Index

2004 Vol109 Antarctica: art. 'Hard Labour on Planet Antarctica', 123, MEF Acopantepui (Venezuela): art. report, 339 'Venezuelan Verticality', 76, topo, 84 Arctic: art. 'Arctic Adventures: Afghanistan: art. 'Afghanistan 2003', Tilman Style', 143 327 Arran, Anne: art. 'Holey Moses', 86 Africa, North: art. 'Middle East & in art. 'Venezuelan Verticality', 76; North Africa', 304 341, biography 410 Aiguille de la Republique: 256,photo, Arran, John: art. 'Venezuelan 257 Verticality', 76, in art. 'Holey Aitken, Bill: and a political Moses', 86; 341, biography 410 controversy, 317 Arunachal Pradesh: 316 Alaska: 330 Asia, Central: art. 'Russia & Central Albania: art. 'Mountains for Peace in Asia 2003',285, MEF report, 347 the Balkans', 151, map, 152 Algeria: 304 Baffin Island: 333 Alpine Climbing Group: 192, 394 Bailey, F M: 97 Alpine Club: birth of, 187,231, 'Bailey Trail, The': 317 Officers & Committee, 393, Office Balkans: art. 'Mountains for Peace in Bearers, 393, Meetings, 394, Sym­ the Balkans', 151, map, 152 posium report, 395, Band, George: his AC Library Annual Dinner, 395 report, 403 Alpine Club Library: report, 403; Bartlett, Phil: his review of The Fall 151,337 by Simon Mawer, 354 Alpine Journal, The: 255 Bayne, Ronald: art. 'Arthur Wakefield Alpine Ski Club: 190 on Everest 1922: no 'passenger', Alps, The: arts. 'Finsteraarhorn N-E 221; biography 410 Spur Centenary', 176, 'Over­ Bell, Gertrude: 177 crowded Alps?', 183, 'One Hundred Ben Nevis: 262f, 301, new guide 302 Years Ago', 255, 'Alps & Pyrenees Bernina: 276, 282 2003',265 Beu-tse (6270m): in art. 'Climbing the Ama Dablam: 14 Fish Village Mountain', 36, map, 40 Amatter, Fritz: 179 Black Cuillin, future of: 4D2 America North & Central: MEF Boardman Tasker Memorial Award: report, 337 398 America, South: MEF report, 339 Boden, 'Tuffty' Nick: in art. 'Waiting Andes, (South America): in art. for the Sun', 69; 343 'Women Pioneers in the Andes, Body, Margaret: her report 'The 1903-1950', 241 Boardman Tasker Award', 398 Annapurna Ill: art. 'Annapurna Ill, Bonington, Chris: and Sepu Kangri, SW Ridge', 3 46,187, and Panch Chuli Il, 313; his obituary of Arne Ncess, 380

417 418 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2004

Book Reviews: 349-374 and Tragedy on the World s Highest Yosemite by Alexander Huber Mountain by Audrey Salkeld, and Heinz Zak, reviewed by 374. Everest. Reflectionsfrom the Royal Robbins, 349. The Fall by Top Ed. Christine Gee, Gary Simon Mawer, reviewed by Phil Weare & Margaret Gee, 374 Bartlett, 354. Mountains ofthe Mind by Robert Macfarlane, reviewed Borthwick, Alastair: in art. 'Two by Terry Gifford, 355. The Naked Lives' by Co1in Wells, 248 Mountain by Reinhold Messner, Briggs, Tom: art. 'Waiting for the reviewed by Peter Gillman, 357. Sun', 69; 343, biography 410 The Unreliable Mushrooms by Terry British Mountaineering Council: Gifford, reviewed by Dave Wynne­ 187,337 Jones, 363. Mount McKinley s West Broad Peak (8047m): 320 Buttress. The First Ascent. from Brad Brown, Joe: 192, 200 Washburn's Logbook 1951, and Bryce, James: 401 Escapefrom Lucania. An Epic Buckle, Derek: art. (with John Struggle for Survival by David Town) 'Climbing the Fish Village Roberts, reviewed by Geoffrey Mountain', 36; 347, biog 410 Temp1eman, 364. Detectives on BuWer, Carlos: art. 