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View a Portion of This Product Contents Introduction .......................... 4 Chapter 1 All about paint ........................ 5 Chapter 2 Brush-painting ....................... 12 Chapter 3 Airbrushing and spray-painting .......... 16 Chapter 4 Multicolor paint schemes ............... 28 Chapter 5 Decals and dry transfers................ 33 Chapter 6 Weathering with paint ................. 43 Chapter 7 Weathering with chalk ................. 49 Chapter 8 Weathering freight cars ................ 53 Chapter 9 Weathering locomotives................ 65 Chapter 10 Structures and figures ................. 76 List of manufacturers .................. 86 About the author ..................... 87 10 11 This spray booth from Paasche is large enough to hold most The BearAir Polar Bear (model 1000) is a solid, basic-level models. The exhaust fan and ductwork are out of sight at the compressor. It has a built-in regulator and a moisture trap. rear. 12 13 14 The air regulator allows you to adjust Cans of propellant are expensive, and it’s Use a filter when using a siphon cap on air pressure, and the moisture trap difficult to regulate the air flow because a bottle. Stainless-steel filters work well, filters out water before it reaches your of varying pressure as the can is used. but they require cleaning after each use. airbrush. keeps any water (formed when air Preparation is compressed) from reaching your Start by mixing your paint. It’s airbrush and model. important that paint be thin enough to If you plan to do a lot of painting, flow easily through the openings in the consider spending the extra money for airbrush. (The chart on page 11 lists a silent compressor. Although more recommended mixing ratios and air expensive, as the name implies, they are pressure for various brands of paint.) very quiet, making about as much noise Shake the bottle or stir the paint as a refrigerator. to mix it. Some modelers recommend Small cans of propellant, such as stirring paint instead of shaking it to 15 Badger Propel, are handy and portable, eliminate the air bubbles that often but they are a very expensive air source, occur when shaking acrylics. I don’t Small pieces of pantyhose, held over the 13. Cans will only last for a couple find it to be much of a problem (just siphon tube with small rubber bands, models’ worth of painting, and the wait a few minutes after shaking to do serve as cheap, disposable filters. pressure will vary depending on usage. anything with the paint), and I find 20 3"-6" Stop spraying only when airbrush Start spraying is past model with airbrush to one side of model Move airbrush parallel to model with steady, even motion 16 This illustration shows the basic airbrush painting stroke, which begins and stops off the model for more consistent coverage. 17 18 Each airbrush stroke should slightly overlap the previous one. You can use a hair dryer to speed drying time with acrylics, as I The paint should stay wet on the surface briefly after spraying. am doing with the acrylic clear coat on this boxcar. that shaking mixes the paint more When spraying acrylics, use only spray booth. When you’re done with thoroughly. the large tip. The higher surface one, you simply throw it away. If you need to add thinner, do it in tension of water compared to most I generally prefer to use a color cup. a separate jar, using an eyedropper or solvents means that it takes more I find this makes cleanup easier, and the pipette to transfer the paint and thinner. pressure to spray water-based paints cup allows you to easily transfer paint I keep a supply of empty 1- and 2-ounce than solvent-based paints. Using small from the bottle to the cup with a pipette bottles on hand for this (which you can nozzles greatly increases the chance or eyedropper. This tends to eliminate get at art supply stores and hobby shops). that the airbrush will clog. Even when any paint particulates or lets you see Mix only the amount of paint you need airbrushing lacquers, it’s not necessary them before they wind up in the cup. for each session, and make sure the paint to use the smaller tips—they are is thoroughly mixed. designed primarily for painting fine Getting a smooth finish Get your airbrush ready. I’m using lines and details. Set your air supply to the desired a Paasche H here, but the techniques Another key to preventing clogging pressure, and then make sure the needle remain the same regardless of the is to filter the paint or use a filter is closed all the way. While aiming at airbrush. Select the proper nozzle and on the siphon tube. You can buy a scrap piece, press the trigger to start needle combination. Most airbrushes commercial mesh filters, 14, but I like the air flow. While holding the trigger have three sizes—small, medium, and to use small pieces of pantyhose held down, slowly open the needle until the large—indicated by number or letter. in place with a rubber band (the small paint begins to flow. When the paint For the Paasche, the sizes are 1 (small), kind used for orthodontic devices), 15. begins to flow smoothly, you’re ready to 3 (medium), and 5 (large). I keep a supply of these on hand by the begin painting. 21 10 11 Carefully poke any bubbles where the decal film didn’t adhere Reapply Micro-Sol to the areas that didn’t adhere properly. properly to the model. 12 13 Repeat the bubble poking/setting solution process until the Even with the decal firmly on the model, the clear film is still decal has completely adhered to the surface. visible under certain lighting. about a minute. During this time, the paintbrush, tweezers, toothpick, or your decal, meaning another application of decal will release itself from the paper. fingers. If using tweezers or other sharp Micro Set, or you could get towel fuzz With heavier decals, such as tools, be careful to avoid tearing the or other debris on the decal. Champion and Walthers, you can allow decal or marring the surface. Next, use a brush to add a stronger the decal to float in the water until Once the decal is on the model, use decal solution, such as Micro-Sol, 9. the paper floats off. These decals are a toothpick or brush to place it into its Lightly touch the brush to the edges of sturdy enough to move without their final position, 7. If it starts to stick, add the decal and let capillary action pull backing paper. However, I find it easier more Micro Set—don’t try to force the the fluid under the film. to keep the decal on the paper when decal into moving, or you might tear If you bump the decal out of place, transferring it to the model. It makes it. Make sure it is straight and properly try repositioning it quickly with the the decal easier to position. placed—follow rivet lines or other brush. If that doesn’t work, use another Paint a puddle of Micro Set onto details as reference points. brush to flood the area immediately the model where the decal will go. Once you have positioned the with water. This will stop the action of Micro Set is a weak setting solution decal, the best thing to do is to just the solution. that softens the decal a bit but still let it sit until the Micro Set and water Once the setting solution is applied allows you to move the decal without evaporate. However, you can use the and the decal is in position, leave the damaging it. corner of a paper towel to blot the decal alone. Once the strong solution Slide the decal from the backing liquid away, 8. There are two risks with has begun to work, attempting to paper onto the model, 6. You can use a this: you could accidentally move the move the decal will likely tear it. The 36 14 15 Spraying a light coat of clear finish on the model makes the Start by sliding the decal stripe into the general area. Use film virtually disappear. plenty of Micro Set. 16 17 Use a brush to set the stripe into its final position. Sight down The finished striping looks as if it’s been painted on. the model to check alignment. decal may appear to wrinkle, but this photos show, makes the decal film all details such as a batten strip on a is normal. Move on to the next decal, but invisible. diesel locomotive side, you’ll have to and when they’re all in place, set the If I have several models to clear- trim them right to the edge of the model aside until it is dry. coat, I’ll generally fire up my airbrush stripe. Once a decal dries, there might be and use Model Master flat clear acrylic The example shows an HO a few air bubbles or shiny areas where (no. 2015). If I have just one or two Stewart F unit being decorated for the the decal didn’t properly adhere to the models, I’ll use a spray can. My favorite Chicago, Burlington & Quincy using model, 10. Use a sharp knife to poke spray finishes are Model Master Semi- a Microscale decal sheet, but the same these areas, reapply the decal solution Gloss Clear Lacquer (1959), Model techniques apply for most situations. over the surface of the decal, 11, and Master Flat Clear Lacquer (1960), and Dip the decal in water. Long stripes then allow it to dry. Repeat this process Krylon clear matte.
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