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Greenland by the Polar Sea

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Greenland by the Polar Sea i 00 'CM fen :o -i£> CO AM li'M! Hlli^.^ ;H li- 'i'i'im\-,iA fe m:;}!H:i:m HANDBOUND AT THE UNTVERSITY OF TORO.VTO PRESS Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/greenlandbypolaOOrasm •^.A GREENLAND BY THE POLAR SEA ^ ^•^ V aud Maps R"yf 8vo. MiUon,i,™ion ^.C.own Also a Cheaper ^^^ ^^ ^^^_ THE HEART OF THE ANTARCTIC „„^.^leton, C.V.O. »/ ^'^'^K^vSd'EdiC.rwith 111- Kew and Keyiatu ^ white. colour and l^l*«^*^^ trations iu ga. „et. Crown 8vo. BLIZZJ^B'^^y THE HOME OF THE ^'^ of the BE. With Being the story 6^:. 1^. .s, Maps, etc. In two Arctic Expedition, Colas \uw80Ku. •- 36s. net. °X'°nrIonC PENGUINS R.N., Zoolo- , Dr. G. MuKRAY Deiuck, » 1\T- gist to tlie Scott Expedition. Beautifully Illustrated from Photographs. 6s. net. LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN 7/ » GREENLAND BY THE POLAR 8EA THE STORY OF THE THULE EXPEDITION FROxM MELVILLE BAY TO CAPE MORRIS JESUP BY KNUD RASMUSSEN TRANSLATED FROM THE DANISH BY ASTA AND ROWLAND KENNEY WITH PREFACE BY ADMIRAL SIR LEA\TS BEAUMONT, G.C.B WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS IN BLACK AND WHITE, EIGHT COLOUR PLATES, AND MAPS • J. V 4^' LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN PEEFACE " GREENLAND by the Polar Sea is the ston-, now intro- duced to EngHsh readers, of Mr. Knud Rasmussen's last expedition to the Polar shores of North Greenland. He counts it as his Fourth Thule Expedition, which shows how active and persevering has been his exploration of North Green- land since 1910, when he first formed his base of operations, and a trading station, at North Star Bay, and gave it the name of Thule. Two of these remarkable expeditions were sledge journeys across the inland-ice to the north-eastern and northern coasts of Greenland which yielded valuable results, clearing up some geographical doubts, and practically linking up the eastern and western discoveries of former explorers. Knud Rasmussen may confidently be said to be a verv^ special and exceptionally favoured explorer of these regions, for not only was he born in Greenland and lived there as a boy, but his life among the Green- landers and Eskimos, his perfect knowledge of their language, his admiration of their character, courage, and loyalty, and his intense desire to be the historian of their origin, traditions, and future development ha\e, in a large measure, inspired him with the explorer's enthusiasm and have made him feel it to be pos- sible, with slender means and limited resources, to complete the work begim by the far more costly expeditions which have gone before. These advantages, however, would have availed nothing without Knud Rasmussen's own personal qualities as an explorer —ever>' page of the narrative shows his high capacity and thoughtfulness as a commander, his resourcefulness and daring as a leader, and the splendid courage and power of endurance which carried him through a time of extreme trial and responsi- bility. It was his firm support and example which saved the party from death on the return journey. V PREFACE To those readers who are not famiUar with the physical con- ditions of the immense mass of land known as Greenland it may be of use to explain that the inhabitants of the larger south half are spoken of as Greenlanders and those to the north of Melville Bay as Polar Eskimos or Arctic Highlanders. The inland- ice forms a barrier between the two, so that communication between them can only be made by ship. Never before has the Arctic Highlander been made known to us in such intimate detail and with such true and affectionate understanding of his life and character as Rasmussen here gives us ; he speaks as one of them, who has li^ed their life and shared their experiences, and to whom, as a people, he has become deeply attached. No wonder then that never before has an explorer been rewarded with such unstinted and devoted service as he receives from them. It is well to make this point clear, which Rasmussen in his narrative so modestly accepts as natural and does not emphasize. Early expeditions in those regions used one or two Eskimos as hunters and dog-drivers, and gained their experience of Arctic life at great cost and with but small results. Peary, in his twenty-four years of patient and deter- mined effort to discover the hidden secrets of the Polar Basin, advanced step by step to the knowledge of the Eskimo's char- acter and the value of his hunting craft and wonderful travelling instinct, but Rasmussen alone has led an important and success- ful expedition equipped and conducted entirely in Eskimo fashion and maintained, in its long and adventurous journey, by Eskimo hunting. It is only such a combination of European leadership and skill, adapted to native craft and conditions, that could have made such an extended exploration possible to him. The interest of the narrative is great, and sustained at a high level by the literary charm of the descriptions and the unaffected light and shade which runs through the whole story. It is the mark of a leader to keep his party in good spirits ; it is the duty of the historian to show upon whom fell