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42 Cheers to £75K Yquem eventy-five thousand pounds, or US$122,433 or €85,613, for a bottle of is mind boggling. OK, Sit’s Château d’Yquem, but from 1811. It was the year Napoleon II was born. Little did he know his father would abdicate three years later, returning after 11 months to fight and lose the Battle of Waterloo. The man selling the wine says it is a good year (he would, wouldn’t he?), but it is still a long time ago. Good luck to purchaser Christian Vanneque. He seems 36 24 a nice guy and, pleasingly, says he is going to open and drink it when a suitable anniversary presents itself. I wish all fine wine or was drunk rather than salted away for future auctions. First-growth Bordeaux News 36 Cocktail Special have become like many houses and apartments in London 05 Business News A three-page behind-the-bars look at and southern England – an investment rather than 07 People and Events all that’s driving the thriving global something fit for first purpose. As a result prices spiral 08 Travel Retail News cocktail sector and all too many ordinary people can’t afford to buy a 10 What’s New home, let alone drink a bottle of Mouton or Lafite. 40 From Our WSET Correspondent The scotch and boys (and girls) are on to it as Profile International director David Wrigley MW well, packaging their wares in ever more ornate boxes 12 Martin Edgerton Gill takes the temperature in Japan that are tantamount to coffins as the liquid inside may From tea to G&T, it’s all about botanicals. never be drunk. Consigned to darkness, buried away in a Christian Davis meets the man behind 41 Wine warehouse or vault waiting to see the cold light of day in Edgerton David Longfield tests the best from an auctioneer’s showroom. Rioja Alavesa With the ‘taste’ for the best the west can offer cranking ISC up in Asian markets, not to mention wealthy collectors 28 International Spirits Challenge 42 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards worldwide, the chances of most of us actually drinking Whiskies – the medal winners Recognising excellence in design and Yquem or Latour seem to be getting more remote by the architecture, these awards attracted 330 minute. For the drinks industry I suppose it is good news Features entries from 51 countries – higher prices, greater profits, loads of media coverage. 24 Premium vodka Just seems a shame that most people never get to try the The sector has taken a dip over the past In the Zone really good stuff so they never get to measure themselves year. Hamish Smith investigates the causes 44 Bar Zone what people in our business are possibly raving about. Cocktail competition focus I think we’d all like to be a fly on the wall in Monsieur 30 Best Bars – UK Vanneque’s restaurant in Bali when he opens that bottle. Tom Sandham rounds up the top bars and 46 Departure Zone offers an insight into the results Glenfiddich competition; Book Shelf; Christian Davis Editor THAT very expensive wine august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 3 for breaking news visit drinksint.com News  Diageo pays £16m to New boards as Fortune settle bribery claims splits business

he Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) Division of Enforcement said: “For years, Diageo’s ortune Brands has announced the boards of in the US has found Diageo made “hundreds subsidiaries made hundreds of illicit payments to foreign Fdirectors for Beam Global after the planned Tof illicit payments” to foreign government government officials. As a result of Diageo’s lax oversight separation of its businesses, Beam and Fortune officials in India, Thailand and South Korea. and deficient controls, the subsidiaries routinely used Brands Home & Security. The SEC said Diageo had paid more than $2.7 third parties, inflated invoices and other deceptive devices In connection with the anticipated completion million through its subsidiaries to obtain “lucrative to disguise the true nature of the payments.” of the plan, Bruce Carbonari, chairman and chief sales and tax benefits relating to its Johnnie Walker Diageo said it “takes the SEC’s findings seriously executive officer of Fortune Brands, has decided and Windsor scotch whiskies, among other brands”. and regrets this matter”. It added: “Systems and to retire at the end of the year. While Diageo neither admitted nor denied the findings, controls have been enhanced in an effort to prevent Matt Shattock will be CEO of Beam and it agreed to pay more than $16 million to settle the the future occurrence of such issues and to reinforce, Fortune Brands hopes to complete the separation SEC’s charges. The company also agreed to “cease and everywhere the company operates, a culture of plan early in the fourth quarter. desist” from further violations. compliance and commitment to the principles For the complete list of board members, see Scott W Friestad, associate director of the SEC’s embodied in Diageo’s Code of Business Conduct.” drinksint.com. Upward trend in spirits

remiumisation is driving UK experienced in the on-trade last year. Pspirits volume and value growth Speaking about the premiumisation in the on and off-trade, according to of the spirits market, marketing William Grant & Sons UK subsidiary director Una McCullough described First Drinks. consumers in 2011 as being “more In its first market report, the drinks brand savvy” and said people are distributor and agent also noted the looking for provenance, authenticity, potential in the convenience and heritage and quality in brands. ‘gifting’ channels. “There’s a big growth Chris Mason, managing director opportunity in convenience,” said John of First Drinks, said: “Despite this Hyman, sales director. report being published during a very Hyman valued ‘gifting’ at £572m challenging time for the economy, it a year in the UK and said that, by clearly demonstrates the continued offering smaller bottle formats, such importance of premiumisation, best as 50cl and 35cl, retailers can make practice and working closely with Pernod has announced a joint venture with Avión to malt whisky, cognac and vodka more customers. produce and promote the ultra-premium tequila brand Avión. Pernod, accessible to consumers. “If these key trends are pursued, we the second largest drinks company in the world, will hold a minority The report also found innovation, can ensure the exciting evolution of interest in the JV and will be the exclusive worldwide distributor of the particularly the development of RTDs the drinks industry.” brand. Avión was created in July 2010 and is said to have become an (Ready to Drink), would continue to The ‘de-seasonality’ of consumption “ultra-premium tequila of choice in many high-end venues in the US”. be important, while cocktail culture was also highlighted as important for has increased, with a 36% rise the market’s ongoing health.

Supplier WJ Deutsch Edwin H Nielsen, the has Marlborough winery & Sons has formed a great-grandson of Bacardi launched pre-mixes has News joint venture with Adult founder Don Facundo Caribbean Cosmo and released a £12.99 sparkling Beverage Company to Bacardí Massó, has died Island Punch in 1-litre, Sauvignon Blanc in the UK distribute Adult Chocolate in Spain at the age of 12.5% abv pouches to through Matthew Clark and In Brief Milk in the US. The vodka 93. Facundo L Bacardi, the US and UK. Cans of Majestic from August, and drink is 20%abv and a 75cl chairman of Bacardi Malibu & Cola and Malibu Ocado and Tesco Wine from bottle costs $18.99. Limited, said Nielsen had & Cranberry, with an abv September. Industry stories from dedicated his life to the of 5%, have also been around the globe Bacardi company. launched to the UK. august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 5 News for breaking news visit drinksint.com  Hip-hop star’s Qream collaboration with Diageo celebrates ‘power’ of women

iageo has launched a vodka-based cream The music star said: “Qream was created liqueur in the US in partnership with hip-hop for contemporary women who work hard and want Dmusician Pharrell Williams. to relax with friends at the end of the day. Women Qream comes in strawberry crème and peach crème make up half the population and Qream is about flavours and Diageo describes it as ultra-premium. celebrating that power. To work with Diageo in According to a statement from the company: “Qream bringing something original like Qream and the notion has been developed with a specific demographic of North of delicious living to market has been a thrill.” American women in mind.” Qream is 99% lactose free and has an rrp of $29.99. The 12.5%abv liqueur is to launch in LA, New York Diageo also partners musician Sean ‘P Diddy’ and Miami at events hosted by Williams. Combs with its Ciroc vodka brand. Tesco ramps up Champagne boss global wine offer esco, the UK-based international multiple retailer, is urges ‘humility’ Tgearing up to improve its wine offering to all its stores around the world. Dan Jago, Tesco’s category director for , wners of traditional drinks products middle of the table. In Europe, he said, you would and spirits, told Drinks International the company has such as champagne and cognac have expected to see champagne as the appointed an Australian to head up a new section looking at Oneed to show some humility aperitif. the specific wine needs of stores in each of the 14 countries in their dealings with new emerging He said: “We export to 80 countries in which Tesco retails. markets, according to the president and and the more we travel the more we He said Duncan MacDonald, who trained as a winemaker CEO of Groupe Renaud Cointreau. discover new behaviours and new ways and was formerly with Australian wine producer Yalumba, Jean-Pierre Cointreau (right) was of drinking. We need to show some is about to embark on a fact-finding trip to stores in Asia. speaking at a lunch in London to unveil humility sometimes when we see how “We are looking to come up with a consolidated group of Champagne Gosset Grand Blanc de people like products to be drunk.” between 100 and 250 wines which will be made available to Blancs and Cognac Frapin Signature. Talking specifically about cognac, he stores in the various countries,” said Jago. Cointreau was commenting on how many said: “Some have it with water; some have it He foresaw the wines breaking down roughly into batches traditional products are used and consumed chilled. In the US they have it in .” of around 25 for entry-level, mid-price, Tesco Finest own- in different markets and cultures. He cited an He commented that in Scandinavia and parts label, brands and exclusive labels. example of seeing a wedding celebration in Asia of central and eastern Europe, (spirits) drinkers He cited Korea’s taste for sweet US wines as the sort of where bottles of cognac were lined up along the “understand what spirits are”. instance that has to be taken into account when looking at wines for that country. At the moment Asian countries are preoccupied with red wine but Jago sees a time when white Boutique Bar show line-up announced wines will find their place. eynote speakers for this year’s Boutique & Techniques; and Andy Campana and Kevin Tesco has 2,715 stores in 14 countries including the KBar Show (Sept 20-21, Royal Horticultural Armstrong on the DNA of the Cocktail. UK, US, China, Japan, India, Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Halls, London) include: Dave Broom and Brands launching include Ish gin, Rigg’s Shrub Ireland, Turkey, Hungary, Poland, the Czech Republic, Tristan Stephenson of Purl bar on cognac; Tony and Pistonhead . Additional features include Slovakia. That represents 36.7m sq ft. of selling space and Conigliaro on Esoteric Cocktail Ingredients, the UKBG Competition Bar. the company employs 293,676 people. Marian Beke (Nightjar) on Bartending Tools boutiquebarshow.com/[email protected]

From August 14 Carlsberg Moët & Chandon has Aperol, nicknamed Monin has launched Sweet UK will import, market and created a ‘chalk-written’ “aperitivo, poco alcoholico” & Sour, a ready-to-use Top 5 stories distribute Staropramen label for its Grand Vintage because of its modest 11% cocktail for the on behalf of brand owner champagne. The new look abv, has gone from 500,000 on-trade. It is made from on drinksint.com StarBev. The rights were is inspired by the tradition nine-litre cases in 2004 to sugar, Sicilian lemons and a 1 Premiumisation driving UK spirits previously held by Stella of using chalk plates to two million cases. Growth ‘hint’ of lime and is for 2 Show some humility, says Cointreau Artois owner AB Inbev. identify the different has come primarily from use in Margaritas, Daiquiris 3 Pernod Ricard in Tequila JV vintages in the Moët & Italy, Austria and Germany. and Martinis. 4 Millionaires Club 2011 published Chandon cellars in Epernay. 5 Eristoff vodka goes for Gold  6 Drinks International drinksint.com august 2011 People

Appointments Intervitis Interfructa Diageo has appointed mobility”. Ricard’s new job title is to be resigned as company CEO. Loubser, August 2-4 a head for its Western managing director, distribution network. who has been leading the company Cape Town, SA Europe division Anna Malmhake, currently marketing since January 2007, will be replaced in intervitis-interfructa.co.za with John Kennedy director of The Absolut Company, will an acting capacity by André van der becoming chief succeed Ricard as chairman & CEO of Veen, a member of the KWV board and Gin Mare Cocktail operating officer from . Noël Adrian has been senior executive at HCI, KWV’s largest Competition September 1. Kennedy appointed deputy managing director of shareholder. The board said that, at September 1-3 is currently managing John Kennedy Pernod Ricard Europe; Michel Mauran is this stage of the company’s internal Ibiza director for Diageo to become MD of Pernod Ricard Italia; restructuring, it was opportune to effect mediterraneaninspirations. Ireland. Diageo has Fabrice Audan becomes MD of Pernod a change in the leadership. com also announced two Ricard Nordic; Christophe Lemarie is senior appointments appointed managing director of Pernod Primo Bar, in London, has made Sydney Bar Show in Britain and Ireland. Ricard Hellas; Franck Lapeyre, becomes Alberto Sanna bar September 11-14 Andrew Cowan MD of Pernod Ricard travel retail manager. The Italian- Moore Park, Sydney becomes country Americas. Jean-Manuel Spriet, currently born barshow.com.au director for Diageo MD of Pernod Ricard UK, is appointed has worked for GB, and David Smith David Smith MD of Pernod Ricard Korea and will be the Millennium Oktoberfest country director replaced by David de Mardt, currently Hotel in Mayfair, September 17-October 3 for Diageo Ireland. MD of Pernod Ricard South Africa. Harvey Nichols, Munich Cowan, who is Conor McQuaid, currently international Intercontinental Alberto Sanna oktoberfest.de currently commercial commercial director of Irish Distillers, is Hotel in London, director, Ireland, will appointed MD of Pernod Ricard South Pitrizza Hotel Porto Cervo and the TFWA Cannes report to Andrew Africa. Laurent Pillet, currently MD of Grand Hotel Savoia Hotel in Italy. Primo September 18-22 Morgan, president Pernod Ricard Andes, is appointed MD Bar, which opened in 20101, is on the Cannes of Diageo Europe. of Pernod Ricard Sub-Saharan Africa. first floor of Park Plaza Westminster tfwa.com Smith, currently sales Andrew Cowan He will be replaced by Benjamin Halb, Bridge London. director for Diageo currently finance director of Pernod Boutique Bar Show GB, will report to Western Europe’s Ricard Hellas and of the Greece- Carlos Santana September 21-22 John Kennedy. Turkey cluster. has become joint London owner of Casa Noble boutiquebarshow.com Irish Distillers CEO Bacardi has appointed Robert Furniss- tequila in Mexico. The is to leave his post to join Pernod’s Roe president of Bacardi North America. musician has also Whisky Exchange group general He succeeds John P Esposito, who is to joined the board of Whisky Show management team retire. Furniss-Roe will be based at the the organic tequila October 7-8 in Paris. Ricard’s company’s Americas headquarters in Coral company in a move Carlos Santana London move is one of Gables, Florida. He most recently served hoped to boost whisky-show.com several announced as regional president of Latin America and the popularity of the brand. The Casa by Pernod Ricard “in vice president of global sales. Noble family of “ultra premium” Single London Cocktail line with its policy of Estate Organic – which includes Week internal promotion South African wine cooperative KWV Crystal, Reposado and Añejo – is October 10-15 and international Alexandre Ricard has announced that Thys Loubser has currently exported to 23 countries. London londoncocktailweek.com Editor Christian Davis Commercial Director Justin Smith Accounts Annette O’Connell Cape Wine Europe +44 (0)1293 590047 +44 (0)1293 590041 +44 (0)1293 590051 October 11-12 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] London Deputy Editor Lucy Britner Senior Account Manager Publisher capewineeurope.com +44 (0)1293 590046 Carmen Poel Francesch Russell Dodd [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590042 [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590052 UK RumFest Reporter Hamish Smith Senior Account Manager Roger Betriu [email protected] October 15-16 +44 (0)1293 590045 +44 (0)1293 590043 London [email protected] [email protected] ideageneration.co.uk Production Editor Jaq Bayles Events Coordinators +44 (0)1293 590050 +44 (0)1293 590048 Monica Tapias/Nikayla Langley Wine for Asia [email protected] [email protected] October 27-28 Events Account Manager Jo Morley Drinks International, Zurich House, Singapore, Suntec +44 (0)1293 590044 East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS [email protected] wineforasia.com United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1293 590040

