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Vol. XXIII No. 21 MUSINGS February 16-28, 2014 The sorry state of our Fort (By The Editor) e as a publication have always maintained that Fort St WGeorge needs to be the administrative headquarters of our State. It, after all, symbolises the beginning of modern history for the whole country and has been the seat of administration of Southern India and, later, our State for 374 years. What is, how- ever, forgotten is that the Fort is also a historic precinct that draws visitors from the city, the State and the world over. Their interests are not considered at all by the administrative juggernaut. In the process, the Fort is increasingly becoming a disappointment. Take the very process of entry. The north and south sea gates are closed to the general public who need to access the Fort from a The Mylapore Festival Kolam Competition, 2014, as sent by Mylapore Times (Also see page 8). side entrance that has to be searched for and located. Names have to be entered in mouldy registers. Visitors then What the Law proposes need to be frisked, the women in a makeshift shelter that only the hardiest of sightseers would like to enter. Once inside, there the hawkers duly dispose are no maps, brochures or routes. The average tourist sim- ply wanders around, the t is barely a month since the criticism of the Corporation tified as having problems of Everyone was happy with the Church of St Mary and the Fort Iopening of the much-touted officials and the police. It also congestion owing to indiscrimi- solution provided, except the Museum being the only two and, may we also add, much- leads us to the sad conclusion nate hawking. hawkers themselves. They were fixed landmarks. delayed shopping complex to that despite the best laws Matters moved slowly there- reluctant to move in due to a Where a person can wander rehabilitate hawkers from possible, just about everything after and it was only after a mistaken belief that shoppers around is also highly dependent T’Nagar Usman Road. And yet in India fails in its implementa- Public Interest Litigation was would not bother to come to on official whims. Thus, on a the hawkers are back on the tion. filed a couple of years ago that the complex. It is obvious that normal day, walking down St pavement, much to the chagrin It was in 2006 that the High the issue was once again not enough time has been spent Thomas’ Street (also known as of the residents in the locality. Court of Madras had, as part of brought to the notice of the in counselling the hawkers be- Snob’s Alley) is allowed, but on The failure of what was praised a judgement covering several fore the shift. Despite having a certain days this can be blocked by everyone as a well-thought petitions concerning the good facility, their apprehen- G by A Special (Continued on page 2) out solution has led to sharp hawking problem, formulated a sions persisted. They have, new scheme. This involved the Correspondent therefore, begun moving out in enumeration of hawkers and large numbers and occupy the the issuing of licences to them sidewalks and service lanes. by the Corporation. These High Court. The Hawking And it is alleged that the local licences were to be renewed Committee in its report la- Corporation officials and the each year and could be passed mented that the lack of speed police are turning a blind eye to on to those who wished to carry in implementation was mainly this development, because it is on the business should a due to official lethargy and apa- in their interest that the origi- licensed hawker retire or pass thy. The report also hinted at nal chaos continues. away. The civic body was then official connivance in allowing The residents of the area asked to build/identify specific the hawkers to stay where they have, however, decided not to areas to which these hawkers were despite alternative accom- accept the situation as it is. could be moved and from where modation being ready. The They have sent a series of let- they could continue plying their Chairman of the Committee ters to the Corporation asking trade. To ensure that this was observed that none of his obser- as to why the orders of the done quickly, a Hawking Zone vations had been taken seri- Court are being violated. These Implementation Committee ously by the administrative ma- questions have been raised and chaired by Justice A Rama- chinery. That was when the answers sought under the Right “I’m holding a red mug instead of red beacon, Sir... I’m sure murthy was set up. The scheme Court set a deadline and every- this won’t be objected to!” was to apply to ten zones iden- one had to comply. (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 February 16-28, 2014

Mega invitations for mega weddings is the season of wedding ding. Seriously, who is inter- street name. When MMM ’T bells. In the considered ested in knowing all this, apart asked as to why the caller of view of The Man from Madras from some research scholar in the previous day could not Musings, the season’s popula- the United States of America? have taken down this informa- tion can be divided into three The bride and bridegroom have tion, there was a stunned si- groups – the first which is get- other things on their minds, the lence at the other end as ting married, the second which parents are probably calculat- though nobody had ever (Continued from page 1) is in-charge of conducting the ing the expense and the guests thought of this. weddings, and the third which are interested in the food. A couple of days later, is attending them. Of the third What most of these new when MMM was out earning variety, there are sub-groups: bling cards overlook is plain his daily bread, there was a the ones that love attending readability. By the time you fourth call. The caller, this weddings and cannot be kept manage to evade the gold-splat- time a stentorian male voice, The last house on Snob’s Alley. away from them short of im- tered gods, the ornate borders, wanted to know ‘at least two prisonment, the second that and the pietra-dura inlay work prominent landmarks’ near takes them as a matter of duty to locate who is marrying MMM’s house. When asked The state of our Fort and breezes in and out, and the whom, the wedding is probably why, the voice said it was on third that grumbles and over. And as for storing these its way to call on MMM and (Continued from page 1) will be fined or punished. But groans. The last one is rather cards till the actual day of the was actually on the road where what about the monuments like the wedding guest in event, forget it. There was a MMM’s house stood but could that have already collapsed or Coleridge’s Ancient Mariner, time when invitations used to not locate the building. When off without reason. More con- are very near to that? What is beating his breast over what is comfortably fit into mail-hold- MMM replied that he was not sistent is the Archaeological the purpose in putting up these a joyful occasion. ers. The ones of today don’t fit at home just then, the voice But what MMM has chosen into any receptacle including was disappointed. Meeting Survey of India (ASI) which, signs next to Wellesley House, to ponder over in this missive desk drawers. And woe betides MMM was apparently the am- seated in Clive Building (really for instance, part of which fell of his is not so much the wed- you if the thicker ones fall on bition of a lifetime for the Admiralty House), has a placard in the 1980s and has remained ding but the invitation card your toe accidentally. voice and by not being at at the reception table, which rubble ever since? There are which, rather like the events home, MMM had clearly bro- categorically forbids visitors be- some other buildings that the themselves, have become big- ken the voice’s heart. When yond that point. As for its own ASI is supposed to be forever re- ger and bulkier, though not MMM asked rather tartly if excellent initiative, ‘Clive’s storing. One of these, the last any way better. There was a SHORT ‘N’ the voice expected MMM to Corner’, which served as an in- house on Snob’s Alley, is in the time when invitation cards SNAPPY be at home at all hours, the formation centre on one of the picture above. It is anybody’s were two-sided, oblong, pink voice rang off without an ex- Fort’s most colourful occu- guess as to what restoration is on the outside and yellow on planation. the inside, and when folded The last straw was the fifth pants, this is