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Contents

Introduction ...... 4

Chapter 1 All about paint ...... 5 Chapter 2 Brush-painting ...... 12 Chapter 3 Airbrushing and spray-painting ...... 16 Chapter 4 Multicolor paint schemes ...... 28 Chapter 5 Decals and dry transfers ...... 33 Chapter 6 Weathering with paint ...... 43 Chapter 7 Weathering with chalk ...... 49 Chapter 8 Weathering freight cars ...... 53 Chapter 9 Weathering locomotives ...... 65 Chapter 10 Structures and figures ...... 76

List of manufacturers ...... 86

About the author ...... 87 10 11 This spray booth from Paasche is large enough to hold most The BearAir Polar Bear (model 1000) is a solid, basic-level models. The exhaust fan and ductwork are out of sight at the compressor. It has a built-in regulator and a moisture trap. rear.

12 13 14 The air regulator allows you to adjust Cans of propellant are expensive, and it’s Use a filter when using a siphon cap on air pressure, and the moisture trap difficult to regulate the air flow because a bottle. Stainless-steel filters work well, filters out water before it reaches your of varying pressure as the can is used. but they require cleaning after each use. airbrush.

keeps any water (formed when air Preparation is compressed) from reaching your Start by mixing your paint. It’s airbrush and model. important that paint be thin enough to If you plan to do a lot of painting, flow easily through the openings in the consider spending the extra money for airbrush. (The chart on page 11 lists a silent compressor. Although more recommended mixing ratios and air expensive, as the name implies, they are pressure for various brands of paint.) very quiet, making about as much noise Shake the bottle or stir the paint as a refrigerator. to mix it. Some modelers recommend Small cans of propellant, such as stirring paint instead of shaking it to 15 Badger Propel, are handy and portable, eliminate the air bubbles that often but they are a very expensive air source, occur when shaking acrylics. I don’t Small pieces of pantyhose, held over the 13. Cans will only last for a couple find it to be much of a problem (just siphon tube with small rubber bands, models’ worth of painting, and the wait a few minutes after shaking to do serve as cheap, disposable filters. pressure will vary depending on usage. anything with the paint), and I find

20 3"-6" Stop spraying only when airbrush Start spraying is past model with airbrush to one side of model

Move airbrush parallel to model with steady, even motion

16 This illustration shows the basic airbrush painting stroke, which begins and stops off the model for more consistent coverage.

17 18 Each airbrush stroke should slightly overlap the previous one. You can use a hair dryer to speed drying time with acrylics, as I The paint should stay wet on the surface briefly after spraying. am doing with the acrylic clear coat on this boxcar. that shaking mixes the paint more When spraying acrylics, use only spray booth. When you’re done with thoroughly. the large tip. The higher surface one, you simply throw it away. If you need to add thinner, do it in tension of water compared to most I generally prefer to use a color cup. a separate jar, using an eyedropper or solvents means that it takes more I find this makes cleanup easier, and the pipette to transfer the paint and thinner. pressure to spray water-based paints cup allows you to easily transfer paint I keep a supply of empty 1- and 2-ounce than solvent-based paints. Using small from the bottle to the cup with a pipette bottles on hand for this (which you can nozzles greatly increases the chance or eyedropper. This tends to eliminate get at art supply stores and hobby shops). that the airbrush will clog. Even when any paint particulates or lets you see Mix only the amount of paint you need airbrushing lacquers, it’s not necessary them before they wind up in the cup. for each session, and make sure the paint to use the smaller tips—they are is thoroughly mixed. designed primarily for painting fine Getting a smooth finish Get your airbrush ready. I’m using lines and details. Set your air supply to the desired a Paasche H here, but the techniques Another key to preventing clogging pressure, and then make sure the needle remain the same regardless of the is to filter the paint or use a filter is closed all the way. While aiming at airbrush. Select the proper nozzle and on the siphon tube. You can buy a scrap piece, press the trigger to start needle combination. Most airbrushes commercial mesh filters, 14, but I like the air flow. While holding the trigger have three sizes—small, medium, and to use small pieces of pantyhose held down, slowly open the needle until the large—indicated by number or letter. in place with a rubber band (the small paint begins to flow. When the paint For the Paasche, the sizes are 1 (small), kind used for orthodontic devices), 15. begins to flow smoothly, you’re ready to 3 (medium), and 5 (large). I keep a supply of these on hand by the begin painting.

21 10 11 Carefully poke any bubbles where the decal film didn’t adhere Reapply Micro-Sol to the areas that didn’t adhere properly. properly to the model.

