Crooked Lake and the

White Mountain have ofen seen the silvered tops of the hills north of — notably and , and fancied climbing to their glintng summits. I could Iimagine picking my way through a surreal landscape, dwarfed by the scale of the “Like everyone eLse, i enjoy CaMping in the sunshine, paddLing on Mirror LoChs and immense summit boulder felds of Cambrian quartzite blocks that give these hills their distnctve silvery crowns. The Old Norse setlers gave Canisp its wonderful, CLiMbing hiLLs on dry, CLear days. hoWever, to be honest, i Like the tiMes When things tell-it-like-it-is name — The White Mountain. It is rather eclipsed by the more get ChaLLenging just as MuCh – When your range of options begins to diMinish and theatrical Suilven and is thought of as that peak’s plain big sister, but ironically you have to forMuLate a pLan to extriCate yourseLf froM Whatever troubLe you’ve the view from the top is regarded as one of the fnest in . It is relatvely infrequently climbed as it falls short of the magic 3000f, but this is in reality an got yourseLf into. this Was one of those tiMes.” asset because it has allowed the mountain to escape the hordes. There is litle in the way of a path etched by Munroers’ feet. Places without paths have a magnetc Artcle: Graham Warren atracton for us, places where the feeling of exploraton runs strong.

20 | Ceufad Ceufad | 21 up the waves sufciently that we chose the “safe” side of the loch, which had the wind onshore. We looked wistully at the apparent tranquillity on the opposite side — the water is always calmer on the other side of the loch — but experience said that this was, in all likelihood, an illusion. At the far end of the loch, past the island, I could see the terrace ahead, just as I remembered it, the perfect place to camp in an area not oversupplied with suitable sheltered spots, as I found out on my last trip. We landed — the site had everything; nice beach, Congestion at the Ledmore River Gate at Easter fat area of smooth, springy, peggable grass, a bank of glacial debris behind giving complete shelter from the brisk westerly, and no trace of anyone else ever having been there. To top it of, the summit of Canisp was just visible, peeping through a gap in the hills, providing inspiraton for the morrow. What more could you ask of a site? Actually, there was one thing. Bang in the middle of the terrace was a dead deer in the later stages of decompositon, not the ideal campsite companion. Out came a tracking line. Tying the line to one of the deer’s ankles, I dragged it up the hill, far away and above the tent, praying that the thing’s leg wouldn’t come of. The loch fatened out at about 6.30pm, giving a couple of daylight hours of calm water. We were pleased to see the winds following this “summer” patern because of the leeway it would give us for Paddling down Cam Loch The terrace camp on Cam Loch travel if the lochs were rough during the day. It was just as well that we didn’t know that there were only two days of this patern lef. But that night we enjoyed A couple of years ago we did a circular canoe We had a loose plan to paddle to the terrace a glorious view of wild tranquillity. It was so quiet; route in the region, which fnished camp, climb Canisp, then return and explore there were no trees to amplify the breeze, and the by descending the stream entering Cam Loch at some more up the Ledmore River. When I stream entering the loch fows in through deep, silent We aLWays joke that its west end, and so to a fnish at the Ledmore ascended the Ledmore eighteen months ago, meanders. the Wind sees us River Gate. Where the stream entered the loch travelling through to Bonar Bridge, I made a Next morning, a perfect sunlit April day, we ferried we passed a fne potental campsite on a level mental note of the stream coming in from the across the river, ted of the canoe and set of on “CoMing and Likes to terrace, and I thought at the