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APRIL 2016 | Our 37th Year andrewharper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

HOTEL DISCOVERIES, GOLDEN PAGODAS, TROPICAL BEACHES COVER PHOTOGRAPH The serene pool at Belmond Governor’s Residence in / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

The Changing Face of THIS MONTH yanmar was isolated from the on travel itineraries. The number of A New Era Begins rest of the world for nearly half American visitors is increasing rapidly. From Yangon, we traveled north to Bagan, M a century. When I first visited Of course, the experience of a land Mandalay and the Himalayan foothills, before the country in the 1980s, tourists could frozen in amber is a big part of Myanmar’s relaxing beside the Andaman Sea...... 1-7 obtain a visa for a maximum of seven days, appeal. Yangon bears little resemblance Yangon’s Colonial Heritage ...... 3 and tour groups were shadowed, fairly to modern Asian cities like Bangkok, Myanmar’s Ethnic Mosaic...... 4 blatantly, by the secret police. A paranoid or Hong Kong. The grand brick What’s in a Name? ...... 6 military junta governed the country from buildings of its colonial heart remain Ayeyarwady Riverboats ...... 7 1962 until 2011, when strongman Gen. largely untouched and gently decaying.  Online: Touring Itinerary, Shwedagon Pagoda, Than Shwe finally stepped down in favor Seen from a boat on the Yangon River Inle Lake and Bookshelf of a milder-mannered former general, the most prominent landmark remains Thein Sein, to clear a path to some form the golden spire of the Shwedagon, an Bordeaux Openings of civilian government. ancient pagoda that is a focus for both Two small independent provide fine new Last year, Aung San Suu Kyi duly national identity and Buddhist devotion. choices for visitors to this gracious city...... 8-10 won an electoral landslide. At the time A country that has remained substan- Les Sources de Caudalie Update ...... 9 of writing, a full political settlement has tially unchanged since the 1960s may Favorite Restaurants ...... 11 yet to be agreed, but many sanctions be romantic, but there are obvious Wine Bars ...... 11 have been lifted, and President Barack downsides. The purpose of my recent Find video and more photographs of our trips Obama and then-Secretary of State trip was to see whether Myanmar’s new at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report Hillary Clinton have included Myanmar economic and political circumstances

Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Exterior and our bedroom at Belmond Governor’s Residence Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

The Governor’s Residence is a refuge from the city, a place to “ recuperate from a long flight or to unwind at the end of a demanding tour. have yet resulted in improved logistics renovation and has since found favor The Strand has been restored rather and expanded opportunities for Ameri- with diplomats and businesspeople, as than converted, so there is no pool, no gym can travelers. well as leisure travelers nostalgic for the and only a small Spa Suite. Aside from Burma of Kipling. The atrium lobby, with nostalgic appeal, the ’s chief merit is its columns, rattan furniture, ceiling fans its location at the colonial heart of Yangon. Yangon and inlaid marble floors, is extremely However, it is important to understand y journey began at an old haunt, atmospheric. And the adjoining Strand that the setting is uncompromisingly M The Strand, a 31-suite hotel, built in Bar, with its teak panels, brass fixtures urban. There are no gardens to provide 1901. It reopened in 1993 after a complete and billiards table, remains a favorite of a buffer between the hotel and the city; expatriates, especially during happy hour the view of the Yangon River is blocked on Friday evenings. (The famous house by warehouses lining the waterfront, and BHUTAN cocktail, the “Strand Sour,” is a concoc- the property faces a multi-lane highway. PUTAO tion of Mandalay rum, lime and bitters.) Three miles to the northwest, in the After a friendly check-in, we were green and tranquil Embassy District,

a d y R . escorted upstairs and introduced to our the Belmond Governor’s Residence

SH a r w e y personal butler. Our Executive Suite was provides a complete contrast. Its main A y relatively austere, with cream walls, a building is a 1920s teak mansion with polished teak floor, teak headboard, and a wraparound porch, surrounded by

ANGLADE MYANMAR B framed floral prints. Tall windows looked gardens and accessible by a covered MANDALAY across a quiet street to a sidewallHONG of the KONG walkway across a lotus pond. The hotel BAGAN Bay Inle Lake AustralianVIETNAM Embassy. Modernity had is a refuge, a place to recuperate from of LAOS arrived in the form of air-conditioning, a long flight or to unwind at the end of a B engal PACIFIC NAYPYIDAW slow Wi-Fi, an adequate cell phone connec- demanding tour. Ceiling fans whir in shad- OCEAN NGAPALI tion and an iPhone dock.HAINAN The marble bath owy lounges and the peace is disturbed ISLAND was sufficiently spacious, but the lighting only by an occasional splash as a guest YANGON was subdued, while the water that initially takes a dip in the lovely fan-shaped pool. flowed into the tub was a sinister shade of The 49 accommodations occupy brown. (It ran clear after a while.) four newer buildings, set amid gardens Overall, we were content. True, we behind the mansion itself. The rooms tend Andaman noticed one or two signs of peeling paint to be rather dark, but all are elegantly Sea — I have learned recently that The StrandS outhfurnished in a traditional style and come MYEIK willCAMBODIA close from May to November this yearChina with teak floors and expanses of Burmese Sea MYEIK for refurbishment — and the housekeep- silk. Baths provide twin sinks, walk-in ARCHIPELAGO S R H ing staff had an annoying habit of leaving showers and excellentPHILIPPINE lighting. EvenS the ANDAMAN 4 AND NICOBAR the door to their storage cupboard wide Wi-Fi works unexpectedly well. ISLANDS Gulf of open, treating us to a view of cleaning The main Mandalay Restaurant serves 0275 MI Thailand products, but in general the atmosphere Burmese cuisine plus familiar interna- PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER 0 275 KM PHUKET was calm and dignified. tional dishes. Although the quality of

