BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

ISSUE #7, FALL 2014

A GEM OF A COLLECTION

GRAND SPECTACLE INSIDE CUTLER AND GROSS

BOLLYWOOD CRUSH HONOURING AWARD WINNING DESIGNERS

DIScONNECT FASHION FILM FESTIVAL

GLOBETROTTING: BERLIN DRAWING ON THE SIDELINES: DANIELLE MEDER ON FASHION ILLUSTRATION

The Canadian Alliance of Film & Television Costume Arts & Design Thanking ’s film indusTry for The many years of conTinued supporT.

a proud member of iaTse local 873.

682 Queen Street WeSt toronto, Canada M6J 1e5 tel (416) 603-3369 www.shopsydneys.com BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.3 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 BOLLYWOOD Bring it. People breaking out to dance black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s – a like Tasmanian devils, anywhere, any- dress from which a trillion LBDs flow – CRUSH time? Signed, sealed, delivered, dunzo. it’s important to remember that what The extent to which I “read” clothes is now considered capital-C Classic By Shinan Govani on film has, unsurprisingly, also been was actually revolutionary for the time. informed by my earliest cinema- Though a style favoured to some extent Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby intake, even if in contrast to, at times. in the 1920s, by the 50s “only the bitches swooped into theatres a couple years Meandering across the mountain range wore black,” as film writer, Sam Wasson, back – arriving, indubitably, to a surfeit of mainstream movies, I see that, much has noted. Exhibit A: Bette Davis as All About Eve of adjectives that protested its pomp like Hollywood’s penchant for low-carb, Margo Channing, in . By and its grandiosity. Going by my lone- the thrall for “realism” continues – a the time Audrey – wholesome Audrey some, one afternoon, to watch the film mania that actually began in earnest - became associated with the colour in that at least one critic had described as the day Marlon Brando showed up in her eternal outing as Holly Golightly, the a “high-school costume party on prom a tight, sticky, stand-alone, outerwear colour black, with all its insinuations of night invaded by Cirque du Soleil”, I sat T-shirt (just the thing for accentuating power and sexual knowing, had pulled back, slurped it in, and was progressively his miracle torso and rippling biceps). off a giant fashion ruse. Glamour had confused: wait...what was so OTT about On Broadway, and then in the movie ver- been redefined, and, best of all, the LBD this? sion of A Streetcar Named Desire, his feral was “easy to emulate: any young woman The colourful costumes, sumptuous portrayal of Stanley Kowalski would not in 1961 could make or even afford to party scenes, the high-on-something be complete without that tee, his street- buy one (and did they ever),” as Wasson cinematography...it all distinctly re- wise exhibitionism being telegraphed for goes on. So what if it wasn’t Givenchy, minded me of something. Minus the 3D the ages in that he-man garment. As a “any little black little dress would do the hijinks, it was kinda like every Saturday film aficionado, I’m down with that genre trick...that was the beauty of it.” And, as night in my childhood stead. Growing of uncomplicated threads – my favourite far as the vernacular of fashion-in-film up on a steady diet of Bollywood films – flick of the year is even the gloriously goes, it was as much an act of imagina- where suspension of reality was not only too-real Boyhood – but can’t help but tion, and not simply sticking to the script. de rigueur, but compulsory – nothing in feel that movies, these days, could also In its own way, Audrey traipsing Baz-world had ever cowed me, and this use a corresponding blast of make- around in her LBD was, and continues carnival of flappers was hardly going believe. Except in superhero movies, and to be, every bit as radical as one of the to be the first time. A few scenes in, it the odd period piece, we really don’t get sari-clad phantoms of my youth. Both of was further confirmed that this film was much of that. them, entwined forever in the eye of my perhaps nothing but F. Scott Fitzgerald In Hollywood, like Bollywood, it used imagination. Shinan Govani is the author of Boldface in Bollywood drag: an actual Indian icon to be that clothes didn’t just service the Names, a well-travelled bon vivant and the - Amitabh Bachchan, who’s a mega-star story, but the story very often flowed social columnist for Hello! Canada. among mega-stars on the sub-continent from the clothes. Even in the now iconic - showed up in the role of the gangster. example of Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy He had apparently been hand picked for the role by Luhrmann. Wink, wink. The Eye has to Travel. Diana Vreeland’s most famous dictum - a how-to thesis, essentially, on crafting an aesthetic, courtesy of the legendary Vogue editor. I’ve long subscribed to that idea, but believe strongly that where the eye starts is equally as, if not more, important. Though my own cinematic absorption would rove and flower over the decades, and my taste now also extends to direc- tors such as Britain’s Mike Leigh and the late French auteur, Eric Rohmer – mini- malists, both – there’s a part of my pal- ette that can’t escape the more-is-more declarations of my Bollywood youth. Melodrama? Check. Unrequited love? BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

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DESIGNER GENEROSITY: The monetary award allows a designer the foundation with 60 million dol- THE PHILANTHROPIC to pursue an inspired project in their lars over a 10-year period to serve as field, ‘for the love of creation’. Dr. Virginia a matching fund to donation amounts STYLE OF THE Cooper, for whom the award is named, from the private sector. There is also a ONTARIO ARTS served as a director of the Tarragon federal government matching program FOUNDATION Theatre. She had a particular interest through Canadian Heritage. “Lots of in costume design, and was creating a arts organizations like the certainty of By Kim Harkness book titled “Pins and Needles”, which receiving endowment income every year. documented dresses that her mother, The income is unrestricted and they Is there a costume inspired artistic proj- Myrtle Cooper, designed and made for can determine where to use it that best ect you’ve always wanted to undertake her. meets the needs of the organization that if you had the time and funds to do so? The OAF is an organization that year. Unlike a grant, there is no annual What if, midway through your career you manages endowments for arts organiza- application process,” says Alan Walker, were awarded a nice sum of money to tions in Ontario and funds created by Executive Director of the OAF. “There are explore that thing you’ve always been generous philanthropists and patrons of not many comparable organizations like curious about but keep putting off? The the arts that support artists by assist- the OAF in Canada.” Bandhani Tie-Dying technique of India? ing their creative endeavours through The OAF has an endowment fund that Beaded moccasin slippers made by the awards and scholarships. Established contributes to the Canadian Film Centre, Dene in the North West Territories? The in 1991 the OAF is a nongovernmental a launching pad for many directors, writ- Ontario Arts Foundation (OAF) provides foundation that holds over 300 en- ers, and producers in the Canadian film such an opportunity. Every other year dowments and funds established by industry. They also award four graduat- the OAF awards the Virginia and Myrtle individuals, private foundations, corpo- ing students from Sheridan College, who Cooper Award to a Costume Designer rations and arts organizations. When receive an award from the William and in Film and Television. (It oscillates the organization came about 22 years Mary Corcoran Craft Fund which recog- between theatre and film designers.) ago, the Ontario government provided nizes achievement to students working BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.5 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 in textiles, furniture, glass and ceramics. LETTER FROM THE Editor-in-Chief The OAF works closely with the PRESIDENT JOANNA Loretta Chin Ontario Arts Council (OAC) and has a Story & Copy Editor long list of awards that are available to a SYROKOMLA Kim Harkness wide range of artists across media. Visit Art & Layout Urs Dierker their website www.ontarioartsfounda- The relationship be- Advertising tion.on.ca for more information on how tween film costumery Karen Lee the OAF might have an award for you. and fashion has always Photo Editor been cyclical where the Robyn Macdonald The OAF made a generous donation to runways inspire costume Graphic Design the CAFTCAD Celebrates Costumes 2014 design and costume Macroblu event held at the Spoke Club on September design inspires the latest trends. This Printer Harmony 9th, 2014. Fashion and Film issue of BeSpoke is Contributors: made possible by the dedicated mem- Lea Carlson bers and supporters who helm incred- Pasquale Casullo THE FASHION & FILM ible initiatives spanning the Costume 101 Loretta Chin ISSUE for Film & TV seminars, The Costume Anna Dal Farra Illustration courses, Breakdown courses, Urs Dierker Shinan Govani the bi-annual Movie Wardrobe Sales, Welcome to the Fall 2014 Fashion & Film Georgia Groom and the CAFTCAD Celebrates Costumes issue of BeSpoke, our magazine that Kim Harkness event during the Toronto International celebrates our alliance of 100 plus mem- Angela Koszuta Film Festival®. Branching out across Robyn Macdonald bers and showcases their talents, cre- Canada, we’re excited to team up with Brian A. Richards ativity and craft. Straddling the worlds Barbara Somerville Film Training Manitoba to present our of film, fashion and design, BeSpoke 2nd CAFTCADEMY Breakdown course features interesting and relevant stories Contact: instructed by Alex Kavanagh in Winnipeg on the work of both seasoned and neo- CAFTCAD in September. phyte talents. 65 Heward Ave Building C #223 A special thank you goes out to the Toronto ON M4M 2T5 With this issue we’ve outreached to the Ontario Arts Foundation for recognizing 416 900 0955 greater film and fashion community in [email protected] costume design excellence in film and Toronto, and invited a handful of guest [email protected] television with their Virginia and Myrtle writers to expand the conversation Cooper Award to costume designer that revolves around the relationship Anne Dixon this year. between clothes and the silver screen. As multi-media platforms prompt the convergence of daily reality with art, the landscape’s changed. Emerging from behind the scenes, CD’s are enlisted to create fashion collections inspired by their shows or features, websites can track what a star wears on a show, and stylists take their turn creating electricity on the red carpet or creating their own collections. The current zeitgeist is the synergy that exists between fashion and film – summer’s trending news story was HBO’s Orange is the New Black –forcing inmates back into prison stripes in one U.S. county. BeSpoke is your vehicle to create aware- ness for what we do at home and for the international community. We’d like to showcase the works of each and every one of you, so stay involved, reach out and let us know what you are doing. We hope you enjoy the issue! BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.6 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 WINNER’S CIRCLE: LEA CARLSON AND ANNE DIXON DISCUSS WINNING THE VIRGINIA AND MYRTLE COOPER AWARD IN COSTUME DESIGN By Lea Carlson