'Completing a Everest by Jochen Hemrnleb, Dream: the Ascent of Sepu reviewed by Peter Gillman, 365. Kangri',46; biography 410 Invisible on Everest: Innovation and Bullock, Nick: art. 'Love and Hate the Gear Makers by Mike Parsons on the Edge of Darkness', 14; and Mary B Rose, reviewed by 275,340,344, biography 410 Dick Turnbull, 367. My Father Bylot Island (Arctic): 143 Sandy by Nicho1as Wollaston, reviewed by Geoffrey Temp1eman, Caius College, Cambridge: 231 369. Mont Blanc Conquete de Campbell, Douglas: 343 I Imaginaire from Collection Canada: 333 Payot, reviewed by Andre Moulin, Cartwright, Chris: 302f 370. Where the Mountain Casts Its Cartwright, Jules: in art. 'Love Shadow by Maria Coffey, and Hate on the Edge of reviewed by Va1 Randall, 371. Darkness', 14; 275, 344 Follow the Sun: A Traverse of the Caucasus: 285 Alps on Skis by Peter Seaman, Cave, Andy: 29,346 reviewed by Phi1 Wickens, 372. Cerro Torre (3128m), North Face: Climbing Down by Graham 339 Wilson, 373. Tarns ofthe Central Changabang (6866m): 312 Lake District. Depth Surveys and the China: art. 'Alpine Style in the Alps Environmental Context edited by of Tibet', 29, MEF report, 345 Henry Osmaston, 373. Great Chinese Mountaineering Assoc: 29 Encyclopcedia ofMountains and Chogolisa (7665m): 326 Mountaineering by Malgorzata & Chorley, Roger: his obituary of Jan Kielkowski, 374. Everest. 50 Alfred Tissieres, 385 Years of Struggle to reach the Top of Clarke, Dr Charles: and Sepu the World by George Craig, 374. Kangri,46 Climbing Everest. Tales of Triumph Climbers' Club, The: 188 INDEX 419

Clyma, Julie-Ann: in art. 'Alpine Fairley, John: 25 Style in the Alps ofTibet', 29; 346 Far East, The: MEF report, 347 Continental United States: 335 Faux, Ronnie: his obituaries of Cool, Kenton: in art. 'Annapurna AsWey Greenwood OBE, MC, Ill, SW Ridge', 3; 344 382, and Squadron Leader Cooper, Julian: art. 'Painting the Lester W Davies MBE, 388 Eiger', 207; biography, 411 Fell and Rock Climbing Club, The: Cordillera Darwin (Chile): art. 188, 228f 'Monte Shipton or Monte Festival of Mountaineering Litera­ Darwin?', 132, map, 134 ture: report, 408 Crimea (Ukraine): 286 Finsteraarhorn: in art. Crass, Alice 'Jammy' (1911-2004): 'Finsteraarhorn N-E Spur in art. 'Two Lives', 251 Centenary', 176 Curran, Jim: _art. 'KZ - 50 Years On', Fordham, Derek: art. 'Greenland 171, biography, 411 2003',294, biography, 411 Fowler, Mick: 29,346 Dansketinde (2930m): art. 'The Ridges of Dansketinde', 57; maps, Garhwal: 309 58,59;298,341 Gaherbrum I (8068m): 322 Davies MBE, Squadron Leader Gasherbrum II (8035m): 321 Lester: obituary, 388 Gasherbrum IV (7980): 325 Davison, Brian: 342 Gifford, Terry: his review of Daxue Shan (Tibet): 29 Mountains ofthe Mind by Robert Day, Henry: art. 'A Matterhorn Macfarlane, 354 Postscript', 230, biography, 411 Gilkey, Art: and K2, 173 Desio, Ardito: and K2, 173 Gillman, Peter: his review of The Dolomites: 283 Naked Mountain, by Reinhold Douglas, Lord Francis William Messner, 357, and of Detectives on Boiverie: 231 Everest by Jochen Hemrnleb, 365 Goodwin, Stephen: Foreword, vii, Eagle Ski Club: 348 biography, 411 Ecclestone, Margaret: tribute on her Gray, Dennis: art. 'A Hitchhiker's retirement, 404, her report Guide to Yosemite', 196, 'European Mountaineering biography, 411 Libraries', 405 Greenland: arts. 'The Ridges of Echevarria, Evelio: art. 