kept locked all the going on. twice, could slip into a small caller. This one after having time. As for any information on envelope. These were none too Discovering cheerily wished MMM a ‘very When it comes to upkeep, it any of the buildings, just forget great on the eye, and as for credit-worthiness good morning’ asked MMM if cannot be denied that the areas it. Barring St Mary’s and the the text, which was he was sure of all the facts that under the control of the State Fort Museum, buildings that blue on the pink and green on iven the exhaustive pro- he had furnished in the appli- Government are the worst off. have their histories inscribed on the yellow, you had to have Gcess the system goes cation form. It then said it, the Haphazard parking of vehicles, marble, none of the other struc- near-perfect vision to manage through, The Man from Madras voice, was bound by rules to litter from juice and tea shops tures has any detail. You are ex- it. But they were functional. Musings has always wondered get verbal confirmation from at the way credit card compa- and, above all, the continued pected to walk around and form You could identify a wedding MMM for a few random en- invite from a distance though nies lament about defaulters. In tries in the form. MMM asked and seemingly endless renova- your own theories as to what you may not have been able to all his innocence, MMM it to go ahead. The first ques- tion of Namakkal Kavignar each one stood for. As for the read the text at close quarters. thought that these due dili- tion, without the batting of an Maligai, the ten storey tower, ravelins that form the Wallajah The process was gence assessments are done by eyelid, was whether MMM add to the chaos. Posters on the and St George’s Gates, the simple as well. You rushed off gimlet-eyed detectives who can had entered the ‘correct walls contribute still further to space beneath them has been to the nearest alley and identi- identify a potential fraudster father’s name’. the poor image that the Fort made over for debris. The gates fied a one-room printer in with ease. But the process of presents. What is the point in are at least kept clean as they whose backyard an assistant verification (or verivification as Educationist, putting up signs that warn provide access to the Fort Sta- operated a treadle press. One MMM has heard it referred to) everyone against littering, when proof later, the cards were with is so ham-handed that MMM is educate thyself tion. But the North Gate per- fairly certain that it is done this practice is routinely carried haps is the worst off, completely you. Then all that was needed was to write the addresses on with only one objective – to he Man from Madras on with impunity by the occu- littered, with the road leading the envelopes, daub the cor- irritate the applicant. T Musings often walks by an pants themselves? to it doubling up as a bazaar ners with turmeric and then, MMM has all along been education institution run by a The ASI has put up its where vendors sell flowers and ho, to the post office. happy with just one credit card. Holy Order. The walls are now standard blue boards at various other things. The whole thing has be- He is not one of those men who inscribed with biblical quotes, places declaring that the build- If this is the way we present come hugely complicated now. have wallets bulging with plas- no doubt to keep posters at bay. But someone ought to ing alongside is a historic one of the best known monu- These days, an invitation card tic money. But came a day is not one unless it is half the when having seen an advertise- have paid attention to the monument and that those ments of our city, what price the spellings. caught defacing or damaging it other historic structures? size of a window, as thick as a ment for a new card, MMM telephone directory and is succumbed. He duly filled in – MMM borne in by a staggering set of the form and signed at as many slaves. Entrusting it to the as 57 different places on it. At postal system, which must be the end of it, the tied and What the Law proposes... still handling mails in sacks, is heavily cologned representative clearly out of question. What smiled and assured MMM that (Continued from page 1) native facilities allocated. The would happen to the tinsel, the that was all and the card would Chairman has in turn written to gilt edgings, the tassels and the be on its way after a simple veri- to Information (RTI) Act. The the Corporation seeking an ex- pasted colour stones if these fication. Little did MMM know reply received is a classic case of were unceremoniously dump- that he was embarking on planation. Whether the same, something that would make bureaucratese. The responses, or a similar, answer as was re- ed in sacks, hauled around by and they are the same to all postmen and then pushed into Odysseus journeys simple in ceived by the residents of T’ comparison. queries, simply have it that, letter boxes? The mind bog- Nagar will come his way is gles. It all began with a phone call “under RTI Act 2005, reply anybody’s guess. If the response These extra large cards, where the caller, after wishing other than the information on and action by the Corporation with a whole lot of shiny add- MMM a ‘very good morning’, record cannot be furnished”, are not satisfactory, the resi- ons (MMM understands that asked MMM’s name. This af- whatever that is supposed to dents propose taking the matter the technical term for these iri- ter having begun the call with mean. to Court once again. Which is descent things is ‘bling’), when the words ‘Very good morning The T’Nagar Residents’ where the matter was referred opened, become several cards, Mr MMM’. A day later came yet another call that wanted to Welfare Association then re- to in the first place. each one colour coded for a presented the matter to the particular auxiliary event, all of have MMM’s address. MMM It is sorrowful that the best them adjuncts to the wedding had just given the door number Chairman of the Hawking of schemes come undone at the when the caller rang off, hav- Committee, supporting its proper. If this is not enough, hands of petty officials who care some cards have a ex- ing thanked him for the infor- claims with photographs of for their own benefits, thereby plaining most unnecessarily mation. A day later came yet hawking that continues unaba- ignoring the interests of the the entire process of the wed- another call, asking for the ted on the streets despite alter- citizenry. February 16-28, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

Unabating auto menace Adhithi Devo Bhava must be preached and practised by all. side from the points stated Even if we are unable to help in the article ‘If Chennai is A the tourists, we should in no to be a tourist destination’ way be a hindrance or a threat (MM, February 1st), an impor- to them.. tant point which needs men- tioning is the fleecing by auto V.S. Jayaraman drivers. Even after fixing the re- 31, Motilal Street vised auto meters, complaints of Chennai 600 017 over-charging are abundant. Madras English When will we ever become quality conscious? When the drivers take even the G On January 16th we had wondered whether concrete roads were the answer to our road condi- veteran locals for a ‘ride’, you would like to share some of tions. On February 1st, a reader wrote about the quality of these roads. Here, readers can see for can very well imagine the fate Ithe observations that I have of newcomers. made about the influence of themselves the sad lack of quality to be found in newly laid concrete roads in the city. It was recently reported that English on the city’s lingua a person from Assam who came franca. It is my surmise that we Correct usage? formally in ironic or humorous to Chennai for medical treat- South Indians are more faithful contexts: n the article on Concrete ment was charged Rs. 1300 to that legacy, English language, * Here comes Bill et al. It roads (MM, January 16th) from Central Station to Thou- than certain other Indians. I should not be used in ordinary the Latin expression ‘et al’ is sands Lights, a distance of 6 While ‘sir’ may have be- writing or in speech, and should used. I wonder whether et al can Till February 20: Group 4 an exhi- kilometres, by an inhuman auto come ‘saar’ here, elsewhere it is be used only when a list is be used for other than people, bition of the work of Achuthan driver, and that when the visi- ‘sir-ji’. I have always wondered specific