Costa Daurada Update

Version 1 - (2/12/1999)

CONTENTS

GENERAL COMMENTS ...... 2 ROUTE and CRAG CORRECTIONS ...... 2 Page by page listing of amendments ...... 3 to 5 Full topos and approach details

This update is intended to be used in conjunction with Fax10 - Costa Daurada, published by ROCKFAX in 1998. For more details contact the ROCKFAX web site - rockfax.com.

Thanks to the following who have all contributed to this information: Steve Swygart, Kevin Stephens, Tom Philips, Philip Smith, Simon Pritchett, Alan Austin, Sebastian Schwertner, Bernd Poertl, Craig Smith, Lewis Grundy, Jane Grundy, Rory Park, Jane Park, Molly Heits, Sophie Milner, Jon deMontjoye, Hillary Sharp, Lisa Curry and David Chadwick. Sorry to anyone I have missed off.

Rory and Jane Park on Trumfus Petuts (5+), Sector Can Torxa at Margalef. Photo: Alan James Page 80 - Mont-ral - Sector l'Arrepenjada GENERAL COMMENTS Route 8 - Ta is desperate therefore harder than Page 124 - Siurana - Tonigros 6b+. Route 4 - Estrany. is 6b. THE OVERVIEW MAPS The position of the village of Prades is wrong on all the little overview maps except the main one Page 90 - Arboli - Can Mansa Page 125 - Montsant - Approach on page 39. Route 2 - Kuriosillo is 6a+. Don’t go up the track directly from the parking, this Route 3 - Marfullenga is 6a is someone’s driveway. Take the other track which ROPE LENGTHS leads first to the left then doubles back up the hill. I have had several comments stressing the fact that you really need a 60m rope in this area. We have Page 93 - Arboli - Can Simiro tried hard in the guidebook to make this clear on page 18 and also on areas where it is relevant. You will Route 21 - Variant is three stars and probably bet- Page 130 - Montsant have problems in the Costa Daurada with a rope shorter than 60m and even with a 60m rope you ter than the original but it is only 7a+. Routes 2 and 3 are only 2 star. may end up having to lower off mid-route bolts. Route 10 is a sustained 6b+, 1 star. The reason we don't include pitch lengths for all routes is that if you describe a pitch as being 25m then Page 95 - El Falco Route 11 is brilliant. people may assume they can lower-off safely with a 50m rope but: The line on the photo-topo marked as 14 is in fact Route 21 is called Cometa Pupazza and is abril- 1) not all 50m ropes are the same length Route 11. liant but hard 6c. 2) people may clip different bolts on their ascent making the pitch use more rope There is a new line 29a - grade unknown but hard. 3) people sometimes forget when they have cut the tag end off their rope Page 97 - El Falco - Right Routes 31 and 32 looked okay so bin the bags! 4) people stand in different places to belay Route 9 - Fandango is only 7b. Route 35 is only 7a+ but quite scary. 5) some people are stupid Route 10 - Tu Pa Los.. has a dangerous first clip. These five factors can be vital when the pitch is a long one especially if you are lowering onto a ledge or a Page 132 - Vilanova - General Comment steep slope where, even from 2m up, a fall can take you a long way. Page 99 - El Falco - Left The grades at this crag are very stiff! Another reason that we don’t give detailed pitch lengths (on sport routes) is that climbers should learn to Route 11 - Pa Ella... is the only sandbag at Falco. be responsible for their own ropes when lowering off and should never rely on the guidebook. A simple Probably 7b unless you are a gorilla. Page 137 - Vilanova - Sector Camping 'very long pitches' on the topo should suffice but if accurate details are there then people may trust them Route 16 - Pere Mata is only 6b+. Route 34 - Maneta Xafardera is worth 6c. without questioning and then the five reasons above come into play. Route 19 - Haber pedido muerte is a superb route but the grade is all over the place. The first half is Page 141 - Vilanova - Sector Dels Ploms SNAKES and OTHER NASTIES probably about 6b and the second half is probably There are lots of new routes here. No details are Hog-nosed vipers have been spotted on the paths at Mussara and Montral and I have reliably been easier. The grade of 6b+ if you do it in one long known but they have all been put up by the own- informed that these can be fatal if bites are not treated. Be careful with those sport sandals! pitch is about right. ers of the camp site at who Poison ivy has been found on the apporach to Lo Raval. If you are remotely allergic to this then give the Route 20 - Per Tutatis is only 7a+ but it is 40m. will give you the information happily. crag a miss. This is also the route featured in all the photos early in the book, not Borinot. Page 147 - - Sector Pedestal PAGE 10 - GENERAL INFORMATION The two routes Mejar menjant and La via de Brian The telephone number of Tourist Info in Cornudella is wrong. I don’t know what it really is. Page 104 - Siurana - Valley Crags are extremely polished and not really worth 3 The climbing shop is poor. Route 2 - Kataplax is 7a. stars. Menjar menjant is worth 6c+. The Decathlon between and has basic gear and a climbing wall. Route 17 - Mandragora is probably 7b+. Page 151 - La Riba - Sector Les Plaques You can buy Fax10 at the camp site at Vilanova de Prades (if you need another copy or bump into some- Page 107 - Siurana - Valley Crags Route 12 - GEAM is worth 7a. one who wants one). The photo is Ya os Vale not Bistec. Page 147 - La Riba - Sense Nom Page 113 - Siurana - Sector Melafots Route 1 - Panini di Paura is brilliant but only 6c+. ROUTE and CRAG CORRECTIONS Route 31 - Hybrydy is worth 2 stars as is Route 35 Route 2 - Mon Magic... is also brilliant but is proba- - Hostia. bly 7a+. Page 50 - La Mussara - Sector Espantocells Page 157 - Cogullons - Approach Page 44 - La Mussara - Sector Roure Page 115 - Siurana - Can Marges Lower Route 4 is probably only about grade 5. I have had a report that from the large lump of Route 3 - Roure is polished and not very good any Route 3 - Ay Candemor is worth 5+ The extension to Route 5 - Espantocells is 6b. rock with a sign post on top of it, you need to con- more. Probably worth 6b now. Route 4 - Can Fanga is worth 6a Route 9 - Del Pelut is 6b+ tinue for 1km, not 550m, to the left turn. Route 5 - Shargamanta is only 6c Route 5 - Trimegesto has a dodgy first bolt and Page 66 - Soterrani - Jardi del Roure Route 10 - Tu no vadis is harder, 6c. the second is quite high. Possibly 6a. Route 7 - Love etc. is easier - 6a ish Page 165 - Les Gralles Some of the easy routes have been de-bolted in Page 49 - La Mussara - Sector La Proa Page 118 - Siurana - Campi Qui Pugui Page 69 - Soterrani - El Biombo order to put up some new routes in the middle of Route 12 La Primera del Estiu is probably 6b+ Route 23 - Isadora.. is 7b+. Route 10 is worth 6a. the pinnacles. The new routes don't look very over the top roof. Page 119 - Siurana - Can Gan Dionis good. The de-bolted rotues are, on Page 75 - Les Campinelles Route 2 - Escaralamoza is 6c. page 165 - Route 2, Route 3, Route 4, Route 7 Route 16 - Visula Persuasion is worth three stars. Route 3 - Eto e tota ihas poor bolts. and Route 8, and on page 167 - Routes 25 to 29.