I think that it is incredibly touching of time and that someone had made narratives through their use of imagery that somebody thought enough of our me promise myself that I would take and symbolism. Jessie Oonark was a profession to bestow an endowment. the time to pursue a project that meant well-known native artist from Nunavut As costume designers it is rare, if ever, something personally and profession- who produced large scale works of this that we are in a position to initiate a ally. When I first sat down to write about nature utilizing traditional native sewing project completely of our own creation; what I would do if awarded the $15,000 techniques but depicting the intersec- our work is collaborative and our job is grant, I found the task daunting. I really tion between traditional native life about supporting a director’s vision. For wanted the project to be something that and aspects of Christianity brought by someone who is “mid career” it can be rang true to me, that would allow for me people from the south. Although she is the opportunity to take a breather and to visit a place that I wouldn’t otherwise deceased, work of this kind is still pro- get in touch with why we got into this have the opportunity to travel to. duced today at a co-op that she started field in the first place. I have always been interested in in Baker Lake, Nunavut. My proposal is Upon hearing that I had won this the production of narrative textiles, to take a trip to Baker Lake to visit the award, I felt like I had been given the gift works that present cultural and historic people that are still creating this work. BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.7 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014

Chilkat robes, the forests and the envi- ronment. I will be attending a number of workshops in mask making, weaving, life drawing, and painting which I have lined up. I will be going in the spring next year. Have you done any part of your pro- posal yet? I have already taken a number of draw- ing classes at the Toronto School of Art. I have also taken an intensive Photoshop workshop. I feel energized and inspired simply “For the Love of Creation” as Dr. Virginia S. Cooper mandated. Any other thoughts about the pro- cess of writing the proposal or the

Photo courtesy of the OAF: Lara Bryant / Sudz Sutherland /Anne Dixon/ Paula Devonshire award? This extraordinary award is incredible, it My interest in documentary photogra- explore the complex mythical stories, gives the capacity to a costume de- phy and filmmaking would be called on symbolic animal crests from totem signer to keep searching, expanding and to create a visual document exploring poles to elaborate painted cedar bark exploring the arts and its humanity. I am this art form along with my partner, who robes and contemporary translations extremely honoured and so very grateful is a cinematographer. of Dorothy Grant’s pulsating clothing to be this year’s recipient allowing me Below is a conversation with Anne designs. Then to Emily Carr and her dark to further develop my creative talents, Dixon, the 2014 winner of the Virginia rhythmic forests, vast spiritual skies and sow the seeds and nourish ideas and and Myrtle Cooper Award in Costume monumental totemic structures that em- designs. Design. body yet another view of the wild spirits Congratulations Anne! How do you of the West Coast. CAFTCAD congratulates both Lea Carlson feel about having won this award? After seeing it all first hand, with my (2011) and Anne Dixon (2014) on winning I am tremendously honoured, grateful own eyes, getting up close, breathing the Virginia and Myrtle Cooper Award in and thrilled to be this year’s recipient of it, and physically examining rare pieces Costume Design. the Virginia and Myrtle Cooper Award in from totem poles to carved masks and Costume Design. The generosity and the thoughtfulness of the late Dr. Virginia S. Cooper in establishing this award is When your technology is tailor made. incredible. The insight and the reason for the It’s always the perfect fit. award is outstanding and so thoroughly needed and appreciated for costume Digital marketing leaders supporting designers. The ability and the financial both independents and large corporations. resources to travel, research, nourish and replenish one’s creative juices is extremely exciting and invigorating. Did you have a sense, when you were first nominated what you wanted to do? Once nominated I knew exactly where I wanted to keep exploring and push- ing the boundaries creatively - the West Coast in BC. To experience the islands of Haida Gwaii and the rich history of the West Coast native art scene; the cultural richness of the diverse groups from Haida to Tlingit, Tsimshian, CONTACT US FOR A FREE CONSULTATION. | 905 747 0990 Kwakwaka’wakw and Coast Salish. To BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.8 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 WELL FRAMED: A CONVERSATION WITH MARIE WILKINSON By Loretta Chin