'Women Dansketinde', 57, 'Waiting for the Pioneers in the Andes, 1903-1950', Sun', 69, 'Greenland 2003', 294; 241, biography, 411 MEF report, 341 Ecrins: 269 Greenwood, Ashley, OBE, MC, QC: Edwards, Menlove: 190 obituary, 382, photo, 383 Egypt: 305 Griffin, Lindsay: arts. 'Alps & Eiger, North Face: in art. Pyrenees 2003', 265, 'Pakistan 'Painting the Eiger', 207 2003', 319, 'Afghanistan 2003', Ellsworth Mountains: in art. 'Hard 327, biography, 412 Labour on Planet Antarctica' 123, Granlund, Toto: 25 map, 124 Grosvenor, Mount (6376m): in art. Everest (see Mount Everest) 'The Alps ofTibet', 29 420 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2004

Gutierrez, Pablo: in art. 'Hard Irrawaddy (source of): art. 'Quest Labour on Planet Antarctica', 123 for the Source of the Irrawaddy', Guzman, Eugenio: in art. 'Hard 97, maps, 998, 100, 101 Labour on Planet Antarctica', 123 Irvine, Hamish: 61, 68, 341 Isherwood, Dick: 24 Hall, Brian: in art. 'Toward Defining the Void', 216 Japanese Alpine Club: 317 Harding, Warren: 200ff Jebb, Adrian: in art. 'Waiting for Hargreaves, Richard: art. 'Moun­ the Sun', 69; 343 tains for Peace in the Balkans', Jebel Safsafa (Sinai): 86 151, map, 152; biography, 412 Johnston, Hunter: obituary, 390; 396 Harrison, Sheila: farewell tribute, Jones, Colwyn: 61,68,341 396 Jordan: 305 Hartley, Terry: obituary of Jane Jordan, Rodrigo: art. 'Hard Labour Reid,379 on Planet Antarctica', 123; Hasler, Gustav: 179 biography, 412 Herbert, T M: 203 Higgins, Craig: in art. 'Flight from KZ (8611m): art. 'KZ - 50 Years On', the Hbrnli', 92 171, in art. 'Pakistan 2003', 319 Hillary, Sir Edmund: 317 Kapadia, Harish: arts. 'On the Himachal Pradesh: 313 Death Trail', 112, 'A Siachen Himalaya: arts. 'Annapurna Ill, Peace Park?" 161, 'India 2003', SW Ridge', 3, 'Love and Hate 308; and Panch Chuli I1, 313; and on the Edge of Darkness', 14, Patron's Medal, 318; biography, 'Pokharkan South Face', 24, 412 'India 2003',308 Kapadia, Nawang: 161 Himalayan Club: 75th birthday, Karakoram: arts. 'A Siachen Peace 317f Park?" 161, 'K2 - 50 Years On', Hispar Glacier region (Pakistan): 171, 'Pakistan 2003',319, 323 Karakoram, East: art. 'On the Hodgkin, Robin: obituary, 376, Death Trail', 112, map, 118,315 tribute, 378 Karakoram Pass: 112 Hopkins, David: 399 Karakoram, West: info, 326 Hornby, Geoff: Oman report, Kathmandu: 4, 14 306 Kendal Mountain Film Festival: 216 Hbrnli Ridge (Matterhorn): 92 Kingdon-Ward, Frank: 97 Houston, Charles: and K2, 173 Knott, Paul: Area Notes edited by, Howard, Tony: art. 'Middle East & 265, art. 'Russia & Central Asia North Africa', 304; biography, 412 2003',285; 338, biography, 412 Hubbard, Alun: 340 Kosovo: 151 Kumaun: 311 Imitzer, Alfred: and KZ, 172 Kun (7077m): 315 India: arts. 'A Siachen Peace Park?', Kun Lun: 289 161, 'India 2003',308, MEF report, 344 Ladakh: art. 'On the Death Trail', International Year of Mountains: 166 112; 315 Ladies' Alpine Club: 188 INDEX 421