and does not start with Kudallur, Amitabh Sengupta, in place of ‘etc’. tor objected to the demand, he how, in the earlier days, bus for example or such as.” Dhiraj Choudhury and R.B. was threatened with dire conductors in the city would Chambers dictionary does Bhaskaran (at Focus Art Gal- have shouted ‘hold on’ or, for define et al as referring to people H.J. Pavamani lery). consequences. Following the 126, Road, very bitter experience, the visi- that matter, ‘right’ or ‘right- and things. However, The Good Word Guide edited by Martin H. Chennai 600 032 Till February 23: Attachment, an tor decided never to visit right’, but in the recent past the exhibition of of work Chennai again. words I have heard are ‘tension’ Manser from Bloomsbury says Tourism destination by Ganesh Selvaraj, Narayanan and ‘back-up’. as under: In order for tourism to thrive lthough most of our met- V. and Yuvan Bothisathuvar (at Conversely, it is common “Et al is an abbreviation of et in Chennai, the authorities ropolitan cities present Cholamandal Artists’ Village). knowledge that ‘mulligatawny’ alii and means – ‘and other A must first and foremost ugly scenes, Chennai tops them and ‘catamaran’ from Tamil people’. It is used particularly in Till February 23: Reflections On discipline the auto drivers. The all. Mumbai with all its handi- Grace, an international photo entered the English lexicon writings of a formal technical gateways like railway stations caps is a better administered fest (at Indian Institute of years ago. nature to indicate the omission and airport must be ‘sanitised’ city. Technology, Madras). of other names. * Similar find- and monitored by the autho- Living in Chennai, if T.K. Srinivasa Chari ings have been recorded by Till February 23: Squaring The rities so as to ensure that 99, Journalists Colony garbage is the worst offender, Jones, Bernstein, et al. Alterna- Glass Circle: Art and Artisanship the auto drivers behave pro- Srinivasapuram the dirtying of the city’s walls by tively, it is sometimes used in- (at DakshinaChitra). perly. Tiruvanmiyur, Chennai 600 041 innumerable ugly cinema and other kinds of posters comes Till February 26: Anatomy Of Forking Paths by Reena Kallat (at second. The authorities think Art Houz). OUR ADDRESSES Statement about Ownership and that keeping certain VIP roads other particulars about newspaper clean is enough. Till February 28: Words Need For matters regarding subscri- Many local corporation play- Words an exhibition of work by ptions, donations, non-receipt (As required to be published under Section 19-D Sub-section (b) grounds too have been handed C. Douglas (at Gallery Sri Parvati). of receipts etc.: CHENNAI of the Press and Registration of Act with Rule 8 over to contractors to dump HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, of the Registration of Newspaper (Central Rules), 1956.) their materials and they Till February 28: Signals, Signposts. 30, Westcott Road, Roya- vandalise them. This is a new Voyages: 4 From The Madras pettah, Chennai 14. Form IV phenomenon. Movement, C. Douglas, Murali- Madras Musings now has its Madras Musings (Fortnightly) Complaints to the Corpora- dharan, Nandagopal and Palani- own email ID. Letters to the appan (at Artworld). 1. Place of Publication : Chennai (Madras) tion or to MLAs bring no relief. editor can be sent via email to Is this a city being listed as a editor@madras musings.com. 2. Periodicity of its publication : Fortnightly Till March: Raghu Rai’s India by Those who wish to intimate world class destination (MM, Raghu Rai (at Gallery Veda). change of address can also do 3. Printer’s name : Mr. Anu Varghese February 1st)? Till March 9: Stains Of Stimuli by so provided the subscription Nationality : Indian number is quoted. T. Santhanam Sujith S.N. and Interface: a group Address : M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd. [email protected] show (at Forum Art Gallery). For non-receipt of copies, No. 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006 change of address, and all 4. Publisher’s Name : Mr. S. Muthiah for Chennai Heritage other circulation matters: CHENNAI HERITAGE Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani Nationality : Indian No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, , Chennai 600 014 Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., Address : No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, 122, Greames Road, Chennai Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / 600 006. On editorial matters: I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it The Editor, Madras Musings, 5. Editor’s Name : Mr. S. Muthiah hereafter. No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Nationality : Indian Westcott Road, Royapettah, G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 Chennai 600 014. Address : No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year No personal visits or telephone 2014-15. calls, please. Letters received 6. Names and addresses of : 1. Mr. N. Sankar Director will be sent from these individuals who own the S/o (Late) Mr. K.S. Narayanan G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment addresses every couple of days publication 292, T.T.K. 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DD/Cheque should be sent by Speed Post only. – THE EDITOR (Publisher) 4 MADRAS MUSINGS February 16-28, 2014 February 16-28, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 A mistress-maid case An Indo-Ceylon he newspapers have been Tfull of the story of Devyani dream of Khobragade, the Indian diplo- mat who recently faced charges of long, long ago of ill-treating her maid in New York. Whatever be the truth in (By Sriram V.) the 20th Century the reports, it brings to mind the General of England, and much Town in place of the dubashes written by Foxcroft to the Com- first ever trial by jury in India, G February 24th, being celebrated as the inaugu- later the Lord Chancellor. Finch Beri Thimmappa and Kasi pany on September 6, 1660 while which took place in our very own ration day of the Pamban Bridge, is really the in due course pronounced that Viranna. This at a time when his in prison, “seized on Mr Dawes Madras. This too was a mistress- opening of the Indo-Ceylon rail connection with the Company had the jurisdiction wife was accused of murder! his house and all that he had, A portrait of Sir Edward Winter employee case. On trial for the the Boat Mail. But that was only the beginning of murder of her native slave girl to try such crimes, taking its pow- On September 14, 1665, leaving his wife destitute where- patches from Madras ever since what had been planned as a permanent link The proposed rail link. Chequa, alias Francesca, was ers from the Charter of 1661 is- Winter barged into the Council with to feed her family.” From he took charge and it was only between the two countries. It was a dream never her mistress, Ascentia Dawes. sued by Charles II. chamber and made several ac- this it can be seen that Ascentia, on January 18, 1667 that the EIC fulfilled. Ascentia was the wife of an East While matters progressed cusations against the Agent. A assuming that she was the wife got to know of the coup, thanks ccording to mythology, In 1907, Sir Henry Kimber, the India Company employee. slowly in the trial of Ascentia Da- heated argument ensued, Will- of William Dawes, was not un- to a letter from another Foxcroft Lord Rama, when he Chairman of the South Indian Arthur Mitchell Fraas, in his wes (and we do not know if she iam Dawes in particular being der arrest even a year after she A sympathiser, Sir George wished to invade Ceylon to re- Railway (SIR), on an inspection 2011 dissertation submitted to was placed under arrest during vociferous in support of Foxcroft. was charged with murder. Oxinden, the Chief at Surat. cover his consort Sita, who had trip to India, received a depu- Duke University (They Have this time), things were hotting up Later, Foxcroft ordered the con- Meanwhile, the Company, The King asked the Lord Chan- been carried away by Ravana, tation of Ceylon planters who Travailed into a Wrong Lati- on the Winter front. By early fining of Winter to his chambers. having received legal opinion in cellor to investigate. Consequent the Demon King of Ceylon, urged that improved means of tude:The Laws of England, Indian 1665, the Company, not waiting But Winter was not without the Acentia Dawes matter, to this, a commission was issued crossed the Pamban Pass from communication