“I believe designing a frame is like de- “Over 8000 original frames were lost,” signing clothes,” says Marie Wilkinson, says Golta Mohammadi, the GM of both design director for the heritage opti- Toronto and NYC’s locations. cal brand, Cutler and Gross. Wilkinson Relocating this summer to 758 Queen knows, she has been with the London St. W., Wilkinson returned for the cel- based firm for 30 years, and began her ebratory opening of the new C&G flag- career at a time when opticians were ship. This time, she was wearing a lipstick required to know how to make frames. print candy floss coloured topper over Since 1969 the UK firm founded by a photo print dress from the S/S 2014 optometry school fellows Graham Cutler collection of UK designer GILES, who and Tony Gross, have been producing frequently collaborates with the brand. handcrafted frames that appeal to a Her frames – C&G ink. diverse array of clients, including the The new location is similar to the old, late Ava Gardner, Hugh Grant, Victoria a wee bit smaller but the rows of eye Beckham, Madonna, and Lady Gaga. candy are there. Bold, striking, updated Nicole Kidman wore a pair of C&G sun- retro shapes, rounded 70s styles and nies at Cannes this year, and Rhianna reflective mirrored sunnies, along with sported a pair front row at the Chanel new models that include novel materi- A/W 2014 collection. als and elements like palladium, silver Sir Elton John has in the realm of 32 and gold, a departure from the acetate pairs. “He never phones ahead, parks models the brand is known for. his Bentley outside the [Knightsbridge] A fitting area provides an intimate shop blocking traffic and pops in,” says setting to chat, have your frames fitted Wilkinson with a smile. A-lister or not, and perhaps consider the option of a “the brand does not gift their celebrity bespoke frame. The company is recog- clients glasses, they all buy them,” she nized for its custom service, which has adds. been used by eyewear enthusiasts and I’d first met the striking brunette with costume designers alike. Any number of a bob at the 2011 opening of the brand’s variations and personal touches from Toronto flagship shop – a first in North colour to shape can be incorporated to America. Row upon row of coloured create a one-of-a-kind frame. frames lined the shelves of the predomi- Cutler and Gross often partners with nantly white interior – creating a kaleido- both local and international designers scopic array of eye candy. and artists. There are design collabora- Her dress was elegant Brit wit de- tions with established fashion designers: Image courtesy of Cutler and Gross signer style - punctuated by a pair of GILES, Maison Martin Margiela, ex-pat signature Cutler and Gross specs. Were Canadian designers Erdem, Thomas Tait, sketch is translated to a paper cutout. they red or black? I don’t recall, but they and others - expect a men’s capsule “When we design the frame we incor- were there. As expected Wilkinson has launch by Margaret Howell F/W 2016. porate measurements for each of the a wardrobe of frames but I later learned In Toronto, their collections have sup- components…bridge, frame rim and only one pair of trousers – a concession ported runway presentations for up and temple in 3D” says Wilkinson, who likens to when she learned to fly, some years coming homegrown labels like Klaxon the process to “doing a toile for a frame.” ago. Howl, Beaufille, and a trio of collections The distinctive acetate frames, Since January 2014 that first location at Toronto’s first Men’s handmade in Cadore, Italy are made in Yorkville has been shuttered, following (TOM). as they were 40 years ago - each pair a massive three-alarm fire to the heri- Like ideas new frame riveted with pins and hinges affixed by tage building the shop had been housed shapes come from assorted inspirations hand. They take four weeks to make, in. The loss was devastating; the original - furniture, rare slices of film noir, and with 43 steps to completion, and can be shop was home to the largest archive the world at large. Similar to designing re-polished to renew their lustre. With of C&G eyewear outside of London. a garment, an idea is conceived and a a repertoire of styles numbering over a Stylist: Anna Dal Farra Photographer: Rino Noto BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.10 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 thousand, each is always referred For Gary Oldman in Tinker Tailor For Phillips latest project, a stylized es- to by its style number which is etched Soldier Spy. The actor deliberately chose pionage film rife with gentlemanly sarto- on one arm while the other bear’s the a vintage frame from the C&G archive. rial style, Wilkinson traveled to a “secret brand’s name - Cutler And Gross of “He made a thoughtful and connecting location in the south of France and one London in gold foil. decision on behalf of George Smiley and at Leavesden Studios in London” to fit Achieving cult status amongst eyewear when he put them on he became the lead Colin Firth for Kingsman: The Secret aficionados, C&G manages to bridge character,” says Wilkinson. Service. “I selected an edit of 36 frames the delicate gap between exclusivity From Michael Fassbender in The and from these he (Firth) and the direc- and inclusivity. I once boarded a flight to Counselor, to Anthony Hopkins as tor Matthew Vaughn made their final Brussels when the steward after greet- Hannibal Lector in a lime green pair in choice.” Wilkinson’s first time on a film ing me, complimented me on my glasses Silence of the Lambs, to Matt Damon’s set required she be deft in selecting the and then asked, “Are those the Cutler bookish model in The Talented Mr. Ripley, right pair – the frame plays a significant and Gross 1044’s?” They were. the brand has had many memorable role in one of the scenes. Bearing no visible logos, the state- star turns. Included in a capsule collection of ment frames are perfect for stylists or A favourite resource of CD Arianna clothing and accessories from the CDs who want a designer frame without Phillips, the two-time Oscar nominee prestigious British brands Phillip’s used going through legals for permission, used Cutler and Gross in Tom Ford’s to create the film’s wardrobe closet, or clients who prefer discrete luxury. debut film A Solitary Man and W.E. a film those same frames will be available on They’re also an invaluable resource for directed by Madonna. The CD who is Mr.Porter.com prior to the film’s release costume designers. “A frame helps the also the star’s long time stylist “bought October 24. person get into character and – having 50 pairs in different shades of tortoise poor eyesight informs your character,” shell for one look before the clothing Loretta Chin wears Cutler & Gross 1044’s says Wilkinson. was made,” says Wilkinson. in smoky quartz and 1013’s in ink. Stylist: Georgia Groom Photographer: Chris Steinbach Hair and Makeup: Anna Barsaghian BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.12 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 A GEM OF A COLLECTION: CAROLE TANENBAUM ON FILM, FASHION AND “FABULOUS FAKES” By Angela Koszuta

As a stylist for 25 years, it may sound un- thought outside the box and took me on usual that I’ve never had much of an af- as a department. Holt Renfrew branded finity for jewelry of any sort. I don’t even me the Carole Tanenbaum Vintage wear earrings. My daily adornment con- Collection. And so my passion turned sists of a classic men’s Rolex I purchased ultimately into a worldwide business. in a pawnshop at the age of 17. So when What jewelry designer(s) do you asked to interview one of the world’s most admire? leading collectors and retailers of fine My favorite designer is Henry Schreiner, vintage costume jewelry (VCJ) it didn’t a New York-based manufacturer. seem like a perfect pairing. But from the Presently I am working on a book with chic leather-trimmed A-line dress she Eve Townsend, illustrating about 500 ex- was sporting to the eclectic oversized amples of these objets d’arts. They are art on the walls, my first impression was Bakelite bracelets, Courtesy of Carole Tanenbaum original and unconventional and appeal that Carole Tanenbaum was a style force to the creative juices in me! We’re aim- project, it had its own dedicated display I could instantly relate to. ing for a spring 2015 release date. case. Schiaparelli, Givenchy, Haskell, In an era of fast-fashion and cheap When evaluating a piece, how do Armani, YSL, Dior, Henry Schreiner, baubles, VCJ has consistently upped its you determine make, pedigree and and many others represent a collec- cool quotient and become de rigueur. value? tion made up of approximately 35,000 While often thought of as the younger, Many of the vintage pieces are signed. pieces. Every door, drawer and cabinet less respected sister to fine gemstones, When they are not, there are character- opened to a magical display of the most the design and workmanship (often istics that define a designer - their sig- decorative accessories imaginable. handmade and signed by the artists) nature style, how they use the material, These were not pieces for the faint of that goes into these highly collectable their colour sense. In Vintage Costume heart. While the Carole Tanenbaum pieces can’t be denied. What started as Jewelry, construction is also key in identi- Vintage Collection may be a serious play- a necessity to work with whatever mate- fying a designer. er in the eclectic world of costume jew- rials were abundant and readily available What period/style of jewelry do you elry, the stunning pieces evoked a feeling - think chrome, Bakelite, aluminum and yourself favour? of happiness and, dare I say, giddiness in copper - created a “wow” factor by the I only buy what I love, despite trends in me. Frankly, when I left, I wondered why I scale of the items which often overshad- the market. I love the deco designs, the didn’t wear more jewelry. owed the craftmanship. Bakelite pieces of the 30s and the glam At what point did your passion for The level of detail and the sheer of the 50s. Dior, Coppola e Toppo, early costume jewelry morph into an ac- beauty of these objects are what first Hobe and Henry Schreiner are designers claimed brand? won Carole over in the late 70s. Her that continue to wow me. My business definitely started as a passion for collecting has since turned Is there one film or television series passion. My first exposure, in the late into a global brand that’s been carried in particular that you feel focuses 70s, hooked me. I saw a fabulous group at luxury retailers around the globe on and celebrates the magic of of jewelry in London, England and fell including Saks, Bergdorf’s and Barneys, beautiful jewels? Does the film do it in love. As an avid collector I bought while her book Fabulous Fakes remains a justice? whatever I loved. At the time the pickings must-have for stylists, costume design- I have supplied Chicago, The Devil Wears were vast as costume was still regarded ers and jewelry fans alike. Prada, television series Suits and Reign as “Grandma’s closet” or throwaways. Upon entering her flagship office and feel that the jewels set a mood of When I realized how quickly my collec- in Toronto it was love at first sparkle. the period and inform the audience in tion was growing I wanted to share my Custom built cabinets are divided by many subtle ways. A diamante necklace passion. I approached Holt’s thinking designer, style and era and then colour- indicates wealth, a brooch on a work- that they may give me a trunk show at coded to make things easy to find. ing girls jacket often reveals something the very most. However Joel Rath, presi- Having recently collaborated on a Chanel about that character. Certain films and dent at the time, loved the collection, BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.13 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014