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016

MALAYSIA BRUNEI

MALAYSIA

23 24 SINGAPORE BINTAN ISLAND

SUMATRA BORNEO

2.5 HR

S JAKARTA INDONESIA

MOYO JAVA BOROBUDUR ISLAND 25 26 27 BALI A NEW GUINEA

APU

P Our room at Bagan Lodge Infinity pool at Aureum Palace / ALL TOP PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

the food was high and the staff proved Ayeyarwady River. Bagan had about ARCHITECTURE extremely polite and friendly, the service 200,000 inhabitants and 10,000 Buddhist during our stay was exasperatingly slow at temples before its destruction at the hands Colonial Heritage times. Otherwise, the hotel’s chief amenity of the Mongol Kublai Khan in the late 13th is The Governor’s Oasis spa. century. Its wooden structures disap- SOME ASIAN CITIES have chosen to preserve peared, but many of the brick pagodas the buildings erected during their colonial yanmar is a large country that survived. Today, around 2,200 remain, periods. These are viewed as remnants of a long- M extends about 1,250 miles from the surrounded by quiet fields. vanished era, aspects of history that can now Himalayas to the tropical Myeik Archipel- Three local properties are sufficiently be appreciated for their architectural quality or ago along the western coast of the Malay comfortable for Harper subscribers. utility. Elsewhere there is little or no reverence for Peninsula. Much of it is extremely remote The Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary the past, and Victorian structures are routinely and receives few, if any, visitors. For now Resort has well-tended grounds that torn down to make way for undistinguished most travelers follow a fairly predictable slope down to the Ayeyarwady, a large concrete towers. Yangon now has this choice itinerary. Nearly all the roads are poor, open-air swimming pool and a spa. Most to make. The city was planned by the British in 1852, and its colonial core is virtually as it was and the main railway line from Yangon of the accommodations do not make the at independence in 1948, with an array of grand to Mandalay is ill maintained. Until such cut. The furnishings are simple and the brick buildings laid out in a grid, some relatively time as the infrastructure is radically baths are old-fashioned. However, the well-preserved, some in fairly advanced stages of improved, the only practical way to travel eight suites within villas close to the river decay. Pressure for rapid development is intense. around is by plane. are worthy of serious consideration. These The Yangon Heritage Trust was established in Twenty years ago, Burmese aviation are spacious and tranquil, with expanses 2012 by Harvard-educated architect Dr. Thant had a notorious reputation and barely a of teak, local artwork and modern baths. Myint-U. It is involved in urban heritage planning monsoon season passed without one of The most obviously luxurious of as well as specific conservation projects. The the elderly Fokker turboprops operated Bagan’s hotels is the Aureum Palace. Set YHT organizes daily walking tours of downtown by the state-run airline disappearing amid 27 acres of landscaped gardens, it Yangon, which I strongly recommend; many of abruptly from radar screens. Happily, comprises a series of traditional buildings, them start at the YHT’s office on lower Pansodan Street. yangonheritagetrust.org there are now several private airlines, including a spectacular lobby pavilion

with modern ATR 72 turboprops and with a steeply pitched roof. A sizable Repurposed colonial building, Yangon Airbus A320 jets. Although the equipment pool comes with a backdrop of ancient is new, air travel still has two principal pagodas. The Villa accommodations drawbacks: The planes are usually full are extremely attractive. The lake-view (with little room for hand baggage) and Jasmine Villas, for example, come with there are no Business Class seats. Jacuzzi tubs and private terraces over- looking the serene waters of a small lake. At times the Aureum Palace feels like Bagan a property more suited to upscale tour ur uneventful flight to Bagan lasted groups than individual travelers, but it is O80 minutes, and for much of the way certainly a comfortable and convenient PHOTOS BYwe ANDREW flew HARPER north, parallel to the 1,350-mile base from which to explore. PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Panorama of Bagan, seen from the 11th-century Shwesandaw Pagoda View from Executive Suite at Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel

CULTURE On this trip I had opted to stay at sounds more appealing, Bagan Lodge Bagan Lodge, a property of 82 villa rooms should be your choice. Myanmar’s Mosaic and four suites that opened in late 2013. The one activity at Bagan that every- The property made an uninspiring first one tells you not to miss is the dawn flight impression, thanks to an entrance set by hot air balloon, so we duly rose at 5 a.m. MYANMAR HAS NO FEWER than 135 ethnic groups, grouped into eight “major national surprisingly close to the edge of a dusty and made our way through the blackness races.” The Bamar, from whom the country’s road. Once inside, however, we discovered to the waiting bus. Alas, although the former name, Burma, is derived, account a striking open-air lobby, a pleasant bar starry sky was clear, the winds at altitude for about 70 percent of the total population. and an attractive restaurant, all over- were too strong for safety and air traffic The Bamar live predominantly in the central looking a 65-foot swimming pool. The controllers forbade us to take off. Ayeyarwady River Valley. Their distant origin is accommodations are contained within We did manage to explore the archae- revealed by Burmese, the national language, a series of brick bungalows, shaded by ological preservation zone by car and on which is closely related to Tibetan. When Gen. stylish tented roofs, which are spread foot. (If you are feeling energetic, you may Ne Win seized power in a 1962 coup d’état, he across peaceful and extensive grounds. wish to rent bicycles.) A knowledgeable tore up the post-independence Constitution and Pathways meander among flowerbeds private guide is crucial for this, as there tried to impose the will of the Burmese military bright with tropical flowers. Although are dozens of major monuments, many and its extreme socialist ideology on the coun- Bagan Lodge is quite a sizable resort, it of them linked only by obscure tracks. try’s disparate peoples. As a result, elements of the Shan, the Kayin and the Kachin have been at doesn’t feel like one. Given the increasing number of visitors, war with the central government ever since, with Our air-conditioned Villa Room had it is advisable to stipulate that you prefer sizable areas of the north and east still under wooden floors, rattan furniture and a to see quieter, more remote pagodas, and rebel control. The harmonious coexistence of well-appointed bath that was sufficiently to visit the best-known ones outside of the Myanmar’s ethnic groups, within some form of spacious for a couple to coexist in comfort. peak times, which are just after dawn and federal system, is a crucial priority for the new French doors opened onto a veranda before sunset. administration of Aung San Suu Kyi. with two loungers. Although this lacked privacy, it proved to be a pleasant place Women of the Lisu hill tribe in traditional dress to relax with a book, lulled by the trickle Mandalay of a nearby fountain. We didn’t bother to iverboats generally take five days to watch television, but we did check email R sail upriver from Bagan to Manda- and the Wi-Fi worked without a hitch. lay, but the flight lasts just 25 minutes. During our stay we enjoyed well- Mandalay is Myanmar’s second city, prepared Asian food, served by consis- with a population of about 1.3 million. tently friendly and obliging staff, and one In the 19th century it was the seat of the afternoon we spent a pleasant interlude last rulers of independent Burma, King in the spa. If you are likely to prefer a Mindon and King Thibaw. Alas, their full-service resort with imposing archi- great palace, enclosed by a huge moat tecture and a memorable setting, opt for and immense walls, was destroyed by the Aureum Palace. On the other hand, bombing during World War II. Almost none if a peaceful, low-key boutique property of the original structures survived and LISU: © TOPTEN22PHOTO/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK TOPTEN22PHOTO/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK © LISU:

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016 Our cottage and the main lounge deck at Malikha Lodge / ALL TOP PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

the site is like a vast empty square at the impressed both by the dramatic lobby foot Hkakabo Razi, the highest mountain heart of the city. with its massive gilded columns and the in Southeast Asia. Although Mandalay itself is a sprawl- charm and efficiency of the reception The objective of our journey was ing and dusty place, it stands amid the staff. After check-in, we were taken on a Malikha Lodge, an eco-resort perched remnants of four royal capitals spanning tour. At the rear of the main hotel building on a forested hillside above the Nam Long 500 years of Burmese history. And despite are extensive grounds, including tennis River, and designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, being a commercial city, with strong courts, a spa and a splendid swimming an architect who has worked on no fewer links to the southern Chinese province pool, surrounded by teak pavilions in than seven Aman resorts. The main lodge of Yunnan, it is also a center of Buddhist imitation of the old palace architecture. building proved to be an expansive open- studies, with numerous monasteries and We were immediately struck by the feel- plan space, with a steeply pitched roof, a pagodas scattered across Mandalay Hill ing of calm and space. central bar, a fire pit and walls lined with and nearby Sagaing Hill on the opposite Only the higher categories of rooms artifacts made by the Lisu and Rawang bank of the Ayeyarwady. and suites should be considered. We had tribal peoples. A wall of glass doors opened In an attempt to find a hideaway of opted for an Executive Suite, with wooden onto an outdoor deck, with a second fire some kind, I had chosen to stay initially floors, gilded furniture, a richly patterned pit, built-in sofas and a spellbinding view at Hotel by the Red Canal, a 25-room Chinese carpet, a scarlet sofa and framed upriver toward the mountains. Alas, the property close to Mandalay Palace. embroidery. The separate bedroom had day of our arrival was cloudy, so no peaks Unfortunately, it did not live up to expec- paneled walls and fabrics in muted shades were visible. (The best months for a visit tations. Although the public areas are of burgundy and gold. The adjoining bath are November and February; December quite attractive, with expanses of natural was modern, spacious and well-appointed, and January are usually clear, but the wood and local artwork, our room and and a small balcony afforded a spectacu- nights are often cold. The monsoon season bath were both too small for comfort; lar view of Mandalay Hill. begins in May.) the Wi-Fi was painfully slow and unreli- Although the Mandalay Hill Resort is Guests at Malikha Lodge are housed able; and the restaurant served almost not typical of the hotels that I generally within individual cottages, surrounded by exclusively Indian cuisine. The staff were recommend, it provides an acceptable- private gardens and sheltered by bamboo friendly and the gardens were pretty, but base from which to tour. trees. The interior design is as striking the kidney-shaped pool was cramped. In as might be expected from an architect addition, the surrounding area struck me of international renown. Its focal point is as scruffy and unappealing. Putao a huge teak tub, about four feet in diam- An alternative is provided by the ince 1962, parts of northern and eter. Nearby is a woodburning stove. A 206-room Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel. S eastern Myanmar have been under king-size bed, backed by a headboard Although this is an eight-story property, the effective control of rebel groups and covered with ethnic fabrics, takes up popular with businesspeople as well off-limits to the Burmese army, never one side of the space, while opposite are as tourists, it has much to recommend mind foreign visitors. However, I did two wooden sinks and a walk-in shower. it, including proximity to the Buddhist make one foray from the beaten tourist Outside we discovered a peaceful terrace sites of Mandalay Hill, and spectacular path into a remote area of Kachin State. with a daybed, plus a small private pavil- views of monasteries and pagodas from Ninety minutes by plane from Mandalay, ion overlooking the river. Aesthetically, the higher floors. On arrival, we were the town of Putao is within sight of 19,300- our cottage was a triumph. In practice, it

