The Inside: Parti Pg. 13 SWEEPING REORGANIZATION OF MACY’S BRASS/2 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • December 22, 2005• $2.00 es of 2005List Sportswear Purple Prose — A little bit tough, a little bit sweet. Marc Jacobs mixed both elements for Louis Vuitton cruise, from dashing military-inspired coats to sexy pantsuits. Here, a silk taffeta jacket worn over a cashmere sweater and wool . For more, see page 4.

Transit Strike Day Two: NYC Retailers Reeling As Shoppers Take a Walk By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — Anxiety among retailers here ratcheted higher during the second day of the New York City transit strike on Wednesday amid signs of the walkout’s worsening economic toll. Holiday Spending Heats Up in Europe. Page 9 The novelty of using ingenuity and unconventional modes of transportation to get from point A to point B in subfreezing weather wore off quickly among the seven million riders who use the largest U.S. mass transit system every workday. The level of anger and See Transit, Page8 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 WWD.COM Federated Reorganizes Front Office WWDTHURSDAY By David Moin “Enhancing our company’s stores at Macy’s South. Sportswear already strong talent pool was a John T. Harper, the chairman NEW YORK — May Co. execu- key objective of the May acquisi- of Hecht’s/Strawbridge’s, will be- tives are marching into Macy’s. tion, and today’s announcements come vice chairman and director Marc Jacobs started with “Belle de Jour,” then referenced myriad retro On Wednesday, Federated De- are a clear indication that we of stores at Macy’s Midwest. Paul 4 moments from the Forties to the Eighties for Louis Vuitton cruise. partment Stores Inc., parent of have made great strides in that Goggin became senior vice presi- Macy’s and the new owner of May regard,” Terry J. Lundgren, dent of operations and logistics Department Stores, disclosed a Federated’s chairman, president at Macy’s Midwest after having GENERAL sweeping reorganization of senior and ceo, said in a statement served as senior vice president at As anger and frustration mounts, along with sale losses, there was intense management at Macy’s around Wednesday. Famous-Barr. 1 pressure for a settlement of the two-day New York City transit strike. the country. It involves top offi- “By retaining experienced ex- Previously announced was the Escada Group beat its financial goals for fiscal 2004-2005 by delivering cials from such former May divi- ecutives from the May Co. organ- leadership team at the new 2 robust profits on a moderate sales gain. sions as Marshall Field’s and ization and combining their Macy’s Midwest division, based in Foley’s, as well as reassignments skills with Federated’s existing St. Louis — William P. McNamara, Holiday cheer has spread slowly in Europe, where retailers are finally for Macy’s executives. division leadership, we will chairman and ceo, and Brian L. 9 reporting sales heating up, as shoppers seek deep discounts. Among the changes, Frank J. strengthen our Macy’s divisions Keck, president and chief operat- DENIM: Acne Jeans’ first store outside of Scandinavia is a collaboration Guzzetta, president and chief ex- as we grow to serve customers in ing officer. 10 with Berlin’s most conceptual retailer, Andreas Murkudis. ecutive officer of Marshall new geographic regions across The department store divi- BEAT: Guru, the $106 million Italian urban sportswear brand, wants to Field’s, will become chairman the country.” sions all report to Federated vice compete with the segment’s big global players. and ceo of Minneapolis-based Wednesday’s announcement chairman Susan D. Kronick. 11 Macy’s North. Also, Robert M. affects all Macy’s divisions except “The combination of viewpoints ACTIVE: Stephanie Hirsch and Stacy Deutsch have Inca on a growth track, Soroka will become president Macy’s East and Macy’s Florida. from Federated and May Co. will 12 expanded the Incagirl line and hope to open the first Inca store soon. and chief operating officer of Daniel H. Edelman will be- bring fresh ideas and additional Overcoming a devastating hurricane season and a dramatic increase in gas Macy’s North. Currently, he is come president and chief operat- energy to our Macy’s brand, 14 prices, the U.S. GDP grew at an annualized 4.1 percent in the third quarter. chairman of Field’s. ing officer of San Francisco- along with a continuing determi- The changes all go into effect based Macy’s West, succeeding nation to improve our offering,” EYE: Whether they’re packing for Aspen or Miami, the Bahamas or Mexico, Feb. 1 as the company converts Michael Osborne, who joined Kronick said. 16 the rich and famous know how to organize a fun vacation. May stores to Macy’s. The $17 bil- Macy’s Home Store in August. Macy’s Home Store, the New Classified Advertisements...... 15 lion merger was completed in Currently, Edelman is chairman Yo rk-based central merchandis- August and catapults Federated and ceo of Macy’s Northwest in ing arm feeding Macy’s divisions To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is into an 800-unit department Seattle. Robert Mettler remains with home goods, also tapped [email protected], using the individual’s name. store giant operating Macy’s and as ceo of Macy’s West. Jeffrey A. Kantor as furniture WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 Bloomingdale’s. Jeff Gennette will become president, a new post. Currently, FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 190, NO. 133. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one “Over the next 60 days, there chairman and ceo of Macy’s Kantor is president and ceo at additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional will be hundreds of appoint- Northwest. Currently, he is ex- Hecht’s/Strawbridge’s in Arling- issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. ments” involving May managers ecutive vice president and di- ton, Va. Home goods sales have Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, joining Macy’s and Macy’s exec- rector of stores at Atlanta-based been soft recently, but Federated Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice utives moving from one division Macy’s Central, which becomes vice chairman Janet E. Grove, to President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice to another, said Federated Macy’s South early next year. whom Macy’s Home Store re- Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. spokesman Jim Sluzewski. Robert B. Harrison, currently ports, said, “We look forward to Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: “There are still conversations chairman of Robinsons-May in strengthening our big-ticket DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box happening and offers being Los Angeles, will become presi- home business in the seasons 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE made,” he said. Sluzewski added dent and chief operating officer ahead with furniture that re- INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as that no job losses result from of Macy’s Northwest. flects the lifestyles of our core printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one this round of executive changes, Andrew P. Pickman will be- customers.” year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one although 6,200 jobs at May’s cor- come president and chief mer- Federated also said its for- year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For porate headquarters eventually chandising officer of Macy’s malwear group purchased Mr. permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: will be eliminated, as reported. South. Currently, he is president Tux, which operates a total of 40 www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Federated also expects to start and ceo of Foley’s in Houston. Mr. Tux and Squire Tux stores interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at announcing store divestitures Michael G. Krauter, president in New England. The formal- P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. early next year. Eighty stores are and chief merchandising officer wear group includes David’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND on the selling block, leaving the of Macy’s Central, will become Bridal, After Hours Formalwear TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART retailer with about 800. vice chairman and director of and Priscilla of Boston. WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Escada’s Annual Profits Soar In Brief By Melissa Drier remain “difficult,” but character- vestments being made for the ● ARMANI PROMOTES BROWN: has promoted BERLIN — Escada Group beat ized growth in Eastern Europe as spring and summer 2007 season. Caroline Brown to U.S. senior vice president of marketing and its financial goals for fiscal “dynamic,” and its business in He said an upturn in Escada’s ac- communications. She oversees all areas of the newly created U.S. 2004-2005 by delivering robust Asia developing positively. cessories sales is not to be ex- Communications Group, which consists of public relations, ad- profits on a moderate sales gain. Regarding Escada brand sales pected before fiscal 2006-2007. vertising, retail marketing, wholesale marketing and co-op adver- The German fashion house re- for the year, Escada Collection For the year ahead, Ley said tising. Most recently Brown was senior vice president of market- leased preliminary figures on and Escada Sport grew 5.8 per- he’s “convinced that the current ing. Brown continues to report to Robert Triefus, executive vice Wednesday, that showed aftertax cent to 436.5 million euros, or fiscal year 2005-2006 will be a president of worldwide communications in Milan, and Gaetano profits more than tripling to 14 $549 million, while pretax earn- successful one for Escada,” one Sallorenzo, president of sales and marketing U.S., in New York. million euros, or $17.6 million, in ings climbed 31 percent to 46.6 “based on sustained, profitable the year ended Oct. 31 from 4.5 million euros, or $58.6 million. growth.” Due to a higher level of ● PRATT TO FETE DVF: Diane von Furstenberg will take home million euros, or $5.5 million, in The Group’s Primera division, incoming orders, Escada is fore- Pratt Institute’s 2006 honoree award at the school’s annual fash- the previous year. Group sales for which includes Apriori, BIBA, casting a “good, single-digit gain” ion show on May 10 at the Manhattan Center. “Diane von the year gained 3.7 percent to Cavita and Laurèl, recorded a 2.8 in group sales, Ley said, and an Furstenberg is an icon in the fashion industry and an inspiration 648.6 million euros, or $815.8 mil- percent sales gain to 211.5 million “overproportional increase” in to fashion design students around the world,” said Pratt’s presi- lion. When adjusted for currency euros, or $266 million, as pretax the group’s earnings. dent, Thomas F. Schutte. Von Furstenberg had sold more than effects, sales showed an increase earnings jumped 37.6 percent to Ley said he expects Escada five million of her signature wrap , and her collection is of 4.3 percent. 18.3 million euros, or $23 million. sales in the U.S. to increase be- sold in more than 50 countries. Earlier this year, she picked up Dollar figures are at the aver- The Group said the Escada li- tween 8 and 10 percent in euros the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion age exchange rate. censes business, particularly for fiscal 2005-2006. While whole- Designers. “I am honored to be part of such a special event. To “We have begun a phase of Escada fragrances, also achieved sale prices in the U.S. rose about be surrounded by such young talent and to support their growth profitable growth,” said Escada good results. License revenue was 10 percent due to the weak dollar has always been important to me,” said von Furstenberg. chief executive officer Wolfgang up about 34 percent for the year. this past year, Ley said Escada Ley during a conference call. One weak area was the Es- would hold prices at current lev- He said in spite of a weaker dol- cada accessories business, which els for the fall-winter 2006 season. lar, sales in the U.S., which cur- is currently being reorganized. Finalized sales and earnings rently generate more than 20 The name of the business unit’s figures will be released at the News In Real Time percent of group sales, were up new Italian director will be dis- annual financial press confer- 10 percent in dollars. But when closed in January. Ley said the ence at the beginning of March. Get instant access to everything you need to know about the fashion converted into euros, U.S. sales current focus is on improving the The company, which last paid and retailing business. WWD.com is the gateway to the WWD were slightly below last year. quality, delivery and design of out a dividend in fiscal 2001- Archive, more than 80,000 stories dating back to 1994. For more Ley said Germany and neigh- Escada shoes, bags and small 2002, plans to again pay a divi- information, visit wwd.com. boring markets, including France, leather goods, with structural in- dend for fiscal 2004-2005. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 3 WWD.COM