12 13 Repeat the bubble poking/setting solution process until the Even with the decal firmly on the model, the clear film is still decal has completely adhered to the surface. visible under certain lighting. about a minute. During this time, the paintbrush, tweezers, toothpick, or your decal, meaning another application of decal will release itself from the paper. fingers. If using tweezers or other sharp Micro Set, or you could get towel fuzz With heavier decals, such as tools, be careful to avoid tearing the or other debris on the decal. Champion and Walthers, you can allow decal or marring the surface. Next, use a brush to add a stronger the decal to float in the water until Once the decal is on the model, use decal solution, such as Micro-Sol, 9. the paper floats off. These decals are a toothpick or brush to place it into its Lightly touch the brush to the edges of sturdy enough to move without their final position, 7. If it starts to stick, add the decal and let capillary action pull backing paper. However, I find it easier more Micro Set—don’t try to force the the fluid under the film. to keep the decal on the paper when decal into moving, or you might tear If you bump the decal out of place, transferring it to the model. It makes it. Make sure it is straight and properly try repositioning it quickly with the the decal easier to position. placed—follow rivet lines or other brush. If that doesn’t work, use another Paint a puddle of Micro Set onto details as reference points. brush to flood the area immediately the model where the decal will go. Once you have positioned the with water. This will stop the action of Micro Set is a weak setting solution decal, the best thing to do is to just the solution. that softens the decal a bit but still let it sit until the Micro Set and water Once the setting solution is applied allows you to move the decal without evaporate. However, you can use the and the decal is in position, leave the damaging it. corner of a paper towel to blot the decal alone. Once the strong solution Slide the decal from the backing liquid away, 8. There are two risks with has begun to work, attempting to paper onto the model, 6. You can use a this: you could accidentally move the move the decal will likely tear it. The

36 14 15 Spraying a light coat of clear finish on the model makes the Start by sliding the decal stripe into the general area. Use film virtually disappear. plenty of Micro Set.

16 17 Use a brush to set the stripe into its final position. Sight down The finished striping looks as if it’s been painted on. the model to check alignment. decal may appear to wrinkle, but this photos show, makes the decal film all details such as a batten strip on a is normal. Move on to the next decal, but invisible. diesel locomotive side, you’ll have to and when they’re all in place, set the If I have several models to clear- trim them right to the edge of the model aside until it is dry. coat, I’ll generally fire up my airbrush stripe. Once a decal dries, there might be and use Model Master flat clear acrylic The example shows an HO a few air bubbles or shiny areas where (no. 2015). If I have just one or two Stewart F unit being decorated for the the decal didn’t properly adhere to the models, I’ll use a spray can. My favorite Chicago, Burlington & Quincy using model, 10. Use a sharp knife to poke spray finishes are Model Master Semi- a Microscale decal sheet, but the same these areas, reapply the decal solution Gloss Clear Lacquer (1959), Model techniques apply for most situations. over the surface of the decal, 11, and Master Flat Clear Lacquer (1960), and Dip the decal in water. Long stripes then allow it to dry. Repeat this process Krylon clear matte. A very light coat is tend to curl when first placed in water. until no bubbles remain, 12. When done all that’s needed. It’s okay to let them do this, but don’t properly, this process makes the letters let the decal float off the paper—it will and graphics appear painted on, even Decal stripes become a tangled mess. Pull the decal over surface irregularities such as rivets. Narrow stripes are the toughest decals from the water and hold it flat on a Since the decal has a different sheen to apply. Stripes are the one type of paper towel until it’s ready to come off compared to the paint, the decal film decal where, if possible, you want to the backing paper. will still be visible, 13. Applying a coat leave some clear film on either side of Make sure that the entire application of clear finish to the model will solve the stripe. The wider decals are more area on the model is liberally soaked this and complete the job, 14. The stable and easier to apply. However, with Micro Set, 15. Slide the stripe clear finish seals the decals and, as the if you’re trying to place them atop from the backing paper onto the model,

37 10 11 When dry, the wash color highlights cracks and other recessed Washes can also be applied to smooth surfaces having details, areas and is also pronounced around rivets and other raised as on this HO Athearn car. The wash color stands out around details. the vertical ribs and door details.

12 13 Some old cars have an overall grimy cast that makes it difficult Apply weathering sprays in very light coats to build up effects to even read the lettering. gradually.

If you apply a wash and don’t like Among the most common—and limited. Set the air pressure and make its effect, you can usually remove it by effective—uses of a weathering spray sure the nozzle is closed. Aiming at immediately getting the model under are for locomotive exhaust stains (see a plain piece of cardstock, push the warm running water and scrubbing it chapter 9 for several examples) and trigger and slowly open the nozzle with a soft-bristled toothbrush. Do this for overall dust, grime, and grunge until the mix begins to flow. Use short before the wash has a chance to dry. effects on locomotives, freight cars, and bursts on the model, again making sure Washes can be built up in layers, so structures, 12. you apply the mix in thin coats. remember that you’ll have more control A double-action airbrush works best Thinned rust colors can be sprayed over the final results if you apply two for weathering with thin mixes. To do on trucks, couplers, and other rusted or three light coats instead of one this, dial the pressure to about 15 psi. areas. Thinned earth-tone colors create heavy wash. Push the trigger to start the air flow, dust effects on trucks, underframes, Once you’re done weathering a and gradually pull back the trigger and the lower sides of locomotives and model, give it a coat of clear finish. until the mix just begins to flow, 13. freight cars. Don’t apply too much at once. Back Another effective use of over- Weathering oversprays off and let the first coat dry (use a spraying is to fade lettering. To do this, If you have an airbrush, thinned paint hairdryer to speed the process) before airbrush a thinned mix of the freight mixes are an excellent way to create adding more. Keep building the effects car color over the lettering in thin coats many weathering effects. Mix paint in in thin coats and take your time, 14. until you achieve the desired effect. the same way as for a wash: one part You can also use a single-action You can also use oversprays to create paint to around eight parts thinner. brush, but your control will be more the effect of faded paint as seen on the

46 14 15 A weathering spray of grimy black or mixed black and grimy When new in the late 1960s, this Great Northern wood chip black works well for creating an overall grungy look on a car was a bright shade of Big Sky Blue. By 1994, it had faded model. considerably.