should be provi- Settlements, and the British Impe- wrote to Foxcroft (unaware that on December 4th, ordering the Mandapam on the mainland to ded, to enable Indian labour to rial Constitution 1726-1773) Winter had taken over the reduction of Fort St George and the large island on the Indian reach the plantations safely. Sir writes that she was Luso-Indian government) stating that the the restoration of Foxcroft to his side and got as far as Dha- Henry later met Lord Morley, the (of mixed Portuguese and respective “Governours and A Turing and office. A fleet of five ships and a nushkodi only to find his further Secretary of State for India, and Indian blood). Councells Established by us in frigate, fitted out for “warfare or progress barred, but – so the story Lord Elgin, the Colonial Se- At the time this episode took any of our fortes, Townes, etc., trade”, sailed for Madras. The goes – a causeway known as cretary, in London. As a result of place, there was a William a Reverend too! have power to exequute Judge- The Scherzer Bridge. vessels arrived on April 21, 1668 Adam’s Bridge came into being, these discussions, the Ceylon Go- Dawes who by 1656 was Secre- ment in all Causes Civill and here are at least two more instances in the early history of and after a protracted negotia- making it possible for Rama to vernment Railway (CGR) ag- tary of the Council. In 1657, Criminall.” It also pointed out tions by a railway constructed on consisting of low banks of sand by the slabs was to be filled in TMadras, of domestics/slaves being killed by their employers. tion with Winter, got him to cross the sea and reach Mannar reed to construct a 67-mile found guilty of corruption, he Both of them are mentioned in Dodwell’s Nabobs of Madras (1926). that this was arrived at after con- a solid embankment raised on pitched with coral presented no with sand. yield. Foxcroft was made Gover- Island and from there the Ceylon branch railway track from Mada- was imprisoned for over a year. The first was Mrs. John Turing (one of a long line of Turings in sulting the King’s counsel. To the sand bank known as Adam’s difficulty. The section through The top of the concrete work nor by October, and permission mainland where he recovered wachiya on its main line to Talai- By the 1660s, however, he had Madras that culminated in James Matheson Turing whose son clarify matters further, a letter to Bridge, to supersede the ferry the sea was to be carried on a was to be carried to six feet above was granted to Winter to stay on his queen. Such a crossing has mannar on Mannar Island. On bounced back and was once Allan is said to be the father of modern computing), who in 1761 this effect had been obtained steamer service which was to be causeway constructed on a high water level, and the rails in Madras. All was now set for been discussed often in more re- the Indian side, the Madurai- again in the Council, a trusted had several ‘Coffree girls’ in her service. In 1769, according to from the King, a copy of which established between the two double row of reinforced con- were to be laid at that level. The Dodwell, she came “into painful prominence, being indicted for the trial of Ascentia Dawes. cent times. Mandapam railway was to be ex- right hand of Sir Edward Win- was enclosed. To vest the Agent points. crete piles driven into the sand. causeway was to cause the sus- causing the death of one of her slaves. Though acquitted, she with- Following the procedure set The possibility of connecting tended across the Pamban Pass by ter, the Agent for Madras, who with proper authority, it was In 1913, the SIR made a de- The piles were then to be braced pended sand brought up by the drew from the settlement for some time.” out by the King’s Counsel, 24 India and Ceylon by a railway a bridge to Rameswaram island was later responsible for the first deemed fit to “Constitute you tailed survey and a project report together longitudinally with currents to settle on either side, The second was the Rev. St. John Browne, who in 1775 was persons were summoned to form across the bank of sand extend- and thence to Dhanushkodi. coup in the Settlement. When Governour of our Towne and was prepared. The report con- light concrete arches and chains bringing about rapid accretion appointed Parson of St Mary’s by the Court of Directors without, a grand jury. It returned the in- ing the whole way from Rames- When these two extensions by 1664-65 Winter incurred the as the Church of England was careful to add later, “reference to the Forte where the fact was Com- templated the construction of a and transversely with concrete and, eventually, making one big dictment as it was, confirming waram to Mannar was explored were completed, the two coun- displeasure of the EIC, an inves- Archbishop of Canterbury or the Bishop of London.” Browne was mitted, as well as Agent, and to causeway from Dhanushkodi to ties, struts and chains. Behind island of Rameswaram and that she had to be tried for mur- from time to time in the second tries were only about 21 miles tigator was sent out, whereupon disgraced when his servant, while trying to escape his master’s blows, appoint you a Council under our Talaimannar, a length of 20.05 the piles, slabs of reinforced con- Mannar Islands. The total cost der. It was decided that the jury half of the 19th Century. It apart across a narrow and shal- Winter retired in high dudgeon fell from a terrace some twenty feet high. “The wretched man was Seale, which together with some miles of which 7.19 miles would crete were to be slipped into posi- of the causeway and work at the for the trial would comprise picked up momentum from 1895 low strait. The project was again to Madapollam, a village in the left lying there all night and died two days later.” Some were of the Instructions and directions how be on the dry land of the various tion, the bottom slabs being sunk two terminal points was esti- twelve men, six English and six and various schemes were sug- investigated with the idea of West Godavari District, and view that the Rev. Browne had to be pardoned as he committed the to proceede in the Triall of this islands, and 12.86 miles in the well into the sand of the sea bot- mated to be about Rs. 111 lakh. crime under the influence of alcohol. But he was tried and found Portuguese, and 36 people were gested. connecting the two terminal sta- from there sent letters of protest woman, and of such as were As- water. The sections on dry land tom. Lastly, the space enclosed This scheme was given up in guilty of ‘homicide through misadventure’. He was sent back to summoned, the large number to England all of which were sistants to her, if any were, wee favour of a simpler one. At England. necessary in the event the ac- signed by Dawes as well. have likewise herewith sent Dhanushkodi and at Talaiman- cused objected to some of them Sometime in 1664, Chequa you.” nar two piers were built, one on sitting in judgment. As it hap- died allegedly at the hands of for its investigator’s report, sent supporters. Two days later, the This despatch reached Will- the north side for use during the pened, she objected to just three Ascentia Dawes. The Agent, George Foxcroft to supersede Captain of the Guard ordered iam Jearsey, the Chief at The steamers for the 21-mile crossing southwest monsoon, and one on – Sir Edward Winter (which George Foxcroft, and his Council Winter as Agent. The composi- the arrest of Foxcroft and his son Masulipatam, who was sympa- the south side for use during the prejudice is quite understand- were uncertain of their powers to tion of the Council remained on charges of treason. He asked thetic to Foxcroft. Following the he South Indian Railway out the vessels, and electrically- northeast monsoon. Between able), Robert Fleetwood (a Win- try a capital crime and wrote to otherwise unchanged, Winter the Agent to surrender so that coup, Jearsey had warned ships T had a major marine depart- driven fans assist the ventilation. these two points a steamer ser- ter man) and Hugh Dixon, England seeking guidance from becoming Second-in-Council. bloodshed could be avoided. to stay off Madras in order to de- ment headed by a Marine Superin- Suitable provision is made for In- vice was to be provided. This Gunner of the Fort and probably tendent posted at Dhanushkodi. dians as well as European first class the Company. The EIC too was Foxcroft began a detailed inves- When Foxcroft refused, muske- prive the Fort of vital