collection of vintage Chanel jewelry for Final thoughts about particularly Cathay Pacific Airlines. This was the memorable clients? first time vintage was presented on any Jessica Lang bought Drew Barrymore a airline. I felt proud, if somewhat over- 1920s crystal necklace and her daughter whelmed. It was a huge success and we a Bakelite bangle. Beyoncé who collects set the bar! That is gratifying. Also, when Chanel bought from us via jpegs. We Cooper Hewitt Museum, New York had just finished working on the film cur- the Van Cleef and Arpels Exhibition, we rently called Crimson Peaks with Jessica provided their gift shop with vintage Chastain. She loved the pieces bought pieces that reflected this style and basi- for her in the movie and came here to cally sold out. do a personal shop. Richard Gere sent Have you ever designed your own his stylist to select 14 pieces for staff line of costume jewelry? and actors in Chicago. But the juiciest Although I am frequently asked to design story is that Sarah Jessica Parker wanted or partner in designing lines, I have virtu- to borrow a piece from my personal ally no interest. My love, my passion, is in collection to launch her perfume ad. She A Schreiner piece, courtesy of Carole Tanenbaum collecting. is wearing it in the launch. Press printed How would you describe your it over and over. And of course Michelle series get it just right. Downton Abbey clientele? Obama wore a brooch of ours for the and Mad Men are examples of getting My clientele is broad. I have 18-year- first inaugural on her yellow dress, again style and scale perfect. Other projects olds wanting to be chic. I have nostalgic very visible. such as The Great Gatsby (the remake) 80-year-olds wanting a memory of their Carole can be reached at www.carole- had me anticipating the “wow” factor but past. My clientele includes the very tanenbaum.com or through her U.S. repre- I left feeling disappointed. wealthy, but also the person who has sentative Ellen Carey in New York. Are there any projects you have to sacrifice for a piece, or pay in install- Angela Koszuta is a veteran stylist and worked on, that you are particularly ments. As we sell to 40 venues all over the “Shop Like a Pro” columnist for The proud of? Canada, the US, Europe and Asia, it is Toronto Star. I was recently asked by Asian Inflight hard to gauge where our mean age or Services to put together a large socioeconomic market actually is. JEAN LUC GODARD – STYLE By Pasquale Casullo

When Jean Luc Godard, French film’s ter- rible child, set sail on directing his first Nouvelle Vague film, À bout de souffle (Breathless) in 1960, he hadn’t any intent on creating a tsunami in women’s fashion. But, that he did. Godard said, “All you need for a film is a girl and a gun,” explaining his Cahiers du Cinema theory, a theory that was based on going Film Socialisme Courtesy of TIFF Film Reference Library against any and every tired Hollywood filming practice – fashion, of course, be- in À bout de souffle, to wear their own seen on well-dressed women in every ing one Hollywood thing that the direc- clothes that reflected their characters. city, on runway shows, and in fashion tor didn’t deliberate over. Actress Jean Seberg’s innocent gamine magazine editorials. With a tiny production budget Godard look: a cropped blonde pixie haircut, A new wave of French style came into didn’t have extra francs to spend on pegged black pants, ballet flats, and play. something as extravagant as a costume A-line dresses, became iconic in a flash. designer. He simply advised the actors The looks are still style references today, Con’t on page 16. BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

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SOME OF THE GREAT PRODUCTIONS THAT BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

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CAFTCAD MEMBERS HAVE WORKED ON… BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

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Con’t from page 13 À bout de souffle was released, Ellen designer. Yet, the films are still sensi- Von Unwerth photographed Christy tive to the character’s clothing. TIFF Bell The look was simple, somewhat child- Turlington in Seberg’s wardrobe from Lightbox hosts the second part of ret- ish, somewhat sultry, and always chic. the film – right down to that longed-for rospective (Oct 3 – Dec 20) with Godard Godard’s influence on cinematographic New York Herald Tribune t-shirt. Forever: Part II, covering the director’s and fashion design is everywhere. Fashion houses are using the direc- films from 1970s onward. The films are Also in À bout de souffle, Seberg tor’s films to put a special touch on short still absorbed with a magical style. In the brought the classic Breton stripe shirt to films for their companies. For Louis director’s newest, Adieu au langage, a the big screen, to a wider audience than Vuitton, Purple Magazine editor Oliver heroine wears a fantastic, classic trench the French sailor shirt’s original landlub- Zham shot a two-minute short based coat. Godard seems to know that a great ber supporter, Coco Chanel. In Bande à on Le Mépris (Contempt), a diary entry outfit can take one’s breath away. part (Band Of Outsiders), actress Anna about his time at the house’s Spring Godard’s early period spirit lives on: Karina’s crewneck sweater and pigtails 2012 show, which has a nod toward his 2014 Cannes Palme D’or Jury Prize along with the film’s spirit, inspired Brigitte Bardot’s sexy, come-hither look co-winner (it was a tie), is Canada’s own Scott Sternberg’s 2003 launch of Band with long, knee-length dresses. In 2014 Xavier Dolan (director/actor). Dolan, a Of Outsiders line of fitted, school-boyish Carven shot a short as a digital cam- young spiffily dressed director hasn’t Oxford shirts, suits, and casual men’s paign strategy, parlaying the houses’ used a costume designer since his first and womenswear. In Pierrot le fou, there’s swinging sixties-inspired looks through a feature, J’ai tué ma mère. A director can, Anna Karina – again – in smart, plain Godard filter. indeed, make a good costume designer, shift dresses, and a fringe of bangs over Godard’s later work such as Tout va or costume consultant, it appears! her forehead, a proto Zooey Deschanel bien (All’s Well), Éloge de l’amour (In Praise look. Of Love), and Adieu au langage (Goodbye Pasquale Casullo is a young-old gent, writ- Godard’s fashion inspiration from that To Language), may not be as influential er, sometimes editor, flâneur, city-galloper, early period goes on and on. In Vogue’s as his earlier works were – perhaps, society reporter, and a Truman Capote-in- October 1990 issue, thirty years after because he has employed a costume training who has written for Toronto Life.

