Woven Textiles W

Textbook OVEN T EXTILES

CLASS XI

CENTRALCENTRAL BOARDBOARD OFOF SECONDARYSECONDARY EDUCATIONEDUCAATION inin collaborationcollaboration withwith

NNATIONALATIONAL IINSTITUTENSTITUTE OF FFASHIONASHION TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY WOVEN TEXTILES CBSE,India Paper used:80GsmCBSEWatermarkwhiteMaplitho Price : rne y : Printed By : Design, Layout : Published By Copies: First Edition:October2013 Woven Taxtiles,Textbook&PracticalManualClassXI ` 350 1000 275/-- "This bookorpartthereofmaynotbereproducedby TheSecretary,Central BoardofSecondaryEducation, Phone: 011-25783846 Multi Graphics,8A/101,WEAKarolBagh,New Delhi-110005 Delhi-110092 Shiksha Kendra,2,CommunityCentre,PreetVihar, Kalyan EnterprisesD-20,Sec.B3,Tronicacity Gzb(U.P.) any personoragencyinmanner." Hkkjr dk lafo/ku mísf'kdk ge] Hkkjr ds yksx] Hkkjr dks ,d lEiw.kZ 1 ¹izHkqRo&laiUu lektoknh iaFkfujis{k yksdra=kkRed x.kjkT;º cukus ds fy,] rFkk mlds leLr ukxfjdksa dks% lkekftd] vkfFkZd vkSj jktuSfrd U;k;] fopkj] vfHkO;fDr] fo'okl] /eZ vkSj mikluk dh Lora=krk] izfr"Bk vkSj volj dh lerk izkIr djkus ds fy, rFkk mu lc esa O;fDr dh xfjek vkSj 2 ¹jk"Vª dh ,drk vkSj v[kaMrkº lqfuf'pr djus okyh ca/qrk c<+kus ds fy, n`<+ladYi gksdj viuh bl lafo/ku lHkk esa vkt rkjh[k 26 uoEcj] 1949 bZñ dks ,rn~}kjk bl lafo/ku dks vaxhÑr] vf/fu;fer vkSj vkRekfiZr djrs gSaA 1- lafo/ku (c;kyhloka la'kks/u) vf/fu;e] 1976 dh /kjk 2 }kjk (3-1-1977) ls ¶izHkqRo&laiUu yksdra=kkRed x.kjkT;¸ ds LFkku ij izfrLFkkfirA 2- lafo/ku (c;kyhloka la'kks/u) vf/fu;e] 1976 dh /kjk 2 }kjk (3-1-1977) ls ¶jk"Vª dh ,drk¸ ds LFkku ij izfrLFkkfirA

Hkkx 4 d ewy dÙkZO; 51 d- ewy dÙkZO; & Hkkjr ds izR;sd ukxfjd dk ;g dÙkZO; gksxk fd og & (d) lafo/ku dk ikyu djs vkSj mlds vkn'kksZa] laLFkkvksa] jk"Vªèot vkSj jk"Vªxku dk vknj djs_ ([k) Lora=krk ds fy, gekjs jk"Vªh; vkanksyu dks izsfjr djus okys mPp vkn'kksZa dks ân; esa latks, j[ks vkSj mudk ikyu djs_ (x) Hkkjr dh izHkqrk] ,drk vkSj v[kaMrk dh j{kk djs vkSj mls v{kq..k j[ks_ (?k) ns'k dh j{kk djs vkSj vkg~oku fd, tkus ij jk"Vª dh lsok djs_ (Ä) Hkkjr ds lHkh yksxksa esa lejlrk vkSj leku Hkzkr`Ro dh Hkkouk dk fuekZ.k djs tks /eZ] Hkk"kk vkSj izns'k ;k oxZ ij vk/kfjr lHkh HksnHkko ls ijs gksa] ,slh izFkkvksa dk R;kx djs tks fL=k;ksa ds lEeku ds fo#¼ gSa_ (p) gekjh lkekfld laLÑfr dh xkSjo'kkyh ijaijk dk egÙo le>s vkSj mldk ijh{k.k djs_ (N) izkÑfrd i;kZoj.k dh ftlds varxZr ou] >hy] unh] vkSj oU; tho gSa] j{kk djs vkSj mldk lao/Zu djs rFkk izkf.kek=k ds izfr n;kHkko j[ks_ (t) oSKkfud n`f"Vdks.k] ekuookn vkSj KkuktZu rFkk lq/kj dh Hkkouk dk fodkl djs_ (>) lkoZtfud laifÙk dks lqjf{kr j[ks vkSj fgalk ls nwj jgs_ (×k) O;fDrxr vkSj lkewfgd xfrfof/;ksa ds lHkh {ks=kksa esa mRd"kZ dh vksj c<+us dk lrr iz;kl djs ftlls jk"Vª fujarj c<+rs gq, iz;Ru vkSj miyfC/ dh ubZ mapkb;ksa dks Nw ys_ 1(V) ;fn ekrk&firk ;k laj{kd gS] Ng o"kZ ls pkSng o"kZ rd dh vk;q okys vius] ;FkkfLFkfr] ckyd ;k izfrikY; ds fy;s f'k{kk ds volj iznku djsA 1- lafo/ku (N;klhoka la'kks/u) vf/fu;e] 2002 dh /kjk 4 }kjk (12-12-2002) lsa var% LFkkfirA THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA

PREAMBLE WE, THE PEOPLE OF INDIA, having solemnly resolved to constitute India into a 1[SOVEREIGN SOCIALIST SECULAR DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC] and to secure to all its citizens : JUSTICE, social, economic and political; LIBERTY of thought, expression, belief, faith and worship; EQUALITY of status and of opportunity; and to promote among them all FRATERNITY assuring the dignity of the individual and the2 [unity and integrity of the Nation]; IN OUR CONSTITUENT ASSEMBLY this twenty-sixth day of November, 1949, do HEREBY ADOPT, ENACT AND GIVE TO OURSELVES THIS CONSTITUTION.

1. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "Sovereign Democratic Republic” (w.e.f. 3.1.1977) 2. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "unity of the Nation” (w.e.f. 3.1.1977)

THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA Chapter IV A FUNDAMENTAL DUTIES ARTICLE 51A Fundamental Duties - It shall be the duty of every citizen of India- (a) to abide by the Constitution and respect its ideals and institutions, the National Flag and the National Anthem; (b) to cherish and follow the noble ideals which inspired our national struggle for freedom; (c) to uphold and protect the sovereignty, unity and integrity of India; (d) to defend the country and render national service when called upon to do so; (e) to promote harmony and the spirit of common brotherhood amongst all the people of India transcending religious, linguistic and regional or sectional diversities; to renounce practices derogatory to the dignity of women; (f) to value and preserve the rich heritage of our composite culture; (g) to protect and improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers, wild life and to have compassion for living creatures; (h) to develop the scientific temper, humanism and the spirit of inquiry and reform; (i) to safeguard public property and to abjure violence; (j) to strive towards excellence in all spheres of individual and collective activity so that the nation constantly rises to higher levels of endeavour and achievement; 1(k) who is a parent or guardian to provide opportunities for education to his/her child or, as the case may be, ward between age of six and forteen years.

1. Ins. by the constitution (Eighty - Sixth Amendment) Act, 2002 S.4 (w.e.f. 12.12.2002) WOVEN TEXTILES Sr. Prof Banhi Jha, Dean(A) Sr. Associate Professor, Textile Design Department, NIFT Design Department, NIFT Textile Associate Professor, , Associate Professor, Textile Design Department, NIFT Mumbai Textile , Associate Professor, Woven Textiles Woven Gandhinagar Contributors Anchor CBSE NIFT Textile refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, braiding, and other weaving, knitting, crocheting, to any material made through refers Textile Preamble: non-woven textiles. non-woven textiles. the development involves complete cycle right from Development of textile of fibre to fabric ranging from 100% natural fibres to 100 % synthetic materials. to 100 % synthetic materials. ranging from 100% natural fibres of fibre to fabric it also Then involves a complete vision of development of new design aspects for novelty in fabric surface, design aspects for novelty in vision of development of new involves a complete textile products and various other textile materials. It includes designing of fabric used in It includes designing of and various other textile materials. textile products clothing, house hold textiles, decorative textiles and others. It involves design intervention and others. It involves design hold textiles, decorative textiles clothing, house the final product within the technical specification and right along with the development of Textiles” course is introduced as an elementary course. The course will provide an overview of course is introduced as an elementary course. Textiles” commercial value. varieties of fabric using various innovative weaves “Woven In order to understand and create Textiles which are produced in the Textile Industry. The overall objective of this course is to Industry. which are produced in the Textile Textiles understand the basics textiles, related terminologies and the overall work pattern of textile related terminologies and the overall work pattern of textile understand the basics textiles, 1. Mohammed Javed Mr. Programme Officer), Vocational Cell Programme Officer), Vocational Design Department Chairperson, Textile Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Assoc. Prof.& (Associate Professor and Programme Officer)(Associate Professor and Programme Registrar Cell Kripal Mathur, Prof. Vocational Ms. Swati Gupta (Assistant Professor and Assistant Mr. Vineet Joshi, IAS Vineet Mr. Biswajit Saha Dr. Gera, IAS Prem Kumar Mr. industry 2. Ms. Shubhangi Yadav, WOVEN TEXTILES Comments andsuggestionsforfurtherimproving thecurriculumarealwayswelcome isalsodeeplyappreciated. Education Cell,CBSE Programme Officer, Vocational andothermembersofVocational EducationCell,CBSE Vocational andMs.SwatiGupta,AssistantProfessor EducationCell,CBSE I wouldliketoappreciateDr. BiswajitSaha,AssociateProfessorandProgrammeOfficer, Shri. Shivalingam. Sen, AssistantProf, Bhopal,Mr. DebojyotiGanguly, AssistantProf., Bhopaland Yadav, AssociateProf, Gandhinagar, MohammadJaved,AssociateProf., Mumbai;Shri.Arnab Prof. AnupamJain,Hyderabad,Ms.KislayChoudhary, AssistantProf. Bhopal;Ms.Shubhangi Textile alsoacknowledgesthecontributionby DesignDepartmentacrossNIFTcenters.CBSE Project Anchor-Textile Design.Thecourseisdevelopedandpreparedbyfacultymembersfrom Project In-charge and Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Chairperson, TextileProject In-chargeandMs.SavitaSheoranRana, DesignDepartment, rendered byShriP the learningMaterial.IplaceonrecordBoard'sthankfulacknowledgementofservices The Faculty oftheNationalInstituteFashion Technology hasdevelopedthecurriculumand industry afterClassXIIortheycanpursuehighereducationinthisfield. procedures andintroductiontoourtraditionaltextiles.Thiswillhelpstudentsjointhe introduce studentstoElementsofDesign,Fabric science,Woven textiles,Dyeing&Printing introduce “Textile Design” as a vocational course for Class XI and XII. Thecourseaimsto introduce “Textile Design”asa vocationalcourseforClassXIandXII. In order to match the increasing requirement of skilled personnel, CBSE hasinitiatedto In ordertomatchtheincreasingrequirementofskilledpersonnel,CBSE sector suchastextilesandApparel,handicraft,handlooms,jutesericulture. 2,675,000 peoplewithinthenext5years.Thisschemewouldcoverallsubsectorsoftextile the countryintermsofafteragriculture. sprte1 Fiveyearplan,theintegratedskilldevelopmentschemeaims totrainover As perthe12 GDP ofthecountry. Indiatextileindustryisalsothesecondlargestproviderofemploymentin nearly14% ofthetotalindustrialproductioncountry. Italsocontributesaround3%tothe exchange throughtextileexports.Further, thetextileindustryofIndiaalsocontributes and isoneoftheleadingtextileindustriesinworld.Indiaearnsabout27%itstotalforeign and The Indian Textiles Industry has an over whelming presence in the economic life of the country The IndianTextiles Industryhasanoverwhelmingpresenceintheeconomiclifeofcountry th . K.Gera,DirectorGeneral,NIFT, Sr. ProfBanhi Jha,Dean-Academics, Foreward Vineet Joshi Chairman WOVEN TEXTILES Non-Woven on the basis of fibre / Non-Woven and Woven Textiles Woven processes associated terminologies. yarn types. Industrial Revolution. To Introduce weaving Introduce weaving To and weaving terminologies looms category and the preparatory to Weaving familiarize students Technology, To To gain an overview of the various woven structures To To introduce scope of Woven design industry. introduce scope of Woven To To introduce students to the woven textiles industry. introduce students to the woven textiles industry. To The unit deals with all the important definitions of woven textiles and various The unit deals with all the important Introduction of looms and its parts. To sensitize students towards fabric classification and different fibre types. sensitize students towards fabric classification and different fibre To i.ii. Ends /Warp Picks / Weft iii. Selvedge iv. Construction - Ends / Inch and Picks /Inch Fabric v. Reed Count and warping calculations 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 a. to textiles and various terminologies. Introduction b. The classification of textiles in terms of Woven a. weaving, its history in terms of traditional weaving Understand and the impact of b. terminologies Weaving Class XI Based Theory and Practical Unit I – Introduction of Woven Textiles Textiles Unit I – Introduction of Woven Preamble Objective: 1. – to Textiles Introduction Course Content: 2. – Introduction to Weaving WOVEN TEXTILES ntI Weaving Technology Unit II Objective: Evaluation Criteria: Assignment: Teaching Methodology: At theendofunitstudentshallbeable Learning Outcome: .Looms– 3. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 .Itsclassificationsonthebasisofshuttleandlesslooms,powerloom, b. What isaloom. a. – To introduceyarnpreparatory -animportantprerequisiteforweaving. Looms classificationsand loomparts. The unitwillintroducethestudentstovariousloom mechanisms. Viva- voice forswatchbookandpresentation. Quality ofworksubmitted. Presentation –verbalpresentation,visualunderstandingofthetopic, Selection ofswatches,identification,classificationandpresentationasaswatch Group Assignment Preparation ofFabric Watch Book The teacherwouldbeexpectedtocreatealibraryoffabricsexplain. The teachershallplanavisittoweavingunitofcompositetextilemill. Illustrated lectureswithpowerpointpresentations. To classifyandidentifyvariouslooms To understandweavingtechnology To differentiatetypesofwovenfabrics group management. book. a presentationononetypeofLoom. yarns. woven, knittedandfusedfabrics.Theswatchesshouldbemadeofdifferentfibre handloom, tappet,jacquardanddobby. – Presentationbyagroupof5-6students.Theshallmake –10sourcedfabricswatches(8”x8”)of WOVEN TEXTILES weaving preparatory and denting preparatory and for eight inch wide swatches. The process involved in preparing design, draft and peg plan The process involved in preparing Complete details about Looms and its parts. Complete details about Looms and weaving The preparatory procedures for Illustrated lectures with Power Point presentations Point Illustrated lectures with Power Unit to a composite textile mill – Preparatory Visit Setting up of loom – the student will individually set up a loom- three meters of warp, Setting up of loom – the student will individually set up a loom- three Daily assessment on presentation of work Level of improvement if required regularity and sincerity Punctuality, Quality of loom setup a. Complete loom details with and other terminologies associated – its parts, motions a. – winding, warping, weft preparation of loom for weaving Processes involved in a. / Design Paper / Graph Paper Paper Usage of Point b. and Weft of Warp Methodology of Interlacement d. Design, draft and peg plan preparation e. Different types of draft plan c. Construction of Fabric 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Course Content: Course 1. – Mechanism Weaving 2. Preparatory – Loom 3. Design Introduction to Weave Learning Outcome: shall know, the end of the unit the students At Teaching Methodology: Teaching Assignment: Evaluation Criteria WOVEN TEXTILES Assignment: Teaching Methodology: At theendofunitstudentsshallknow, Learning Outcome: .IntroductiontoSatinWeave 3. .IntroductiontoTwillWeave 2. .IntroductiontoPlainWeave 1. Course Content: Objective: ntII Fabric Structure Unit III 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 – Preparation ofdocument ofthewovenswatches. Weaving practical – to weave 3 swatches of 8”x8”ofplain,twill andsateenweave. Weaving practical–toweave3swatchesof The swatchesshouldbecollectedintermsofthe differentdesigns–stripes,checks, The teacherwouldbeexpectedtocreatealibrary offabricstoexplainandconductthe Illustrated lectureswithPower Point Presentations How to prepare design,draftandpegplan How toprepare How todrawthestructuresondesignpaper The threebasicfabricstructures Irregular Satin/Sateen Characteristics ofSateen Derivatives ofTwillWeave Characteristics ofTwillWeave Derivatives ofPlainWeave Ornamentation ofPlainWeave Characteristics ofPlainWeave To developplain,twillandsateenweavestructureusingpointpaper. To introducefabricstructuresanddesigndevelopment. structures. textures andotherrelateddesignswhichcanbe developedusingthesethreeweave class. WOVEN TEXTILES Clothing / Apparel / Clothing Home Fashion Accessories making the designs. To introduce the students to the commercial aspect of the woven textiles. to the commercial aspect introduce the students To to woven structures and usage of computer for This unit will introduce the students To identify Fabric types and product categories. types and product categories. identify Fabric To identify fabric as per end use To develop design on computer To Illustrated lectures with Power Point Presentations Point Illustrated lectures with Power 2 2 2 i.ii. Industry Segments of Indian Textile Industry structure of Textile Basic iii. loom Handloom and Power Industry Textile iii. Selection of fabric as per end use based on its quality i.ii. fabric Commercial names of the and its end uses Fabrics Various i. design on Computer Structures and development of woven Woven 2 2 2 2 2 2 3. Regularity and sincerity Objective: Evaluation Criterion: Evaluation 1. of weaving Quality 2. of documentation Quality 1. Industry Textile An overview of the Course Content: 2. the fabrics with Commercial Names Identification of 3. Design Computerization in Textile Learning Outcome: the end of the unit, the students shall be able At Teaching Methodology: Teaching Unit IV – An Overview of the Weaving Industry Overview of the Weaving Unit IV – An WOVEN TEXTILES Reference Material: Reference Evaluation Criteria: Assignment: 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 The NewTextiles- Trends&Traditions-ChloeColchester, Thames&Hudson1997 International Textile Design-MarySchoeser, JohnWiley &Sons,Inc.1995 Textile Terms andDefinitions-TheTextile Institution,ManchesterU.K. TheTextile Warp &Weft -ADictionaryofTextile Terms -DorothyK.Burnham,Charles The AshfordBookofWeaving -AnneField,B.T. Batsford,London,1992 Watson's Textile Design and Colour-I - Z.Watson's Grosiki,UniversalPublishing,Bombay Textile DesignandColour-I- The Four-Shaft Table Loom-AnneField,DryadPressLtd.London1987 Principles ofWeaving -R.Marks,A.T. C. Robinson Presentation asaswatchbook Identification andclassificationofFabrics Selection ofswatches Suggestive Preparation ofFabric swatchbook Institution, ManchesterU. K.1993 Seribner's Son,NewYork, 1981 and sateen.Theswatchesshouldbeofdifferenttypesintermsdesignpatterns – 1-2swatchescouldbe“NEWDESIGN”asidentifiedbythestudents –10fabricsswatches(8”x8”)ofplain,twill WOVEN TEXTILES Course Content Course 1.4.1 Natural Fibre1.4.2 Manmade Fibre 5 5 1.5.5 Textiles Technical 6 1.5.1 Interlacing – Weaving1.5.2 Interloping – Knitting1.5.3 / Felting) Bonding (Non-Woven 1.5.4 Tufting 6 6 6 6 3.1.1 Shuttle Looms3.1.2 Shuttle Less Looms 10 9 2.1 History of Weaving2.2 Earliest Looms2.3 Industry Development of Textile 2.4 Mechanization of Looms 8 7 8 7 1.5 Classification of Textiles 6 3.1 of Looms Classification 9 1.4 Fibres Types of Textile 4 1.1 Introduction1.2 What is Fabric1.3 The Raw Material 2 3 4 1.6 Textiles Technical 6 4.1 Introduction 18 Unit – II: Weaving TechnologyUnit – II: Weaving 17–43 Unit – I: Introduction to Woven Textiles to Woven Unit – I: Introduction 1–16 Chapter – 1: Introduction to Textiles 2 Chapter – 2: Introduction to Weaving 7 Chapter – 3: Looms 9 Chapter – 4: Loom Preparatory 18 WOVEN TEXTILES hpe : evn ehns 23 Weaving Mechanism Chapter –5: . evn 27 27 ImportantWeaving Terminologies 5.5 Weaving 5.4 25 Basic OperationsinWoven ClothProduction 5.3 . hdigMcaim28 SheddingMechanism 5.6 . motn at faLo 24 23 ImportantParts ofaLoom 5.2 Passage ofYarn ontheLoom 5.1 . rprtr rcs o evn 19 PreparatoryProcessforWeaving 4.2 .. evde28 28 27 28 27 27 Total Warp Ends 5.5.6 Selvedge 26 27 26 26 27 25 5.5.5 PicksPer Inch(PPI) 5.5.4 Count Reed 25 5.5.3 EndsPer Inch(EPI) 5.5.2 Fabric Density 25 5.5.1 24 24 Warp andWeft-Stop Motion 24 24 5.3.7 Warp-Protector Motion 5.3.6 TheClothTake-Up 5.3.5 24 Warp Let-Off 5.3.4 Beating-up 5.3.3 Picking 5.3.2 Shedding 5.3.1 ClothBeam 5.2.6 BreastBeam 5.2.5 BackRest 5.2.4 Warp Beam 5.2.3 Reed 5.2.2 HealdShaft 5.2.1 .. rprtr o et21 19 PreparatoryforWeft 4.2.2 PreparatoryforWarp 4.2.1 WOVEN TEXTILES 8.2.2 Rib Weft 8.2.3 Matt Weave 52 53 8.2.1 Rib Warp 51 6.6.1 Straight Draft6.6.2 Skip Draft6.6.3 Draft Point 6.6.4 Sateen Draft 36 36 37 37 5.6.2 Mechanism Dobby Shedding 5.6.3 Mechanism Jacquard Shedding 28 29 5.6.1 Mechanism Shedding Tappet 28 7.1 Structure Fabric 7.2 Introduction to Weaves8.1 and its Characteristics Plain Weave 8.2 Derivatives of Plain Weave 48 46 45 51 6.5 Plan Relation Between Design, Draft and Peg 6.6 Types of Drafting 35 6.7 Denting 35 38 6.1 Introduction6.2 Representation Method of Fabric 6.3 Plans and Peg Construction of Drafts 6.4 of Construction Method 33 30 30 34 9.1 Characteristics of Twill Weave9.2 Balanced Twill and Unbalanced Twill9.3 Regular Twill 55 55 57 – Chapter – 7: Introduction to Weaves 45 Chapter – 9: Introduction to Twill Weave 55 Chapter – 8: Introduction to Plain Weave 48 Chapter – 6: Designing Weave 30 Unit Structure III: Fabric 44–68 WOVEN TEXTILES Glossary 92–95 69–91 IV: AnOverviewofWeaving Industry Unit hpe 3 Cmueiaini etl ein88 74 ComputerizationinTextile Design Chapter –13: IdentificationoftheFabrics withCommercialNames Chapter –12: hpe 1 nOeve fteTxieidsr 70 58 AnOverviewoftheTextile industry Chapter –11: IntroductiontoSateen&SatinWeave Chapter –10: – 31Itouto 88 89 AdvancementinLoomTechnology 13.2 Introduction 13.1 11Itouto 70 72 71 72 BasicstructureofTextile Industry 11.4 HandloomandPower loomTextile Industry 11.3 SegmentsofIndianTextile Industry 11.2 11.1 Introduction 01Cntuto n hrceitc fSte/ai ev 58 ConstructionandCharacteristics ofSateen/SatinWeave 10.1 WOVEN TEXTILES Unit - 1 Woven Textiles Woven Introduction to Introduction WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 1: ..INTRODUCTION 1.1. ..WHAT ISFABRIC? 1.2. There aremanymethods offabricmanufacturing,eachcapableproducing agreat A Fabric maybedefined asaplanarassemblyoffibre,yarnsorcombination Other thanthis,textilesalsohaveanassortmentofotheruses,likemakingcontainers Manufacturing oftextilesisonetheoldestindustry. Textiles playanimportantrolein variety ofstructuresdepending uponrawmaterialsused.Theparticular fabricselected these. etc. handkerchiefs, cleaningrags,transportationdevices suchasballoons,sails,parachutes, such asfiltering,belts,etc.Miscellaneoususes includeflags,backpacks,tents,nets, and alsoartpieces.Intheworkplace,theyareusedinindustrialscientificprocesses our dailylives.Itcatersforthefundamentalhumanneedclothingandprotection furnishings, windowshades,towels,coveringfortables,beds,andotherflatsurfaces, such asbagsandbaskets;inthehousehold,theyareusedcarpeting,upholstered and fulfilsbasicdemandfordecoration.