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Unspoiled beach and our bedroom at Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER What’s in a Name?

BURMA BECAME MYANMAR in 1989, and the change has been controversial ever since. Many governments — including that of the United States — refused to acknowledge the right of the military junta to make such a decision. The year before had seen thousands of pro-democracy protesters killed when a popular uprising was crushed. Since the political thaw in 2011, atti- tudes have softened. The military regime said the name changes were intended to erase surviving traces of colonialism. But the country had had a formal literary name (Myanma) and a popular had drawbacks. The spectacular tub was local technology is too basic to permit colloquial one (Bama) long before the British settled for a version of the latter. Apparently, so large that the hot water ran out when credit card transactions. It is important many of the new English-language names bear a it was only half full, and the stove was to realize that this is a stylish mountain closer resemblance to the Burmese pronuncia- woefully inadequate to heat the cottage lodge, but not a sophisticated eco-resort tion. However, it would appear that the junta was on a chilly January night. of an international caliber. motivated at least in part by a desire to stamp its Other aspects of the resort were more authority on the country. satisfactory. The Burmese set dinner menu was excellent. On our first evening Ngapali HOTELS AT A GLANCE we enjoyed an extensive variety of soups, ne remote region of Myanmar that curries and salads, all accompanied by Ois certain to see a rapid increase in The Strand A90 Burmese red wine — a shiraz-tempra- foreign visitors is the Myeik Archipelago LIKE Atmospheric public areas; obliging staff; conve- nillo from the Red Mountain Estate in in the far south. For now, however, the best nient location for sightseeing in the colonial district. the eastern Shan State — which proved place to relax on the beach is Ngapali, on DISLIKE Our poorly lit bath; proximity to busy road. GOOD TO KNOW Yangon’s best-known restaurant, unexpectedly good. And outdoor activities the country’s west coast. Monsoon, is a short walk away. were organized with exemplary profes- It is an hour’s flight from Yangon to Superior Suite, $400; Deluxe Suite, $450. 92 Strand sionalism by two expatriate Nepalis. Thandwe. Apparently there are plans to Road, Yangon. Tel. (95) 1-243-377. hotelthestrand.com Most guests at Malikha Lodge take a expand the airport to allow international Belmond gentle rafting trip on the river and hike flights and large jets, but for now it is Governor’s Residence A93 through the picturesque countryside. suitable only for turboprop aircraft. As LIKE The gracious colonial main hotel building; Many disagreeable aspects of the modern a result the nearby coastline remains exceptionally peaceful gardens. world have yet to reach Putao, so village unspoiled and the hotels are mostly DISLIKE Some rooms can be dark; slow service in the restaurants. compounds are free of plastic garbage and low-rise and hidden among the palms. GOOD TO KNOW Room 111 is generally considered the houses are still constructed chiefly The drive to Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa the best in the hotel, with windows on two sides and from bamboo. Those inclined to be more took just 20 minutes, along a quiet road, a lovely view over the pool and gardens. Deluxe Garden View Room, $600; Junior Suite, $780. adventurous can embark on longer treks, past small shops, casual restaurants and 35 Taw Win Road, Dagon Township, Yangon. or explore the region by mountain bike. modest village houses. Tel. (95) 1-229-860. governorsresidence.com Perhaps because our expectations Our self-contained thatched villa was had been too high, we were slightly exceptionally spacious and elegant, with Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa A92 disappointed by Malikha Lodge. For a 20-foot ceiling, magnificent wooden LIKE Exceptionally spacious and stylish villas; the magnificent beach; the tranquil atmosphere. three days we were unable to get a Wi-Fi floors and stylish teak furniture, including DISLIKE The main swimming pool is poorly situated connection, and on departure we found a huge, irresistible daybed. Contempo- and lacks a view of the sea. ourselves obliged to pay with cash as the rary Burmese paintings and traditional GOOD TO KNOW Boat trips take guests to offshore islands for secluded beaches and superior snorkeling. Deluxe Sea View Villa, $350; Deluxe Beachfront Villa, $420. Seafood spring rolls and coconut-based desserts at Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Myapyin Village, Ngapali, Thandwe. Tel. (95) 4-342-301. ngapalibay.com

preceding a rating, denotes an officially A recommended hotel. The following were not up to my standards; more information is available online. Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort, Bagan (87) Aureum Palace, Bagan (89) Bagan Lodge, Bagan (89) Hotel by the Red Canal, Mandalay (86) Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel, Mandalay (89) Malikha Lodge, Putao (88)