CAFTCADEMY 101 Your Digital Binder. From Prep to Wrap. WEEKEND SEMINARS REVIEW By Robyn Macdonald Keeping the Crew Connected Sync OnSet is a software tool that helps TV and Film production Creating beautiful garments for glam- crews work more collaboratively orous movie stars is a very seductive and efficiently. We bring your team image. For a long time I’ve wanted to seamless continuity, approval, and be a costume designer but despite my inventory management – all in one place. interest, I ended up studying both fine art and interior design before returning to what I love most - fashion and cos- tume. After finishing Fashion Design at George Brown College I began working 1 Prep 2 Shoot 3 Wrap at Berman & Company, one of Toronto’s • Auto Script Breakdown • Photo & Note Sharing • Inventory Tracking COSTUME MAKEUP DASHBOARD • Digital Approvals • Mobile App (iOS/Android) • Wrap Reports fine wardrobe rental houses. I no longer • Budgeting • Permission Levels • Digital Archives have any illusions. I see the dedication, hard work and long hours required to SyncOnSet.com [email protected] HAIR PROPS LOCATIONS get the job done, yet somehow, I know more than ever that this industry is for positions within the wardrobe depart- overview of the industry, including of- me. ment. Taught by talented members of fering advice on how to write a resume, So what does it actually mean to work in the Toronto film community, speakers how to approach the people you’d like wardrobe? broke down the roles and responsibili- to work for, and what to have in your kit. The CAFTCADEMY 101 weekend semi- ties of each member on the wardrobe Kim Harkness then discussed how to nars answered many questions. It was team. prep your job including how to read and an excellent introduction to the different On day one Alex Kavanagh gave an breakdown a script, source costumes, BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.17 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 organize fittings and take proper fitting labour and who can stay organized, can someone step into your shoes and photos, and how to decipher call sheets on schedule, and stick to a budget. takes over where you left off? A morbid and other set paperwork. Madeline Stewart discussed the intrica- thought? Perhaps. But also a great ques- After lunch Leslie Kavanagh talked cies of being a Background Coordinator tion to ask yourself to make sure you about the roles of the Set Supervisor and how to manage an entire depart- have everything accounted for on paper. and Truck Supervisor, including how ment practically on your own (not a big The weekend was peppered with an- to take care of the cast as well as the deal at all). ecdotal stories of difficult actors, grand garments. Elizabeth Walter Gregg fol- Madeline was back after lunch and successes, and times when it seemed lowed with information on being a Daily talked about the roles of the Assistant like everything was falling apart but and proper set etiquette. She also gave Designer and Costume Supervisor, giv- somehow didn’t. These stories brought an introduction to breakdown, which ing us insight into the practicalities of to life an industry full of passionate, if you like getting your hands dirty, is a setting up the office and the financial quirky, and talented individuals all in the great combination of mess and artistic organization needed to make a ward- business of making movie magic. skill. Closing the day was Cutter Michel robe department run. Georgina Yarhi Proulx, who discussed the workroom discussed what a Costume Designer ac- and construction side of wardrobe, as tually does. Yes, it’s creative and exciting, well as touching on the need for skilled but it’s also a lot of planning, countless cutters in the industry. This, to a room meetings, and long hours. Definitely containing many fashion design stu- not for the faint of heart! To finish off dents, was clearly an inspiring thing to an excellent weekend Stylists Michelle hear. Lyte and Richard Singh breezed in and The second day began with NABET discussed the jobs of being a print or 700 UNIFOR Vice President of Wardrobe commercial stylist as well as touching on Patrick Antosh talking about the many the nature of fashion and its role in the roles and responsibilities involved in film industry. being a Wardrobe Assistant, as well as A key point that was stressed through- offering further advice on getting a start out the weekend was the importance in the industry. Sarah Armstrong taught of organization and communication. us about being a Buyer - a dream job Ask as many questions as you need and for any shopaholic willing to do physical write it all down. If you die tomorrow,

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For media inquiries, please contact [email protected] Toronto Financial District 416 566 2041 garrisonbespoke.com BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

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DRAWING ON THE out my hand. It’s less about the product and more about the performance. The SIDELINES: goal is to strip away all the extraneous DANIELLE MEDER and to allow myself to completely fall ON FASHION into the moment. If I’m successful, then ILLUSTRATION I’m going to have successful work. At the end of the show you’ll have a lot of By Robyn Macdonald ‘garbage’, but a couple sketches will turn out really amazing. What do you feel is the appeal draw- Danielle Meder has become somewhat ing has over photography? of a trendsetter in the world of fashion il- One of the main things it can do that lustration. Cutting her teeth sketching at photography cannot is show an idea Toronto Fashion Week, Danielle became that doesn’t exist yet, it’s in that niche increasingly skilled at an analog medium where my career really lies. Translating while social media and instant photog- ideas into pictures so that other people raphy were exploding. While this may can receive them. There are a million seem like a counterintuitive path, it put cameras and phones at every fashion her in good stead in the last few years. show now so the value of photography It has definitely paid off for her. She has has become diminished. As we under- worked with Bloomingdale’s, Women’s stand fashion, once something become Wear Daily, The New York Times, New ubiquitous it becomes passé. It’s over. York Magazine, and The Hudson Bay So illustration, because there’s a higher Company among others. Anyone can level of skill, it’s not at that point of ubiq- take a snapshot of a runway show and uity yet. post it to their blog, Twitter, Instagram or What projects are you working on? Facebook page, but only a few can draw An art project I’m working on is an 8 what they are seeing. Inspired by her piece clothing collection inspired by a talk I did at the Drake Hotel called passion for the re-emergence of a fading Image courtesy of Danielle Meder art, I sat down with her to find out a little ‘Silhouettes and Signals’. I was drawing about her niche in the fashion industry. shows. I think there’s a huge interest in as I spoke about different silhouettes, How did you get your start? creativity and the creation process, and where they come from, and what they I graduated from Ryerson University in when you’re live sketching, it’s also about mean. I had the idea that if I’m talking Fashion Design in 2006 but started be- the performance. I’m finding that more about fashion, the best way to talk about ing an illustrator full time in 2007. As any and more I have eyes upon me while I’m it in terms of performance is to be in- creative freelancer I have done different working. teracting with clothing. This is a talk and types of projects. I’ve done speaking, What does it take to get a really performance piece where I’m going to be teaching, costume design projects for good quick fashion sketch? wearing and adjusting all of these items theatre, avatar games, paper dolls and Basically, you’re trying to have controlled of clothing, the theme being gesture live sketching. There was a time where accidents. Sometimes the show presents in clothing. Much as I’ve talked about I was demonstrating how to sketch on a nice colour combination or a repetitive gesture in terms of illustration, I’m also tablets. design so you’re drawing the same thing obsessed with gesture in terms of cloth- You have two very distinct styles. over and over again until you get into a ing. How it’s the invisible aspect of the I have the live sketching style and the groove. And that’s what you’re trying to design. We all wear clothes, but our ges- more traditional, computer generated do. When it comes to watercolour you’re tures incorporate something into them. ‘paper doll’ style. One tends to inform moving so fast you don’t have time to The most obvious example of that would the other and some jobs seem to hybrid think, “is this the right line? is this the be when you see a picture of President them, so it’s interesting to see a third wrong line?” Sometimes you’ll get the Obama and his sleeves are pushed up, style emerge. right line and it’ll feel like an accident. that’s a gesture in the clothing. Can you tell me more about your live You want to be able to let go of anything sketching? that puts you in that careful mode. While Danielle Meder will be teaching the upcom- I’ve been sketching for about 6 years and working I’m trying to be a conduit, the ing CAFTCAD illustration course. Visit www. recently it started being quite trendy. whole scene is coming in through my caftcad.com for more information. Now I see lots of sketchers at fashion eyes and my ears and down my arm and BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

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MEET A MEMBER: Stuart is originally from the UK where he freelance styling career in film, TV, the- STUART FARNDELL obtained a Master’s Degree in Accessory atre, commercials and print. A favoured Design from the London College of contract is his print work for Harlequin Fashion. In London he was a personal books, where he gets to flex his histori- shopper at the renowned Liberty’s of cal muscle by creating scenes anywhere London, where he acquired a good from the Roman though to the Regency knowledge of fashion styling for a vast and Victorian eras up to the 1940s. clientele. For two seasons he’s worked with Big Stuart moved to Toronto in 2006, Brother Canada, with the fabulous styl- and was taken under the wings of Julian ist Lisa Williams. Stuart is a permittee Finkel & Georgia Groom at the well- with both I.A.T.S.E 873 and NABET 700 known retail and design store Model UNIFOR. He joined CAFTCAD after tak- Citizen. In 2008 he joined the team at ing The Art of Destruction breakdown the wardrobe rental house Berman & workshop which gave him great skills Co. Ltd, where he became a wardrobe that he used for a series of teen zombie aficionado, identifying, researching and novels. He loves Toronto and working in cataloguing period and contemporary this awesome industry and plans to keep costumes. moving onwards and upwards enjoying Since leaving Berman & Co. in every new project and challenge. Photo by Chris Nefs 2012 Stuart has enjoyed a successful