Fig 1.1:Textiles forApparel Introduction ToTextiles 2 Fig 1.2:HomeTextiles WOVEN TEXTILES refers to any material Textile 3 refers to any material made through weaving, refers to any material made Fabric may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a may be used synonymously with Fig 1.3: Close-up view of a Fabric Cloth Fig 1.4: Fiber and Yarn - The raw material for making a Fabric Fig 1.4: Fiber and Yarn for a given application depends on the performance requirements imposed by the end use by the end use imposed requirements on the performance application depends for a given and/or the desired aesthetic characteristics of the end user with consideration for cost for cost user with consideration of the end characteristics desired aesthetic and/or the as apparel, home used for many applications such as stated above, are and price. Fabrics, furnishings and industrial. The most commonly used methods for fabric - forming are used methods for fabric - forming industrial. The most commonly furnishings and interlacing, interloping, bonding and tufting. interlacing, interloping, subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. subtle differences in these terms made of interlacing fibres. knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further knitting, spreading, crocheting, goods (garments, etc.). finished piece of fabric used for a specific purpose (e.g., table cloth). finished piece of fabric used for a The words fabric and cloth are often used as synonyms for textile. However, there are often used as synonyms for textile. However, The words fabric and cloth are 1.3. MATERIAL THE RAW

WOVEN TEXTILES ..TYPESOFTEXTILEFIBRES 1.4.

production andthedesirabilityoftheirpropertiestoconsumer. ability tobespun,theiravailabilityinsufficientquantity, thecostoreconomyof modifications and enhancement. Somefibreshavebeendevelopedovertheyearsin modifications andenhancement. laboratory andhaveacquiredvarieddegreeofimportanceintherecentyears. strands offibresaretwistedorspuntogethertoforma sufficient strength.ManydifferentkindsoffibresareusedformakingaYarn. The to bespunintoyarnincludesalengthofatleast5mm,flexibility, cohesivenessand very smallindiameterrelationtotheirlength.Theessentialrequirementforthefibre are delicate,hairportionsofthetissuesaplantoranimalothersubstancethat 1.4.1. The textilefibresareoftwotypes- The factorsinfluencingthedevelopmentandutilizationofallfibresincludetheir Some ofthesefibresarebeingusedsincetheearlieryearscivilizationtilltoday, with The basicrawmaterialusedbythetextileindustryformakingafabricisFibre. according totheirorigin geological processes.Theyarebiodegradableover time.Theycanbeclassified Natural Fibre- Fig 1.5:Animal Fibre -wool Fig 1.8:Yarns fromManmade Fibres Thesefibresincludethoseproducedbyplants, animalsand 4 Fig 1.6:Vegetable Fibre -Jute Fig 1.9:NylonFibre-being used as Racket Net used asRacket Yarn thatismadeintoaFabric. Fibre -Asbestos Fig 1.7:Mineral Fibres

WOVEN TEXTILES Fig 1.12: Non-woven Fabric - used as Tissue They are synthesized or created from They are synthesized or created The natural material of cellulose can be The natural material 5 They are composed of metal, plastic coated metal, They are composed of metal, Various minerals have been manufactured into glass, minerals have been manufactured into glass, Various They are found in the cell wall of plants and are in the cell wall of plants and They are found - used as Sweater These are mined from certain types of rocks, E.g.:Asbestos from certain types of rocks, E.g.:Asbestos These are mined They are produced by animals or insects and are protein in and are protein or insects produced by animals They are These are derived from various sources. For instance, from various sources. For These are derived changed in form and other characteristic to form manmade cellulosic fibre. changed in form and other characteristic E.g.: Rayon, Modal taken from cotton linters and wood pulp, processed chemically and taken from cotton linters and various elements into large molecules which are called linear polymers various elements into large molecules fashion. E.g.: Acrylic fibre, Nylon because they are connected in link-like fibre fibre, Polyester metal-coated plastic or a core completely covered by metal. They are used metal-coated plastic or a core completely as decorative yarn for various apparel and home furnishings. as decorative yarn for various apparel ceramic and graphite fibers having prescribed properties for specific use. ceramic and graphite fibers having E.g.: Glass fibers composition, E.g.: Silk fibre and Wool fibre and Wool E.g.: Silk fibre composition, fibre E.g., cotton fibre, jute fibre. cellulosic in composition. a) Fibre - Animal b) Mineral Fibre - c) - Fibre Vegetable a) Manmade Cellulosic Fibre - b) Fibres - Non-cellulosic Polymer c) Metallic Fibers - d) Minerals Fibers - Fig 1.10:Woven FabricFig 1.10:Woven Fig 1.11:Knitted Fabric fabric forming methods are: 1.4.2. Manmade Fibre - Fabrics maybe classified on the basis of way they are formed. The most commonly used maybe classified Fabrics

1.5. OF TEXTILES CLASSIFICATION WOVEN TEXTILES introduce thestudentto thetermTechnical Textiles. TECHNICAL TEXTILES 1.6. fiber. Itwilltellinbrief theclassificationsoffibresandvarioustypestextiles.Itwillalso world ofTextiles. Itwilldefinethefabricandraw materialusedtomakeafabric-yarnand make afabric.Therearemanywaysofmakingit. Thischapterwillintroducethestudentto A textileisoneoftheoldestindustries.There are variousformsofrawmaterialsrequiredto Summary: astronaut's suitduringaspacewalkmaybefatal. industrial textilecandevastating.For example,failureofanairbaginacaraccidentor applications stringentperformancerequirementsmustbemetasanyfailureofan clothing, againstmoltenmetalsforwelders,stabprotection,andbulletproofvests). crop protection),protectiveclothing(e.g.againstheatandradiationforfirefighter (e.g. implants),geotextiles(reinforcementofembankments),agrotextiles(textilesfor textile structuresforautomotiveapplications(Tirecordfabricintires),medicaltextiles appearance, arecommonlyreferredtoas They aredesignedtoworkforheavydutyanddemandingapplications.Inallthese Textiles usedforindustrialpurposes,andchosencharacteristicsotherthantheir ...Tufting 1.5.4. ...Bonding(Non-Woven /Felting) 1.5.3. ...Interloping-Knitting 1.5.2. ...Interlacing-Weaving 1.5.1. which areperpendiculartooneanother. Example:Shirting "Sewing" asurfaceyarnsystemofloopsthroughprimarybackingfabricinto Bonding togetherofentangledfiberorfilamentyarn,mechanically, thermally Interloping ofoneyarnsystemintoverticalcolumnsandhorizontalrowsloops Interlacing oflengthwiseyarn(warp)withthewidthwise(weft/filling) Fabric mustbeback-coated inalaterprocesstosecuretuftedloops loops (piles)withthefabriccomingoutofmachineinrowsdirection. vertical columns(rows)andhorizontallines(stitches)formingcutand/oruncut or chemicallytoformasheetwebstructure.Example:Lininginautomobiles wales direction.Example:Sweaters,hosiery called walesandcoursesrespectivelywithfabriccomingoutofthemachinein 6 Technical Textiles. Technical textilesinclude WOVEN TEXTILES ends , a device that holds the , a device that holds (horizontal yarns) are woven (horizontal yarns) loom yarns

7 Introduction To Weaving Introduction picks or filling

(vertical Yarns) in place while in place while (vertical Yarns) certainly preceded looms by many thousands of years. There is mention of invention of certainly preceded looms by many weaving in the legends of most of the culture, except for the Chinese. weaving in the legends of most of birds that weave nests or watching the wind interlace the leaves of date palm or see the birds that weave nests or watching spider making its net on the bush or by studying the silkworm to see if thread can be spider making its net on the bush made usable. There are innumerable legends and stories in every culture that are linked made usable. There are innumerable with notion of weaving but in every story it appears that nature itself planted the first with notion of weaving but in every seeds of weaving. forms of basketry techniques were employed wherein different types of fibers, roots were forms of basketry techniques were coiled, intertwined to make baskets. These were initially used as vessels for carrying fish coiled, intertwined to make baskets. These were initially used as from fish traps and roots and berries from forests but they were eventually applied to from fish traps and roots and berries from forests but they were hampers, cradles, etc. Basketry was modified to mat-making used for carpets, coverings, wrappings as well as temporary shelters for house. Age or the New Stone Age was a period in the development of human technology). The Age or the New Stone Age was a period in the development of "Loom" of that age is best defined as any frame or contrivance for holding warp threads "Loom" of that age is best defined as any frame or contrivance for parallel to permit the interlacing of the weft at right angles to form a web. Hence the parallel to permit the interlacing of the weft at right angles to from cord stretched between two upright wooden poles to the sophisticated looms of the from cord stretched between two upright wooden poles to the sophisticated looms have evolved from the simplest structure wherein the warp were freely suspended looms have evolved from the simplest structure wherein the warp modern age. It is not known clearly how weaving began, but it appears that the idea of weaving It is not known clearly how weaving It can be presumed that the man first got the idea to weave by maybe observing certain It can be presumed that the man Plaiting and Baskets making was a preliminary step to weaving cloth. Various different a preliminary step to weaving cloth. Various Plaiting and Baskets making was The weaving of textiles on the loom is believed to have begun in Neolithic Age (Neolithic The weaving of textiles on the loom is believed to have begun in .

Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns are interlaced at in which two distinct sets is a method of fabric production Weaving right angles to form a fabric. The fabric is usually woven on a a fabric. The fabric is usually right angles to form or warp through them. The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the and filling threads interlace with each other is called the through them. The way the warp Weave 2.2. EARLIEST LOOMS

2.1. OF WEAVING HISTORY Chapter- 2: 2: Chapter- WOVEN TEXTILES which leadtomakingitasanIndustrialProduct. development ofTextile Industry. Italsoexplainsastohowthedemandoffabricincreased power drivenmachine.Thechaptertracesthe journeyofthisdevelopmentloomtothe used toweavefabric-hasalsoevolved.Itstarted fromasimpleframe,tohandloomloom from earlyagegivinganideaastohowpossiblyweaving couldhaveoriginated.Theloom-device This chapterwilltakethestudentthroughjourney ofevolutionWeaving Industry. Itstarts Summary: ..MECHANIZATION OFLOOMS 2.4. ..DEVELOPMENTOFTEXTILEINDUSTRY 2.3. A Manchester factory manufactured this loom. Workers protestedoverlossofjobswhich A Manchesterfactorymanufacturedthisloom. The thrust towards mechanization of looms began before Industrial Revolution. The thrusttowardsmechanizationofloomsbeganbeforeIndustrialRevolution. The horizontalloomsmadeitpossibletoweavelonglengthsoffabricandatspeedmore In earlyage,weavingonloomswasahouseholdactivitypracticedmainlybywomen. traditional looms. the artisanswentinanonymity. Homeweavingofcoursecontinuedasbeforeon output ofahandweaver. Thegoldenageofhand-weaving cametoanendinEnglandand lead toriotinginearlynineteenthcenturyEngland,butIndustrializationhadstarted. One operatorwithonehelpcouldoperatefourloomsandproducetwentytimesthe his firstloombyanoxandcapstanbutthiswassoonadaptedforasteamversion. invention ofanAnglicanclergymannamedEdmundCartwright.Cartwrightpowered pace withthespinners.Aftermanyunsuccessfulattemptsasolutionwasarrivedatby power-loom weavingcamewiththedevelopmentofspinningmachineryinordertokeep Experiments towardsmakingmechanicalloomshadstartedbuttherealpush cheap enoughforthepeasantstobeablebuythemselves. peasants stillcontinuedtospin,dyeandweavetheirowncloth,tilltheclothbecame products ofhorizontalloomsfromtheotherprimitivelooms.However, inruralareas occurred aftertheweavingofcloth.Thesefinishingprocessesdistinguished in urbanareas.Theindustrystartedbecomingspecializedwhichinvolvedprocessesthat than theprimitivelooms.Thisbroughtaboutcommercializationofclothproduction signals thebirthofEuropeanweavingasacommercialenterprise. With theinvention ofhorizontalloommentookovertheactivityweavingandthis 8 WOVEN TEXTILES LOOM WATERJET WEAVING MACHINE LOOMS CIRCULAR LOOM PROJECTILE LOOMS SHUTTLE LESS LOOM RAPIER LOOMS 9 . The weaving machine provides the means to machine provides the means to . The weaving LOOM TABLE TABLE LOOM AIRJET loom Fig 3.1: Loom Classification Diagram LOOM is a device that contains a bobbin on which filling yarn is wound. The is a device that contains a bobbin on which filling yarn is wound. TREADLE HANDLOOM LOOM SHUTTLE Shuttle LOOM

POWER PIT LOOM insertion of filling. The basic classification of the looms is as follows: insertion of filling. The basic classification insertion. shuttles are available in different shapes depending on the type of loom they are to be shuttles are available in different shapes depending on the type versatile and effective used. Shuttle looms are among the oldest kind of looms. They are warp ends during every but there are certain disadvantages. As the shuttle passes over picking cycle, it causes abrasion, which lead to thread breakage. So it cannot be used for picking cycle, it causes abrasion, which lead to thread breakage. The loom is classified on the basis of method of insertion of weft. There are many ways for The loom is classified on the basis For many years weaving machines depended on shuttle as the primary device for weft many years weaving machines depended on shuttle as the For

Weaving is done on a machine called Weaving interlace warp and filling yarns to form woven fabric. It provides mechanisms by which different It provides mechanisms by filling yarns to form woven fabric. interlace warp and interlacements are made possible for warp yarns and weft yarns. Over a period of time, the loom and weft yarns. Over a period of made possible for warp yarns interlacements are has undergone significant modification, but the basic principles and operation remain the same. basic principles and operation remain modification, but the has undergone significant 3.1.1. SHUTTLE LOOMS

3.1. OF LOOMS CLASSIFICATION Chapter- 3: 3: Chapter- WOVEN TEXTILES 3.1.2. SHUTTLELESS LOOMS SHUTTLELESS 3.1.2. ....ProjectileLooms: 3.1.2.1. Shuttle lessloomsweredevelopedtoovercometheproblemsoflooms.These modern loomsusethreeprominentdevicesforpickinsertion. qualities likeshirtinganddressmaterialcouldbemanufacturedwiththeselooms.The looms werefasterandalsoreducedthebreakageofyarnduringweaving.Finerfabric be differentvarietiesofhandloomwhichareusuallyusedbyartisans(craftsmen) slow andnoisier. Shuttleloomscanbepowerwhichareusedinmillsectororcould weaving finercountyarnfabricvarieties.Comparedtomoremodernloomstheyarealso feeder Projectile Fig 3.1:LineDiagramofProjectile loom package Supply Sciossors projectile Gripper Fig 3.2:ShuttleLoom grippers Selvedge 10 grippers Selvedge WOVEN TEXTILES Single Rapier and 11 . Single rapier is one long rapier device that carries the weft . Single rapier is one long rapier Fig 3.5: Airjet Loom Fig 3.4: Close up view of a Rapier The projectile is like a bullet which grips the weft and carries it through the carries it through the weft and which grips is like a bullet The projectile shed and returns empty. It can be used to make wide variety of basic fabrics, make wide variety of basic fabrics, It can be used to empty. shed and returns to reduce friction. yarn to be smooth and uniform but it requires the Double Rapier from one side of the loom to other and returns back empty. Whereas in double and returns back empty. from one side of the loom to other rapier, one rapier feeds the weft halfway through the shed to another rapier, shed to another rapier, one rapier feeds the weft halfway through the rapier, which then carries it across rest of the way. The double rapiers could be rigid, of the way. which then carries it across rest flexible or telescopic. These looms are faster and also less noisy than the shuttle looms, rapier and These looms are faster and also less noisy than the shuttle looms, looms are projectile loom. The filling yarn is also under less tension. Airjet used for producing wide variety of fabrics. This is the first proven Shuttle less loom developed in 1950s in Switzerland. 1950s in Switzerland. developed in Shuttle less loom first proven This is the Rapiers, weft, are of two types - used to insert the The looms use jet of air to propel the weft yarn across the shed of the loom. The looms use jet of air to propel the weft yarn across the shed 3.1.2.2. Rapier Looms 3.1.2.3. Airjet Looms