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016 Buddhist sculptures helped to create a strong sense of place. One wall was almost entirely glass, and huge windows granted Ayeyarwady Riverboats views of a long beach of pale golden Sanctuary Ananda / © KEN HAYDEN PHOTOGRAPHY/SANCTUARY RETREATS sand. The enormous adjoining bath was appointed with twin copper sinks, a walk- iven Myanmar’s poor transport infrastructure, one of the most pleasant and in shower and a huge teak tub. The only rewarding ways to see the country is aboard a luxury riverboat. This has been discordant note was the outdoor shower, Ga favorite trip of Hideaway Report readers for many years. Aside from the which for some extraordinary reason reliable level of comfort, the leading riverboats provide well-organized excursions to contained a protruding air-conditioning pagodas, monasteries and culturally significant sites, allowing passengers to experi- unit. Some villas have private pools; ours ence relatively remote and unspoiled areas of the country that would otherwise be did not, but we scarcely felt deprived, inaccessible. Of course, just watching the life of the river from the observation deck not least because the warm, clear sea is endlessly diverting. The usual journey on the Ayeyarwady River takes four days/ was just steps away. (The main hotel three nights to travel the 128 nautical miles downstream from Mandalay to Bagan, pool is pretty, but poorly situated amid or five days/four nights to sail upstream from Bagan to Mandalay. TheBelmond vegetation and hence lacking a view of Road to Mandalay regularly plies this route, accommodating up to 82 guests in the ocean.) Even the Wi-Fi functioned either “State” or slightly smaller “Deluxe” cabins, both with en suite baths. Ameni- without a hitch. ties include a fine-dining A short walk away, the Tamarind restaurant, a more casual Deck of the R.V. Strand / © THANAPORN LABOUP restaurant has a glorious outdoor terrace, bar/grill, a small swim- where we would sit for hours, gazing at ming pool and a fitness the glinting water. As might be expected, center and spa. This year the menu specializes in seafood. The a new boat came into other chief amenity at the resort is the service, operated by The Frangipani Spa. Strand hotel in Yangon. Myanmar is obviously at a time The R.V. Strand accom- of transition and the future is hard to modates 54 passengers in discern. I suspect that Ngapali’s days as a four categories of cabins refuge from the world may be numbered, and suites. All come and Bagan will soon be overrun with visi- with full-length sliding tors, much like Angkor Wat in Cambodia. windows, Juliet balconies But new destinations will emerge, because and butler service. For Myanmar’s potential is immense. For now, those who wish to follow This year a new boat came into service, the best hotels tend to be comfortable a more adventurous itin- operated by The Strand hotel in Yangon. rather than exceptional, and I strongly erary, or simply to spend “ recommend that any itinerary should longer on the river, I recommend two other vessels. The Belmond Orcaella takes still find space for a riverboat trip on up to 50 passengers on nine-day cruises from Yangon to Bagan, 12-day journeys the Ayeyarwady. I left Myanmar with my on the Ayeyarwady as far north as Bhamo in Kachin State (about 40 miles from the affection for its inhabitants increased. border with China), and 13-day trips on the Chindwin River, the main tributary of the Few countries possess such attractive, Ayeyarwady (with which it merges south of Mandalay). An alternative is provided easy-going and hospitable people. We can by the stylish and intimate Sanctuary Ananda, which has 20 spacious suites, all only hope that the miseries of military with balconies. Cruises include a 12-day journey from Yangon to Mandalay, an rule are finally at an end. H 11-day trip on the Chindwin and a 12-day exploration of the upper Ayeyarwady. H

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 PARIS NEW BOUTIQUE HOTELS AND STELLAR CUISINE The Sophisticated Pleasures of Bordeaux

Twilight at Place de la Bourse

he French call Bordeaux “the pearl of the Aquitaine,” and few places in the Currently three hours from Paris by train, world enjoy a more accurate sobriquet than this elegant city on the Garonne Bordeaux will be just two hours away with TRiver in southwestern . Arguably the capital of the global wine trade, a new TGV (high-speed train) route that Bordeaux hosts the world’s most prestigious annual wine fair, Vinexpo, and has an is scheduled to open in 2017. annual regional turnover from the wine business of nearly $16 billion. For a city that hosts a stream of The city has recently re-emerged from a 20-year renovation of the majestic international wine buyers, Bordeaux has 18th-century limestone buildings that compose its core. These include the Place long had a curiously undistinguished de la Bourse — the former stock exchange designed by King Louis XV’s architect, roster of hotels. The InterContinental Ange-Jacques Gabriel — the opera house and long stretches of neoclassical façades. Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel — where British three-star chef Gordon Ramsay has been appointed to oversee Le Pressoir Gironde d’Argent restaurant — is still the best Estuary COGNAC FRANCE full-service property, but the city has 0 40 MI Bay MIRAMBEAU lacked the small charming hotels that are 0 40 KM of PAUILLAC 6 commonly found in other major French cities. This has begun to change. Biscay 5 4 BORDEAUX 1 SAINT-EMILION inemaker Bernard Magrez, who 2 Wowns four Grands Crus Classés D o r PLACE DE LA BOURSE: © EOMAYA/123RF d o g n e R . châteaux in the Bordelais (plus vineyards MARTILLAC G a r