the responsibility and the decisions in emergencies. It was right to call it a great adventure, but Rasmussen, in the spirit of the true explorer, " says : The risk one nms on such expeditions (when their lives vi — PREFACE depended upon the game found by hunting) was quite clear to me ; but the mind never occupies itself with the dangers when one is setting out. Every Polar traveller is aware of his risks when he leaves his home to set foot on unknown shores ; and thus it was also with us. All my comrades greeted my plans with enthusiasm, and every man was inspired with one thought only : the certainty of success." It was in this spirit that they set out. Rasmussen's tribute to the work done by his predecessors in Arctic exploration is most generous and discriminating ; he shows that he understood their difficulties, though they were not his in the same way, and what they accomplished he is eager to recognize and admire. They, or such of them as remain, in their turn are glad and ready to say that what he and his com- panions have added to the sum of Polar knowledge by their detailed mapping of the coast-lands—the fauna, flora, and geological formation of the north-western section of Greenland and its connection with the discoveries of the eastern coasts has set the crown on the labours of those who have toiled before him in the same field, and that his fine achievement has for ever put him in the front rank of Polar explorers. LEWIS BEAUMONT. vu CONTENTS PAGS PREFACE BY ADMIRAL SIR LEWIS BEAUMONT, G.C.B. v INTRODUCTION xvii CHAPTER I FROM THE LIFE AND HISTORY OF THE ESKIMOS 1 CHAPTER II THE GREAT SLEDGE JOURNEY TO THE NORTH COAST OF GREENLAND 33 CHAPTER III WASHINGTON LAND TO HALL LAND 61 CHAPTER IV CAPE SUMNER TO DRAGON POINT 80 CHAPTER V SHERARD OSBORNE FJORD TO NORDEXSKJOLD FJORD 94 CHAPTER VI THE CAMP BY THE OWL'S NEST 124 CHAPTER VII CAPE SALOR TO LOCKWOOD'S BEACON 137 CHAPTER VIII DE LONG FJORD TO CAPE SALOR 152 CHAPTER IX ACROSS MELTING ICE TO SUMMER VALLEY 166 CHAPTER X SHERARD OSBORNE FJORD TO ST. GEORGE FJORD 182 CHAPTER XI THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY ACROSS THE INLAND- ICE 210 ix CONTENTS PAOS CHAPTER XII SEEKING HELP 241 CHAPTER XIII A RACE WITH DEATH 259 CHAPTER XIV A RUNIC MEMORIAL 271 CHAPTER XV HOME TO THULE 284 APPENDICES FLORA AND FAUNA ON THE NORTH COAST OF GREENLAND 292 BASED ON DR. WULFF'S NOTES BY C. H. OSTENFELD GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 301 BY LAUGE KOCH THE ROUTES OF ESKIMO WANDERINGS INTO GREENLAND 312 INDEX 321 . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS To fare page TkA>"GEAVES : THE HaEBOUE FOE THE WHOLE MeECHAXT FlEET OF Greeslaxd xviii xviii The Colony : Egedesminde (Noeth Greenland) Leaatng the Chuech at Jacobshavn xix With the Sledges as Feeeies we of Qaeesoessuaq ceoss ovee to Upeesivik Island xx Upeeniyik Island xx The Expedition Ship " Danmark " at Thule Haeboue xxi John Eoss' fiest Meeting with Polar Eskimos xxiv The Route 1 Eskimos at Ikeeasak, Umanaq Fjord 4 Tasiussaq : the most Xoetheen Colons- in Geeenland 4 The Devil's Thumb 5 The Whalers' Fleet, 1818 8 The Sailing Ships beeaking theough the Ice at the time of John Ross 8 Retuening feom Waleus Hunting, Thule 9 Tobias Gabrielsen 12 Simon, the Old Beae-Hunter 12 An Old Wanderer feom Mel%tlle Bay 12 Eskimo Boy feom Upeenivik 13 Thule 13 Eskimos Deinkdjg Coffee in Old Style 16 QlNGMINEGAEFIK IN InGLEFIELD GuLF 16 Sabine Island : Melville Bay 17 Aenanguaq 18 xi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS To face page Eskimo returning to Harbour 18 Sketches by Qujakitsunguaq 19 Harpooning a Walrus from a Kayak 20 Eskimos going out on the New Ice to hunt Walrus 20 Harpooning Walrus 20 Walrus being pulled up by the aid of Primitive Tackle 20 Two young Eskimo Mothers with their Children 21 Grazing Reindeer 22 Musk Cows with Calf 22 Swimming Reindeer pursued by Kayaks 22 Seal being Harpooned as it comes up to its Breathing-Hole 23 Killed Musk-Oxen being Skinned 23 Polar Eskimos dressed in Fox Pur Coats 23 Polar Eskimos' House 24 Asarpaka 24 Kagssaluk 24 Bearded Seal 25 Killed Narwhal 25 Walrus breaking the Surface of the Sea 28 The Three Brothers 29 The Beautiful Isigaitsoq 30 Eskimo Boy 30 Eskimo Girl 30 Indteq 31 Ajorssalik 31 Hall's Grave 31 Little Incidents from Everyday Life 32 Thule Station 33 A Jolly Evening at Thule before breaking up for the Journey 33 From Thule to Humboldt Glacier 34 The " Danmark " in Winter Harbour 36 xii 2 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS To face page OsE OF THE Sledges neae Ulugssat 35 The Pack-Sledges set out feom Xeqe 40 YouxG Beab-Hunter 41 Two EsKTUo Boys of Seventeen Yeaes 41 The Meat-Matador Majaq 50 Eskimo Smile 50 WrSTEE-HoUSE BEF0EE THE SxOW FaLLS 51 My O'vrs Dogs eeady foe Staetlng 51 FrsE Dexvin'g along the BkatjtifuIj Feontage of the MoiTNTArNS of Washington Land 56 NaSAITSOEDLUABSUK : THE YotTNGEST MeMBEE OF OUE EXPEDITION 57 The last Tjimigeant feom Baffin Land : Meequsak 57 EOEWAED AT AN EVEN TeoT (30 The little Bear, sueeount>ed by all the Dogs 60 Feom Humboldt Glaclee to Xewjian Bay 61 Cape Constitution 86 Page of Pe.usv's Report 87 Cape Sumner : Deagon Point 92 M-VEKHAM Plants the Union Jack farthest Noeth 94 Lieut.
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