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MNEMBA ISLAND the Island Is Just Three Miles Off of His Suggestions

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MNEMBA ISLAND the Island Is Just Three Miles Off of His Suggestions irishtatlertravel Sun, sea and sand – most activities on Mnemba involve the ocean, from sundowner cruises to kayaking and snorkelling and learning to scuba dive Jaco, the resident chef, hauling fresh fish to shore, a daily part of his kitchen routine where he takes his culinary inspiration from the spices and natural ingredients of Zanzibar and the sea “If you harbour a fantasy of living on a quintessentially tropical island... then Mnemba certainly fits the bill” Vivid turquoise waters and bleached white sand surround this tiny island (just one kilometre all the way around). plantations and the chaotic and on a short walk through the forest colourful towns north west of to our beautiful villa-style banda. I &BEYOND Stone Town, the historic centre of never saw them again until we left. the capital and a World Heritage Mnemba has some special Site. We were heading for a remote touches and one of them is Jaco beach, and from there we would Kotze, the resident chef. One of catch the short boat ride across to the nicest encounters each morning the island of Mnemba. was Jaco’s tantalising run-through MNEMBA ISLAND The island is just three miles off of his suggestions. The effortless the coast and, as we rolled up our days on Mnemba perfecting A luxurious wild retreat with a difference in South Africa. trousers and waded into the warm the art of doing nothing made waters, we were entranced by a decisions about the food all the Norah Casey drawn carts and, in the years before he and beach experience. And finally perfect line of traditional wooden more important. So while eating samples island life passed away, we stayed at a tiny island in the day came when we could peel off dhows stretching towards the beach breakfast, looking out over the the Caribbean with only large land the khaki bush gear and head to our – we had definitely left the bush white coral beach stretching to the iguanas for neighbours. I am incredibly island adventure. We left andBeyond’s behind. The crossing was short, ocean. we would discuss and plan fortunate to have spent time on some of spectacular Ngorongoro Crater Lodge but long enough to whip away the with Jaco what we would eat next! planet earth’s most beautiful islands – early that morning and headed east to stresses of a frenzied morning of His suggestions were always just including those that are dotted around Lake Manyara where we boarded a small packing, travel and luggage lugging. right… a little spiced calamari with our own coastline. Coastal Airways plane for the short hop This was a whole different form of a zesty asparagus and artichoke I am offering that by way of context… to Zanzibar. The alien-like and rare, gigantic, tree-climbing coconut crab transport. A subtle transformation salad or grilled prawns with rice ust off the coast of Zanzibar, because this heavenly place is now at Zanzibar has two large islands and lives in deep burrows in the island’s forest. It’s the world’s from weary traveller to excited noodles. And then in the evening, the very top of my list of island idylls. many small ones nestling in the Indian largest land living anthropod and we were privileged to there is a beautiful paradise catch a glimpse of two of the four who live at Mnemba adventurer – the sun dazzling our the team would surprise us with island with impossibly vivid If you harbour a fantasy of living on a Ocean, just 20 or so kilometres off the eyes, the warm water spray lifting hidden and divine tableaux in turquoise waters lapping to the quintessentially tropical island – almost coast of Tanzania. The islands fell under our spirits as we leaned out from wondrous settings. But not before shoreline of a pristine, white picture-postcard perfect but with all of the control of the Sultanate of Oman in the boat to catch our first glimpse a little musical interlude when powderJ beach. It is the stuff of dreams. the laid-back simplicity of island living 1698, which heralded the development of Mnemba. Mike, the lodge manager, and My late husband Richard and I had a – then Mnemba fits the bill. Happily, it of plantations to grow cloves, nutmeg, As we neared the shore, we could Jaco and Chris, who ran the dive thing for islands. He grew up in Bermuda is far from deserted, with a discreet and cinnamon and black pepper – hence the make out a group of staff waving centre, would play the guitar and and Jersey and was always drawn to the efficient team at the ready to cater for name the Spice Islands. The archipelago’s and grinning, welcoming us as we sing a few songs around the fire sound of the sea. We