o n n e R . all over the world), located the six-room La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez hotel in a residential neighborhood AQUITAINE because he wanted to create a showcase 1 La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez for the distinctive Bordeaux lifestyle and 3 Yndo¯ Hôtel Intercontinental Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel* also to open a restaurant in cooperation EUGENIE-LES-BAINS 2 Les Sources de Caudalie* with chef Joël Robuchon, a friend. So 3 Les Prés d’Eugénie* he acquired a handsome but rundown 4 L’Hostellerie de Plaisance* 18th-century mansion across the street 5 Château Cordeillan-Bages* from his Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez, 6 Château de Mirambeau* where his superb collection of contem- * Previously Recommended porary art and photography is open to

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016

ANDORRA

France National Capitals Cities 250,000-899,999 International Boundaries Major Rivers 0210 0 40 Miles Cities 75,000-249,999 Adminastrative Boundaries Intermediate Rivers Administrative Capitals Cities 25,000-74,999 Cities 0-24,999 Highways Lakes Cities 3,000,000+ Primary Roads 0210 0 40 KM Cities 900,000-2,999,999 Minor Primary Roads Local Primary Roads Entrance, Contemplation Suite and Restaurant Joël Robuchon at La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez the public. Interior designer Frédérique Fournier has given the hotel an elegant Napoleon III-style décor, with a specific nod to the year 1855, when the Bordeaux Grand Cru wines were first classified. On arrival, the property seemed more like a guesthouse than a hotel. Following a cool greeting from the young woman at the reception desk, we carried our own bags upstairs. Our room was immediately appealing, however, with its high ceiling, floral-pattern carpet and silk taffeta fabrics from the eminent French textile house Braquenié. Well-lit and sufficiently spacious, it came equipped with a writing desk and an illy coffee machine. The bath provided Hermès toiletries — including colognes for men and women — a heated limestone floor, double vanities and a separate rainfall shower. Perhaps the chief advantage of a stay at La Grande Maison is the oppor- tunity to eat in Robuchon’s outstanding restaurant downstairs without being mindful of an after-dinner drive or fretting about a taxi. After a flute of Champagne in the bar, we were ushered to our table in one of the three elegant dining rooms, decorated with a Baccarat crystal chandelier and furnished with

wood-framed armchairs at tables set LA GRANDE MAISON: © DEEPIX

BORDELAIS CLASSIC UPDATE We began with an elegant dish of crab aspic and a Exciting News from a Preferred Spa Retreat “ medallion of crab meat, topped with caviar from the Sologne ne of my favorite country escapes from Bordeaux remains Les Sources de region of France. O Caudalie, located on the Château Smith Haut Lafitte wine estate 20 minutes south of the city. This stylish spa hotel specializes in treatments with Caudalie with heavy white tablecloths, silver and products, which are derived from grapes and grape-seed oil. La Grand’Vigne, the crystal. That evening, the majority of the hotel’s gastronomic restaurant, recently won a second Michelin star. In 2014, guests were French-speaking, and several the property opened 12 new suites with a rustic-chic style inspired by the oyster of the well-dressed diners appeared fishermen’s huts at nearby Cap Ferret, plus a new indoor pool and a wine bar, to be wine merchants. Rouge, that serves many of the estate’s best wines by the glass. L’Ile aux Oiseaux, The best way to appreciate Robuchon’s the hotel’s most romantic suite, has also been redecorated by designer Delphine talent is to try one of the tasting menus. We Manivet, a well-known Parisian wedding-dress designer. H began with an elegant dish of crab aspic Le Village des Pêcheurs (Fishermen’s Village) and indoor pool at Les Sources de Caudalie and a medallion of crab meat, topped with caviar from the Sologne region of France. Next came a choice of four trios of tasting plates, which featured miniature versions of some of Robuchon’s most famous dishes. For example, one sampler included a single truffled langoustine with green cabbage; a scallop with an herbal jus, olive oil and squid’s ink farfalle pasta; and a tiny goat-cheese- DECK: © GUILLAUME DE LAUBIER; POOL: © RODOLPHE CELLIER POOL: LAUBIER; © GUILLAUME DE © DECK:

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 flavored soufflé with truffle cream. The d’Alos, the best fromager in Bordeaux, Service throughout was gracious, precise main course was a chateaubriand of and the menu concluded with four small and noticeably formal. beef topped with a large lobe of duck desserts, including a caramel soufflé with Ultimately, La Grande Maison is a foie gras — a riff on tournedos Rossini citrus-fruit sorbet. An à la carte menu pleasant and sophisticated small hotel — that was carved tableside and served is also available with many dishes for eminently suitable for a short visit to with a reduction of Port, Robuchon’s two, including roasted guinea hen and Bordeaux, so long as you don’t mind famous pommes soufflés, or fine slices a veal chop, both of which are carved the less-than-central location and don’t of deep-fried potatoes blown up like tableside. A predictably outstanding wine require amenities such as a spa or a little pillows. Cheeses came from Jean list features all the Grands Crus Classés. gym. Chatting with several hotel guests over a Cognac in the bar after dinner, we Exterior, lounge and So Chic Suite at Yndo¯ Hôtel discovered that the hotel has become a popular weekend getaway for couples from London and , so it is advisable to book both your room and dinner as far in advance as possible.