WOVEN TEXTILES Modern Looms. understand thevarioustypesofloomsthatarebeing usedintheindustry. Italsointroducesthe requirement like-speed,typeoffabric,enduser andbudget.Thestudentinthischapterwill various techniquesofweftinsertion.Anindustry usesagivenmethoddependingonits method usedforweftinsertion,theloomsare classifiedintovariouscategories.Thereare This chapterexplainsindetailtheLoom-machine onwhichweavingisdone.Basedthe Summary: .....Circularlooms 3.1.2.5.1. ....ModernLooms 3.1.2.5. ....Waterjet Looms 3.1.2.4. These loomsaredesignedtoproducecircularfabrics.Intheseshuttles Innovative approachtoweavinghasbeenintroducedthroughseveraldesign The jetofwaterisusedtocarrytheweftyarnacrossshedloom. material. machine. Thecircularloomsatpresentareprimarilyusedforbagging are usedthatcirculatethepickinshed,whichisformedaround machine. modifications ofsheddingandpickingcomponentsthetraditionalweaving readily absorbwatersuchasnylon,polyester, etc. disadvantage isthattheyarerestrictedtoproducethefabricsdonot These loomsarefasterandoperateatlessnoiselevellikeairjetlooms.Butthe itisbecausethefabricwetduetowater. Fig 3.6:Waterjet Loom-Observethelustreonfabric, 12 WOVEN TEXTILES 13 Unit - 1 Assignment - 1 Unit are perpendicular to one another is called ______. are perpendicular to one another weaving ______. absorb water. their appearance, are commonly referred to as ______Textiles. their appearance, are commonly ______. ______Age. are to be used called Weaving 7. is done on a machine called ______. Weaving 8. which filling yarn is wound. ______is a device that contains a bobbin on 4. and ______. The two types of textile fibers are ______5. The examples of Manmade Fibers are ______and ______. 6.width wise yarn (weft/ filling) which Interlacing of lengthwise yarn (warp) with the 1. a fabric is ______. textile industry for making basic raw material used by the The 2. ______. made of interlacing fibers is called Any material 3. specific purpose is called ______. finished piece of fabric used for a A 9. breakage of yarn during ______looms types are faster and also reduced the 10. Rapiers, used to insert the weft, are of two types -______and 11. restricted to produce the fabrics that do not readily ______looms are 12. at present are primarily used for ______material. The circular looms 13. for characteristics other than used for industrial purposes, and chosen Textiles 14. is called the The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other 15. weaving of textiles on the loom is believed to have begun in The 1. The shuttles are available in different shapes depending on the type of loom they 2.yarn system into vertical columns and horizontal rows of loops Interlooping of one 3. are twisted or spun together to form a Yarn Thestrands of fibers 4. fibers are a form of vegetable fibers Wool I. Blanks Fill in the II. True or False or II. True WOVEN TEXTILES I. SelecttheCorrectAnswerfromoptionsgivenbelow(MCQs): III. .Adelicate,hair portions ofthetissuesaplantoranimalothersubstancethat 5. Theloomsusejet ofairtopropeltheweftyarnacrossshedloom 4. .The first loomwaspoweredby: 3. ______isaNaturalFiber 2. .Inearlyage,weavingonloomswasahouseholdactivitypracticed mainlyby: 1. 0 Clothmaybeusedsynonymouslywithfabricbutoftenreferstoafinishedpieceof 10. .LininginAutomobilesisanexampleofBondedFabric 9. TheProjectilesareloomsclassifiedonthebasisofweftinsertiontechnique 8. .ThebasicrawmaterialusedbythetextileindustryformakingafabricisYarn. 7. ShuttleloomsweredevelopedtoovercometheproblemsofShuttle-less looms 6. .PlaitingandBasketsmakingwasapreliminarysteptoweaving cloth 5. fabric usedforaspecificpurpose .Fabric b. Yarn a. are verysmallindiameterrelationtoitslength arecalled .GrahamBell d. Wright Brothers c. ThomasAlvaEdison b. EdmundCartwright a. .Airjet d. Rapier c. Projectile b. Waterjet a. .GlassFiber d. Jute c. Polyester b. Nylon a. .Children c. Women b. Men a. 14 WOVEN TEXTILES 15 d. Cord c. Fiber a. Sweater b. Towels c. Handkerchief d. Bed sheet a. Knitting b. Bonding c. Weaving d. Tufting are perpendicular to one another is called are perpendicular to one another c. Warper d. Charkha a. Spindle b. Loom 6. of knitted fabric is The example 7. (weft/ filling) which Interlacing of lengthwise yarn (warp) with the width wise yarn 8. fabric is usually woven on The 7.8. Projectile Looms 9. Rapier Looms 10. Airjet Looms Circular Looms 4.5. Looms 6. Manmade Fibers Natural Fibers 1.2. Fiber 3. Yarn Fabric IV. IV. Define the Following: WOVEN TEXTILES . AnswerthefollowingQuestions: V. .WhatareManmadeFibers?Classifyandgiveexamples DrawadiagramoftheClassificationLooms 6. WhatareNaturalFibers?Classifyandgiveexamples 5. Write inbriefabout"MechanizationandIndustrialization” 4. WhatarethevariousclassificationsofTextiles? Explainwithexamples 3. DifferentiatebetweenShuttleandShuttle-lessLooms 2. 1. 0 Write ashortnoteonTechnical Textiles. WhatisFabric? Explainindetail. 10. Looms? WhatareRapier 9. WhatareAirjetLooms? 8. 7. 16 WOVEN TEXTILES Unit - 2 Weaving Technology Weaving WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 4:

..INTRODUCTION 4.1. All theprocessesthroughwhichwarpyarnpassesarecollectivelycalledas But theyarnsthatareusedaswarphavetorunfrombackfrontofloomand The fillingyarnsorpicksarenotsubjectedtothesametypeofstressesaswarp As taughtintheearlierUnits,awovenfabricismadeoftwoyarnsystems, comprehension ofthestressesweaving. fundamental understandingofthepriorinfluencesyarnformingandasound this oneaspectofwovenfabricproduction.Successfulwarppreparationdependson Preparatory processes strains oftheweavingprocess. hence shouldpassthroughaseriesofoperations,topreparethemwithstandthe are takenstraightoffthespinningprocessandusedforpicking,afterdyeing,ifrequired. yarns andthusareeasilypreparedfortheweavingprocess.Mostoftenfilling perpendicular tooneanotherinweavingprocess. width-wise yarnsand Fig 4.1:FlowchartforYarn PreparatoryProcess Drawing inand Creeling Warping warp Denting Sizing . Anentiresegmentoftextileindustryhasdevelopedaround Warp orlengthwiseyarns,whichareinterlacedalmost Yarn fromSpinningUnit Winding Loom Preparatory 18 (If Shuttleloom) Pirning Weft filling Weaving or WOVEN TEXTILES . winding 19 Fig 4.2: Winding Machine Fig 4.2: Winding Fig 4.3a: Yarn being unwound Fig 4.3a: Yarn from Creel Fig 4.3b: Creel 4.2.1.1. - Winding Yarns are repackaged as large cones, so that they can be further used for weaving are repackaged as large cones, so that they can Yarns During this process, some spun yarns may be imparted more twist or combined During this process, some spun 4.2.1.2. Creeling Yarn packages are placed on a large metallic frame known as creel (Fig 4.3a and packages Yarn process. This re-packaging process is termed as process. This re-packaging process with other single yarns into double and ply yarns. The defects in the yarn, like with other single yarns into double thick places and thin place are also removed. This leads to increase in overall thick places and thin place are strength of the yarn and causes less yarn breakage during weaving strength of the yarn and causes less 4.3b). These creels are equipped with yarn tensioning devices so that constant 4.3b). These creels are equipped with yarn tensioning devices 4.2.1. Preparatory for Warp 4.2. PROCESS FOR WEAVING PREPARATORY WOVEN TEXTILES ends arethenwoundontothewarpbeam.Warping canbedonein twoways: representing hundredsofends(multipleendpackage)iscalledWarping. The warping performance. tension variationandyarnbreakagemonitoringsysteminordertoincreasethe beam. Themoderndaycreelsareequippedwithautomaticcontrol,centralized yarn tensionismaintainedinalltheyarnsastheyarebeingwoundontowarp ....Sizing 4.2.1.4. )Indirectwarping- b) )Directwarping- a) The processofconvertingyarnfromsingleendpackagetoanevensheet ....Warping 4.2.1.3. creel islimited(Fig.:4.5) employed whenfancycolouredpatternsofwarpareneedorthecapacity onto awarpbeaminseparateoperation.Thismethodofwarpingis onto anintermediatedrumcalledPattern Drumandarethentransferred 4.4) used whensinglecolourorlesscomplicatedpatternsaretobewoven(Fig.: from theyarnpackagesontowarpbeam.Thismethodispredominantly Fg44 ietWrig Fig4.5: SectionalWarping Fig4.4:DirectWarping Machine Fig 4.6:SectionalWarping Machine Theendsoftheyarnarewrappedinsingleoperation The yarnsfromtheyarnpackagearewoundinbands 20 WOVEN TEXTILES . Tying-In . . 21 "Denting Order" "Drafting Order" Fig 4.7: Drawing-In4.7: Fig Denting 4.8: Fig known as is known as The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shaft is The order in which the warp threads The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the dents of the reed The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the dents of when mass production of same fabric is to be done then simply each end of new when mass production of same fabric is to be done then simply beam is tied to corresponding end of old beam. This is called modern, shuttle-less looms, the cones are directly put on to the stand for picking. modern, shuttle-less looms, the cones are directly put on to the stand Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn and thus the of the yarn and breakage is essential to reduce the warp yarn Sizing of On the weaving machine, the warp yarns are subjected to several types of actions, to several types of actions, machine, the warp yarns are subjected On the weaving The sizing paste is applied on the warp yarn with the warp sizing machine. After the warp sizing machine. After is applied on the warp yarn with The sizing paste This is the process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the eyes of This is the process of drawing each 4.2.1.5. Drawing-in and Denting The manual process of Drawing-in and Denting is time consuming and hence The manual process of Drawing-in and Denting is time consuming a) Pirning the weft. In more This process is need only for the looms that use Shuttle to carry 2 2 production stops on the weaving machine. weaving machine. stops on the production like abrasion at various loom parts, inter yarn friction, etc. With sizing, the friction, etc. With various loom parts, inter yarn like abrasion at strength - abrasion resistance - of the yarn improves and hairiness of the yarn also and hairiness of the yarn also resistance - of the yarn improves strength - abrasion decreases. weaving process, the fabric is washed to remove the size paste (Desizing) the fabric is washed to remove weaving process, the heald, (Fig.:4.7) as indicated in the draft and then through the dents of the the heald, (Fig.:4.7) as indicated reed (Fig.:4.8). 4.2.2. Preparatory for weft WOVEN TEXTILES the yarnpassesbeforeitistakenonloomforweaving. introduces thestudenttoWeaving PreparatoryProcessi.e. all theprocessesthroughwhich typical orderandvaryfordifferenttypesofyarnsortheendfabrictobeproduced.Thischapter taken onloom.ThesearecalledWeaving PreparatoryProcesses. Theseprocessesaredoneina strains duringtheWeaving Process.Hence,itpassesthrougha series ofprocessesbeforeitis A fabricismadeupoftwosetsyarn-Warp andWeft. Theseyarnshavetowithstandvarious Summary: 22 WOVEN TEXTILES Reed . But for . From here Back Lease at the center loom as per the design 2 ; it is the point where 3 Heald Eyes and under the 4 with Back Rest (No. 2, 3) "Cloth Fell" 1 5 Weaving Mechanism Weaving 9 - Reel of the cloth Temple 10 - - Breast beam 11 12 - Emery roller Rod Tension 13 - 14 - Cloth Roller 6 Heald Shafts (No. 6, 7) 7 Heald Wires 23 and passes over the Back Lease Rod 1 (No. 4) 1 - Weavers beam 1 - Weavers bars of back rest Two 2,3 - 4 - Back lease rod 5 - Front lease rod 6 - Back heald 7 - Front hoeld 8 - Reed 8 13 9 12 14 10 and the remaining half pass under lease rod 1 and over the lease rod 2. and the remaining half pass under lease rod 1 and over the lease 11 Fig 5.1: Line Diagram of Passage of Yarn (Ends) on the Loom of Yarn Fig 5.1: Line Diagram of Passage Weaver's Beam (No. 1) Weaver's which is like a flat wire comb. The point 9 is the

leaves the half the warp ends pass over the Rod 2 (No. 5) This divides the warp sheet into two parts which avoids entanglement and facilitates This divides the warp sheet into two parts which avoids entanglement straightening of warp ends. The lease rods also help in forming an even shed. After this an even shed. After straightening of warp ends. The lease rods also help in forming the warp yarns are drawn through the pass through the through which the warp ends are passed. The warp ends next requirement. The Heald Shafts contain (No.8) the warp and weft become a cloth, as the reed beats up the last inserted weft up to this the warp and weft become a cloth, as the reed beats up the last The passage of warp through the loom is as shown in the diagram (Fig 5.1). The warp The passage of warp through the loom is as shown in the diagram

The Fabric weaving is accomplished on sophisticated, high speed, precision on sophisticated, high speed, weaving is accomplished The Fabric understanding the complicated operations of a weaving, the machine can be broken down into weaving, the machine can be broken complicated operations of a understanding the simple functions, related to the process of cloth formation with particular reference to those formation with particular reference related to the process of cloth simple functions, functions which have the greatest influence upon the structure and the appearance of fabrics. functions which have the greatest

5.1. ON THE LOOM OF YARN PASSAGE Chapter- 5: 5: Chapter- WOVEN TEXTILES ..IMPORTANT PARTS OFALOOM 5.2. ...BreastBeam 5.2.5. 5.2.4. Back Rest BackRest 5.2.4. ...Warp Beam 5.2.3. ...Reed 5.2.2. ...HealdShaft 5.2.1. (No.13) and goespartlyaroundthe to thewidthofwarpsheet.Theclothisthenpassedover point. Theclothisthenheldateachsideby 2 2 2 2 2 2 The breastbeamorthe frontrestisbetweenthetemplesandcloth rollerat Back Rest orBackBeamisabovetheweaver'sbeam.Itactsasaguidetowarp Back Rest This isalsoknownasthe It isametalliccombwhichmadeupofnumberwires.Thegapbetweenthese This partisrelatedtotheSheddingMechanism.Itcanbemadeupofwoodor the frontofloomand itactsasaguidefortheclothbeingwoundonto thecloth tension sheet comingfromtheweaver'beamandalso as asensorforsensingthewarp beam anditisfixedatthebackofloom. wires isknownas of healdshaftsare: shafts usedinweavingdependsonthe The endsofwarpsheetpassthroughthesehealdwires.numberHeald metal. Itcarriesnumberofhealdwires,atthecenterwhichiseye. tobewoundontothe It determinesthefabricdensity, i.e. thenumberofendsperinch It keepsthewarpendsinitspositionandavoidsentanglement. It pushesthelastinsertedpicktofellofcloth. It determinestheorderofliftingandloweringwarpendsforapick It helpsinidentifyingthebrokenwarpthread. It helpsinshedformation fabric. Dent Cloth Roller (No.14) Roller Cloth Emery Roller (No.12) Emery Roller . Thereedperformsthefollowingfunctions: Weaver's Beam 24 Temple (No.10) Repeat Repeat . Thewarpsheetiswoundontothis . of theweave.Themainfunctions , thenoverthe . Thisholdstheclothfellout Breast Beam(No.11) Tension Rod

WOVEN TEXTILES 25 are as follows: Fig 5.3: Picking with a Shuttle Fig 5.2: Shedding of Warp Sheet Fig 5.2: Shedding of Warp a tunnel, through which the weft is passed (Fig.:5.2). a tunnel, through which the weft shed (Fig.:5.3). roller. The front rest along with the back rest keeps the warp sheet and cloth in sheet and cloth keeps the warp the back rest rest along with The front roller. the horizontal position and maintains proper tension to facilitate weaving tension to maintains proper position and the horizontal roller is at the front of the loom roller is at the front It is also called as cloth roller. The woven cloth is wound on to this roller. This cloth is wound on to this roller. The woven as cloth roller. It is also called The separation of the warp threads into upper and lower layers forming a Shed, or The separation of the warp threads The insertion of the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, through the The insertion of the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, 5.2.6. Cloth Beam The weaving process consists of three basic operations which form a continuous cycle which form a continuous consists of three basic operations The weaving process 5.3.1. - Shedding 5.3.2. Picking - whether in the simplest hand-loom or in the most complex automatic loom. These whether in the simplest hand-loom Primary Motions of Weaving 5.3. CLOTH PRODUCTION IN WOVEN BASIC OPERATIONS WOVEN TEXTILES ...TheClothTake-Up - 5.3.5. ...Warp Let-Off- 5.3.4. ...Beating-up- 5.3.3. The othermechanismsare asfollows: This determinesthespeedofclothwithdrawal andtherefore,thedensityof This determinestherateatwhichwarpisfed forwardandthetensionof These Auxiliarymotionsareasfollows: In additiontothethreeprincipaloperations,severalancillarymotionsare The pickingandthebeating-upoperationsarefixednomatterwhattypeoffabric The carryingforwardofthelastinsertedpickorweft,tofellcloth spacing oftheweftpicks(i.e.Picksperinch) in thecloth tension mayappeardifferentandpossess characteristics in theclothandtwofabricsofidenticaldesignbut wovenwithvaryingdegreesof warp yarn.Thetensionislargelyresponsiblefor theconfigurationofwarpends motions canaltertheclothappearanceconsiderably. with thesafetyandcontinuityofweavingoperations,butinfluencesome required forcontrolpurpose.Someofthesearemechanicaldevicesconnected decided. Thedifferentsheddingmotionsaredescribedfurtherinthechapter. heart ofweavingasitisherethatthenatureinterlacingorweave, is beingproduced,butthesheddingmotionvariableandcanbedescribedas (Fig.:5.4). Fig 5.4:BeatingwiththeReed 26 WOVEN TEXTILES

