Rabbit Sauce Piquant, Tuna Ceviche Tostadas, Bourbon Bread Pudding, and 26 other recipes to make this fall The
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36 SAVEUR.COM enslaved West Africans and brought them to the West Indies to work sugar and co ee plantations. Slavery was abolished in Guadeloupe for good in 1848, and the danquite, made from few ingredients and easy to prepare, became the sustenance of the recently emancipated. Eventually stu ed with salt cod and later fi lled like a sandwich, this fried dough evolved into today’s bokit. “Bokit was poor folks’ food, made from cheap ingredients,” says David Drumeaux, the charismatic chef-owner of Bokit Delux. The casual spot, established in 2018, sits near the old section of Pointe-à- Pitre, across the street from Drumeaux’s music club, 1973 Food & Sound. The two restaurants—and their shared outdoor pavilion, sandwiched between build- ing exteriors painted with giant murals of Guadeloupean men and women—have turned the block into a vibrant pocket amid an often-dusty historical city. Why open a second restaurant while still plenty busy with the fi rst? Drumeaux, who studied at Alain Ducasse’s École Ducasse in France, puts it thusly: “Our McDonald’s started selling a version of the traditional Guadeloupean burger, the agoulou. They called it the McGoulou. I did not want to see that happen to bokit.” Drumeaux fills his version the traditional way, with salt cod, though his salt cod is more like a bright fish salad with fresh herbs, crunchy sweet peppers, onion, and a squeeze of lime juice. The most popular option on the menu, how- The Soul of Guadeloupe ever, is pork that’s been stewed in a mixture of soy sauce, mustard, and lime juice for several hours before meeting up in a Sandwich with a slaw of julienned cabbage, carrots, Pointe-à-Pitre chef David Drumeaux shares how he prepares the and winter squash, slices of zucchini, and archipelago’s signature bokit, from bread to fillings to relish. a drizzle of the local cane syrup, sirop de By Jessica B. Harris batterie. When paired with that bread, the rich, shredded meat and toppings are nothing short of transcendent. Once a month, area chefs are invited but also chicken and pork. Toppings too, to craft their own take on the sandwich iconic street food—that inexpensive, including lettuce, tomato, and hot- pepper at Bokit Delux. Chef Arthur Karioua of highly portable bite capable of telegraph- sauce. The main attraction, however, Pointe-à-Pitre’s La Porte des Indes, or the ing its geographical culinary identity to remains that perfectly crisp, pillowy Indian Door , recently contributed a bokit the rest of the world. The United States is envelope, reminiscent of the American stuffed with potatoes, peas, beans, and '580($8; known for hot dogs; Vietnam, banh mi. In South’s yeast roll, had said roll’s dough cabbage, fl avored with garam masala and Guadeloupe, the bokit (pronounced “BO- been deep-fried instead of baked. turmeric, and topped with a mint sauce. '$9,' keet,” not “bo-KIT”) sandwich speaks Versions of this bread—some yeasted, “Bokit is the Proustian madeleine of volumes about the French-Caribbean some incorporating cornmeal—are prev- Guadeloupe,” Drumeaux reflects. “It is archipelago’s complicated history with alent throughout the Caribbean, called the food of grandmothers and aunties,
&2857(6< slavery and colonialism. djoncakes in Dominica, yaniqueques and everyone here has a memory of To call this wonder a sandwich would in the Dominican Republic, and dump- it. This staple of our culture deserves be to seriously undersell its bread. Yes, lings in Jamaica. Their predecessor, the to be celebrated.”
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