops were not the greatest forests in the Southern Highlands. dangers Gardner faced. Something Finally, he got to see a bird of that seemed much more innocuous paradise. disrupted the dream. “The first time was frustrating. Halfway through the expedition, I could hear the birds calling he discovered two pressure sores. to each other, but couldn’t see Looking at the picture, medics them because I was stuck in a considered the lesions life- wheelchair. But eventually I caught threatening and urged Gardner to glimpse of this amazing cascade seek immediate treatment. of golden feathers and chocolate “I really fought against the advice brown plumage. at first and said I was clinically “The first-ever glimpse of a fine,” he says. “To prove it, I did 10 bird of paradise in the wild is a
94 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living adventure A wheelchair odyssey through PNG PICTURES: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY PROMOTION TOURISM PICTURES: PNG
The first-ever glimpse of a bird of paradise in the wild is a moment you never forget. It’s a glimpse of paradise itself.
moment you never forget. It’s a Gardner’s odyssey was recently glimpse of paradise itself.” screened by the BBC as a two- Gardner also rhapsodises about part documentary called Birds of camping in the Highlands and Paradise: The Ultimate Quest. waking to hear “the magical, For Gardner, seeing the birds mystical call from somewhere in of his childhood dream, offered the dawn mist”. “a form of closure” to his injuries. “There was nothing but birds, “In a country that’s largely fish and sky. It felt like heaven.” inaccessible to the disabled, the Another highlight was a river good nature and resourcefulness trip, with the expedition greeted of its people meant that, with a by villagers in two large canoes. bit of determination, somebody “They came out beating their who can’t walk can still visit one drums in unison and displaying of the remotest places on the elaborate headdresses and planet and see one of the most necklaces made with feathers beautiful creatures in nature. from the very birds of paradise I “In travel terms it’s the holy was hoping to see.” grail.”
July – August 2017 95 living nature Animal kingdom PNG is the land of dreams for biologists, with more chance of discovering new species than almost anywhere else on the planet. Brian Johnston reports. PICTURES: WORLD WIDE FUND FOR NATURE PNG's 'new' creatures ... (from f scientists go down in the woods today, they’re sure of a big surprise. left) the tree-climbing litoria frog; More than one, in fact. In Papua New Guinea, it seems researchers can a tube-nosed fruit bat; a feather- hardly poke a stick, turn over a leaf, look under a rock or climb a tree tailed possum; the grasshopper with pink eyes and a penchant for eating without encountering the truly remarkable: animals unknown to science. flowers; a yellow-spotted frog; a I rainbow fish; and a monitor lizard. For those in the business, it’s like being the proverbial kid in a candy store so unusual you don’t know what you’ll be encountering next. Some years ago, the Wildlife Conservation Society carried out a survey in just one tiny part of PNG, a series of limestone cliffs known as the Hindenburg Wall in the Star Mountains of Western Province. Its “They’re strikingly distinctive evolutionary lineages unknown before, with researchers returned with 89 plant and animal species hitherto unknown a group that is already very distinctive on the evolutionary tree of jumping to science. A separate expedition in the same area by Conservation spiders,” explains Wayne Maddison, a scientist from the University of International documented 600 species, of which an astonishing 50 were British Columbia. “Their key position on the evolutionary tree will help us new, including three kinds of frogs, several spiders and a gecko of a type understand how this unique group of jumping spiders has evolved.” never before seen in dense rainforest habitat. The startling returns on such relatively modest expeditions point to Even more striking, has been the discovery of entire new genera, how little we know, as yet, about the rich biodiversity of PNG. According a taxonomic ranking that groups related species together (such as the to the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), a total of 1060 new species genus canis for dogs, coyotes and wolves). was recorded in PNG in the decade from 1998 to 2008, ranging from a Three new genera of jumping spiders were among the remarkable brightly coloured rainbow fish to a cuscus – a marsupial about the size finds on the Hindenburg Wall. of a cat – and a freshwater shark measuring 2.5 metres.
96 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living nature
Scientists found an average of two new species each week from 1998 to 2008, nearly unheard of in this day and age. In the years since, however, things have only hotted up.
“If you look at New Guinea in terms of biological diversity, it’s much more like a continent than an island,” says WWF Western Melanesia’s Dr Neil Stronach. “Scientists found an average of two new species each week from 1998 to 2008, nearly unheard of in this day and age.” In the years since, however, things have only hotted up. When Conservation International launched another species-hunting expedition, this time into the Muller Mountains, it returned with 200 unknown
species including a tiny long-nosed frog, a bright orange spider and an extraordinary katydid (grasshopper) with pink eyes and a penchant for eating flowers. Program director, entomologist Dr Leeanne Alonso, picked up 42 individual katydids and was stunned to find that the sample contained 20 new species. In all, nearly 100 new species and several new genera of insects were recorded. Among 20 new frogs was a yellow-spotted variety (platymantis sp. nov.) that lives in dense, high-altitude bamboo thickets, and which lays eggs on land, which hatch directly into froglets without a tadpole stage. Another new species (litoria sp. nov.) lives high in the forest canopy. Although they could constantly be heard, only one was captured by one of the research scientists bold enough to climb a tree. The research team was also able to scientifically describe some species that, while not entirely new, had never been properly documented, including a type of feather-tailed possum and a tube-nosed fruit bat.
July – August 2017 97 living nature Animal kingdom
This is a joy for scientists, but even better is the rediscovery of a species thought to be extinct. A decade ago two student researchers from the University of Queensland were on a field expedition in Abau in Central Province when they caught a New Guinea big-eared bat (pharotis imogene), which hadn’t been sighted since specimens were first collected in 1890. Perhaps none of this is entirely surprising. PNG’s rugged, remote terrain and offshore reefs are difficult to access and have been little studied by science. What we do know is that PNG is one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, making up just half a per cent of the Earth’s surface but home to seven per cent of its known species. Two-thirds of these are found nowhere else, so we can reasonably conclude that there are many more unique creatures. For the moment, PNG claims some 740 bird species, 640 amphibians and reptiles, 300 fish and 280 species of mammal. That tally continues to increase, much to the excitement of the scientific community. In 2014, ecologist Euan Ritchie from Melbourne’s Deakin University, set up camera traps in the Torricelli Mountains of
A new kid on the block ... Dr Leeanne Alonso, an entomologist who collected 42 individual grasshoppers in PNG and was stunned to identify 20 new species.
July – August 2017 99 living nature Animal kingdom north-western PNG, intending to study the highly endangered tenkile, a variety of tree kangaroo. What he captured on camera instead were several new mammal species, including various rodents and bandicoots and a remarkable dorcopsulus wallaby the size of a small dog. In 2015, attention turned to Manus and Mussau islands in northern PNG, where researchers quickly discovered new species of frogs, damselflies, leaf-nosed and tube-nosed bats, giant geckos and a tree-climbing dragon lizard with elongated toes. Last year, scientists produced a new freshwater turtle species (elseya rhodini) – though not at all new to local islanders, for which it is a food source. Recently, a new ant with dragon-like spines caused a rumble in the media when Japanese scientists – in a clever PR stunt – named it phidole drogon after the largest and most fearsome of the dragons in Game of Thrones. Yet there’s no fantasy series quite like PNG biology, in which every turn of the page reveals another scientific surprise.
Taking the high ground ... the litoria frog that likes to live high in the forest canopy. MP_1716598
100 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living spotted in
in … tex ed as tt o p S Jumping for joy
12,715km n a i t t This Papua New Guinean has athletic ambitions bigger h u l p et ka e rellie than Texas, Kevin McQuillan reports.
thlete Rellie Kaputin hopes to compete “Rellie is one of the best competitors that I in the 2018 Commonwealth Games, have ever seen or coached,” says Flowers. “She the 2019 Pacific Games and the 2020 had the most consistent set of jumps of anyone AOlympics. She’s well on her way, if in the competition and had her biggest jump her successes this year at West Texas A&M when it mattered most.” University are any guide. Kaputin is the PNG national record holder in In February, Kaputin led her university team the triple and long jump, and regarded as the to its fourth consecutive Lone Star Conference best in the region, after winning three gold Indoor Championships, winning all three jumping medals at the 2015 Pacific Games, all with events and setting two Papua New Guinea record-breaking performances. national records. She’s one of 11 PNG athletes who are A month later, she won the triple jump with studying and competing in the yet another PNG national record of 13.09 US this year. Among them are metres, came second in the long jump and Poro Gahekave, Shirley Vunatup was placed sixth in a and Naomi Kerari, who are at tightly contested high- South Plains College in Texas, jump competition. Adrine Monagi and Peniel As a result, she was Richard, who are at Angelo named Indoor Field Event State University in Texas, Athlete of the Year (division and sprinter/hurdler Afure two) by the USA Track and Adah, who is at Minnesota Field Coaches Association, State University. and was given the award for Born in Tinganalom Outstanding Female Field village, just outside Athlete of the Lone Star Kokopo in East New Conference Championships. Britain, Kaputin won “I have been working very a scholarship to study hard to achieve my goals at North Iowa Area Community in all my competitions,” College after finishing her schooling she says. at Kokopo Secondary in 2012. “Coming here is like a In Iowa, she earned All-American honours in dream come true and I enjoy the triple jump, high jump and long jump at the being in the classroom working hard every 2015 National Junior College Championships. single day to get my degree (general studies, Rellie Kaputin … "I am blessed to be part of the When her scholarship finished, she was picked specialising in accountancy), I am also blessed best track and field team. They are like family to up by West Texas and again won to be part of the best track and field team. They me.” All-American honours in three different events are like family to me, while I am far from home.” Her head coach, Darren Flowers, says he’s at the same championships in 2016. Her 14 proud of the way Kaputin competes for the points at the championships is the most by any school, adding, “her achievements are an West Texas athlete. example of where hard work and humility can take you”.