27 reed if a shuttle becomes trapped between the top and bottom shed lines and the and bottom shed lines and the becomes trapped between the top reed if a shuttle reed is failing to complete its traverse. reed is failing to thus avoiding defects in the fabric. thus avoiding defects cross each other. If they do cross each other it may cause warp yarns to break, If they do cross each other it may cause cross each other. which ultimately results in fabric defects. which ultimately results in fabric reed. which the heald shafts are raised or lowered which the heald shafts are raised It is measured as ends per inch and picks per inch warp density, reeds of different counts are used. reeds of different counts are used. warp density, two, three or more ends can be passed. So for example, if you are using a Reedtwo, three or more ends can be passed. So for example, if you Count of 32s, it means there are 16 dents in one inch, so with 2 ends per dent, the Count of 32s, it means there are 16 dents in one inch, so with 2 ends EPI would be 32 (16x2=32). Reeds are available which help in of different counts making fine or thick cloth or changing the number of ends per dent can help to making fine or thick cloth or changing the number of ends per achieve open or close fabric. This stops the loom to prevent excessive damage to the warp threads, cloth, and to the warp threads, cloth, and to prevent excessive damage This stops the loom This will stop the loom almost immediately if a warp end or a weft thread breaks, end or a weft thread breaks, loom almost immediately if a warp This will stop the Yarns must remain completely parallel from warp beam to cloth beam and not from warp beam to cloth beam must remain completely parallel Yarns The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shafts and in the The order in which the warp threads The combination of heald shafts raised or lowered at a time, and the sequence in The combination of heald shafts The fabric density is defined as the number of ends and picks in a unit of a fabric. The fabric density is defined as the This is defined as the number of ends in one inch of the fabric. To get the required This is defined as the number of ends in one inch of the fabric. To The Reed inches. Count is defined as number of dents in two Through each dent, 5.3.6. motion - Warp-Protector 5.3.7. Motion - and Weft-Stop Warp The weave structure in the fabric is determined by two factors. The weave structure in the fabric 5.5.1. Density Fabric 5.5.2. Ends per inch (EPI) 5.5.3. Reed Count 2 2 5.5. TERMINOLOGIES WEAVING IMPORTANT 5.4. WEAVING WOVEN TEXTILES ..SHEDDINGMECHANISM 5.6. ...DobbySheddingMechanism- 5.6.2. ...Tappet SheddingMechanism- 5.6.1. following threeways: above theweft,ortokeepitbelowweftduringpicking.Thiscanbeachievedin wire, andraisingorloweringthiswiredependentonwhetheritisrequiredtolifttheend produce agiveninterlacing,isachievedbythreadingeachendthroughaneyeofheald As you learnt that the shedding,duringwhichthewarpthreadsaremanipulatedto As youlearntthatthe ...Total warp ends 5.5.6. ...Selvedge 5.5.5. ...Picksperinch 5.5.4. and areoftencapableof controlling upto24healds. but thissystemoffersconsiderablygreaterscope forproducingfiguredeffects Here aswell,thehealdwireareattachedto shaftlikefortappetshedding, simplicity offerssomeadvantage. production ofstandardclothswherechanges of structureareinfrequent,and these reasonstappetprincipleofsheddingis employed mainlyforhighspeed heald shaftsarerequired.Butthisimposeslimitation onlengthofdesign.For used tocontrolthesheddingwhere,duesimplicityofinterlacing;onlyfew hence riseorfalltogetherwiththemovementofshaft.Thetappetsystemis In thisthehealdwiresarenotoperatedsinglybutattachedtoframeand For example,iftheEPIoffabricis30and60inchwidetobewoven, This isdefinedasthetotalnumberofendsacrosswidthfabric.a The selvedgeofthefabricisself-finished edgesofthefabric. This isdefinedasthenumberofpicksinoneinchfabric.Thedensity then theTotal Warp Endswillbeequalto1800(30x60) product oftheEndsperinchfabricandWidth ofthefabrictobewoven. the picksperinchishigherasfabricnowbeingwoundataslowerspeed. speed thepicksarebeinglaidfurtherapart,whereasiftakeupisslowthen then Picksperinchisless.Thissobecauseasthefabricwoundatgreater picks canbevariedbychangingthetake-upspeed.Ifspeedishigh 28 WOVEN TEXTILES 29 Fig 5.5: Cloth woven with Dobby Mechanism Fig 5.5: Fig 5.6: Cloth woven with Jacquard Mechanism Fig 5.6: Cloth woven with These looms allow weaving of complex patterns. They are used for weaving These looms allow weaving of of Dobby Shedding like brocades, damask, designs which are beyond the scope of more than 24 different order of interlacing. etc. i.e. the designs which consists In these looms there are no heald shafts. Each heald wire is controlled separately In these looms there are no heald shafts. Each heald wire is controlled work in different by the Jacquard mechanism and hence thousands of ends can fashion and repeat upon similar number of picks 5.6.3. Shedding Jacquard Mechanism -

Summary: is a complex process comprising of series of operations. But the process The actual Weaving weaving mechanism is explained in this chapter by breaking it down into simple functions. With into simple functions. With weaving mechanism is explained in this chapter by breaking it down help of a line diagram all the parts of the looms are explained. The machine is broken down into help of a line diagram all the parts of the looms are explained. The simple functions, related to the process of cloth formation. Particular reference to those Particular simple functions, related to the process of cloth formation. functions is given which have the greatest influence upon the structure and the appearance of functions is given which have the greatest influence upon the structure fabrics. The chapter explains the basic operations for woven cloth production. It will also fabrics. The chapter explains the basic operations for woven introduce the students to all the weaving terminologies that will be used while actual making of introduce the students to all the weaving terminologies that will a fabric. WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 6: ..INTRODUCTION 6.1. ..METHODOFFABRIC REPRESENTATION 6.2. The unitofawovenfabricisthepointintersectionwarpandweft.This In thisstructure,therearemorethanoneseriesofendsandpickssomewhichwill Compound Structure: When theEndsandPickintersectwithoneanotheratrightanglearerespectively Simple Structure: The wovenstructuresaredividedintotwomajorcategories: Woven Fabrics aremadeupofvertical(Lengthwise)yarnscalled is oftwotypes: ornamentation purpose.Theymayalsonotbeparalleltoeachother. be responsibleforperformanceandsomewouldemployedpurelythe contribute toperformance,utilityandaestheticappearance. structures thereisonlyoneseriesofendsandpickstheyequally parallel toeachother, thenthestructureiscalledasSimpleStructure.Inthese known individuallyasEndsandtheweftthreadsare different waysandeachclassofstructureformsthe (width wise)yarnscalled nelcn ye""Interlacingtype"b" Interlacing type"a" Warp overweft Fig 6.1:Condition1:Warp overWeft Weft Condition 2:Warp underWeft . Thesethreadsareinterlacedwithoneanotherinmany 30 Warp underweft Design Weave Desiging . Thewarpthreadsarealso Picks orFilling Warp andhorizontal . WOVEN TEXTILES Repeat of or one design 31 Fig 6.4: Design on Design Paper / Point Paper Paper / Point Fig 6.4: Design on Design Paper Fig 6.5: Design Paper / Point Paper /Squared Paper Paper / Point Fig 6.5: Design Paper End lowered under the pick to obtain the intersection pick to obtain the under the End lowered End raised over the Pick to obtain the intersection to obtain the intersection over the Pick End raised . picks as a cloth requires two ends and two simplest design that can make a A 2 2 the weave border), unit of a design (shown in red As the Fig: 6.2 represents one repeat of a design. to Therefore, usually it is sufficient are identical to the first one. the adjoining units one Repeat. pattern of the design as represent the interlacing below weft2, and warp2 going below weft1 and above weft2. This is called as an below weft2, and warp2 going very laborious to prepare and hence are generally not Interlacing Diagram. They are designs have to be made. employed especially when large (Red outline) A number of different intersections combine to make a unit of a intersections combine to make A number of different The design depiction as shown in the Fig 6.3 represents warp 1 going over weft 1 and The design depiction as shown Fig 6.2: One unit of a Design Fig 6.3: Interlacing Diagram Fig 6.2: One unit of a Design WOVEN TEXTILES results. An incomplete repeat or faulty repeat will result in faulty construction of a fabric. results. Anincompleterepeat orfaultyrepeatwillresultinconstruction ofafabric. the sidesofadesign,aswhenpatternrepeats tomakeacloth,anunbrokenweave extend over8endsandpicks.Itisnecessaryfor marksandblankstojoincorrectlyatall right angle.(Fig:6.7).Ifarepeatunitextendsover 8endsandpicks,everyportionmust unequal butacompleterepeatmustbeinrectangular formasthethreadsinterlaceat indicated onthedesignpaper. Theendsandpickinarepeatingunitmay beequalor Any weaverepeatsonadefinitenumberofends andpicks.Generally, onerepeatunitis The commonmethodusedfordesigndepictionis form loosefloatswhichdonotbecomewovenintothefabric(Fig6.3). space andeveryhorizontalspace.Otherwisethethreadswillnotinterlacemerely repeat ofadesigntheremustbeatleastonemarkandblankineveryvertical pick. To interlace,thethreadsmustcrosseachotherandthereforeinonecomplete interlacing, andthateachsquareisthepointofintersectionawarpendweft general representationofthedesignbutisaspecifiedplanorderthread Fig 6.4).WhichevermarksareuseditmustberememberedthatPoint Paper isnota simultaneously inonedesigntoindicatedifferentcolourorthicknessofyarn.(Example of markcanbeused(X,O, etc.)andsometimesseveraltypesofmarksareused this squareindicates"Warp overweft"andablankindicated"Warp underweft".Anykind end, therefore,eachsquaregridrepresentsintersectionofanendandapick.Amarkin lines. Eachverticalspacerepresentswarpendandeachhorizontalweft The standardtextiledesignpaperisruledingroupsof8x8,thesebeingseparatedbybold Paper) asshowninFig6.5.Thisoffersaneasiermethodofrepresentingtheinterlacing. Fig 6.6:Wrong Design-Warp 1andWarp 5are formingloosefloats Fig 6.7:Faulty Unit-one completerepeat Repeat must beinarectangularform 32 Design Paper (Point Paper, Squared WOVEN TEXTILES 33 Fig 6.9: Design, Draft and Peg Plan Fig 6.9: Design, Draft and Peg Fig: 6.8aFig: 6.8b Fig: Same weave but the starting position is different Same weave but the indicates the number of Heald Shafts to be used to produce a given design and the indicates the number of Heald Shafts to be used to produce a given However, a weave can start from different positions, as this does not affect the appearance the appearance does not affect positions, as this from different a weave can start However, A Draft There are various methods for indicating the draft but the most common and convenient There are various methods for indicating the draft but the most The principle of drafting a pattern is that all the ends working in different orders require The principle of drafting a pattern is that all the ends working in of the fabric, although one repeat may appear to look different. (Fig 6.8a and 6.8b) (Fig 6.8a to look different. repeat may appear although one of the fabric, order in which the warp ends are to be threaded through the heald eyes of the healds. order in which the warp ends are to be threaded through the heald method is the use of design paper. In this method the draft is drawn exactly over the design method is the use of design paper. and the horizontal spaces represent the healds and the vertical space indicates each and the horizontal spaces represent the healds and the vertical corresponding warp end (Fig.: 6.9). separate heald shafts. This means that as a heald shaft is an entity, therefore all the ends separate heald shafts. This means that as a heald shaft is an entity, passing through a given heald shaft will work alike. The converse of this rule may not passing through a given heald shaft will work alike. The converse always be true as occasionally for convenience and better performance the ends that are always be true as occasionally for convenience and better performance that number of picks in working alike are passed through different healds. It may be noted a repeat is of no consequence for a drafting pattern, this will be considered in Lifting Plan. a repeat is of no consequence for a drafting pattern, this will be considered 6.3. CONSTRUCTION OF DRAFTS AND PEG PLANS WOVEN TEXTILES METHODOFCONSTRUCTION 6.4. are loweredandonfourthpickheald2israised1lowered. pick heald2israisedand1lowered;onthirdagainhealds diagram indicatedthatonfirstpickthehealds1israisedand2arelowered;second further showswhichhealdshaftswillberaisedandloweredonsuccessivepicks.Thusthe how thefirsthealdwillbeoperated;numbered2,secondandsoon.Theplan spaces isequaltothepicksindesign.Theverticalspace1pegplanindicates correspond withthenumberedhealdshaftsindraftandnumberofhorizontal lowered oneachsuccessiveinsertionofpick. The pegplanisdrawnalongsidethedesign.numberedverticalspacesof The LiftingPlanorthePeg Plan Fig 6.10:StepbystepMethod ofConstructingDraftand Peg Planfromthe givenDesign definestheselectionofhealdshaftstoberaisedor 34 WOVEN TEXTILES 35 All the ends in a design which work alike are drawn through the same heald shaft the same heald are drawn through work alike in a design which All the ends The ends which are working differently from each other are drawn on different other are drawn on different are working differently from each The ends which in a repeat of a design is equal to of heald shafts required Therefore, the number The first end is indicated on first heald, The first end is indicated working like first end are also indicated in First Then all the other ends that are The working of first heald is copied from the design to the 1st vertical space of the The working of first heald is copied The next end that works differently from the first end, is indicated on second The next end that works differently Then the ends which work like this end are also indicated on the second heald (Fig Then the ends which work like this The working of second heald is then copied from the design to the 2nd vertical The working of second heald is The process is continued till all the ends in the design have been allocated heald The process is continued till all The final draft and lifting plan for the given design is indicated at Fig 6.10J and The final draft and lifting plan healds. the threads in the design that are working differently from each other. from each other. design that are working differently the threads in the Heald (Fig 6.10B). lifting plan (Fig 6.10C) heald 6.10D). space of the lifting plan (Fig 6.10E). shafts. Fig 6.10K respectively. Draft and Peg Plan- are very closely related to one another and are interdependent. So it Draft and Peg is very important to possess a thorough knowledge of these. If any of the 2 components is very important to possess a thorough knowledge of these. If are known then the third can be built. . Example, if one knows the draft and the peg plan are known then the third can be built. . Example, if one knows the then a Design can be made. If design and peg plan are known then a draft can be then a Design can be made. If design and peg plan are known constructed. the design or the lifting plan for which they are arranged, ex Herringbone or reversed the design or the lifting plan for which they are arranged, ex Herringbone very important to understand, while some are formed as a natural outcome of following very important to understand, while some are formed as a natural draft .The common drafting systems are as follows: The draft is constructed by following rule: is constructed The draft Steps for constructing the Draft and Peg Plan for a Design: the Draft and Peg Steps for constructing The three factors upon which the construction of any woven fabric depends - Design, The three factors upon which the construction of any woven Various systems of drafting are used for weaving of fabrics. Some are common and hence systems of drafting are used for weaving of fabrics. Some are common and hence Various 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 6.5. DRAFT AND PEG PLAN BETWEEN DESIGN, RELATION 6.6. TYPES OF DRAFTING WOVEN TEXTILES ...SkipDraft- 6.6.2. ...StraightDraft- 6.6.1. This isusedforweaveswhichareverydense.Normally, theseweavesrequirevery This isthemostcommonandsimplestsystemofdrafting.Inthisdrafting, drawn on4or6shafts(Fig. 6.11) then minimumrequired.Example,Plainweave requiresonly2shafts,butcanbe crowding ofmailsontheshaft,Skipdraftisused whereinmorehealdsareused less healdshaftsbuttoreducefrictionandrubbing betweentheendsandtoavoid straight draft,theliftingplanisalwayssameasdesign(Fig6.11) shafts requiredisequaltonumberofendsintherepeat.For thedesignswith the end of the repeat is reached. Therefore,inthissystem thenumberofheald the endofrepeatisreached. successive endsintherepeatofadesignaredrawnuponhealdsuntil Fig 6.11:StraightDraft Fig 6.11:SkipDraft 36 WOVEN TEXTILES 37 Fig 6.12: Point Draft Fig 6.12: Point Fig 6.13: Sateen Draft waved or diamond weave. Its advantage is that large effects can be produced on waved or diamond weave. Its advantage that required for straight draft (Fig. 6.12) half the number of heald shafts than adjacent warps and overcrowding. But in sateen draft this is achieved by adjacent warps and overcrowding. But in sateen draft this staggering the placement of ends. (Fig.6.13) These are employed for weaves which are symmetrical about the center, example which are symmetrical about the center, These are employed for weaves The purpose of this draft is the same as skip draft i.e. to reduce friction between The purpose of this draft is the same as skip draft i.e. to reduce 6.6.3. Draft- Point 6.6.4. Draft - Sateen WOVEN TEXTILES plan. the endofchapterwillbeabletoconstruct designsandshowitsdraftingpatternpeg for weavingonloom.Itexplainsthemethodoffabric representationonpaper. Thestudentsat process followedbyadesigner/weaverfordesigning ofafabriconpaperbeforeitisactualtaken of structurethatisproducedcalledaDesign.Thischapterexplainstothestudentsindetail fabric isdesignedbythewarpandweftinterlacingwitheachotherindifferentways.Eachclass The Weave Designing chapter will introduce the student to the actual designing of a fabric. The The Weave Designingchapterwillintroducethestudenttoactualdesigningofafabric. Summary: ..DENTING 6.7. The warpsheetisspreadoutacrosswidthoftheloom.desireddensity design asshowninFig.6.14. emphasis certain design features. TheDentingpatternisusuallyindicatedbelow the emphasis certaindesignfeatures. This canberegularorsameacrossthewidthoffabricsometimesirregularto reed. Themostfrequentusedorderofdentingisone,two,threeorfourendsperdent. denting. Orderofdentingisdrawingtheendsthroughsplitbetweentwowiresin ends (Endsperinch)isachievedbychoosingtherightreedanddifferentordersof Fig 6.14:TwowaysofrepresentingDentingPattern 38 WOVEN TEXTILES 39 Unit - 2 Assignment Unit places. called ______. warping. from the yarn packages onto the warp beam. from the yarn packages onto the production stops on the weaving machine. production stops on the weaving ______Structures. as ______. ______and ______. of a fabric. Shedding, ______Shedding and ______Shedding. Shedding, ______Shedding and ______tension of the warp yarn. ______, ______and ______. 1. _____ places and _____ removes the faults in the yarn, like Process The Winding 2. is to a multiple end package yarn from single end package The process of converting 3. ______two ways of warping process are ______warping and The 4. in single operation warping, the ends of the yarn are wrapped In ______5. yarn and thus of the warp yarn is essential to ______breakage of the Sizing 6.are called woven structures with more than one series of warp and weft The 7. of the reed is known The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the dents 8. part is related to the Shedding Mechanism. ______9. The three basic operations in woven cloth production are ______, 10. ______The ______is defined as the number of ends and picks in a unit 11. edges of the fabric are called ______. The self-finished 12. Shedding Mechanism is capable of controlling up to _____ healds. Dobby 13. ______The Shedding Mechanism can be achieved in three ways 14. is fed forward and the ______determines the rate at which the warp 15. three factors upon which the construction of any woven fabric depends The are I. Fill in the Blanks WOVEN TEXTILES I. SelecttheCorrectAnswerfromoptions givenbelow(MCQs): III. II. True or False .Theendswhichareworkingdifferently fromeachotheraredrawnon______3. .The Sizing Processisdoneafter 2. The "Pirning" processisneedin 1. 0 PickingcanbedonebeforeShedding. 10. .Amarkinthissquare ofaDesignPaper indicates"Warp overweft". 9. .Draftingdefines theselectionofhealdshaftstoberaisedorloweredoneach 8. .StraightDraftisemployedforweaveswhicharesymmetricalaboutthecenter, 7. Countisdefinedasnumberofdentsintwoinches. Reed 6. .IndirectWarping ProcesswouldbeemployedtomakewarpforStripedShirtFabric. 5. .Alltheendsinadesignwhichworkalikearedrawnthroughdifferenthealdshafts. 4. Weft yarnsalsorequiretheSizingProcess. 3. .After windingtheoverallstrengthofyarnincreaseswhichcausesless 2. Yarn Singeingisacompulsoryprocessforfabricmanufacturing. 1. .Similar d. Common c. Same b. Different a. healds. .Creeling d. Warping c. Drawing-In b. Winding a. .Airjet d. Projectile c. Rapier b. Handloom a. successive insertionofpick. example wavedordiamondweave. breakage duringweaving. 40 WOVEN TEXTILES 41 a. Resizing b. Sizing c. Degumming d. Desizing c. Density meter d. Comber called a. Heald Wire b. Reed the nature of the interlacing or the weave is decided. the nature of the interlacing or the a. Picking b. Beating c. Shedding d. Let-Off Warp a. varied Number of Heald Shafts are b. More warp beams are used c. Let Off Speed is increased d. Reeds of different counts are used. b. Sateen Draft c. Draft Pointed d. Straight Draft number of ends in the repeat is a. Skip Draft a. Design Paper b. Graph Paper 4.after weaving is called the fabric the size paste from of removing The process 5. is the fabric density, made up of wires,which also determines The metallic comb 6. as it is here that ______Motion can be described as the heart of weaving The 7. get the required warp density To 8. number of heald shafts required is equal to The Drafting system in which the 9. The common method used for design depiction is WOVEN TEXTILES . Answer thefollowingQuestions: V. IV. Define the Following terms: .WhatarethevariousDraftingSystems? Explainwithdiagrams. 7. 6. The weaver is using a reed of 32s Reed Counttoweavean8"widefabric.Ifheputs4 Theweaverisusingareedof32sReed 6. .WhatisthetotalnumberofEndsina45"widefabric,ifEPI ofthefabricis96? 5. .DescribethestepsinconstructionofDraftandPeg PlanforagivenDesign. 4. .Write ashortnote on"BasicOperationsinWoven ClothProduction”. 3. .ExplaintheYarn PreparatoryProcesswiththehelpofaFlowDiagram. 2. .Yarn Preparatory 9. HealdShaft 8. Beating 7. Picking 6. Shedding 5. StraightDraft 4. Design,Draftand Peg Plan 3. Count Reed 2. IndirectWarping 1. .Explainthepassageofyarnonloomwithdiagram. 1. EPIandPPI 10. 10. a large metallic frame on which yarn packages are placed isknownas alargemetallicframeonwhichyarnpackagesareplaced 10. fabric? ends perdentthenwhatistheEPIoffabric and thetotalnumberofendsin .Package Holder d. Creel c. IronFrame b. Yarn Stand a. .BrownPaper d. DrawingPaper c. 42 WOVEN TEXTILES 43 11. Shaft and Reed. Enumerate the uses of Heald 9. note on "Shedding Mechanism”. a short Write 10. What is denting? 8. Design. for the following plan Peg Draft and Draw WOVEN TEXTILES Fabric Structure Unit -3 WOVEN TEXTILES 45 Figure: 7.1 Introduction to Weave Structures Introduction . It can be wearable, useable as any functional product in an interior or . It can be wearable, useable as any functional product in an interior

etc.