supplies. was originally intended to be a a participant in the coup. The For the Indo-Ceylon connection, passengers; the accommodation uncertain of the powers vested in tigation of Winter’s transactions teers were ordered to march to The vessel bearing the docu- train-ferry, whereby the trains foreman of the jury was Edward they ordered as ferries three tur- for a large number of third class the heads of its outposts and, so, and discovered incriminating the Council chamber where- ments avoided Madras and were to be conveyed bodily, Reade, a son-in-law of Thomas bine steamers, which the Railway passengers, who will usually be In- referred the matter to the Privy evidence. With the balance of upon Foxcroft, his son berthed at Masulipatam. Fearing without transhipment, from Winter, the brother of the erst- Gazette of May 9, 1913, described dians, is extensive and well ar- Council, which in turn passed it power shifting, Dawes abando- Nathaniel, Jeremy Sambrooke Winter, Jearsey sent his assistant as follows. ranged. A cabin for their exclusive Rameswaram to Mannar, and, while Agent and whom, surpris- on to Sir Heneage Finch (after- ned Winter and became a confi- (another member of the Coun- Robert Fleetwood, a friend of “The vessels have a length over- use is provided on the lower deck so, provide through carriages be- ingly, Ascentia does not appear wards the first Earl of dante of Foxcroft. Dawes was cil) and William Dawes came Winter, to deliver the King’s all of 260 ft. a breadth of 38 feet, aft. tween India and Ceylon. A to have objected to. Nottingham), then Solicitor appointed Magistrate in Black “hastily running downe, with Commission and the EIC’s letter. and depth to promenade deck of “Provision is made for carrying modified scheme was, however, pistoll cocked and swords Winter received him in the Fort The trial was held in April 18 ft. 9 in. and a mean load cattle and sheep on the after part agreed on, whereby the sea pas- 1669. The examination of wit- draught of 6 ft. and are built of of the main deck, and arrange- SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS drawne”. In the ensuing scuffle, on March 28, 1667, and permit- sage was to be made with pas- steel throughout, the registered ments are made forward on the G Since XIV, No.1 (April 16, 2003), Madras Musings has been priced at Rs.5 a copy, the Foxcrofts were arrested, ted him to publicly read the nesses went on for about two senger-carrying steamers. On tonnage being 688 gross, 562 un- main deck for the carriage of mo- ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. Please make out your cheque only to CHENNAI HERITAGE Sambrooke injured and Dawes King’s Commission. Also read hours at the end of which the February 24, 1914, the Indo- and send it, together with the COUPON, to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott was killed. Foxcroft’s account foreman sent in a note to the der deck and 278 net. They are tor cars... Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 or C/O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS PVT. LTD., 62/63, was the warrant issued by about 800 tons load displacement. Ceylon connection was opened. has the full gory details – “all my Governor and his Council, who s. s. Elgin (left) and s. s. Hardinge at Dhanushkodi Pier. “The lifting appliances have GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI 600 006. Jearsey, commanding Winter to “They are fitted with 40 ft. top- been so arranged that motor cars The opening ceremony was at- An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part of our costs. Corporate support clothes on my left side burnt by a constituted the Court. It said enade deck forward of boiler cas- supplement to the other accom- tended by the three Governors and YOUR support will continue to be essential for Chennai Heritage and Madras Musings to play a set free and reinstate Foxcroft, gallant forecastle and promenade can be lifted on board by the ship’s greater role in creating awareness about the city, its heritage and its environment. We therefore look shott levelled particularly at me, in the light of the papers received that the jury found Ascentia deck extending nearly the whole ing a large deck saloon or lounge modation for the first class passen- own derricks and carried on the of Madras, Ceylon and Pondi- forward to your sending us your contributions IN ADDITION TO your subscriptions. but did only burne my clothes from England. Winter, however, guilty of murder but not in the length, and affording good accom- has been constructed for first class gers. The Officers’ cabins are situ- fore deck... cherry and other dignitaries. If in the coming year Chennai Heritage receives repeated support from those of you who have and race the skin off my side, chose to ignore the letter. He in manner and form described in modation for passengers. At each passengers, with convenient lava- ated on the upper deck aft of the “The leading condition with Of all the work on the Indo- already made contributions, and if many more supporters join the bandwagon, we will not only be able tory accommodation, and below first class deck saloon. to keep Madras Musings going, but also be able to continue awareness-building exercises on on- and went forward to Mr. Dawes fact wrote back to the EIC stat- the indictment. It also sought end of the promenade deck is a regard to speed was that the ves- Ceylon connection, probably the this is the first class dining saloon. “The details of lighting and going projects as well as undertake one or two more such exercises. that was behind me, and went ing that he was certain that the further instructions from the light sun-deck of teak and amid- sels should start from rest and most interesting was the span- Therefore, please keep your contributions coming IN ADDITION TO YOUR SUBSCRIPTIONS. quite through him, in at the belly Court which responded stating ships a portable awning is fitted. Both of these apartments are fit- ventilation have been carefully reach the end of their journey 20 If, say, you send in a cheque for Rs. 500, we will treat Rs.100 of it towards subscription to Madras documents were counterfeit and ted in teak. The promenade deck studied in connection with the lo- ning of the Pamban Pass. Com- Musings for 2014-15 and the remaining Rs. 400 as contribution towards the causes Chennai Heritage that it was the duty of the jury to On the promenade deck is placed nautical miles distant, in about 72 and out at the backe.” Dawes wondered at the boldness of above the saloon, sheltered as it is cality and climate in which the ves- mencing from Mandapam, the espouses. “dyed that afternoon.” bring in a verdict of guilty or not. the chart house with navigating minutes; instead, the journey was We look forward to all readers of Madras Musings, and those newcomers who want to receive copies, Jearsey in issuing warrants of bridge overhead. Under the prom- by a light sun-deck and fitted with sels are to be employed. Electric completed in 65 minutes during railway extension follows for Winter became Agent once sending in their subscriptions. such high consequence! side screens, will furnish a valuable light has been installed through- trials.” (Continued on page 7) – The Editor again and, according to a letter Winter had held back all des- (Continued on page 6) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS February 16-28, 2014 Tales from history