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 7 Travel Retail

DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE

Kosher vodkas headed for US Heinemann launches In Brief Angus Dundee duty free ✈Distillers will launch exclusive Hennessy Tomintoul 21 Year Old at S-based duty free drinks the TFWA World Exhibition Udistributor Haleybrooke Germany’s largest next month. Priced at around £60 in the UK and International has signed an  travel retail company €70 in Europe, the new agreement with Polish spirits has secured a major coup by whisky is the first new company Exclusive Brands to launching an exclusive Hennessy expression to be released represent two new kosher vodkas cognac at its Terminal 1B shop at by the Speyside distillery in 2011. Tomintoul 21 Year in the duty free markets of North Frankfurt airport. Old fills a gap in the range America, South America and the Hennessy Paradis Impérial is between Tomintoul 33 Year Caribbean. a blend of eaux-de-vie from the Old and Tomintoul 16 Year Hava Nagila 19th and 20th centuries. It is Old. kosher vodka and priced at €1,800 (£1,583) and Cross-Channel ferry Exclusive kosher will be available exclusively with ✈line SeaFrance has vodka, which are Heinemann at Frankfurt airport listed Orbis Aged World both positioned until the end of this month. The Whiskey onboard its shops. in the super- cognac will be promoted on the Orbis is an unusual blend of whiskies from five countries: premium and retailer’s dedicated Heinemann’s Scotland, Japan, Ireland, premium Choice podium, an in-store America and Canada. UK- segments, have area set aside for launches and presented in a crystal decanter, Heinemann’s Choice stages,” said based company World of already been exclusive promotions. which has been designed by Rüdiger Stelkens, director purchase Patria distributes Orbis in released in the Created by Hennessy master Stéphanie Balini. , tobacco & confectionery Europe.

Polish duty free Yann Fillioux, the new It features a crystal stopper for Gebr. Heinemann. “In keeping Korean retailer and domestic cognac is inspired by a rare cognac and an 18-carat gold label, which with our slogan, It Has to be ✈Lotte Duty Free has markets. that the Hennessy family sent to evokes the costumes of the Russian Heinemann, we want to give announced plans to open “We already the Dowager Empress of Russia in Imperial court. travellers something they won’t its first overseas duty free store at fast-growing have some 1818. She then gave it as a gift to “We aim to present customers find at any other airport. Hennessy Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta vodkas in our her son, Tsar Alexander I. with exclusive highlights and Paradis Impérial is perfectly suited international airport. portfolio, but Hennessy Paradis Impérial is surprising campaigns on the to this ambition.” The 900sq m outlet, these are our first kosher vodkas,” which will stock a full said Patrick Nilson, president of range of duty free goods, including liquor, will open Haleybrooke International. later this year. “I think there has been a need Glenlivet master distiller shows for quality kosher vodkas and these two brands will certainly his Reserve at Heathrow airport fill that void. Both Exclusive kosher vodka, which will compete Pernod Ricard Travel Retail has released an exclusive The Glenlivet single malt whisky in the premium category, and expression with World Duty Free’s (WDF) UK Hava Nagila kosher vodka, airport outlets for an exclusive two-month which is a super-premium vodka, period. originate from Israel and are The 40% abv Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve, which was created by recently made with 100% grain spirit and appointed master distiller Alan Winchester The Absolut Company spring water.” and does not bear an age statement, is priced ✈has launched an Two former Belvedere at £34.99 with WDF and will be positioned at ultra-premium vodka called Absolut Elyx into executives, Czarek Potocki and a 10%-15% premium to The Glenlivet 12 Year global travel retail. The Wojtek Wydro, who together have Old in other markets when it gains a wider travel retail release in September. brand is distilled from a more than 20 years’ experience To support the launch at London Heathrow reconditioned copper still of the marketing of international promotional Glenlivet Whisky Walls have dating back to 1929, and spirits and wines brands, head up been installed in Terminals 3 and 5. Alongside made from single-estate winter wheat and pure the Krakow-based firm Exclusive the walls hostesses are on hand to educate travellers and offer them the chance to Smailes said: “The Glenlivet Master Distiller’s spring water. The new Brands, which is backed by a sample and have their purchases gift- Reserve is the fourth product in the portfolio vodka made its travel retail number of Israeli investors. wrapped. Ads for the new whisky also appear exclusive to travel retail. We strive to work debut at Sydney, São Paulo- on British Airways boarding passes. with our retail partners to bring premium, Guarulhos, Rio de Janeiro- Commenting on the launch, Pernod exclusive products to their customers to add Galeão and Frankfurt Ricard Travel Retail marketing director John to the retailer’s offering and the consumer’s International airports last travel experience.” month.

8 Drinks International DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE Absolut opens cocktail bars on Korean Air’s new Airbus fleet

Absolut vodka has opened branded “Designing for an aircraft was a new  cocktail bars onboard Korean Air’s world to us, though we have an extensive new fleet of Airbus A380 Superjumbo aircraft. experience in building bars in all imaginable Korean Air, the world’s largest inflight duty kinds of environments,” said Anders Olsson, free retailer, will have 10 A380s flying the director of global travel retail for The Absolut globe by the end of 2011 (with a further five Company. “The merging of design and coming into service by 2014). extreme high-tech security issues was exciting Each aircraft, the first of which went and most challenging. into operation in June, boasts two Absolut “In aviation, every detail is crucial, in the Celestial Bars in Business Class and another true meaning of that word. Adding another in First Class. five centimetres to the bar? Forget about it. The Absolut branding in the Celestial Want to put a refrigerator here? Well, where Bars is minimal; there are no visible logos, do you want to get the electricity? What for instance. Instead, the Absolut branding do you want to sacrifice – the toilet or the is communicated in a designed pattern microwave? inspired by traditional Korean woodcarvings “Everything is stripped down to the decorated with the Absolut bottle shape. barest essentials to meet security and spatial Two of the bars are self-service, while at demands.” the other a bartender will serve a range of In addition to the bars the Absolut brand exclusively created Absolut-based cocktails. is showcased in the aircraft’s onboard duty The unmanned bars will stock recipe free store. Korean Air is the world’s biggest card ideas so that passengers can mix their inflight duty free retailer with annual sales of own drinks. $200m in 2010. A de Fussigny growth curve in travel retail

ognac house A de Fussigny has reported Ctriple-digit sales growth in global travel- retail since the brand was relaunched into the channel in 2009. Following a sales drive in the travel-retail markets of Europe, Asia and the Middle East the brand has picked up listings with France’s largest duty free retailer, Aelia; Israeli operator James Richardson; Baltic ferry line Viking Line, Taiwanese airport retailer EverRich; as well as onboard Korean Air. The A de Fussigny brand, which sports contemporary outer packaging and bottle design, will be exhibiting at the TFWA World Mount Gay drops anchor in Dubai Exhibition in Cannes next month (Red The world’s largest duty free retailer, Dubai Duty Free claims the brand has strong maritime links, being the Village K21). (DDF), staged a high-profile launch of Mount Gay rum in first rum to be exported from Barbados in 1703. It also Founded in 1814 by Italian merchant its stores at Dubai International airport last month. sponsors more than 100 sailing regattas worldwide. Alfonso de Fussini, the A de Fussigny brand In collaboration with brand owner Rémy Cointreau, Premium rum is a growing category for DDF, showing was bought by Cognac Ferrand founder Jean- Global Travel Retail DDF presented the Barbadian rum double-digit growth last year. Other brands stocked by on a bespoke display stand, which was shaped like the the UAE-based operator include Ron Zacapa 23 Year Dominique Andreu from Lafragette for an bows of an ocean-going yacht. The rum’s manufacturer Old, Bacardi 8 Años and Matusalem Grand Reserve. undisclosed sum in 2008.

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 9 vintage

d’Yquem Sauternes casks for 10 years. pro u d moment Glenmorangie Pride 1981 There are only 1,000 bottles and the whisky has Brand owner The Glenmorangie Company been bottled at cask strength – 56.7%abv. Markets Exclusive outlets worldwide The package is a collaboration between French Price £2,500 (UK) designer Laurence Brabant, who designed the barrique-style Baccarat crystal decanter, and Dutch Contact Sian Deegan [email protected] furniture designer Wouter Scheublin, who designed the box. Glenmorangie Pride 1981 is a 28-year-old whisky The Glenmorangie Company is part of Louis matured in oak casks for 18 years and ex-Château Vuitton Moët Hennessy.

Home grown La Umbra Kilchoman 100% Islay Single Malt Merlot 2009 Brand owner Halewood Brand owner Kilchoman Romania Distillery Company Price £5.99 Price , €78/£69/US$112 Markets UK Markets Global Contact Matthew Johnson, Chalié Contact Anthony Wills, Richards, customer services +44 managing director, anthony.wills@ (0)845 850 4405 Champagne kilchomandistillery.com Romanian winery Halewood Gosset Grand Kilchoman, Islay’s farm distillery, Romania has secured a national Blanc de Blancs has released its first single malt listing in the UK’s produced from barley which is Waitrose stores for its La grown, malted, distilled, matured and Umbra Merlot. Brand owner Groupe Renauld bottled at the distillery. La Umbra is said to Cointreau It has been matured for three years represent “a new era Price €78/£69/US$111 in first-fill bourbon barrels from of fresh, lively wines Markets Global Buffalo Trace Distillery, Kentucky, US, Kilchoman 100% Islay is available launched by Halewood in 29 markets worldwide and 11,300 Contact McKinley Vintners and is lightly peated and bottled at Romania following 50% abv. bottles have been released. significant investment in +44 207 928 7300 planting international [email protected] grape varieties and using international Champagne Gosset has launched added spice winemaking an addition to its Antique range of techniques”. vintage blends – Grand Blanc de Kahlua The wines are all Blancs. This combination of 100% single estate, hand- Chardonnay grapes from three Brand owner Pernod Pernod Ricard US has announced it will add to picked grapes, from vintages (2003, 2004 and 2005) its Kahlúa coffee liqueurs range with the launch vineyards in Dealu Ricard US joins Grande Réserve, Grand Rosé of Cinnamon Spice. Mare, Murfatlar and and Grand Millésime and is a tribute Price $20 Due for release in the US in October, the new Transylvania. to the blending skills of Gosset’s Markets US flavour will be available to the on and off-trade, cellar master, Jean-Pierre Mareigner. joining original Kahlúa, Kahlúa Especial, Kahlúa Mareigner selected grapes from Contact pernod-ricard-usa.com French Vanilla, Kahlúa Hazelnut and Kahlúa Mocha. just 15 villages and the new Grand The 20% abv product is described as “a Blanc de Blancs is aged in deep robust blend of rum, 100% Arabica coffee and cellars for at least five years. traditional Mexican spices” and will be available “This new blend is bursting with in 5cl and 75cl sizes, retailing at $20 per bottle finesse, elegance and freshness,” (75cl). says international director Philippe Manfredini. lively

10 Drinks International What’s New spirit of france Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte 35th Auchentoshan 1999 Anniversary Bordeaux Cask Matured limited edition Brand owner Morrison Bowmore Brand owner Nicolas Feuillatte Price €53/£46.99/US$76 Price €33/£29 Markets Global Markets France and UK Contact [email protected] Contact Dominique Lahure, [email protected] Triple-distilled single malt Auchentoshan launched a limited edition 1999 Bordeaux Cask Matured for this year’s Bastille Day The cellar master has crafted in festivities. this limited edition a blend of three The cask strength, non chill-filtered spirit was matured in French varieties: Pinot Noir (30%), Pinot oak and the whisky is said to have “a pleasantly bitter sharpness Meunier (30%) and Chardonnay that perfectly matches the sweet Auchentoshan character”. (40%), all aged for five years. Jeremy Stephens, Auchentoshan’s senior blender, said of the The champagne is straw- limited edition: “Different wood finishes are becoming increasingly coloured in appearance, “revealing popular, but it’s pretty rare to find a whisky which has been 100% tremendous clarity and brightness”. matured in wine so this is something very special”. The company says: “On the nose, the aromas are direct and intense, epitomising the mastery and JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABEL brilliance of the cellar master. The Penfolds notes follow in succession, wavering JASPER GOODALL PACK between citrus, fresh Brand owner Diageo fruit and dried fruit. The palate is generous €24.99 (1 litre) Range Price and well-structured, Brand owner Treasury Wine Estates Markets Global – 1,000 bottles, striking a beautiful 250 for GTME Price Bluestone 10 year old Tawny balance between € Contact not applicable (£21/ 25-35), Grandfather Rare Liqueur power, elegance and € Diageo GTME has launched a limited edition Tawny (£84/ 100-135), Great Grandfather freshness.” Rare Tawny (£170/€193-199)

pack for Johnnie Walker Black Label in a heritage collaboration with Jasper Goodall, “one of Markets Europe the most influential graphic artists of the Contact Treasury Wine Estates, past decade”. The design carries the artist’s +44 (0)20 8843 8400 reinterpretation of the Striding Man icon, the tribute to the founder of Johnnie Walker that These wines are said has graced the bottle since 1908 in a series to be a true taste of of incarnations created by leading illustrators the Penfolds heritage, of the day. fortified wines having been the first wines created by the Penfolds on the wing family some 165 years ago. The wines are based Black Grouse Limited Edition on Shiraz, Mourvèdre and RSPB Wales smaller percentages of Brand owner Edrington Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Price £16.49 They are all aged Markets UK only in traditional oak Contact black-grouse.com casks, gaining in concentration, Maxxium UK is releasing a limited-edition richness and Welsh language presentation box for The complexity as Black Grouse to celebrate 100 years of the they mature. RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) in Wales. Most of the 100 presentation boxes will be auctioned or raffled by RSPB Wales to raise funds for conservation work at its Lake Vrynwy reserve. The remainder will masterful be available to win in competitions running throughout the year. Information The Black Grouse has a long-standing Products launched within the past two relationship with the RSPB and to date has months are eligible for inclusion within donated more than £300,000 towards the this section. Please submit your products protection of the endangered black grouse. for consideration to: [email protected] august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 11 Profile Gin down to a tea