he other new small independent T hotel in Bordeaux is the 12-room Yndō Hôtel, set within a 19th-century townhouse at the heart of the city. The property offers a variety of amenities rarely found in hotels of this size, includ- ing 24-hour room service and air-condi- tioning. The project of seasoned hotelier Agnès Guiot du Doignon, this beautifully renovated property is a fine choice for fans of contemporary design, since the rooms come with furniture from Edra and are accessorized with Louis Poulsen lamps and modern Murano chandeliers by Vistosi. The contrasts between the care- fully restored 19th-century paneling and the modern décor are flawlessly executed. Among the five room categories, I recommend the So Chic Suites. Ours was supremely comfortable and came with a king-size bed, two velvet tub chairs, a Lavazza coffee machine and an iPad.

The project of seasoned hotelier Agnès Guiot du Doignon, SUITE AND LOUNGE: © PIERRE CARTON “ this beautifully renovated HOTELS AT A GLANCE property is a fine choice for fans of contemporary design. La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez A94 LIKE Comfortable and beautifully decorated rooms; superb restaurant. DISLIKE The slightly chilly style of hos- A spacious white-marble bath provided pitality; the €10 parking fee, which seemed cheeseparing given stiff room rates and the difficulty of finding parking elsewhere. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel can arrange wine tastings and tours of Bernard Magrez’s châteaux; Bulgari amenities and separate tub and see luxurywineexperience.com for more information. Superior Room, $450; Prestige Room, $590. 10 Rue Labottière, shower. Light meals are served upon Bordeaux. Tel. (33) 5-35-38-16-16. lagrandemaison-bordeaux.com request, and wine tastings can be orga- nized. Service at the Yndō proved charm- Yndo¯ Hôtel A93 ing and perfectly bilingual throughout. LIKE The fine location, excellent service, interesting décor and valet parking. DISLIKE Room rates are hefty for a French provincial city. GOOD TO KNOW The Jardin Public, a 10-minute walk from the hotel, is a lovely spot In short, both La Grande Maison for a walk or a run. Crazy Room, $500; So Chic Suite, $670. 108 Rue Abbé de l’Épée, Bordeaux. Tel. (33) 5-56-23-88-88. and Yndō are excellent new options for yndohotelbordeaux.fr travelers who prefer distinctive hideaway preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit andrewharper.com for additional information on hotels with an abundance of individual A these and our six additional recommendations in the Bordeaux region. character. H

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016 LANDSCAPE Chef Philippe Etchebest at La Quatrième Mur / © CYRIL BERNARD Le Wine Bar Restaurants and Bistros Wine Bars

he toughest reservation in Bordeaux right now is La Grande Maison de Bernard DESPITE ITS STATUS as one of the world’s Magrez’s Restaurant Joël Robuchon, which was recently awarded a second great wine capitals — the Bordelais would say T Michelin star. Chef Philippe Etchebest’s new brasserie, Le Quatrième Mur, near their city is the great wine capital — wine bars the Opéra National de Bordeaux, also is extremely popular, as is Le Pressoir d’Argent, have only recently become popular in Bordeaux. Happily, now it’s possible to sample some really Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant at the InterContinental Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel. excellent wines by the glass at a number of stylish What has really changed in Bordeaux, however, is the number of excellent bistros and hospitable places. Perhaps the most eagerly that have opened. This is explained by the fact that young chefs are attracted to the awaited debut of the year will be at the dramati- city by its quality of life, and a new generation of wine merchants now dine out more cally designed La Cité du Vin (laciteduvin.com), often than they eat or entertain at home. a multimedia exposition center devoted to the history, geography, geology and art of wine that Miles This stylish bistro in the heart of the city is run by a quartet of chefs from is scheduled to open in June. , New Caledonia, and France who met at the Ferrandi cooking school in Paris. The menu changes regularly but runs to dishes such as monkfish with smoked Bar à Vin chestnut purée, pork loin with vanilla-flavored celery root purée and hibiscus roasted Run by the Bordeaux Wine Council, this stylish figs with halva ice cream. 33 Rue du Cancera. Tel. (33) 5-56-81-18-24. restaurantmiles.com wine bar in the heart of the city pours an encyclopedic range of Bordeaux wines and is Garopapilles Chef Tanguy Laviale’s contemporary French menu follows the seasons ideal for either an apéritif or a nightcap. but offers dishes such as a starter of smoked tuna and duck foie gras, and roasted 3 Cours du XXX Juillet. Tel. (33) 5-56-00-43-47. Pauillac lamb. 62 Rue Abbé de l’Epée. Tel. (33) 9-72-45-55-36. garopapilles.com baravin.bordeaux.com