(Current Affairs questions are to degree coffee from the period January 16th to 31st. Questions 11 to 20 pertain to Chennai and .) t first glance, the title of Nirmala Lakshman’s new book, Degree Coffee by the 1. Which community re- AYard, seemed like some kind of literary device. However, on further reading, cently became the sixth to attain I found a whole chapter devoted to the much loved brew which Tamilians expertly minority status in our country? transfer from tumbler to dabara and vice versa, either to reduce the heat or to 2. Syedna Mohammed Burhanu- create frothness or both. Needless to say, this is one of the lighter chapters in this ddin, who passed away recently, brief biography of Madras. was the spiritual head of which In this ‘biography’, Lakshman weaves personal anecdotes about the city of her community? childhood and the city where she grew up in the 1960s and 70s, with a chronicle of 3. Name the probe which was historical and sociological facts about a city that has kept changing over the years ‘awoken’ recently from a hiberna- to what it is today. It is a story that begins with finding among excavtions in the tion of 31 months to ready for an area a hand axe (the first discovery of an Old Stone Age tool in the unprecedented mission to orbit and dispatch a lander to the Indian Subcontinent) by British geologist Robert Bruce Foote in 1863-64. Going surface of a comet. on from there, in relating the story of Madras (Chennai), Lakshman says, “What is 4. Which ‘robot-headed’ musical perhaps most interesting about the region is that archaeologists and historians both duo won the record of the year affirm the continuous presence of human beings in the area since the Palaeolithic and album of the year at the an- Age. If we leap forward a warar temple’s tank was built on dhi, sitting nual Grammy Awards recently? million years or so, Roman coins land donated by the Nawab of with his as- 5. The RBI has decided to with- and painted pots found in areas Carnatic and, till today, sociates on draw all currency notes issued like , , Muslims are allowed the use of the sands. She pointed this out She also emphasises that prior to which year? and are a sign that the tank on Muharram day. to her older son who went up to though Chennai, like all other 6. Name the two people who there were flourishing commu- Moving ahead to 1639, him and said, “Hello, my name cities, has an enormous appetite have been honoured with Padma nities and people living in the Lakshman points out that “Fort is Narayan” to which the Chief for cricket, it stands out by dis- Vibhushan this year. region were involved in trade playing a rare knowledge of the 7. January 31st was the beginning with lands across the seas. In game and a sense of apprecia- of the Chinese New Year of fact, the town of Mylapore was G by T.K. Srinivasa Chari tion for home and opposition the…. known even to the Greek geo- teams alike. She recalls “the re- 8. Name the Telugu cinema icon, grapher and astronomer sponse from the crowd when a Dadasaheb Phalke awardee, Ptolemy (who lived at the end Pakistan dared to take a lap of who passed away recently. of the first Century CE and into St. George (Madras) became Minister replied, “Hello, my honour (after winning a match) 9. Who was the Chief Guest at the second Century CE) and the citadel of British adminis- name is Karunanidhi.” And as in Madras, to thank them in this year’s Republic Days Parade figures in his writings as ‘Mylar- tration in India long before the though being politically correct, 1999. The crowd greeted and in New Delhi? phon’.” Crown acquired Bombay or she mentions the prodigious cheered and gave them a stand- 10. Who are the new Australian Going beyond references to founded the city of Calcutta. memory of Chief Minister J. ing ovation.” Open singles champions? the Chola, Chera and Pandya It was the first Corporation to Jayalalithaa which the late vet- Lakshman may conclude by * * * dynasties and to the Kalabhras be granted a seal by the eran stage actor R.S. Manohar asking the question ‘Is home the 11. Name the Scot, whose name and Pallavas are mentions of British East India Company in told her about. When he chal- outer world, the neighbourhood is synonymous with a Madras two present-day landmarks, the 1687.” lenged her to answer questions (Alwarpet in her case) or the business house of yore, and who Parthasarathy Swamy temple Striking an anecdotal note from a tome she seemed to be inner world, our aspirations? started his career as a doctor with and the Kapaleeswarar temple. elsewhere in the book, Laksh- skimming through, she was but she has already answered it the Nawab of Carnatic in the late 18th Century. The former is the only Vishnu man tells us about her connec- equal to the challenge, answer- earlier when she observed: “A temple where the deity has a tion to the much-loved Tamil ing about a dozen of them, sense of community, mutual de- 12. Mayavaram Vedanayakam Pillai is considered the ‘Father moustache and the punnai tree idol Subramania Bharati quoting even the page numbers. pendence and a common dream of…’. in the outer courtyard of the through her maternal grandfa- As a journalist whose man- that the city is the answer to our 13. Which two legendary archi- latter temple is said to be the ther, to the freedom movement date is a wide range of interests, dreams and is the glue that tects built two versions of the oldest in Chennai. Mylapore through Mahatma Gandhi’s vis- she also looks at the arts and at holds the city’s many layers to- famous pavilion at the Madras (where the Kapaleeswarar tem- its to her house, the simplicity sport. She offers an insider’s gether.” Cricket Club that stood between ple is located) also witnessed and administrative ability of view of Chennai’s ‘December The book, a part of an Aleph 1866 and the 1980s? the coexistence of the early Kamaraj and the rise of the Season’ where over 2000 music series on Indian cities, will 14. Which American, whose Buddhists and Jains and was Dravidian movement. She re- concerts are held during a strike an enjoyable note with name is synonymous with ‘being called Mayura Sabda Pattinam. calls a visit to the beach with couple of months, mentions the many a reader who knows rich’, was instrumental in the Fearing persecution, many of her children many years ago rise of the colloquial gaana Madras that is Chennai, but is WCC buying the Doveton these people might have con- when she spied the Chief Min- paattu, and offers much infor- an all too brief introduction of House? verted to Islam. The Kapalees- ister of the day, M. Karunani- maton on cinema and theatre. it to others. 15. By what name is Muhammad Ismail, the first President of the Indian Union Muslim league, familiar to most of us? MADRAS MUSINGS 16. Where could you recently ON THE WEB come across Harry Potter, Nelson THE MISTRESS & THE MAID Mandela, Kavingar Vaali and Ma To reach out to as many Po Si together in Chennai? (Continued from page 4) free and passed from the pages after several stages, culminated readers as possible who 17. Jaya-Hindustan’s ‘Vimo- share our keen interest chanam’, released in 1940, of history forever. in the formation of the High The case of Rex vs Dawes, Courts of Judicature in 1862. It in Madras that is commemorated which political The jury went into a huddle Chennai, and in re- again and after a short while however, set a precedent. The also saw the upgrading of the decision taken by the then Pre- sponse to requests from mier of the ? Reade declared that the Governor and Council, in their post of Agent of Madras to that many well-wishers – es- 18. Which old centre of learning accused was not guilty. As this letter to London on April 15, of Governor, who remained the is located in ‘Conway Gardens’ on was contrary to all expecta- 1669, lamented that the case executive head till 1947. The pecially from outside High Road? tions, the Court thought he had come to such a conclusion note from the King's Counsel Chennai and abroad 19. What was the great contribu- had made a mistake and asked because “we found ourselves at on how the trial was to proceed who receive their postal tion of R.M.S. Sundaram Iyer to him again, whereupon he a loss in severall things, for want was to serve for years as the copies very late – for an render into posterity the work of repeated that Ascentia was not of Instructions, haveing noe basis on which the EIC settled online . Madras saint-composer Thyagaraja? guilty. man understanding the Laws cases in its possessions in India. Musings is now on the 20. Which Tamil eveninger was The Court then asked the and formallityes of them to in- What was not new then, and web at www. madras founded by Subbaraya Kamath in members of the jury, and they struct us…” This was to mark continues even now, are musings.com 1917? agreed with the foreman. With the beginning of a process of ju- conflicts over the treatment of THE EDITOR (Answers on page 8) that Ascentia Dawes was set dicial reform in Madras which, domestics. February 16-28, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 The early days of Koothu-P-Pattarai t was a fashion in the early ‘cultural space’ of Chennai; cism that Muthuswamy was try- I1970s to drop names like Che third, to persuade Purisai ing to remove the rustic ele- Guevara and Pablo Neruda to Kannappa Sambandham to re- ment and raw beauty of project yourself as different and turn to his village and learn Terukoothu and that he was kill- progressive. It was a kind of whatever he could from his ing the true spirit of the form. branding in a soft form. In re- father Purisai Kannappa Others, however, have hailed cent times, Koothu-P-Pattarai Thambiran instead of driving and compared his endeavour has become a sort of brand for an autorickshaw in Madras for with Dr. Shivarama Karanth’s Na. Muthuswamy and P. Krishnamoorthy. many. Many new actors in mov- his livelihood. Na. Muthu- efforts in reviving Yakshagana in volved in contemporary theatre ventiveness in artistic expres- ies these days make it a point to swamy and Cre-A Rama- Karnataka. activities. sion. His observations were the declare their association with krishnan provided the financial * * * This was the time when result of his exposure to varied Koothu-P-Pattarai or their cushion for Sambandham I first came to know about Venkat Swaminathan, in his works of art (fine arts and per- training there. I am indeed during that period. the activities of Koothu-P- writings, was highlighting the forming arts) facilitated by his happy about the publicity it lack of initiatives for new ex- living in Delhi for nearly four generates for the organisation, periments in the field of art and decades. He used to express but it amuses me when I reflect G by E.R. Gopalakrishnan literature in general, and in the similar sentiments at the meet- on its beginnings. A former actor/director of Koothu-P-Pattarai. field of theatre and cinema in ings of the Delhi Tamil Writers’ It was sometime in 1976-77 particular in Tamil Nadu. In his Association. that Na. Muthuswamy, book Paaliaiyum Vaazhaiyum Venkat Swaminathan intro- supported by ‘Pragnai’ Ran- It was a wonderful gesture, Pattarai in 1977 through a (Desert and Oasis), he laments duced me to the plays of the garajan (aka Veerachamy), was given their personal constraints. pamphlet given to me while I the Tamil environment that National School of Drama pre- crusading for Terukoothu with Their efforts were not wasted, was sharing a room in a narrow lacked the urge to improve its sented at NSD’s small indoor the cooperation of Cre-A going by the recognition Purisai bylane in Karolbagh, New quality in artistic expressions, auditorium and at the Purana Ramakrishnan. Their immedi- Kannappa Sambandham enjoys Delhi. The pamphlet was an ap- and the lack of will to strive to Qila. There were plenty of ate task was threefold – first, to today as a leading Terukoothu peal for donations to support be at par with works presented programmes at other venues mobilise resources to rehabili- exponent and the recognition the activities of Koothu-P- in other regions of India and too. Street plays were staged in tate Terukoo thu; second, to gained by Terukoothu in the Pattarai in reviving Terukoothu. abroad. He was also critical of the university area or in Con- work towards gaining accept- classical milieu of Chennai. There was no indication that the lethargy of Tamils in mak- naught Place. As I had lived in ability for Terukoothu in the There has been some criti- the organisers were also in- ing efforts to expand their in- the ‘sabha culture’ as a resident of for over 20 years, my exposure in Delhi con- vinced me that there was truth in Venkat Swaminathan’s con- THAT INDO-CEYLON DREAM cern. I too began to feet that we had not moved any further in (Continued from page 5) Much of the work on the cribs Colombo. The crossing used to train got submerged in water the field of theatre and cinema, was done by skin divers who take 1½ hours. while entering Dhanushkodi compared to the works of peo- about 2 miles the narrow sandy had to contend with rough seas Alas! This rail route is now station. Information has been ple from West Bengal, Kerala promontory, on which this from time to time that caused no more, tragedy having over- received that a portion of the and Karnataka and even the township is situated, to its end damage and subjected the work taken it in 1964. Amit Garg, in engine is visible six inches works from a small State like at Thontiturai Point, and then to interruptions. an article ‘Journey to Death’ above water.’ There were re- Manipur were simply over- across the sea on a viaduct, For the sea service between published in a Southern Rail- ports that huge pieces of the whelming. Most people working about 1¼ miles long, con- Dhanushkodi and Talaimannar way Women’s Welfare Organi- train’s wooden carriages had in the field of theatre in Tamil structed on the sandstone reef three fine steamers were spe- sation publication in 2002, gave been washed ashore on the Sri Nadu do not make sincere ef- connecting the mainland with cially designed. They were built this vivid description of the Lankan coast. forts to know or experience the island of Rameswaram. on the Clyde by Messrs. A & J tragedy: what is happening the world “Another major victim of over. Stagnation by itself is not Although a portion of the reef Inglis from the designs of “The six-coach Pamban- the cyclone was the Pamban is awash, yet there is an average the late Sir William White Dhanushkodi Passenger (No. a problem but not being aware Bridge, built by an Irish engi- of it should definitely be a mat- 6 or 7 feet of water over it. The and named the Curzon, the 653) left Pamban at 11.55 p.m. neer exactly 50 years before it Pamban Channel is an artificial Elgin and the Hardinge, after on December 22, 1964 with 110 ter of concern. was washed away by the * * * channel, used by coasting three Viceroys of India. on board, including a party of tidal waves... As many as 126 vessels having a draught not (Editor’s Note: They were later school students and five I returned to Madras in 1978 girders collapsed. Only 19 gird- and found the theatre scenario exceeding 12 ft. replaced by the Irwin and members of the railway staff. ers and the lift span, named The viaduct that was built is Goschen) The signal at Dhanushkodi by and large unchanged. The after its designer Scherzer, were Street Plays of Gnani and 6,776 ft. long and consists of The Indo-Ceylon connec- Outer went dead and the train spared. 145 openings, 143 of 40 ft. span, tion completed in 1914 gave stopped for a while. The driver ‘Veedhi’ Ramaswamy were the “The restoration work began one of 43 ft. and one of 44 ft. rise to competition between the then gave a long whistle and only new additions. Dr. Rajen- immediately. Almost all the There are 113 spans on the west South Indian Railway Company decided to take the risk. A giant dran was part of the Veedhi girders were salvaged from the side and 32 spans on the east and the British India Steam 20-foot wave rose from the Nataka Iyakkam. He went on to sea. ‘Emergency girders’ were side of the Pamban Channel, Navigation Company that of- turbulent sea and smashed the qualify from NSD, where he is brought from as far as Assam. and the latter is spanned with a fered regular sailings between train. Though the initial reports now Director-Research. During The work was completed within two-leaf Scherzer rolling lift Tuticorin and Colombo. There put the casualty figure at 115 this time, Na. Muthuswamy’s three months.” The metre bridge. This bridge is 289 ft. were also country boats, that based on the number of tickets Naarkalikkarar was translated gauge line now has a terminus between the piers and leaves for offered passage, but the incon- issued at Pamban, it was by Alfred Franklin and staged at Rameswaram. vessels a clear way 200 ft. wide venience and risks attendant on suspected that the toll would be by students of Guindy Engi- and 14 ft. deep. The bridge was transport by such means were around 200 as more passengers The Scherzer Bridge is a very neering College. designed by the Scherzer Roll- great. were said to have travelled special steel structure. It opens This was also the time Na. ing Lift Bridge Company The Indo-Ceylon connec- ticketless on that night. from the centre, the two arms Muthuswamy was working on of Chicago, and was con- tion was open for quite a num- “The tragedy came to light lifted up from the huge mecha- forming a modern theatre rep- structed by Head, Wrightson & ber of years. The South Indian only on December 25th when nical devices at the two piers. ertoire. He brought in K.C. Co. Ltd. of Thornaby-on-Tees, Railway and, later, the South- the Southern Railway issued a The Bridge has always been a Manavendranath and P. Kri- UK. ern Railway continued operat- bulletin based on the informa- very special structure of the shnamoorthy to work together. The piers of the viaduct are ing the 1 Up/2Dn Ceylon Boat tion received from the Marine South Indian Railway and later Krishnamoorthy, an artist from of granite masonry in cement, Mail from Madras to Dhanush- Superintendent, Mandapam. It of the Southern Railway. the College of Fine Arts, Ma- dras, is one of the early entrants with cement concrete founda- kodi Pier, where passengers said: ‘The train was caught in (Excerpted from: Southern in cinema as an art director. I tions enclosed in steel cribs or were transhipped to a ferry the cyclonic storm and was pre- Railway – A Saga of 150 Glori- too joined the group. caissons, the tops of the cribs steamer to cross Adam’s Bridge sumably hit by high tidal waves ous Years 1852-2003, by R.R. being fixed at mean sea level. for Talaimannar and thence to as a result of which the whole Bhandari). (To be concluded) 8 MADRAS MUSINGS February 16-28, 2014