102 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
• •
• • • • • •
• living wellness
BY BRONWEN GORA Tackling diabetes iabetes is one of the biggest health In PNG, the International Diabetes Association The key to avoiding type 2 diabetes is problems facing not only Papua New predicts that between 2010 and 2030 type 2 following a diet based on vegetables, legumes, Guinea, but many South Pacific nations, diabetes will increase by as much as 140 per fruit, low-fat dairy products and whole grains Das well as South-East Asia. cent, (from 76,709 in 2010 to 172,000 in 2030). while eschewing saturated fats and processed Virtually unheard of across these regions just The influx of Western-style processed food goods for healthy oils from natural foods such as over 50 years ago, type 2 diabetes, the form and declining physical activity are largely to avocados and nuts. caused by lifestyle factors, is now rife. blame. Just a few tweaks to your diet can make a In Tonga, for instance, diabetes has doubled Local diets, once based on fresh fish, huge difference, as can finding a few recipes since 1973. Among the 22 nations that make vegetables and fruit, have steadily been usurped such as this one to make the transition to up the Pacific islands, one in every four people by Western convenience foods. The problem is healthier eating as simple as possible. has diabetes. And across South-East Asia, 25 that the high fat, sugar and salt in these foods This nutrition-packed recipe is from the Fijian million people have been diagnosed with the play havoc with the body and contribute directly Ministry of Health’s Wellness Unit. disease, an affliction that can lead to major to type 2 diabetes. It can be made with seasonal vegetables health complications such as blindness and That’s why it makes so much sense to get from the local market and is ideal for a tasty heart failure when left unmanaged. back to food basics. breakfast or lunch.
Vegetable and egg bake Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Preheat oven to Place onion, Lightly beat eggs Pour egg mixture Serves 8 200°C. Grease a garlic and other and milk together over vegetables. Ingredients dish with a little vegetables into with a fork. Add Sprinkle over black 1 onion, finely chopped; 3 cloves oil/butter. dish. Sprinkle over self-raising flour pepper. Bake for garlic, finely chopped; 2 cups seasonal cheese. and mix well about 30 minutes, vegetables, finely sliced or chopped; ½ (making sure there or until golden cup low-fat cheese, grated; 4 eggs; 1½ are no lumps). brown, and set in cups low-fat milk; ¾ cup self-raising flour; the middle. Serve freshly ground black pepper (to taste); ½ hot or cold. tsp cooking oil (enough to lightly grease pie dish).
104 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living wellness
Body temples: Five of Macau’s best hotel spas
St Regis Macau: The 38th-floor Iridium Spa is the highest in the city. Guests are treated to sweeping 1 views and a chic interior with seven treatment rooms and a Thai massage room for the spa’s signature 80-minute treatment. Conrad Macau: The Bodhi Spa is Macau’s only spa offering Indian 2Ayurvedic treatments. Beautiful oils are used to balance the body, mind and Resort facilities include a spa, restaurant and Soaking up the scenery spirit through a range of treatments bar/lounge plus two large hot-spring facilities, A new and healthy way to absorb the and massages based on body type as one of which has an open-air infinity bath. tranquillity surrounding Mount Fuji has arrived determined by Ayurvedic principles. with the opening, in April, of the hot spring When it's time to dine, choose from a (onsen) resort Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu. soba noodle restaurant or a teppanyaki Wynn Macau: The richly decorated All 150 Japanese-style rooms come with a high-end Japanese steakhouse. Spa at Encore pampers clients not just private open-air hot spring bath facing Japan’s See hakone-tenyu.com. 3in one room but an entire private suite most famous dormant volcano. where they enjoy a steam room, sauna and hydrotherapy bath as well as their Bali spa set to open treatment. The ultimate is the Encore Signature Treatment, including a six- Bali’s newest luxury destination, the Movenpick hand massage by three therapists. Resort & Spa Jimbaran Hotel, will open its eagerly awaited spa and wellness centre in August. The spa will offer a range of treatments and products highlighting Balinese and Indonesian spa and beauty culture. Meanwhile health-conscious guests can avail themselves of several upscale facilities. The glamorous hotel has a 24-hour gym full of the latest machines, and offers yoga classes. Most impressive, however, is the large lap pool. For runners, the sands of Jimbaran Bay are just Galaxy Macau: The Banyan Tree Spa 100 metres away. (pictured) is lauded as Macau’s most See movenpick.com. luxurious. A traditional Asian-style 4interior of warm woods, bamboo and Move those muscles stone is the setting for its famous rain- A Singapore gym has brought a new meaning to the term mist showers and steam baths, which switching on your muscles. VisionGym is the first in Singapore precede the blissful body treatments. to offer Electro Muscle Stimulation (EMS) training, the Ritz Carlton Macau: Opened in 2015, name for using electrical impulse currents to stimulate your the Espa is among Macau’s newest muscles. These currents send contractions down into deep spas. Wow factor is provided by the muscle tissues in a process promoted as 18 times more 5expert pampering and modern decor effective than weight training. based on Chinese and Portuguese Participants must wear a special PowerSuit connected to an app architecture. controlled by a trainer who monitors exercise progress and intensity on an iPad. VisionGym has drop-in rates for travellers. See visionbodyasia.com.
July – August 2017 105 Living gadgets BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI Gadgets and travel accessories
Smart sunnies Handmade in Italy, SEE eyewear has become hot property around the world, because of its lack of ostentatious branding, reasonable price and great design. The retro 4839 Sun model, with its square style and UV-protected sun lenses, could be the pick of the bunch. Available in a range of lens gradients and frame colours. About PGK317; seeeyewear.com.
Film camera There’s no denying the ease of use and high image quality of digital cameras, but for anyone wanting to get back into old-school 35mm photography, the fully manual Pentax K1000 is the way to go. With all the basics and no intimidating extras, it’s super easy to use and also virtually indestructible. From about PGK262; ebay.com.
Anti-crease shirt shuttle Ironing while on the road has to be on every traveller’s list of their least favourite travel chores. So why not pack a few Patrona shirt shuttles with you? The inner folding board with its curved edges means that your shirt comes out sans creases, so you can go straight from on board, to the boardroom, looking like the consummate professional. About PGK124; patrona.com. Heated insoles ThermaCELL has dreamt up these innovative remote-controlled Silent mouse heated insoles. Whether you’re hiking, hunting, exploring or You’ve got a mountain of work to get through on the working, the thermostat-driven control system and water- plane, but you don’t want to annoy your seat neighbour resistant fabric liner will keep your feet toasty warm and dry. with constant clicking. Enter Logitech’s M330 Silent Plus They last for up to five hours, recharge in four, and can be mouse, which is 90 per cent quieter than most. It has recharged at least 500 times. From about PGK429; high-performance feet that slide quietly over the desktop, heat.thermacell.com. plus the smooth scroll wheel. About PGK96; logitech.com.
106 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Living gadgets
Stylish bandana Portable light Whether you wrap it around your wrist, tie it Possibly the smartest, most sustainable light around your neck, or drape it over your nose and source for your next outdoor adventure, the mouth, a bandana is the ultimate in good-looking LuminAID PackLight 16 inflatable lamp produces hiking accessories. This 100 per cent cotton up to 30 hours of LED light after charging in the one from US outdoor clothing and accessory sun. Obviously it’s portable – it folds up and can brand Filson is silk-screened by hand. Machine then be clipped to your backpack – but it’s also washable. About PGK102; filson.com. made from a durable and weather-resistant PVC-free plastic, and only weighs 56 grams. About PGK64; luminaid.com.
Deft duffel Perfect for quick work trips where you don’t want to check-in luggage, the Ted Baker Kray duffel bag seamlessly combines durability and swankiness. Made from faux leather that looks almost better than the real thing, it’s available in chocolate or black, with an eye-catching red or blue stripe. About PGK525; shop.nordstrom.com.
Bike compass Clip the Beeline on to your bike’s handlebars, pair it up with the free app on your mobile phone, then simply follow the arrow that’s always pointing towards your destination while also telling you the distance remaining. Like an old-school compass Celebrity gumboots rather than a sat-nav, it gives you the freedom to There are gumboots … and then there are the choose your own path, and helps you explore as iconic Hunter gumboots. Handcrafted from well as navigate. Available in red, blue and black. lightweight natural rubber and the footwear About PGK408; beeline.co. of choice for celebrities and fashionistas, the waterproof pull-tab British boots, with elastic side gussets, are so handsome, practical and comfortable that you’ll want to wear them even when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. About PGK412; world.hunterboots.com. Anti-motion sickness band For anyone who suffers from motion sickness, the sheen can be rubbed off travel pretty quickly. Thank goodness, then, for the Reliefband. Clinically proven and FDA-cleared, the watch- like band uses the body’s neural pathways, via the delivery of gentle pulses to the nerves on the underside of the wrist, to switch motion sickness-related nausea off. About PGK303; reliefband.com.