16 17 The faded paint effect on this N scale Great Northern wood Many older freight cars, like this Cotton Belt boxcar, have chip car was created with a thinned white overspray. The car numerous rust spots where paint and lettering have completely also received some rust-color drybrushing. worn away. prototype wood chip car in photo 15. application—which gives you a great Squeeze a bit of each color onto a A thinned mix of white, antique white, deal of working time compared to piece of scrap plastic and mix a bit of or light gray, sprayed over the surface, conventional model paints. each color together with a toothpick, will lighten paint and make it look as if Oil paints are especially effective at 19. This provides a good variety of it’s faded, 16. Once again, airbrush the re-creating the rust patches and streaks colors. mix in thin coats to build up the effect often found on older freight cars like Use a fine brush to paint patches of you’re looking for. the Cotton Belt boxcar in photo 17, rust on the model, using burnt sienna Weathering sprays work well in and the rust-colored streaks that wash and burnt umber for the darker areas, conjunction with other weathering down the sides of cars from rust on the 20. Raw umber works well for large effects, such as drybrushing, washes, roof or door tracks, 18. You can apply streaks of lighter rust, or for areas and chalks, and can be effective at the paints with a brush, use them as where Mother Nature has washed rust blending multiple weathering effects washes, or combine the techniques to colors over the paint and lettering. The together. vary the effects. thickness of the oil paint provides a bit You’ll find five basic colors come in of texture that makes rust effects more Oil paint weathering handy for oil paint weathering: burnt realistic. You can use artist’s oil colors (in tubes) umber, burnt sienna, and raw umber You can add washes in two to create many weathering effects. for rust, along with Mars Black and ways. First, take a wide, flat brush Oil paints dry slowly—a day or more, titanium white (which can be mixed dampened with mineral spirits. Stroke depending upon the thickness of to make any shade of gray) for grime. the brush downward over the areas

47 33 This HO scale Proto 2000 0-6-0 switcher is a nicely detailed model, but it needs some weathering to tone down the dark black paint and metallic running gear.

Decal upgrades With factory-painted models, herald under the cab window I made another decal a hatch on the nose next to always keep an eye out for was incorrect—the propor- upgrade to an HO Proto the headlight. Microscale set ways to upgrade with decals. tions of the lettering and bor- 2000 E8 shell also painted for 87-527 includes outlines for I had an older Kato HO GP35 der were off by quite a bit. It the Burlington. Many proto- these. Apply them as shown, painted for the Burlington was an easy matter to cut a type passenger E locomotives and when the decal dries, the Route. The paint scheme new herald from a Microscale had their multiple-unit (m.u.) thin black lines look like the itself was nicely done, but the decal set and apply it. cable sockets hidden under outline of the hatch doors.

The Microscale decal at right was far more accurate than Nose-hatch decals can be applied on either side of the the factory-painted herald on the Kato shell. headlight.

Add the herald as you would any other decal. The finished decals look like the outline of the nose m.u. hatches. The model also received new number boards.

73 12 13 Give wood parts a coat of primer before painting the final This HO interlocking tower from American Model Builders is color. This is common latex primer. painted white with boxcar red stairs.

14 Weathered wood, as on this HO trestle, ranges from light and dark gray to brown to black. a hobby knife. Paint as many items as light coats. Don’t apply the paint too prefer artist’s tube acrylics mixed with possible before you assemble the kit. heavily, or the wood pieces will tend water, 15. Wood tends to weather I like to give all wood parts a coat of to warp or bow. If this happens, add toward gray, but it can have tinges of latex primer, 12. This helps keep wood additional interior bracing during red and brown. Treated lumber (ties, grain or other imperfections from assembly. A completed American trestle timber, utility poles) often starts showing through, and makes it easier Model Builders interlocking tower is out dark gray (sometimes almost black) to get an even coat of the final color. shown in photo 13. and weathers toward brown, medium Painting both sides with primer limits In many cases, you want to replicate gray, and light gray. warping. the effect of weathered, unpainted To make a stain, put a dab of color Once the primer is dry, paint the wood, as on the trestle in photo 14. in a recessed area of a small aluminum finish color with either an airbrush or Making a stain from thinned washes tray or palette, add water, and mix with paintbrush. It’s best to apply several of acrylic paint work well for this. I a stir stick or large toothpick. Having

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