he annual Sundaram end talks was Lady Siva- TFinance Mylapore Festi- swamy School. Pradeep val’s 2014 edition came to an Chakravarthy moved to a end, with Sundaram Finance’s The Mylapore Fest classroom when he found the ‘Spirit of Mylapore Award’ be- G The open space inside Lady age.There was the chess con- Pitchu Pillai Street had space curious Dayakattam players ing presented to tennis legend Sivaswamy School was a riot test at Nageswara Rao Park for students from the College still playing in the hall. The Ramanathan Krishnan. The of colours on all four days. and Dayakkattam and Pal- of Fine Arts, led by Sakthivel, listeners attending his talk on award was presented on the This was the arts contest lankuzhi at Lady Sivaswamy and the Chennai Weekend Devadasis took over the fourth evening of the Festival. space. The judges were cho- School. A surprise fun event Artists. The organisers have chairs, benches and desks! Sundaram Finance had in sen from the audience. The was the ‘Karumbu kadi’ con- a dream: to make this an ex- Ram Mohan spoke about his January 2009 instituted its an- children didn’t really care test held at the theradi. The clusive Art Street. great days in Pelathope in nual award to recognise one about the toffees that were sugarcane stick had to be G Who could think that the Mylapore. longtime resident or institution distributed by the volunteers; peeled using hands and teeth! mandapam leading to the ther G Shivananda Hegde and his of Mylapore who/that has con- each one only wanted a prize! Seven rounds of five partici- can be a place for perfor- 15-member Yakshagana tributed significantly to the cul- G Young singers seated on a gal- pants each took part in the mance? When the lights were troupe gave two back-to- ture and heritage of Mylapore. lery at the Nageswara Rao event. And still there were turned 180 degrees and back shows. Photographers Previous recipients have been Park this year let the music people waiting for their beamed on the mandapam, shot hundreds of pictures of roadside bookseller R.K. Azh- swirl. Some bright voices, chance. the audience too turned their the artistes doing the make- war, the legendary musician some still sleepy. Misty G The Kolam contest, the chairs towards it. Young up and getting into their S. Rajam, Dubba Chetty mornings, but the mosquitoes Festival’s flagship event, con- dancer Sumitra Subrama- constumes in the mandapam. Kadai, Rasi Silks, and Lady didn’t seem to spare anyone. tinued to receive huge par- niam danced to music by G While Sriram V. strolled Sivaswami Girls School. G It is a challenge to run a ticipation. Foreigners also young singer J.B. Keerthana. down Kutcheri Road taking A variety of events was festival of this magnitude in took part; an Aurovillean G The exhibition – ‘100 years of along two dozen people with enjoyed by at least 25,000 peo- open space. Artistes reaching won a prize and so did two Indian Cinema’ – on the first him and sharing stories, ple during the four days of the the venue on time, the props men. The Fest team was not floor of Bharatiya Vidya Ramanujar’s team cycled Festival, which has come to be that need to be brought in, all sure if children of this genera- Bhavan could be set up only down the Mylapore area. The the city’s one-of-its-kind cele- depend on the traffic and the tion could draw kolam. But a little late. The display Cycling Yogis had ten Ameri- bration. Some of the events du- criss-crossing of many in the two dozen plus children who boards didn’t arrive on time. cans who were here to attend ring the Festival as reported by audience. You need to liter- participated in the kolam con- The team of collegians work- a yoga camp. And the foodies Mylapore Times were as follows: ally float in the crowd to test proved the organisers ing on the project conceived filled up on Sridhar’s well- G A few days before the fest, the reach backstage. This was the wrong. The kolam area in by director A.L. Venky was planned Food Walk – from Kapali Temple office orga- story of the Krishna image front of the eastern gopuram more than happy to later see Rayar’s Mess to Janal bajji nised another event at the that couldn’t reach the stage looked beautiful with chil- a steady stream of visitors. kadai. (Courtesy: Mylapore Navarathri mandapam where for the Thiruvadira Kali dren in traditional attire But they were disappointed Times) the classical dance events of dance by artistes from Kerala. drawing kolams. by an unknown fan of MGR the Festival were planned. So G The band of 55 young artistes G Three hosts treated guests to who kept taking away the pic- Answers to Quiz a makeshift stage was created in the dance drama Sura elai sapad. Lakshmi of Devadi tures of the legend they had 1. Jains; 2. Dawoodi Bohras; on the eastern side, next to Samharam had travelled from Street and Jayashree of put up! 3. Rosetta; 4. Daft Punk; 5. 2005; the Saneeswarar sannidhi. A . These sish- Kesava Perumal West Street G The idea of having a small 6. Scientist R.A. Mashelkar and nice change: the dancers yas of guru Sheela Unnikrish- were not new to the concept; snacks kiosk at the theradi yoga guru B.K.S. Iyengar; 7. Horse; could also look up at the nan just smiled and went they had hosted elai sapad last worked well. A team of bub- 8. Akkineni Nageswara Rao; moon-lit skies and lit vimanas. about touching up their year too. For Padma Sanka- bly young mothers along with 9. Shizno Abe, Prime Minister of Kuchipudi dancer Madha- make-up, after squeezing into ran, this was a new experi- their children sold traditional Japan; 10. Stanislas Wawrinka a small house. Partly reno- ence. snacks like uppama, kozha- (men) and Li Na (women). vapeddi Murthy and his * * * sishyas performed an item on vated with glossy tiles, the G When C.A. Raja’s Pranavam kattai and vegetable poli. 11. John ‘Deaf’ Binny; 12. Tamil the brass plate adjusting their house of Venkataraman took the stage for the vintage They made it ‘no onion-no novel; 13. Robert Chisholm and movements to the space. played host to the artistes on film music concert, the audi- garlic’ on Vaikunta Ekadasi Henry Irwin; 14. John H. Rocke- G Young nadaswaram artiste all days of the Festival. ence sat glued to their seats. day. Idea worked. feller; 15. ‘Quaid-e-Millat’; 16. At Mylai R. Mahendran and his Seetharam of Kanchi Wea- Many sang along, some G The food street was packed. the Chennai Book Fair where there team of artistes began the vers’ Saree House was ano- danced and a couple was Unmanageable on Sunday. were lanes named after these lumi- four-day proceedings on the ther gracious host to perfor- in tears and enjoyed the From the traditional dosas to naries; 17. Introduction of Prohibi- first day on the main stage in mers who needed some rewind, talking of the days Mangalore kadubus, kozhakat- tion by Rajaji; 18. St. George’s front of the 16-pillar privacy. they had seen MGR films for tais and North Indian snacks Orphanage and Higher Secondary manda- School; 19. He single-handedly got G pam. The team arrived on The Festival realises that 40 paise! on offer, the foodies had their the kritis of Thayagaraja carved in time, performed to time and people want to compete in G The Tank Street was a bazaar full. marbles at his samadhi in Tiruvai- kept a low profile. games, irrespective of their zone teeming with shoppers. G The venue for the two week- yaru; 20. Deshabhaktan.

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiahfor ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No. Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 Chennaiand printed 600 014, by Tprinted J George by Anu at Varghese Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt. Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.