tme that it would right. Always up for a look-see, I thought that this a compass bearing set to intersect the Ledmore- be good to come back here someday and use stream seemed partcularly entcing. It comes path. From this angle Suilven looks like one turn to Meet us. We this as a base to climb Canisp, which is about down from Loch Urigill, through a litle ravine, of the nightmare pinnacles in Victorian paintngs of four miles distant at this point. Canoeing in to and over a couple of waterfalls. We thought we the Alps. You would think it a very formidable climb paddLed here With a climb Scotsh hills gives a wildcountry trip that would ascend this, camp by Loch Urigill and scale if you hadn’t been up it before. Canisp looked much is hard to beat. Meall Coire an Lochain, one of the Cromalt hills. more approachable, but more mysterious because of headWind, WhiCh next It is a shame that most paddlers’ acquaintance From the south-eastern end of Loch Urigill, our its white cap of cloud. There is no real path up Canisp, with Cam Loch is merely a passing one, because it old OS map showed a path running through to just a few short sectons where walkers are focussed Morning had reversed is worth exploring in its own right. The Ledmore Loch Borralan from where we could descend the in by the terrain. You have a wonderful freedom to to give us the saMe Gate Start to the usual Inverpolly trip crosses Ledmore back to the car. However, we couldn’t create your own route. To help us fnd our way back, only a tny corner of the loch before portaging see much evidence of the path on Google Earth, we balanced rocks on boulders in a couple of places. experienCe paddLing the falls down to Loch Veyate, to gain access to although we could see the lines of deer fences, From higher up the ridge we got a great view of our the main Inverpolly playground. which could prove to be unwelcome obstacles. intended route, back across Cam Loch, up the river to baCk. the joke is The name Cam Loch means Crooked Lake and Cam Loch was at its sunny best when we Loch Urigill and across to Loch Borralan. We could also I can’t go there without my imaginaton conjuring arrived and unloaded the canoe of the van. The see our tent, a litle speck just visible on the beach, Wearing a bit thin.” up the somewhat more famous (and more Inverpolly circuit was clearly popular because a now looking very distant. crooked) Crooked Lake on the old Northwest half dozen cars were parked around the Ledmore We have always struggled to understand mountain Company Pigeon River route in Canada. Both River Gate. Afer a short glide down the river, winds. How can the wind nearly blow you over in one lakes sit on intersectons of various canoe routes and across the shallow mouth bar, it wasn’t long open and exposed place yet be dead calm in another, spreading out across the country. From this before we setled into our comfortable paddling seemingly equally exposed spot? We played hide and Scotsh Crooked Lake you can go southwest rhythm and relaxed to watch the scenery rolling seek with the wind all the way up. We had a chocolate to Inverpolly, pick your way northwest through by. The view was dominated by Suilven, but more bar in one of the summit wind shelters and admired the Gleannan a Mhadaidh lochs, or eastwards excitng for us today was the sight of Canisp, stll the view, taking “aerial” photos of some possibilites towards Bonar Bridge, and the map tells me that with snow streaks on the summit, clear and bold for future canoe routes before startng down. We had there are other optons awaitng the explorer. against the blue sky. The headwind was picking lunch lower down amidst the boulders and hillocks, a

22 | Ceufad The perfect campsite? Ceufad | 23 Reaching the boulderfield on Canisp – Cul Mor and Stack Polly in the background The view over Cam Loch, Loch Urigill (far centre) and Loch Borralan (far left) Loch Urigill; the pea-gravel spit is on the right