July – August 2017 107 Living movies By GREG CLARKE
Paris Can Wait A Ghost Story 20th Century Women Alec Baldwin is one of the stars of this movie. Acclaimed director David Lowery explores Just as he did in his Oscar-winning film Given the publicity he’s garnered sending up loss, human longing and connection in a film Beginners, director Mike Mills again explores an American president, the timing of this film starring Academy Award winner Casey Affleck the bond between parent and child. In this film, may even trump his impersonations. (Manchester by the Sea) and Rooney Mara, described as a 1970s cultural odyssey, the Diane Lane, who played Martha Kent in who played Lucy in Lion and Lisbeth in The Girl wonderful Annette Bening plays a gregarious, Batman v Superman, and French actor Arnaud with the Dragon Tattoo. open-minded single mother, Dorothea. Viard star in this romance/comedy along Compared to some of the big budget films Her child, Jamie (Lucas Jade Zumann with Baldwin. Lowery has worked on (Pete’s Dragon), from Netflix’s Sense8), is her teenage son. Lane’s character, Anne, is at a crossroads A Ghost Story cost coconuts to make. Dorothea isn’t quite sure she can guide him in her life. Married to a successful but Affleck spends much of his time wearing on his path to becoming a man. inattentive movie producer played by a white bed sheet. Yet this only reinforces Giving plenty of credence to women power, Baldwin, she unexpectedly finds herself the sense that this is a story of meaning Dorothea recruits the help of two women to taking a car trip from Cannes to Paris with her rather than thrill. help raise Jamie. Her housemate, Abbie, is husband’s business associate. Affleck– his character’s name is never a photographer whose energy is fuelled by What should be a seven-hour drive turns mentioned on screen – dies in a car accident anger and the new-wave scene. into a carefree two-day adventure with at the beginning of the film and his ghost Julie, another friend of Dorothea and Jamie, an over-sized suitcase load of diversions returns to the family home to console his played by Elle Fanning, is also conscripted involving sightseeing at places of renown, wife. Mostly, this bed-sheeted ghost is into a version of parenthood. She’s oblivious food and wine, humour, wisdom and a passive watcher of his wife’s dealings to the fact that Jamie is in love with her. romance. with grief. Men aren’t excluded from Jamie’s life For Anne, the journey with her husband’s Of the film, a critic for the BBC wrote: though. Billy Crudup plays a handyman who colleague has significant consequences. “The movie is pushing toward something is also called on for guidance. The trip reawakens her more than caffeine simple and pure, almost elemental in the way Mills’s film weaves social, cultural and ever will, and she finds a new lust for life. that spaces are haunted by the memories political threads into a tapestry of late 1970s Director Eleanor Coppola, a documentary they contain, and how we may leave those life in the US. film-maker, artist, and writer, is the wife of spaces but they never leave us”. director Francis Ford Coppola. Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema screens many of our reviewed movies. For screening dates and session times, see paradisecinemaspng.com.
108 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
Living Books BY GREG CLARKE
Line of Fire (Fourth Estate), by Ian Code Breakers (Allen and Unwin), Kingdom Cons (Text Publishing), by Townsend by Craig Collie Yuri Herrera ‘On the afternoon of Monday 18 May 1942, During World War 2, when the Japanese Yuri Herrera is a celebrated Mexican and Latin Richard Manson sat in the back of an uncovered threatened to dominate Papua New Guinea, American novelist. In Kingdom Cons, Herrera, utility truck belonging to the Japanese Navy two secret Australia-based organisations a political scientist, magazine editor and and watched the river of dust swirl and tumble worked to break Japan’s military codes. possessing a PhD in literature, may well mine behind him. This, according to the publisher, is the the expertise of his diverse careers. He might have imagined, as 11-year-old boys largely untold story of the people who This is the story of an artist who becomes sometimes do, that the road was moving and cracked the codes. These brilliant and beloved by his kingdom and begins to he was not, and that if he jumped it would idiosyncratic cryptographers came with question the inexorable power of a king. The carry him away to the mountains, where no not unexpected notable achievements in story combines elements of hardboiled crime, one would find him. Last chance, then, for this mathematics, but some were experts in myth and allegory and has won a prominent story to end differently.’ classic literature and others had lived in Spanish literary award. This is the beautifully written opening to Japan. They patiently unravelled the codes in It may yet win as much acclaim as his a tragic story. In May 1942, in Rabaul, five the Japanese signals and ultimately played second book – Signs Preceding the End of Australian civilians were taken by Japanese crucial roles in the battles of Midway and the World – which has been described as soldiers to a pit at the base of a volcano and the Coral Sea, as well as general Douglas a masterpiece. Published in 2015, this novel executed as spies. A mother, her brother, MacArthur’s push into the Philippines. about the border between Mexico and the her husband and her friend. And her 11-year- An intercept station in Queensland brought US and those who cross it, may have been old son. about the end of Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, written with enviable insightfulness given Who were these people and what had led the commander-in-chief of the Japanese fleet the coming of Donald Trump. them to this terrible end? in the Pacific. Herrera explores the crossings and This is a narrative of history, military conflict The code breakers deciphered information translations people make in the minds and and, yes, volcanology. All of it is woven about Yamamoto’s travels, and his plane was language as they move from one country together within the story of one ordinary but shot down. to another, especially when there’s no going doomed family. Collie is also the author of the highly back. acclaimed The Path of Infinite Sorrow: Herrera’s novels may be Latin American in The Japanese on the Kokoda Track. origin, but, as with much fine writing, there is relevance for all.
110 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
strictly business from www.businessadvantagepng.com Currency for the future
Kevin McQuillan speaks to a Papua New Guinean entrepreneur who is keen for the virtual currency Bitcoin to be adopted in PNG.
young Papua New Guinean at scale. The regulators’ appreciation of this three things to know entrepreneur is bringing Silicon innovation and a willingness to experiment about bitcoin Valley to Papua New Guinea to is key. A help boost financial inclusion in 1. The supply of Bitcoin is limited to 21 Ninai points out that PNG is a country the country. million Bitcoins and that can never be dependent on close human relationships – Shane Ninai, managing partner of Day One changed. where $5000 dollars in cash may not mean Investments, is encouraging the use of the 2. Bitcoin was released in 2009, as much as three pigs and a shell necklace. virtual currency, Bitcoin. “For the first time developed by a programmer, or a group of “Informal and alternative economies and in history, we have the technology to bank programmers, named Satoshi Nakamoto. governance systems … are deeply ingrained the unbanked,” 25-year old Ninai says. in our culture and are still alive and well; and With only 20 per cent of the country 3. Subway, Virgin Galactic, Dell and Expedia. the Blockchain allows us for the first time to com are among the large companies holding bank accounts, PNG is an ideal place capture this activity.” reported to accept Bitcoin. to create an alternative low-cost banking “Instead of trying to fit the unbanked into system, he says, but notes it is likely to take a narrow financial system, Blockchain allows up to 10 years before the technology will According to ABC reports, the Bank of us to create and capture these alternative become fully mainstream in PNG. PNG and an Australian aid contractor are economic systems that bypass normal That technology is built on two emerging, looking at how Blockchain could dramatically markets.” internet-based platforms: the Bitcoin improve PNG’s low rate of financial inclusion. Ninai says that while this technology has virtual currency and Blockchain, which The Australian Government has allocated taken off in the US and Europe, the real manages online transactions (see definitions $AUD200,000 to help the bank investigate value is to figure out how to get it to scale in next page). the possible applications of Blockchain developing nations, where people are most “The first step (in PNG) is to create all technology. excluded from formal financial systems. the regulatory ‘sand-boxes’,” says Ninai, In emerging markets, Ninai told a Blockchain In 2015, Ninai participated in the Kumul “which involves having the Bank of Papua conference in London in January, a regulator- Game Changers entrepreneurship program, New Guinea experiment with this new led model is the only way to ensure that where he was selected for the highly technology.” these systems have value and are transacted competitive Silicon Valley entrepreneurial
112 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business Money
accelerator program at Draper University. and to build platforms for extraordinary what are bitcoin and After graduating, Ninai joined Draper growth, jobs, and wealth creation. blockchain? University staff as an entrepreneur-in- Ninai says Day One Investments is Bitcoin is a virtual currency and payment residence, mentoring some 170 innovative scheduled to close its fundraising soon, system, which uses a software program to companies. having secured capital commitments from record and pay for things without a third- a reputable anchor PNG investor, along with party broker, like a bank or government. international investors. Users install a Bitcoin wallet app on their He says he has identified East New Britain phone or computer, and buy the virtual East New Britain Province, where shell money is a form of currency from a Bitcoin exchange. accepted currency, as a potential pilot Province, where province. Its promoters say Bitcoin is ideal for people in “To this day, micro-finance institutions developing countries, who might have mobile shell money is a form of phones but not bank accounts. and savings and loans societies are willing accepted currency, is a to provide loans against this shell money Blockchain simply refers to a bookkeeping potential pilot province. because they recognise it as currency,” method that chains together entries so that he says. they are very difficult to modify later. Among “For micro-finance institutions, this the world’s leading companies now using technology has a lot of potential and that’s Bitcoin and Blockchain technology are IBM, n Expedia, Maersk and Dell. where we’re seeing the most interest.” Co-founder of Day One Investments, Shane Ninai will be a guest speaker For more information, see a Silicon Valley-based venture capital at the 2017 Business Advantage Papua bitcoin.com. fund investing in Blockchain technology New Guinea Investment Conference companies, Ninai’s partner is Tim Draper. on September 7 and 8 in Sydney. His company, Draper Associates, aims to See pnginvestmentconference.com. transform industries with new technologies,
The stories in our ‘Strictly Business’ section were first published in PNG’s online business magazine, PICTURE: ILLAN KAPRANGI ILLAN PICTURE: businessadvantagepng.com, and are re-published by arrangement with Business Advantage International.
Shane Ninai … “PNG is an ideal place to create an alternative low-cost banking system.”
July – August 2017 113 strictly business building Laying solid foundations David James speaks to the managing director of a building company that is making its mark across PNG.
hodes is a pre-fabricated buildings PNG is the company’s main market, but it is company focused on the Papua also registered in Fiji. Rhodes is also currently New Guinea market. Managing diversifying into other countries in the Pacific. Rdirector, Emanuel Papas, says Papas believes the barriers to entry in PNG the best way to describe the company are high, which means that once a company is as a designer, supplier and provider of is established it is in a position of advantage. prefabricated buildings. “It takes a while to set up, it takes a while “The vertical integration (of design, supply to get your feet on the ground and the right and delivery) allows us to deliver buildings local people in place. It is quite difficult to do at very competitive pricing, whether it is business sometimes. tenders or just the supply of materials and “Logistically, there are some very remote Building up … Emanuel Papas and one of his kits on their own,” he says. areas in PNG, which makes it tough to deliver company’s prefabricated buildings (right).