once sailed The your every need, even those you hadn’t strategic position between the African pulled up to the beach. The fatigue as we sipped sundowners with our Grenadines for a month, stopping off at thought of. Great Lakes, the Arabian Peninsula of the long journey melted away. toes buried in the powdery sand. remote tiny islands, and our first holiday Safaris are exhilarating and exhausting and Indian subcontinent made it an It is impossible not to smile and As night descended, the mystery together was to the unspoiled haven of in equal measure. Having been up at 5am important base for gold, ivory and slave feel uplifted when faced with such of where we would dine would Bird Island and the rain forests of Praslin most mornings in the previous weeks to traders from Persia and Arabia. stunning beauty. unfold as Tumaini, who minded us in the Seychelles. When I was pregnant capture those magical dawn moments, After landing at Zanzibar airport on Mike Kelly, the lodge manager, throughout our stay, escorted us with my son Dara we returned to La Digue myself and Dara were dreaming of our the main island of Unguja, we drove gently suggested that we leave our to a candlelit table in the forest or where the only form of transport was ox- final few days by the sea – a real bush for a couple of hours through the spice shoes with the staff as he took us along a stretch of deserted beach. 118 IRISH TATLER JULY 2015 JULY2015 IRISH TATLER 119 irishtatlertravel Room with a view… the ocean breeze provides all the air conditioning you need in your banda (beach villa) at Mnemba. The rooms and bathrooms “The moment you set are designed to bring the outside in with lots of open walls, rattan foot on the island, time matting, wooden walkways and overstuffed armchairs and sofas – ceases to be relevant” perfect for letting the sound of the waves sooth you to sleep beneath swathes of mosquito netting nemba, like all properties in the andBeyond collection of African and Indian lodges, camps and safaris, takes conservation seriously and works closely with local schools on eco- Mprojects and wildlife preservation. The tiny green turtle visits every year to lay her eggs above the high tide after the sun goes down. The island is home to two species of crab – saltwater ghost crabs who scurry along the sand and the black-back freshwater crabs who inhabit the forest and love to clamour under the boards to join you for a hot shower in the evening. Dwarf geckos and tropical house geckos adorn the walls and are completely harmless. In the fragrant pine forest at the heart of the island, you will find two of the rarest antelopes in East Africa, suni deer and Ader’s duiker. Mnemba is an atoll surrounded by a coral reef with over 400 species of fish and amazing residents. The warm equatorial waters are home to dolphins (bottlenose, spinner and common) and humpback whales swim past on their migratory routes. During the first months of the year, the world’s largest fish, the gigantic whale sharks, is a regular visitor; while whitetip reef shark and schools of hammerhead sharks are also drawn to the coral reef occasionally. disappearing into the coral. Dara’s island paradise has boasted some We ventured out on hot afternoons to snorkel the reef and list of “must see” of the sea included very famous guests including Bill Prices for four nights at Mnemba floated for hours gazing at the abundance of tropical fish Dining with a difference: the island the haughty emperor angelfish and Gates (who took over the whole Island start from €2,855 per person allows for some amazing locations for the extraordinary Picasso triggerfish island for his family), Tom Cruise, – a sea safari with wonders to rival the many land animals dinner, all tailored to your every whim with Mahlatini Travel. we had viewed over the previous weeks in the Serengeti. – he got to tick them off. For me I Rod Stewart, Liam Neeson Naomi Mnemba Island is offered on an all- Over time we began to recognise the regulars of the reef loved the feminine powder blue Campbell, Paul McCartney and inclusive basis. This also includes activities – the stripes and pursed lips of the disapproving Moorish surgeonfish, the yummy sounding a plethora of royals. For us mere such as scuba diving (two dives per day), idol darting between the innocent looking chocolate-dip chromis and the mortals, it was incredible to live out snorkelling, kayaking, flyfishing, sundowner Zanzibar butterfly fish with its distinctive bluestripe snapper. We returned the fantasy of living on our own dhow cruise, and windsurfing. A seven- singular spot, so different from the wrinkled and satiated after each tropical island with all the luxurious night safari and beach package including racier vagabond butterflyfish.
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