ONWARD AND UPWARD: Unlike many who have been using the transit strike as an opportunity to down, Dominick Dunne was looking natty as ever Tuesday night. Scanning the Lexington Fashion Scoops Avenue gridlock in search of his car service, the scribe in a jacket, tie and overcoat said he was off to an uptown dinner at BILL’S BARNEYS: Strike or no strike, people still have to eat, and Barbara Walters’ apartment where the main course would why not do it in style? On Wednesday, Bill Clinton dined at include watching her ABC special, “Heaven — Where Is It? Fred’s at Barneys New York on Madison Avenue with his How Do We Get There?” daughter, Chelsea, and were strategically seated at a table next Asked about the challenge of discussing something that to the one where Howard Socol, Barneys chairman, chief lacks a firsthand account, Dunne said: “I’m not saying executive officer and president, also was dining. Tory Burch was anything.” there, too, at another table at the restaurant that one observer As for more hellish earthly matters, the Vanity Fair writer eyed said was not hurting for customers, despite the transit strike. the standstill traffic and said: “This is a real pain in the ass.” “The restaurant was completely packed.” According to a different source, Clinton did more than just C&M’S NEW HIRE: Anne Fahey has a new gig. Fahey left her job eat. He and Chelsea perused a few departments, but it couldn’t as vice president of public relations at Cartier on Friday to join be learned if he actually bought anything. Barneys declined to C&M Media as a strategic partner in new business ventures comment, but the source said: “He’s not a regular at the store, and special projects. The departure confirmed a WWD report. but he is a big fan of men’s furnishings on the main floor. He’s Fahey had joined Cartier in April after 15 years at . She bought several ties there before.” will join C&M on Jan. 9 and work closely with co-founder Angela Mariani on enhancing the company’s client base, LEASE ON LIFE: Tanya Sarne has sold a controlling stake in her developing strategies and planning events. The two met more PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER British fashion label, Ghost, for a reported 5 million pounds, or Bill Clinton entering Barneys New York on Madison Avenue. than 10 years ago and casually started talking about a possible $8.7 million at current exchange. British retail entrepreneur Kevin collaboration five years ago, when Mariani’s then-partner, Pilar Stanford now will own 30 percent of the business and become founded in 1984, is best known for its fluid fabrics and Crespi, left the firm. “I have always wanted to work on different non-executive chairman, while a group of Icelandic investors, led feminine, unstructured shapes. designers, and on different projects and we are very like- by Arev Management, also will hold a 30 percent stake. Sarne will Stanford will be responsible for overseeing a planned rollout minded,” Fahey said. C&M clients include Roberto Cavalli, continue as managing director and director of design for Ghost, of Ghost stores, although Sarne could not confirm where the Brioni, Pomellato, Temple St. Clair, Fabergé, Garrard, and will reduce her share in the firm from 80 to 33 percent. new stores would be located. Ghost has four freestanding stores Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Vivre, Gilan, Cinzia Rocca, Miss Sixty “Ghost is a unique fashion label with a great deal of exciting — two in London, one in New York and one in Los Angeles. and Botkier handbags. “Anne will be exploring new directions potential,” said Stanford. “I am really looking forward to “I’m delighted,” said Sarne. “Retail isn’t my expertise; making for C&M, specifically new U.S. talent, non-profit, and working with Tanya to grow the label.” Ghost, which Sarne clothes is — this has renewed my enthusiasm for the business.” designers from emerging markets,” Mariani said. Lane Crawford Focuses on ‘Change’ With Hong Kong Unit By Vicki Rothrock “A Hong Kong customer is one of the most sophisticated in the world,” HONG KONG — Lane Crawford is deter- Riddiford said. “We feel they deserve a mined to create a retail experience that world-class experience in their own city.” engages its sophisticated customers. With its stores being revamped to The firm’s major store revamp here, cater to different tastes, Lane Crawford which carried the risk of alienating the hopes this will encourage people to trav- customer base, is evidence of that deter- el to all four of its stores in Hong Kong, mination. which, in the end, have the same “core Shoppers in Hong Kong filed into the DNA,” Riddiford said. renovated Lane Crawford at the Pacific The Canton Road store has the largest Place Mall with a mix of curiosity and selection of men’s wear compared with trepidation when the store opened last the other stores. With continuing mod- month after nine months of construction. ernizations, which include taking over The stakes were high, not only be- 15,000 square feet from a neighboring cause Lane Crawford has been in Hong hotel to expand the men’s wear section, it Kong as a retailer for 155 years, but also will eventually be the group’s largest because the company’s flagship at the store at between 70,000 and 90,000 IFC mall, which opened in 2004, set a square feet. A lingerie department will powerful precedent of art and experi- be added next spring or summer. ence in a retail space. Lane Crawford’s fourth store in Hong While different from IFC in its offer- Kong is still in development mode, as far as ings and vibe, the response to the 50,000- a remodel. The company plans to have a square-foot Lane Crawford in the Pacific Women’s wear at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. “breather for six months” and allow some Place Mall has been positive. Prada Jeans and Prada Red Stripe, which some pieces with edge. The selection in- time to measure how the store is doing and The flagship focuses on international are both new to the store. However, the cludes Tamara Comolli, Garrard and develop the strategy, Riddiford said. designerwear and has a large lingerie bulk of the offerings are new-generation Loree Rodkin. The timeline is to start planning the re- section, something of a novelty for high- designers — B-used, Kimori Morisita and The beauty section, which is still at development in June, work should begin end goods. Pacific Place, on the other Neil Barret, among others — and contem- one of the store’s entrances on the first in June 2007 and the project should be hand, now has a contemporary and casu- porary collections such as Acne Jeans, floor — possibly the only similarity to the completed in August 2007, he said. alwear focus with all the trappings of Deja ROI, Quentin & Claude and Lincoln old shop — is interactive so brands can Lane Crawford also is looking to ex- modernity: a CD bar with iPod sound sta- Mayne and Simeon Farrar, which are both be more accessible, said Susan Sams, pand its presence in China. It now has tions, an i-bar where customers can check exclusive. vice president of marketing and commu- three stores there: Shanghai, Harbin and e-mail and a dry-cleaning conveyer rack “Men by nature are not very adven- nications, adding that brands “are niche Hangzhou. The latter two are franchises. that allows a range of trainers to be seen turous, but I think men’s wear is chang- and younger — not Estée Lauder.” The company, which is privately owned as they rotate from an outside shop win- ing a lot,” Yabu said. “We have tried to Brands include Bobbi Brown, Helena and part of the Lane Crawford Joyce dow to inside the store, an inventive way push a modern, masculine, more gutsy Rubinstein, Fresh, La Mer and Laura Group, already has done a small renova- to show products with limited space. environment.” Mercier. tion at its Shanghai store. It is now 25,000 Within the store are modern technolog- For men’s shoes, which are in a cozy, The fragrance area consists of two square feet, with men’s wear and women’s ical installations. One, designed by Korean wood-floored space with a sunken metal- curved walls where perfumes are wear. It also has upgraded its offer of de- company Flur, projects an image onto a lic leather couch, the selection ranges arranged for customers to peruse. The signer labels there, Riddiford said. New wall or other surface, then responds like a from Adidas to John Lobb. store wanted to stay away from spraying brands include Stella McCartney, Jil morphing wave as people pass by. An offshoot of the shoe area is the test strips and pushing them onto cus- Sander and Helmut Lang. “One of the key elements of the store men’s Grooming Bar, which includes tomers as they walked past. In addition to that store, the intention is the behavioral technology,” said everything from shaving creams to skin Lane Crawford has made it clear with is to secure another flagship in Shanghai, George Yabu of design firm Yabu toners. Brands include Elemis for Men, IFC and the new Pacific Place store that he said. Opportunities also are being ex- Pushelberg, which conceptualized and Phyto and Kai. the retail experience it wants to create is plored in Beijing and Macau. designed the store, as well as the flag- For women’s wear and shoes, which just that: an experience. While many luxury retailers aggressive- ship. “What we are trying to convey is occupy the second level, along with jew- “Our job is to showcase the brands in ly have rushed to set up shops in China in that there is always change — not just in elry, the selection is in large part new to a very interesting space,” said president the past few years, Lane Crawford doesn’t the merchandise but in the experience of Lane Crawford. It includes Yves Saint David Riddiford, adding brands then are feel it needs to do that. shopping” at Lane Crawford. Laurent, Haider Ackermann, L.A.M.B. by allowed to do what they do. He declined After 155 years of existence, Lane On the first floor and spanning 15,391 Gwen Stefani, Blue Blood and denim to give any sales projections. Crawford doesn’t want to “do something square feet, men’s wear features some in- from Acne and Rag & Bone. One of the challenges Lane Crawford hasty,” he said, adding: “We’re a Chinese ternational designers such as Bottega Jewelry at Lane Crawford is moving faces is having a customer base that is ex- company; we have a cultural understand- Veneta and Martin Margiela, along with toward fine jewelry while still offering tremely well traveled and fashion savvy. ing of the Chinese market.” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 WWD.COM Belle Epoque A wool crepe skirt and PARIS — Marc Jacobs started with “Belle de Jour,” then referenced myriad cashmere top. retro moments for Louis Vuitton cruise, from the Forties to the Eighties.

▲ A cashmere cardigan, embroidered wool skirt and ebony, felt and sequin necklace and bracelet.

A silk crepe dress, cashmere turtleneck and patent leather belt.

▲ A wool coat and pants and silk mousseline blouse.

A fox-fur jacket and silk chiffon blouse and skirt. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY Access All The Day’s Fashion News Anytime, Anywhere!

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Looks from the new ad campaign. Dolce & Gabbana Gets Physical

By Alessandra Ilari known for his chiaroscuro, or light-dark effects and natu- day, and the women’s appeared in the January issues of ralistic paintings. international books. MILAN — Dolce & Gabbana’s new ads shot by Steven The idea behind the photos is that of a group of sculp- As for the women’s images, the designers ushered Meisel are an artsy take on male camaraderie and fe- tured men who hang out at the gym, in swimming trunks their sexy and glammed-out farm girls from their block- male complicity. or dressed up for a special occasion in a friendly atmos- buster runway show into a hayloft, filled with chickens Especially with the men’s images, the designers took phere. “It’s about individuality, but with a team spirit, and goats. Most of the frames are filled with a gaggle of a new route by reinterpreting the lighting, colors and like the one you can find in a gym’s changing room,” rumpled-haired models, sprawled out on haystacks, innuendo of Caravaggio’s paintings. Gabbana said. rolled over in wheelbarrows or tugging at a rope, all “This is a big change for us,’’ Stefano Gabbana told Caravaggio works that the duo and Meisel trans- decked out in frills, flounces, lace, gingham and . WWD. “Caravaggio is one of my favorite painters. I dis- ported from the late Renaissance into contemporary “Yet again, it’s about about female connivance like cussed his work at my high school exams and I recently fashion include “The Martyrdom of St. Matthew,” the ones between girls resting after a hard day’s work went to an exhibition here in Milan. His is a static phys- “The Conversion of St. Paul,” and “Cupid and the day or when during World War II, they teamed up to take icality based on a voyeuristic edge, rather than pumped- Cardsharps.” on the hard jobs because the men were at war,” said up muscles.” Both campaigns were shot at New York’s Pier 59 stu- Gabbana. “They know they are strong and powerful. An Italian Baroque painter, Caravaggio was best dios. The men’s images will break in GQ on Christmas That’s the message.” Sharapova Serves for Tag Heuer By Marcy Medina new print ad campaign, featuring Thurman, is planned for 2006, featuring CULVER CITY, Calif. — Tennis ace photographs by Louis Vuitton regulars Maria Sharapova had a confession to Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who shot make, sort of. the actress for Vuitton’s accessories ads. “I’m an accessories junkie and I love Continuing its “What Are You Made diamonds,” she said. Of?” theme, which debuted in January Clad in designer duds and diamond with print ads shot by Patrick De- watches, Sharapova was at the Sony marchelier, the new print ad campaign Studios here, where she was the off- with Sharapova, slated for fashion and court attraction at a photo shoot for Tag lifestyle magazines, aims to lure sports Heuer’s upcoming April ad campaign. watch fans into purchasing women’s lux- The session, shot last Sunday by ury timepieces by portraying the glam Swiss photographer Joel von Allmen, athlete clad in clothes from Christian was one stop en route to Japan, where to Dolce & Gabbana and Marc Sharapova is to join the women’s tennis Jacobs, among others. tour and make a personal appearance at In addition to Tag’s sporty designs, her Tokyo hotel on behalf of Tag Heuer. Sharapova wears the F1 Diamonds Amid the pulsing tones of Duran watch, a pink number that retails for ness; now it’s 20 percent,” Huron added. Duran’s “Girls on Film” and lightning- $1,900 — a style she also helped to design. To that end, the company has design- quick wardrobe changes, aided by “Designing is something I’ve wanted to do ed several larger women’s watches, celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe, the 6-foot, 2- for a long time,” Sharapova said. which it plans to push harder at retail, inch Sharapova posed like a pro, even “When we began to reposition the line along with its female-friendly men’s asking, “Are you getting the watch in this two years ago, we realized two things: We watches like the Monaco and the Car- shot?” without skipping a beat. had been ignoring the women’s market rera — one of Sharapova’s favorites. In its quest to fuse fashion, sports and and men were purchasing watches for As she packed up her pink Prince ten- luxury, Tag Heuer, owned by LVMH Moët women in bigger sizes,” said Livia nis bag and headed for her waiting limo Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has signed styl- Marotta, Tag Heuer’s corporate communi- after the shoot, Sharapova said, “I’ve KENNETH KRAUSS PHOTOS BY ish athletes and entertainers to endorse cations director, who attended the shoot worn a Carrera forever, but now that I’ve Above, from left: Maria Sharapova in Dolce the luxe brand, including Uma Thurman, with Thierry Huron, the brand’s world- had a chance to help design my own & Gabbana and Tag Heuer’s Aquaracer watch, Tiger Woods and NASCAR racer Jeff wide marketing director. “Ten years ago, watch, I also wanted to have something and in Christian Dior and Tag Heuer’s Link Gordon, as well as Sharapova. Another women made up 5 percent of our busi- pink and, of course, bling.” Chronograph watch. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 7 WWD.COM IT Holding’s New Concept: A Big Addition