Fabric (Fig 7.1) Fabric bonding which may be used in production of any end use product such as garments. bonding which may be used in 2 dimensional or 3 When a material is constructed using any textile fibre into pliable, it is called a dimensional structures which may be drape-able, spreadable and exterior, as home furnishing, or may be used as an aesthetic piece of art. A fabric is a as home furnishing, or may be used as an aesthetic piece of art. A fabric is a exterior, flexible woven or non woven material consisting of natural or artificial fibers flexible woven or non woven material consisting of natural or artificial known as thread or yarn. A Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibers of cotton, silk, wool, flax, or is produced by spinning raw fibers of cotton, silk, wool, flax, thread or yarn. A Yarn together known as felted fabrics. The term fabric and cloth is used in textile trades such together known as felted fabrics. The term fabric and cloth is used be used synonymously as tailoring and dressmaking as synonyms for textile. A Cloth may other materials to produce continuous long strands. with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of product used for a specific purpose e.g., with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of product used for (Image-2) any fashionable garment, bed spread, bed cover, table cloth, curtains, durries and rugs table cloth, curtains, durries and rugs any fashionable garment, bed spread, bed cover, Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, braiding or refers to any material made through weaving, Fabric A Textile fabric is formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres fabric is formed by weaving, A Textile

7.1 FABRIC STRUCTURE 7.1 FABRIC Chapter - 7: - 7: Chapter EXTILES PlainPlain weave is extensivelyextensively usedused in makingmaking the rurugsgs aandnd other hhandand woven T DDhurryhurry structurestructure,, ononee such exampexamplele of a rug structurestructure is given aboveaboovev

77.7.22 INTRODUCTION TTOO WEAWEAVESAVES OVEN

W TheThe weavesweaves areare representedrepresented graphically oonn a graphgraph paperpaper as explained iinn ththehe earlierearlliei r units. ThThee typetype of weave usedused in a ffabricabric ddependsepends upon tthehe dedesiredsired ffactorsactors ssuchuch tetextures,extures, luluster,sterr, sstrength,trength, ppattern,attern, cocolours,lours, look, feel,feel, eeffectsffects aandnd ccostost of tthehe production, bebeforefore any rerecommendationccommendation of tthehe wweaveseaves is dodone.ne.

ThTThereere are tthreehree bbasicasic weweaves,aves, ttheyhey areare:: 2 PlPlainain weaveweave,, 2 TTwillwill weaveweave,, anandd 2 SSateenateen anandd sstaintain weavweavee

All ootherther wweaveseaves areare ththee permutationspermutations andand combinationscoombinations of thesethese weavesweaves onlyonly iirirrespectiverespecctive of wwhetherhether ttheyhey aarere pproducedroduced oonn hahandloom,ndloom, ppowerower loloom,om, oon a sisimplempm le ttreadlereadle lloom,oom, oonn a multimulti ttreadlereadle frframeame loloom,om, oonn a lloomoom uusingsing ddobbyobby oorr oonn a loloomom aattachedttached wiwithth a Jacquard wwhereinherein aann eelaboratelaborate dedesignsign wiwithth thtthee apapplicationplication of oonene orr mumultipleultl iplee weweavesaaves aarere eemployedmployed ((Image-3).Image-3).

4646 WOVEN TEXTILES 47 woven using the Jacquard mechanism An example of simple yet elaborate design An example of simple yet elaborate Summary: to the fabric structures. The type of weave used in a fabric This chapter introduces the student depends upon the desired factors such texture, luster, strength, pattern, colour, look, feel, effects look, feel, effects strength, pattern, colour, such texture, luster, depends upon the desired factors and cost of the production, before any recommendation of the weaves is done. This chapter in any recommendation of the weaves is done. This chapter in and cost of the production, before brief gave an idea to the students about the various fabric structures that they are going to study about the various fabric structures that they are going to study brief gave an idea to the students in the forthcoming chapters. The three basic structures are Plain, Twill and Sateen Weave. All three basic structures are Plain, Twill and Sateen Weave. in the forthcoming chapters. The other weaves are the usually a permutations and combinations of these weaves. other weaves are the usually a permutations Chapter- 8: Introduction to Plain Weave

8.1 PLAIN WEAVE

2 Characteristics of Plain weave

It is the most economical and easy to produce weave. In a plain weave, each warp yarn passes alternatively over one weft and then under the second weft yarn. They require only two heald shafts or harnesses because the weave repeats every two ends and two picks. When one heald shaft is raised the other is lowered, and then the sequence is reversed for the next pick. Please refer figure 4 and 5.

INTERLACMENTINTET RLLACA MEM NT OF WARPWARRP & WEFTWEW FT

EXTILES WEFTEEFT T OVEN W

WARPWARP

Figure 4 Figure 5

Figure 6 Figure 7

48 WOVEN TEXTILES

wherein calico weave calico weave figure-9 weave or also termed as also termed as weave or plain 49 Figure - 9 . In figure 6 the fabrics depicts two colors warp series and weft fabrics depicts two colors warp . In figure 6 the . It also has the maximum possible frequency of interlacing, thereby . It also has the maximum possible frequency of interlacing, Illustration shows Warp up (over weft) and weft up ( over the warp) the up (over weft) and weft up ( over the warp) Illustration shows Warp on a graph paper. manner in which it can be represented pattern of interlacing, the pattern actually repeating itself on every ends and picks pattern of interlacing, the pattern actually repeating itself on (figure-8) producing a fabric of firm structure. The yarns in this weave are not easily displaced and producing a fabric of firm structure. The yarns in this weave are are more resistant to slipping. both naturalistic and semi naturalistic form of drawing illustrate the interlacements of both naturalistic and semi naturalistic form of drawing illustrate warp and weft shown with the selvedge interlacements in a fabric construction. warp and weft shown with the selvedge interlacements in a fabric the construction of textile fabrics is the fabrics is the of textile the construction and 7) (refer figure 6 series in 1:1 order. The simplest and most elementary combination of two series of threads employed in in employed in in series of threads of two elementary combination and most The simplest Plain weave is the most widely used of all fabric structures and has the simplest possible Plain weave is the most widely used The interlacement of warp and weft can also be closely examined in the The interlacement of warp and weft can also be closely examined

WOVEN TEXTILES naturalistic way. the selvedgeatonesideofconstructioninnaturalandsemi Illustration aboveshowstheinterlacementofwarpandweftalongwith Figure -9 50 WOVEN TEXTILES . 51 as derivatives of plain weave as derivatives Figure - 10 2 x 1 warp rib, the rib effect is produced in weft direction and under two or more than two picks. Effect of the warp rib can be seen and under two or more than prominently from both the sides of the fabric. prominently from both the sides The Warp rib weaves are constructed in which each end passes alternately over rib weaves are constructed in which each end passes alternately The Warp produced from the simple plain weave by extending it either horizontally, vertically or it either horizontally, simple plain weave by extending produced from the both, they are termed both, they are termed terms of the ratios of the warp and weft inserted during the course of weaving. during the course of of the warp and weft inserted terms of the ratios Depending upon it's ratio between warp and weft selected they may be called regular selected they may be called it's ratio between warp and weft Depending upon weave depending upon the ratios of warp and weft is selected for the construction of the is selected for the construction upon the ratios of warp and weft weave depending weave. warp or weft rib or irregular warp or weft rib, similarly regular matt or irregular matt similarly regular matt or irregular or irregular warp or weft rib, warp or weft rib Plain weave has the simplest form of interlacing and many variations of weaves could be and many variations of weaves the simplest form of interlacing Plain weave has The following are the derivatives of the plain weave which could be further modified in which could be further modified the derivatives of the plain weave The following are 8.2.1 Rib Warp 8.2 WEAVE: OF PLAIN DERIVATIVES WOVEN TEXTILES .. Weft Rib 8.2.2 The Weft ribweavesareconstructedinwhicheachendpassesalternatelyover When thetwopicksareinsertedbetweenformationsofashed(withsinglewarp result wouldbe2xweftrib.Iftheliftingisdoneby3endsand4 and undertwoormorethanends.Whenthe2endsareliftedalternately & 10A. always inweftdirectwhichcanbeseenveryprominently. formed. Thewarpribcanbeidentifiedbythefactthatformationofis 4 picksareinsertedinthesameshedthen3xwarpriboris up ) then2xwarpribisproduced(referthe up ) Figure -10A 52 can beseenveryprominently. of theribisalwaysinwarpdirectwhich identified bythefactthatformation weft ribrespectively. Theweftribcanbe resultant weaveswouldbe3xand4 figure 10A effect iswarpdirection 2 x1weftrib,therib Figure -11 ) .Likewise,if3picksor Please seefigure-10 WOVEN TEXTILES 53 Figure - 11A Please see figure-11 & 11 A. Please see figure-11 Figure - 12A During the weaving, the warp rib or weft rib effect can be obtained by using one be obtained by rib effect can warp rib or weft weaving, the During the Matt weave is also the most thick pick or one coarse end instead of two or more picks in a shed or two ends in a shed or two or more picks end instead of or one coarse thick pick taken up in single eye of the drafting in the heald shaft eye of the drafting in the heald taken up in single during weaving as one respectively. popular weave as one of the derivatives of plain weave in They are the textile industry. made by extending a plain 8.2.3 or Basket weave: Matt or Hopsack WOVEN TEXTILES weaving thePlainWeave Swatch. simple modificationsin the PlainWeave. At the endofthechapterstudentwillbereadyfor This chapterwillalsointroducethestudenttoDerivatives ofPlainWeave. Thesecanbemadeby chapter thestudentswilllearnwaysofrepresenting thePlainweaveonDesignpaper. varying the construction. Different patterns can also be achieved by using coloured yarn. Inthis varying theconstruction.Differentpatternscan alsobeachievedbyusingcolouredyarn. produce. Differentfabricsaremadewithplain weave,justbychangingtheyarncountand This chapterintroducesthePlainWeave Design.Theplainweaveismosteconomicaland easyto Summary: weaves canbeconstructed. effects thatareknownasirregularMattweave.Similarly3x3,4x4ormore yarns inanirregularmannerwarpdirectionorweftwillproducethe as produced. Thesimplestandmostcommonlyusedweaveis produced. working asonesingleendsandtwoormorepicksinashedthenMattweaveis weave structurebothwarpwayandweftdirection.Ifthetwoormoreends Basket or Hopsack Figure -12B weaveasdepictedin 54 figure-12 A&B 2 xMatt . Groupingofthe alsoknown WOVEN TEXTILES gure-17 Figure - 13

Z Twill the number, the number, or Un-balanced . S Twill or 55 Right Hand Twill twill either warp or the weft floats Introduction to Twill Weaves Introduction Balanced twill (figure 16) Left Hand Twill and is called In a size and distribution of the warp or the weft floats and whereas in are similar, (figure 17) may be very prominent. is the smallest twill weave repeats. The twill lines is the smallest twill weave repeats. Figure-14: Right Hand Twill Figure-15: Left Hand Twill and is called figure 14 figure-13

Twill weaves can easily be identified by its general characteristic Twill weaves can easily be identified warp or weft direction, or in equal or quantities on both sides of the warp or weft direction, or in equal with its series of more or less pronounced diagonal lines in either with its series of more or less pronounced cloth. Twill with 3 ends and 3 picks with lifting of 1 /2 twill or 2/1 cloth. Twill with 3 ends and 3 picks twill can be made continuously either from left to right in / direction as can be made continuously either shown in and a twill which runs from right to left in \ direction as shown in and a twill which runs from right figure 15

fabric. Twill weaves can easily be identified by its general characteristic of more or less pronounced characteristic of more or easily be identified by its general Twill weaves can is the Denim The most commonly known twill either warp or weft direction. diagonal lines in These weaves can be again sub-divided as follows. Figure-16 Fi 9.2 UN-BALANCED TWILLS BALANCED TWILLS AND

9.1 OF TWILL WEAVES CHARACTERISTIC Chapter- 9 : 9 Chapter- WOVEN TEXTILES interlacement foreasyidentification. weaves. A3endstwillwith2/1liftingisrepresentedin Broken twills,Pointed twill,Wavy orZigzagtwill,HerringboneandFancy twill known as Regular twills,SteepTwill,FlatandElongated twills,Combinationof known asRegular turned onthebackside.Thereareotherclassoftwillweavesderivedfrombasictwills Direction ofthelinesononesideisoppositetothatseenotherwhenfabric 18 B&C) be constructed,whereinwarpwillmoreprominentonthefaceoffabric thereby makingaweftfloatfabriconthefaceside.Likewiseothertwilllike2/1&3/1can twill) whichindicateseverypickhastopassunderonewarpandgoovertwosoon, warp andweft,diagonallinesareformed.Thistypeoftwillisknownas1up2down(1/ right ofthefloatprecedingpick.Inthisprogressiveorderinterlacement weft thread,thethirdoveretc.i.e.,eachfloatisonewarpthreadto thread isoverthefirstweftthread,andthensecondwarpraised instance, the3-ends½twillrunningtorightasshownin required directionoftwilltheprecedingwarpuporweftup.For direction thatmaybelifteduprespectivelytotherightorleftdependingupon thread maymoveupwardoroutwardinonesometimesmorethanwarpweft The basicprincipleoftheconstructiontwillweaveisthatfloateachwarporweft . Prominenceofthetwilllinescanbeseenonbothsidesfabric. 56 Fig 18- figure-18 A with itsnaturalistic , thefirstwarp (figures- WOVEN TEXTILES Figure - 19 B, ½ Twill Figure - 18-1 57

Figure - 19 A, 2/2 Twill Regular simplest form of twill which can be constructed with equal or unequal twill is the diagonal lines of warp and weft arranged alternately. When the diagonal lines are equal, arranged alternately. diagonal lines of warp and weft that is, if both ends and picks are lifted under the same number of warp and weft threads that is, if both ends and picks are uniformly, warp and weft will definitely be in equal quantities on both the face and back warp and weft will definitely be in equal quantities uniformly, of the fabric, but if the lines are unequal, warp and weft may be either in equal or in of the fabric, but if the lines are unequal quantities on the face and back of the fabric. They may be either termed as warp unequal quantities on the face and faced or a weft-faced twill fabric depending upon the predominance of the warp or weft faced or a weft-faced twill fabric depending upon the predominance floats on the face of the woven fabric. 9.3 REGULAR TWILLS 9.3 REGULAR WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 10: 10.1 CONSTRUCTION AND CHARACTERISTICS OFSATEEN CONSTRUCTIONANDCHARACTERISTICS /SATIN WEAVE 10.1 the endofchapterstudentwillbereadyforweavingSateenandSatinWeave swatch. to theserules.ItwillteachthemmakevariousregularandirregularstructuresofSateen.At paper. TheproductionofSateenrequirescertainrules.chapterwillintroducethestudents Sateen Weave Design.ItwillteachthestudentswaysofrepresentingsameonDesign The Sateenfabrichasacharacteristiclustre,sheenonthesurface.Thischapterintroduces of selection)dependsuponvariousfactorstogetaregularsateenandsatin. fabric. Itisconstructedbychoosingamovenumber. Selectionofmovenumber(intervals . Amovenumbercannotbehalfofthearepeatsize 4. . Amovenumbershouldnotbedivisiblebytheofendsandpicksinarepeat. 3. . Amovenumbercannotbeallottedasonemove. 2. Amovenumberselectedshouldnotbelessoneofarepeatsize. 1. Principles ofconstructionsateenandsatinaredependentuponthefollowingrules: A sateenweaveispredominantlyaweftfacedweave,whereassatinwarpdominant BC Introduction toSateenandSatin 7 endSateenat2and5 intervals Figure -20 58 A WOVEN TEXTILES the In figure 21 is given with 3 and 7 7 End Satin with 5 Move Figure - 21 weave is produced from 7-end weave is produced . The interval of selection for re- . The interval of 10 ends satin the interval of selection is 4 and in the interval of selection is 4 and . These sateen or satin weaves are . These sateen 7 End Satin with 4 Move Satin weave 59 In Figure-B 10 End Satin with 7 Move by re-arrangement. Exactly reverse of this is when sateen Exactly reverse of this is when by re-arrangement. 7 End Satin with 3 Move with 2, 3 4 and 5 moves and 'satin' or 'sateen' weaves 'satin' or 'sateen' (Figure-20A) it is 2. Similarly, sateen weaves of higher number of ends per repeat can be sateen weaves of higher number of ends per repeat it is 2. Similarly, 7 ends satin 10 End Satin with 3 Move 7 End Satin with 2 Move Figure-20B a 7-end weft faced satin (sateen) Figure-20B a 7-end rearranged and converted into a sateen weave (weft face satin) (weft face into a sateen weave and converted rearranged weaves known as weaves known characterized by an even and smooth surface of either warp or weft, resulting from a either warp or weft, resulting an even and smooth surface of characterized by perfectly regular distribution of intersection of those threads. distribution of intersection of those perfectly regular weft faced twill is converted into warp faced and is called is converted into arrangement may be either of two complementary numbers whose sum equals the whole arrangement may be either of two for 7-end sateen the interval of but which have no common measure. Therefore, number, Figure-20C selection might be 5 and 2 or 4 and 3. selection might be 5 and 2 or 4 constructed by-arranging ordinary twills. constructed by-arranging ordinary construction, we will get satin weave which is a warp dominant weave. construction, we will get satin weave examples of moves. A Sateen weave when re-arranged can be made into twill, likewise a twill weave can be weave can be likewise a twill be made into twill, can weave when re-arranged A Sateen The simplest system of rearranging ordinary continuous twill weaves produces a class of twill weaves produces of rearranging ordinary continuous The simplest system In the If we reverse the selection in sateen as given above by following the principles of same If we reverse the selection in sateen