Lawford, Bob: 396 Nadine, Simon: 29,346 Lhasa: 46 N~ss, Arne: obituary, 380, photo, Libya: 304 381 Longstaff, Tom: 224 Nagai, Tsuyoshi: III Loppe, Gabriel (1825-1913): his Nakamura, Tamotsu: art. 'Quest for painting The Matterhorn from the Source of the Irrawaddy', 97; Riffelberg (1879): 233 317, biography, 413 Nanga Parbat (8126m): 322 McAdie, Neil: 29,346 Nankervis, John: 110 Macdonald, Kevin: in art. Nepal: arts. 'Annapurna Ill, 'Re-Touching the Void', 211; 217 SW Ridge', 3, 'Love and Hate McGimpsey, Dave: 300 on the Edge of Darkness', 14, Machapuchare: 4 'Pokharkan South Face', 24, MEF McNaught-Davis, Ian: 317 report, 344 Mallory, George Leigh: 216,221 Newcomb, Mark: in art. Masherbrum (7855m): 325 'Completing a Dream: the Ascent Matterhorn: in arts. 'Flight from the of Sepu Kangri', 46 Hbrnli', 92, 'A Matterhorn Newsom, William: his obituary of Postscript', 231, painting The Hunter Johnston, 390 Matterhornfrom Riffilberg (1879): Nisbet, Andy: 300f 233;278 Nyenchentangla range: 36,45,49,56 Maxwell, Peter: in art. 'Arctic Adventures: Tilman Style', 143 Obituaries: 375-392 Merz, Johanna: farewell tribute to Olivares, Ernesto: in art. 'Hard Sheila Harrison, 396, 412 Labour on Planet Antarctica', 123 Mexico: 336 Oman: 306 Middle East: art. 'Middle East & Ostin, Chuck: 200ff North Africa', 304 Miller, Ade: art. North America Panch Chuli Il (6904m): 313 2003',330; biography, 413 Pakistan: arts. 'On the Death Trail', Mirfin, Rob: in art. 'Waiting for the 112, 'A Siachen Peace Park?', 161, Sun', 69; 343 'KZ - 50 Years On', 171, 'Pakistan Monasterio, Erik: 338 2003',319 Mont Blanc: 92, 270, 278 Pamir: 288 Mont Blanc range: 256, 270, 276 Pamir Alai: 287 Montenegro: 152, 153 Parnell, Ian: art. 'Annapurna Ill, SW Morocco: 304 Ridge', 3; 344, biography, 413 Moulin, Andree: his review of Mont Payne, Roger: art. 'Alpine.Style in the Blanc Conquete de I Imaginaire, 370 Alps ofTibet', 29; 346, 413 Mount Everest: in art. 'Arthur Peck, Sir Edward: his tribute to Robin Wakefield on Everest 1922', 221 Hodgkin,378 Mount Everest Foundation: Pettigrew, Robert: 317 Expedition Reports, 337 Pinnacle Club: 189 Mullin, A1an: 339 Pokharkan (6350m): art. 'Pokharkan Muir, Scott: 53 South Face, Nepal', 24 422 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2004

Porter, John: art. Toward Defining Sakai, Hiroshi (deputy leader, Indo­ the Void', 215; biography, 413 Japanese East Karakoram Powell, AI: in art. 'Love and Hate Expedition 2002): in art. 'On the on the Edge of Darkness', 14; 340, Death Trail', 112 344 Saunders, Victor: art. 'Flight from the Pratt, Chuck: 200ff H6rnli', 92; 53, biography, 414 Preston, Jonathan: in arts. 'The Scott, Alasdair: 28, in art. 'Climbing Ridges of Dansketinde', 57, the Fish Village Mountain', 36; 347 'Greenland 2003',298; 301, 341 Scott, Martin: 28, in art. 'Climbing Pyrenees: art. 'Alps & Pyrenees 2003', the Fish Village Mountain', 36; 347 265 Scottish Mountaineering Club: 57, 188 Randall, Val: her review of Where the Sepu Kangri (6956m): art. 'Com­ Mountain Casts Its Shadow by Maria pleting a Dream: the Ascent of Sepu Coffey, 371 Kangri', 46 Rangel, Alfredo: in art. Shepton, Bob: art. 'Arctic Adven­ 'Venezuelan Verticality', 76; 341 tures: Tilman Style', 143; Reid, Jane: obituary, 379 biography, 414 Reid, Stephen: art. 'The Ridges of Shieldaig Forest, Wester Ross: hydro­ Dansketinde', 57, in art. 'Greenland electric scheme, 403 2003',298; maps, 58, 59; 341,413 Shipton, Eric: 132 Renshaw, Dick: in art. Shipton, John: art. 'Monte Shipton 'Finsteraarhorn N-E Spur or Monte Darwin?', 132; Centenary', 176 biography, 414 Reynolds, Kev: art. 'Overcrowded Siachen glacier: 112, art. 'A Siachen Alps?', 183; biography, 413 Peace Park?', 161 Richardson, Simon: art. 