Martin Edgerton Gill is a true entrepreneur – successfully turning his hand from tea to something a little stronger and creating a blend that’s raising some eyebrows. Christian Davis meets the toast of London

Engaging: In 1968 Gill, as marketing director at Brooke Bond, won the Advertising Association public speaking competition

14 Drinks International Profile

in is cool. There was a time when Gin & Tonic was the tipple his fortune trading timber in Russia, Hence the ‘Edgerton’ of the middle and upper classes, mainly in southern England middle name. and outposts of the British Empire. It was all about a Gordon’s So Gill went to Spain to sit in the sun and watch the ice in & Schweppes in the UK and, for those who travelled, maybe a his G&T melt as he savoured it. “I got bored. I missed the Beefeater or Tanqueray. Then we had Bombay Sapphire and, buzz,” he admits ruefully. “I was sitting on the terrace with fast forwarding, we now have Hendrick’s, Beefeater 24, Oxley a G&T. If there is a product that is most associated with – gin has gone bananas. There is Gin Mare, the Mediterranean London, it is gin. So, I rang my accountant and asked: ‘Is Ggin with southern European botanicals, and even a coconut there a London gin company?’ gin in Hoxton. Quite a few of these newcomers sail close to “He rang back and said there isn’t. So, I founded the the fine line dividing gin and vodka. For the drink to be a gin, London Gin Company. I got Gonzalez Byass to handle our the predominant botanical should be juniper. That isn’t always distribution in Germany and Spain. They liked my gin but the case. said it was too much like Beefeater. They wanted something Now there is a parallel between gin and tea – and posher, so I came up with the idea of a blue gin,” he says. that is where Martin Edgerton Gill comes in. Anyone in “Friends of ours like Bombay Sapphire. They liked the the wine or spirits industry who has ever been to a tea bottle but the gin is like every other bloody gin. So I did a factory or mixed with tea will have been struck blue gin in a white bottle,” says Gill triumphantly. by the similarities between tea blending and blending the So, the vital ingredient in London No 1 Original Blue ingredients that go into flavouring spirits. Also tea and the is root of Camelia, sourced from China, and drinks various herbal and fruit infusions that are lumped together writer Fiona Beckett in UK newspaper The Guardian as ‘tea’ are basically the same as botanicals that go into gin. recommended it back in April for the royal wedding. Here Gill is a former marketing director of Brooke Bond, a are her notes: “London No 1 Original Blue Gin (£26-£27, famous name in tea. In the late 1960s he took the market ocado.com, thedrinkshop.com, thewhiskyexchange.com; share of the still privately-owned company from 30% to 47% abv), which is flavoured with bergamot and coloured 40% of the total UK tea market. No mean feat when you with gentian. Perfect for making blue Martinis, should the consider what a huge, static, staid sector the British tea impulse grab you.” Endorsement indeed. market is. He took the company into tea bags and grabbed brand leadership within six months. He was a director at 33. Latest creation Gill then left to start a small, upmarket tea business, Having made more than a few bob – or euros or dollars which he built up and sold in 1977. He then decided to take – on that gin, dapper dabbler Gill thought he would have a year off. another go. So now we have Edgerton gin. Pink this time, the colour comes from pomegranate but the ‘special’ Herbal high botanical ingredient is damiana, long used in Mexico as an Gill takes up the story: “I met a German in New York, as aphrodisiac. Need one say more? you do. He looked like a Prussian cavalry officer but he Gill says: “The tea tasting experience was really helpful. had brand leadership in herbal tea in Germany. He asked: I have become quite good at tasting. It has been enormous ‘Why not sell herbal teas in London?’ I visited his amazing fun. The first month Edgerton was the best selling gin in factory. Now, I was in my late 30s and I said to him: ‘I am Harrods. Everyone really liked it.” not going to spend the best years of my life building the After all these years of wheeling and dealing, what has business only for you to take it.’ Gill learnt and what recommendation does he proffer? “We launched the London Herb & Spice Company – “Don’t cut corners. Go for quality. It is all about quality. If 70% mine, 30% his. Within 10 years we had 70% of the I made one mistake in the past, it has been trying too many herbal tea market (in the UK) and in 1988 we sold it to things at the same time.” Premier Brands for £5.5 million,” says Gill proudly. So, Edgerton gin. Any takers? DI He stayed on for three years as Premier’s international director. “It was a nice way to see the world and fly business The Drinks Shop says class,” he quips. “I kept up Edgerton Gin: Drink Pink and Taste Paradise my contacts and I sold more There are many on the market. Most are white, a few Ridgways tea in the US than they are blue, but now comes something rare and very fine: could make.” London’s first Pink Gin. The pinkness derives from the He left in 1991, aged 52. As you pomegranate, noted in antiquity as ‘that most salutiferous probably will have ascertained of trees’ and giving a beckoning blush to the spirit. by now, this man is a born This is the first sign, the flag if you like, of the remarkable entrepreneur. A dapper properties of this super-premium gin. Now to be found in 72 now and obviously the very best bars, restaurants and off-licences in town, enjoying life, he has Original Pink has crisp citrus top notes, with a smooth, the right attitude and delicately spicy development thanks to grains of paradise. a sense of humour. It owes its blush to pomegranate, and a hint of mint Apparently, his great- comes from Damiana – the invigorating plant of Mexico. grandfather was Lord Yet, for all its originality, Edgerton is reassuringly and Edgerton, who hailed unmistakably in the tradition of great London dry gins. from Yorkshire and made

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 13 International Spirits Challenge

s the three days of judging in the 2011 International Spirits Challenge Whiskies section neared completion, the feeling of the judging panel was that it had been a tougher process thanA ever. Chairman of judges John Ramsay said: “The percentage of whiskies awarded medals is high WHISKIES this year. Not many were eliminated.” The high number of Silver medals, he said, and the fact that The scoring was tight in many ISC only 10 whiskies overall were not awarded a medal, was an indication of quality. Whiskies categories this year, resulting Consultant Robert Hicks added: “The quality standard in each of the ranges had improved, so it in much debate to decide the standout was more difficult for whiskies to stand out. The ones that shone through really did shine through.” entries. David Longfield observes The tasting is a heavy workload on the judges’ palates, with about 350 whiskies from around the world to be sniffed, tasted and assessed at least once, across the three days. “This is quite intense, and you’re tasting everything,” said Whyte & Mackay’s Richard Paterson. “In my daily work I can nose 200 to 300 samples in a day, but that’s at a pace of six casks a minute. And when you’re doing this for your own blends you know exactly what you’re looking for.” For Paterson, to achieve a Gold medal in the ISC requires: “Harmony, elegance – everything coming together with no ragged edges. And everything you find on the nose should be reflected on the palate.” Even the most experienced of master blenders will tell you they are still discovering new aromas or flavour elements, and one that cropped up in the tasting this year was shellac – a form of resin used in French polishing which, said Gordon Motion, The whiskies judges (l-r) master blender Irish Distillers; Gordon Motion, reminds him of his father’s workshop. Robert Hicks, consultant; David master blender The Edrington Group; Jimmy Stewart, The Balvenie malt master, William Grant Russell, master distiller Wild Turkey Bourbon; Entertaining & Sons; Tetsuji Hisamitsu, chief blender Nikka Caroline Martin, master blender Diageo; Richard In entertaining style, Diageo’s Caroline Martin Whisky; Chairman: John Ramsay, master blender, Paterson, master blender Whyte & Mackay; Seiichi commented on the aroma of “squashed caterpillars” retired, The Edrington Group; Billy Leighton, Koshimizu, chief blender Suntory Whisky; in one sample. The chemical compound involved, she explained, is DMTS – dimethyl trisulphide – although she admitted not having conducted any clean, good quality distillation. At the end, you’re lies at the heart of a brand’s identity. The Balvenie’s specific experiments on caterpillars to prove a link. looking for complexity and how all the elements David Stewart said: “For bigger brands, which may DMTS is characterised by a sulphurous aroma work together.” contain many different whiskies, the blender knows found naturally in cooked onion, garlic, cabbage While searching for the “wow”, judges commented if stocks of one malt are low, he can use another with and coffee, as well as being associated with savoury, they were observing new styles coming through. similar characteristics from a different distillery, so ‘meaty’ aromas such as cooked beef. Robert Hicks said “Marketing departments are pushing for more styles yes, there should be consistency in the blends. And that, for him, it relates more to the smell of “walking to address specific markets and tastes,” said Hicks, whisky consumers know what they are drinking – through green ferns”, but either way, the sample in while Edrington’s Gordon Motion added: “It’s a they will quickly notice if there are changes.” question was one of the handful deemed not up to the lot easier [for a marketing department] to quickly Richard Paterson added: “When we’re judging, standard required of an ISC award. increase sales of a new whisky than something they we’re not trying to spot the brand, just whether the With the nine scoring judges marking each sample already have.” blender has done his job properly or not. It’s really in out of 20 points, scores of 19 or 20 are rare and But brand loyalty is strong in the sector so, the selection: picking the right age of whiskies at the hard-won. To achieve the maximum, said Paterson: said Caroline Martin, the marketing challenge is various stages of production.” “You have to be flawless, like a diamond. To score in sustaining those new sales. “People like to try “Over the years, one of our functions as ISC well, whiskies have to have impact – the wow something new on the shelf,” she said. “It’s whether judges is to promote quality,” said Leighton. “The factor.” Irish Distillers’ Billy Leighton added: “It has they come back to buy it again that matters.” expectation of the judges is high, and our intention is to be in the style of the category, then it has to be In the all-important blended category, consistency to raise the quality bar every year.”

AUGUST 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 15 International Spirits Challenge

GOLD SCOTCH

The Naked Grouse (The Edrington Group) Standard blends up to 11 years old Good depth and maturity. Long, rich sherried finish Bunnahabhain 18 Year Islay (Burn Stewart) Distillers’ single malts, Islay, 13 to 20 years old Sherried aroma, with a rich, full flavour and good balance

Dalmore Aurora 45 Year Highland Kingdom 30 Year (Hiscot Co) (Whyte & Mackay) Independent blends 21 years plus Distillers’ single malts 21 years plus Very good depth, richness and maturity, Mature and spicy, good top notes medium-sweet and long on the palate. from palate, with dark chocolate richness and orange peel

James Martin’s 20 Year (Glenmorangie Company) Premium blends 12 to 20 years old Good depth, medium-sweet and fruity, with spice and honey to balance

The Balvenie Portwood Tesco Speyside Malt 21 Year Speyside 12 Year (Whyte & Mackay) (William Grant & Sons) Own label single malts up to 12 years Distillers’ single malts 21 years plus Showing light American oak, Rich, full, sherried aroma. Spanish oak, BEST IN CATEGORY BEST balanced with good depth and a spicy resin flavour with a long, rich finish medium-sweet finish

16 Drinks International SCOTCH GOLD WINNERS

Hunter’s Glen 8 Year Aberlour 16 Year Double Cask Highland (Lidl UK) (Chivas Brothers) Own-label blends up to 11 years old Scotch single malts SCOTCH Good balance of oak and fruit, hints of Medium-full aroma, good depth of palate, well balanced marzipan with a medium-dry finish.

The Balvenie Signature 12 Year Speyside (William Grant & Sons) Distillers’ single malts up to 12 years old Medium-full Speyside style, medium- sweet on finish. Invergordon Single Grain 1973 (Whyte & Mackay) Black Bull 40 Year (Duncan Taylor) Single grains Scotch blends Catto’s Blended 25 Year Rich and full aroma, good balance Good, balanced maturity. Exotic, (International Beverage) of wood and spirit maturation, and a with cinnamon spice and a long Super-premium blends 21 years plus medium-sweet finish medium-dry finish. Rich, full, American oak palate, hints of shellac, ripe fruits and a long, medium-sweet finish

Glenmorangie Lasanta 12 Year Highland (The Glenmorangie Company) Clynelish Distillers’ single malts up to 12 years old Distillers Edition 1993 (Diageo) Good maturation, flowery bourbon Scotch single malts aromas. Notes of crème brûlée on a Good depth and maturity, rich full flavour with rich, full palate vanilla and spicy fruitcake.

Dalmore Astrum 40 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Scotch single malts Rich, full aromas with Spanish oak. Chocolate Monkey Shoulder and marzipan on the palate. (William Grant & Sons) Distillers’ blended malts Dewar’s 18 Year Founder’s Reserve (John Possesses great balance of oak, fruit Dewar & Sons) and smoky character Scotch blends Rich, full aroma. Good balance, medium-sweet and floral.

Glenfiddich Age of Discovery (William Grant & Sons) Scotch single malts Rich, full, good maturation, elegant with a Talisker 18 Year Skye James King 5 Year honeyed sweetness. (Diageo) (Quality Spirits Distillers’ single malts 13 to 20 years International) Glenfiddich 40 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Smoky, peaty aroma with a Independent blends up to 11 years old Scotch single malts mellowed smoky palate but Elegant and mature with slight notes Rich, full and elegant with dried fruits, balanced and dry on the finish of mint and a good finish marmalade and leather hints.