By Luisa Zargani The Plus IT ber of models to be shown. boutique in Milan. “It’s a new, unusual display — an al- MILAN — IT Holding is banking on si- ternative to the more classic shelves multaneous temptation. presentation,” Della Rocca said. With the introduction of a new concept The executive said the Plus IT logo, store, Plus IT, the company will be able to +IT followed by a red dot, is “recogniza- offer all the branded accessories it pro- ble, immediate and direct. The concept duces under the same roof, from the Just store comprises multiple and different Cavalli pleated and belted mustard offers, from sneakers to luxury, from leather totes to nylon and leather GF ready-to-wear to glamorous fashion. In Ferré bags, C’N’C National short, a new lifestyle concept.” sneakers and studded Extè pumps. Della Rocca said this product mix guar- The Italian company, which owns the antees constant and balanced sales, with Gianfranco Ferré brand, unveiled its first some items growing at Christmas and oth- Plus IT boutique in Milan last month after ers at the change of season, for example. openings earlier in the fall in Paris; This multibrand format also allows Warsaw; Casablanca, Morocco, and Mos- better merchandise control. Massimo cow. IT Holding is pushing the accelerator Ferretti, who with his sister, Alberta, on building a retail network, with 30 bou- owns Aeffe, said, “This concept was cre- tiques under way in countries ranging from ated with the purpose of monitoring sell- Spain and Greece to South Arabia. outs and market trends. It’s an immedi- “Our goal is to open a total of 300 in ate reference.” the next three years,” said Massimo The multibrand concept also allows Della Rocca, sales manager at Ittierre fordable prices.” are franchised. the fashion house to convey a strong mes- Accessories SpA, which is controlled by Previous examples of this same con- “This is a tremendous franchising op- sage. Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle be- IT Holding. “We’ve already signed 130 cept, but confined to the European mar- portunity, as the spaces require a mini- lieves “the strength of the project lies in agreements.” ket, include the Dev stores, which carry mum of 540 square feet and there are a offering a complete range of merchan- By the end of the year, a Plus IT store all brands produced by Tod’s Group, and lot of such spaces available,” Della dise and brands in a luxury concept that will open in Dubai and, early next year, the P-Box boutiques, which carry acces- Rocca said. reflects the philosophy of Tod’s Group.” in Rome, Moscow, Athens and Paris at sories by Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, The decor is minimal to better offset Dev carries the Tod’s, Hogan, Fay and Galeries Lafayette. Narciso Rodriguez and Pollini, all pro- the products. However, silver or black Acqua di Parma labels. “A market request triggered this proj- duced by Aeffe. wood frames encase the accessories. In “I think this is a winning idea and a ect,’’ Della Rocca said. “There is a huge While the Milan Plus IT store located the Middle East, the wood frame is gold- valid alternative to our [single-]brand demand for accessories. In particular, on Via Manzoni, a few steps from Giorgio en. Also, a white lacquered wall with stores,” Ferretti said. “Customers are cu- these are very competitive accessories, Armani’s Emporio megastore, is compa- magnets displays sneakers that look sus- rious and eclectic and want to be able to as they are designer-branded at more af- ny owned, most of the Plus IT boutiques pended in air, which allows a larger num- compare designs and styles.”

TYPE A-OK: ● On dressing to impress: “Clare McHugh, now a Apparently editing special projects editor at In Style magazine, wore a Fini Named A. Testoni CEO some of the voluminous navy and white sailor dress with a bib collar MEMO PAD country’s biggest to an interview with me at Marie Claire. I knew she was NEW YORK — A. Testoni SpA, the luxury leather goods firm, is women’s magazines very pregnant, but I didn’t expect to see the Queen once again a family affair. hasn’t given Bonnie Fuller enough of a platform. Drawing Mary in my office.” Carlo Fini, first-born son of the Fini-Testoni family, which has on her experiences at Star, Glamour, Cosmopolitan and ● On Star’s journalistic standards: “We have a high owned the company since its founding in 1929 by Amedeo elsewhere, she now has written the definitive guide to bar to get over before we can print a story. We have to Testoni, has been named chief executive officer. living the…fuller life. Succinctly titled “The Joys of make sure it’s true.” (The occasional celebrity “bump” The appointment marks the end of a three-year period in which Much Too Much: Go for the Big Life — The Great notwithstanding, presumably.) the leadership of A. Testoni has been in the hands of executives Career, The Perfect Guy, and Everything Else You’ve Ever Fuller said she didn’t know how many copies hired from outside the family, including Arrigo Berni, who left Wanted (Even If You’re Afraid You Don’t Have What It Simon & Schuster planned to print. “I don’t think any Bulgari in 2002 to become ceo and whose contract has expired. Takes),” it will be published in April by Simon and philosophy is right for every woman,” she said. “But I Fini, 50, who began working in marketing at A. Testoni in 1972 Schuster. WWD got an advance look. feel it’s right for a lot of women.” —Jeff Bercovici and served most recently in an ambassadorial role as vice presi- With chapter titles such as “The Good Side of dent, has been working behind the scenes to streamline its five Repression” and “Don’t Inner-Fixate,” the book is a HOLIDAY PUNCH: Now that so many Time Inc. manufacturing facilities located in and around the company mélange of common sense (“Check for spinach in the employees are getting new bosses, it’s only fair that headquarters in Bologna, Italy. teeth before leaving [a] restaurant”), pragmatic Ann Moore have one, too. “I worked to make sure the old manufacturing system was up- antifeminism (“Don’t talk much about pregnancy in the As of Jan. 1, Time Inc.’s chairman and chief dated, not in technology but methodology,” Fini said in an inter- office, period”) and Type-A rationalization (“As far as I’m executive officer will report to Jeff Bewkes, who was view. “I wanted there to be a system of production in place that concerned, hobbies are overrated”). Its central thesis: promoted to president and chief operating officer of would enable us to have more power in production capacity and Women settle for mediocre lives in a misguided quest for Time Warner on Wednesday. Bewkes will continue to run pricing, with the intention of offering our wholesale distributors “balance.” The key to happiness is feeling overwhelmed. the company’s film and television divisions and also will better service in terms of delivery time and quantities.” “I felt that a lot of the messages that women get assume control over the publishing, online and cable Fini said boosting A. Testoni’s wholesale presence, especially in today are that they can’t do it all, that they have to give groups formerly overseen by Don Logan, who is retiring at the U.S., where it is distributed by Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Av- up certain parts of their lives in order to have the other the end of the year. enue, Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom, will be his top priority. parts,” Fuller told WWD. “I don’t think women should As Bewkes and Moore continue to look at how to “The wholesale business was already quite OK for us, but because sell themselves short.” As for whether there’s not make Time Inc. more efficient, and John Huey officially of production, even though the desire was there, we were not able to something retrograde about coaching women to snare becomes its editor in chief, there are likely to be more meet it,” Fini said. “Now we are in a totally different position.” “the perfect man,” she said: “I would definitely cuts on the business and editorial sides of the company Fini said the firm has four retail boutiques in the U.S. — in characterize myself as a feminist.” in the months to come. Time Inc. insiders said there are New York, Honolulu, Las Vegas and Palm Beach, Fla. The units Fittingly, the woman who showed the world Britney a significant number of voluntary buyout offers in New York and Honolulu will close Feb. 1 as the company looks Spears’ acne and Katie Holmes’ cold sores is generous outstanding, and more involuntary layoffs are on the for bigger spaces. with details that some readers may consider too much way. One top editor even got the impression that an Even with these spaces, Fini said wholesale is a more viable information. For instance, here’s Fuller on why she and entire magazine or magazines could be folding. “I was option for the brand in this country because of the high cost of her husband had trouble conceiving their third child: told that every single entity is being looked at hard to real estate. The firm will be pursuing a similar strategy in South “Who knew that after years of bicycle riding, Michael evaluate it as a business, and to expect ‘big-picture America, Europe, the Middle East and Africa. In Asia, where A. had developed something called varicoceles: varicose kinds of layoffs,’” said the editor. Testoni has 47 boutiques and a strong retail business, it will con- veins in a man’s key areas?” (We do now, thanks.) “Everybody’s sort of walking down the hall looking tinue to focus efforts to expand its store network. Some other highlights: over their shoulders,” said another company veteran. A. Testoni, which has bolstered its presence in the women’s mar- ● Bonnie on magazines such as Real Simple: As for the 105 people let go last week, Time Inc. ket over the last five years with the introduction of A. Testoni Femme “Simplifying down to the most precious objects and seems to have gone against its own advice by laying and key products like its signature Turtle bag, had 15 percent growth actions will result in sterility, which is the road to off people during the holidays. According to several worldwide in the last year, bringing the company’s revenues up to 36 spiritual ruin and mental rigor mortis.” longtime employees, managers used to get letters million euros or about $43 million at current exchange. ● On getting fired from Glamour after seeking the from the company’s human resources department “Three years ago when we looked at our competitors, there editorship of Harper’s Bazaar: “Looking back, I see every fall, advising them to either make staff changes was no one among our competitors who still had a family compa- that I may have been disloyal….But I allowed myself before Thanksgiving or wait until after the new year. A ny,” said Fini. “Most were owned by luxury conglomerates, so to to be swept up in the excitement of a dream job.” spokeswoman denied there was ever an official fight, we were obliged to play the same game. For us, this meant ● On her reputation: “I don’t consider myself rude, policy, however, saying: “We’ve always hoped to avoid moving from a family concept to an outside management concept. but I am rather straightforward….Sometimes I just letting people go around the holidays. It’s We made the correct choice and now, in fact, the company has a don’t have time, for instance, to ask my staff how their unfortunate, but we weren’t ready to do anything good team that is in place and is working.” weekend was. Sometimes people perceive me to be before Thanksgiving, and the fiscal year does end — Jennifer Hirshlag cold or uncaring because I don’t indulge in chitchat.” Dec. 31.” — Sara James and J.B. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 Transit Strike Toll Wors

Continued from page one frustration was rising palpably just days before Christmas and Hanukkah. There was an air of urgency as evidenced by Saks Fifth Avenue’s decision to launch its post-Christmas sale on Wednesday, offering 40 percent off, earlier than previ- ous years when it began on the day after Christmas. Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief executive officer, Michael Gould, said the drop in business at the 59th Street flagship in Manhattan won’t get made up by Bloomingdale’s suburban stores. He characterized Foot traffic near Barneys New York Tuesday as “a difficult day,” and said Wednesday was on Madison Avenue was sparse. not as busy as normal. Bloomingdale’s closed at 8:30 p.m. Tuesday, an hour and a half earlier than scheduled to accommodate sales associates making the arduous trek home. The growing despair crossed from major department stores on the East Side and in Midtown to lower Manhattan, where even the street vendors of Canal Street weren’t doing much business on knockoffs. “Retail is taking the lion’s share of the hit,” said Kathryn Wylde, president and ceo of the Partnership for New York City, a consortium of 200 top companies. She es- timated that stores are losing $60 million per day in sales. The empty sidewalk in front “Retail seems to be suffering even more today than of Bergdorf Goodman. yesterday based on a formal survey of our partners,” Wylde said Wednesday. “Because the commute is two or William C. Thompson Jr. said New York could lose about when they break 40 percent off, people mob up and you three times longer than usual, any discretionary time $1.6 billion during the first week of the strike, a figure can’t find enough sales help. Now you have more sales- people had to shop is gone. For people on a budget, any that factors in decreased output from reduced work- people than you do customers.” discretionary money is uncertain because they’re forces and productivity, tax losses, overtime losses and In addition to Saks, Wall Street analysts and econo- spending so much more to get to work. It’s the worst retail losses. For December, the city had projected col- mists said the strike would have a concentrated impact possible scenario for the shopping season.” lecting $466 million in retail sales tax, without the strike. on just a few of the publicly traded retailers, including The developments came as Roger Toussaint, the Craig R. Johnson, president of Customer Growth Federated Department Stores Inc., which owns Macy’s leader of Transport Workers Union Local 100, which Partners, said for almost all of the leading chains and and Bloomingdale’s. called the strike at 3 a.m. Tuesday, said at a news con- major publicly held retailers, the percentage of sales Deborah Weinswig, equity analyst at Citigroup, said in ference that he met with a state mediator and his mem- the New York City market represents is in the single a research note that the “strike will have a significant im- bers might return to the negotiating table if the digits with the exception of Saks, whose Fifth Avenue pact on Saks Inc.” and “a modest impact on Federated,” Metropolitan Transportation Authority took its pension flagship accounts for more than 25 percent of the Saks and added that she does not “anticipate an impact to re- contribution plan off the table. Fifth Avenue division’s sales. tailers in the broader New York-metropolitan area.” The 33,700-member union is facing a $1 million-a-day At the Saks flagship late Wednesday afternoon, the However, with only a few shopping days remaining fine for violating a state law that prohibits strikes by main floor appeared fairly busy with customers going before Christmas, each day the strike continues could public employees, and individual workers are to be through the scarves, accessories and handbags that have an increased effect, she added. docked two days pay for each day of the walkout. State were marked down 40 percent. The store was a sea of “It is a big number for the big Manhattan department Supreme Court Justice Theodore Jones ordered markdowns. stores, but for all those little coffee shops, restaurants Toussaint to appear in court on Thursday. He could be Store managers were privately meeting with salespeo- and small retail people, it’s devastating to them,” said a sentenced to jail. ple and going over schedules and commuting options. top retail executive, who asked not to be identified. Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Gov. George Pataki One manager told a group of salespeople that instead of Herald Square, the home of Macy’s flagship and one reiterated that talks should not resume until transit em- providing a shuttle, as some stores have been doing, of the city’s busiest shopping districts, was a shadow of ployees return to work. Bloomberg said the strike was “We’re giving employees money. Please tell your team.” its usually bustling self on Wednesday. “You could see responsible for a 40 percent decline in business at While the fine jewelry area and many of the second- that the pedestrian flow was about 50 percent of what it restaurants, an 80 percent decrease in visitors at muse- floor designer boutiques, such as Piazza Sempione, normally would be the week before Christmas,” said ums, and a 90 percent drop-off in customers at the Giorgio Armani, Collection, Burberry, Max Dan Pisark, director of retail services at the 34th Street Fulton Mall in Brooklyn. Mara, and Donna Karan were extremely Partnership. “There’s usually 6,000 to 7,000 people an Bloomberg said, “I never thought that putting some- quiet, there was more activity on the floor. hour passing here. It was easily half of that.” one in jail and making them a martyr would help.” “It could be a lot busier,” said Johnny Petriello, a A.G. Edwards retail analyst Bob Buchanan, in a re- The economic ramifications of the first subway and salesman in the designer shoe salon. “We went 40 per- search report Wednesday, said, “Worst-case scenario, as- bus strike in 25 years are far-reaching. The New York cent off today on shoes already on sale. But the transit suming the subway strike could last through Christmas City Economic Development Corp. put the total loss at strike has certainly hurt our business. We would have day, we do see exposure to December same-store sales. $440 million to $600 million daily. City Comptroller had much more business. I’ve been here four years and We believe Federated’s three large properties in On the Run: Gloom Pervades City’s Normally Bustling Trade By Rosemary Feitelberg down coats and fur-trimmed styles. “This is more about function so I’m not going to be so picky,” one woman said. NEW YORK — The man dressed as Mrs. Claus and ringing a bell outside New York in In SoHo, at Pearl River Trading, president Ching Yeh Chen said the tourists and day-trippers lower Manhattan Wednesday afternoon was in the holiday spirit, but other downtown retailers and are nowhere to be found. “There’s nothing much we can do,” she sighed, adding that the retailer shoppers weren’t sharing his glee. was closing early to ease the arduous commutes of staffers. Once the doors are closed for the Even several of the Canal Street knockoff kings who normally are on their feet aggressively day, about 20 workers jump on one of Pearl River’s delivery trucks to catch a ride to its Brooklyn vying for customers sat slumped in their stalls, looking glum. Surrounded by Chloé, Birkin and warehouse, where many pick up their cars and drive home. Balenciaga copycats, one vendor said, “Nobody’s coming. It’s ruined the holidays.” “We have to give them enough time to go home,’’ Chen said. “It’s dark and cold.” That sentiment came across loud and clear during a run from Midtown to lower Manhattan The strike didn’t deter some SoHo stores such as Old Navy, Atrium and the coincidentally — one of the better ways to beat the gridlock during the transit strike. While the pair of Adidas named Transit from staying open. Buying a pair of camouflage cargo pants at Old Navy’s lower sneakers were a given, a white Bogner vest proved to be an essential safety feature, while Broadway store during her lunch break, Rosemarie Falotico, manager at La Perla’s nearby outpost, dodging cyclists, pedicabs and aggravated drivers determined not to acknowledge red lights. explained, “They’re good commuting clothes. I’m walking back and forth from Brooklyn.” At Century 21, signs on the front door notified shoppers that the store “could be subject to an In a few downtown stores like Bloomingdale’s, Scoop, Banana Republic, American Eagle early closing” because of the strike. In the women’s department, one sales associate said her Outfitters, Club Monaco and H&M’s two outposts, salespeople outnumbered shoppers. morning commute lasted for three hours even though the company has hired private buses to While shopping at H&M, Tina Salerno reveled in the retail solitude, saying, “It’s kind of nice, shuttle its employees. actually.” Others suffered fatigue of another kind. Two tourists from London, Sally Garland and her In Union Square Park, the Farmer’s Market drew a crowd, but Paragon Sporting Goods was calm. daughter, Lauren, headed for the escalator after checking out some Marc by Marc Jacobs jackets. Visitors to Anthropologie’s store at 85 Fifth Avenue were greeted with racks of velvet jackets, “We walked from our hotel on 58th Street downtown for a helicopter ride,’’ Sally Garland said. “We’re dainty sweaters, peasant and tops — all on sale. Meghan O’Reagan, a teacher who works normally shopaholics, but we’re so tired from that walk. This trip has been very hard on our feet.” nearby, said she stopped in on her way home from work. She said she would probably buy Nearby, in the coat department, shoppers who now find themselves walking to work eyed long something since “a lot of stuff is on sale. Probably because nobody is shopping.” WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 9 WWD.COM Markdowns Heat Up Euro Retail

By Robert Murphy sens on Day 2 PARIS — Holiday cheer has spread slowly on the Continent this year, but retailers in Europe finally are reporting some yuletide sales heat as frantic shoppers crowd stores in search of deep discounts. Department stores such as Printemps and Galeries Lafayette here have 50 percent sales on many items, with similar discounts on clothes and accessories across France and elsewhere in Europe. Yet retailers said customers still anticipate — and appear ready to wait for — even greater savings, making the last-minute dash particularly nerve-wracking. “Shoppers want to wait until the last moment to take advantage of discounts,’’ said Institut Francais de la Mode in a trading update on Tuesday. The first two weeks of the month were particularly “calm’’ for retailers here, IFM added. Apparel sales across the Continent have been lackluster, suffering early this fall from unusually warm weather. The economy across most of the 25- member European Union has disappointed this year, with consumer spending A lonely Salvation Army volunteer at Bloomingdale’s. down and worry widespread about the future. Sales of women’s ready-to-wear in France, for example, fell 10 percent in November, according to IFM. In England, analysts at Lehman Bros. said the “recent cold snap has boosted sales and may have allowed retailers who overbought to clear some excess stock.’’ British retailers reported better traffic last week. Footfall, a retail monitor, said 7.7 percent more shoppers went out last week compared with the previous week — though those numbers still were down 4.2 percent versus last year. Some retailers are in better situations than others. Lehman said Britain’s Marks & looked well positioned to “continue to trade well’’ with a focus on full-price sales. Fast-fashion firms such as Hennes & Mauritz of Sweden and Spain’s PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Inditex, which runs Zara, also are thought by retail analysts to be Manhattan — Macy’s Herald Square, traffic appeared slower in the morning, though outperforming competitors. Bloomingdale’s at 59th Street and Lexington she expected it to build as the day progressed. And luxury remains a bright spot, too. Avenue, and Lord & Taylor at 39th and Fifth At Olive and Bette’s, business on the first day At London’s upmarket fashion emporium Harvey Nichols, buyer Coco Avenue — represent 5 percent to 6 percent of was down 9 percent in same-store sales and units Chan said numbers have increased steadily. Federated’s total sales. In the worst-case scenario, per transaction declined, owner Stacey Pecor “This has been a very strong season for us,’’ she said, adding that brands we believe Federated’s comps could be hurt 1 per- said. “The biggest problem is getting sales associ- such as Chloé, Dries Van Noten and Alexander McQueen have done best. cent to 2 percent in December. ates to their stores,” she added. The company, Chan said outerwear made a sharp upturn at the store in recent weeks, “We assume Saks’ flagship does about $500 which has four locations in Manhattan, is reim- as colder weather had taken hold. The store does not introduce markdowns million in sales, representing 12 percent of the bursing employees for travel expenses. Another until after Christmas, and Chan said that recent deliveries of spring- company total,” he added. “Saks’ December issue has been getting merchandise to and from summer collections had boosted sales. comps could be adversely impacted by 3 percent the stores, especially the Madison Avenue loca- Christine Samain, fashion director at Paris’ Bon Marché, run by LVMH by the strike, assuming the worst-case scenario of tion, because the street is closed except to emer- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said the upscale store had “excellent’’ first the strike lasting through Christmas day. Build-A- gency vehicles. week December sales and that momentum continued to be brisk. Bear, which just opened a flagship at 46th Street The company operates a store on Madison “Since mid-November, when the weather turned cold, we’ve been doing and Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, could see its Avenue and 53rd Street and another at extremely well,’’ she said. Cashmere sweaters, cocktail dresses from Chloé comps fall 1 percent due to the strike. Rockefeller Center. “It seems like all of uptown is and Diane von Furstenberg and high-end accessories performed best. Abercrombie & Fitch, which just opened a flag- quiet. Rockefeller Center had a good day on “Our position is excellent,’’ she said. “We’ve been selling without markdowns.’’ ship in Midtown and also operates two other Tuesday, but again, not what it should be the week Not everyone is as upbeat. Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager stores in Manhattan, would be hurt by less than 1 before Christmas. They couldn’t have picked a at Printemps, said the PPR-owned store only recently felt an uptick. percent in December.” worse time for a strike.” Last weekend, sales increased 17 percent Saturday and 19 percent on The aisles throughout Macy’s main floor were Standing in the cluttered Think Pink lingerie Sunday compared with the same days last year, he said. relatively quiet. The watches and jewelry depart- shop at Grand Central Terminal, Radka “Christmas is starting later than usual,’’ he said. “It’s slower. People ments were buzzing the most, but the handbag, Dobrinksa, manager, said, “People are just not in are spending less. They are buying gifts for fewer people.’’ fragrance and beauty counters lacked the usual the mood to shop. The strike is starting to get on “The gifts people are buying are smaller, and more creative,’’ he said, throngs of holiday shoppers. people’s nerves.” citing candles, jewelry or wallets engraved with initials. Customers at Macy’s were mostly tourists and Indeed, nerves were beginning to fray and pa- Charbit said the store had seen a “significant’’ increase in gift certificate area workers. “We are absolutely shopping for the tience for inconveniences such as long lines at sales and that the best-selling expensive items were jewelry and watches. holidays and for gifts,” said Jaime Zoller, who works banks because of fewer tellers and longer-than- Clothing sales are slow, he said, and deep discounts are in full swing. in advertising nearby. “It’s usually much busier in usual lines to purchase tickets for Metro North Elsewhere in Europe, signs are mixed, with most reporting slow the stores around here so we’re taking advantage.” and the Long Island Rail Road was wearing thin. clothing sales, but stronger numbers in electronics and luxury accessories. Conn Lynam, who was visiting from Ireland, Some restaurants didn’t received food deliveries In Germany, department store chain Karstadt reported a strong yule was thrilled to be in the midst of the strike excite- and had nothing to serve customers on start, with sales in the first week of December gaining 13 percent, said the ment. “It’s grand,” he said. “We’re getting a bit of Wednesday morning. group’s chairman, Thomas Middelhoff. exercise and we are shopping a lot.” He said the Modell’s Sporting Goods on Wednesday said A Karstadt spokesman said sales since have been “pleasing’’ and “in younger members of his family walked downtown sales would be down 60 percent, revising an esti- line’’ with plan, suggesting similar double digit gains would continue. to Century 21 from their Midtown hotel. mate on Tuesday of 25 to 50 percent. Last weekend’s business was strong, he said, with solid sales of regular- Other stores along 34th Street were close to Many stores were forced to close early because priced goods. Electronics and toys sold best, with shoppers paying premiums desolate. Banana Republic, H&M and Gap had few employees were anxious to get home. for the latest technology in game consoles, cameras and MP3 players. patrons, while stores like Express, Zara and Steve Banana Republic on West 34th Street originally Apparel has been mixed, with scarves, gloves and coats recently accelerating Madden were near empty, save for employees. planned to close at 11 p.m. on Wednesday, but the with the arrival of colder weather. Winter sports apparel sales are solid, while “We have sales associates that can’t get in,” store revised that to 7 p.m., said Mike Feder, di- beauty had a “good’’ start of the month, but has tapered off some since. said Express store manager Nancy Smith. “It’s rector of the 34th Street Partnership’s Savvy In Italy, consumers continue to be weighed down by their low spending still holiday [but there] isn’t a lot of traffic.” Stores program, who visited 10 retailers, includ- power, a product of the slow economy. Generally, they are opting for useful “Our sales were down 35 percent [on ing Bakers, Express, Lane Bryant, Dr. Jay’s, Ann products, or books and CDs. But, conversely, luxury isn’t suffering. Tuesday,]” said Bakers store manager Isnel Taylor Loft, Foot Locker and Diamonds & Dials. Stores reported strong accessories sales, especially luxury shoes and Sanon. “We’re losing people from the Bronx. “We found that every store has some modifica- bags, but weaker sales of apparel. Those are our best customers.” Sanon said the tion in its operating hours because of the strike,” Michele Giglio, owner of six boutiques in Palermo, reported brisk sales most popular purchase of Tuesday and he said. “They are opening later, which is a func- of bags, hats, scarves and belts. Wednesday was a knee-high suede and nylon boot tion of employees coming to work late. Stores are “In terms of handbags, Gucci is our top seller, followed by Prada and with fur trim on a wedge sole, on sale for $79.99. closing from one hour to three hours earlier. Fendi,’’ she said, adding that Roger Vivier has done “surprisingly’’ well, too. “Because it’s 34th Street, the business we get is They’re mainly doing it because there’s less traf- “We are selling a lot less apparel compared to last year,’’ she said. “There tourists,” said Eugene Ferreira, manager of fic on the street. The national chains are closing simply is not much demand for eveningwear or special items for New Year’s Eve.’’ Shoemania, which sells athletic sneakers and early in deference to their employees.” All told, Giglio said, thanks to luxury accessories, sales at her stores are work-boot styles. “There are no locals [around].” Looking ahead to New Year’s Eve, Feder said up 19 percent over last year. Ferreira said consumers have been buying com- some stores have already decided they will stay Toni Tanfani, owner of two Gisa stores in central Italy, also reported strong sales fortable sneakers and walking shoes, like those open later to try to make up some lost ground if of handbags — as well as a building rush of clients over the last couple of days. from Mephisto and Echo. the strike is not over. “The smaller independents “Sales this Christmas are quite good,’’ she said. “Accessories and bags are Fortunoff ’s on Fifth Avenue and 54th Street said they definitely would stay open later,” he said. our bestsellers. Balenciaga and Chloé are the new best-selling, trendy bags.” made its sale plan on the first day of the strike, — With contributions from David Moin, — With contributions from Melissa Drier, Berlin; Luisa Zargani, said Arlene Putterman, vice president of public Sophia Chabbott, Arthur Zaczkiewicz Milan, and Nina Jones, London relations. However, Putterman said Wednesday’s and Lisa Lockwood 10 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 WWD.COM Denim Report Acne Studio Arrives in Berlin