Dan This Asian-inspired restaurant is run by a Franco-Chinese couple who moved Aux Quatre Coins du Vin to Bordeaux after living in Hong Kong for eight years. 6 Rue du Cancera. Tel. (33) 5-40- Popular with a younger crowd, this fashionable 05-76-91. danbordeaux.com stand-up wine bar has a great selection of French and foreign wines, along with open sandwiches Le Quatrième Mur Chef Philippe Etchebest, who cooked for many years at L’Hostellerie and foie gras. Thirty-two wines are offered, and de Plaisance in nearby Saint-Emilion, has a hit on his hands with this contemporary you serve yourself in three different-sized glasses using a magnetic card purchased on arrival. French brasserie near the opera house. It’s difficult to get a reservation, but there’s 8 Rue de la Devise. Tel. (33) 5-57-34-37-29. seating at the bar, which offers a chance to try dishes such as poached egg with celery aux4coinsduvin.com root cream and smoked duck breast, and blanquette de veau with lemongrass. Best for lunch. 2 Place de la Comédie. Tel. (33) 5-56-02-49-70. Le Wine Bar A perfect choice for a light lunch since they Le Bouchon Bordelais Chef Frédéric Vigouroux’s easygoing bistro attracts a serve excellent cheese and charcuterie plates, cosmopolitan crowd with a well-executed menu that runs to dishes such as chilled this friendly place has a spectacular selection of pea and watercress soup, duck confit with eggplant and strawberry mousse.2 Rue Pomerol, Margaux and Sauternes by the glass. Courbin. Tel. (33) 5-56-44-33-00. bouchon-bordelais.com 19 Rue des Bahutiers. Tel. (33) 6-76-00-50-54. lewinebar-bordeaux.com Le Pressoir d’Argent Gordon Ramsay The elegant Napoleon III dining rooms on the first floor of the InterContinental Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel recently reopened Wine More Time with a new chef, Gilad Peled, a young Israeli who previously worked with Gordon The list changes regularly at this popular wine Ramsay in London. Refined dishes such as tartare de boeuf de Bazas with oysters bar in the heart of the city, but grands crus by the and caviar, a starter, and turbot in seaweed butter sauce with razorshell clams make glass are frequently offered at very reasonable prices. 8 Rue Saint-James. Tel. (33) 5-56-52-85-61. good foils for the excellent wine list. Dinner only. 2-5 Place de la Comédie, Tel. (33) winemoretime.blogspot.com 5-57-30-43-42. ghbordeaux.com H

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK

Faces of Myanmar at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER New and Noteworthy In Memoriam IT WAS WITH EXTREME SADNESS that I Aman Onsen Resort learned recently of the death of Sam Beall, the Fifteen months after the debut of the Aman , a second Aman property has proprietor of Blackberry Farm, a distinguished opened in Japan. Amanemu is about 230 miles southwest of the capital on the country house hotel in Tennessee. Beall was picturesque and culturally significant Kii Peninsula. Overlooking a bay devoted to killed in a skiing accident at the age of 39, and he leaves behind a wife and five children. His pearl cultivation, the resort comprises 24 suites and four villas, each with a private parents purchased Blackberry Farm in 1976 and hot-spring pool. This is Aman’s firstonsen , or hot-spring resort. Amanemu is also he took over its management in 2002. In the situated close to one of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines, as well as the Kumano subsequent 14 years, Beall created what is argu- Kodo pilgrimage trails (jointly designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO.) ably the finest hotel of its kind in America. Spells at the California Culinary Academy and The South African Safari Aviation French Laundry inspired his passion for artisanal Travelers to Tswalu Kalahari, the private game reserve and safari lodge owned by the food and heirloom ingredients. This informed Oppenheimer family, will now be able to use the splendid new facilities at Fireblade the delicious “Foothills Cuisine” at Blackberry Aviation, located at Johannesburg’s international airport and owned by E. Oppen- Farm’s restaurant, The Barn. In 2014, Hideaway heimer & Son. These include day bedrooms, a restaurant and a spa. Fireblade also Report subscribers voted Blackberry Farm the offers air charter services, with a fleet of private jets. Of particular interest to safari No. 1 Food and Wine Resort in the United States, and in the most recent update of The Harper travelers, however, is the Pilatus PC-12 NG, a pressurized single-engine aircraft. With Collection I awarded the property a rating of 97. a range of about 1,800 miles and a cruising speed of around 325 mph, it is ideal for The Hideaway Report is not really a place for an transfers between widely spaced safari camps and lodges. obituary, but in these tragic circumstances, I felt that it would be appropriate to express my New Mexico Mansion Restored respect for Sam Beall’s accomplishments and In 1996, Ted Turner purchased the Vermejo Park Ranch in New Mexico — at 590,000 to extend my condolences to the members of acres it is about three-quarters of the size of Rhode Island — which today offers his family. It is they who must now perpetuate fishing, hunting and hiking adventures. The jewel in the crown of Vermejo is Casa his legacy of refined Southern hospitality. Grande, a mansion built in 1909 for a wealthy Chicago grain trader, William Bartlett. In June, Casa Grande will reopen after a four-year, multimillion-dollar renovation. With seven bedrooms — including Turner’s own master suite — and sumptuous April Collection Updates public areas (including a ballroom), it could be ideal for a lavish family get-together Visit andrewharper.com/store/harper-collection/ or a wedding.

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. Our commitment to editorial independence is unwavering. The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Copy Editor Steve Masters Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu