Abstract & Creative Landscapes Using Intentional Camera Movement

with Stephanie Johnson Seeing Things Differently – Beyond Form

Abstract photographic images, created through the applied use of ICM, show beauty exists even in the most ordinary of scenes and in different ways than typically expected.

When we combine this concept of abstract photography with the idea of ‘seeing things differently’ we begin to appreciate the essence of the things we observe around us, rather than seeing them literally.

By seeing the essence of things, we can then embrace an interpretation of the world ‘beyond form and function’ to make more meaningful connections to our surroundings, as well as with the images we create. What is Intentional Camera Movement (ICM)?

• At its basic level, ICM is an intentional process using camera movement during the of an image

• It uses a slower speed to introduce blur and/or movement into the image

• ICM is about pushing the boundaries of what is possible

• It’s about creating unique images using a different ‘vision’ process…by ‘seeing’ things differently

• Contrary to what some may think, ICM is NOT simply ‘camera shake’ Things to Keep in Mind About ICM

• Forget the ‘rules’ and break free of the standard photographic conventions

• No tripod necessary (except for with zoom bursts)

• Free-style it by handholding the camera

• Don’t be a perfectionist…throw caution to the wind

• There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’

• Have fun experimenting and trying new things

• Don’t be afraid to take multiple shots of the same scene More Things to Keep in Mind About ICM

• Look for lines, color, shapes, patterns, light, contrasts, etc., in the environment that appeal to your aesthetics and create unique images with movement

• Create for yourself and don’t worry what anyone else thinks or whether others will ‘get it’

• Be open to creating images from ordinary or overlooked scenes

• ICM can be done at any time of the day, in any kind of weather conditions

• ICM is subjective and not everyone will like it. Do it anyway. ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ ~ Before & After Examples ~ General Approach

• One of the most important things you can do with ICM photography is to keep an open mind

• Be open to the possibilities…as you’ve seen in the before & after examples, anything from a pile of brush and fallen tree logs to scenic landscape views can be transformed into fresh new creative images

• Don’t feel you have to wait for any particular kind of light – the beauty of ICM is that it can be done in almost any lighting conditions

• Look for interesting colors, shapes, designs, textures, contrasts, and lines that may catch your eye Composition

• Composition in the traditional sense isn’t necessarily as important, however you do still want your images to have the feel of being well composed

• Shooting ICM is essentially an intentional random act, so some images may end up tilted, or the dividing line may be higher or lower in the frame than you’d like…some of these things can be fixed in post- processing, but keep shooting until you see you’ve captured the composition you desire

• Sometimes the composition you initially imagined may turn into something completely different when you see things happening in the LCD screen upon review Technical Aspects

• Shooting in Manual mode affords more freedom to experiment with various settings

• If you aren’t comfortable shooting in Manual yet, Shutter Priority is the next best option, because is more important than ISO or

• Aim for shutter speeds of 1/30” of a second and slower

• Shutter speed may vary depending on factors such as available light and speed/amount of movement Technical Aspects

• Adjust the Aperture and ISO to achieve the shutter speed you desire

• Don’t be afraid to shoot with smaller or higher ISOs when necessary

• Focus, aperture, depth of field, detail, and even grain are less important in ICM photography than in traditional photography

• Use a focal length that captures the amount of a particular scene that is pleasing to you…for instance, you may want to zoom in for a tighter shot, or zoom out to include more of the surroundings Technical Aspects

• Understand how movement affects the results

• Faster movement during the exposure will result in smoother lines and less detail of the subject, while slower movement during exposure will result in more of the subject being recognizable and lines that are more representative of the subject

• The key really is to experiment with a variety of different settings and movements

• The more you do ICM, the more you will refine your own personal style and learn what works for you Types of Movement

• – horizontal movement, either left-to-right or right-to-left

• Tilting – vertical movement, either bottom-to-top or top-to-bottom

• Circular – rotate the camera about a quarter turn in either direction

• Diagonal – move in a diagonal direction, either left or right

• Wavy – move the camera in a wavy, or squiggly, line in any direction

• Zoom Burst – with a , zoom in or out on the subject

• Fast or Slow – move the camera faster or slower Types of Movement

• Panning – horizontal movement, either left-to-right or right-to-left

• Tilting – vertical movement, either bottom-to-top or top-to-bottom

• Circular – rotate the camera about a quarter turn in either direction

• Diagonal – move in a diagonal direction, either left or right

• Wavy – move the camera in a wavy, or squiggly, line in any direction

• Zoom Burst – with a zoom lens, zoom in or out on the subject

• Fast or Slow – move the camera faster or slower Types of Movement

• Big or Small – move the camera with bigger or smaller motions

• Push or Pull – push the camera outward or pull inward

• Smooth or Jerky – move the camera in smooth or jerky motions

• Experiment with your own different movements

• Remember – different movements, at different speeds, will create different effects, and no two images will be exactly the same Example of Panning

Canon 5D Mark III

ISO 100

Focal Length – 100mm

Aperture – f/22

Shutter Speed - 1/8” Example of Panning

Canon 5D Mark III

ISO 100

Focal Length – 105mm

Aperture – f/10

Shutter Speed - 1/10” Example of Tilting

Canon 7D

ISO 100

Focal Length – 100mm

Aperture – f/13

Shutter Speed - 1/13” Example of Tilting

Canon 5D Mark III

ISO 100

Focal Length – 138mm

Aperture – f/11

Shutter Speed - 1/13” Example of Circular

Canon G7X

ISO 400

Focal Length – 20mm

Aperture – f/11

Shutter Speed - 1/13” Example of Circular

Canon G7X

ISO 125

Focal Length – 10mm

Aperture – f/11

Shutter Speed - 1” Example of Diagonal

Canon G7X Mark II

ISO 125

Focal Length – 37mm

Aperture – f/5.6

Shutter Speed - 1/13” Example of Diagonal

Canon G7X

ISO 125

Focal Length – 31mm

Aperture – f/4

Shutter Speed - 1/4” Example of Wavy

Canon G7X

ISO 125

Focal Length – 37mm

Aperture – f/11

Shutter Speed - 1/2” Example of Wavy

Canon G7X Mark II

ISO 200

Focal Length – 37mm

Aperture – f10

Shutter Speed - 1/13” Example of Zoom Burst

Canon 5D Mark III

ISO 100

Focal Length – 24mm

Aperture – f/8

Shutter Speed - 10” Example of Zoom Burst

Canon 5D Mark III

ISO 100

Focal Length – 35mm

Aperture – f/4.5

Shutter Speed - 15” Finding What Works

• The key is to experiment…the more you do it, the more you will learn what works for you and what doesn’t

• Look at the LCD screen after each shot to determine whether or not you either achieved (1) the results you were going for or (2) results that are pleasing to your own personal style…if not, make adjustments to settings, composition, or movement and shoot again, and again, until you get what you want

• Different types of movement create different effects, so try different things to learn what works best for you Finding What Works

• Different speeds of movement also create different effects

• Be prepared to shoot A LOT of images that are unsuccessful, don’t work, or just don’t measure up to your individual aesthetic…it’s a process, and all these images help you refine your personal aesthetic

• The look and feel of the images you create will be determined by a combination of factors…direction of movement, speed of movement, smoothness of movement, and settings Experiment with Settings & Movement

• Be open to trying different combinations of settings…there is no such thing as a ‘correct’ setting…the best settings are the ones that work for you

• Loosen up and try different movements – It may feel awkward at first, but the more you practice, the easier it becomes Tips & Hints

• ICM can be accomplished with any kind of camera…you don’t need a DSLR or interchangeable lenses to shoot ICM

• Don’t be afraid to shoot LOTS of images each session – hundreds of images are not out of the question for any given outing

• Multiple memory cards and batteries are a MUST

• Don’t be afraid to shoot multiple frames of the same scene – it may take a dozen or more to get what you’re going for Tips & Hints

• Refrain from deleting images in camera, in the field – you need to have a look at all images on the computer in order to learn what works and what doesn’t work for you

• It’s sometimes helpful to start your movement before you press the shutter

• Continue the movement throughout the exposure to ensure a smooth finish – But also consider experimenting to see what effect stopping or changing movement might achieve Links & Resources

It’s always good to study the work of other photographers and artists whose work you admire. These are a few of the ICM and creative photographers I follow:

• Doug Chinnery – www.dougchinnery.com • Valda Bailey – www.valdabailey.com • Bailey & Chinnery – www.baileychinnery.com • Ted Leeming and Morag Paterson – www.leemingpaterson.com • Roxanne Bouche’ Overton – www.roxanneoverton.com • Michael Orton - www.michaelortonphotography.com • Art of the Blur by John Mee – www.artoftheblur.com Connect with Me

I’m always happy to connect and share information, to answer questions, or offer advice and encouragement, so please feel free to reach out to me at any of the following:

• Website – www.stephjohphoto.com • Facebook – www.facebook.com/stephjohnphoto • Instagram – www.instagram.com/stephjohnphoto • Twitter – www.twitter.com/stephjohnphoto • Flickr – www.flickr.com/photos/stephjohnphoto • LinkedIn – www.linkedin.com/stephjohnphoto • YouTube - www.youtube.com/channel/UCrHeiZaGl_TA1xiNbvTQ1CA

I also have a Facebook group for anyone interested in sharing their creative work. This is the link to join:

• www.facebook.com/groups/creativeandabstractphotography