By Melissa Drier nor chief executive officer Mikael Schiller would reveal their next target market. Views from the BERLIN — Acne Jeans’ first store outside of Scandinavia is “It’s not that we necessarily want to go to Paris or newest Acne Studio. something of a vanishing act. London before Amsterdam, for example,’’ Schiller said. The new 950-square-foot shop is the result of a collabora- “It’s more about getting to know and finding the right peo- tion with Berlin’s most conceptual retailer, Andreas Murkudis, ple. It’s why we’re here in Berlin. We’d met Andreas, and whose namesake store was Acne’s first German customer. then he called later and said, ‘Hey, there’s a free space.’” The design comes courtesy of Gonzalez Haase, Murkudis’ The Berlin shop is a 50-50 venture between Murkudis and architect of choice for three of his other stores located on Acne, and Murkudis said he expected the store to “easily Munzstrasse 21 and 23. Haase designed a monumental cabinet generate 500,000 euros,” or about $590,000, in first-year sales. that incorporates shelves, display areas and hanging racks to Acne Jeans got its start in 1997, when the Acne creative house the Acne range of products. Haase didn’t limit his design collective designed 100 pairs of raw denim jeans for friends, efforts to the store’s interior. While the men’s and women’s collec- family and clients. The collective was founded a year earli- tions are clearly visible through the store’s large windows during er, bringing together consultants from various fields. the day, at night, screens come down to hide the merchandise. “We saw music, film, fashion and design as one thing, “There’s not one piece of clothing to be and we didn’t want boundaries in be- seen at night,” said Murkudis. tween. That’s why we founded Acne in the The screens also function as a multimedia first place,” said Johansson. “We always projection surface, now running a compilation knew we wanted to work with fashion in of Acne looks from the company’s recently some way, and wanted to make something launched, large-format magazine, Acne Paper. interesting out of something generic. Sales of the Swedish cult brand have soared Jeans have been the center of every sub- during the past two years, increasing from 1.4 culture, youth-rebel movement. That’s million euros, or $1.6 million, in 2003 to 14 mil- why they’re so interesting.” lion euros, or about $17.4 million, this year. Acne takes a new angle on denim Mikael Schiller and Jonny Johansson Acne Jeans opened its first Acne Studio every season, Johansson said. store in Stockholm in 2003, followed by a second store in “This season, the most important new silhouette is high Copenhagen in 2004. A third bowed in August in the waisted and not so tight, even though we’re still selling Copenhagen department store Illum. The company sells in tight fits really well,” he said. 375 doors in 25 countries, including Barneys New York and Jeans will remain Acne’s core, but in its home market Jeffrey’s in New York, Colette in Paris, Selfridges and and key retail accounts, interest is growing for its nonden- Browns Focus in London and IT in Hong Kong. im segment. “The store concept is not built on retail only,’’ said Acne “Colette, for example, has been buying jeans for a long founder and creative director Jonny Johansson. “We want to be time, but then they bought the tulip dress in mohair wool lust driven. We want to invite people into where we are at cer- for spring, which is a very business, very fashion look,” tain points in our lives….We want to create a sense of history, for Johansson added. as a young brand with no history, we have to create it ourselves.” A showroom in Paris is on the drawing board for next

While other stores are in the works, neither Johansson year, as is an Acne Jeans showroom in New York. JEREMY GOLDBERG BY THOMAS MEYER/OSTKREUZ; AGAVE STORE BY FOTO-DI-MATTI.COM; SCHILLER AND JOHANSSON PHOTO BY Taste of Nectar Diesel’s Renzo Rosso Charges Into ‘Fifty’ By Luisa Zargani By Martine Bury MILAN — Those looking for insight into Diesel and what makes its chief executive officer, LOS ANGELES — Men’s denim brand Agave Renzo Rosso, tick will find it in “Fifty,” his new coffee table book. Denimsmith is turning its attention to the op- Rosso stressed that he never intended the book — marking his 50th birthday this year posite sex. —to be a self-celebration. Rosso views it as a collection of the different parts that make Agave Nectar, the California-based premi- up the Diesel world, including family and friends, his wine, his Pelican hotel in Miami um denim line’s first collection for women, Beach, his soccer team, his private plane and his 1929 boat, Lady May. will hit stores in mid-January. Owner and de- “The book is about my lifestyle, but also about creativity,” said Rosso, who released a signer Jeff Shafer said he decided to do the similar book 10 years earlier, titled “Forty,” naturally. “It’s a history of Diesel, of what we collection after discovering that women were are doing now and a glimpse into the future, but all is filtered through my own memories, buying the men’s jeans for themselves at hopes and dreams.” many of Agave’s 400 sellers nationwide. The 200-plus-page book covers Diesel’s most outstanding advertising campaigns, “For the first two years, I would tell the shows a range of different product offerings, questions the meaning of success and in- buyers that I’m not doing women’s denim,” cludes contributions by Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani, Interview’s Ingrid Sichy, Vivienne said Shafer, who started the company three Agave will break into the Westwood, Martin Margiela, DSquared’s Dean and Dan Caten, Sir Paul Smith and Vogue years ago. “After learning how to connect women’s market next fall France’s Carine Roitfeld, among others. with the male customer, I waited to be able to with Agave Nectar. “These are friends who are really offer something to the female market, which close to me,” said Rosso. is a much higher challenge.” There are also “face-to-face con- The new line will be available in two fits that Shafer characterized as versations” with the Dalai Lama and “feminized” versions of the men’s styles. La Mariposa, a medium-rise, Bono, i-D magazine founding editor straight-leg, and La Sirena, a lower-rise boot-cut, will distinguish them- Terry Jones and Kevin Roberts, selves from the men’s styles with Tiffany blue and yellow stitching and worldwide ceo of Saatchi & Saatchi. white suede embroidered trims. Written with British journalist and “I have never chased after over-processed, gimmicked-out jeans,” said writer Mark Tungate, Rosso worked Shafer, describing the resilient Japanese-milled SuPima cotton blended bro- on the book for a year, translating it ken twills used in Agave Nectar. “If someone is going to spend $180, they have into Italian twice. to be good because my customers don’t buy a new pair of jeans every week.” “I stressed about every single Although the men’s brand is available at Nordstrom and Barneys New York word, always looking for the best, stores, Nectar will be launched and tested only at specialty shops such as Detour most appropriate one,” he said, prais- in Milwaukee and Indigo in Santa Monica, Calif. Shafer admits his biggest chal- ing Tungate as a writer who “perfect- lenge is “managing expectations,” so he plans to grow the line through word of ly reflects my own thoughts.” mouth as he has with Agave Denimsmith, which bowed in February 2003. The book will be available at se- “Our strategy is to test and perfect the product in the stores over the lected bookstores in the U.S. and next six months,” he said. “If the stuff we ship first tests well, we expect to Japan next month, retailing at $150. It move three million to five million [pairs] for the year.” will be introduced in Europe and on The line will wholesale for $80 to $90. Diesel’s Web site at the end of the “We are anticipating that our customers will want the Nectar because the month. Diesel plans to publish brand is filling a void with a classic product set apart by really good fabrics around 8,000 copies. Enclosed with and really great cuts,’’ said Julia Knier, owner and buyer for Public I Limited the book is a DVD with coverage of in Chicago. “These jeans are for women who want to look hot yet sophisticat- The cover of “Fifty.” fashion shows and a selection of ed, without having to compete with their daughters or to look overly trendy.” Diesel’s visual work. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 11 WWD.COM The Beat Guru on the Move By Alessandra Ilari Guru sells to 3,000 doors in Europe alone, but in order to promote its total look, Cambi has ironed out a MILAN — Guru, the $106 million Italian urban sports- master plan to open freestanding stores, either directly wear brand, wants to compete among the big boys. operated or franchised. By 2008, Guru’s retail network Catapulted to success by T-shirts splattered with a is expected to generate $41.4 million when it plans to huge daisy across the front or back, Guru has a bullish have 30 stores between Italy and Spain, the brand’s plan to become a medium-sized player among major strongest markets. firms such as Miss Sixty, Diesel and Replay. In the first quarter of 2006, Guru will open stores in Rather than suffering the aftershocks of the Sept. 11, Antwerp, Belgium, as well as Italian cities such as 2001 attacks, Guru began restocking its retailers with Bologna, Milan, Catania, Palermo and Parma. 40,000 T-shirts and sweatshirts per month in the sum- “We want the stores to be approximately 3,240 square Guru’s spring ad campaign, shot by David LaChapelle. mer of 2002. At the end of last month, Guru acquired a feet,” said Patrick Nebiolo, who joined Jam Session ed into fashion-driven total looks of about 800 pieces be- majority stake in premium Dutch denim label Blue Group as managing director in 2003 to help Cambi put tween women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories. A Blood to boost its international presence. Guru’s plans his growth strategies into practice. children’s line called Guru Gang made its debut in 2003. include making inroads in the U.S. and Japan, and He said Guru is in talks with potential partners to Though Cambi gives the final thumbs up, an interna- opening 30 freestanding stores by 2008 in Italy and penetrate the U.S. in a fast and incisive manner, begin- tional design team of six, coordinated by Simona Spain, when sales are expected to hit $237 million. ning in 2007. Vecchi, Cambi’s mother, puts the collections together. Guru also has a quirky new spring ad campaign featur- “We’re an Italian company so we want to make an en- “In the beginning I was more involved, but my mom, ing Pamela Anderson, photographed by David LaChapelle. trance in a different way,” said Nebiolo. “We want a who owned a knitwear manufacturer for decades with “Young people instantly related to the daisy, which local partner to secure a capillary presence in the next my dad, knows the market well and is able to gel brand they found very strong, a little childish and impactful,” two years. Some of our competitors opened money-los- identity with commercial clout,” said Cambi. said Matteo Cambi, president of Jam Session Group, which ing stores in New York and Los Angeles without build- The clothes are manufactured primarily in China, owns Guru. “It was Guru’s starting point, a vehicle through ing the market. That’s not our logic.” Turkey, India and Tunisia, with a small amount of pro- which we grew if you consider that over the past four As for U.S. cities, the focus is on New York, Los duction in Italy. years our annual production went from 10,000 garments to Angeles and Miami, and possibly Boston and Chicago. A “Aside from lower labor costs, it’s hard to find Italian 200,000,” said Cambi. He founded Guru in 1999, after a two- similar plan will kick off in Japan next year. manufacturers that can guarantee the fast turnaround year stint in New York studying English and marketing. He The store concept is in the hands of an international we need,” said Cambi. “In our early stages, there were was only 22 at the time but already an insightful maverick. team of architects, who were assigned to treat main- times when we needed to restock tens of thousands of T- “We were pioneers of an edgier sportswear [line] be- stream materials such as steel, wood and glass in an un- shirts per month and couldn’t afford to lose our clients.” cause unless you traveled and bought Abercrombie & likely manner and pump up the color factor. Added Nebiolo, “We’ve built a strong backbone for Fitch or opted for Nike’s apparel, in Italy there was Since it began, Guru has churned out 4.5 million gar- the company because in order to avoid being a flash in nothing of this sort,” Cambi said. ments, and the initial collections of basics have expand- the pan, you need to plan.”