AUGUST 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 17 HeadingInternational Spirits Challenge

SCOTCH GOLD WINNERS SCOTCH – SILVER GOLD BEST IN Grant’s Ale Cask Finish (William Grant & Sons) Scotch blends CATEGORY Rich, full, soft yet spicy. Fresh and young, but well blended. Ardbeg Uigedail (The Glenmorangie Company) Grant’s 12 Year (William Grant & Sons) Distillers’ single malts, Islay, up to 12 years old Scotch blends Rich and peaty, warm and inviting with a Clan Gold 15 Year (Quality Spirits medium dry finish. International) Independent blends 12 to 20 years old James King 3 Year (Quality Spirits International) M&S Kenmore Special Reserve 5 Year (Burn Scotch blends Stewart) Good body and balance, mature, spicy. Own label blended malts

James King 8 Year (Quality Spirits M&S 12 Year Old Islay Single Malt (Ian International) Macleod) Scotch blends Own label single malts up to 12 years old Refined, fragrant, with vanilla and honey, and hints of lemon bonbons. Peat Chimney 8 Year (Wemyss Vintage Malts) Independent blended malts Johnnie Walker Double Black (Diageo) Scotch blends Tesco Finest Scotch 12 Year (Whyte & Rich, complex, peaty aroma, with a long, dry Mackay) and peaty finish. Own label blends 12 years old and over

Jura Prophecy (Whyte & Mackay) Scotch single malts SCOTCH SILVER Peaty, spicy aroma and rich, spicy flavour with balanced . WINNERS Single malts Kingdom 21 Year (Hiscot Co) Aberfeldy 12 Year (John Dewar & Sons) Scotch blends Aberfeldy 21 Year (John Dewar & Sons) Aberlour 10 Year (Chivas Brothers) Rich, medium-full palate and a medium-sweet Aberlour 12 Year Double Cask Matured (Chivas finish. Brothers) Aberlour 18 Year (Chivas Brothers) Strathisla 12 Year Highland (Chivas Brothers) Aberlour A’Bunadh (Chivas Brothers) AnCnoc 12 Year Highland (International Beverage) Scotch single malts AnCnoc 16 Year Highland (International Beverage) Light, fresh and floral with a long, medium- Asda Highland Single Malt 12 Year (Ian Macleod) sweet finish. Asda Speyside Single Malt 12 Year (Ian Macleod) Auchentoshan 12 Year (Morrison Bowmore) The Black Grouse (Edrington Group) Auchentoshan 1975 Bourbon (Morrison Bowmore) Auchentoshan Three Wood (Morrison Bowmore) Scotch blends Auchentoshan Valinch (Morrison Bowmore) Peated, good balance and finish, old- Balblair 2000 Vintage Highland (International fashioned, typical scotch style. Beverage) Ben Bracken (Lidl UK) Bradan Orach Highland (International Beverage) The Glenlivet 18 Year (Chivas Brothers) Cardhu 12 Year (Diageo) Scotch single malts Clynelish 14 Year Highland (Diageo) Mature, flowery bourbon, spicy and fresh floral Co-op Highland Malt (Whyte & Mackay) character. Cragganmore 12 Year Speyside (Diageo) Dalmore 12 Year Highland (Whyte & Mackay) Dalmore 15 Year Highland (Whyte & Mackay) Whyte & Mackay 40 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Dalmore 1974 Highland (Whyte & Mackay) Scotch blends Dalmore 1981 Matusalem (Whyte & Mackay) Rich, full aroma. Mature, American oak and Dalmore 1980 Highland (Whyte & Mackay) sherry, with notes of coconut, vanilla and Dalmore Castle Leod (Whyte & Mackay) Dalmore Cigar Reserve (Whyte & Mackay) marmalade.

18 Drinks International drinksint.com AUGUST 2011 International Spirits Challenge

Dalmore King Alexander III (Whyte & Mackay) Ardbeg Corryvreckan (The Glenmorangie Dalwhinnie 15 Year (Diageo) Company) Dalwhinnie Distillers Edition (Diageo) Bunnahabhain 12 Year (Burn Stewart) Fettercairn Flor Highland (Whyte & Mackay) Bunnahabhain 25 Year (Burn Stewart) Fettercairn 24 Year Highland (Whyte & Mackay) Bunnahabhain Toiteach (Burn Stewart) Glencadam 14 Year Highland (Angus Dundee) Caol Ila 12 Year (Diageo) Glenfiddich 12 Year (William Grant & Sons) Caol Ila Distillers Edition (Diageo) Glenfiddich 15 Year (William Grant & Sons) Lagavulin 16 Year (Diageo) Glenfiddich 18 Year (William Grant & Sons) Lagavulin Distillers Edition (Diageo) Glenfiddich 21 Year (William Grant & Sons) Sainsbury’s Islay Malt 12 Year (Ian Macleod) Glenfiddich 30 Year (William Grant & Sons) Smokehead Islay Malt (Ian Macleod) Glenfiddich Rich Oak (William Grant & Sons) Smokehead 18 Year (Ian Macleod) Glenfiddich Snow Phoenix (William Grant & Sons) Tesco Islay Malt 12 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Glengoyne 10 Year Highland (Ian Macleod) Glengoyne 17 Year Highland (Ian Macleod) Blended malts Glenkinchie 12 Year (Diageo) Moffat Springs Classic (Ian Macleod) Glenkinchie Distillers Edition (Diageo) Moffat Springs 12 Year (Ian Macleod) Glenmorangie 18 Year (The Glenmorangie Company) Moffat Springs 15 Year (Ian Macleod) Glenmorangie Astar (The Glenmorangie Company) Spice King 8 Year (Wemyss Vintage Malts) Glenmorangie Finealta (The Glenmorangie Company) Smooth Gentleman 8 Year (Wemyss Vintage Malts) Glenmorangie Nectar d’Or (The Glenmorangie Usquaebach 15 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Company) Glenmorangie Original (The Glenmorangie Blended grain Company) The Snow Grouse (The Edrington Group) Glenmorangie Quarter Century (The Glenmorangie Company) Scotch blends Glenmorangie Signet (The Glenmorangie Company) Bailie Nicol Jarvie (The Glenmorangie Company) Glen Marnoch Single Malt 12 Year (Aldi) Ballantine’s Finest (Chivas Brothers) Highland Park 18 Year (The Edrington Group) Ballantine’s Limited (Chivas Brothers) Highland Park Leif Eriksson (The Edrington Group) Ballantine’s 12 Year (Chivas Brothers) Jura Superstition (Whyte & Mackay) Ballantine’s 17 Year (Chivas Brothers) Jura 21 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Ballantine’s 21 Year (Chivas Brothers) Ledaig 10 Year (Burn Stewart) Ballantine’s 30 Year (Chivas Brothers) Longmorn 16 Year (Chivas Brothers) Black Bottle (Burn Stewart) Oban Distillers Edition (Diageo) 12 Year (Chivas Brothers) Old Pulteney 12 Year (International Beverage) Chivas Regal 18 Year (Chivas Brothers) Old Pulteney 17 Year (International Beverage) Co-op Finest Blend (Whyte & Mackay) Old Pulteney 21 Year (International Beverage) Co-op Premium Blend 5 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Royal Lochnagar (Diageo) Cutty Sark 25 Year (The Edrington Group) Royal Lochnagar Distillers Edition (Diageo) Dewar’s 12 Year Special Reserve (John Dewar & Sainsbury’s Speyside Single Malt 12 Year (Ian Sons) Macleod) Dewar’s Signature (John Dewar & Sons) Scapa 16 Year (Chivas Brothers) Drummer Blended (International Beverage) Singleton of Glendullan (Diageo) Golden Loch (Quality Spirits International) Singleton of Glen Ord (Diageo) Grant’s Family Reserve (William Grant & Sons) Speyburn 10 Year (International Beverage) Grant’s Sherry Cask Finish (William Grant & Sons) Tesco Highland Malt 12 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Grant’s 18 Year Old (William Grant & Sons) Talisker 10 Year (Diageo) Grant’s 25 Year (William Grant & Sons) Talisker 57 North (Diageo) Haddington House 3 Year (Quality Spirits Talisker Distillers Edition (Diageo) International) The Balvenie Carribbean Cask (William Grant & Hankey Bannister Original (International Beverage) Sons) Hankey Bannister 21 Year (International Beverage) The Balvenie Golden Cask (William Grant & Sons) Hedges & Butler Royal Deluxe (Ian Macleod) The Balvenie Peated Cask (William Grant & Sons) Highland Black 8 Year (Aldi) The Balvenie Single Barrel (William Grant & Sons) Hunting Lodge 12 Year (Quartier Français The Balvenie Thirty (William Grant & Sons) Spiritueux) The Balvenie Forty (William Grant & Sons) Isle of Skye 8 Year (Ian Macleod) The Glenlivet 12 Year (Chivas Brothers) Jacobite (Booker) The Glenlivet 12 Year First Fill (Chivas Brothers) James King 12 Year (Quality Spirits International) The Glenlivet 15 Year French Oak Reserve (Chivas James King 15 Year (Quality Spirits International) Brothers) James Martin’s 30 Year (The Glenmorangie The Glenlivet 21 Year Archive (Chivas Brothers) Company) The Glenlivet 25 Year (Chivas Brothers) Johnnie Walker Black Label (Diageo) The Glenlivet Founders Reserve (Chivas Brothers) Johnnie Walker Blue Label (Diageo) The Glenlivet Master Distillers Reserved (Chivas Johnnie Walker Gold Label (Diageo) Brothers) Kingdom 17 Year (Hiscot Co) The Glenlivet Nadurra Cask Strength (Chivas Label 5 18 Year (La Martiniquaise) Brothers) Mount Keen 12 Year (Rusimport) Royal & Ancient (Cockburn & Campbell) Single malts, Islay 21 Year (Chivas Brothers) Ardbeg 10 Year (The Glenmorangie Company) Royal Salute The 100 Cask Selection (Chivas Brothers) Ardbeg Blasda (The Glenmorangie Company) Scottish Collie 3 Year (Quality Spirits International)

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 21 International Spirits Challenge

Scottish Leader Original (Burn Stewart) Scottish Leader 12 Year (Burn Stewart) Whyte & Mackay Special Blend (Whyte & Mackay) Whyte and Mackay 13 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Whyte and Mackay 19 Year (Whyte & Mackay) Whyte & Mackay 30 Year (Whyte & Mackay) William Lawson’s 12 Year Scottish Gold (John Dewar & Sons) WHISKIES of the WORLD BRONZE WINNERS Single malts Auchentoshan Classic (Morrison Bowmore) Auchentoshan 21 Year (Morrison Bowmore) GOLD Balblair 1978 Vintage Highland (International Beverage) Balblair 1989 Vintage Highland (International Beverage) Benromach 10 Year (Gordon & Macphail) Cragganmore Distillers Edition (Diageo) Nikka Yoichi 1990 Deanston 12 Year (Burn Stewart) BEST IN CATEGORY (Asahi Breweries) Deanston Virgin Oak (Burn Stewart) Japanese malts 13 to 20 years old Glencadam 32 Year Single Cask (Angus Dundee) Glencadam 1979 Taiwan Limited (Chung Chia International) Rich, fully flavoured, with honey and Glengoyne 21 Year Highland (Ian Macleod) scented, floral spice hints Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban (The Glenmorangie Company) Glen Orchy (Lidl UK) Highland Park 12 Year (The Edrington Group) Yamazaki 1984 Jura 10 Year Highland (Whyte & Mackay) (Suntory ) Jura 16 Year Highland (Whyte & Mackay) M&S Glengoyne 14 Year Highland (Ian Macleod) Japanese malts 13 to 20 years old Oban 14 Year Highland (Diageo) Rich and complex, good maturation Old Pulteney WK 209 (International Beverage) with spicy oak and tobacco notes Sainsbury’s Highland Malt 12 Year (Ian Macleod) Singleton of Dufftown (Diageo) The Balvenie DoubleWood (William Grant & Sons) Tobermory 10 Year (Burn Stewart) Bushmills 21 Year (Diageo) Single malts, Islay Irish single malts Asda Islay Malt 12 Year (Ian Macleod) Rich, full and mature, Bunnahabhain Cruach Mhona (Burn Stewart) American oak with a Bunnahabhain Darrach Ur (Burn Stewart) medium-dry finish Single grain Octave Cameronbridge 1978 31 Year Cask 191131 (Duncan Taylor) Blended malts Glen Edward’s (Bardinet) 12 Year Glen Orrin (Aldi) (Irish Distillers) Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland (Whyte & Mackay) Premium Irish blends Scotch blends Delicate butterscotch and cedar Asda Blended Scotch (Whyte & Mackay) wood character Black Bull 12 Year Deluxe (Duncan Taylor) Hakushu Bourbon Black Dog Blended (Whyte & Mackay) Barrel (Suntory Liquors) Clan MacGregor (William Grant & Sons) Japanese malts up to 12 years old Cutty Sark Original (The Edrington Group) Cutty Sark 12 Year (The Edrington Group) Medium-full, flowery bourbon aromas, Dewar’s White Label (John Dewar & Sons) aniseed and almonds on the palate Highland Earl (Aldi) Highland Reserve 3 Year (Quality Spirits International) Hunting Lodge (Quartier Français Spiritueux) Kingdom 12 Year (Hiscot Co) Label 5 Classic Black (La Martiniquaise) Mount Keen 3 Year (Rusimport) Queen Margot (Lidl UK) Jameson Rarest Scottish Leader Supreme (Burn Stewart) Vintage Reserve Midleton Barry Crocket Legacy Sir Edward’s (Bardinet) (Irish Distillers) (Irish Distillers) Tesco Special Reserve Blend (Whyte & Mackay) Irish single pot stills William Lawson’s Finest (John Dewar & Sons) Super-premium Irish blends Rich, full, balanced meaty character American oak richness, with with nettles and blackcurrant blackcurrant and vanilla character