FASHION PIONEER Camilleri states. IZ Adaptive is worn by a number of well-known Canadians who IZZY CAMILLERI have contributed to the ROM exhibit. SHOWS IZ ADAPTIVE Among them is actor/producer Russell AT THE ROM Winkelaar who performed in Borne, a theatre piece created by award-winning By Barbara Somerville playwright Judith Thompson in collabo- ration with nine performers who use Inspired! Innovative! Indomitable and wheelchairs. incredibly talented, Izzy Camilleri has Camilleri’s iconic pieces from her de- done it again! signs over the years are also included in From a career that spans decades the exhibition. An exciting exhibit of this and has seen the creation of at least kind is not to be missed! three distinct fashion lines, it was no Camilleri’s designer pieces stem back wonder that in 2009 Camilleri launched to the 1980s, the early beginnings of her IZ Adaptive after a request to design career as a leather craftswoman. Her at- a shearling coat for a quadriplegic tention to detail and her personal stan- client. The experience provided an Photo Courtesy of Izzy Camilleri dard for high quality gave the Canadian unparalleled task resulting in absolute fashion scene pieces that have become gratification and the recognition of how Ontario Museum (ROM) has created a collectibles for some lucky people. Her traditionally constructed clothing does revolutionary exhibition showcasing success motivated her and in the 90s not provide comfort, nor function for how fashion has been made accessible she opened a studio on Adelaide Street those whose mobility relies on a wheel- in Fashion Follows Form: Designs For that catered to building costumes for the chair. After tremendous research Izzy Sitting. The exhibit opened in June and film and television industry. Everyone Camilleri created both a fashionable and closes on January 25, 2015. relied on Camilleri’s talent to translate functional line of adaptive clothing for “Creating IZ Adaptive has allowed concept into reality. both men and women who use wheel- me to think out of the box and create a Exploring fashion design continued chairs. Designing for the sitting form line of clothing that has never existed to challenge and gratify Camilleri and in rather than the standing form required a before, not only for design, but also 2010 in collaboration with the former great deal of investigation, but Camilleri function. This line of clothing offers CBC host of Fashion File Adrian Mainella, is a master problem solver. dignity, sense of self and is compas- (now Editor-In-Chief of The Aesthete), The IZ Adaptive collection is so in- sionate to a demographic that is usually IZMA fur innovation was formed. Their novative and important that the Royal not considered, especially [in] fashion,” philosophy that fur is the original “green” BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.21 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 fashion staple inspired them to design clothing but not at the cost of sacrific- everyone being able to access fashion “with longevity and legacy in mind.” ing fashion and Camilleri grasped this that makes them feel confident and Canadian wild fur is transformed into understanding to the delight of her beautiful. practical, yet luxurious iconic pieces. A dedicated clients, when she debuted her defining and outstanding moment in Fall 2013 collection as the opening show For more information on Fashion Camilleri’s career was designing the sil- of World Mastercard Fashion Week. The Follows Form: Designs for Sitting at the ver fox coat for Meryl Streep in The Devil sophisticated collection struck a chord ROM go here: http://www.rom.on.ca/ Wears Prada. and crossed the unspoken fashion en/exhibitions-galleries/exhibitions/ Camilleri’s intuitive connection with divide - stylish young women were fashion-follows-form the fashion industry saw her design found wearing it alongside their Boomer More information on Izzy Camilleri’s and develop a collection targeted at the contemporaries. lines can be found at www.izadaptive.com, Boomer generation, focusing on comfort Izzy Camilleri is an important Canadian http://miz-collection.com/ and and style under the label MIZ. Ageing designer, but more importantly she is an www.izma.ca. bodies dictate the need for comfort in empathetic designer, who cares about

DATELINE: BERLIN film industry. Berlin has two old festi- val cinemas the Zoo Palast in the west By Urs Dierker and the Kino International in former East Berlin. The city is home to two big Berlin is not only the capital of costume rental houses Theaterkunst Germany it’s the hipster place to go to. and the Kostümfundus Babelsberg. Both Shots from the streets of Berlin appear are amazing rental houses with a long in style blogs around the world and history in German and International film Berlin Street Style: A Guide to Urban productions and both house costume Chic, was published earlier this year. The workshops and a fine selection of every city is also known for filming great block- kind of German military uniforms, period buster movies. Movies about the Second and contemporary wear. This spring The World War, like Inglorious Bastards, Strain rented World War II Uniforms and Valkyrie and The Monuments Men. Spy KZ (Concentration Camp) clothing from movies like The Lives of Others, Unknown Theaterkunst for an extensive concen- and The Bourne Supremacy. Science fic- tration camp scene. tion movies like Cloud Atlas, Hanna and One of the best places to research the last part of The Hunger Games film period costumes is the Lipperheide quadrilogy: Mockingjay were partially Costume Library at the Kulturforum shot at the Babelsberg Film Studios. close to the Potsdamer Platz. Aside from The Hunger Games films are wonder- the international literature on fashion, ful examples of fashion and film. Now uniforms and weapons the Lipperheide designed by the CD’s Kurt and Bart, Costume Library also hosts fashion who followed Trish Summerville (2013) related collections of prints, drawings, Photo Courtesy of Lions Gates Films and Judianna Makovsy (2012) the story photographs and paintings. is about the people of 13 Districts and Everdeen, your Mockingjay. Glanz und Grauen (Gloss and Gray) is the ruling Capitol, visually divided by I went back to Berlin earlier this year a very detailed and interesting exhibition elaborate couture of the Capitol inhabit- to work on the last piece of the Hunger I saw about fashion in Germany in the ants and the working class clothes of the Games quadrilogy for three months. 1930s and 40s. Of course the exhibition districts. Here’s a practical Berlin review for shows the kind of costumes we all know Capitolcouture.pn, a website cre- costumers. from this period, but also talks about ated alongside the films, features the Berlin was divided into West and East everyday wear and how it was altered newest fashion trends of the fictional for 40 years until 1989, meaning most by the political changes in Germany. You Capitol with clothing designed by Trish establishments you’re looking for you’ll will find costume drawings from the Summerville, Thom Browne, Mary find twice. Berlin has two Opera houses, Berlin costume designer Ilse Naumann Katrantzou and Sam H Snyder. You can two Zoo’s and two famous currywurst and a video compilation showing cos- purchase items and dress like one of the houses - Konnopke in the East and Curry tume design in Nazi German films. The decadent Capitol figures or like Katniss 36 in the west. The same is true of the most interesting detail in the exhibition BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.22 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 is a look at the propaganda about cloth- out that American films have formed the ing made by the Nazis and the Allies German view of the Nazi regime. that show how everyday clothing was Last, I want to introduce you to a changed by the facts of war. Fabric for German organization VSK - Verband clothing was produced in lower qual- der Berufsgruppen Szenenbild und ity to save more resources for the “war Kostümbild e.V., a non-partisan costume important” industry and clothing was organization which has similar goals to more often reused and altered to fit the CAFTCAD. They also focus on the legal new requirements but also look fashion- aspects of costumes within the film able. Interestingly, Dr. Kraft, the curator industry. of the Glanz und Grauen exhibit, points