A sailboat Smooth Sailing for Lauren Moffatt dress in All Grown Up chiffon and By Lauren DeCarlo silk by NEW YORK — Designer Caroline Hedaya Caroline NEW YORK — Lauren Moffatt, designer of the Lauren is learning to trust her gut feeling. Hedaya. Moffatt contemporary collection, has come a long way When she was developing her collec- since launching her line six years ago. For starters, tion, Caroline Hedaya, for the spring 2006 she’s no longer cutting costs by living on a sailboat season with co-designer Donna Baxter, docked in the Hudson River off Jersey City. wanted to keep it sophisticated, but didn’t “We needed room for a sewing machine,” Moffatt, 30, want to shy away from cutesy, girlie styles, said matter-of-factly of her unusual choice of living so she injected the tailored collection with quarters. Business has since picked up for the Phila- a sprinkling of ruffles, taffeta and over- delphia native. By the spring 2004 season, Moffatt saw sized pockets. The collection launched distribution increase to between 100 and 150 stores during fashion week here in September from 50, and by the end of 2006, she anticipates the at the Style Lounge on Broadway. wholesale volume for the brand will reach $5 million, “Everyone was very impressed with up from $3.2 million in 2005, the brand’s biggest volume the amount of work we did on classic increase to date. silhouettes,” said Hedaya. “As two 22-

“I felt like there was a lot of sameness out there. I’m MARDEL DAYMION PHOTOS BY year-olds, we got a great response.” not following the trends,” she said, seated in her design A turquoise dress with Despite Hedaya and Baxter’s age, studio here in the Garment District, “but I’m trying to leather straps, and a silk the collection features luxurious, come up with new silhouettes and I’m constantly asking batwing dress by Lauren sophisticated at grown-up myself, ‘What would I want to wear right now?’ ” The Moffatt. prices. The wholesale price range of underground, mixing in the rock answer to that self-posed question is tops, dresses, skirts and coats in silk and cotton. the 40-piece spring collection is scene, which definitely works as an For spring 2006, a collection is inspired by the furniture of the late German artist between $200 for pants and cotton inspiration. We look at things very dif- Josef Albers and the tapestries of his wife, Anni. Moffatt’s key color palette includes dresses and $1,000 for a long ferently,” said Baxter. “I think, paprika, turquoise and white and features delicate embroidery, piping and leather dress. For fall, the range for High-waisted navy pants ‘Would I wear this?’ and Caro- trimming. The collection is available at specialty boutiques, including the 30-piece collection jumps with a cotton tank. line thinks, ‘Is this appealing to Poppy, Big Drop and Barneys New York here; Lisa Kline in Los Angeles; slightly higher and goes from the eye?’” Selfridges in London, and boutiques in Paris, Barcelona, Brazil, $300 for cashmere sweater dresses to Key pieces from spring include a Japan, Puerto Rico, Canada, Sweden and Jakarta, Indonesia. $2,000 for ballroom skirts and . plaid full jacket that wholesales for “I think my consumer is in her 20s or 30s and is urban — from Hedaya declined to provide a wholesale $335, a three-layer dress that wholesales New York or Los Angeles — and isn’t wearing anything from head to volume for the line’s first year. for $520 and a sailboat dress in silk and toe,” Moffatt said. “She mixes things well, so that they’re timeless. The collection is available at Tucci in chiffon, which wholesales for $600. For She just has a good style.” San Diego. The designers’ goal for next fall, Hedaya said the theme is based on Wholesale prices of the collection range from $98 for tops, skirts year is to launch the collection in at Neil Simon’s romantic comedy, “Bare- and pants and extend up to $240 for long winter coats. For now, least six specialty stores. foot in the Park.” The collection mainly Moffatt and her partner, also the label’s co-founder, Rob Pepin, “It’s definitely a luxury collection,” features cashmere dresses; tight, form- whom she met at the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science, Hedaya said. “The fall collection is so fitted silhouettes with leather detailing, handle the entire business themselves. Everything — including much more mature. We were testing the and colors such as emerald green, black apparel, outerwear, swimwear and accessories such as belts and waters with spring and did what we and beige. handbags — is financed, designed and manufactured by Moffatt and wanted. But for fall, every piece is so “These are really special pieces that Pepin. In 2002, Moffatt and Pepin signed with New York-based Simon strong and makes a statement.” should be worn at a gala or a museum Showroom to handle the brand’s sales. Hedaya and Baxter met while studying party,” Hedaya said. “It’s for a free-spirited “There is a limit to what we can do,” Moffatt said, admitting that self- at the Fashion Institute of Technology here. woman who has a sense of humor. It’s fash- funding the line sometimes has its drawbacks. “But I do want to create Hedaya grew up in Manhattan and Baxter ion. We’re not looking to be so serious.” a lifestyle brand.” is from Long Island, where she played gui- “She’s got to be confident and willing “We want to expand into different categories and grow the compa- tar and piano and was very much involved to stand out,” Baxter added. ny at a controlled rate that we can maintain,” Pepin in the underground music scene. “Caroline “Exactly,” Hedaya concurred. “Emerald Lauren Moffatt’s Marley top added. “[Moffatt] can do great things with the right comes from a classic background where green is not an easy color to wear.” with pleated linen shorts. resources.” she’s seen couture designs. I was more —L.D. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 WWD.COM

Active LifestyleX A dress for post-yoga Bua Gets Wise With Yoga activities. Julee Greenberg

NEW YORK — Vilasinee Bunnag hopes that her new yogawear line gives women some ease in dressing for their classes. Called Bua, the Thai word for lotus, a symbol of peace and wisdom, the line includes studio-appropriate clothing such as tops with snug waists to make sure they stay in place during head and handstands, and pants that can be easily pulled up to knee-length during class. “In yoga clothing, I like them to be flowing and feminine,” said Bunnag, 36, a Bangkok-native who launched Bua in the summer after working in corporate phi- lanthropy at a financial services company. “My body has changed quite a bit over the years, so I make sure my clothes are also body-conscious along with functional.” In yoga, she said, it’s important for the instructor and the exerciser to see the shoulder blades and knees to make sure the poses are being done correctly. So, many of the items in the collection are made to expose those key body parts. Bunnag also chooses not to work with chemically treated fabrics such as Quick- dry or Coolmax, but instead with high-quality cotton blends and French terry that naturally absorb sweat and moisture. “There’s an important fashion element to these clothes,” she said. “When I wear cut-off sweats to the gym, I just don’t feel good in them, which in turn makes it hard to enjoy the workout.” Also included in the line are zip-ups and a couple of comfortable, form-fit- ting dresses for the walk home from yoga. The Bua line wholesales from $12 for a pair of armwarmers to $55 for a top and pants set. Bua is sold in a variety of spas and gym boutiques, including It’s Yoga in Hollywood, Calif., Bodd in Greenwich, Conn., and 4 Yoga in Zurich, Switzerland. Bunnag said she is keeping sales expectations small for the first Bua’s functional yoga gear. year at $150,000. Inca Takes Steps Toward Lifestyle Brand Finish Line’s New Chain NEW YORK — Since launching Inca in 1998, Stephanie Hirsch has been on a growth mission. Initially, she added beach mats, then expanded with embellished Paves Way for Women bathing and resort coverups like caftans. Along the way, she found a business partner in Stacy Deutsch, a former sales executive at Polo By David Moin Ralph Lauren and Max Mara. Now, the duo is moving a few steps closer to their plan of building NEW YORK — The Finish Line disclosed more details Inca into a lifestyle brand. This resort season, the company expanded about its new women’s athletic chain, saying it will be one-year-old Incagirl into a full collection. Next year, the two executives called Paiva and that 200 stores are a possibility. hope to open the first Inca store, most likely in Manhattan, and they are The specialty retailer, based in Indianapolis, also adding a capsule collection of dresses to the mix. reported third-quarter earnings on Wednesday, which It is a far cry from Inca’s beginnings as a quirky totes label. Hirsch, a came in on guidance. former assistant stylist, came up with the idea for the line after hiking “This is truly a new demographic,” Finish Line the Inca Trail on an inspirational trip to Peru. chairman and chief executive officer Alan Cohen said “I saw all these people with the same striped plastic bags,” she in an interview about Paiva. “The demographic is the recalled. “I thought they were amazing. At Machu Pichu, I sat on a rock 25- to 40-year-old active woman, whereas at Finish and had an epiphany. I thought, ‘I have to find the weavers and bring Line, only about 20 percent of our business is female these bags back to the stores.’” and the target customer is much younger — 18 to 19.” Inca has wholesale sales of $2.5 Stacy Deutsch and Paiva, which is Scandinavian in origin, refers to a million. It is sold in stores such as Stephanie Hirsch sun deity and light as a source of energy or strength. Barneys New York, Saks Fifth “Paiva is going to be more upscale, therefore the Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Scoop, potential locations would not be as numerous as Finish Fred Segal and Intermix. Globally, Line,” which has 659 stores, Cohen said. He cited the it is available at Four Seasons 200-unit objective. Hotels, Selfridges in London, In the near term, Cohen said, “we are looking to open Harvey Nichols in Dubai and Villa five stores, probably around mid-April, in different parts Moda in Kuwait. of the country. I wouldn’t characterize this as a test. We Incagirl targets a similar distri- are anticipating opening 15 the first year.” bution. It features shrunken ver- While many other specialty retailers also have sions of Inca designs from bejew- launched start-ups in the past year, including Gap with eled swimsuits to and caf- Forth & Towne and Abercrombie & Fitch with Ruehl, tans for the three- to 11-year-old Finish Line is not following the pack by starting Paiva, set. Deutsch had prompted Hirsch Cohen said. “This is something we have been working on to start the children’s line after for nearly two years. We’ve done a lot of market witnessing a baby boomlet among research. We feel it’s a customer being underserved.” their peers. He added that Paiva’s target customer, a regular exer- “The hottest accessory is the ciser and sports participant, primarily shops at full-line child,” Deutsch quipped. “Many sporting goods stores and department stores for the active of our friends have kids or are products, and boutiques such as Lucy. The mix will be pregnant.” about 70 percent apparel and accessories, and 30 percent Incagirl wholesales from $25 to footwear, with brands and private labels. Stores will aver- $30 for bathing suits and $45 to $60 age at about 4,000 square feet and will be situated in for coverups. By comparison, the malls. The launch will include the Web and a catalogue. Inca collection for women whole- In the quarter ended Nov. 26, net income was sales from $85 to $150. $845,000, or 2 cents a diluted share, a decrease of 62 The new dress collection, meanwhile, wholesales for $150. There are percent, versus net income of $2.2 million, or 4 cents a three styles of minidresses in silk, lace and cotton that are cinched at the diluted share in the year-ago period. waist and suitable for throwing over a swimsuit on the beach. They can Sales increased 16 percent to $274 million compared also serve as tops coupled with jeans. The dresses will launch in stores with $235.3 million a year ago. Comparable-store sales in March. increased 4 percent, after an 8 percent gain a year ago. “It’s an exclusive line of sportswear, which gives us more sales oppor- In a statement, Cohen said sales exceeded plan, tunities,” Deutsch said. with improved product margins. The income per share The partners are hopeful their resort concept can easily translate into of 2 cents is within the range of 1 cent to 3 cents several different categories, and Hirsch said she sees potential in announced in the chain’s third-quarter sales release. footwear, men’s swimwear and beachwear, and even sun care. He also said store openings for the Man Alive division “Our goal is to develop a whole lifestyle collection so the whole fami- From top: Matching looks from Inca are being accelerated. Eleven Man Alive stores opened dur- ly can come and be outfitted by us,” Deutsch added. and Incagirl and a spring dress from ing the third quarter and two more are planned in the fourth — Marc Karimzadeh the new capsule collection. quarter. As of last month, Man Alive operated 49 stores. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 13 WWD.COM The fashion world loves a good party. But celebrations and parties took on a new meaning this year as many became fund-raisers for relief efforts after TheWWDList the Asian tsunami and Hurricane Katrina. Several of the top 10 parties from style.com raised funds for the victims of those catastrophes, while others, such as the Seventh on Sale gala, generated donations for AIDS awareness. Style.com’s ranking, which tallied top parties of 2005 by the amount of visits to each party page on its Web site, also included red-carpet events such as the Oscars and the Golden Globes, while fashion weeks The Year in Parties around the world, including New York and Milan, made the top 10, as well. Style.com’s most-viewed parties and events of 2005. — Cecily Hall and Emily Kaiser COSTUME INSTITUTE PARTY OF THE YEAR Total page views: 4,260,343 The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute gala and tribute to Chanel in May drew many of Hollywood’s leading women, despite the sour weather. Nicole Kidman, in a Chanel made for her by — her date and co-host — greeted guests with Lagerfeld. Jennifer 1 Connelly, Selma Blair and Claire Danes all made appearances, along with Jessica Simpson, who was smashing in a revealing strapless by Michael Kors. Many, of course, turned up wearing Chanel — from vintage (Rachel Weisz) to new (Vanessa Paradis and Kidman).