Page 2 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99 MARGALEF EHIO MARGALEF - Can Torxa

Margalef is a pleasant little Can Torxa area which didn’t make the main guide. It has a good set of routes and some very interesting rock formations and should provide a good day’s entertainment for most teams.

3 9 THE ROUTES 2 10 The rock is a conglomerate, like that found at Montsant, but the buttresses are on a much smaller scale. Most of the climbing involves pulling on big pebbles or holes once filled by ex-pebbles. The 4 5 6 walls are sometimes steeply 7 12 11 undercut giving hard starts 8 but on many of the devel- 1 oped buttresses there are plenty of friendly slabby The valley of Margalef with El Laboratori and Can Llepafils on the right. Photo: Alan James CAN TORXA options as well. It is particu- The first quality buttress encountered on the road side of the EL TOXTO D’EN FREDI larly good in the lower grades which are sometimes lacking on certain Daurada crags. Those operating at 7a and stream also has some of the best routes of the whole valley. A small and relatively insignificant buttress further up the road. above may be a little disappointed but it could make a good rest day venue. APPROACH - It is possible to park under the crag but if these There are two worthwhile routes. spots are occupied park at the larger areas further back. APPROACH - This buttress is very much above the road. There is a small parking spot for 2 cars a bit further on. ASPECT AND CLIMATE x The left-hand side of this valley (looking up) is a complete sun- 1. Calatrava ...... 6a 5km A lone route up the short wall to the left of the main buttress. The base of this crag is very sandy but higher up the wall is more trap and can be even hotter than many of the other sun-traps in solid. Vilanova de Prades te Costa Daurada since it is also relatively sheltered. The other 2. Trumfus Petuts ...... 2x 5+ side, however, is in the shade for much of the day, unless you T701 A good finish on the upper wall. See photo on title page. 13. Project ...... Hard get here early, and can be a pleasant hot weather alternative. C242 2x 14. Project ...... Hard Prades 3. L’Escorpi ...... 6a APPROACH Margalef T701 A slightly better line to the right, sharing the same start. The valley is situated some distance to the west of the main 15. El Bocamoll del 2sx 6c+ areas covered in the book. The best road to follow is the C242 Montsant 2x Up orange streaks past a hole. Siurana 4. Juli Vert ...... 6a+ which goes through Cornudella. Head along this road, avoiding Cornudella A hard start off a pile of boulders. Well positioned higher up. Margalef T704 any turns to the right until you can turn left down a steep windy 16. Solikoi ...... 1x 6c Arboli 1x A very sandy start. road to Margalef. Clock the kilometres at the top of the hill and Scala Dei La 5. Somiaruites ...... 6b+ look out for a turning on the left after 6.3k. This leads up a wide Mussara The left wall of the gully. x valley with buttresses on either side. There are various parking 17. Via del Mingo ...... 6b C242 spots which are detailed on the map below and with the individ- 6. Follet tortuga ...... 1x 5+ Looks harder than 6b. Sandy steps to start. Slaby wall right of the gully. ual sector notes. 1x The next buttress along is El Laboratori (see next page). N420 7. Name Unknown ...... 6a El Toxto d’en Fredi A steep start with pleasant climbing above.