DIScONNECT: CANADA’S PREMIER FASHION FILM FESTIVAL By Brian A. Richards

In 2010, the members of Toronto fash- ion firm, THE COLLECTIONS launched Canada’s premier fashion film event, DIScONNECT (DFFF). The festival fea- tured contemporary Canadian fashion Gabriel Getman’s Circus photographers who were asked to experiment with the medium of film. 2010 Jabbar’s film was also featured great, but is truly made legendary by Hosted at Toronto hot-spot Parts & in Diane Pernet’s A Shaded View Of banking on the genius of others. Labour, seven short films were projected Fashion Film, currently the world’s most Continuing to showcase the brightest against a flat stone surface to a packed prestigious fashion film festival. talent(s) where creative teams col- audience of industry members, taste- The relationship between a filmmaker lectively produce world-class content, makers, peers and fashion followers. and wardrobe (fashion) is crucial, as DIScONNECT historically collaborates Afterwards, electro-goth ensemble Trust clothing dictates everything from mood with filmmakers and their creative properly punctuated a celebratory night to movement. No one else but Ralph teams, to produce its own film exploring representing a once subversive form, Lauren could dress the dreamy socialites a theme. This year’s, theme Electric Era somewhat still in its infancy, emerging in Francis Ford Coppola’s 1974 adapta- was brought to life by Canadian born, from the “underground scene” to the tion of The Great Gatsby. Director Luc UK based filmmaker Sarah Blais. Along “mainstream”. Besson could not have realized his sci-fi with Toronto wardrobe stylist Dwayne Seven seasons later, taking place dur- dystopia in The Fifth Element without the Kennedy, hair and make-up artist ing each semi-annual Toronto Fashion enigmatic designs of Jean Paul Gaultier. Claudine Balthazar and nail technician Week, Canada’s premier fashion film Directors can also depend on a costume Vanessa Luciano, together they envi- festival has featured international designer(s), like duo Kurt Swanson and sion a dark future disconnected from emerging and established talents includ- Bart Mueller, in Dallas Buyer’s Club, to any human empathy and riddled with ing Canadians Miguel Jacob, Francisco transform the likes of heartthrob Jared anxiety—a fate eerily foreshadowed Garcia, Eva Michon, Adam & Christopher Leto into an HIV-positive transgender by media forefather Marshall McLuhan Levett, Renata Kaveh, Norman Wong and woman, or 82-year-old costume design decades ago. Hannah Sider; American Vogue regular legend Patricia Norris envisioning the Evolving from solely a platform for Marcus K. Jones and from the UK Gabriel antebellum era in 12 Years a Slave with ‘fashion photographers to experiment Gettman and Zaiba Jabbar. In May of expert precision. A filmmaker can be with fashion film’ the festival now prides BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.23 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 itself in promoting ‘filmmakers experi- menting with fashion film’. Technically trained filmmakers (who may not be that familiar with fashion) rel- ish in creating surrealist, abstract pieces of moving art steeped in fashion, trend and luxury. Given the easy access to a myriad of technological tools, fashion films allow brands to literally come alive and speak to their customer. Filmmakers love it, from Frank Miller for Gucci (2010) to David Lynch for Dior (2011) to Roman Polanski for Prada (2013) to Sofia Coppola for Marc Jacobs (2013). Locally, in 2013 Norman Wong debuted an official fashion film to mark Mulberry’s Toronto flagship boutique opening. What was once considered a creative luxury, the ‘fashion film’ has graduated to a marketing necessity and (on some levels) cinematic art. It’s clear: fashion has film- makers fascinated!

DIScONNECT happens on October 22, 2014, during World MasterCard Fashion Week, and for the first time will be held at TIFF Bell Lightbox. Author Brian A. Richards is a founder of the DIScONNECT Fashion Film Festival WHO, WHAT, WHERE along with Mel Ashcroft and Dwayne By Loretta Chin Kennedy. VP Wardrobe of Nabet 700 Unifor store and shopping showroom. CD Patrick Antosh worked on Zoom, CD Brenda Broer’s newest project a Brazilian co-production shot outside Coconut Hero, is a dark comedy drama Sao Paulo, Brazil and at Revival Studios about a teenaged boy living in a small in Toronto. Gael Garcia Bernal and Alison northern Ontario town. The Six Island Pill star in the story that follows three Productions feature helmed by award characters who write a graphic novel winning director Florian Cossen, stars about each other. After Zoom Patrick Alex Ozerov in this contemporary jumped onto the much-anticipated 3rd coming-of age-tale scheduled to release season of Remedy. later this year. $1, $2, $3, more, Berman and Co. (55 Mid-August CD Lea Carlson be- Logan Ave.) held the first of a monthly gan designing Room, a feature based series of Wardrobe Blow Out Sales mid- on Irish-Canadian author Emma July to make way for new stock. Held in Donoghue’s 2010 novel. The Irish co-pro- their parking lot, the first “Rack and Roll” duction shooting in Toronto, directed by sidewalk sale offered 30 rolling racks Lenny Abrahamson, stars Brie Larson. of stock great for breakdown, BG, indie Currently, the CD has a number of budget-challenged projects, would-be projects in release: features The F Word zombies and post-apocalyptic types. staring Daniel Radcliffe and Zoe Kazan For upcoming dates, visit the CAFTCAD and Dr. Cabbie a Canadian comedy deal- Google Group and FB. Berman’s co-own- ing with the immigrant experience, and er Linda Petty’s future plans for the the HBO Series Sensitive Skin starring rental house include an online vintage Kim Cattrall. BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.24 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014