22 Drinks International WHISKIES of the WORLD

GOLD WINNERS SILVER WINNERS Irish Other countries Jameson 18 Year (Irish Distillers) Black Bush (Diageo) Bain’s Cape Mountain (Distell) Bushmills (Diageo) Kavalan Whisky (King Car) Super-premium Irish blends Bushmills 1608 (Diageo) Kavalan Concertmaster (King Car) Rich, mature and syrupy with lightly Bushmills 16 Year Single Malt (Diageo) King Car Conductor (King Car) meaty notes. Greenspot (Irish Distillers) Millstone Dutch Single Malt (Zuidam Distillers) Jameson Irish (Irish Distillers) Three Ships Bourbon Cask Finish (Distell) Jameson Gold Reserve (Irish Distillers) Jameson 12 Year Special Reserve (Irish Distillers) Three Ships Premium Select 5 Year (Distell) Jameson Select Reserve (Irish Distillers) Three Ships Single Malt 10 Year (Distell) Super-premium Irish blends 2010 (Irish Distillers) Medium-full, vanilla pods and crème Powers Gold Label (Irish Distillers) brûlée. Powers John Lane (Irish Distillers) 15 Year (Irish Distillers) Tullamore Dew 10 Year (William Grant & Sons) Redbreast 12 Year (Irish Distillers) Tullamore Dew 10 Year Single Malt (William Grant & Irish single pot stills Sons) BRONZE WINNERS Rich and creamy, with floral, spicy Tullamore Dew Black 43 (William Grant & Sons) Irish depth. Bushmills 10 Year Single Malt (Diageo) Japanese Danny Boy Premium Blend (Danny Boy) Hibiki Blended 12 Year (Suntory) Danny Boy 15 Year Single Malt (Danny Boy) SILVER BEST IN Hibiki Blended 21 Year (Suntory) Tullamore Dew 12 Year Special Reserve (William Nikka From the Barrel (Asahi Breweries) Grant & Sons) CATEGORY Nikka Miyagikyo 12 Year (Asahi Breweries) Asda Blended Bourbon (Asda) Nikka Taketsuru 21 Year (Asahi Breweries) Japanese Nikka Tsuru 17 Year (Asahi Breweries) Nikka Miyagikyo 1990 (Asahi Breweries) Bourbon/Tennessee whiskey Nikka Yoichi 15 Year (Asahi Breweries) Nikka Yoichi 20 Year (Asahi Breweries) The Hakushu Single Malt 10 Year (Suntory) The Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask (Suntory) Gibsons Finest Rare 18 Year Canadian The Hakushu Single Malt 12 Year (Suntory) (William Grant & Sons) The Hakushu Single Malt 18 Year (Suntory) American/Canadian Canadian/American blends The Hakushu Single Malt 25 Year (Suntory) Gibsons Finest Sterling Canadian (William Grant & The Hakushu Single Malt Heavily Peated (Suntory) Sons) The Yamazaki Single Malt Bourbon Barrel (Suntory) Hudson Baby Bourbon (William Grant & Sons) Hibiki 17 Year (Suntory) The Yamazaki Single Malt Mizunara (Suntory) Hudson Single Malt (William Grant & Sons) Premium Japanese blends 12 to 20 years old The Yamazaki Single Malt Puncheon (Suntory) The Yamazaki Single Malt 10 Year (Suntory) Other countries The Yamazaki Single Malt 12 Year (Suntory) After Dark (Radico Khaitan) Kavalan Soloist Ex-Bourbon Cask (King Car) The Yamazaki Single Malt 18 Year (Suntory) Hammer Head Czech Single Malt (Stock Spirits) Whiskies from other countries Kavalan Solist Fino Single Cask Strength (King Car) American/Canadian Kavalan Solist Vinho Single Cask Strength (King Tullamore Dew (William Grant & Sons) Clarkes Kentucky Bourbon (Aldi) Car) Standard Irish blends Gibsons Finest 12 Year Canadian (William Grant & Kavalan Solist Sherry Cask (King Car) Sons) Knights Finest Matured (Distell) Hudson Manhattan Rye (William Grant & Sons) Rogue Dead Guy Whiskey (Rogue Spirits) Woodford Reserve (Brown-Forman) Hudson Four Grain Bourbon (William Grant & Sons) Rogue Oregon Single Malt (Rogue Spirits) Small batch bourbon Western Gold Bourbon (Lidl UK) Three Ships Select 3 Year (Distell)

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 23 Thanks mainly to challenges in eastern Europe, vodka is suddenly and shockingly in decline. But Hamish Smith finds optimism behind the figures Crash of the titan?

t’s official – vodka is in decline. sold 160m cases. In fact, the declines of spirits categories. The largely domestic The seemingly evergreen the past two years only show the vodka Ukrainian player, Khlibniy Dar from category’s vertical flight in volume picture has pixelated and where there the Dar Bayadera Group, occupies the sales has halted – it appears a was once global growth, there are now second spot in Drinks International’s ceiling has been hit and it’s vodka, regional variations. Millionaires 2011 vodka league, with Ifor once, that has the sore head. Russia, the world’s deepest vodka a massive 20.6% increase in volume to According to Euromonitor drain, saw volume decline by a 12.3m cases. The brand has taken share International (the source of all considerable 5% to just over 160m cases from Ukrainian leader Khortytsa, but unattributed figures quoted here), global last year. Widen the pool further to the also experienced a lift from cross-border vodka volume was down 0.5% in 2010 whole of eastern Europe, vodka’s spiritual sales to neighbouring Russia and Belarus. to 424 million 9-litre cases, compounding homeland, and a similar trend has been Perhaps the growth of more thinly but a similar decline in the supposedly witnessed, with an overall decline of 3%. widely spread international brands is anomalous recession-hit 2009 (see fig1). But if you strip away eastern Europe, the more notable. Pernod Ricard’s Absolut, The year before, everything was looking vodka picture for the rest of the world posted a huge 8.7% increase to reach pretty, with global volumes having shows a category apparently in good 10.9m cases last year. Not far behind reached 428m cases, up from around health and, according to Euromonitor is Nemiroff, the Ukrainian brand with 418m in 2005. So what has changed in International, global vodka consumption volume sales of 9.2m cases in 2010. global spirit consumption? Could it be – minus eastern Europe – will grow 3% Nemiroff is now the third largest that other categories are prospering at between 2010-2015. international brand, having usurped vodka’s expense? As far as brands go, Diageo’s compatriot Khortytsa, which took a Well, vodka is still very much top of juggernaut Smirnoff still hogs the road. A 2.7% dive during the same period. the volume pops, being 50% larger than small increase of 1.3% in 2010 saw the With this cluster of brands jostling (e)y, which sold 283m cases in brand reach 24.4m cases and Smirnoff is Above: Images of Absolut’s for vodka’s international silver and 2010, and 165% bigger than rum, which still the top international brand of all the southern-Sweden homeland bronze medals, at around 10m cases,

24 Drinks International Premium Vodka

it’s doubtful whether the category’s frontrunner, Smirnoff, need bother to look behind. “Smirnoff continues to perform well as the global leader and number one brand in the US,” says Ed co-owner of Nemiroff Company. “From Bacardi, a near 20% spike in sales growth Pilkington, global category director of the very beginning of its operations, was seen last year – the second largest vodka, rum and gin at Diageo. “We are Nemiroff Company was oriented toward growth in the category. While this was particularly pleased with performance long-term results. The year of 2010 was from a small base of around 1.9m cases, in developing economies. In Latin the most productive and efficient over the closing the 20m-case gap with Smirnoff is America and India, Smirnoff’s strategy history of the company and the brand very much in the brand’s 10-year target. of building the brand by positioning it has seriously increased its power in the “We strongly believe Eristoff can move to the emerging middle-class consumer external markets.” from a challenger to leader position continued to be successful, delivering Nemiroff, far from being just an within that timeframe,” says Mark strong net sales growth.” eastern European player, now exports Holdsworth, UK marketing controller for According to Pilkington, Smirnoff’s to 72 countries. Naturally, geographic the France-based vodka. “In the UK it has marketing budget swelled by 16% last realities mean Nemiroff’s largest markets broken all records and is now the number year to fund campaigns such as its Global are the Ukraine, Russia and Poland two in the on-trade, overtaking Russian Nightlife Project. With Diageo’s deep but, according to the brand, the most Standard in the space of only 18 months. pockets and the seeming advent of new strategically important regions are China, It is recognised by Nielsen as the fastest Smirnoff loyalists in emerging markets, western Europe and the US. The brand ever brand launch in the UK on-trade.” it’s a tough task to compete. But not an has also started to tap into Australia, Eristoff not only claims to be stealing impossible one. New Zealand, Syria, Finland, Japan and market share from Smirnoff in the UK – “We are serious about being the leader Switzerland. where it has achieved a valuable listing in the market,” says Alexander Glus, For the emerging Eristoff, owned by with national chain JD  p27 august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 25 Premium Vodka

Wetherspoon – the brand says it is market leader in France, Austria and Portugal and has growth territories in the form of India and Russia. Eristoff Gold has recently been launched. At 20% abv it is not strictly a vodka – more a caramel and vanilla-flavoured drink – but the spinoff, which joins the wild berry-flavoured Eristoff Black – is hoped to “differentiate the range”.

Stateside At around 60m cases, the US is the second largest vodka market by volume and posted a 5% gain last year (see fig 2). The US is the biggest market for Absolut, accounting for 40% of its volume. “We are now able to post growth in the US while maintaining double-digit growth outside of the US,” says Jonas Tåhlin, vice president of brand development at The Absolut Company. “We are seeing “Super-premium vodka is fast Nemiroff has designs on (P Diddy) collaboration. Ciroc’s reported being the market leader global improvement in brand health, becoming a truly global market,” says and currently exports to 72 triple-digit year-on-year growth in the including in the US.” Jonathan Morley, global vodka category countries US, according to Pilkington, has been Central to Absolut’s upturn has been director of Bacardi Global Brands. “stunning”. “We are also starting to see product innovation. The launch of “There is still significant opportunity Ciroc grow in the rest of the world and the brand’s limited-edition City Series for growth in the established North the brand is now much more visible in proved successful, namely the Spike Lee American market, which shows no sign markets such as Brazil and the UK.” collaboration, Absolut Brooklyn, last of slowing down. There are also many Ketel One, which, along with Smirnoff year and the more recent Absolut SF – emerging markets where super-premium and Ciroc, Diageo considers one of “an homage to the free thinkers of San has only just gained its foothold and it’s its “priority vodka brands”, is now Fransico”, says Tåhlin. Unusual flavours here that there’s enormous potential for operating in 50 markets, posted growth such as Wild Tea and Orient Apple have trading up from the more established of 11.1% and is now a 2m case brand. also played their part. premium sector.” This summer the brand took its first According to Morley – leaving aside the Eastern Europe tentative steps into super-premium US – Canada, France, the UK, Mexico, Russia’s implementation of a minimum territory with Absolut Elyx. For now China and travel retail are the brand’s price for vodka was the major influence the product is being tested in Mexico, key markets. “The UK is an example on the market’s 5% drop in consumption Greece, Canada and the brand’s “1m-case of a market where super-premium last year. By 2013 the price for a half-litre travel retail market”, where it will debut vodka is particularly coming of age,” bottle in Russia will rise again by more in Frankfurt, Sydney, São Paulo and Rio he says, “and Grey Goose is flourishing than 120%, thanks to staggered tax de Janerio airports. Elyx, though in its as a result. And, with affluent travellers increases. formative stages, is likely to be launched bringing strong growth to the travel All in all, observers expect consumption to global markets, the US in particular, retail sector, Grey Goose has been a star to continue to fall. Add to that the where it will meet Grey Goose head on in performer as they pick up a bottle for re-emergence of international brands in the expanding super-premium segment. entertaining at home or for gifting.” worldwide markets – seven of the top 12 In the US, super-premium sales grew Diageo’s Pilkington calls the US brands operating globally grew in 2010 tenfold between 2000 and 2007. Despite “the most developed vodka market in – and you have a trying marketplace for the country’s faltering economy, which the world” and notes the “increased regional/domestic vodka groups. was most keenly felt in on-trade sales, innovation – notably in the area of Central European Distribution Corp super-premium continues with strong flavours – in the past 12 months”. He (CEDC) is one. Still the world’s second momentum. At present, the sector says Diageo is “delighted by the success largest vodka producer – behind first- stands at 12% of market share in the of Ciroc Coconut and Red Berry”, two Polish giant Czysta de Luxe placed Diageo (see fig 3) – CEDC saw US, premium at 22%, standard at off-shoots from the original, Sean Combs grew by 18.7% last year six of its eight 1m-case brands in decline 2% and economy at 64%. One of the last year. Absolwent, to name but one, segment catalysts was Grey Goose, which fell from 4.18m cases to 2.8m in two continues to hold the title of biggest years. But while Russia and, to a lesser selling super-premium. The Bacardi- degree, Poland (see fig 2), may have owned brand rose by 5.5% in 2010 and witnessed declines in consumption, some is now at 3.65m cases a year, the fifth regional brands are still finding room for largest international vodka brand and advancement. 11th including domestic vodkas. Operating in the Polish  p28 august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 27 Premium Vodka market and much of eastern Europe is but with an international angle – it is the world,” says Tåhlin. “We find it very Stock Spirits (see fig 3), the group that now in 19 markets around the world,” encouraging that Absolut is doing so develops brands from scratch, such as says Heath. well in the BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India Polish giant Czysta de Luxe – a 6.4m-case 1906 is another from Stock’s nine- and China) markets, which gives us real vodka that grew again last year, this time vodka portfolio and one that is gathering optimism around high sustainable growth by 18.7%. “Poland is our biggest market momentum internationally, having gained rates going forward.” and if you’re big in Poland, then you’re access to 25 markets. The brand rose So, vodka as a global category has big anywhere”, says CEO of Stock Spirits 22.3% last year from a base of 1.39m to entered its first testing period for years. Chris Heath. 1.7m cases, and is positioned to compete To a degree, the category’s sprawling Unlike many drinks groups which try with the biggest mainstream brands and growing popularity in the west to cover each vodka market segment with in whichever market it enters. While and among BRIC powerhouses should a brand, Stock has a different strategy. Heath concedes that the brand name counter its losses. “We work out the profit pool and how Czysta de Luxe would need a rethink for But should the decline witnessed in competitive it is, then decide whether we international markets, 1906 on the other vodka’s spiritual homelands escalate, can get to number one or two position,” hand “can be understood in all markets”. treacherous waters may lie in wait. says Heath. Stock Prestige is an example Absolut has also gained ground on Perhaps then, after years of unchallenged of this strategy. Having grown by 400% the eastern front. “Absolut is enjoying domination, it could finally be a case of in 2010 to 1m cases, it represents 15% tremendous momentum in the east [of vodka on the rocks. DI of the premium segment in the Polish Europe]”, says Tåhlin, “with Russia and market. Poland growing above 30% [last year].” It also registered the fastest growth of Absolut’s volume growth is also any brand in the Millionaires list, taking attributed to the worldwide reach of the title from last year’s speedster, Czysta Pernod Ricard, the brand’s owner of de Luxe. “One of the segments we have three years. “We are clearly seeing the grown is domestic premium. Prestige was positive impact of being part of one of created as an upgrade to Czysta de Luxe, the strongest distribution networks in

Fig 2

Fig 1

(Fig 1) Vodka witnessed a sobering 0.5% total staggered tax increases will be used to volume decline in 2010, which is much lower than raise that figure to RUB200 by 2013. the 2005-2010 compound annual growth rate This minimum retail price for vodka of 2%. Eastern Europe which saw a total volume was to blame for the decline and, as result, decline of 3%. all vodka brands with a retail price of However, global vodka growth is expected to pick RUB100-120 are now classed as economy up again over the next five years with total volumes (they were standard in 2009), and some expected to grow again – albeit it much lower than of the economy brands moved to the Fig 3 the historic growth. If we strip eastern Europe out illegal market. of the global picture, vodka appears to be in good Poland is another important vodka (Fig 3) The leading five vodka producers accounted health and will show a 3% total volume growth over market which saw negative growth in 2010. This for only 22% of global sales in 2010, compared with 2010-2015. decline was mainly caused by the recession, as 73% for the top five producers in blended scotch. well as by Polish consumers switching from white This is mainly because most of the world’s largest (Fig 2) In Russia in January 2010, a minimum retail spirits to brown spirits, with the latter gaining a vodka markets in eastern Europe have little history price of RUB89 per half-litre of vodka was set, while bigger share of volume and value sales. of branded products and are highly fragmented.