Reservoir 6.3 km from the El Toxto D’en Fredi Can Llepafils 8. Ivan Tres Potes . . .2psx 7b main road Can Si Fa o No Fot A powerful bulging start leads to a thin upper wall. Can Torxa 13 14 9. Supercalcárea . . . .2tsx 7a 2 cars Ruins El Laboratori Trend left towards the arete. 4 cars Margalef 2 cars 2 cars sx village 10. Name Unknown ...... (7a/b) The steep side wall. Unclimbed cliffs Can Pesafigues 11. Freekandó ...... 1x 6c 15 Sandy Can Verdures Cova Boix = pylon Not to scale 16 1x 17 12. El free Pendó ...... 6c ROAD The long grey wall behind a tree. Page 3 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99 MARGALEF - Can Lepafils MARGALEF - Can Lepafils ESI2 min

Main Right

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27 28 17 33 34 7 16 26 24 25 31 32 8 15 9 29 30 10 11 12 13 14

15. Puerto Murraco ...... 1x 6a 1x Slide around the edge of the low roof. 30. Tío raro ...... 5 FAR LEFT Steep start. The first routes are on a short wall beyond the main undercut 16. Desakato ...... x 6a EL LABORATORI buttress. 31. Air Bamba ...... x 5+ Further up the valley from Can Torxa the lower walls bulge over the road. These walls have plenty of bolt lines on them but most bx 17. Llepafils ...... 1x 5+ look like either extremely hard routes or very ambitious projects. 1. Tampak ...... 4+ Left of the scoop. 32. Fa fong ...... x 5 Infact the immense cave at the far end of the wall has the World’s most outrageously placed lower-off on its lip. 25m horizontal 2. A morro ...... x 5 x 33. Jungle-jungle ...... bx 6a roofs all around it and no visible holds! If you do feel like tackling 18. Pampa mik ...... 5 Right of the scoop. something a bit harder then the lines to the right of the buttress, 3. Sexi movie ...... x 6a bx before the cave, looked a bit more reasonable. 1x 34. Akimatoro ...... 5+ x 19. Trans ...... 4+ CAN LLEPAFILS 4. Korroscada ...... 6b+ The most extensive buttress in the valley is perched above the 20. Txak Park ...... x 4 x A high first bolt, but easy climbing. CAN SI FA NO FET - No Topo impressive bulging walls of El Laboratori. This has numerous 5. Eskorbuto ...... 6a Futher up the valley is another developed buttress above the pleasant slab routes especially in the lower grades. It is very road. The local topo and I disagree severely about the grades and exposed to the sun and can be incredibly hot. 6. Sociedad Alcohólica ...... x ? 21. A mi plin ...... x 5 lines here so I have included both. My grade is an appearance APPROACH - Drive down the valley past Can Torxa and continue Start up a steep bank. Break out left. grade only and is in brackets. past El Laboratori and the deep cave on a corner. Park on the APPROACH - Drive about 500m beyond the parking space for next bend. Walk up to the pylon and double back above the big MAIN The main buttress has an unfortunately undercut base giving x Can Lepafils. Park in a lay-by on the right just before a pylon and cave to reach the upper tier. 22. Pidle soccaret ...... 5+ most of the routes a first-move crux. Direct verison of the previous route. sign, on a bend where the reservoir appears. The path up to the buttress is in the trees opposite the pylon. 7. Titacorta ...... x 5+ 23. Miss Tela ...... x 6a+ Thin slab. Start up the steep bank. Name Unknown ...... x (6b) Far Left 8. Torrada negra ...... x 5+ Local topo has this as a project. Start up and around to the left RIGHT on a higher ledge. 9. Bombarda ...... x 6a The first routes encountered are a bit short and uninspiring but there are a few that look okay. Pilsen ...... x (7c/8a) Locally given 6c. Start from the higher ledge. This is up the wall 10. Les mosques 24. Tronco Quemac ...... x 4 left of the big rounded arete. tambe dormen ...... 1x 6a+ After a beefy start, climb the crack. 1x Cop de Cap ...... 2sfx (7a/b) 25. Katulina ...... 4+ Locally given 6c. A boulder problem start to the ledge (or walk in 5 6 Left of the big tree. under route 2). 1 11. Avi que no 4 has visit livingston ...... 1x 6b 1x 2 3 26. Rosco guarro ...... 5 2sfx Another beefy start. Right of the big tree. Figogol ...... 7a+ 1x Agreement! locally given 7a+. A short wall to the ledge. 12. Smuc ...... 6a+ 27. L’Homflor ...... x 5 20m to Main Sector An easier start if you step on the tree stump. Txana ...... x Hard! Locally given 6c - unbelievable! 28. Cutty Sark ...... x 4 13. Besigato ...... 1x 6b Hard start. Via del mingo ...... 2spx (7a/b) 29. Raticulin ...... 1x 5+ Locally 6c+. Start from gully behind the block. Steep start. 14. Callaunrato ...... 1x 6a+ Page 4 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99 MARGALEF - Can Verdures MARGALEF - Can Pesafigues RSOP7 min RSO5 min

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13 5 27 29 28 30 1 31 2 3 4 6 7 8 16 9 15 17 25 P P 26 24 12 P 18 Don’t bush No access 23 bash from Can 19 20 Pisafigues 22 From stream (2nd cairn) 21 From stream (1st cairn)

CAN PESAFIGUES CAN VERDURES The first buttress encountered on the far bank of the stream is This steep buttress is heavily undercut at the point where the heavily vegetated at its base. path arrives. The main area of interest is to the left where the 9. Galef ...... 2stx 7b APPROACH - From the first parking cross the stream and walk upper walls are more accessible. Sustained above the break. along the bed for about 300m. When you come to the first cairn The next routes are on the set-back buttress right of the APPROACH - From the first parking spot, by the ruin and small head up through the bushes. approach path. dam, cross the stream and walk along the right bank for about 2x 300m. The first cairn leads up to Can Pesafigues. The second 10. Verdures atómiques . . . . . 6c x cairn leads up to Can Verdures. Don’t try and get to this buttress Good climbing on the upper wall. 17. Project 27. Drac Sheran ...... 6a from Can Pesafigues without returning to the stream since the bush-bash is awful. 11. Project 18. Maar Galluf ...... x 6c 28. La senda de wenda ...... x 5+ Start up a white streak. A recessed crack. 1. El día de La Bestia . . . .tfx 7a+ 12. Bitx ...... 2stx 7b At the end of the cleared vegetation. A steep start but the main difficulties lie higher up. 19. Bulma ...... x 6b+ 29. Ulls ...... x 7a Left of the tree. 2. Baginades ...... x 6b+ 13. Ni poc ...... 1pstx 7b 30. El mostre Bú ...... x 6c+ Left of an orange streak. A steep starting bulge with some painful pockets. 20. Sense Pi ...... 1x 6c+ Behind the tree. 31. L’Estibador ...... x 6c 3. Kriliu ...... 1x 6b+ 14. Estilson ...... 1psx 7a The same steep start is the crux. 21. Crupa Aristo ...... x 6b+ 4. Murciegalus ...... 1x 6b+ Pocket at the start. Up and orange scoop. The next section has an impressive project. The only other routes COVA BOIX are to the right from the approach path. 22. Tasmanian devil ...... 1x 6b The third cairn on the stream-side path leads up to another but- 2sx tress, via a windy path. This is probably the most impressive but- 5. Gos roig ros boig . . . . . 6c 2x tress in the valley but so far only has two bolt lines. One looks Start from a block. 15. La pernillota 23. Campus ...... 6b+ about 7c/8a and was well chalked, the other looks impossible. del Passadena ...... x 6b A slab up the pillar. 6. Samson ...... tx 7a The wall and slim corner right of the roof. Technical moves on the upper wall. 24. El Pesafigues ...... 1x 6b 16. La feria Choquetin ...... tx 6b A steep start but a nice upper wall. 7. Carn D’Olla ...... 1tx 7a+ A thin slab. 25. Murdol ...... 1x 6b 8. El seynor de les mosques . .2x 6c+ The right wall and crack in the big red corner. The corner crack and fine upper groove. 26. Escargot Boobé ...... 1x 6c+ Tricky start then easier climbing just left of the arete.

Page 5 - Costa Daurada Update 2/12/99