CD Julianna Clarke just wrapped on Peterson, Janet-Laine Green, Yannick Jeannette Sousa and Ryan Scott, pairs the first season of The Stanley Dynamic a Bisson, Chantal Craig, Matt Murray, the couple who are married in real life in multi-cam sitcom about a family that has and Supinder Wraich. Anna also styled this Rom Com that unfolds with all the a son who is an animated cartoon. Her the WAC Hair Salon submission for the Portuguese traditions. team included CAFTCAD member Sam Davines World Style Competition, shot The Disney/Family Channel TV movie, Rice on Truck. by photographer Rino Noto. How To Build A Better Boy directed by Paul Stylist Loretta Chin is now CD on CD Anne Dixon has started the fea- Hoen, is a 21st century twist on the 80s the first Canadian version of the long- ture Total Frat Movie about what else – a John Hughes classic Weird Science. The running U.S. based reality bridal show frat house. Later in the year Anne moves contemporary comedy shot in Toronto, Say Yes To The Dress. The Temple Street on to shoot the feature Born To Be Blue was CD’d by Alex Kavanagh who cre- Production for the W Network follows about the late legendary jazz musician ated a colourful palette for the cast brides as they search for the dress Chet Baker. of quirky characters including former of their dreams under the scrutiny of The independent filmA Date With Miss Canadian Idol competitor Marshall friends and family in tow. Fortune challenged CD Marya Duplaga Williams. Alex’s team included CAFTCAD Currently Anna Dal Farra is ACD to use all her ingenuity to wardrobe a members ACD Leslie Kavanagh, on Lost Girl, Season 5. The long-time project that required multiple ward- Extras Coordinators, Sarah Goodwin CAFTCAD member also found time robe changes for all cast members and Christina Barry, Set Supervisor to CD director Tanya Lemke’s Static. over a 15-days shooting schedule. The Lindsay Walker and Jenn Burton Based on the award-winning script, the independently funded project starring on Truck. In September Alex heads to short film shot in Toronto features Eric the project’s writers and producers, Winnipeg to teach CAFTCAD’s two-day BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.25 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 breakdown workshop for Film Training second season. The gripping contem- CAFTCAD Manitoba. Her company Off With Her porary vampire crime series found CD Head Inc. offers dyeing and break- Luis Sequeira and his talented CAFTCAD CALENDAR OF down services at her studio. Contact: crew working their magic in a delicate [email protected]. chess game between production and EVENTS Leslie Kavanagh returns to Reign costumes. The director, well-known as Co-Designer while the project’s for input on every aspect of produc- American designer Meredith Markworth- tion challenged this veteran costume SEP 9 Pollack takes maternity leave. CAFTCAD department with the concept of creat- CAFTCAD Celebrates Costumes 2014 member Sarah Goodwin assumes ing iconic costumes in multiples - oft- during the Toronto International Film Leslie’s former role as ACD. Both have times 20. Check. Add the challenge of Festival® at the Spoke been busy shooting the second sea- finding winter stock in multiples out son of Reign whose key cast includes of season, well...checkmate. Kudos to Adelaide Kane as the teenaged Mary Luis, ACD Lindsay Jacobs, Costume SEP 27-28 & NOV 8-9 Queen of Scots, Megan Follows and Supervisor Suzanne Aplin, Buyers CAFTCADEMY: Illustration Course with Torrance Coombs. Nathalie Gysel and Anita Bacic, Cutter Danielle Meder at Artscape Costume cutter Wing Lee designed Tamiyo Tomihiro, 1st hand sewer Wing and produced three characters for the Lee, Textile Artist and Dyer Silvana SEP 27-28 fantasy romantic short, The Portal featur- Sacco and Extras Coordinator Sarah CAFTCADEMY: ing Tahmoh Penikett and Erin Karpluk. Armstrong. Off site help included ‘The Art of Destruction’ Currently he has signed on to the TV CAFTCAD members Martino Designs, 10AM - 5PM biopic Aaliyah: Princess of R&B. The Cutter Loreen Lightfoot, and Special At Asper Centre for Theatre and Film, Lifetime project delves into the life of Builds by Adam Smith. University of Winnipeg. the late hip hop princess known not only Charged with ensuring actor Maggie for her enduring influence on music but Q “always looked stealthy, sexy and OCT 5 also on 90s fashion and style - singer practical in her mission costumes” for CAFTCAD Annual General Membership Rita Ora, was recently spotted wear- Nikita, CD and Barbara Somerville meeting 2:00PM 65 Heward Ave. ing an “Aaliyah Baby Girl” tribute tee. her team became experts at keeping Q The show’s CD Michelle Lyte, spoke at warm and hiding her mic pack despite CAFTCADEMY 101 on the art of styling the challenges created by the need for OCT 18 earlier this year. body-con costumes. Life after four sea- MWS Location TBA For anyone looking for Martino sons of the acclaimed action driven CW Designs new location it’s at 966 Dundas series found Barbara designing the CBS St. E., east of Broadview. It’s the white pilot Agatha, a crime drama shot over Noteworthy: house that’s been turned into a studio. the winter of 2014. Mid-July found the One of the go-to makers and alteration- veteran CD starting prep on the series Fashion Follows Form: Designs for ists in the city, Martino has been working 12 Monkeys, a re-imagined interpretation Sitting at the ROM until Jan. 25, 2015. on contemporary pieces like Pixel and of the 1995 Terry Gilliam film. The show Killjoys as well as period shows like CW gives Barbara an exciting opportunity to Godard Retrospective Part II at TIFF network’s Reign and AMC’s Hell on Wheels create unique characters that will span Bell Lightbox Oct 3rd- Dec 20th, 2014. which is shot in Alberta. time and travel and includes CAFTCAD Veteran cutter Anita O’Toole is member Textile Artist and Dyer Urs DIScONNECT, Canada’s premier fashion keeping busy on the hit Showcase Dierker. film festival, is on Wed October 22, 2014, fantasy series Lost Girl. The lion’s share Anya Taraboulsy served as Costume during World MasterCard Fashion Week, of costumes run through her hands in Consultant on Transporter Season Two at TIFF Bell Lightbox. this sci-fi series that moves between to Paris based CD Agnès Flaque. Shot past and present. O’Toole, a CAFTCAD in Toronto over the summer for an The Stanley Kubrick exhibition makes EB member also helped organize this October airdate, The Movie Network it’s Canadian premiere at TIFF Bell year’s successful CAFTCADEMY 101 and project is a contemporary drama featur- Lightbox from Oct 31, 2014 until Jan 25, the CAFTCAD lounge at the spring 2014 ing Chris Vance, Violante Placido, and 2015. Kubrick is said to have given the MWS. Mark Kendall. The project’s CAFTCAD celebrated costume designer Milena It’s official, The Strain has been crew includes ACD Hanne Whitfield, Canonero her first design job. renewed. Guillermo del Toro’s much Set Supervisor Billie Blast and Truck touted pilot and series has picked up a Supervisor Samantha Rice. BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.26 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 EVENT PHOTOS

Richard Singh and Michelle Lyte at John Hagey and Ian Drummond at Tie One On Alex Kavanagh at Tie One On CAFTCADEMY 101

Juul Haalmeyer and Anna-Claude Biron at MWS MWS Poster Designer & Stylist dinner hosted by Holt’s. Photo by Scarlet Agudelo

Erika Parra and Anita O’Toole at MWS Anita Bacic and Joseph Eigers at MWS Sarah Armstrong and Nicole Manek at MWS

*MWS Photos by Riley Found

*Tie One On Photos by Joanna Syrokomla BESPOKE FILM & FASHION ISSUE

P.27 ISSUE #7, FALL 2014 CAFTCAD MEMBERS LIST Although we strive for accuracy in our membership list, due to our bi-annual publication schedule there may be some omis- sions. Please feel free to let us know and we will happily amend in our next issue. - The BeSpoke Committee

HONORARY Deborah Burton Eve English SATELLITE Arthur Roswell Elizabeth Marics Gwendolyn Anderson Erika Alexandra Parra Bernal Juul Haalmeyer Erika Larner Iris Simpson Glenne Campbell Martha Mann Hanne Whitfield Kathleen Pattinson Kate Hawley Olga Dimitrov Janice Skinner Kim Harkness Monique Prudhomme COSTUME DESIGNER Jeana MacDougall Marion Ferneyhough Patricia Henderson Alex Kavanagh Jennifer Bunt Patricia Thoun STUDENTS Anne Dixon Julianna Clarke Sally Han Jessica Chambers Antoinette Messam Katrina Carrier Anya Taraboulsy Karynah Zeh Brenda Broer Kimberly Catton Barbara Somerville Kingpin (Jonathan Hagey) WE APPRECIATE THE ONGOING Delphine White Leonie Reid Eydi Caines-Floyd Leslie Kavanagh SUPPORT OF OUR CORPORATE Georgina Yarhi Lindsay Jacobs Gersha Phillips Lindsay Walker SPONSORS Joanna Syrokomla Madeline Brian Platinum Gold Kristen O’Reilly Meri Lee Helmer Laurie Drew Miranda Lukaniuk-Lipovsek Lea Carlson Nola Chaters Luis Sequeira Ofelia Liu Marya Duplaga Raelene Worthington Nicole Manek Ritta Koleva Patrick Antosh Rosemary Della Serra Sarah Armstrong Samantha Rice Shelley Mansell Sara Brzozowski ASSISTANT COSTUME DESIGNER Sarah Goodwin Silver Anna Dal Farra Sara Schilt Bernadette Croft Sherri-Lynn Lawrence Ian Drummond Sheryl Willock Nancy Granfield Silvana Sacco Roslyn Hanchard Sophie Lennox-King Sheila Pruden Stuart Farndell Vickey Saito Suzanne Aplin STYLIST Tamiyo Tomihiro Adrian Fulop Tracy Alves Beverly Law Urs Dierker Georgia Groom Wing Lee Loretta Chin COSTUME INDUSTRY SUPPORT Lori Gardner Berman and Co. Ltd. Richard Singh Costume Period Rentals Shannon Pomakov Kelly-Francis Costumes Inc. PROFESSIONAL Liberty Wardrobe Rental House Adam Smith Martino Nguyen Designs Alexandra Boulitzi Theatrix Alexandria Goldman Wotever Inc. Amanda Bone BUSINESS Anita Bacic Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection Anita O’Toole Farthingales Anna-Claude Biron Freda’s Ashminie RamKellawan I.A.T.S.E 873 Barbara de Kat Nabet 700 Unifor Billie Blast Nobis Inc. Bronze Christina Barry AFFILIATE Don Carmody Production Danielle Jarrett-Fisch Deborah Trouten Harry Rosen Strain Can Production Supply & Demand MVP-TomGenBespokeFP_02-14_- 2014-03-06 3:57 PM Page 1

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