2005 CFDA AWARDS Page views: 3,039,841 The Council of Fashion Designers of America’s 24th annual awards ceremony in June was in the Celeste Bartos Forum of the New York Public Library. In the reception hall, awards were handed out to some of the industry’s most influential figures. David Bowie presented the Award for 2 Fashion Influence to Kate Moss. The Lifetime Achievement Award went to Diane von Furstenberg, who thanked her family, friends and generations of women who have worn her dresses “with a smile,” according to style.com. Vera Wang took home the evening’s final statuette for the year’s top women’s wear designer.

2005 ACADEMY AWARDS Page views: 1,913,346 The box office has noticeably struggled in the past year, but the 77th Annual Academy Awards still managed to attract 42.1 million viewers. While that number was down slightly from 2004, it is a 27 percent increase from 2003, when only 33 million tuned in. This year, it was unlikely that viewers were 3 disappointed by Hollywood’s biggest names strutting their stuff on the red carpet. Academy Award winners Cate Blanchett and Hilary Swank wore winners on the carpet, as well: Blanchett stood out in a yellow Valentino couture gown, and Swank broke the rules in her backless navy Guy Laroche.

FASHION FOR RELIEF RUNWAY SHOW AND PARTY Page views: 1,214,667 Though New York Fashion Week is one of the busiest for designers and celebrities, they took time to support raising money for the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. joined 7th on Sixth and the MAC AIDS Fund on Sept. 14 to present a variety of clothing donated by designers. Nicole 4 Richie and Kelly Osbourne joined old and new models as they strutted the runway in styles full of color, V-necks and little dresses, all of which were being auctioned on Yahoo.com.

2005 GOLDEN GLOBE AWARDS Page views: 1,208,125 The 62nd Annual Golden Globe Awards were a blast from the past as Natalie Portman arrived in a Chloé flapper dress, and Renée Zellweger and Eva Longoria donned mini cocktail dresses by Carolina Herrera and , respectively. And Uma Thurman appeared in Dior, representing 5 the drape of the Grecian era. In support of this theme, Teri Hatcher was far from desperate, as she looked stunning in Donna Karan and celebrated a solo win for Best Actress in a Television Comedy and an ensemble win for Best Television Series for “Desperate Housewives.’’

FALL 2005 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PARTIES: PART 1 Page views: 1,046,844 The popularity of New York Fashion Week compelled style.com to break up the slew of parties and events into three sections. For part one, parties such as Another Magazine’s bash at the Hotel Gansevoort’s eatery, Ono, and the Citizens’ party at Leisure Time Bowl were profiled. Model 6 Citizens is a charity that was founded by Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow and Kirsty Hume. The party was thrown as a fund-raiser for children SARDELLA; RUNWAY RELIEF BY TALAYA CENTENO; NY: PART 3 BY KEITH SMITH; MILAN BY DAVE YODER AND STEPHANE FEUGERE YODER DAVE KEITH SMITH; MILAN BY 3 BY PART CENTENO; NY: TALAYA RELIEF BY SARDELLA; RUNWAY affected by the tsunami. And the hot ticket of the week, Marc Jacobs (whose collection garnered the most page views for style.com in the 12 days after it was posted), threw his after party at 24 Fifth Avenue. Anna Sui, Drew Barrymore and Zoe Cassavetes attended, among others.

FALL 2005 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PARTIES: PART 3 Page views: 1,035,963 No matter that Jennifer Lopez was a no-show for her own after party following the debut of her line, Sweetface — viewers still flocked to style.com to find out about the soiree. Zac Posen threw his gala at the Four Seasons, with a little help from Interview magazine, MAC cosmetics and close pals, from 7 Shannen Doherty and Vivica A. Fox to Sean Combs and Ashanti. And, following Calvin Klein’s show, which WWD described as an “effort pulsed with the essential ingredients of experimentation: surprise, mistakes and, most of all, confidence,” designer Francisco Costa partied at Indochine, flanked by guests Hilary Swank and Claire Danes.

SPRING 2006 MILAN PARTIES Page views: 1,009,960 Fashion week in Milan was somewhat chaotic for show goers, designers and the press because of a schedule shortened to six days from seven, horrid 8 traffic and intense security. But that didn’t stop the celebrations from happening all over town. Even Italy’s prime minister, Silvio Berlusconi, couldn’t resist Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s 20th anniversary soiree, which also attracted guests such as Elizabeth Hurley, Chloë Sevigny, Eva Mendes and (along with 2,000 others). The week closed with an elegant fund-raiser for the Fashion Fund, hosted by Italian Vogue’s Franca Sozzani and Vogue’s Anna Wintour, in an 18th-century church.

SEVENTH ON SALE ONLINE GALA AND SECOND ANNUAL CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND DINNER Page views: 994,570 Designers Dolce & Gabbana and stars Jennifer Lopez and Joy Bryant joined their peers as they flocked to Skylight Studios for this shopping event, which was held to raise money for the fight against AIDS and HIV. And though the focus was on the charity, the metallic evening dresses and winter 9 white furs stood out on Anna Wintour and Scarlett Johansson in Calvin Klein. Members of the Lauren clan, including Ralph himself, also attended. As for the awards, the $200,000 grand prize went to the men in black of Trovata, who gave new meaning to a “black-and-white” event with white sneakers.

2005 EMMY AWARDS Page views: 981,146 Black was back at this year’s Emmy Awards, as Charlize Theron, Jennifer Garner and host Ellen DeGeneres showed the extent of the color’s style and 10 sophistication. Black and other dark solid colors reflected the feeling of fall, while some actresses took their cues from the various spring 2006 fashion weeks, wearing floral prints and strapless gowns. Felicity Huffman won for Best Actress in a Comedy Series, but all the Desperate Housewives, including Marcia Cross in an emerald Elie Saab, sparkled on the red carpet. COSTUME INSTITUTE, CFDA AWARDS AND 7TH ON SALE PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; ACADEMY AWARDS, GOLDEN GLOBES AND EMMY AWARDS BY DONATO BY AND EMMY AWARDS GOLDEN GLOBES STEVE EICHNER; ACADEMY AWARDS, AND 7TH ON SALE PHOTOS BY COSTUME INSTITUTE, CFDA AWARDS SOURCE: STYLE.COM; ALL TOTAL PAGE VIEWS AS OF DEC. 16 14 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 WWD.COM Ingredient Regulations GDP Rises 4.1% in Quarter By Evan Clark the strength of consumer spend- However, Tim Kane, an econ- ing for the last two to three years, omist at the Heritage Founda- Main Focus of Conclave WASHINGTON — Overcoming a and we believe that it is likely to tion, a conservative think tank, devastating hurricane season and end in 2006 because of the rise in said the trade deficit, while not By Jennifer Joan Lee a sharp increase in gasoline interest rates and a little bit of a a sign of strength, was insignifi- prices, the U.S. Gross Domestic pullback in housing markets,” cant and counterbalanced by CHARTRES, France — Regulations for cosmetics and their ex- Product — an economic bell- said Mothersole. foreign investments in the U.S. port worldwide were among the hot topics discussed at the third wether — grew at an annualized Overall, increases in busi- “I look at how much we can annual Perfumes and Cosmetics Congress. rate of 4.1 percent in the third ness spending will help balance produce and the fact is there’s More than 500 people attended the two-day event here last quarter, the Commerce Depart- the drop off in consumer spend- one variable that matters there month, a 15 percent increase from the prior year, according to ment reported Wednesday. ing, he said. and that’s technology,” Kane said. Cosmetic Valley, the show’s or- That growth was less than the By the traditional benchmarks “Technology is going through a ganizer. The series of confer- 4.3 percent foreseen in last — good GDP growth, high pro- second major renaissance — the BEAUTY BEAT ences also looked into issues month’s preliminary numbers, ductivity, low inflation and a 5 first one was the Industrial Revo- such as ingredients of the fu- but still considered strong by percent unemployment rate last lution. There’s an information ture and product safety and control. A presentation on cosmetics economists. month — the economy looks technology revolution and it’s regulations in South America, North America and Asia highlighted However, there is concern strong, said Thea Lee, policy di- self-sustaining.” the meeting’s second day. about an acceleration in infla- Florence Kahn, director of international regulations for the tion, especially as this fall’s in- Parfums & Cosmetiques unit of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis creases in fuel prices work their Technology is going through a Vuitton, said regulations in the U.S. can often be flexible, lead- way through the supply chain, “ ing some American firms to misunderstand the rigidity of said John Mothersole, senior second major renaissance — the first European regulations. economist at the research firm “American companies have problems understanding that one Global Insight. one was the Industrial Revolution. set of guidelines cannot be applied to the entire region and cos- For now, inflation is in check. There’s an information technology metics guidelines are not the only laws affecting cosmetics,” Excluding energy and food said Kahn. “They also have problems dealing with the multilin- items, retail prices on all goods revolution and it’s self-sustaining. gual factor in Europe.” and services inched up 0.2 per- Kahn noted, though, that the disparity between the two re- cent last month. — Tim Kane, Heritage Foundation” gions is starting to shrink. The California Safe Cosmetics Act Still, it is costing consumers passed two months ago, for example, will require disclosure of more to fuel their cars and heat rector in the AFL-CIO’s legisla- Just as the Internet has short- ingredients that could cause cancer. their homes, which next year tion department. ened supply chains, he said new Europe’s rigid regulations, however, pale in comparison to might tamp down discretionary However, the traditional forms of retail technology will those in Asia, where registration and packaging procedures re- spending on items such as ap- measures aren’t telling the en- boost the productivity of the main mired in red tape, according to executives. In China, cos- parel. A gallon of regular gas tire story, Lee said. American worker and the na- metics firms are obliged to submit reams of documentation to two cost an average of $2.21 Wed- “We’re coasting on borrowed tion’s GDP. government bodies, a process that could take up to nine months nesday, up from $1.81 a year ago, money and that can’t go on for- “The housing sector might for registration, and another four months to validate the labeling, the American Automobile Asso- ever,” she said, pointing to grow- cool, interest rates are being according to regulatory affairs consultant Sylvain Romain Cotte. ciation said. ing poverty, stagnant real wages, inched up,” Kane said. “Those Aside from fuel, the housing increasing debt and a trade are signs of how much gas or market might also make life more deficit on track to top $700 bil- brakes are [being] applied. They American companies have difficult for retailers next year. lion this year. “For the average are not signs of how strong is the “ “Home equity loans have been worker, this is not a strong econ- engine and the engine’s incredi- problems understanding that one one of the chief pump primers in omy,” she said. bly strong.” set of guidelines cannot be applied to the entire region and cosmetics guidelines are not the only laws Kenzie to Unveil Handbag Line at MAGIC affecting cosmetics. ” NEW YORK — Accessories got top billing at leather bags in hunter green, sienna, licorice — Florence Kahn, LVMH Parfums & Cosmetiques Kenzie in 2005. and various prints. The bags wholesale from After launching watches, jewelry, hair ac- $40 to $80. “There may be 1.3 billion people in China,” said Cotte. “But cessories and cold-weather categories in the “It’s an easy collection,” said Lani Karls, imagine how many of them are bureaucrats.” past year, the 15-year-old contemporary com- vice president and director of design for the Regulations governing cosmetics in South Korea and Japan were pany, a division of Westcoast Contempo, is Vancouver-based Kenzie. “The bags have similarly complicated, Cotte contended. In Japan, Cotte said, it can capping the year with a new handbag soft shapes and hardware, but not in a take from one to more than five years to register any cosmetics con- collection. bling-bling way.” taining a known active ingredient. Such products include skin A collection of 40 handbag styles The collection will be targeted to de- whiteners, acne masks and sun protection creams. Companies can will preview at WWDMAGIC in Las partment and specialty stores in the reduce the waiting period by using active ingredients found on the Vegas in February. Rosetti Handbags U.S. and Canada, and where other government’s four “positive lists,” which are classified as hair col- and Accessories, which makes bags Kenzie products are already available. orants, perm kits, bath products and medicated toothpaste. Other for Franco Sarto and private label The handbags will also be sold at “positive lists” also exist, said Cotte, “but they are confidential.” for midtier retailers, will produce Kenzie’s two U.S. boutiques, in Nonetheless, Cotte concluded that Asian authorities are begin- the bags for Kenzie. Seattle and Santa Monica, Calif. ning to share and harmonize their existing regulations and regis- The fall handbag collection will in- Kenzie has plans to open up to six U.S. tration procedures in an effort to open their markets to the world. corporate softly constructed shoulder stores in 2006. A Kenzie bag. In terms of regulations for specific products, sun care was the only bags and totes in canvas, velvet and — Sophia Chabbott category singled out for attention. The AFSSAPS, or the French Health Products Safety Agency, in English, presented a set of recom- mendations for more precise labeling of sun care products in Europe. Arila Pochet, director of cosmetics for AFSSAPS, said only creams that offer protection against both UVA and UVB rays Cheney Breaks Byrd Bill Tie should be classified as “sun-protection” products. These prod- ucts, in turn, should be ranked by category — low, medium, high WASHINGTON — Vice President Dick Cheney and subsidized imports. During the last five or ultrahigh protection — rather than by SPF level, which tends fulfilled one of his Constitutional duties years, $1 billion has been doled out based on the to confuse the consumer or give a false sense of security, Pochet Wednesday, breaking a 50-50 tie in the Senate to provision. contended. Pochet also called for label instructions to go further pass a budget-reduction package that repeals the Importers supported the repeal of the amend- in educating and protecting users. Byrd Amendment and does away with a cotton- ment, arguing that it raised consumer prices by “Our research has revealed that consumers never use enough subsidy program. promoting additional unfair-trade cases. Textile sunblock or spread it over a large enough area,” said Pochet. The bill has to be approved again by the groups were on the other side of the debate and “They also tend to think using sunblock allows them to spend House, which passed the measure 212 to 206 on maintained that the Byrd Amendment protected more time under the sun.” Monday, because the Senate removed a few U.S. firms. Pochet said all sun care products should include accessible small health care-related provisions. It is un- Also folded into the almost $40 billion package instructions on how to use the product properly and how often it clear if the House will take up the bill again be- of spending cuts was the elimination of the so- should be applied. Also, guidelines on choosing the right level of fore the New Year. called Step 2 cotton-subsidy program as of Aug. 1. protection for one’s skin type and warnings about the hazards of Both the Byrd Amendment and the cotton- It supported cotton farmers, textile mills and ex- prolonged sun exposure should be clear, Pochet contended. subsidy program were found to violate World porters to the tune of $2.4 billion between 1995 The recommendations are currently being discussed by the Trade Organization rules. The Byrd Amendment, and 2004, according to the Environmental European Commission and new label laws are expected to be im- which is set to be phased out by Oct. 1, 2007, com- Working Group. plemented throughout Europe by summer 2007. pensates U.S. companies hurt by undervalued — Evan Clark WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 15