'Scottish Siberia and the Russian Far East: 291 Winter 2002-2003',300; 302f, Simpson, Joe: in arts. 'Re-Touching biography, 414 the Void', 211, 'Toward Defining Riffelberg Hotel: 230, 233 the Void, 217 Robalino, Isabel de: 242, photo, 243 Sinai: new route and art. 'Holey Robbins, Royal: 199, his review of Moses', 86, map, 87 Yosemite by Alexander Huber and Siula Grande: in art. 'Re-Touching Heinz Zak, 349 theVoid',2l1; 217 Robinson, Tony: 396 Slingsby, Cecil: 188 Rose, David: 92 Smith, Ian: art. 'Edward Whymper's Rouse, Al: and K2, 172 London',234; biography, 415 Royal Geographical Society: 337 Smyth, Edmund: 396 Rucksack Club: 188 Somervell, Howard: 224 Russell, Chris: art. 'One Hundred Sondheimer, Ernst: his report Years Ago', 255; biography, 414 'In the Footsteps of Slingsby', 400 Ruthven, Bill: MEF Expedition South Georgia: 340 Reports 2003, 337; biography, 414 Spantik (7027m): 324 Russia: art. 'Russia & Central Asia Staunings Alps: art. 'The Ridges of 2003',285 Dansketinde', 57; maps, 58, 59 INDEX 423

Templeman, Geoffrey: book reviews Vanoise: 269,276 compiled by, 349; reviews 364, 369; Varco, John: in art. 'Annapurna Ill, obituaries compiled by, 375, SW Ridge', 3; 344 biography, 414 Venables, Stephen: art. Teng Kangpoche: in art. 'Love and 'Finsteraarhorn N-E Spur Hate on the Edge of Darkness', 14, Centenary', 176; biography, 415 Thalay Sagar (6904m): 309 Venezuela: art. 'Venezuelan Thorburn, Malcolm: 343 Verticality', 76 Thaw, Kevin: 339 Venn, John and Henry: in art. 'A The Nose on El Capitan: 202 Matterhorn Postscript', 230 Thurston, Bill: 26 Tibet: arts. 'Alpine Style in the Alps Walker, Derek: art. 'The Evolution of ofTibet', 29, 'Climbing the Fish Climbing Clubs in Britain', 187; Village Mountain', 36, 'Com­ biography, 415 pleting a Dream: the Ascent of Sepu Wayfarers' Club: 188 Kangri', 46, 'Quest for the Source Wells, Colin: art. 'Two Lives', 248; of the Irrawaddy', 97, MEF report, 300, biography, 415 345 Tien Shan: 289 Whillans, Don: 192, 196 Tierra del Fuego (Chile): art. 'Monte Whymper, Edward: in art. 'Edward Shipton or Monte Darwin?', 132, Whymper's London', 234; 92, 230 map, 134 Wickens, Phil: his review of Follow Tilman, Bill: in art. 'Arctic Adven­ the Sun: A Traverse ofthe Alps on tures: Tilman Style', 143 Skis by Peter Seaman, 372 Tissieres, Alfred: obituary, 385, photo, Wieser, Hannes: and K2, 172 386 Wilkinson, Dave: 342 Touching the Void: in arts. Wolf, Mrufka: and K2, 172 'Re-Touching the Void', 211, Wynne-Jones, Dave: art. 'Toward Defining the Void', 215 'Pokharkan South Face, Nepal', 24; Town, John: art. (with Derek Buckle) his review of The Unreliable Mush­ 'Climbing the Fish Village rooms by Terry Gifford, 348, his Mountain', 36; 346, biography, 415 report on the 17th Int. Festival of Tullis, Julie: and KZ, 172 Mountaineering Literature, 408, Turnbull, Dick: his review of biography, 415 Invisible on Everest: Innovation and the Gear Makers by Mike Parsons Yates, Simon: art. 'Re-Touching the and Mary B Rose, 367 Void', 211, in art. 'Toward Defin­ ing the Void', 217; biography, 415 UIAA: 160,166, and AC, 401 Yorkshire Ramblers: 189 Yosemite: in art. 'A Hitchhiker's Valais: 275 Guide to Yosemite', 196 Valais Guides: 279ff Young, GeoffreyWinthrop: 153,188, Vallance, Mark: his obituary of 190 Robin Hodgkin, 376 Young, Nigel and Antonia: 153