1. WOVEN TEXTILES different typesoftwilllines.Itwillalsogiveeffects. Weave Swatch.Thetwillweavecanbesub-dividedinmany ways. Eachclasswillproduce ways ofrepresentingthesameonDesignpaperandgetthemreadyforweavingTwill This chapterintroducestheTwillWeave Designanditsvariations. Itwillteachthestudents Summary: 60 WOVEN TEXTILES 61 Assignment known as ……………….. as……………………..weave. a) Unbiased twill b) Biased twill c) Unbalanced twill d) Balanced twill a) is more dominant Warp b) Both warp and weft is equal horizontal direction. Create interesting woven textures by using these as warp and weft by using these as warp Create interesting woven textures horizontal direction. as taught to you. Please refer the woven structure in different order. by interlacing them Take any colour paper/newspaper with or without image cut them in vertical and image cut them in vertical paper/newspaper with or without any colour Take 1. is also vertical series in a textile weaving is termed as …………………………and All Q.6. How to differentiate between sateen and satin? and Q.5. sateen between How to identify a twill weave? differentiate to How Q.6. Q.1. Define the term fabric? Q.2. What are the basic weaves? Q.3. with an appropriate diagram? what is mean by interlacement, illustrate Q.4. Classify the derivatives of plain weave? 2. weave with 2 threads in warp and 2 threads in weft is also known Plain 3. fabric can be recognized by its…………………………..lines Twill 4. with warp dominant structure. ……………………..is a fabric 5. A fabric formed by…………………………of………………..and………………….. 1. 2/2 twill is an example of a 2. Sateen is a weave where 1. 2. questions Answer the following 3. Up the blank. Fill 4. Choose the correct answer from the given options. WOVEN TEXTILES 5. Left handtwillisalsoknownas Left 5. 2xMatweaveisa 4. Inwarpribtheformationisin 3. )Downwardtwill d) Upward twill c) "S"twill b) "Z"twill a) Balancedtwill d) aderivativesofplainweave. c) aderivativesoftwillweave b) derivativesofsatinweave a a) Noneoftheabove d) Weft direction c) Bothwarpandweftdirection b) Warp direction a) )Itproducesdiagonallines d) Weft ismoredominant c) 62 EXERCISES

Exercise 1:

Take any two contrasting colour sketch pen, fill the vertical segments with one colour and horizontal segments with the other colour in the following weave and examine the interlacements of the two elements warp and weft. W OVEN T EXTILES t eat ea e ep e R e One RepeatOn Plain WWeaveeave

63 Exercise 2:

Take any two contrasting colour sketch pen, fill the vertical segments with one colour and horizontal segments with the other colour in the following weave and examine the interlacements of the two elements warp and weft. EXTILES T OVEN W t ea e ep R

One Repeat R

WarpWarp RibRib WWeaveeaave

64 WOVEN TEXTILES Weft Rib Weave Weft

65 One Repeat One Exercise 3: Exercise one colour and with the vertical segments sketch pen, fill colour any two contrasting Take interlacements of the two elements warp and weft. interlacements of horizontal segments with the other colour in the following weave and examine the in the following weave and with the other colour horizontal segments WOVEN TEXTILES interlacements ofthetwoelementswarpandweft. horizontal segmentswiththeothercolourinfollowingweaveandexamine Take anytwocontrastingcoloursketchpen,filltheverticalsegmentswithoneand Exercise 4:

One Repeat 66 Mat Weave WOVEN TEXTILES 3 Ends Twill Weave

67 One Repeat One Exercise 5: Exercise one colour and with the vertical segments sketch pen, fill colour any two contrasting Take interlacements of the two elements warp and weft. interlacements of horizontal segments with the other colour in the following weave and examine the in the following weave and with the other colour horizontal segments WOVEN TEXTILES interlacements ofthetwoelementswarpandweft. horizontal segmentswiththeothercolourinfollowingweaveandexamine Take anytwocontrastingcoloursketchpen,filltheverticalsegmentswithoneand Exercise 6: 68 8 EndSatinWeave WOVEN TEXTILES Unit - 4 The Commercial Aspect WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 11: 11.1 INTRODUCTION Textile industryproducesalargevarietyofproducts,rangingfromapparel,home Textile industryinIndiaisprovidingtooneofthemostbasicneedspeopleand aid ofdigitization,electronicsandcomputerization. upgraded intermsoftechnology. Ithasstartedusingallhigh endmachinerieswiththe friendly productstotheworldmarket.Millssectorsandotherorganizedsectorhaveall industry hasadoptedvariousmeasuresandtechniquestoprovidehighqualityeco- markets. Textile industryconsistsofbothhandloomsandPowerlooms. TheHandloom as shownin linens, beachcurtainsandfloorcoveringsareallavailableacrossIndianmarket designer's garments,andhomefashionproductslikebedlinens,kitchenbath furnishings, upholsteries,carpettofloorcoverings. contributes forabout1/3rdofgrossexportsearnings. the industry. Itaccountsforabout 12-13%ofproducingvalueaddedarticlesand textile industryisjustnexttoagricultureintermsofemploymentgenerationandsize with higherandsubstantialamountofvalueadditionateverylevelproduction.Indian rich intermsofrawmaterialandhencehastheabilitytodeliverfinishedproducts Indiais therefore holdsimportancewithsustainedgrowthforimprovingqualityoflife. Image 22-A An OverviewofTextileIndustry . Textile productsaresoldindomesticaswelloverseas Image -22A 70 Products likehighfashionfabrics,