PRODUCTION MGR Incredible Sales Opportunity! Patternmaker: & COORDINATOR GLOBAL SALES MANAGER Couture evening and bridal gown designer seeks experienced (MEN’S WEAR) Min 5 years exp: men’s, women’s, patternmaker to production patterns Extensive exp in men’s collection full youth-action sports apparel. Must as well as grading. Will help supervise category ranges required. Position samplemaking team and work closely requires ability to interact w/ existing be able to hire & manage sales with designer. and future manufacturing facilities reps. Potential for equity ownership. Send resume and salary to: and to advise on & oversee all garment Co. plans to go public. [email protected] production methodology, technical needs & applications, and work-in- NYC & CA location. process scheduling. Proper computer Please contact Jerry Molnar background and knowledge of various Tel: 212-488-0050 software applications (i.e. CAD design, Designer Assistant Patternmaker Excel, etc.) desired. Needed ability to Fax: 201-200-9031 Designer collection seeks creative, High End Women’s Contemporary Design- interpret from pattern or technical E-mail: [email protected] detail oriented team player to assist er Label seeks exp’d. Head Patternmaker sketch origin into and through the 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 Rapidly expanding women’s appa- with a min. of 5 years of exp. in women’s production process. Responsible for all 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 Evening designer in all aspects of line rel retailer / wholesaler seeks development. Computer literacy is a contemporary market. Must have strong aspects of garment & related accessories Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in design sense and capability to make sourcing as well as complete produc- Chick by Nicky Hilton Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 General Manager for its New York must. Please fax resume at: 212 563 6215 patterns from 1st sample to production. tion implementation via regular inter- Seeking an exp’d. Account Executive City flagship boutique. Three to Supervision of all patternmaking in action with company designer and specializing in Specialty Stores and sub- For Space in Garment Center five years of designer boutique sample room is necessary for this position. merchandiser with respect to technical majors for a Jr./Young Contemporary exp preferred. Exceptional leader- Designers and Merchandiser Women’s contemporary fit and design specs. and required textile implemen- market;...est’d. relationships within these Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 1) Hd. Designer 7/16 2) Merchandiser 7/16 background a must. Salary + benefits. tation. Experience in men’s designer markets are a must. Please Fax resumes 212-880-0414 ship and organizational skills 3) Designer and Associate Socks Fax or E-mail resume to HR Dept. at: collection apparel including custom (all replies kept confidential) to: required, as well as the ability to Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) 212-925-4957 tailored and sportswear categories pre- 212-221-0157 multi-task in a fast-paced environ- [email protected] ferred. Company is based in mid-town Showrooms & Lofts FABRIC BUYER ASST $50K Manhattan. Please fax resume to LBS DENIM SALES MANAGER BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ment. Competitive compensation at satellite fax number of 214-660-1215. package. Fax resume: Bridge Mfr. Work w/Int’l Factories Salt Works Jeans, a high end jean co, Great ’New’ Office Space Avail [email protected] call 212-947-3400 seeks a Sales Manager with min 5 yrs ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 646-514-4157 or email exp to run the East Coast specialty [email protected] Fabric Sourcing Coordinator store business. Will work w/ VP, Sales Lingerie co. seeks detailed fabric coor- Excellent compensation package. Send dinator to work with vendors to resume to: [email protected] source & negotiate fabrics, trims & testing. Molding exp a plus. PRODUCTION Admin Since 1967 Fax resume to: 212-683-4131 ASSISTANT W-I-N-S-T-O-N Baby clothing/ accessory co. seeks full GRAPHIC DESIGNER time, self-motivated, organized indi- APPAREL STAFFING Dynamic Legwear & Accessory Co. vidual to assist w/ PO writing, factory DESIGN * SALES * MERCH seeks talented & detail oriented candi- communication & production coordi- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Director of Sales ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION date w/ 2-5 years graphic design exp. nation. Must be able to keep up with a (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Hi-fashion Contemp. sweater designer If you are a dynamic individual with Knowledge of package design a plus. fast paced work environment. excellent organization, communication Please fax resume: (212) 997-7273 seeks Exec to join our sales team. Est’d. Please fax resume to 212.279.1871 relationships w/contemp. retailers req’d. and follow up skills; and you can PATTERN/SAMPLES ATTN: Allegra Fax: 212-594-5320 / [email protected] lead a team in the quest to deliver Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast OUTSTANDING sales and service to work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 valued customers, then we have a tremendous opportunity for you as our Director of Sales. Must have relationships with key A+ contemporary retailers. Please email your resume and salary PATTERNS, SAMPLES, history to [email protected] PRODUCTIONS or fax to 310.945.5253 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Retail Managers PRODUCTIONS Westchester and Fairfield Counties Full service shop to the trade. Weareahighenergy 5 store contemporary Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. boutique looking for self starters that are well organized, merchandise savvy, computer literate, and are good people PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD managers. No evening hours. Competitive High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- compensation. Benefits. 401K. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Email resume to: [email protected] or fax: 914-723-0626 16 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2005 WWD.COM

OLIVIA CHANTECAILLE Destination: The Bahamas. “Our boat. An Italian JOANNE DE GUARDIOLA Flights of Fancy Apreamare, named ‘Eau Destination: Palm de Vie.’” Beach. “Our own Whether they’re packing for St. Barth’s, the Bahamas or Activities: Snorkeling, home, an old Addison Mexico, these ladies know how to plan a luxe vacation. Here’s waterskiing and Mizner.” eye® swimming. Fashion staples: what they’re up to this Christmas and New Year’s. Fashion Staples: “A Carolina Herrera & Tracy Feith dress, Andrew Gn. Jimmy Choo flat Reading Material: HELEN SCHIFTER sandals, a white “Alexander Destination: Isle de France, St. Bottega Veneta bag, Hamilton” by Ron Barth’s. a Christian Lacroix Chernow. Activities: “After dinner, we dress, Eres bikini, Looking forward to: run into our friends, like Hermès canvas “Hanging out with Russell Simmons and tote and a Lanvin our 10-year-old Donny Deutsch. Then straw hat.” twins, decorating we’re up at 7 a.m. to go Luggage: T. Anthony the hiking. When we get Christmas back at 2 p.m., tree with everyone is just getting them, taking up or they’re lying on them to ‘King the beach with a Kong.’ Plus hangover.” Monopoly, tennis, Fashion staples: Sun swimming and long hats. The bigger, walks on the beach the better. Eres with my husband.” bikinis and Hermès astrology bracelets. Luggage: Goyard Tote Bag and L.L. Bean. Reading Material: Zadie YVONNE FORCE VILLAREAL Smith’s “On Beauty.” Destination: “Marfa, Texas for Shopping: Hermès, Raffia, Christmas and Cuernavaca, Lacoste and Calypso. Mexico, for New Year’s.” Favorite spots: “L’Esprit Des Activities: “Scrabble, sleep and Salines, Maya and lunch at Taiwana.” screenings.” Most looking forward to: “[Daughter] Fashion staples: “Black lizard cowboy Storey went out yesterday with the boots for the ranch; Dior gown for our Perelman family on their big dinner party on Dec. 31. Bathing suits boat and went tubing.” from Tuleh and Calvin Klein and a few Fendi furs and Spy bags.” Luggage: “The largest Tumi bag ever made and I carry on my black AMANDA BROOKS fur Dolce & Gabbana handbag.” Destination: The Adirondacks. “My parents’ house at the Reading material: “Veronica” by Ausable Club.” Mary Gaitskill and “A Million Little Activities: Downhill and cross-country skiing, dogsledding, Pieces” by James Frey. bobsledding, ice skating, snow shoeing. Favorite spots: Prada Marfa (“a Fashion staples: Sorel boots and a raccoon coat. public sculpture I produced through Art Luggage: “T. Anthony and some fake Louis Vuitton.” Production Fund”) and The Temezcal Favorite Shop: “The Keene Valley Grocery.” bath at Mission Del Sol spa. Most looking forward to: “Running around the garden, chilling out by the JAMEE GREGORY pool by day with my son and drinking a Destination: Southampton few margaritas.” and the Lyford Cay Club in Nassau. Activities: “In Southampton, we’ll make

a big fire, pull out the BLAIR FARRELL/PMC BILLY JOE SCHILDHORN/PMC; HUSAIN BY CHANTECAILLE BY

Spode Christmas tree HUSAIN dishes, vintage Destination: stockings and The THELMA GOLDEN decorations and Bahamas. ELEANOR YLVISAKER Destination: eat a big turkey “We’re Destination: “My Miami at the from Catena.” staying at parents’ house in Standard. Reading material: the Ocean Palm Beach.” Fashion staples: Truman Capote’s Club with 22 of Activities: Relaxing “Lots of “In Cold Blood.” my family on the beach, drawstrings, Fashion staples: members. It was swimming, hanging tank tops and “Corduroys and organized by my out with family and flip-flops.” cashmere for mother. God bless playing tennis. Reading Southampton. her!” Fashion staples: material: For Lyford, I’ll Activities: Lily Holt coral “The last four pack up my white “Tennis, deep-sea flip-flops, a issues of pants, Eres bikinis fishing and hopefully Shoshanna Vanity Fair, and wraps and a building sand castles bikini, YSL Joan Didion’s beaded pink Oscar de la with the kids.” espadrilles, ‘The Year of Renta gown for New Year’s.” Shopping: “I love to try Earnest Sewn Magical Luggage: One Louis Vuitton to buy things from crop white knee- Thinking’ suitcase, and a carry-on local vendors, but if I length shorts. and Zadie denim and red leather win at roulette, I will Luggage: Olive Smith’s ‘On Hogan bag. shop everywhere.” green Filson. Beauty.’ And Most looking forward to: Reading material: Reading material: Hilton Als “Seeing our friends from “Michael Gross’ ‘740 Norman Mailer’s just sent me Europe, taking 4-mile Park’ and catching up on my “The ‘Beasts of No aerobic walks, strolling on fashion magazines.” Executioner’s Song.” Nation’ by the beach, playing tennis, Luggage: “Tricky. I am trying to (“It is so long, it will Uzodinma Iweala.” having curried chicken decide which stroller to take: The definitely last me through Luggage: Tumi Roll-on. salads served in a pineapple Bugaboo or the Maclaren.” my week’s vacation.”) Most looking forward to: by the pool and sleeping under Fashion staples: Kate Spade Favorite spots: “The “Sitting in the sun with a big straw hat and an umbrella handbag, Allegra Hicks tunics, beach and the bike no Blackberry and no around the pool.” Marc Jacobs bathing and J. trail where I jog in the cell phone.” Crew cashmere sweaters. morning.” BROOKS, GREGORY, DE GUARDIOLA, GOLDEN AND FORCE VILLAREAL PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; YLVISAKER AND SCHIFTER BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; AND SCHIFTER BY STEVE EICHNER; YLVISAKER VILLAREAL DE GUARDIOLA, PHOTOS BY GOLDEN AND FORCE BROOKS, GREGORY,