114 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business building
on your contracts. You certainly have to keep “Our typical project structure will be a working at that.” supervisor and a leading hand and they He says the company has operations across will act as supervisors and instructors for PNG. “The main facility for our manufacturing the local village’s mostly unskilled labour and logistics plant is in Port Moresby, and there force. Which, based on our system, means are also regional lay down yards in Wabag, it doesn’t take long for people to become Alotau and Arawa to support various provinces. familiar with how it all gets installed. Then there are the individual project offices.” “We are having some good success in Papas says one of the company’s main training local people who can then utilise focuses is on Overseas Development these newly acquired building skills for other Assistance projects. projects, or for themselves in their own “School buildings we provide are funded capacity. It is quite a satisfying outcome at mostly by DFAT (the Australian Department the end of each project.” of Foreign Affairs and Trade). And then we do Papas believes that PNG is transforming health centres, which are funded by the ADB into a country with a burgeoning middle (the Asian Development Bank). operation in China, a back-end design office in class. “There are skills, there are growth We do have some housing projects with the Philippines, a head office in Australia), but opportunities, and there are job opportunities. the likes of Nambawan Super. We are also in Papas says the operations are very localised. “They (Papua New Guineans) aspire to get discussions with various housing authorities “I would estimate that about 95 per cent of quality housing and a better-quality lifestyle in the Pacific in order to provide affordable our labour force in PNG is national. And I don’t and that is where our investment is, in terms housing for the demand that exists.” just mean our own local staff out of our head of providing housing and social infrastructure Rhodes may have a regional back-office office in PNG. I mean local as in the local – to support growing and improving structure (a procurement and manufacturing villages where our projects are. communities.” n
SECURING PNG www.guarddogpng.com
THE GUARD DOG GROUP
LAE +675 475 1069 SECURING PNG POM +675 323 0277 [email protected] www.guarddogpng.com [email protected]
July – August 2017 115 Solomon Islands special feature business guide STAYING BUOYANT Where to now for the Solomon Islands economy?
Making a splash … tourism Business ties are strong between Papua New Guinea is one sector that can help future-proof the economy of and the Solomon Islands. In this special eight-page the Solomon Islands. section, David James looks at the economy of PNG’s nearest neighbour and talks to the experts about future opportunities. There are also tips for business travellers: where to stay, visa requirements and more.
116 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE special feature
he Solomon Islands’ economy grew by Palm Oil (itself owned by Malaysia’s Sime Seva Payevskiy, the resident representative, three and a half times between 2003 Darby). Solomon Islands, for the International Finance and 2016. But, according to the Asian “They are looking at a significant program Corporation, says the economy’s weaknesses T Development Bank, logging has been to expand over the next five to 10 years in stem from its smallness, remoteness and the most significant source of government the Guadalcanal plains, which will likely triple dispersed population. revenue over the past decade, accounting for the production. “This increases the costs of public about half the government’s export earnings. “We should be exploring and driving service delivery, constrains the reach of That is expected to decline, meaning the innovation in some of the niche products. infrastructure and reduces the range of country must find ways to diversify its That has a lot of scope to improve our opportunities for private sector development. industry base. export sector and create a lot of jobs for the “Remoteness inflates transport costs for all Jay Bartlett, chair of the Solomon Islands’ community and the economy. traded inputs and products, which, together Chamber of Commerce and Industry, with lack of economies of scale in the identifies agribusiness, mining and tourism as provision of basic infrastructure required for three sectors with potential. economic activity, pushes up the total cost of “With agribusiness, there is a lot of Agribusiness, goods and services. scope and a lot of opportunity. Much of the “The upside, however, is a relatively rich population is rural and a lot of the population mining and tourism resource base in agriculture, including is already engaged in the informal sector in are three sectors with fisheries, and also untapped wealth of natural agriculture. resources.” “So, we could possibly look at ways potential. Mining policy reform, says Payevskiy, is where we can value-add; look at the supply also of considerable importance because the chains and make markets more accessible – sector is one of the few major alternative domestic markets and maybe also regional sources of growth. and international markets. There is a lot of Bartlett believes the biggest challenge is scope to directly impact people working in “There is also opportunity with other crops access into markets. “That is probably a the rural and informal sectors.” such as coconut oil, taro, cassava and kava,” bigger challenge than the actual physical At the moment, Bartlett says, the Solomon notes Bartlett. “Those are obviously not going logistics of it: getting the right certification in Islands’ biggest agricultural export is palm oil. to be huge volumes. They are done on a more place to enable some of our crops to go into The main player is Guadalcanal Plains Palm small-holder scale. But I think that has a lot of some of the bigger markets, like Australia Oil, which is majority owned by New Britain opportunity.” and New Zealand.”
PNG COMPANIES WITH A FOOTHOLD IN THE SOLOMON ISLANDS Many PNG companies are already in the According to the Australian Department of between its six major islands, and 900 smaller Solomons, confirming commonality in the two Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT), growth islands, increase the difficulty of transporting Melanesian economies. In many areas, the two accelerated in 2016 to 3.2 per cent. DFAT goods and equipment. nations are at a similar level of development expects it to moderate to 3 per cent in 2017 There have been political issues, especially and face similar cultural and business and fall to 2.8 per cent in 2018 “as the short- over land alienation controversies, some of challenges. term benefits of expansionary fiscal policy and which date back to colonial times. In 2003, unsustainable logging dissipate”. According to the PNG High Commission this broke out into open conflict, leading to in Honiara, there are 52 PNG companies Although smaller, the country has many the Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon operating in the Solomons, among them parallels with neighbouring Papua New Guinea. Islands (RAMSI) being invited in. RAMSI is Bank South Pacific, New Britain Palm Oil, According to the Asian Development Bank scheduled to complete its mission on June 30. Credit Corporation, Kramer Ausenco and (ADB), the majority of the population, which is There are also physical challenges. According Bmobile-Vodafone, representing an $SBD2 growing at about 3 per cent a year, is involved to the World Bank, population density, at billion investment portfolio and employing in subsistence or cash crop agriculture. Less 20 people per square kilometre, is among more than 5000 Solomon islanders. than a quarter of the population is involved in the lowest in the world. The World Bank paid work. The Solomon Islands is currently going through says significant funds are spent on small and a period of economic consolidation after The Solomon Islands has significant medium-sized capital expenditures, but there experiencing a strong period of economic infrastructure challenges. Unlike PNG, there are limited systems of financing for recurrent growth over the past decade. is no undersea telecommunications cable to costs and ongoing maintenance. provide international connectivity. Distances
July – August 2017 117 SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE special feature Staying buoyant
Tax policy is considered an important issue mechanisms “where we can formally register of our overall international visitation. With by businesses. customary land through landowner groups or new operators coming online in both our “Businesses in Honiara often report the associations”. He believes it is a long-term traditional and developing source markets, relatively high burden of taxation falling on challenge. we are confident this growth will be compliant businesses, the scarcity of urban “We need to allocate resources today to achieved.” land for business expansion,” says Payevskiy. enable that to be dealt with. In Melanesia, The most high-profile tourist and business Bartlett says the Solomons Chamber has land can be a quite complex and sensitive accommodation venue is the Heritage Park been talking to government about broadening issue and there is not one solution, due to Hotel in Honiara. General manager Sanjay the tax base and diversifying the economy. the different island and cultural differences.” Bhargava says it is a tough market to operate “At the moment, the tax system is quite Tourism has great potential, according in. “It is basically for business travellers. We complicated. If it could be simplified, made to the chief executive of Solomon Islands haven’t really been exposed so much to the easier, it would catch a lot more and contribute Visitors Bureau, Josefa Tuamoto. He says world. We are in the process of doing it. more into the government’s revenue. international visitation in 2016 increased by “The economy of the Solomon Islands isn’t “The other big fundamental issue that is 7.3 per cent on the previous year. It was the so very strong that it can withstand many ongoing is the land issue, which needs to be third year in a row that numbers have risen. shocks. A lot of exterior forces are there addressed. There needs to be more effort “One of our biggest opportunities lies in which affect whether or not there is a good put into mechanisms that allow ownership the fact the Solomon Islands holds strong occupancy in the hotel.” structures to be put in place for customary appeal for international travellers looking for Bhargava says tourism is held back by land in order to open it up for development something different,” he says. “It is a unique cost considerations. “It is beautiful, but as and investment.” ‘living’ culture with World War 2 history, a destination it is not very cheap.” Growth Bartlett says some processes where diving, fishing, surfing, trekking and yachting. has nevertheless been strong and Bhargava local landowners can address land issues, “We ideally want to grow our leisure expects that to continue. “It will take time; are required. He points to the need for market, which currently sits on 30 per cent it is a very young country.” n
HONIARA’S FINEST
*FREE • Luxurious waterfront rooms and suites • Club Bar • Resort pool • Serviced Apartments: Studios to 3 bedroom • Restaurant, Coffee Shop, Waterside Bistro. Water’s edge Business district Gymnasium Reliable wifi *Limit 500 mb per day • • • • Conference facilities - New 250 pax room + smaller Excellent security Attentive Service • • • HONIARA
WHEN ONLY THE BEST WILL DO - Telephone: (677) 24007 Facsimilie: (677) 24010 P.O. Box 1598, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands Email: [email protected] Website: www.heritageparkhotel.com.sb
118 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE special feature BSP backs Solomon Islands David Anderson, Bank South Pacific’s country manager in the Solomon Islands, shares an overview of the country’s economy.