WOVEN TEXTILES India 71 Image - 22 B India has 3rd India is the fourth Second largest cotton and cellulosic fibres producing country Second largest cotton and cellulosic India is the second Cotton Textiles: Silk Textiles: Silk Textiles: Woollen Textiles: Woollen Man-Made Textile: Jute and Coir based Textiles: in the world. largest producer of silk and contributes largest producer of silk and contributes silk about 18% to the total world raw production. largest sheep population in the world, largest sheep population in the having 6.15 crores sheep, producing 45 million kg of raw wool, and accounting for 3.1% of total world wool production. greasy wool producers. India ranks 6th amongst clean wool producer countries and 9th amongst largest county in synthetic fibres/yarns globally. is the largest producer and second of textile largest exporter of the jute goods. Image 23 indicates various segments industries spread across all over India. napkins, and hand gloves are shown in the images above and below images above are shown in the and hand gloves napkins, Examples of Home Fashion products like curtains, cushion covers, table cloth, aprons, table cloth, cushion covers, like curtains, products of Home Fashion Examples Indian textile industry can be divided into following segments: Indian textile industry can be divided 2 2 2 2 2 11.2 SEGMENTS OF INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY TEXTILE INDIAN OF 11.2 SEGMENTS WOVEN TEXTILES 11.4 BASIC STRUCTURE OF INDIA'S TEXTILE INDUSTRY 11.3 HANDLOOM AND POWER LOOM TEXTILE INDUSTRY: Textile industryinIndiacomprises ofmostlysmall-scale,non-integrated spinning, The statesofKashmirandKarnatakaareknown fortheirmulberrysilk.Indiaistheonly In thedepartmentofWoollen textiles,Woollen weavesarenolesssubtle.TheKashmiri The Surat"Tanchoi", basedonatechniqueofsatinweavingwiththeextraweftfloatsthat In theworldofhandlooms,thereareMadraschecksfromTamil Nadu,Ikatsfrom The Handloomindustrymainlyexportsfabrics,bedlinen,tabletoiletandkitchen The powerloomindustryhasgrownupfromhandloomsectortraditionallywith weaving, finishing,andapparel-making units. buddavasi andchitkiinAndhraPradesh. India iscommonlyknownaspatolainGujarat, bandhainOrissa,pagdubandhu, yellow andraresheenbecomemorelustrouswith everywash.Theikattechniquein Assam isthehomeoferiandmugasilk.Muga durableanditsnaturaltonesofgolden (tussore), eriandmuga,nowgainingimmense popularityintheU.S.A. and Europe. country intheworldproducingallfourcommercially knownsilks-mulberry, tasser unbelievably lightandwarm. weaver isknowntheworldoverforhisPashmina andShahtooshshawls.The shawlsare craftsmen havealsoborrowedthejamdanitechnique. The Baluchartechniqueofplainwovenfabricbrocadedwithuntwistedsilkthread, traditional weaves,thereishardlyanystyleofweavingthatVaranasi cannotreproduce. are absorbedinthefabricitselfhasbeenreproducedVaranasi. Besidesitsown which beganinMurshidabaddistrictofWest Bengal,hastakenrootinVaranasi. Their Phulkari fromPunjab. and Kanchipuram,JacquardsfromUttarPradesh,DaccaiWest Bengal,and BrocadesfromBanaras Andhra andOrissa,TieDyefromGujaratRajasthan; provide highqualityandeco-friendlyproductstotheworldmarket. coverings, etc.TheHandloomindustryhasadoptedvariousmeasuresandtechniquesto linen, towels,curtains,cushionsandpads,tapestriesupholstery's,carpetsfloor decentralized sectoris62%ofthetotalfabricproductionincountry. required forgarmentsectorexportaswellthedomesticmarket.Theshareof Decentralized powerloomsectorisconsistentlymeetingouttheneedoffabric largely comprisesofverytinyunitswithamajorityloomholdingsintherange1to8. 4.3 lakhunitswithanaverageholdingofalittleover4loomsperunit.Thus,thesector the clusters.The19.44lakhloomsindecentralizedpowerloomsectorarespreadover inherent technicalknowhowpassedonfromforefatherandisbeingcontinuedinmanyof 72 WOVEN TEXTILES 73 used for weaving and knitting. knitted fabrics. India's weaving and knitting sector remains highly fragmented, knitted fabrics. India's weaving This sector consists of about 3.9 million small-scale, and labour-intensive. handlooms, 380,000 "powerloom" enterprises that operate about 1.7 million handlooms, 380,000 "powerloom" looms, and just 137,000 looms in the various composite mills. looms, and just 137,000 looms in washing and other cloth preparations prior to the manufacture of fabric. Overall, washing and other cloth preparations about 2,500 processors are operating in India, including about 2,000 independent about 2,500 processors are operating with spinning, weaving, or knitting units. units and 220 units that are integrated domestic manufacturers, manufacturer exporters, and fabricators. Composite Mills are relatively large-scale industry and are sometime called are sometime industry and large-scale Mills are relatively Composite Integrated Composite Mills: Composite Integrated Spinning is the process of converting cotton or manmade fibre into yarn to be Spinning is the process of converting Spinning unit: Weaving and Knitting unit: Weaving yarns into woven or and knitting converts cotton, manmade, or blended Weaving Finishing unit: includes dyeing, printing, finishing is actually a wet processing unit which Fabric Apparel Manufacturing unit: classified as Apparel clothing is produced by about 75,000 small-scale units vertically integrated Mills and will have most advance technology base for advance technology base for Mills and will have most vertically integrated the goods. manufacturing starts from kind of mills the process normally In this garmenting level. In India, weaving, finishing and upto spinning, dyeing, however, these types of mills now account for about only 3 percent of output in the only 3 percent of output in the of mills now account for about these types however, in India, most owned 276 composite mills are now operating About textile sector. by the public sector. The well-known examples are Arvind Mills in Ahmedabad, The well-known examples are by the public sector. Bombay Dyeing in Mumbai, Raymonds,Bombay Dyeing etc. 2 2 2 2 2 Summary: generation and size of Indian textile industry is just next to agriculture in terms of employment the industry. In this chapter the student is given an overview of the Textile Industry in India. In this chapter the student is given an overview of the Textile the industry. The Indian Textile industry is divided into various segments depending on its raw material industry is divided into various segments depending on its raw material The Indian Textile production capacity. loom sector depending on the It is also divided in to Handloom and Power production capacity. type of fabric being produced and its requirement. This industry is further divided based upon type of fabric being produced and its requirement. This industry the end product that it supplies. The student in this chapter is made aware of these various the end product that it supplies. The student in this chapter sectors and segments of the textile industry. WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 12: It isatightly-wovencotton typefabricwithanall-overprint,usuallya small floralpatternona Calico Fabric famous. (Seeimage56) upholstery, draperies,handbags andeveningwear. Banarasi brocadedsarisinIndiaarevery A heavyjacquardfabricwithanall-overraised patternorfloraldesign.Appropriateforsaris, Brocaded Fabric It isusedasdressmaterials. It isaplainweavetightlywovenfabricthatusually madefrom100%cottonorablend. Broadcloth knotted surfaceandisoftenusedinsweaterlooks,vestscoats.(Seeimage68) It isawovenfabricwithsmallcurlsorloopsthatcreatenubbysurface.Thehaslooped, Boucle Fabric a highstrengthanddurability, itisoftenusedforupholstery, trousersandworkclothes It isacordedcotton-likefabricwithraisedridgesinthelengthwisedirection.Sincehas Bedford Cord unique. (Seeimage64) dyes solutiongetspenetratedandtheinterestingcrackseffectsareproducedwhichisquite help inresistingthedyespenetration,howeverprocesswaxcracksthroughwhichsome or printedwiththemixofbeewaxandparaffinwhichactslikeresistthendyed.The A fabricdesigntechniqueofresistdyeingorprintinginwhichdesiredareasarecovered,painted Batik Fabric name. Itwillalsoenumerateitsenduse. commercially available. Itwillvisuallyhelpthestudentinidentificationoffabricbymarket commercially available. invented orbytheirfibrecomponents.Thischapterislikeaglossaryofvariousfabricsthatare depending onmethodsbywhichtheyaremanufactured,theplacewhereactuallymade/ construction dependingontheendusageoffabric.Theyareidentifiedbydifferentnames The fabricismadeusingvariousmaterialandtechniques.Theyareproducedwithdifferent Identification ofFabricswith 74 Commercial Names WOVEN TEXTILES 75 contrasting background color. Common end use includes dresses, aprons, and quilts. (See Image quilts. (See Image aprons, and use includes dresses, Common end color. background contrasting Cambric is a fine thin white linen fabric, woven using plain weave thin white linen fabric, woven using Cambric is a fine 55) Cambric Fabric Canvas Fabric cotton fabric. durable, closely plain weave woven Canvas is a strong, Chambray is a plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but Chambray is a plain woven fabric Chambray is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns. (See a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns. (See is most commonly cotton. It incorporates Lightweight, extremely sheer and airy fabric, containing highly twisted fibers. It is Suitable for airy fabric, containing highly twisted fibers. It is Suitable for Lightweight, extremely sheer and image 62) Chiffon Fabric It is a fabric, usually made of cotton or a cotton blend, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. or a cotton blend, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. It is a fabric, usually made of cotton full pants, loose tops or dresses Corduroy The ''wale'' indicates the number of cords in one inch. Suitable for jackets, pants and skirts. (See of cords in one inch. Suitable for jackets, pants and skirts. (See The ''wale'' indicates the number Cotton is a white vegetable fibre grown in warmer climates in many parts of the world. Cotton grown in warmer climates in many parts of the world. Cotton Cotton is a white vegetable fibre image 70) Cotton Fabric has been used to produce many types of fabric for hundreds of years. Cotton fabric feels good types of fabric for hundreds of years. Cotton fabric feels good has been used to produce many against the skin regardless of the temperature or the humidity and is therefore in great demand temperature or the humidity and is therefore in great demand against the skin regardless of the by the consumer. May be made into solid plain colour, strip or check cotton fabrics (See image 52, May be made into solid plain colour, by the consumer. Crepe synthetics and blends-that It is used to describe all kinds of fabrics--wool, cotton, silk, rayon, 72 & 73) A glossy jacquard-type fabric, the patterns are flat and reversible. Unlike jacquards, the fabric is A glossy jacquard-type fabric, the patterns are flat and reversible. It is suitable for draperies, curtains, bed and table linens. all one color. have a crinkle, crimped or grained surface. Damask Fabric It is a twill weave cotton fabric made from different coloured yarns (usually indigo) in the warp It is a twill weave cotton fabric made from different coloured yarns Denim and white weft. Due to the twill construction, one colour predominates on the fabric surface. It is and white weft. Due to the twill construction, one colour predominates WOVEN TEXTILES hairy skin.(Seeimage61) An artificialfurfabricmade intheweavingorknittinghavinglooksof a bird'sfurorananimal Fur Fabric Typically usedinbabycloth,shirtsandsleepwear. (Seeimage69) It isusuallya100%cottonfabricthathasbeen brushedononeorbothsidesforsoftness. Flannel image 60) in combinationwithcertainmanufacturedfibers, wherethefibersarelockedtogether. (See wool fibresbondeachother. Itisanon-wovenfabricmadefromwool,hair, orfur, and sometimes It isanaturalpropertyofwoolfibres.Inpresencemoisture,pressureandheatthescale Felted Fabric make largedesigns.Usedindressmaterialsandsaris.(Seeimage48&49) Fabric wovenonmainlyplaingroundwithanadditionalyarnsusedinwarporweftdirectionto Extra Warp andExtraWeft DesignFabric (See image53) is reeledtogetherandhenceayarnwithslubsonthesurfaceproducedwhichquiteirregular. It isacrispfabricmadefromsilkyarnwhichreeledwastecocoons.Morethanonecocoon Dupion Silk (See image51) handed twillandpiecedyed. Drill isStrong,medium-toheavyweight,warp-faced,twill-weavefabric.Itusuallya2/1left- Drill (See image42&43,Panipat Doubleclothseeimage73) binder threads.Thewovenpatternsineachlayeroffabriccanbesimilarorcompletelydifferent. the other. Intheweavingprocess,twoormorelayersofwovenfabricareheldtogetherusing A fabricconstruction,inwhichtwolayeredarewovenontheloomatsametime,onetopof Double ClothandMultiLayeredFabric image 48) characterized bysmallfigures,usuallygeometric,thatarewovenintothefabricstructure.(See A Fabric madewithanadditionalattachmenttoaloomwherein adecorativeweave, Dobby Fabric (See image34) suitable fortrousers,jacketsandskirts.Thedenimsareusuallyprewasheddifferenteffects. 76 WOVEN TEXTILES 77 Gabardine is common and is the most gabardine Wool weave that is wrinkle resistant. It is a worsted twill Gauze Fabric curtains. suitable for blouses, dresses and fabric usually cotton or silk. It is open-weave A sheer, considered all season fabric for suits. considered all season A drape able woven fabric created from highly twisted yarns creating a pebbly texture. It is semi- yarns creating a pebbly texture. fabric created from highly twisted A drape able woven (See image 35) Georgette Fabric sheer and suitable for blouses, full pants and flowing dresses. sheer and suitable for blouses, full It is a medium weight with a plain weave in plaid or check pattern. End use includes dresses, weave in plaid or check pattern. End use includes dresses, It is a medium weight with a plain Gingham shirts, and curtains. (See image 65) shirts, and curtains. (See image Herringbone in which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular A variation of the twill weaves construction intervals, producing a zigzag effect with clear cut line at the reversal point. (See image 26) intervals, producing a zigzag effect Honeycomb a structure just like the one created by honey bees are It is one of the weaves wherein constructed. The fabric woven by this weave is used for towelling as it absorbs moistures. (See this weave is used for towelling as it absorbs moistures. (See constructed. The fabric woven by image 25) Check Fabric Hound's Tooth weave effects. Mainly used for A fabric woven in 2:2 ratios of warp and weft using colour and ladies jacketing, long coat and man' wear. (See image-24) ladies jacketing, long coat and man' wear. Ikat Fabric yarns, prior to weaving. The It is a fabric, usually hand woven which has been tie-dyed in the pattern can range from simple little dots to single ikat (warp yarn is tie-dyed) to intricate double pattern can range from simple little dots to single ikat (warp yarn Ikat (where both the warp and weft yarn is tie-dyed). (See image 33) Ikat (where both the warp and weft yarn is tie-dyed). (See image Jacquard Fabric fabrics made using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides Woven versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of almost any type or complexity can be made. Examples are Brocade and Damask fabrics. (See almost any type or complexity can be made. Examples are Brocade image 54, 56, 57 & Panipat Jacquard Double cloth see image 73) image 54, 56, 57 & Panipat WOVEN TEXTILES towel arethebestexample ofcutpilefabric.(Seeimage29) form isknownaspilefabric. Theyareproducedbothmanuallyandbymachine. Velvet andTerry A fabricwovenwiththeformationprojectingsurface withyarnseitherintheLoopformandcut Pile Fabric weave variationoftheplainconstruction. Thefabricisusedprimarilyinshirting. A fine,soft,lightweightwovencottonorblended withmanufacturedfibersina2x1basket Oxford Fabric rayon, nylon,orpolyester. (Seeimage32) A crisp,sheer, lightweightplainweavefabric,withamediumtohighyarncount,madeofsilk, Organza Fabric A stiffened,sheer, lightweightplainweavefabric,usuallycottonorpolyester. (Seeimage40) Organdie Fabric knotting method.(Seeimage31) It referstoanyopen-constructionfabricwhichitisusuallycreatedbyweaving,knitting, Net Fabric garments forpreliminaryfit.(Seeimage45) cotton sheetingfabric.Initsunfinishedform,itiscommonlyusedinfashiondesigntomaketrial An inexpensive,mediumweight,plainweave,lowcount(lessthan160threadspersquareinch) Muslin Fabric dress materials.(Seeimage41) A satinbasedcrepefabric,lightweightandverysmooth,havinggooddrapingqualityusedfor Moss Crepe with goodqualitycottonisusedinmen'sandwomen'sshirtsdresses.(Seeimage67) India andoncehadingreatdemandwasusedaslungis.Nowadays,Madraschecksaremade pattern. Truemadraschecksbleedswhenwashed.Thistypeoffabricisusuallyexportedfrom It islightweightplainorsimpletwillweavecottonfabricwithastriped,plaid,checked Madras CheckFabrics are madebythisweave(Seeimage59) weaving process.Itismadeinvariousmaterialsandcanbeusedthedresses.Mosquitonets It isafabrichavingnetlikestructure.Thewarpyarnsareinter-crossedwiththeweft,during Leno Fabrics 78 WOVEN TEXTILES 79 Piqué Fabric almost like a with a pebbly weave that looks cotton or cotton blend fabric It is a medium-weight check. Pique is suitable for vests, jackets and fitted blouses. It is also used in children's clothes. blouses. It is also used in children's for vests, jackets and fitted check. Pique is suitable Poplin Fabric Poplin by weave. The construction is characterized a rib variation of the plain A fabric made using having a slight ridge effect in one direction. Poplin is usually associated with casual clothing. is usually associated with effect in one direction. Poplin having a slight ridge Quilting layer of down or fibre fill is placed between two layers of fabric, A fabric construction in which a and then held in place by stitching by hand or by machine or sealing in a regular, consistent, all- by hand or by machine or sealing in a regular, and then held in place by stitching Sateen Fabric and a gentle, subtle luster; it is a weft dominant structure. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand (See image 46) draperies and upholstery. Sateen fabrics are often used for over pattern on the goods. (See image 47) over pattern on the goods. (See image Satin Fabric on fiber content. Silk and rayon satins have a lustrous, shiny surface, drape ability depends With the best stitch results. It is a warp predominant structure. (See image 36 & 37) the best stitch results. It is a warp It is a fabric with a woven pucker. This fabric is traditionally cotton, but can be polyester. but can be polyester. This fabric is traditionally cotton, It is a fabric with a woven pucker. Seersucker Fabric Suitable for shirts, casual slacks and children's clothing. (See image 28 & 44) Suitable for shirts, casual slacks A fabric traditionally woven in wool but now made in cotton as well as in other materials too. The A fabric traditionally woven in wool but now made in cotton as well Scottish Check design is largely check fabric having red, white and black combination with similar patterns in design is largely check fabric having red, white and black combination It is a heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a often hand-woven, It is a heavy, warp and weft direction, hence producing very balanced check fabrics. (See image 66) warp and weft direction, hence producing very balanced check fabrics. Fabric Tapestry historical or current pictorial display. It is a weft dominant structure with warp that is visible on historical or current pictorial display. the back. End use includes wall hangings and upholstery. (See image 58) the back. End use includes wall hangings and upholstery. A waterproofed canvas sometimes made of nylon or other manmade fiber. A waterproofed canvas sometimes made of nylon or other manmade Tarpaulin WOVEN TEXTILES 30) Depending uponitsweightandconstructionitis usedforhomefashionandapparel.(Seeimage Derivatives ofplainweavestructurewherein theribformationisinweftdirection. Warp Rib: image 27) A crisp,lightweight,plainweavecotton-likefabric,itisappropriateforblousesanddresses.(See Voile Fabric is perfectfordrapesandhomedécoritemsaswelltrousers,jacketsskirts. A cottonorblendedfabricwithashort,densepile.Itlacksthesheenanddrapeofvelvet. Velveteen fuller pants. machine washedandwillnotcreateashineintheseatorelbows.Appropriatefortops,skirts With alongerpile,velvetisthemostluxuriousfabric.StretchhassomeLycra, Itcan be Velvet image 50&51) It isafabricthatshowsdistinctdiagonallinesontheface(e.g.,tweed,denim,gabardine).(See Twill Fabric yarns. Commonenduseincludescoatsandsuits.(Seeimage50) It isamediumtoheavyweight,fluffy, woollen,twillweavefabriccontainingcolouredslubbed Tweed for curtainsanddressmaterial.(Seeimage38&39) Light weight,sheerplainwovenfabricmadebyusingsilk,finecottonandLurexyarns.Itisused Tissue Fabric reverse andaknit-likeface.(Seeimage29) Unclipped, loopedpile,100%cottonterryclothishighlyabsorbent.FrenchTerry hasalooped Terry Cloth 80 WOVEN TEXTILES Image 27 Image 30 the weft direction Solid piece dyed Plain woven cotton voile fabrics Warp rib, rib formation is in Warp 81 Image 29 Image 24 Image 26 a derivatives Cut Pile woven fabric of twill woven structure Herring bone woven fabric- Image 28 Image 25 structure cotton fabrics Hound's tooth effect fabric, mainly used for jacketing, blazers and long coat fabric Hound's tooth effect fabric, mainly Seersucker Plain weave Honeycomb woven fabric WOVEN TEXTILES dyed inindigocolourand the weftisoffwhite,now Denim usuallyhaving3/1twillwovenwithwarp denim isprintedwithrubber printingtechnique available invariousshades ofcolour. Abovethe Ikat fabrics:atthetopsingleikatmadeHyderabadwhereinonlywarporweftistie-dyed Net fabricusedoverafor and inthebottomdoubleikatproducedatSambhalpur(Odisha) Image 34 ornamentation Image 31 wherein bothwarpandweftistie-dyed Image 33 82 Organza fabricusedalongwith other fabricforornamentation Gauze fabricinyarndyedCotton Image 32 Image 35 WOVEN TEXTILES Image 41 Image 38 Image 44 Printed tissue Seersucker Organza Digital printed moss crepe 83 Image 43 Image 37 Image 40 Printed Satin Printed organdy (warp faced sateen) fabric Multi layered (3 layered) fabric Image 36 Image 39 Image 42 fabric structure Plain Lurex tissue Double Cloth Fabric Satin (warp faced sateen) WOVEN TEXTILES Extra weftdesignonafabric Drill- Atwillweaveusedas trouser orJacketingfabric Printed Muslinfabric Image 48 Image 45 Image 51 Extra warpdesignmade using dobbyonafabric Sateen orweftsatin Cotton checkfabric Image 52 Image 46 Image 49 84 Tweed aTwillweaveon Machine quiltedfabric Dupion silkfabric trouser fabric Image 50 Image 47 Image 53 WOVEN TEXTILES Image 59 Image 56 Image 62 Leno weave Chambray fabric Jacquard woven brocade fabric 85 Image 58 Image 61 Image 55 Calico fabric Artificial Furfabric Simple Tapestry weave Simple Tapestry Image 57 Image 54 Image 60 Felted woolen fabric Felted Jacquard woven fabric Jacquard woven fabric Aamir Khan: Electronic WOVEN TEXTILES Dobby fabricswithSmall Scottish checkfabric buties madeonit Flannel Fabric Image 69 Image 66 Image 63 Madras checkfabrics Corduroy fabricused Batik printedfabric for trousers Image 64 Image 70 Image 67 86 Gingham checkfabrics Panipat Doublecloth made onJacquard Boucle fabric Image 68 Image 71 Image 65 WOVEN TEXTILES Image 73 Cotton Checkfabric 87 Image 72 Cotton stripe fabric WOVEN TEXTILES Chapter- 13: 13.1 INTRODUCTION Application ofComputertechnologyinweavinghasmadetremendousadvances. In recentpastcomputershaveplayedanimportantroleindevelopingthedesigns weaving operation. problem, andrestartthe incorrect insertion,correctthe filling insertions,removesthe Computer detectsincorrect winding upwovenfabric. both warpandfillingyarns for minorchangesintensionof are maintainedwhileadjusting high speedoffillinginsertion looms withmultifunctionalmicrocomputers.Thecomputeraltersloomoperationsothat Weaving qualityandefficiencyhaveimprovedassomemillsstartedusingautomatic Automation helpsreducefabricdefectsandmadethedeliveryoffaster. software meetingtheneedsinwiderrange. order is possible. ThereareseveralagenciesintheworldsellingcustomizedCAD order ispossible. compared withtheseveralhoursofhardwork.With QSCshorterminimumyardage electronic jacquardallowchangesfromonefabricstyletoanotherinafewminutes,as operations ofindividualthreadtocreatethedesign.QuickStyleChange(QSC)and sophisticated extensively. Computersandelectronicsdevicesareimportantindevelopingdesignusing CAD (Computer Aided Design) CADAided (Computer Computerization inTextileDesign 88 . Microcomputers control the control . Microcomputers WOVEN TEXTILES 89 speed, efficiency of the machine. This in turn has improved the quality of the has improved the quality of the of the machine. This in turn speed, efficiency fabric. industry in dealing with the customer demand more effectively. The advancements have effectively. with the customer demand more industry in dealing centred mainly on: sophisticated and advanced weaving technologies. Hence this has placed weaving Hence this has placed advanced weaving technologies. sophisticated and Over the years several ResearchOver the years out in (R&D) have been carried and Development 1. 2. designs more complex and intricate Devices to weave the the electronic monitoring system to increase computer application and Advanced 3. of inserting filling yarns and more efficient means Faster 4. woven fabric and let-off motions. Automation of devices to speed the take-up of 5. up changing the warp. Devices that facilitate and speed 13.2 ADVANCEMENTS IN LOOM TECHNOLOGY LOOM IN 13.2 ADVANCEMENTS Summary: reduces the It role in developing the designs easily. Computers have played an important production cost. The visual appearance of the fabric can be seen by stimulating it on the of the fabric can be seen by stimulating it on the production cost. The visual appearance Computer. Computers and electronics devices are important in developing design using and electronics devices are important in developing Computers Computer. sophisticated CAD. This chapter very briefly informs the students about the computerization in This chapter very briefly informs the students sophisticated CAD. the textile industry and new advancements. More research and advancements are still advancements. More research and advancements are still the textile industry and new happening in this sector. WOVEN TEXTILES .Choosethecorrectanswerfromgivenoptions. 4. .Filluptheblank. 3. .Answerthefollowingquestions 2. .Assignment: 1. .CAD is 1. .……………………..isStrong, medium-toheavyweight,warp-faced,twill-weave 5. .……………………..afabric,usuallymade ofcottonorablend,utilizing …………………….isastrong,durable,closelyplainwovencottonfabric. 4. 3. .The…………………techniqueofplainwovenfabricisbrocadedwithuntwisted TheSurat…………………isbasedonatechniqueofsatinweaving. 2. 1. ..Namethetypesilkproduced inAssam? Q.5. Namethe basic structureoftheIndiantextileindustries? Q.4. Name thekindofshawlsproducedbyKashmiriweavers? Q.3. NamethevarioussegmentsofIndiantextileindustries? Q.2. ..Whatarethe variousendusesofthefabrics,nameany10it? Q.1. Visit afabricproductionunitnearbyyourhouseorschool,collectyarns,samples, students maybeaskedtocompletetheabovetask. Alternatively avisittofabricproductionunitcanbearrangedbyschoolandthen photograph ofvariousloomsandmakeavisualpresentationinyourlearningdiary. fabric. cut-pile weaveconstruction. silk thread. )Computeraideddisk Computer aideddesign b) a) Unit -4Assignment 90 WOVEN TEXTILES 91 d) None of the above c) drawing Computer aided a)b) kind of fabrics hard Very c) pile fabrics Loop or cut form of d) dominant fabrics Weft lines diagonal produces Fabric a)b) by 2:2 ratio warp series c) by 2:1 ratio warp series d) warp series by 1:2 ratio of the above None b)c) Having light with and stiffened d) derivatives of plain weave Having Balanced twill a) high twisted yarn With c)d) Pique’ None of the above a)b) Seer sucker organza 2. and terry are Velvet 3. tooth effect is produced Hound's 4. a fabric Organdy is 5. A fabric with pucker WOVEN TEXTILES wales direction.Example: Sweaters,hosiery rows ofloopscalledwales andcoursesrespectivelywithfabriccomingout ofthemachinein Interloping -Knitting: filling) whichareperpendiculartooneanother. Example: Shirting Interlacing -Weaving: very smallindiameterrelationtotheirlength. Fibres: bonding thatmaybeusedinproductionoffurther goods(garments,etc.). Fabric: fabric. Itismeasuredasendsperinchandpicks Fabric Density: Ends perinch: drafting order. Drafting order: Denting order: Dent: Creel: for aspecificpurpose. Cloth: automobiles mechanically, thermallyorchemicallytoformasheetweb structure.Example:Liningin Bonding (Non-Woven /Felting): Beating-up: interlacements justlikeinthemats. Basket/Matt orHopsackweaves: Silk fibreandWool fibre Animal Fibre: The gapbetweenthetwometallicorwoodenstripofreedisknownasdent. DuringwarpingYarn packagesareplacedonalargemetallicframeknownascreel. May beusedsynonymouslywithfabricbutoftenreferstoafinishedpieceof Aredelicate,hairportionsofthetissuesaplant oranimalothersubstancethatare Refers to anymaterialmadethroughweaving,knitting,spreading,crocheting,or Refers The carryingforwardofthelastinsertedpickorweft,tofellcloth. They areproducedbyanimalsorinsectsandproteinincomposition,E.g.: This isdefinedasthenumberofendsorwarpthreadsinoneinchfabric. Passage warpthroughthereedinanappropriateorderiscalleddentingorder. Passage warpthroughtheHealdshaftinan appropriateorderiscalled The fabricdensityisdefinedasthenumberofendsandpicksinaunit Interlacing oflengthwiseyarn(warp)withthewidth wiseyarn(weft/ Interlopingofoneyarn systemintoverticalcolumnsandhorizontal Bondingtogetherofentangledfiberorfilamentyarn, Glossary Oneofthederivativesplainweavehaving 92 WOVEN TEXTILES 93 They are synthesized or created from various elements into They are synthesized or created The natural material of cellulose can be taken from cotton linters of cellulose can be taken from The natural material These are derived from various sources. These are derived Various minerals have been manufactured into glass, ceramic and graphite minerals have been manufactured into glass, Various They are composed of metal, plastic coated metal, metal-coated plastic or a of metal, plastic coated metal, They are composed These fibres include those produced by plants, animals and geological These fibres include those produced A sateen weave is predominantly a weft faced weave, whereas satin is a warp A sateen weave is predominantly a weft faced weave, whereas satin This is defined as the number of picks or weft threads in one inch of the fabric. This is defined as the number of These are mined from certain types of rocks, E.g.: Asbestos fibre These are mined from certain types The most prominent and common class of weave The most prominent and common The Reed inches. Count is defined as number of dents in two Extreme ends of the both the sides of a fabric in width wise, having warp ends per Extreme ends of the both the sides of a fabric in width wise, having The insertion of the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, through the shed. The insertion of the weft thread, Is a device that contains a bobbin on which filling yarn is wound. The sizing paste is applied on the warp yarn with the warp sizing machine, it gives The sizing paste is applied on the warp yarn with the warp sizing The fabric is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the ends or warp (vertical warp (vertical the ends or a device that holds on a loom, is usually woven The fabric It is a metallic comb like structure in a loom which is made up of number of metallic or It is a metallic comb like structure in a loom which is made up Loom: Yarns) in place while picks or filling yarns(horizontal yarns) are woven through them. woven through yarns) are filling yarns(horizontal while picks or in place Yarns) Manmade Cellulosic Fibre: Manmade Cellulosic and wood pulp, processed chemically and changed in form and other characteristic to form in form and other characteristic processed chemically and changed and wood pulp, manmade cellulosic fibre. E.g.: Rayon,manmade cellulosic Modal Manmade Fibre: Metallic Fibers: Metallic Fibers: core completely covered by metal. They are used as decorative yarn for various apparel and home as decorative yarn for various apparel covered by metal. They are used core completely furnishings. Mineral Fibre: Minerals Fibers: fibres having prescribed properties for specific use. E.g.: Glass fibers fibres having prescribed properties Natural Fibre: processes. They are biodegradable over time. They can be classified according to their origin. processes. They are biodegradable Non-cellulosic Polymer Fibres: Non-cellulosic Polymer large molecules which are called linear polymers because they are connected in link-like fashion. linear polymers because they are connected in link-like large molecules which are called E.g.: Acrylic fibre, Nylon fibre, Polyester fibre E.g.: Acrylic fibre, Nylon fibre, Polyester Picking: Picks per inch: Plain weave: Reed Count: Reed: wooden wires. Sateen & Satin: Selvedge: of the fabric is the self- dent or per inch more than the body area in the fabric. The selvedge dominant fabric finished edges of the fabric. Shuttle: Sizing: WOVEN TEXTILES Fabric. Yarn: Weft rib: Weft ofpicks: Weave: representing hundredsofends(multipleendpackages)iscalledWarping. Warping: Warp Rib: warp orends. Warp orends: cotton fibre,jutefibre. Vegetable Fibre: more orlesspronounceddiagonallinesineitherwarpweftdirection. Twill weave: later processtosecuretuftedloops. with thefabriccomingoutofmachineinrowsdirection.Fabric mustbeback-coated ina vertical columns(rows)andhorizontallines(stitches)formingcutand/oruncutloops(piles) Tufting: Textile: than theirappearance,arecommonlyreferredtoasTechnical Textiles Technical Textiles: of weaving. sufficient strengthtotheyarnsoasminimisefrequentsbreakagesofyarnsduringprocess The strandsoffibresaretwistedorspuntogethertoformaYarn thatismadeintoa ThewaythewarpandfillingthreadsinterlacewitheachotheriscalledWeave. Refers toanymaterialmadeofinterlacingfibres. Refers oneofthederivativesplainweave,havingribformationinwarpwise. It is"Sewing"asurfaceyarnsystemofloopsthroughprimarybackingfabricinto Theprocessofconvertingyarnfromsingleendpackagetoanevensheet one ofthederivativesplainweavehavingribformationinweftwise. Twill weavescaneasilybeidentifiedbyitsgeneralcharacteristicwithseriesof AllHorizontalseriesinafabricistermedasweftorpicks. Vertical seriesonaloomistermedaswarporyarnparalleltoselvedgecalled It isfoundinthecellwallofplantsandarecellulosiccomposition.E.g., Textiles usedforindustrialpurposes,andchosencharacteristicsother 94 WOVEN TEXTILES 95 CREDITS and 2010-14. NIFT Gandhi Nagar Ms. Anjali Sharma and Mr. Zango of Fashion Design Department at NIFT Gandhi Nagar Design Department Zango of Fashion and Mr. Ms. Anjali Sharma Ms. Margee Parmar of Textile Design Department at NIFT Gandhinagar, batch 2008-12. batch Gandhinagar, Design Department at NIFT of Textile Ms. Margee Parmar Mr. Asif Ahmed, student of Textile Design department at NIFT Gandhinagar, batch NIFT Gandhinagar, Design department at of Textile Asif Ahmed, student Mr. Photographs by Ms. Sumita Agrawal, Assistant Professor, Textile Design Department at Textile Assistant Professor, Photographs by Ms. Sumita Agrawal, Mr. G. Rajesh Kumar, Assistant Professor NIFT Hyderabad Rajesh Kumar, G. Mr. The images of the Textile Machinery in the Unit-I and Unit-II are from a renowned Textile a renowned Textile the Unit-I and Unit-II are from Machinery in Textile The images of the Industry in Ahmedabad. They have been used with their permission. They have been used with Industry in Ahmedabad. Images in "Introduction" of Chapter-1: Images in "Introduction" Images used in the Unit-I and Unit-II: Images used in the Unit-I and Illustrations in Unit-II: batch 2010-14 Design Department at NIFT Gandhinagar, Asif Ahmed, Textile Mr. Book layout: Design Department at Textile Associate Professor, & Ms. Rupali Pandit, Ms. Shubhangi Yadav Computer Illustrations in Unit III and Unit -IV: Computer Illustrations in Unit NIFT Gandhi Nagar Mr. Asif Ahmed, of Textile Design department at NIFT Gandhinagar, batch 2010-14. batch Asif Gandhinagar, Design department at NIFT Ahmed, of Textile Mr. Book cover: 2 2 2 2 2 WOVEN TEXTILES T W Practical Manual e x o t v i e l e n s