place which surprisingly was more windy than which we could now plainly hear. The lef bank surface for sleeping on, because it conforms to near the summit. The hill’s inhabitants quietly (facing upstream) had looked the best portage Lunch stop on the Falls Portage your shape — wild camping’s answer to Memory went about their secret lives; when we startled opton on Google Earth, and this was borne Foam. The downside is that it doesn’t allow very a stag in a litle fold in the hills, he took a couple out now by seeing the place for real; it looked secure pegging, so we ted of the guys to stones. i Like CaMping on pea- of leaps and seemed just to evaporate, and we a natural carrying place. There was no human The sky didn’t betray any change in the weather, happened across a family of ptarmigan, spotng path, but as usual deer have created a passable but we did confrm that there was an adequate graveL. it doesn’t get them only because they moved; when they saw track and the whole portage (Falls Portage) of supply of bigger rocks for emergency use. us they froze and simply disappeared, perfectly around 1100 metres was quite steady. The deer That evening we went for a walk along the “in your food Like sand camoufaged amongst the silvery boulders. track came uncomfortably close to the brink at shore to check out the path on the map which There were fashes of green lizards, and strring one point (when doing an overhead carry in a was our intended route to Loch Borralan. It just does, and it gives a of other things unseen. We got back to camp just playful breeze), right above the thundering falls wasn’t there. The only trace was an ancient gate in tme for tea — a great day. beneath, so we veered a bit further back from in the deer fence that was now deeply grounded Luxurious surfaCe for I got up in the night and there were so many the edge at this point. When we had lunch in vegetaton and un-openable, but on the far sLeeping on, beCause it stars that I set up my camera for a night-lapse partway across the portage, Loch Urigill stll side was featureless bog and forest. As a portage to capture The Plough wheeling overhead. I looked distant, but just over the next rise we route, it looked like the ultmate bog-slog, not ConforMs to your shape came back out 40mins later to switch it of, and unexpectedly came upon a hidden arm of water appealing at all. We didn’t really want to go back dismantle my makeshif tripod. Turning back to which marked the end of the carry. via the Falls Portage because we prefer to vary — WiLd CaMping’s ansWer the tent, I was somewhat shocked to see what The headwind was stll rising and once on the route, so another plan was called for. In the had been going on behind my back. The northern the water the paddling became quite hard. The end the decision was made for us. to MeMory foaM.” horizon was aglow with feint curtains of light loch is a rather shallow one and there are some By this tme the wind had dropped again and projectng upwards - the Northern Lights? large rocks lurking just beneath the surface a we were treated to an unforgetable sunset over We always joke that the wind sees us coming long way out. We found one the hard way. We the loch, a truly beautful, away-from-it-all place, and likes to turn to meet us. We paddled had planned to camp on the far side of the loch with an atmosphere certainly worth the efort of here with a headwind, which next morning on the sand bars, convenient for Meall Coire an getng here. This must be the best place to view Na Luirgean had reversed to give us the same experience Lochain, but the wind was now making this idea the otherworldly peaks of this region, all laid out paddling back. The joke is wearing a bit thin. As less atractve. In fact, we really needed to get in a line in front of you, mirrored in the water of the dawn calm was already giving way to a rising of the water asap. The best prospect we could the loch. breeze, we decided to set of without delay in see was a level spit leading out to what had There was a red sky that evening, which the canoe and have breakfast on a partcularly once been a small island, so we headed for that. brought to mind the old Scotsh weather saying: fne beach at the other side. The spit turned out to be an accommodatng “Red sky at night, anything can happen by the Back at the Ledmore River, we paddled fat, pea-gravel bank, unfortunately in the morning light” upstream untl it got too shallow, then tracked wind mostly, but with a litle shelter next to a 3am. The night was very stll. You could barely the canoe on its lines. We branched of right, rocky outcrop at the old island end. With litle hear the loch even though the water was only away from the Ledmore River Route, up the prospect of contnuing our search for a camping a few metres away. One of the things I really splendid Na Luirgean stream, now uncharted spot, we setled for this. look forward to at canoe camps is listening to country for us, and contnued to the botom I like camping on pea-gravel. It doesn’t get in the thrilling rush of the wind in the night. The of the litle gorge that housed the waterfalls, your food like sand does, and it gives a luxurious sound tells of things wild and vast; it makes me

24 | Ceufad Ceufad | 25 A tranquil evening on Loch Urigill which was followed by ... Sunset over Loch Urigill — worth the 1100 mile drive!