David Anderson … “There is plenty of money around for people to do things.”
he Solomon Islands is a very “There is a lot of economic growth in consequence, people are looking for more liquid economy at the moment,” the Solomon Islands beyond the forests, space to build. notes David Anderson, Bank however, especially in Honiara,” he says. “As soon as a property does come up it “TSouth Pacific’s (BSP) country “The economy in Honiara is fairly strong. is quickly leased. The quality of buildings is manager in the Solomon Islands. There is a lot of construction going on. Some certainly a lot better (than when I was last “There is plenty of money around for people of it is coming from funds from the Chinese living here).” to do things. Officially, there was a 3.2 per and most of the Chinese are investing into Such interest in property bodes well for cent rise in GDP in 2016 and that has been property. the post-logging future, says Anderson. pretty consistent for the last couple of years. “Tourism has a big future for the Solomon “The forecast for 2017 is about 3.3 per cent. Islands. Over recent years, it’s certainly It’s been good, steady growth. BSP is improved. looking to grow here. We have confidence Tourism has a big future “The Western Province is the jewel of the in the country.” country. Unfortunately, a lot of people in Anderson says the Solomon Islands relies for the Solomon Islands. nearby countries, including New Zealand and heavily on logging, which accounts for 60–70 Over recent years, it’s Australia, don’t know that. per cent of its exports. But he believes the certainly improved. “The Solomon Islands just has to keep government has to plan for the logging to moving forward (on tourism) and come to eventually cease. an arrangement with people in New Zealand, “In 1996, when I was working in the Australia and elsewhere to try and sell the country previously for Westpac, the general country better.” expectation was for logging to end in BSP purchased the National Bank of the approximately five years. “The return on it here can be very good; in Solomon Islands 10 years ago this year. “In 2013, when I came back, people were some cases, between eight and 12 per cent. Anderson says BSP is now the largest still saying another five years. And there’s not much empty commercial or bank in the Solomon Islands. The bank has “When will it end? I don’t know. However, industrial property in Honiara. eight branches around the country—four in contacts in the logging industry expect it to “If you drive from Henderson Airport into Honiara and four in the provinces. last longer than five years.” Honiara, there is hardly a vacant commercial With 260 staff, it has a loan book of around Anderson says there may be plenty of space anywhere. There is a lot of building $SBD930 million and has over $SBD2 billion trees left in the Solomon Islands, but the going on.” in deposits. n environmental pressures grow stronger Anderson says a lot of the industrial —GREG CLARKE every year. land in Honiara is just about built out. As a
July – August 2017 119 SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE special feature
REVIEW: HERITAGE PARK HOTEL heritageparkhotel.com.sb +677 24007
LOCATION FOOD AND DRINK This waterfront hotel is 12 kilometres from There are three eateries. The fine dining Honiara International Airport, close to the restaurant is in a part of the governor general’s city’s main port and yacht club. The hotel is in former residence. The resplendent and aged Honiara’s small CBD and is just a short walk to timber floors remain. The restaurant – it a market, bank and shops. serves Solomon Island dishes, Indian, Western THE PLACE and Italian (pizza) – is known locally as GG’s, but more formally as The Renaissance On a verdant site that was once home to the Restaurant. country’s governor general, the Heritage Park Hotel is one of just five premier hotels in the A buffet breakfast is served from 7–10am, city. Despite being part of the CBD, the hotel lunch from 11am–3pm and dinner from impeccably clean and perfectly cool – the tiled was quiet during the nights I stayed. Hotel 6–10.30pm. Splash is the poolside bar/cafe, floors helped in this regard. The hot water can guests come for the cleanliness and safety The Terrace is a coffee shop. A nightclub is take a while to come through in the shower. aspects, according to the manager. open until 2am. Room service is 24 hours. William and Kate stayed in room 312. There ROOMS were no complaints from them about the hot —GREG CLARKE There are four styles. My room was water.
120 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE special feature
WHO STAYS? Mostly business travellers. Wi-Fi in rooms/public areas: WHAT GUESTS LIKE The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge I visited the hotel as a prospective site for TV: (William and Kate) stayed in 2013. our annual business conference. The hotel Air conditioning in room: is a fantastic location for a conference or a HOW BIG? 66 keys (39 hotel rooms and getaway. The staff are beyond hospitable, 27 apartments). Ceiling fan in room: nothing is too much trouble. The resort has COST Standard rooms from $S1980 Business centre: a very tropical oasis feel with the most (about PGK800); suites from $S3025 (about incredible view from the pool bar, perfect Gym: PGK1230). The executive and deluxe rooms for a sunset dinner and cocktail. I can’t wait fall between the two price ranges. Room service: to get back to Heritage Park Hotel for our conference. – TripAdvisor CHECK IN and out 1pm/12pm Swimming pool: Modern, good quality room fittings. By HIGHLIGHTS Every room has a water Free airport transfers: view with a private balcony. There is also far the best hotel in the Solomons. Staff a swimming pool, five conference rooms Hotel arranges tours: always helpful. Free Wi-Fi which actually worked well! – Bookings.com for groups between 10 and 250, three Breakfast included in room charge: restaurants and beautiful gardens and lawns. The hotel overall was nice, the staff in the NEARBY The National Museum is a few restaurant were lovely, the rooms were minutes’ walk from the hotel. clean and the sea view rooms had a great view – TripAdvisor
RED SEA HOUSING SERVICES is a leading manufacturer of modular buildings to the resource industry, government sector and private developers in over 65 countries.
Let our team of experts assist you with all your accommodation and services solutions for commercial and residential applications including: - Offices - Gymnasiums - Kitchen Diner Facilities - General Construction - Ablutions - Guard Houses - Commercial Accommodation - Utility Services - Laundries - Affordable Housing - Fire and Acoustic Buildings - Medical Clinics - Churches - Recreation Facilities - Water Treatment Solutions - Laboratories - Classrooms - Hotels and Lodgings - Turnkey Camp Solutions - Refurbishment Works
RED SEA HOUSING SERVICES welcomes all CONTACT US OR VISIT OUR DISPLAY AT: Air Niugini customers to Papua New Guinea! Red Sea Housing Services Baruni Road, Port Moresby 7674 5515 [email protected] www.redseahousing.com
July – August 2017 121 SOLOMON ISLANDS BUSINESS GUIDE special feature
1 J u ly Travellers’ tips 2017
Visas Car hire Health reputation. If you are after great coffee and comfort food, the Free visas valid for 90 days Avis and Economy Car Rentals It is advisable to take anti-malarial Breakwater Cafe and Lime Lounge are issued on arrival for have a good variety of vehicles tablets, even if just visiting are popular expat hang-outs in most nationalities, including in Honiara. See avis.com.sb and Honiara. Consult your doctor the centre of town. The Bamboo Commonwealth, US and European economycarrentals.com.sb. before departure about malaria Cafe, run by and directly next visitors. To ensure the visa is Car hire and drivers can also be but also tetanus and vaccination door to the King Solomon Hotel, issued, visitors should have return booked via travel agencies such for hepatitis A and B. A typhoid is another good option. or onward tickets. as Guadalcanal Travel Services. booster is also recommended. Climate International/ See solomontravel.info. Accommodation Business etiquette Warm and humid, with coastal domestic flights The Heritage Park Hotel (see our day temperatures averaging International flights land at Meetings can seem informal – review on page 120) is popular 28°C. May to November tends Honiara’s Henderson Airport. Air jackets and ties aren’t necessary, with business travellers and has to be drier. Niugini flies from Port Moresby though a degree of flexibility a swimming pool and conference Time zone to Honiara four times weekly. is. ‘Island time’ can mean rooms. See heritageparkhotel. some people don’t show for com.sb. The five-star Coral Sea See airniugini.com.pg. Solomon 11 hours ahead of GMT. Airlines flies throughout the appointments or, conversely, Resort & Casino opened this country. The domestic terminal is meetings can be arranged at short year. See coral-sea-resort.com. Electricity two kilometres from Henderson. notice. The Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel, next door to the Solomon 240V AC 50Hz, using Australian- A shuttle bus connects the BUSINESS HOURS style plugs. airports and costs $SBD35 each Island Visitor Bureau office, has way. See sightseesolomons.com. Banking hours are 8.30am or a business centre and conference ENTERTAINMENT 9am to 3pm, Monday to Friday. rooms. Currency Commercial hours tend to be from Away from the larger hotels, Restaurants many call into the Point Cruz One Solomon Islands dollar (SBD) 7.30am to midday and 1pm to 4pm, Monday to Friday, and also The Heritage Park Hotel and the Yacht Club for a beer after work. is worth around 0.41 kina and Visitors can sign in. The Honiara 0.13 USD. There are ATMs in Saturday mornings. Government Coral Sea Resort have upmarket offices open from 8am to midday restaurants. At the Heritage, Golf Club, just out of town, is the international airport and in also popular. Honiara’s small CBD. and from 1pm to 4.30pm, Monday guests dine in part of the governor to Friday. general’s former residence. media Getting around Safety Haydn’s Steakhouse at the Honiara Coral Sea Resort has modern The Solomon Star The Regional Assistance Mission Australian and European cuisine. (solomonstarnews.com) and Central Honiara is 12 kilometres to the Solomon Islands (RAMSI) There is also a restaurant, The the Island Sun are the local from the international airport. has brought stability to the Boardwalk, featuring South-East daily newspapers. The Solomon A taxi from the airport to the CBD country following 2003’s social Asian street food at Coral Sea. Times Online (solomontimes.com) costs around $SBD200. Major unrest. RAMSI is to withdraw in There are also several options is the other local main news hotels can organise transfers. The the middle of 2017. Throughout away from the hotels. Sea King source. n country’s official tourism site is a the Solomons it is safe to walk is the best-known of the crop of good place for travel information. around during the day; however, Chinese restaurants. Taj Mahal See visitsolomons.com.sb. as for anywhere in the world, (Sri Lankan and Indian), just caution should be a priority across the road from the Heritage at night. Park Hotel, has a very good
122 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine So Solomons, So Different !