WOVEN TEXTILES 98–99 103–108 100–102 Contents Unit–3 Unit–2 Unit–1 Assignment No.1: To understand the different materials (Fiber Types) used to make a fabric and (Fiber Types) used to understand the different materials To Assignment No.1: Assignment No.2: To study and understand the different types of looms. study and understand the different To Assignment No.2: study its characteristics Assignment No.4: To gain knowledge and visualize the effect of interlacing of material gain knowledge and visualize the effect of interlacing Assignment No.4: To to be used for weaving in the next assignments Assignment No.5: Set up the loom Assignment No.3: To understand working of a textile unit as studied in the textbook understand working of a textile unit Assignment No.3: To Part A Part Assignment 6- drafting and peg plan. Use graph paper to draw plain weave with Assignment 7- Draw 5 regular or irregular Mat weaves/ Warp Ribs/ Ribs with drafting and peg irregular Mat weaves/ Warp Assignment 7- Draw 5 regular or Weft plan Assignment 8- 5 "Z" Twill with drafting and peg plan Draw 5 Balanced/ 5 Un balanced/ "S" Twill/ Assignment 9- Draw 5 regular and irregular sateen weave/ satin weave with drafting and peg plan Assignment 9- Draw 5 regular and irregular sateen weave/ satin Part B Part Assignment 12 - Sample weaving - Rib Weave Assignment 13 - Sample weaving - Twill Weave Assignment 14 - Sample weaving - Sateen Weave Assignment 10 - Sample weaving - Plain Weave Assignment 11 - weaving - Mat Weave Sample Assignment 15 study the different variety of fabric as available by their commercial names. - To WOVEN TEXTILES UNIT - Outcome: Method: Objective: them. .Classifytheseswatchesand writeabouttheirlook(Dull,Bright,rough,etc.),texture(rough, 4. .Theswatchestobecollectedare: 3. .Cuttheseswatchesinto5"x5"piecesandstickthem inthescrapbooks 2. .Thestudentshouldgotoaclothshop,tailor ormallintheneighborhoodandcollect 1. characteristics properties. made fromdifferentfibershavefeel,look,comfort,texture,physicalandchemical The characteristicofthefabricchangesdependinginfiberusedformakingafabric.fabrics a Yarn thatismadeintoaFabric. kinds offibersareusedformakingaYarn. Thestrandsoffibersaretwistedorspuntogethertoform The basicrawmaterialusedbythetextileindustryformakingafabricisFiber.Manydifferent should bedoneinthisnotebook. The studentshouldmakeascrapbook(i.e.200Pages Plain Paper Book).TheAssignments1,2, smooth, etc.)andfindout1to2physicalchemical properties. .Modal j. .Pletre olf Linen Jute f. c. Acrylic i. Cotton Wool b. e. Viscose h. Non-wovenFabric g. Polyester d. Silk a. following swatches. Thestudentswillunderstandthedifferentquality offabricsandwillbeabletoidentify To understand thedifferentmaterials(FiberTypes)usedtomakeafabricandstudyits 1 Assignment No.1 98 WOVEN TEXTILES 99 Assignment No. 2 Assignment To study and understand the different types of looms. and understand the different types study To All the students will understand the different types of looms available for fabric All the students will understand class d. Advantages e. Disadvantages f. point (if there) And any other a. Brief History b. and Technology Working c. Usage and Application Weaving is done on a machine called loom. There are many types of looms as studied in chapter 3 of There are many types of looms is done on a machine called loom. Weaving Outcome: Objective: Method: Unit I. The loom is classified on the basis of method of insertion of weft. is classified on the basis of method Unit I. The loom 1. Airjet, etc.) Rapier, one type of loom (Ex, Handloom, 5-6 students should take up Group of 2. to understand its and discuss the loom type in detail group should then study Each 3. make a 10-15 slide power point presentation The Group should then and present to the whole manufacturing. WOVEN TEXTILES UNIT - Method: .Makeatleast5-6structuresandstickthem inthescrapbook 4. .Createinteresting woventexturesbyusingtheseaswarpandweftinterlacing themin 3. .CuttheminverticalandhorizontalStripesofsamedifferentsizes 2. .Take anycolourpaper/newspaperwithorwithoutimage 1. Aim: effects produced. paper stripesindifferentwayswithouttheconstraintofweavesandaskthemtostudy newspaper can produce interesting textures. Theteachershouldmakethestudentinterlace newspaper canproduceinterestingtextures. Paper Weaving willhelpstudentstounderstandhowtheinterlacementofcoloredpaperor class ofstructureformstheDesign. yarns calledWeft. Thesethreadsareinterlacedwithoneanotherinmanydifferentwaysandeach Woven Fabrics aremadeupofvertical(Lengthwise)yarnscalledWarp andhorizontal(widthwise) .The students shouldwritethenamesofinputandoutputpackageateachprocess. 3. Thestudentsshould writeasmallnoteonwhyeachoftheprocessisrequired 2. .After thevisitstudentshouldmakeadetailedflowcharttoshowprocessflowfromWeaving 1. from spinningtoweavingfabricprocessing) Outcome: Method: Objective: Arrange aclassvisitofthestudentstocompositetextilemill(i.e.thathasprocess To gainknowledgeandvisualizetheeffectofinterlacing ofmaterial different order. different order. Preparatory (i.ewinding)toweavingintheirscrapbook. Thestudentwillunderstandindetailtheworkingoftextilemill To understandworkingofatextileunitasstudiedinthetextbook 2 Assignment No.3 Assignment No.4 100 WOVEN TEXTILES or in both forms, yarns in various 30 (24 inch width) complete with accessories like shuttles, 30 (24 inch width) complete with 10 (made in plastic): 500 Looms: Yarns in hank form, cone form in hank form, cone form Yarns 10 (horizontal type or vertical type or peg warping frames) 10 (horizontal type or vertical type charkha: 8s, 10, 16s, 20s, 24s, 282, 302, 32s, 36s, 40s, 42s etc: at least 10 in each counts 8s, 10, 16s, 20s, 24s, 282, 302, 32s, Bobbins sample required 30 but may be procured in double the quantity for better stock. required 30 but may be procured 60 (hand throw shuttles) The students will understand the difference between a Flat Paper and then when it is a Flat Paper understand the difference between The students will Warping Mill: Warping Table top Table lease rods, heald shafts with proper lifting mechanism) lease rods, heald shafts with proper each measuring 24 inch counts and colours such as 4s, 6s, 10s, 20s, 30s. 32s. 40s, AND 2/4s, 2/6s, 2/10s, 2/20s, counts and colours such as 4s, 6s, 10s, 20s, 30s. 32s. 40s, AND 2/17s,2/30s. 2/32s. 2/40s, Lab Size: 2000 SFT Lab Size: 2000 SFT No. No. of No. of Hand driven 4-6 inch Empty Metallic Reeds: Reed Hooks: Shuttles: Cutter Rulers Sufficient quantities of Pair of scissors Pair C C C C C C C C C C C C 5. of the same by the faculty is needed) (Demonstration cut in to stripes and woven, the textures that it generates. This will help the student to understand generates. This will help the student and woven, the textures that it cut in to stripes the interaction between the different types of yarns counts and colors when they are woven together. counts and colors when they the different types of yarns the interaction between Lab requirements for a batch of 30 students Lab requirements Practical Assignment Practical Assignment Outcome: WOVEN TEXTILES upcoming practicalassignments. .Settinguptheloomi.ewarpingandwindingwarp ontheweaver'sbeam 6. DoDenting(4Ends/DentforSelvedgeand2 forBody) 5. .Thestudentsshould thenbetaughttodoDrafting(4shaftsStraightDraft) 4. .Thestudentshouldlearntowarptheyarnoncreel (makelease,countthecrosses,etc) 3. .CalculatetheWarp forsettinguptheloom Requirement 2. .Thestudentshouldselecttheyarnsforweaving(i.ewhichcountandcolour) 1. Aim: total endsrequiredforweavingaswatch,EPI,countandthecolorsofyarnstobeused. Method: Materials forwarp: Outcome: The loomhastobemadereadybeforeweaving.For thesamestudentsneedtounderstand C C Setuptheloomtobeusedforweavinginnextassignments .Calculatethewarprequirementi.e.Total Ends b. .Take asperthecountofyarnselected Reed a. A combinedwarpof4meterlengthfortheentireweavingistobesetup.(Warp couldbecotton This MaterialrequirementisforPractical1,2and3combined in anyoneofthecount,2/10sor2/17s2/20s) Thestudentwilllearntosetuptheloomwhichthenbeusedforweaving Assignment No.5 102 WOVEN TEXTILES 3 UNIT - UNIT 103 Assignment No. 6 Assignment No. 7 Assignment No. 8 Assignment No. 9 To use inch graph paper (The square grid paper used to draw design, draft and peg plan) to use inch graph paper (The square grid paper used to To (Practical has been divided into two parts: Part A deals with the practical fabric sample weaving on A deals with the practical divided into two parts: Part (Practical has been Part A Part Practical Assignment Practical Assignment the table top loom while Part B deals with graphical representation of different weaves) with graphical representation B deals while Part the table top loom Aim: Material required: Inch graph paper, Pen, Sketch pens, HB Pencil, Eraser, pencil sharpener, scale, sharpener, pencil Eraser, Sketch pens, HB Pencil, Pen, Material required: Inch graph paper, practice the following weaves 2. 5 regular or Draw Ribs with drafting and peg plan irregular Warp Use graph paper to draw plain weave with drafting and peg plan. Use graph paper to draw plain weave 1. 5 regular or Draw irregular Mat weaves with drafting and peg plan and note pad. 1. Draw 5 Balanced Twill weave with drafting and peg plan 2. Draw 5 Un balanced Twill weave with drafting and peg plan 3. Draw 5 regular or Ribs with drafting and peg plan irregular Weft 1. weave with drafting and peg plan Draw 5 regular and irregular sateen 2. weave with drafting and peg plan Draw 5 regular and irregular satin 3. Draw 5 "S" Twill with drafting and peg plan 4. Draw 5 "Z" Twill with drafting and peg plan WOVEN TEXTILES Procedure/methods: Requirements: Principles: Based ontheinformationprovidedintechnical theweavingiscarriedout sheet havinginformationabouttheweavesandlifting plan. In ordertoweaveitrequiresaloomwithwarpon it,withvarietyweftyarn,ashuttletechnical the sequenceisreversedfornextpick repeats every two ends and two picks. Whenonehealdshaftisraisedtheotherlowered,andthen repeats everytwoendsandpicks. then underoneweftyarn.Theyrequireonlytwohealdshaftsorharnessesbecausetheweave In principleinordertoconstructaplainweave,eachwarpyarnpassesalternativelyoverone and To constructaplainweaveontabletoploom. Aim ofthePracticalassignment: Materials forweft:Weft couldbecottoninanyoneofthecount,2/10sor2/17s2/20s AsmentionedonPage 2 Materials forwarp: No. ofshuttles:1-2 No. ofshaftsrequires:4 Equipment: Table toploom Name oftheweave:Plainweave spreadable andpliable,iscalledafabric. using anytextilefiberinto2dimensionalor3structureswhichmaybedrape-able, may beusedinproductionofanyenduseproductsuchasgarments.Whenamaterialisconstructed the loomusoperatedusingpoweritiscalledpowerloom.Thefabricthusproducedtheselooms instrument knownastheLoom.Theloommaybeoperatedbyhandandiscalledloom.When Fabric weavingreferstoanymaterialmadethroughweaving.Weaving assuchcarriedusingan studied. Fabric Weaving: Part B Outcome: The studentwillbeabletodrawdesign,draftpegplanforallthedesignsthattheyhave Assignment No.10:Sampleweaving-PlainWeave 104 WOVEN TEXTILES 105 2 As mentioned on Page Mat weaves Weft could be cotton in any one of the count, 2/10s or 2/17s or 2/20s could be cotton in any one of the count, 2/10s Weft Assignment No. 11: Sample weaving - Mat Weave Mat Weave 11: Sample weaving - Assignment No. Table top loom Table What is the two most primary element used in a weaving? What is the two most Observations: in which the weft yarns are lifted and the manner of warp and the way warp Observe the passage to achieve a plain weave. yarn is inserted Name of the weave: No. of shuttles: 1-2 Materials for warp: Equipment: No. of shafts requires: 4 Materials for weft: To construct derivatives of plain weave that is Mat weave. To In principle in order to construct a Mat weave, two warp yarn passes alternatively over two and then a Mat weave, two warp yarn passes alternatively over two and then In principle in order to construct In order to weave it requires a loom with a warp on it, with variety weft yarn, a shuttle with technical with a warp on it, with variety weft yarn, a shuttle with technical In order to weave it requires a loom under two weft yarn. sheet having information about the weaves and lifting plan. yarn is inserted to achieve a Mat weave. How the Mat weave is similar to that of plain weave? Based on the information provided in technical information the weaving is carried out Based on the information provided in technical information the weaving and the manner in which the weft Observe the passage of warp and the way warp yarns are lifted Viva Questions: Viva Procedure/methods: Observations: Requirements: Principles: Aim of the Practical assignment: Aim of the Practical assignment: Viva Questions: Viva WOVEN TEXTILES No. ofshuttles:1-2 No. ofshaftsrequires:4 Equipment: Name oftheweave: What isthetwomostprimaryelementusedinaweaving? yarn isinsertedtoachieveaRibweave. Observe thepassageofwarpandwayyarnsareliftedmannerinwhich weft Based ontheinformationprovidedintechnicalweavingiscarriedout. sheet havinginformationabouttheweavesandliftingplan. In ordertoweaveitrequiresaloomwithwarponit,varietyweftyarn,shuttletechnical and thenthesequenceisreversedfornextpick. every two or more ends and two or more picks. Whenonehealdshaftisraisedtheotherlowered, every twoormoreendsandpicks. one orsetofweftyarn.Theyrequireonlytwohealdshaftsharnessesbecausetheweaverepeats In principleinordertoconstructaRibweave,oneoreachsetofwarpyarnpassesalternatively over To constructawarp/weftRibweaveontabletoploom. Materials forweft: Materials forwarp: No. ofshuttles:1-2 No. ofshaftsrequires:4 Equipment: Name oftheweave: Procedure/methods: Requirements: Principles: Aim ofthePracticalassignment: Viva Questions: Observations: Table toploom Table toploom Assignment No.13:Sampleweaving- Twill Weave Assignment No.12:Sampleweaving-RibWeave Weft couldbecottoninanyoneofthecount,2/10sor2/17s2/20s Twill weaves Warp RibweavesorWeft Ribweaves AsmentionedonPage 2 106 WOVEN TEXTILES 107 As mentioned on Page 2 on Page As mentioned 2 As mentioned on Page Sateen weaves Weft could be cotton in any one of the count, 2/10s or 2/17s or 2/20s could be cotton in Weft Assignment No. 14: Sample weaving - Sateen Weave weaving - Sateen Weave Assignment No. 14: Sample Table top loom Table Materials for warp: Materials 2/10s or 2/17s or 2/20s be cotton in any one of the count, could Weft Materials for weft: To construct Twill weave. construct To Principles: four picks. In this left repeating on four ends and twill (2/2) running from right to 2 up and 2 down Aim of the Practical assignment: Aim of the Practical weave equal size of lines are formed by alternately raising and lowering down two warp threads for raising and lowering down two of lines are formed by alternately weave equal size every pick and stepping one warp thread in consecutive rotation as successive picks are inserted rotation as successive picks one warp thread in consecutive every pick and stepping Requirements: with a warp on it, with variety weft yarn, a shuttle with technical In order to weave it requires a loom sheet having information about the weaves and lifting plan. sheet having information about Observe the passage of warp and the way warp yarns are lifted and the manner in which the weft the way warp yarns are lifted and the manner in which the Observe the passage of warp and weave. yarn is inserted to achieve a Twill Based on the information provided in technical information the weaving is carried out Based on the information provided Name of the weave: How to identify a twill weave? No. of shafts requires: 5 (the student will be required to redraft and re-dent for this swatch) No. of shafts requires: 5 (the student will be required to redraft and Equipment: No. of shuttles: 1-2 Materials for warp: Materials for weft: 5 End Sateen can be woven using the move of 2 and move of 3. Aim of the Practical assignment: construct Sateen weave. To Principles: Viva Questions: Viva Procedure/methods: Observations: WOVEN TEXTILES able toidentifythem. .Write there 5. Classify theseswatches 4. .Cuttheseswatchesinto5"x5"piecesandsticktheminthescrapbooks 3. .Collect atleast10swatchesbythecommercialnameastaughtinchapter-11ofUnit-IV 2. .Thestudentshouldgotoaclothshop,tailor ormallintheneighborhoodandcollect 1. Objective: maybe becauseofitscomposition,themillthatfirstmadethisvarietyfabric,construction. woven fabricbutitiscalledaspoplin,cambric,lizzybizzy, Thesenameshavebeenderived etc. The fabricsaresoldinthemarketwithcommercialname.For examplethefabriccouldbeplain they areusuallynotsoldinthemarketwiththesenames. The variousfabricsareavailableinthemarket.fabriccouldbeaplainweaveormattwill, but name andbasicqualitiesoffabrics. tailor shop,cuttheminto5"x5"swatchpiecesandstickinyourbookswithitscommercial Collect any10varietiesoffabricswatches(astaughtintheChapter-12)fromnearestmarket or How toidentifyasateenweave? yarn isinsertedtoachieveaSateenweave. Observe thepassageofwarpandwayyarnsareliftedmannerinwhichweft Based ontheinformationprovidedintechnicalweavingiscarriedout sheet havinginformationabouttheweavesandliftingplan. Viva Questions: Observations: Procedure/methods: In ordertoweaveitrequiresaloomwithwarponit,varietyweftyarn,shuttletechnical Requirements: Outcome: Method: .EIXPIb Weave b. EndUse d. Weight (inGrams persquaremeter) c. EpI XPPI a. following swatches. To studythedifferentvarietyoffabricasavailablebycommercialname. the studentswillunderstand thedifferentcommerciallyavailablefabrics andwillbe Assignment No.15 108