... a bracing morning – the water filter is now “storm-rigged”

feel like I have crept up to the very edge of the Travel seemed out of the queston next our concentraton to wander, so it could snatch the boat distance that the forest was of Lodgepole pines, which world. Tonight, I was disappointed; no wind. But morning so we dawdled over breakfast and from us. We stopped whenever stnging hail squalls hit was not good news. Although the name “Lodgepole” not for long. stayed in the tent untl way afer noon hoping us, put the canoe on its side and sheltered behind it. conjures up a picture of comfortable encampments of one of the things i The tent gave a gentle fap, and a sof gurgling for an improvement, which never came. The contented natve Americans, for some reason these started up from the water. Within twenty view was prety, though, for all the peaks around trees don’t provide the sof, level beds of needle-liter reaLLy Look forWard minutes, the tent was thrashing madly, sprayed us now had whitened tops. that you ofen fnd in Sitka plantatons. We couldn’t fnd to at Canoe CaMps with high velocity rain, and the roar from the Like everyone else, I enjoy camping in the anywhere that seemed an improvement on our existng “ loch strred up uncomfortable thoughts of our sunshine, paddling on mirror lochs and climbing camp, so opted for another night on the pea-gravel bar, is Listening to the being swept away. The rocks we had gathered hills on dry, clear days. However, to be honest, I which might be wild, but at least was really comfortable. to secure our guylines now didn’t seem overly like the tmes when things get challenging just The next day we completed the portage to the road, thriLLing rush of the substantal. The more I thought about them, as much - when your range of optons begins cached the gear under the bridge and walked the stormy the smaller they became. Then our dome tent’s to diminish and you have to formulate a plan few miles back to retrieve the car. Wind in the night. the poles on the windward side inverted, water to extricate yourself from whatever trouble started seeping in and we had a “situaton” on you’ve got yourself into. This was one of those Loch Urigill is a prety loch, of the beaten track and sound teLLs of things our hands. When it was clear that Emergency tmes. I love weighing up the optons. Climbing worth a visit. In the light of our experience we suggest Level 1 procedures (pull sleeping bag over Meall Coire an Lochain now seemed out of the approaching the loch up the Ledmore Estate track WiLd and vast; it Makes head; hope it will go away) were not working, queston; paddling across the loch to it would (which would be easily trolleyable), and afer exploring Once in the shelter of the trees, conditons were much Me feeL Like i have I went to Level 2 (sleeping bag into drybag; on be extremely unpleasant. The intended path to the loch, carrying out by the Falls Portage and so down with the drysuit), and went out into the dark Loch Borralan didn’t exist, and going back out the beter. We thought we might as well learn something the river to Cam Loch. Crept up to the very tempest, headtorch making litle impression on way we had come in would involve going back from the situaton so tried out a variant portaging routne the gloom, to gather the biggest rocks I could lif onto the loch or a very long, exposed carry. We whereby halfway across the carry one person goes back about the author edge of the WorLd.” and bury them in the gravel as guy anchors. The thought our best opton was to portage the loch for another pack while the other contnues to the end, Graham Warren runs Moosehead Canoes (www. loch had become, let’s say, sinister; I tried not side to an estate track through the forest to the before returning to the mid point, thus saving a journey. mooseheadcanoes.co.uk), a Derbyshire-based business to look at it. Thirty minutes later the tent had Ledmore Estate bridge, next to the road a couple It worked really well, and saves considerable tme on specialising in wood-canvas canoes and paddlemaking. been restored to its usual shape, and we passed of miles away. This opton had one major thing portages, or from a more adventurous perspectve, Graham is author of Canoe Paddles: a complete guide the rest of the noisy night more comfortably. going for it — shelter from the wind. We would allows you to venture even further from the water. We to making your own, and has recently set up ‘Scotsh Other people seem always to have nice camps leave the tent up untl the last portage load so carried the canoe about two-thirds of the way to the Canoe Routes’ (www.scotshcanoeroutes.info) which in the sunshine, why can’t we? Wild weather we had somewhere to retreat to. Portaging the bridge before looking for a place to spend the night. gives informaton on trips in Scotland of the traditonal seems to follow us around. We are reluctant canoe overhead along the exposed loch side was The prospect was distnctly unpromising. The ground paddle and portage style. Stormchasers, or perhaps worse, Stormbringers. excitng, because the wind was just waitng for was boggy with lots of tussocks. We could tell from a For details contact: [email protected]

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