28 Drinks International drinksint.com august 2011 in association with

UK

t Diageo’s recent World Class competition in York and, while that comparison is certainly still valid, it’s Delhi, some 30 of the world’s best much more useful to look at the UK as a whole – not least battled to earn the place of number one because in the aforementioned competition the UK’s entry Amixologist on the planet. was from Edinburgh. In the mix, so to speak, was Jamie MacDonald of the There’s quality right across the UK, as this list of top bars Raconteur, competing for the UK and one of the firm clearly indicates. While there’s a strong representation from favourites. Judging him was a prestigious panel with two London venues, it’s worth noting that decent bartending of those taking scores having made their names in UK has spread all over, even to places not mentioned – Bristol bartending – Salvatore Calabrese and Peter Dorelli. is fast evolving and there are pockets of brilliance in places Compering the event was Spike Marchant, a former British such as Nottingham, Sheffield, Belfast and Cardiff. bar professional and consultant, and with him former World The UK has a tradition of great drinks and this continues Class winner Erik Lorinz of the American Bar at London’s Savoy. apace, with openings earning professional plaudits on a And mong those giving talks were Angus Winchester and monthly basis. Tom Aske and Tristan Stephenson of Purl and the Whistling As ever, the list here is a representation from global voters Shop in London. – we didn’t select the list, we simply collected views then What I’m saying is there was a massive British contingent printed. If you don’t agree, you have the power to change at the event. Here, at one of the world’s most important the list simply by voting next time around, and with the Top bartender competitions, was a significant representation 50 Bars of the World final fast approaching we encourage from the UK and the reason is this region competes as one feedback. If you’d like a say then drop us a line. of the best bar markets in the world. It’s a little lazy to simply compare London with New Tom Sandham, World’s Best Bars editor

30 Drinks International milk & honey 61 Poland Street, London W1F 7NU mlkhny.com

he current champion of the world’s bars, Milk is no stranger to the number one spot. The creative minds that make the drinks here are subjected to some of the best bar training on the planet and, Tas a result, many have successfully galloped from this stable into a continued career in the drinks industry. Classic cocktails mix seamlessly with innovation on the menu and sophistication holds hands with fun to ensure the night caters for all tastes. Above all though, the service is what the customers keep coming back for, safe in the knowledge they’ll feel about as special as anyone can do in a bar.

World bars: quest for the best In this latest of Drinks International’s Not all raspberries are created equal in-depth surveys, owners and managers of 50 elite bars throughout the UK were contacted directly by Leslie Henry Research to learn their choice of top bars and spirits. This month’s report covers the best bars within this area, as selected by this group of industry insiders.

Inferior tasting fruit means Meeker and Polana inferior tasting cocktails. varieties from Poland and So we travel the world in Chile. If you’re going to search of the very best. create the finest cocktails, For us that means only the the least we can do is give most vibrant, handpicked, you the very best fruit sun-ripened nature provides. Shutterstock/Alex Saberi Shutterstock/Alex

You l Spirit l funkin l The Perfect Cocktail

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 31 in association with focus on uk

trailer happiness artesian 177 Portobello Road, London W11 2DY The Langham, 1c Portland Place trailerhappiness.com Regent Street, London W1B 1JA rioscenarium.com.br railer’s recent refurbishment has given the tiki den a renewed verve and, thanks to a reputation that has helped it stand the test of time, it now encourages a new batch of rum fans. The bar’s his Langham Tunderstated retro chic and kitsch has always attracted fans of bar hotel bar has design and the commitment to decent drinks means they don’t simply come undoubtedly in for the novelty value. Tbenefited from the positive PR that bar manager Alex Kratena delivers. His globetrotting in search of new techniques and flavours ensures the cocktails here are as innovative as they are tasty. Most importantly, Alex and his staff do everything with a broad smile and heaps of charm. A deserving addition to the list of the world’s best.

4 69 Colebrooke Row about ignoring it, the staff here hit them again. and moved on from the stick, the owners always 69 Colebrooke Row, London N1 8AA (above) With a massive bit of bamboo. Award-winning and find a reputable replacement. The equation works: 69colebrookerow.com excelling at what bars really should deliver more – a excellent drinks and fun times make for a great bar. A bar that is named after its address – reason decent night out – this place teaches many other enough for it to place in the top 5. Tony Conigliaro is pretenders a lesson in how to keep customers happy. 9 Mojo a master of the molecular and this church of quality 19 Back Bridge Street, Manchester M3 2PB cocktails comes complete with an upstairs lab. It’s 6 Montgomery Place mojobar.co.uk not all boffins in white coats investigating space/ 31 Kensington Park Road, London W11 2EU At a time when people seem to focus on the time continuums though – in fact, hardly any of the montgomeryplace.co.uk sophistication and serious drinks, Mojo continues science is visible. Rather this is a bistro-style space A mainstay of the Notting Hill circuit, Montgomery to strip back to the bare essentials of a great night with excellent service and tasty cocktails. Small it has made an unwavering commitment to quality out. A selection of tunes to accompany some might be, but it packs a proper punch. drinks and service. As a result it remains one of the ridiculous dancing, quality drinks with a sense of neighbourhood’s favourite spots for relaxed imbibing. self deprecation thrown in and a devotion to service 5 Keko Moku even the best cocktail bars would be proud of. 100 High Street, Manchester M4 1HP 7 Bramble kekomoku.co.uk 16a Queen Street Edinburgh EH2 1JE 10 Bar Boulud There’s off the hook mucking about here. Tiki hit bramblebar.co.uk 66 Knightsbridge, Westminster, London SW1X 7LA Manchester squarely between the eyes with this bar Consistency is the key to Bramble’s success and while barboulud.com (below) and if the northern city had any illusions some of the most talented bartenders have served A hotel that sets its culinary stall out with the employment of Heston Blumenthall upstairs and Daniel Boulud in this bar clearly has grand ambitions, so it’s no great surpise it’s turning heads. Critic AA Gill lauded the ‘piggie burger’ but, while he found “the pork and the chilli mayo make it exceptional”, added “you couldn’t eat this opposite anyone who hadn’t already agreed to sleep with you.” But it’s not a bad idea to match it with the Martinis here.

32 Drinks International drinksint.com august 2011 focus on UK in association with

The Loft (left) 67 Clapham High Street, Greater London (theloftclapham. com) and Mahiki (above), 1 Dover Street, Mayfair London W1S 4LD (mahiki.com) both feature on the UK Best of the Rest list.

you). So we’re selling fewer cocktails and there is more focus on (craft) beer, The experts’ view wine and great food. In terms of cocktails I see more of the classics becoming popular elsewhere. Nidal Ramini, area sales manager for Brown Negroni for example. I keep seeing Hanky Panky on everyone’s menu – I’m not Forman and consultant for Montgomery Place sure why though. think we’ve seen the standard of service If you asked me why our venues perform well, I’d say they’re not especially at improve in the UK, which is by far the most the moment, but I think we’ve always kept two things at the heart of what we important thing for any venue. Bartenders, do – the customer and the drinks quality, training and knowledge. I go to a lot Imanagers and, crucially, owners have realised of places where there is a real passion for making ‘clever’ drinks (which is great it doesn’t matter how cool your place looks, how and innovative and essential), but sometimes I sense a sneering acceptance of technically proficient your bar team might be or serving anything that doesn’t require extreme bartending skills. I won’t allow how many bitters bottles you’ve got, if you don’t “cocktail wank”, as I call it, in my bars. Apart from a few drinks geeks on Twitter, offer the guest (and I use that word on purpose) a that’s not what customers want or deserve. decent experience they won’t come back. In terms of where the UK bar scene sits, it’s joint top – same as it ever was. Another thing I like is the rise of the . Stu But I’m not convinced the future is bright – it’s not bright for anything right Butler, who runs Aces & 8s and Slim Jims (both in now. I’m getting into hot dogs… North London) has put together two great concepts just offering people a great time. Rising Star Leisure has opened Dime on Battersea Rise, which is almost Mike Aikman, owner of Bramble there, and Venn St Records feels like a real labour of love. Outside of London I or customers coming to Bramble we see 70%-80% of sales with love what the guys at Haus and Hyde & Co in Bristol are doing, Sam Kershaw, cocktails, and a fairly large percentage of them gin-based. Mark Scott and Justyn Bell are killer bartenders really mixing it up over there With cocktails the classics are still going well, but with the summer and Edinburgh is definitely the second city of cocktail in the UK – amazing bars Fhere we are seeing a lot of Sours, Fizzes, Highballs, Bucks & the like... and bartenders in a great city. With spirits sales it’s always gin that performs for But there are still too many bartenders who think bartending is about making us. There’s still lots of interest in the category with flawless, strong, bitter drinks that only seven other bartenders would like. Enjoy people asking for recommendations and “any new all aspects of the job and try to excel in all, not just the geeky side of it. gins on the market”. We have also finally started to If you took the best 10 bars in the UK, best 10 in New York and best 10 in see some of the interest in tequila that has been Paris I’d be quietly confident we’d hold our own. However, the depth of NYC going on down south for the past couple of years. An bars is better and I’d struggle to name 20-plus great bars in the UK. upsurge in rum sales again too. At the moment we’re seeing a trend in fun drinks Jonathan Downey, owner of the Rushmore Group’s Milk & Honey such as Piña Coladas, White Russians and Malibu wo things impress me about the bar scene right now: (i) anyone who Daiquiris. Many bartenders have learned to not take can stay in business is worthy of respect; good luck and keep going, themselves too seriously. When they are out to enjoy and (ii) I’m really pleased to finally see so many young bartenders themselves they can drink something other than a Topening their own places. At last. Sazerac//Martini/Negroni and they In terms of what disappoints me – wow, where to begin? The fact that so many are not letting the side down. bar owners seem to have forgotten the key formula for a successful bar: Great The important thing for us, as bartenders, is to gauge this and suggest Drinks + Great Time = Great Bar. They all take the drinks and themselves too suitable drinks to suit the customer’s mood & occasion. So if they are out seriously. Also, too many new bars are so similar – either faux secret partying, they may well want a couple of “Disco Drinks” instead of a couple of or bling imitations of Milk & Honey. There’s not much innovation in interiors. Martinis. Each to their own. The main trend n our venues is less drinking. Less money means people aren’t When it comes to bar trends I think we will see more innovation and move out as much drinking to get drunk, dance and have fun (that’s the recession for away from the harking back to a bygone era.

34 Drinks International drinksint.com august 2011 Hofferer echoed Berg’s sentiment and said ingredients have affected the type of cocktails on offer. Hofferer adds: “The variety of , liquors and has massively Cocktail increased over the past decade. This makes it easier for bartenders to offer their customers new, innovative drinks. In the past the techniques of mixing and stirring were more classical. Many common drinks from a while back – Grasshopper, Alexander, Rob Roy or Golden Cadillac – have virtually disappeared. However, other classic drinks such as Piña Colada and Lucy Britner , are still alive and kicking – many in a modified form, often using unearths the fruit variations such as Strawberry, Mango or Pineapple Caipirinha.” latest trends Volare’s Gianluigi Bosco says that, while experimentation is a good both behind thing, bartenders need to learn the classics, adding: “I believe that before the bar and for experimenting with crazy ideas a good bartender should master all the classics consumers at and be able to recreate them with a personal . home “Molecular mixology has become quite popular too, but it’s rare to see it done properly in a bar.” Funkin CEO Andrew King says the he world has gone cocktail unavailable in the UK for some 60 years. Dorchester of London popularity of cocktails in the bar has mad. Last month saw two The cocktail was first created in the 20ml Barcardi rum spilled into the home: “As cocktails of the largest events in the 1930s by famous bartender Harry 20ml Forbidden Fruit have increased in popularity in the bar cocktail calendar – Diageo’s Craddock. To commemorate the hotel’s 40ml dry gin industry, consumers are taking their new World Class final in Delhi anniversary celebrations 80 years later, Stir in ice and strain into drinking habits into the home, leading andT Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans. bar manager Giuliano Morandin sought cocktail glass. Squeeze lemon to an increased demand for our cocktail The brand behemoths must’ve lavished out the original cocktail from a recipe peel on top. mixer range. millions of dollars on these events. Added book first published in 1951, stored “Consumers simply add ice and a spirit to that is the popularity of TV series such in The Bar at The Dorchester’s private to the mixers and in 10 seconds they have as Mad Men. Even though I’ve never seen archives. a great-tasting cocktail, consistent every an episode, I know that someone called The Dorchester’s interpretation of time, removing the hassle and mess of Don Draper drinks more cocktails than Forbidden Fruit contains cognac, pomelo buying ingredients and creating cocktails he hits on women. Marginally. fruit, citrus and honey and will be from scratch.” Not only are cocktails big behind bars, available exclusively at The Dorchester Whether you mix it up at home or seek Gianluigi Bosco: a good the likes of Pernod Ricard are pushing for a year. bartender should master professional help, cocktails are definitely cocktail culture in the home and cocktail The bespoke and unusual continue to the classics on the menu. supremo Dre Masso coaches home be big hitters when it comes to cocktail consumers through Pernod’s ginandtales. culture and The Bitter Truth’s Stephan com website. Berg says there is a new standard in It seems we’ve been writing the term today’s bartending. ‘cocktail renaissance’ for so long that it’s He adds: “Ten years ago fresh fruits no longer a renaissance, it just is. But were hardly seen in cocktail making, history continues to play an enormous today it is the standard. The spirits rack role in cocktail culture and just when you has now got far more to offer than we all think there are no books left to be found, dreamed of 10 years ago. someone has a dig around in the attic and “We have old brands coming back, old comes up with another. Most recently, ingredients recreated or unearthed. We London’s Dorchester reintroduced its have a new level in bartending and the Dorchester of London cocktail to the last 10 years saw probably the biggest menu. The rum-based drink is made with step forward in many decades.” a Forbidden Fruit liqueur – previously Pago mixing ambassador Mario

36 Drinks International Cocktail Special

Of ice and Shutterstock/Alex Staroseltsev

At July’s Imbibe Live show in London, UK consultancy Soulshakers provided pearls of wisdom on ‘troubleshooting for bartenders’. David Longfield listened in

n a lively, fast-paced and educational session, produce but has a high surface area to weight ratio, so a walk-in chiller, so you can restock your fridges with Soulshakers director Michael Butt gave some is not good because it shatters in a shaker and melts cold ones. sound pointers on “bar black spots”: how quickly in a drink. Spheres are the most efficient shape, 7 Speed of service. “It’s not an interesting exercise, but you can make your bar business work better but hard to find, so Butt recommends 28mm cubes. we make all our staff learn times-tables for spirit prices, commercially. “In the past 15 years I have got to 2 The menu. How many drinks should be on a menu? such as £3.90 up to 12-times.” seeI businesses working on all levels,” he said, launching “It should be the smallest number possible that still 8 Equipment. “Provide the right tools. I’ve seen into his first item of advice. gives the customer adequate choice,” said Butt. Include so many staff injuries from people trying to use a 1 Ice. “How much ice is there in a highball drink three or four long, vodka-based drinks that can be barspoon as a .” in your bar?” asked Butt, to a nervous silence from delivered with speed and “controlled efficiency”. And: 9 Tips. “To make a bar work well, the staff have to the attendant bar trade audience. This, stressed Butt, “Check all bars in your area to make sure your prices work as a team, so they should share as a team. Going is the “most important, most forgotten and least are right. If in doubt, add 50p to your – they’ll to work in a place where you enjoy it and get on with understood” factor in the day-to-day running of any buy it anyway.” your colleagues is much better than not.” bar operation. 3 Optimising sales. “It’s not just ‘Do you want chips 10 House products. “Don’t take them for granted. “Everybody should know exactly how much ice is with that?’ Look to sell items that don’t normally sell, Not everyone is prepared to spend as much of their in their drinks,” he said. “If you spend money on extra or sell more slowly.” Assess customers as they come in, paycheck on intoxicants as you are.” ice, you are impacting unnecessarily on your bottom Butt advised – their clothing, the shoes or watch they 11 Bartender ‘BS’ and affectation. All successful line.” If you do the sums, he said, after just months of are wearing, the relationship. “So you know what to bartenders have to have some degree of self-confidence ordering in extra ice, you could have covered the cost offer them to make them look good.” And give staff in what they do, said Butt: “But you must have the of an ice machine. ideas on what is good to sell. “You don’t have to give knowledge to back up this certainty. Do not make “We make at least 20 drinks in each glass to define them all the margins, just set them targets.” things up. If you don’t know, admit it and find out – the volume of ice in each drink. For a new opening 4 Staff turnover. The average in the UK is six months, learn it. we recommend a production capacity of 120% of said Butt. Provide incentives for staff and training, so “Do not impose your prejudice on others: your total predicted demand. If your chosen ice machine’s they know they can increase their pay as they progress. opinion is sometimes helpful, but the customer’s voyage output is measured in kg, the easiest way to calculate 5 Stock control – and the associated product mix. “It of discovery is often more enjoyable than getting the the requirement from a total volume in litres (cm3) is to might be time-consuming, but it gives you knowledge right answer. multiply the volume by 0.92.” so you know what you are going to sell.” Look for “Do not repeat things you haven’t checked for Mistakes here, said Butt, “lead to continual spend on payday trends: offer beer-bucket deals in the days yourself. Most simple bar questions can be answered delivered ice, and shortages during service”. before people are paid, or champagne deals on payday with a pipette, a thermometer and the internet. Cleanliness. Estimates are that 10% to 20% of all nights. Get the figures for sales, then go back to your “Do not know more mashbills than jokes. Read the food poisoning cases are carried by ice-borne bacteria, suppliers: “They will give discounts, as long as you’re newspaper and be prepared to comment: your opinion Butt said. “Clean your ice machine at a maximum doing the volumes.” on affairs outside the bar world is often of more of two-week intervals, and regularly clean all the 6 Bar space. If you’re tight for space behind the bar, interest than botanical provenance.” equipment that touches the ice.” make sure you have glassware that stacks well and 12 And lastly, one that was clearly close to Butt’s Shape. Toroid (hollow, tubular) ice is cheaper to back-up chilling facilities, such as ice-water baths or heart: “Do NOT wear a hat indoors!” august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 37 Cocktail Special Back

Lucy Britner spends a day behind the stick learning the tricks of the trade

ou hear lots of different versions of So the set-up – straws, sip straws, napkins, how cocktails got their names, who muddler, , strainer, Boston shaker. Down invented them and why. The key thing below – the ice, the sink, fruits, jiggers, Mexican to remember is that we’re talking about elbow, the speed rail and, of course, the bin. We were rules of balance apply but because you are using egg alcohol and it’s likely those who started told that anyone who didn’t leave their work station white (50ml bourbon, 25ml lemon, 12.5-25ml sugar Ythe story – and those charged with carrying the torch clean and tidy for the next person would have to syrup, 4 drops of Angostura bitters and 1 egg white), – were drunk. down a ‘dirty shot’. One look at some of the obscure to create the velvetly consistency it’s important to So when I embarked on a day-long Introduction bottles on the back bar made me wash everything ‘dry shake’ the ingredients before shaking with ice. to Cocktails course with Shaker UK in London, twice, even if I didn’t use it. The problem here is that ice in a shaker helps I learned a few new tales with my cocktails. First up, a (and the stories begin). It create suction and stop bits of the cocktail escaping Although I still prefer the drinkers’ side of the bar, was invented by John Collins at the Limmer’s hotel from the shaker. So, to get around this – and to learning how to create classics and understanding in London in the 1800s. It’s called a Tom, rather create an extra whipping for the egg white – place how to balance a drink are paramount to than a John, because Old Tom gin was in the mix. one ice cube in the shaker. Then shake again with ice understanding cocktails. This cocktail focuses on the basic principals of to chill the drink. There were nine of us behind the stick, including balance and follows the lines of “something strong, You should end up with a nice layer of foam on a bartender who was off back to Scotland to share something weak, something sour, something sweet”. top of your sour. If you’re opposed to egg, you could the skills with colleagues, and two newly-turned In fact, as course leader Dave Broido says: “It’s try using a dash of pineapple juice. 18-year-olds – one who wanted to make herself more basically an alcoholic lemonade. And it’s a great one employable as a student looking for bar work and to learn how to balance a drink.” Movie favourite the other who had received the course as a birthday The recipe calls for 50ml of gin, 25ml of lemon Next up, Sex and the City favourite the present. Then there were two east London locals juice, 12.5-25ml of sugar syrup and a soda top. We Cosmopolitan. who, having received degrees in business of some were encouraged to ‘straw-dip’ our cocktails to taste Ben McDonald took the reins for this one and used sort, had set up a company importing spirits. and achieve the right amount of sugar. his preferred recipe of 25ml of lime, Cointreau and One of the most intriguing chaps was Ted – he’s cranberry juice with 50ml of vodka. But the cocktail moving to China to open an English pub with his Variations on a theme is more famous for its garnish than its ingredients Chinese wife. As well as learning about red wine, If you’re not a fan of gin, how about a Jock Collins and the key to getting the orange zest to flame-up is Ted says it’s important to learn about cocktails to with scotch whisky; a Michael Collins with Irish to warm it for a couple of seconds before squeezing please Chinese drinkers. whiskey; a Pedro Collins with rum or a José Collins the zest into the flame. Although it’s a pretty pink with tequila? drink, the Cosmo packs 75ml of booze so shouldn’t Top tipple How long to shake? Well, when your hand starts be quaffed hastily. Almost everyone on the course said their favourite to go cold and the Boston tin starts to frost, it’s By the end of the course, everyone’s shaking cocktail was a Mojito – with an eager 18-year-old done. skills were improving and so was the level of adding “anything, really”. I thought this a bit of Next up, we make a Moscow Mule – a drink, experimentation with flavours. The best thing about an eye-opener. Usually people try to answer with according to Shaker, that was originally made in it was that the two young imbibers seemed to look at the most flamboyant, obscure suggestions to make 1941 by a sales rep for Smirnoff in the US and a guy alcohol a bit differently. themselves sound good. Needless to say all glasses who was struggling to sell a large order of ginger Perhaps instead of drinking more, they’ll drink were empty following the Mojito round. beer. The ‘mule’ could refer to the drink having a better. We started off with the equipment and set-up. You kick or the copper cocktail mugs with mules on l For course details, contact training coordinator could call it the mise-en-place, but there’s no room them. Simon Turvey on tel: 0121 6222055 or email: for pretension behind this bar. A little more complicated are the sours – the same [email protected]

38 Drinks International drinksint.com august 2011 WSET

From our own correspondent

David Wrigley, the WSET’s international development director, continues our series of bulletins from around the world, this month reporting from Tokyo, Japan

alking off the plane towards arrivals in WTokyo’s Narita airport, the immediate impression is of business as usual in Japan. I’m hoping this is the case: our colleagues here are ready for us – Antony Moss MW and I have a packed schedule of training for WSET educators and assessors, and are looking forward in particular to the training for the new WSET Wine Service qualifications highlighted in last month’s Drinks International. And here in the capital city, the feeling is indeed mostly of business as usual, which, of course, is very much the way such a proud and courteous people as the Japanese would have it. Mostly business as usual. Let’s face it, you can’t suffer a 9.0 magnitude earthquake a mere 200-odd miles away and expect everything to be fully back to normal after just four months. The most significant legacy of what is now officially termed the Great East Japan Earthquake are the electricity-saving measures imposed following the reduction in output caused by the ’quake and tsunami. Messages of support after You see the notices; there may be the odd lift the Great East Japan out of action; the air conditioning may not be Earthquake sepavo/shutterstock.com quite as cool; and there are more lights off at night. But you know what? People agree that for A successful three-day Educator Training With time and the start of a return towards daily life the difference is minimal. Maybe this Programme is followed by an equally productive normality, the first to see an improvement was says something for the electricity we all waste on one-day Assessor Workshop for our new Level the retail sector, as people bought wine to have at a daily basis. 1 and 2 Awards in Wine Service, with delegates home instead of eating out. Arriving at the hotel, there are bamboo plants flying in from Korea and Hong Kong to The big winners here were the wines in in the lobby hung with hundreds of coloured participate. the least expensive price category, which has messages written by visitors and guests who I love the role-play assessment for the Level 1 grown strongly. Then restaurants started to see have donated to the relief fund, a reminder Award – it is perfectly in keeping with the service customers returning, and hotels are now seeing that there are still people living in temporary skills you would hope to find when ordering wine their occupancy rates climbing again. It’s the best accommodation who have lost everything. Then, at table: competent, not complicated. news the country could have. after this further reminder, it is time to get down This will help keep the education and training Antony and I are lucky to be able to visit the to business. wheels turning, but it has to be said that trading prestigious Isojiman sake brewery in Shizuoka, Our contacts are pleased to see us – there conditions here are more challenging than before but now must head our separate ways towards a have been cancelled trips – and it feels good to the earthquake. rendezvous in the US in a few weeks’ time: him be here, especially with WSET educator and In the immediate aftermath, visitors stayed to Canada for more WSET training, me to China, assessor training as our objective. Losing this away and the Japanese did not feel it appropriate about which more next time. slot would set back the business plans of a to go out and enjoy themselves. All sectors number of our course providers, both inside and suffered – hospitality, retail and the supply chain Contact David Wrigley at [email protected] outside Japan. behind them. or via wsetglobal.com

40 Drinks International drinksint.com AUGUST 2011 WSET

From our own correspondent

David Wrigley, the WSET’s international development director, continues our series of bulletins from around the world, back in his New York base Greetings from New York! Contact David Wrigley at [email protected] or via wsetglobal.com Shutterstock/luckyraccoon

40 Drinks International XyxyxyxyxyXyxyxyxyXyxyxyx WineTasting Rioja Alavesa Out of the shadows Report: David Longfield At the premium end, the Capricho de Landaluce Tinto con Crianza raditionally seen as the (18.5/20; Tempranillo from vineyards ‘quiet one’ of the three Rioja more than 80 years old, with 18 Tsub-regions, Rioja Alavesa is months oak; only 20 barrels made beginning to find its own voice. per vintage; €15) is a top-notch, Albeit at the southern extremity of modern-style Rioja. The 2005 is the region, Rioja Alavesa is proud of creamy, rich and ripe, big on structure, – and keen to emphasise – its Basque while the 2006 is more elegant and identity. It is very much the smallest of complex, with more mineral and the sub-regions, with Rioja Alta across toasty character behind its creamy, the river Ebro to the south and west, raspberry and rhubarb top notes. and the upper, north western part of (bodegaslandaluce.es) Rioja Baja bordering its easterly edge. Vineyards in Rioja Alavesa Rioja Alavesa is closest to the Other Rioja Alavesa Cantabrian mountain range, which wines of note provides it with protection from Dominio de Ugarte Reserva 2007, the Atlantic winds. “It’s where the Heredad Ugarte (18/20; Tempranillo + Mediterranean climate and the cool 5% Graciano; 12 months in barrique; sea climate meet, so it’s unusual,” says €12) Heady, deep, bramble fruit Jorge de Pablo of Heredad Ugarte. and truffle aromas. Dense, tight- Grapes conform to the Rioja norm, knit palate packed with ripe, spiced dominated by Tempranillo for reds along fruits and casky wood on the finish. with Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, Tempranillo wine, and at an ex-cellar (egurenugarte.com) with Viura partnered by Malvasia and price of €10 in Spain, well worth White Garnacha for whites. hunting out if you can. Valserrano Graciano 2005, Bodegas de Many of Rioja Alavesa’s 200-plus The same producer has a big, sweet, la Marquesa (17/20; 100% Graciano, wine producers are established family super-ripe Letras Crianza 2006 (18/20; 12-14 months American and French concerns, so there is a strong theme 100% Tempranillo; €25), which is oak; €13) Very warm and rounded, of tradition in the wines. Among heading for Priorat levels of body and baked strawberry/cherry/blackcurrant, those producers are some of the best alcohol (14.5%) but is plump and creamy texture. (valserrano.com) known bodegas in Rioja, whose wines approachable. Also the Cifras Blanco have not necessarily been known as 2009 is an intriguing 100% Garnacha Cincuenta Cosecha 2009, Heredad being from Rioja Alavesa specifically, Blanca (17/20; €15), smoky/mineral Ugarte (17/20; Tempranillo, unfiltered; such as Marqués de Riscal, Luis on the nose, bone dry and full with €7) Gutsy and rustic with great earthy Cañas, Valdemar, Martinez Bujanda, pear and notes of gooseberry and kiwi character, smoky with baked black cherry Remelluri, Contino, Artadi, Campillo fruit to taste. (tierrayvino.com) and plum fruit. (egurenugarte.com) and Bodegas Palacio. A tasting in London in June revealed Bodegas Landaluce Finca Costanillos 2008, Bodegas a great range of styles, from big, The wines of Bodegas Landaluce Zuazo Gaston (17/20; Tempranillo chunky, rustic food wines to modern are well suited to an international + 5% Graciano, 9 months French ‘fruit bomb’-style, juicy reds as well as audience, starting with a bright, jammy, oak) Rich, creamy style, the oak is some whites of the crisp, mineral-laden blackberry/blueberry entry-level evident but well balanced with ample variety and the more typical, waxy, red Landaluce Joven 2010 (16/20; black berry fruit, cut through by oak-aged traditional Rioja type. Tempranillo with 5% Viura, no oak). some good mineral, earthy character. The young white Elle de Landaluce (zuazogaston.com) Agricola Labastida Blanco con Crianza 2010 (16.5/20; Worthy of a “wow” in my tasting 60% Viura/40% Malvasia, two Campillo Reserva Selecta 2004 notes, the Agricola Labastida months in French oak; €4 ex-cellar) (16.5/20; extended ageing, 12 months Tierra Crianza 2007 (19.5/20) is has fleshy, peachy fruit and a dry, American, 12 months French oak) A an exceptionally expressive 100% clean finish, if slightly high in alcohol big, toasty Rioja, with loads of fruit. Tempranillo. Made with a second at 13.5%, while its red partner, Elle (bodegasfaustino.com) fermentation in half cement/half de Landaluce Tinto con Crianza 2007 mixed oak, followed by 12 months (17.5/20; Tempranillo, 10 months Zuazo Gaston Rioja Blanco 2010 (16/20; in French and American barrels, it is oak; €6), is an excellent, deep and Viura + 5% Chardonnay) This is a great really deep, with cooked blackberry, toasty red, with good weight of plump option for a straightforward, fresh, zesty blackcurrant and black cherry fruit blackcurrant, redcurrant and cherry white that’s lively on the palate and and a complexity of smoky wood and fruit. Together they’d make a good suitable for drinking on its own or with damp earth. Hugely characterful for a excuse to throw a paella party. light foods. (zuazogaston.com) august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 41 Excellence in

The Restaurant & Bar Design Awards recognised “excellence” in design and architecture in the global hospitality industry at a ceremony in Canary Wharf, London. The contest saw 330 entrants from 51 countries competing in 11 categories, plus two overall prizes. Judges included: restaurant critic Fay Best Bar & Independent Bar or Club Mashler; editor of Frame magazine Smack, Leamington Spa, UK Femke de Wild; designer Karim Rashid; Designer Steve Smith and design director of Jaguar Cars Ian Callum. They chose Smack, designed by Steve Smith, as best overall bar and Busaba Eathai, designed by David Archer Architects, as best restaurant. Here are the winners

Restaurant/Bar/Club in Another Space Barbican Foodhall, London Designer SHH

Multiple Bar or Club Restaurant or Bar in a Hotel International Bar Grosvenor Café, Glasgow The Bar, Coworth Park, Ascot, UK Tazmania Ballroom, Hong Kong Designer Surface ID Designer Fox Linton Associates Designer Tom Dixon’s Design Research Studio

42 Drinks International Restaurant & Bar Awards

Independent Restaurant Barbican Lounge, London Designer SHH

Identity & Website Design Dock Kitchen, London Designer Here Design

Café or Fast Food Costa Coffee, London Designer Stiff & Trevillion

International Restaurant Look Out Café, Japan Designer Design Spirits and Cave, Australia Designer Koichi Takada

Best Bar & Independent Bar or Club Best Restaurant & Multiple Restaurant Smack, Leamington Spa, UK Busaba Eathai, Bicester, UK Designer Steve Smith Designer David Archer Architects

International Bar Lighting Scheme Pub Tazmania Ballroom, Hong Kong Chan, Greece Stravaigin, Glasgow, UK Designer Tom Dixon’s Design Research Studio Designer Andy Martin Studio Designer Surface ID

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 43 BARZONE

BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS CO

smith sips DI’s Hamish Smith trundles around Murcia to determine whether spirits have ‘terroir’

surely the story of gin’s botanicals and their individual provenance is a worthy topic of investigation

onsider terroir. I have. It’s a botanicals. Fast forward to 2011 and Crather haughty unit of French Bombay’s trouser trick has been vernacular (which is a haughty way ratcheted up a notch. The brand’s of saying ‘word’) that describes the now flying people out to visit the characteristics geography, soil and very farms, groves and orchards climate can bestow upon crops – where its botanicals are born. usually vines. Of course, the word Meet Ivano Tonutti. He’s has reach and relevance beyond Bacardi’s master of botanicals, wine. Take scotch. A palate- and he knows his onions, or at Winner: Charles Joly takes pounder from Islay represents least his lemons, almonds, juniper, Winner: Manabu Ohtake is Diageo the Olmeca Margarita contest Reserve World Class bartender every bit of the island’s peat-laden coriander, angelica, cubeb berries, landscape, seaweed-scented air orris, liquorice, cassia bark and and local spring water. So if scotch grains of paradise. It’s his job to can have terroir, what of the rest of see that Bombay Sapphire gets the global Cocktail competitions: special report the spirits gang? best botanicals and, as I found out, How about gin? England is Ivano may cut down cubeb berries, Pernod Ricard, with its Olmeca tequila brand, Eve’s Answer certainly gin country but there’s but he doesn’t cut corners. has announced the winner of the Tahona 1.5oz Olmeca Altos Reposado the small matter of those exotic, In Murcia, it is lemon peel and Society Margarita contest. ½oz Spiced raisin syrup patently non-indigenous botanicals almonds Ivano’s after. During the Mixologist Charles Joly from The Drawing ¾oz Apple that are synonymous with its taste. visit it wasn’t almond season, but Room in Chicago was named the overall ¾oz Fresh lime juice OK, with multiple ingredients the lemons… well, dismiss what you winner for his creation, Eve’s Answer – an 2 Ceylon cinnamon sticks sourced from all around the world, know of lemons. The gargantuan apple-themed twist on the Margarita. Fifteen we can’t be talking terroir. But grenades of citrus hanging from bartenders from around the world took part Combine Olmeca Altos Reposado, raisin surely the story of gin’s botanicals these trees were something quite in the competition – including representatives syrup, cider and lime juice in mixing glass. and their individual provenance is a different. And the people who from London, Toronto, Cape Town, Moscow, Add ice, shake and strain into hollowed worthy topic of investigation. cultivate them? Traditional, family Shanghai and Mexico City. Joly wins a week apple. Scrape with Ceylon cinnamon and What’s this? (Picture a scroll famers. Yep, Bombay Sapphire likes in Mexico shadowing Olmeca master distiller garnish with remaining stick. unravelling.) Bombay Sapphire the little guys and the little guys Jesús Hernández. invites Drinks International to like Bombay Sapphire (no doubt Hernández was among the judges, along see how two of its botanicals are helped by the brand’s “price as an with co-founder of The Tahona Society Henry it took 11 months to get to the final. Judges cultivated in Murcia, Spain. What irrelevance” policy). Besant and internationally renowned tequila included Dale DeGroff, Salvatore Calabrese, luck! But no surprise – those boys Seeing how Bombay Sapphire’s ambassadors Tomas Estes and Phil Bayly of Café Peter Dorelli, Gary Regan, Hidetsugu Ueno and (and girls) from Bombay have been lemons are grown, peeled and Pacifico and Julio Bermejo of Tommy’s in San Daniel Estremadoyro. banging on about their botanicals dried with such care and precision Francisco. The panel described Joly’s Margarita Ohtake said: “It is an honour to win the for donkeys. makes it clear that it takes the as “a well balanced cocktail that perfectly most prestigious award in the industry and be Let’s set the scene. For centuries business of botanicals seriously. represented the qualities of Olmeca Altos”. judged by icons such as Salvatore Calabrese, gin producers have kept their So perhaps gin doesn’t have The final took place in Mexico. Dale DeGroff and Hidetsugu Ueno. I am really recipes a secret, but not Bombay terroir and perhaps it doesn’t excited about the year ahead, publishing my Sapphire. Back in ’59, in an act of need it. For Bombay Sapphire Manabu Ohtake from Tower’s Bar Bellovisto, first cocktail book and travelling the world with flagrant nonconformity, the then the quality and provenance of its Japan, has been crowned Diageo Reserve World Diageo Reserve.” Bombay Dry pulled its trousers botanicals is enough to make its Class bartender of the year 2011 after fighting The final in Delhi, India included challenges down to the world, revealing its gin, its gin. off competition from 33 other finalists. such as Asian-inspired food matching and Diageo received 10,000 initial entries and classic and vintage drinks with a twist.

44 Drinks International BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS CO

Pernod Ricard rides mexican wave

Pernod Ricard brand Olmeca has announced a partnership with tequila ambassador and Mexican restaurant-bar owner Tomas Estes. Olmeca’s 100% agave tequila, Altos, will become a ‘priority brand’ in Estes’s Café Pacifico premises in London and La Perla in Paris. According to the brand, Estes works closely with the Mexican National Tequila Chamber and has “contributed to the growing success of Tequila The UK heat of the Gin Mare Cocktail globally”. Competition took place last month at the The “increased brand presence” at Estes’s Imbibe show in London. restaurant-bars will include Olmeca cocktails, Sophie Bratt (above), head bartender at educational consumer activity, branded T-shirts for Harvey Nichols department store in Leeds, staff and an Olmeca mural. won with her Eros Panacea cocktail. Bratt will Olivier Fages, international vice-president of be joined at the final in Ibiza in September by Olmeca, said: “Olmeca Altos is already available in other heat winners from around the world. many top-end outlets in the UK, and this partnership Eros Panacea will enable us to target new consumers in a cocktail 50ml Gin Mare environment, while feeding into our ambitious plans 37.5ml Tomato water for continued growth in Europe.” Winner: André Cavalheiro wins 18ml Yellow chartreuse Estes said: “With the increased demand for high Greenhall’s Gin event Rinse of pernod quality 100% agave tequilas, the addition of Olmeca 4 Basil leaves Altos to its [Olmeca] portfolio in 2009 was an

1/3 Chilli exciting phase for the brand, and has established it global Cocktail competitions: special report Pair with Spanish ham, manchego as a preferred choice within the bartender cheese, sweet marinated olives, community. tempura oyster on samphire. “Working closely with Olmeca’s cocktail experts Greenall’s Gin has crowned its cocktail Henry Besant, Matthias Lataille and Steffin Oghene, champion in the final of its Great British we look forward to creating a series of drinks Cocktail contest. Winner: Sophie Bratt’s Eros Panacea won the Gin Mare competition for our menu that will perfectly complement the Andre Cavalheiro of the Devinge Bar at the wonderful qualities of Olmeca Altos as well as Mandeville hotel picked up £250 for himself creating stimulating, educational activities around and £250 for his bar for his creation the Great tequila.” Green Ruby.

The Great Green Ruby 2 Sprigs of penny royal (aka river mint) 6 Juniper berries 15ml Sugar syrup infused with cassis bark, liquorice & juniper 50ml Greenall’s London Dry Gin 25ml Rhubarb liqueur 25ml Lime juice 5ml Crème de cassis Drop of rhubarb bitters Fevertree ginger ale Wash ice with rhubarb bitters. Add all other ingredients (except ginger ale and cassis) to the mixing glass. Shake and double-strain into a chilled martini glass. Top with a splash of ginger ale. Garnish with crystallised anjelica, the cassis (poured slowly over the top of the drink so it sinks to the bottom to create the ‘ruby’) and a piece of anjelica bark studded with a sprig of penny royal.

august 2011 drinksint.com Drinks International 45 DepartureZone...

BOOK Whisky masterminds SHELF

Bourbon Whisky – Our Native Spirit Sour Mash and Sweet Adventures 2011 malt competition By Bernie Lubbers (foreword by Fred Noe) Fancy sititing in the famous black chair? Well, if you do, Last year’s Malt This book reads this might not be the right Mastermind… Mastermind was Colin McMillan like a conversation Anyway, Glenfiddich has launched the 2011 Glenfiddich with Lubbers. In the Malt Mastermind competition. The aim of the game is to beginning he charts find the “trade’s most passionate malt enthusiasts”. his journey from stand-up comedian The competition, which is open to anyone who works in to whisky professor. the UK on-trade, will be promoted via PR, social media and As you’d expect from on-trade events hosted by Glenfiddich brand ambassador a comic, it’s pretty Jamie Milne. funny. Then, after a self-indulgent start, the Milne said: “The Glenfiddich Malt book becomes a useful Mastermind competition will build on our One guide to bourbon – its Day You Will marketing platform by inspiring place in American bartenders to show off malt whisky knowledge history, how to drink it, and innovative serves. where to drink it and a guide to visiting Kentucky. “Through this competition we are looking The book ends with The Bourbon to create a host of new ambassadors who straightforward questionnaire. The deadline is Trail, a song by Lubbers, complete can help to demystify the category, raise October 9. with guitar tabs. the credentials of malt whisky and show Finalists will be invited to a top venue in Published by: Blue River Press Price: $16.95 consumers how versatile and accessible the London later in the year where they will need to liquid can be.” demonstrate their whisky skills and serves to a To enter the Glenfiddich Malt Mastermind panel of industry experts. competition, candidates should visit The winner will receive a trophy, a £1,000 By royal glenfiddich.co.uk/maltmastermind and complete a cash prize and a VIP trip to the Glenfiddich distillery. appointment

HRH The Duchess of Cornwall has White Bordeaux crosses price borders become the new president of the UK Vineyards Association. A bottle of 1811 Château d’Yquem restaurant opens in September 2011. Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, has has been sold for £75,000, setting a He said: “This bottle will serve as a taken over the position from Lord Guinness World Record. central feature and major attraction Montagu of Beaulieu, who has retired. The 200-year-old Bordeaux for my new restaurant.” He will become honorary lifetime was sold by London-based fine According to the Antique Wine president, in recognition of his “long- wine specialist The Antique Wine Company, the checks on authenticity term dedication and commitment to Company to private collector and carried out as part of The Antique the UK wine industry”. Christian Vanneque. Wine Company’s diligence process, The UKVA president is the Stephen Williams, managing proved significant in establishing figurehead of the UK wine industry; director of The Antique Wine the value of the wine. The bottle the UKVA is the central body of Company, said: “The quality of the was accompanied by a ‘record of growers and producers, through 1811 is unparalleled and the vintage inspection’ from Château d’Yquem, which the industry is kept informed of encapsulates all that Château but examinations of the label; bottle legislation and all technical matters, d’Yquem epitomises.” shape, punt and colour; and cork were and advised on best practice in Vanneque bought the rare bottle also necessary for authentication. viticulture and winemaking. for his new establishment, SIP If stored properly, d’Yquem is one The national competition for the Sunset Grill in Bali, Indonesia, of few white wines which can age for industry, the English & Welsh Wine of where it will go on display when the indefinite periods. the Year Competition, is organised by the UKVA.

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46 Drinks International drinksint.com august 2011