Where the Pacific Freedom was Won. Join Us, 75 Years later, as we Celebrate the Commemoration of the Pacific War in August 2017. Explore the hidden paradise of the South Paciic archipelago comprising of a vast group of 992 breathtaking tropical islands. Experiencing the seemingly untouched hidden paradise and experience the authenticity of our rustics natural beauty and enjoy your own piece of paradise - snorkel, sh, dive, kayak or simply relax and own your space of your time together in one of our tiny little islands that is yet to discover
FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau PO Box 321, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands Call (677) 22442 or email [email protected] www.visitsolomons.com.sb www.facebook.com/VisitSolomon Islands Brain gym quiz, puzzles, crossword DoubleTake Red Herrings Tackle either set of these clues – you can even mix and match them, because the solutions are Fill in the gaps with letters to find the names of the same for both sets. eight capital cities. Only eight? Ye s, two of the examples are red herrings and won’t produce anything but frustration. All the answers have eight letters.
CRYPTIC CLUES DOWN STRAIGHT CLUES DOWN 1. Mongrel can be a bad- 1. Produce hybrid (10) ACROSS tempered kind of animal (10) ACROSS 2. Everest tackler (11) 1. Pity about the direction finder I 2. More than just a social climber 1. Sympathy (10) 3. Respected (7) had on (10) (11) 6. Musical genius (7) 4. Hospital clinic visitors (11) 6. Mae, sort out the great 3. Looked up to public notice, 7. Ten Commandments mountain 5. Chess and Ludo (5,5) conductor! (7) covered in mud (7) (5) 8. Asinine (7) 7. Ian is returning to Egyptian 4. They are treated as casualties Red 9. Dental Herr wireings (5) 036 desert (5) (11) ©10. Lo Determinedvatts Puzzles age of (fossil) (5) 9. Pair in second-rate contest (5) 5. Monopoly, etc the result of 11. Aida or Tosca (5) 10. Went out with old hat (5) 12. Become more balanced (4,3) company directors’ antics (5,5) SOLUTION: 11. Everyone taking part in it has 13. Puts to air (10) 8. Stupid dictator Amin had Helsinki, Damascus, Brasilia, New Delhi, RED to sing (5) nothing but a facial twitch (7) HERRING, Budapest, Santiago, Brussels, Canberra, 12. Remove bumps from uniform? Unacceptable! (4,3) RED HERRING. 13. Wide throws in TV transmissions (10)
124 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine brain gym puzzles
The Paradise Quiz HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION?
1. Where in PNG will you see the Frangipani Festival? 11. Where do you find Komodo dragons? 2. What is the capital of Oro Province? 12. Where in China will Air Niugini start flying to later this year? 3. Which animal features most prominently on PNG’s 20 kina note? 13. The list of world table tennis champions is dominated by China. How many points does a player have to reach to win a single game? 4. What is one-hundredth of a kina? 14. The Chinese president was one of the first major leaders to confirm 5. What is ‘Buk bilong Pikinini’? his attendance at APEC in PNG next year. What is his name? 6. Guam is a territory of which country? 15. Where are you if you are standing in this hotel lobby (pictured)? 7. Which national flag is red and white, and has stars and a crescent moon? 8. Who, or what, was Fighting Harada? 9. Which South-East Asian fruit, known for its pungent smell, is nicknamed the ‘king of fruits’? 10. What is the most popular sport in Fiji?
Sudoku Fill the grid so that every column, every row and every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. Rating:
July – August 2017 125 Fill in the gaps with letters to find the names of eight capital cities. Only eight? Ye s, two of the examples are red herrings and won’t produce anything but frustration. All the answers have eight letters.
brain gym solutions
RedSolutions Herrings 036 © Lovatts Puzzles
SOLUTION:Red Herrings Helsinki, Damascus, Brasilia, New Delhi, RED HERRING, Budapest, Santiago, Brussels, Canberra, RED HERRING.
The Paradise Quiz 1. Rabaul. The festival is on September 15 to 17 this year and celebrates the rebirth of Rabaul after the 1994 volcanic eruptions. 2. Pompondetta. 3. Pig. 4. A toea. 5. An organisation that aims to increase literacy rates of children in PNG. 6. US. 7. Singapore’s. 8. A former world boxing champion from Japan. 9. The durian. 10. Rugby Union. 11. The big lizards live on several Indonesian islands. 12. Shanghai. 13. 11 points, or by at least a two-point margin. 14. Xi Jinping. 15. At the Stanley Hotel, Port Moresby.
126 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
Arrivals Lounge Papua New Guinea visitor guide Out and about A quick guide to Papua New Guinea, from catching a taxi to making a phone call. CLIMATE to eat. If you’re after fine dining, With the exception of the Highlands, Bacchus is the place to go. For PNG has a warm tropical climate. something more casual, go The wet season in Port Moresby is poolside, where Deli KC’s serves from December to April. antipasto, salads, sandwiches, milkshakes, espresso and a COMMUNICATIONS limited Italian menu for dinner. Internet: Web access in Port The Poolside Bar should not be Moresby has improved immensely missed for its garlic prawns. The in recent years. Although it remains Vue Restaurant, which has a buffet costly, all the Port Moresby hotels each morning and evening, as well listed in this guide provide a fast- as an a la carte menu, has stunning speed internet service. In other views. This is also the place for urban centres, you may still be PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND traditional rectangular, wood-fired relying on dial-up. For those staying Italian pizza. See airways.com.pg. Car hire: Deal with one of the evacuation alone can reach longer, wireless internet, via a international names and ask them $US30,000). Visitors should also Aviat Club: The club is open USB modem, is available, although to provide a driver (around PGK400 note that malaria is prevalent in for breakfast, lunch and dinner. download speeds can vary. per day). With the poor state of PNG and there have been cases Home-style meals include stir- Phone: International mobile roads, especially in Lae, 4WDs/ of measles and tuberculosis in fries, toasted sandwiches and phone roaming is possible in PNG SUVs are recommended. some parts of the country. salt-and-pepper prawns. This is but it is costly. A cheaper option a great spot to sit at lunchtime Airport transfers: For arrival/ is to buy a local SIM card and MONEY under the shady mango trees, departure in Port Moresby, any of pre-paid credit (including data PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). or in the air-conditioned bar. the hotels listed in this guide will packs for smartphones). ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) See facebook.com/pages/Aviat- provide a complimentary transfer. have branches at Port Moresby’s Club/141553252563094. It is much cheaper to make international airport. ATMs are Domestic flights: Travelling Cafe on the Edge: There are good international calls from PNG than located around Port Moresby, within PNG often means taking hamburgers here and breakfast vice versa. Lae and other urban centres. an internal flight (for instance, options such as eggs benedict, Complimentary Wi-Fi is becoming you cannot drive between Port SAFETY avocado and crispy bacon. The more common at hotels, and Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini servings are generous. Located is also available at Jacksons offers passengers the chance to While the situation is not as bad as portrayed by some international under the residential buildings at International Airport. book (and check in) online but Harbour City, behind the ANZ and make sure you print out a copy of media, you should always take ELECTRICITY precautions, especially at night. BSP banks. See facebook.com/ your receipt to show at the check- edgebythesea/. The current in PNG is 240V AC in counter. Aircraft and helicopter TIME ZONE 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs. charter services are available for Crowne Plaza Hotel: There are PNG has a single time zone, travel to remote locations. multiple eating options at Crowne. GETTING AROUND 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT. The in-house restaurant includes As a general rule in PNG, you need HEALTH a buffet for breakfast (eggs to plan your travel carefully. EATING, DRINKING, Serious medical conditions SOCIALISING IN PORT cooked to order), as well as lunch Taxis: Recommended firms are typically require treatment and dinner. It’s one of the few Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet outside the country. Travellers MORESBY restaurants in Port Moresby with (7220 7000). should ensure they have adequate Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s gluten-free choices. The hotel health cover (the cost of medical ritziest hotel has several places also has fine dining at the ➤
128 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE
Rapala restaurant, where the from China, Thailand and Vietnam. restaurant choices, including Ela Beach Hotel and steaks and garlic prawns are Takeaway available. the fine-dining Silver Leaf on the Apartments: On the fringe of the impressive. Old-fashioned crepes 17th floor, and the chic tapas- CDB, this constantly expanding Grand Papuan Brasserie: suzette makes an appearance here, style Monsoon Lounge, which is hotel/apartment complex is part The funky Grand Papua Hotel too, and is cooked at your table. great for after-work drinks on the of the Coral Sea Hotels group. Its bar serves up cocktails and has leather-lounge seating. The casual main eatery is popular at lunchtime. Daikoku: The extensive Japanese a decent wine list, along with Green Haus restaurant has all-day See coralseahotels.com.pg. menu has teppanyaki, donburi some tasty tapas-style bar food. dining, including buffet dinners bowls and a large range of sushi. Grab a seat in one of the huge, Gateway Hotel: Another with live cooking stations. See Tucked away above the SVS black leather chairs or head to member of Coral Sea Hotels, thestanleypng.com. shopping centre in Harbour City, the Brasserie, which has a nightly this time located next to the chefs will whip up your meal at buffet. The a la carte menu is Tasty Bites: An Indian restaurant airport. A range of amenities your table. The teppanyaki menu good and the steaks are delicious. tucked away in the town centre in include Port Moresby’s largest includes several courses, so come See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. Hunter Street near Crowne Plaza. dedicated meeting space. See with an empty stomach. See You won’t get a table unless you coralseahotels.com.pg. Lamana Hotel: You’re spoilt for daikokupng.com. book. Tel. +675 321 2222. choice here with three restaurants Grand Papua: This premium Duffy Cafe, Gabaka Street: (Spices, The Italian, and Rio’s at Vision City: PNG’s first major hotel opened in late 2011 and This has rapidly become popular the Temple), Cafe Palazzo, Lanes shopping mall houses an features 156 suite rooms (short among the expat community, with Ten Pin Bowling, and PNG’s biggest increasing array of eateries. The and long stay), an executive floor, excellent coffee and homemade nightclub, The Gold Club. See cavernous Dynasty (Chinese) and gym and conference facilities. The cafe-style food. See facebook. lamanahotelpng.com. the Ten (Japanese) are stand- separate restaurant and bar areas com/duffypng. outs. See visioncity.com.pg. are popular venues for business Royal Papua Yacht Club: meetings in town. Centrally Dynasty at Vision City: This Relaxed, spacious and open to non- PORT MORESBY HOTELS located. See grandpapuahotel. may be the biggest restaurant members. Comfort food, draught Airways Hotel: Airways is com.pg. Tel. +675 304 0000. in Port Moresby. Its size, its beer and an open-plan bar area located within a large, secure chandeliers and its gold decor showing sport on large screens. If compound next to Jacksons Holiday Inn: Located in the make it a favourite for balls, it’s too busy, try the Aviat Club in International Airport. An inspiring government district of Waigani. dinners and parties. The menu is nearby Konedobu. See rpyc.com.pg. setting, luxurious rooms, excellent Large grounds with walking huge, too, with pages of Asian track, in a tropical garden setting. Seoul House: This restaurant service and very good food dishes. Don’t miss yum cha on Outdoor restaurant dining and bar specialises in Korean and Thai food, options. See airways.com.pg. Sundays. See facebook.com/ area, business centre and gym. cooked on the hot plate right in Tel. +675 324 5200. pages/Dynasty-Restaurant-Vision- Included the three-star Holiday Inn front of you. Seoul House is tucked City/148278471918956. Crowne Plaza: Upmarket rooms Express hotel. See ihg.com. Tel. away in a garden oasis compound and suites in the heart of the CBD. +675 303 2000. Fusion: This is one of the newer in Five Mile. Tel. +675 325 2231. Decent gym, business centre, restaurants in the city and always Laguna Hotel: The 60-room Stanley Hotel and Suites: This undercover parking, thriving café seems to be doing great business. property is a five-minute drive new hotel in Waigani has several and Mediterranean restaurant. It’s Asian with a fusion of flavours Tel. +675 309 3329. from the heart of Port Moresby ➤
130 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE
and features a lagoon-style pool, Serves good coffee, milkshakes, Serves pub-style food including Lae International: The city’s free airport transfers, free sandwiches, cakes and salads. burgers, steaks and pizza, which premier hotel has recently Wi-Fi and free buffet breakfast. Tel. +675 7217 1966. goes down a treat with the renovated rooms, full bar service, See lagunahotelpng.com. surrounding views of the Huon conference and banquet halls, a Golden Aviat: A good option for Tel. +675 323 9333. Gulf. See laeyachtclub.com.pg. gym and pool. See laeinterhotel. Chinese, located on Huon Road in Tel. +675 472 4091. com. Tel. +675 472 2000. Lamana Hotel: In Waigani, the Eriku. Open for lunch and dinner hotel has 24-hour free airport and yum cha on Sundays. Tel. Mountain View Restaurant: Lae Travellers Inn: An transfers, free in-room Wi-Fi, +675 472 0486. One of Lae’s newest restaurants affordable option, offering clean a conference centre, restaurants, is at the Crossroads Hotel at Nine and comfortable rooms. Just a Huon Club: A private members’ and the famous Gold Club. Mile. Open for breakfast, lunch and few minutes from the centre of club, offering air-conditioned See lamanahotel.com.pg. dinner, be sure to try the Japanese town, the inn also has conference facilities, comfortable lounge chairs, Tel. +675 323 2333. fusion menu – it’s the only place facilities and a small restaurant an expansive deck overlooking the in town where you can get good serving Western and Indian Stanley Hotel and Suites: Port Lae Golf Club, a fully stocked bar sushi. See hornibrook.com.pg/ cuisine. Tel. +675 479 0411. Moresby’s newest hotel (opened and Foxtel connection to preview crossroads/. Tel. +675 475 1124. in July, 2016) is a luxurious 429- all the racing and sporting events. For general information room property in Waigani, close to Tel. +675 7347 1058. LAE HOTELS about Lae, see lcci.org.pg government offices and embassies. and rainylae.com. Lae International Hotel: Home to It has 95 long-stay apartments, Crossroads Hotel: A 45-room three restaurants – Luluai’s Italian gym, pool, cafe, restaurants facility at Nine Mile. The hotel has Free Wi-Fi Pizza, Vanda, and Kokomo, which and an executive lounge. a Japanese-themed teppanyaki all serve an array of international at airport Connected to Vision City Mega restaurant with Asian/Western and Western cuisine, including Mall. See thestanleypng.com. fusion menus, full bar service, a Domestic and international Indian and seafood buffets. The Tel. + 675 302 8888. well-equipped gym, Wi-Fi and passengers at Port Moresby’s Sportsman’s Bar (aka Jack’s Bar) complimentary transport transfers airport can connect to free Wi-Fi. EATING, DRINKING, is also a good place for a nightcap, both to Lae City and Nadzab SOCIALISING IN LAE or two. See laeinterhotel.com. Tel. Airport. See hornibrook.com.pg/ HELPFUL WEBSITES +675 472 7000. crossroads/. Tel. +675 475 1124. Air Niugini, airniugini.com.pg Bunga Raya Restaurant: A local Lae Golf Club: Whether it’s after Business Advantage PNG, favourite, serving Malaysian-style Lae City Hotel: One of the a round of golf or just an excuse to newest hotels in town, offering businessadvantagepng.com n Chinese. Located next door to the catch up with friends, the club is Lae Golf Club. Be sure to try the a 24-hour concierge service. excellent for a few sundowners as Located in the main Top Town stuffed lettuce cups, laksa and you overlook the stunning green. claypot tofu. Tel. +675 472 7177 area, it also has an excellent cafe Tel. +675 472 1363. and restaurant with Western and Chigi’s Cafe: A delightful place Lae Yacht Club: The perfect Asian cuisine. See laecityhotel. inside the temporary Brian Bell place for late-afternoon beers, com. Tel. +675 472 0138. store near the Lae main markets. or just as nice for a relaxing lunch.
132 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine JOIN US AT PORT MORESBY’S PREMIERE DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT DESTINATION
STEAK - SEAFOOD - SALAD
All kinds of goodness... for the whole family! Modern, stylish surroundings, great ambience and a great choice of dining styles from the grill to buffet, salad bars and gourmet stone-fired pizza - fine food to dine in or take away, Gateway Hotel is the food and entertainment destination for Port Moresby. Open Daily for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Bookings: 327 8100 | coralseahotels.com.pg arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE
TWO-MINUTE GUIDE TO TOK PISIN WORDS/PHRASES Papua New Guinea has more How much is this? One beer, please. Restaurant than 800 languages, but the Dispela em hamas? Wanpela bia plis. Ples bilong kaikai three official languages are Tok Thank you very much. Why? Bilong wanem? Goodbye Gutbai Pisin, English and Motu. Here, we Tenkiu tru. outline some Tok Pisin, which is How many children do you Hello Halo the largest lingua franca of PNG. You understand English? have? Yu gat hamaspla Water Wara Yu save long tok Inglis? pikinini? Where do I find a taxi? Baggage Kago Bai mi painim taxi long we? Where is my bag? Where are you from? Bag bilong mi istap we? Yu bilong wanem hap? Airport Ples balus One coffee with milk, please. Place Ples Wanpela kap kopi wantaim Where can I change my I don’t know. Mi no save. milk plis. money? What do you want? Fish Pis Wanem hap bai mi ken Yu laikim wanem samting? Where is the toilet? senisim moni bilong mi? Toilet istap we?
Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Wan Tu Tri Foa Faiv Sikis Seven Et Nain Ten
134 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE
Gerehu Port Moresby University of Papua New Guinea Morata Eight Mile Port Moresby Nature Park To Bomana War Cemetery W a Waigani To Motukea Island, the ig a PNG LNG plant and Ensisi n i Royal Napa Napa Refinery D r Port Moresby y w H Golf Club y ra National ur M t Museum er b u Parliament H Laguna Hotel Kumul Flyover PNG Erima Vision City Stanley Hotel Sir John Guise Stadium Lamana Hotel Jacksons Port City Hall International Moresby Holiday Inn Air Niugini Haus Airport W Gateway Hotel a ig a n Gordons i D Six Mile Airways r Hotel d Hanuabada R Saraga 0 100 Km en rd Ga Port Moresby Harbour g in Harbour City pr Hohola S Four Mile W Konedobu a Royal Papua rd s Yacht Club Sir Hubert Murray Rd Stadium Ta ur Boroko Taurama Aquatic am a Murray Rd ert Hwy Centre Harbourside ub H Port Moresby Crowne Plaza Badili Korobosea General Hospital Grand Papua Hotel Ela Beach Hotel Koki Town Two Mile Walter Bay Sabama 0 Km 1 Gabutu
July – August 2017 135 arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE
Papua New Guinea University of Technology LAE Taraka
To Nadzab Airport, 42 kilometres
Crossroads Hotel Omili H d ig R h bu la m n Bu ds H w y Malahang Industrial Centre
I n H Bumneng d o e u p n e R n d d e n c Bugandi e H Golf Course Eriku D ig r r h D l e a Milford Haven Rd n c d n s Huon Club e H Bum d w b n u R e y ive p Botanical r e H d o n Gardens u I n
R d Dowsett War Cemetery Showgrounds Butibum Hotel Morobe
Sandpiper Rd 0 Km 1 PNG Lae d Lae City R n Lae Angau e v Lae City a Hospital China Town H Hotel d M r Lae International o a f l rk i Markets ha Hotel M m
Rd Lae International Melanesian Hotel Rd Hospital Butibam 0 100 Km t lia S no ag M Voco Lae Yacht Club Point Lae Port Huon Gulf
136 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine
Welcome aboard
Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet
Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.
Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.
Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.
The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 Welcome aboard
Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet
Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.
Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.
Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.
The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 In-flight entertainment
Movie, TV and music highlights available on Air Niugini flights
Movies
Kong: Skull Island Table 19 Hidden Figures Live by Night Genre: Action, Adventure, Fantasy Genre: Comedy, Romance Genre: Drama, History Genre: Crime, Drama, Thriller Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Rating: R Stars: Tom Hiddleston, Samuel L. Jackson, Stars: Anna Kendrick, Lisa Kudrow, Stars: Taraji P. Henson, Octavia Spencer, Stars: Ben Affleck, Elle Fanning, Brendan Brie Larson Craig Robinson Janelle Monae Gleeson A diverse team of scientists, soldiers and adven- Ex-maid of honour Eloise decides to attend her This drama recounts the vital history of an elite Taking fatherly advice is not in Joe Coughlin’s turers unites to explore a mythical, uncharted oldest friend’s wedding. She is seated at dreaded team of black female mathematicians at NASA nature. Instead, the World War 1 vet is a island in the Pacific, as dangerous as it is beautiful. table 19 with a group of strangers, but as their who helped win the all-out space race against self-proclaimed anti-establishment outlaw, Cut off from everything they know, the team secrets are revealed, Eloise learns that friend- America’s rivals in the Soviet Union and, at the despite being the son of the Boston police deputy ventures into the domain of the mighty Kong, ignit- ships – and even a little romance – can happen same time, sent the quest for equal rights and superintendent. ing the ultimate battle between man and nature. under the most unlikely circumstances. opportunity rocketing forwards.
Logan Lego Batman Movie The Intern Dear Zindagi Genre: Action, Drama, Sci-Fi Genre: Family, Animation Genre: Comedy, Drama Genre: Drama Rating: R Rating: PG Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Stars: Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart, Stars: Will Arnett, Michael Cera, Rosario Stars: Robert De Niro, Anne Hathaway, Stars: Alia Bhatt, Shah Rukh Khan, Kunal Kapoor Dafne Keen Dawson Rene Russo Kaira is an up-and-coming cinematographer who In the near future, a weary Logan cares for an Big changes are brewing in Gotham. If Batman Ben Whittaker is a 70-year-old widower who has is discontented with her life. She then meets Dr ailing Professor X in a hideout on the Mexican wants to save the city from The Joker’s hostile discovered that retirement isn’t all it’s cracked up Jehangir, a free-spirited psychologist who helps border. But Logan’s attempts to hide from the takeover, he may have to drop the lone vigilante to be. Seizing an opportunity to get back in the her to gain a new perspective. world and his legacy are upended when a young thing, try to work with others and maybe, just game, he becomes a senior intern at an online mutant arrives, pursued by dark forces. maybe, learn to lighten up. fashion site, founded and run by Jules Ostin.
Sarbjit Honnouji Hotel Railroad Tigers Must Be Love Genre: Drama Genre: Comedy, Sci-Fi Genre: Action, Comedy Genre: Romance, Comedy Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Stars: Aishwarya R. Bachchan, Randeep Hooda, Stars: Haruka Ayase, Shinichi Tsutsumi, Stars: Jackie Chan, Z. Tao, Wang Kai Stars: Kathryn Bernardo, Daniel Padilla Richa Chadha Gaku Hamada With his knowledge of the Chinese rail network, Patricia, better known as ‘Patchot’, starts falling Sarbjit is a farmer living a content life in a small On a whim, Mayuko Kuramoto checks into the railroad employee Ma Yuen leads a team of in love with her childhood best friend, Ivan, who village with his family. An unwitting foray into nostalgic ‘Honnouji Hotel’, which is tucked away fighters to derail the Japanese war effort. only sees her as a friend. Problems arise when foreign land leads him to his capture by the on the backstreets of Kyoto. Little does she know another girl enters Ivan’s life. Unfortunately for authorities there and thrown into prison, who that the hotel serves as a mysterious portal into Patchot, it’s her cousin Angel. convict him of espionage. His sister fights for his feudal-era Japan. She finds herself transported freedom for 23 years to prove his innocence. to 1582, the Sengoku Period. TV
Great Railway Journeys of Travels with the Bondi Vet Big Bang Theory Blindspot Europe Genre: Documentary, Travel Genre: Comedy Genre: Drama, Crime Genre: Documentary, Travel Episode: S2 E4 – Great Barrier Reef Episode: S10 E14 – The Emotion Detection Episode: S2 E13 – Name Not One Man Episode: Vienna to Trieste Rating: PG Automation Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Stars: Chris Brown Rating: PG13 Stars: Sullivan Stapleton, Jaimie Alexander, Stars: Julian Davidson Brown explores Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Stars: Johnny Galecki, Jim Parsons, Kaley Cuoco Rob Brown The episode features sea-walking, skydiving, Hopping onto one of Austria’s advanced Railjet Sheldon beta tests an MIT invention that helps The team gets a major break in the Sandstorm coral and turtles. passenger trains, which follows the most impor- him read people’s emotions. Meanwhile, case when it discovers Shepherd’s true identity tant trade route in the old empire, Julian Davison Raj invites his ex-girlfriends over to give him ... and a decade-old connection between her is whisked high into the Alps. dating advice. and Weller.
Bones Lethal Weapon Powerless The Flintstones Genre: Drama, Crime Genre: Drama, Crime, Action Genre: Comedy Genre: Family, Animation Episode: S11 E4 – The Carpals in the Coy-Wolves Episode: S1 E14 – The Murtaugh File Episode: S1 E4 – Emily Dates a Henchman Episode: S1 E4 – No Help Needed Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Rating: G Stars: Emily Deschanel, David Boreanaz, Stars: Damon Wayans, Clayne Crawford, Stars: Vanessa Hudgens, Danny Pudi, Stars: Alan Reed, Mel Blanc, Jean Vander Pyl Michaela Conlin Keesha Sharp Christina Kirk After causing Barney to get fired, Fred helps him When remains of real estate agent Justin Ross A brutal car crash reveals that Cahill is the After being urged by her team, Emily sets her land a job as a furniture repossessor. However, are found in the forest and appear to have been target of a murderous stalker, causing Riggs and sights on the dating world but unknowingly falls Barney’s first assignment is to repossess Fred’s destroyed by coyote-wolf hybrids, Brennan enlists Murtaugh to turn the tables and start asking her for one of the Riddler’s henchmen. television set. the help of a fellow brilliant forensic anthropolo- questions for a change. gist, Dr Beth Mayer, to assist in the investigation. Music
The Chainsmokers Amy Shark John Mayer Harry Styles Bob Dylan Thierry Escaich Memories … Do Not Night Thinker EP The Search For Harry Styles Triplicate Baroque Song Open Genre: Pop Rating: PG Everything Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Golden Hits Rating: PG Genre: Classical Rating: G Genre: Pop Rating: PG The debut EP for Gold Coast Genre: Easy Listening Rating: PG The One Direction star Dylan’s third album of covers Thierry Escaich performs some The debut album from the musician Amy Shark, Night Soulful, guitar-lead rock from launches his solo career with of classic American standards, of the greatest Baroque works. hit-making EDM duo features Thinker features the new the American singer-song- a fantastic album featuring the all except one of which was an impressive line-up of guest single ‘Weekends’, which was writer. Now on his seventh global hit Sign Of The Times. previously recorded by Frank artists, such as Coldplay and produced by Dann Hume (Matt studio album, The Search for Sinatra. The two men had Jhene Aiko. Corby, Daniel Johns, Courtney Everything sees Mayer reflect little in common vocally, so the Barnett). on getting older. songs are given a new lease of life by Dylan’s enigmatic drawl.
TOKYO
SHANGHAI
HONG KONG NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS MANILA GUAM CEBU CHUUK MAJURO PACIFIC PALAU OCEAN KUALA LUMPUR POHNPEI TARAWA
SINGAPORE PORT TUVALU JAKARTA MORESBY DILI BALI HONIARA APIA PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI TOWNSVILLE NOUMÉA INDIAN OCEAN BRISBANE
SYDNEY AUCKLAND
INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP
Air Niugini International Offices
Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567
Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Los Angeles Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services PNG Tourism Phonpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 Tel: (1) 949 752 5440 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 Fax: (1) 949 4716 3741 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected] TOKYO
SHANGHAI
HONG KONG NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS MANILA GUAM CEBU CHUUK MAJURO PACIFIC PALAU OCEAN KUALA LUMPUR POHNPEI TARAWA
SINGAPORE PORT TUVALU JAKARTA MORESBY DILI BALI HONIARA APIA PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI TOWNSVILLE NOUMÉA INDIAN OCEAN BRISBANE
SYDNEY AUCKLAND
INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP
Air Niugini International Offices
Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567
Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Los Angeles Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services PNG Tourism Phonpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 Tel: (1) 949 752 5440 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 Fax: (1) 949 4716 3741 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected]