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Home , Bali Jatra, Chandan Yatra, Chhena, Chhena Poda, Odia literature, Pattachitra

ISSN 0970-8669 Review

Rasagola: The Ritual offering of Odisha

Asit Mohanty Translated from Odia by Supriya Kar

Rasagola belongs to Odisha. There’s no doubt about it. There’re lots of information and evidence to support this claim. It is one of the traditional food offerings made to Lord . As part of the last ritual of , known as ‘Niladri Bije’ (Lord Jagannath’s return to his abode after nine days), it is offered to goddess on behalf of Lord Jagannath. Lord Jagannath had gone to visit his birth place accompanied by His brother and sister for nine days, and that had made his wife, Goddess Lakshmi angry. It is, through providing sufficient evidence in the however, unfortunate that West has form of arguments and establish logically the claimed itself to be the place of origin of rasagola claim of Odisha. as well as of the word ‘rasagola’. In the middle of 2015, Government of Rasagola is a soft, small-sized sweet. Its Odisha started the procedure to acquire the shape could be bigger than a tiny ball and smaller Geographic Indications (GI) status for rasagola than a hand bomb. And yet, a ‘sweet war’ has prepared in Pahala, a place situated on the NH5 commenced between two neighbouring states, between and . The Odisha and , over it. Odisha has specialty of GI status is this: it is an identity marker retorted strongly by celebrating the Rasagola Day for a particular product or commodity originating for the first time on 30th July 2015. However, from a particular place. The Odishan products one may create certain amount of public which have acquired the GI status include awareness through celebrating such a day once a Kotapada handloom sari and , the stone year, but that cannot be the valid evidence on the sculpture of , patta chitra and appliqué basis of which it can be said rasagola belongs to of Pipili, sari, Sambalpuri handloom Odisha. If one wants to claim that ‘rasagola saris, Bomkai sari and clothes, silk belongs to Odisha’ and that ‘rasagola is part sari and clothes, Gopalpur tussar weaves, kia of the ritual food offering at Lord Jagannath flower and its essence from Ganjam, curtains and temple’, one has to reject Bengal’s claim handlooms of Dhala Pathara and Odisha

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Pattachitra (logo). All these have been registered The Cornwalis Story1 with special GI status. There had been no According to one such story, when Lord controversy in the process of acquiring GI status Cornwalis was the Governor General of , for all these products. However, the claim rasagola belongs to Odisha has stirred a long dormant he wanted to please the landlords in order to get dispute between West Bengal and Odisha. more levy from them. A large banquet was arranged for the landlords. As it was customary, People of Bengal were startled and claimed the important guests were offered pudding as loudly ‘rasagola belongs to us’. The people of at such banquets. But the regular Bengali Odisha did no less. There were heated cook who prepared pudding suddenly fell ill that discussions, debates in newspapers, journals, day; as a result, the responsibility fell on another magazines, and also on television channels. This cook. He did not know how to prepare pudding. issue was also raised in the Odisha State The meant for preparing pudding could not Assembly. As a result, be processed properly and it curdled. As the man formed three committees under the supervision of the Department of Science and Technology on did not know what to do with the (cottage 22nd September, 2015. The objectives of these ) thus formed out of it, he put all of it in a committees were: piece of cloth and tied it into a bundle and hung it. But no one knew how, the knot opened and 1. To collect sufficient data and evidence, the fell into a large pan full of and apply for rasogolla’s GI status or patent at syrup. Next morning, it was found that the cottage the Registrar of Intellectual Property Rights, cheese was floating in the syrup. He tasted a bit Government of India out of it and found it delicious. None of the guests 2. To prove wrong the baseless claims of had ever tasted such a delicious sweet before. Bengal that rasagola belongs to Bengal Everybody started praising it effusively. According 3. To place a demand to disrespect to this story, it was the initial form of rasagola. Bengal’s claim and approve Odisha’s. Hence, according to this story, rasagola In the mean time, a few GI authorities have was first prepared in Bengal towards the end of stated that it is not viable to claim GI status for a eighteenth century. But the information provided food product like rasagola. It may be mentioned by themselves is that rasogolla was here the GI status has been conferred on food prepared in 1868. products like ladoo of Tirupati, ratalami seo of Rasogolla, which enthralls all Madhya Pradesh, of Dharwad, halim of Hyderabad, and muan of Joynagar (West No sooner than the debate got stirred Bengal). So, why isn’t it justified to demand a GI whether rasogolla belonged to Odisha or Bengal, status for rasagola of Odisha ? Odisha has a Haripada Bhowmik, a Bengali scholar who number of infallible weapons, too. researches on culture, wrote a book really fast, When and where exactly the preparation Rasogolla Banglar Jagatmatano Abiskar of rasagola started remains unknown. However, (Rasogolla which enthralls all is an invention of those who say that it originated in Bengal have Bengal) and published it in August 2015. It has stories to offer. been published by Gangchil, Kolkata2.

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Kshiramohan and Kshiragolak Chakuli chhunchi patara chhena manohara 4 He has written in the introduction of the Kshiri kshirisa sakara sakala drabya sara. book, “All of a sudden it is demanded by Odisha Das’s Odia is known that rasogolla’s place of origin is , and that it as Dandi Ramayana or Jagamohana was initially known as kshiramohan. It was clear Ramayana. There are ample descriptions of from the name that it is actually kshiragolak. The chhena and chhena products in it. Pundit Govinda real rasogolla is never prepared from milk. Rath was the first scholar to edit and publish it. Rasogolla is prepared from chhena processed He was born in the Patapur (Padmanavapur) from curdled milk. Some of the Odia researchers sasan in Banki in 1848. He did a lot of work for term rasogolla as chhena ra kshiramohan. and literature and died on 19th May Chhena and Kshira—both are formed out of 1918. He sourced, edited and written more than milk. If hot milk is curdled, chhena (cottage two hundred books. He had established a press, cheese) is formed, and if milk is boiled and Ratha Press in Cuttack and published books of thickened, it becomes , kshira. medieval poets such as Abhimanyu So kshira is never referred to as chhena. Hence, Samantasinhara, , Baladev Rath ‘chhena ra kshiramohan’ phrase is like a stone along with the works of the pioneer of modern bowl of gold.” : . The Chhena exclusively belongs to Bengal ? Dandi Balmiki Ramayana published by him is worth mentioning.5 Its first edition is available at Haripada Bhowmik has made a laughable the centuries old literary institution of Odisha, Utkal claim regarding chhena in his book: The word Sahitya Samaja; Cuttack.6 There is the mention chhena was prevalent is Bengal. This word does of rasagola in it. not exist in literature or dictionaries. In them the spoilt substance (which is prepared by According to the description in Balaram curdling milk) is known as ‘amiksha’, ‘kilata’, and Das’ Ramayana, in ‘Ajodhya Kanda’, after ‘dudhakurchika’. From Sanskrit ‘chhinna’ Rama left for forest, Bharat and Satrughna went ‘chhana’ or ‘chhena’ has come. This word is to bring him back and accepted the hospitality of originally a Bangla word.”3 But the word ‘chhena’ sage Bharadwaj. Sage Bharajwaj served them and the delicacies made from it are widely and their followers all kinds of food and delicacies mentioned in the by , which included dudha chhena (cottage cheese the Ramayana of Balaram Das and other such prepared from milk). And the products from Odia works belonging to fifteenth century. chhena that he had served included chhena puri, Sarala Das is known as the ‘adikabi’ (first chhena ladu, rasogolla, and rasabali. poet) of Odisha. According to the description in Bhowmik has made a ludicrous attempt in his Mahabharata’s ‘Madhya Parva’, during the his book and tried to prove that the origin of planning of dharma jajna, Arjuna brought Sri rasogolla is Bengal. However, the description of to Barunabanta. Mother Kunti served chhena and rasagola and such terms in the above- them many delicacies. Among these were chhena mentioned works of Sarala Das, Balaram Das, and delicacies made of chhena. To describe it, and Abhimanyu Samanta Sarala Das has written: Simhara show this claim to be of no

78 April - 2017 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 consequence. The reason according to (literally, which has been cut). In Odia, the phrase researchers is that Sarala Das belonged to the used for this is, ‘chhena chhindiba’. Pundit period of reign of the Gajapati king of Gopinath Nandasharma8 has also said that Odisha, Kapilendra Dev (1435-68) and his son chhena is derived from the word chhinna. In his Purusottam Dev (1468-97) of sun dynasty. view, it is an aberration of milk. On the other hand, Balaram Das lived during 1472-1550, his time Bhowmik has used it in a negative sense. The apt coinciding with the reign of Purusottam Dev and meaning of ‘bikara’ is transformation. In that Prataprudra Dev. Brajanath Badajena’s time sense, yoghurt, , clarified butter—all these belonged to 1730-1800 and Abhimanyu are new forms of milk. So, the way Bhowmik Samantasimhara belonged to 1760-1806. All of has made out such a perverted meaning of chhena them belonged to a much earlier period than the on the basis of the word ‘chhinna’ is completely so-called time of invention of ‘rasogolla’ by Navin meaningless. He has said that chhena (cottage Chandra Dash in 1868. cheese) is prepared by curdling milk. Since it is made by curdling milk with the help of an acidic The Accusation of Amiksha substance it is almost like a murder!, in a complex Now, let us discuss Bhowmik’s accusation web of puritanical practices, it becomes na-paka, of amiksha in this topic. He has said in his book, (something impure and hence not to be eaten) by “there’s no word chhena in or the non-Bengali Indians. That is why the main dictionaries; but there is a word amiksha.” But ingredient of sweets is milk all over India except is not amiksha same as chhena? It may be noted Bengal. Bengal has not kept ‘chhena’ aside as here that Amar Singh has mentioned amiksha in impure. On the other hand, it has prepared a his Amara Kosha which he wrote during the variety of sweets using chhena.’ Bhowmik has not Gupta era in 400 AD. restrained himself saying this. He has gone a step ahead and also said, ‘chhena was regarded as a It has been claimed that rasogolla was dead substance’. ‘Chhena is dead milk—and prepared in 1868 in Bengal. Coincidentally, an hence, it is discarded as a dead form.’ Odia dictionary named Utkal Bhasha Arthabhidhana7 edited by Reverend W. Miller Chhena is prohibited at temples! and Raghunath Mishra was published in Odisha Bhowmik also mentioned in his book9 since in the same year. In this dictionary, the page chhena is a perverted form of milk it is not worthy number 80 has an entry of the word chhena. As of gods, that is why it is prohibited at temples. He its synonym and meaning ‘amiksha’ and ‘dugdha has taken the Achaya side. However, many ra bikara’ are also mentioned. It is obvious delicacies prepared from chhena are made as food ‘amiksha’ and ‘chhena’ both are the same thing. offerings not only at Lord Jagannath temple, Puri, The use of the word Chhena also quite prevalent but at numberless temples since time immemorial. in Odisha much before the invention of Rasogolla In Lord Jagannatha’s ‘anasara’ (when Lord in Bengal. Jagannath falls ill) and ‘maha anasara’ during the ‘’ (the year in which Lord Jagannath Chhena is the dead form of Milk! takes a new wooden form), chhena is part of There is no doubt about the fact that many food delicacies at these secret rituals. chhena has its root in the Sanskrit word ‘chhina’ Besides, chhena is a main ingredient during the

April - 2017 79 ISSN 0970-8669 Odisha Review car festival, at Mausima temple’s podapitha writes, ‘When the king heard that Mahaprabhu ( made by a of and would come to Puri, he travelled from Cuttack to gram mixed with chhena and grated Puri. However, even though he travelled this far, ), and in other such during the he didn’t get a chance to meet him. The king Chandan festival. requested Sarbabhoumya Bhattacharya and other devotees to help him get a glimpse of Sri Even in the mid-day offering, chhena is put Chaitanya. They devotees advised the king that in condensed milk. Therefore, it is absolutely clear when Mahaprabhu would dance in ecstasy while that Indians knew the preparation of cottage the chanting of the name of Lord Hari, he could cheese even before the Portuguese or the French see him from a distance. arrived in India. In any other part of India, it may be regarded as a ‘perverted form of milk’ and King Prataparudra Dev had a glimpse of not offered at temples, but it was not prohibited Sri Chaitanya in this manner. By that time, the in temples in Odisha. Especially, it was used in king was almost drooling, his body smeared with the preparation of various food offerings at Lord dust. However, his heart was not content. Who Jagannath temple since time immemorial. In did he glimpse? Whom—whom everybody called Srimandira Sattwalipi (Record of Rites, Lord god! When the king went to touch Lord Jagannath Jagannath Temple, Puri), many delicacies made in his dream, Jagannath Dev told the king — ‘Your with chhena have been mentioned. body smeared with , musk, sandalwood is not worthy to touch my body smeared with Sri Chaitanya and Sri Prataprudra Theory dust and sweat.’ At that time, the king could see Despite the presence of chhena and Sri Chaitanya Dev on the jeweled throne of Lord products made with chhena at Lord Jagannath Jagannath and tried to touch him. Mahaprabhu temple, Puri, Bhowmik has introduced a number Chaitanya told King Prataprudra Dev, ‘When you of fictional account regarding chhena bhoga in his don’t love me, why do you want to touch me? 10 book. In the chapter ‘Chhena in Puri’ a section When the king awoke from his sleep, he called ‘Puri mandira ra Rajabhoga’ is provided. felt guilty remembering the dream. He understood In this section, he has said, ‘The food offering that Lord Jagannath Dev and Srikrishna Chaitanya made by the king’s palace is known as were one and the same. ‘rajabhoga’. When King Prataparudra (reign 1491-1540) came to Puri, he got information The only objective behind Bhowmik’s long regarding ‘rajabhoga’ at Lord Jagannath temple narration of Sri Chaitanya, King Prataprudra Dev, from the court preceptor Kashi Mishra.’ In this and Lord Jagannath is that the presence of chhena in the food offerings of Lord Jagannath at the context, Bhowmik has not been reluctant to show temple has its root in Bengal. Therefore, he has King Prataparudradev in a poor light through citing stretched this story a bit far. That is why another some books on Sri Chaitanya. He has depicted topic in his book is: ‘Nilachale Maha Prabhura Lord Jagannath as inferior to Sri Chaitanya. He Prabhab’ (The impact of Chaitanya in Puri). has referred to Sri Chaitanya as ‘Mahaprabhu’ (Lord of Lords) and Jagannath as ‘Jagannath Sri Chaitanya: ‘Living Brahma’? Dev’. More so, he has not bothered to put the It is universally acknowledged and granted reverential prefix ‘Sri’ before Lord Jagannath. He by scriptures that Lord Jagannath is the ‘Daru

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Brahma,’ Brahma residing in a wooden frame. king, sages, mahantas, sat in front of the Garuda Even the representative of Lord Jagannath, ‘Pati Pillar, and it was approved in that year in the month Dian’ during the anasara is referred to as ‘Pati of Kartik on the sixth day of Libra, on a Friday. Brahma’ of Niladri Mahodaya.11 But is Sri Again, on the 7th day of Capricorn in the month Chaitanya ‘Living Brahma’? No one will answer of Magha, it was legitimately approved at such a this in affirmative. And yet, Bhowmik has said this meeting in front of the Garuda Pillar. Therefore, in the chapter titled, ‘Nilachale Mahaprabhu ra it is a historical document regarding the service at prabhaba’. Again, in chapter ‘Bhagabaner Lord Jagannath Temple. The 82nd service is ’12 (The offering to the Lord), he has relating to the service by the Gajapati king. In the mentioned how Chaitanya, an incarnation of Lord Karmangi, this has been referred to as became the Lord himself. ‘Mahashrama Rajanijoga’.15 According to the description, the first preceptor to the family of In this context, it may be mentioned that Gajapati king was the Shankaracharya of the first nabakalebar of Lord Jagannath took Govardhana mutt (one of the four monasteries place during the Gajapati King Ramachandra Dev established by the Adi Shankar), Shankar Gosain I, as per historical evidence. This happened after (a monk of dandi order; the dandi monks emperor of Delhi, Akbar’s chief courtier, Man customarily carried a staff). He was followed by Singh made Ramachandra Dev the king. At the the Gosain of Emar mutt. Sri Srinivas, belonging same time, the ‘Sri Sri Purushottama Jagannatha to Nityananda descendant and a friend of Sri Mandira Sebaka Khatani Nijoga Karmangi’ was Chaitanya, was the guru of Sri Prataprudra Dev. prescribed in the presence of the Shankaracharya In this context, a sculpture on Sun temple, Konark of Puri, other heads of mutts, the chief servitors acquires great significance. That sculptor depicts of the temple, and the representatives of the king. Shiva and along with Lord Jagannath as This old manual of Jagannath Temple has been well as King LangulaNarsingh Dev in the presence edited and published in Anama-19.13 It is known of his guru, a dandi monk.16 Thus, Sri Chaitanya from this manual that even though Odisha was was never a preceptor of Prataprudra Dev, and under the Mogul rule in 1568, Janardan therefore it will be a historical blunder to depict Bidyadhar’s son, Ramei Routara got the jagir of him as such the preceptor of Prataprudra Dev. Khurda under the and was recognized as the Gajapati king Ramachandra The Episode of Ramakrishna and Dev I. He brought over the Brahmabastu from Vivekananda Bishara Mohanty in Kujangagada and got a Another example found in the book of nabakalebara done and established him in 1575 Haripada Bhowmik shows to which level the in the Puri temple and began offering Anna researcher could stoop to prove the ‘rasogolla’ Mahaprasad (Rice offering) as before. belongs to Bengal. According to the description Gobardhan Dora’s Orissa: An Encyclopedia of on its page 87-88, “a devotee invited Sri Sri Events specifically mentions that this event took Thakur Ramakrishna Paramahansa on behalf of place on 17th July, 1578.14 On this occasion, there Sri Sabai Chaitanya to the inaugural festival of a was the need for the manual ‘Sri Purusottama religious gathering at Konnagar. After the Jagannatha Mandira Sebaka Khatani Nijoga completion of the meeting and the devotional Karmangi’. All the servitors, preceptor to the songs, while having food, Sri Sri Thakur bit a piece

April - 2017 81 ISSN 0970-8669 Odisha Review of rasogolla. The moment a few drops of the syrup the chhena product, rasagola belongs to Bengal of rasogolla entered his throat, he went into a in the similar manner. trance. After he came out of the trance, he was The Story of Dela (which is like a slab of asked why such a thing happened. He said that earth) Rasogolla when a few drops of syrup from the sweet entered his throat, he experienced bliss and went into a It is clear from the above-mentioned stories trance.’ that be it or Shantipur or Baghbazaar, the rasogolla produced during that time was known Alas, the great spiritual practitioner, Sri as dela rasogolla. Because, it was not soft like it Ramakrishna Paramhansa’s spiritual attainments is now. It was crude as a slab of earth. Later, could be linked to a few drops of syrup from Navin Chandra Das, who had started his career rasogolla! as an apprentice at shop, gave this hard Similarly, there is also a story about Swami sweet its present soft form. That is referred to as Vivekananda in the book. In page number 88, it ‘Sponge Rasogolla’ in . is written, ‘Ramachandra Dutta of Simla had taken Naren (Vivekananda) to Dakshineswar by the The Columbus of Rasogolla! lure of rasogolla.’ Again, ‘He was not agreeing to The Bengalis, who are known for their love come to Dakshineswar and meet Sri for sweets, have hailed Navin Chandra Das for Ramakrishna. Ramachandra could persuade him giving a new form to the existing crude rasogolla. by the lure of rasogolla.’ He has been hailed as the ‘Columbus of 17 It is unnecessary to point out how rasogolla.’ Because, he gave a new Bhowmik has tried to demean the spiritual characteristic to the already prevalent dela attainments of Sri Ramakrishna and belittle the rasogolla and danadar rasogolla. Then, personality of Swami Vivekananda in order to according to another source of information, Braja make Navin Chandra Das’s sponge rasogolla Moyra, who was an ancestor of Dinu Mayara, appear big! an inhabitant of Sitanath Ghosh Street of Beniatola, Kolkata, had started a shop near The Evolution of Rasagola from Chhena Kolkata High Court and discovered how to It is clear from the discussion of earlier prepare rasogolla. This has been described in topics, the impure chhena did not become pure Bhowmik’s book. Therefore, many give credit because of Sri Chaitanya nor did it come to to Braja Moyra as the pioneer of first good quality Odisha from Bengal courtesy. Chhena was rasogolla in Kolkata. always a favourite delicacy in Odisha and it has However, it is known from descriptions on been regarded as a pure ingredient in food Navin Chandra Das that he had started his career offerings made to deities. as an apprentice at the Kali Indra Shop and went It is an interesting history in itself — how on to open a separate shop with Kali Indra at chhena become gola (balls of cottage cheese) Bhaguali. Later on, he opened an independent and acquired rasa (syrup) and became rasagola sweet shop near Jorasanko as advised by his (balls of cottage cheese put in syrup). A number mother. Initially, though he prepared different of imaginary stories have been put forth to prove varieties of , he gained fame for rasogolla.

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It is said that he started preparing rasogolla during From the description of its recipe found in books 1868. Since it was soft like sponge and had a on food in Bengal, it can be compared with rounded form, it was referred to as sponge Chhenajhilli of Nimapada or Rasabali of rasogolla. To magnify its significance, Bhowmik Kendrapada, Odisha. It is also a sweet like has said—‘America was full of aboriginal tribes. rasogolla. It is one of the items in the chhapan Later, it was discovered by Columbus. Similarly, bhog (fifty-six items of food) at Lord Jagannath there was dela rasogolla; Navin Chandra Das gave temple, Puri. There is no doubt about the fact it a new form and presented it to the world. That’s that jhilli or rasabali was prevalent much before why people started calling him ‘Rasogollar Chhena-bara of Kolkata. Columbus / Baghbazarer Nabin Das (Columbus of rasogolla, Navin Das of Baghbazaar) out of So, if Chhena-bada of Bengal is an older love. However, it has come to knowledge that form of rasogolla, the same variety of sweets such Gopal Moyra and others also prepared rasogolla as chhena jhilli and Rasabali of Odisha are even in the manner of Navin Chandra. much older forms of Rasogolla. In this context, it can be mentioned that there is a long tradition of Gopalgola, Jatingola and Bhabanigola preparing another sweet of same variety called The Bengalis view that there are mentions rasabara which found in . The of many other rasogollas in the history of sweets Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosa confirms it as in Bengal apart from Navin Das’s rasogolla. Their a sweet of Odisha.21 ‘pages from past’ say, Bipradas Mukhopadhyay Rasakora: Rasagola had first written about the preparation method of rasogolla in a book title Mistanna Paka.18 It The sweetmeat called Rasakora was has been mentioned in the Oxford Companion prevalent in Odisha for several centuries. In to Sugar and Sweets19 that the second edition Odisha ‘kora’ usually refers to grated coconut of this book was published in 1906. According mixed with thick sugar syrup and made into balls. to it, Gopal Moyra had prepared a sweet similar The prevalence of this sweet is known from to rasogolla in Vardhaman. Its name was ancient Odia dictionaries. Christian missionary Gopalgola. According to another magazine Reverend Amos Sutton has mentioned it in his Mistikatha,20 published by the West Bengal Odia-English dictionary published in 1843. In Sweets Traders’ Association, similar kind of his dictionary, An Oriya and English sweets were prepared during the same period of Dictionary,22 rasakora is explained as a kind of time. Those were known as Jatingola, sweetmeat; savoury, liquefied.23 This alludes to Bhabanigola, Rasugola. rasagola. Similarly, in William Brooks’ dictionary, To acknowledge Navin Chandra Das as An Oriya and English dictionary published in the pioneer in making rasogolla seems unjustified 1847, this has been explained as a sweet of a 24 from this perspective. rounded shape. Therefore rasakora may be said to be a synonym of rasagola. These two Chhena Bara: Chhena Jhilli dictionaries were published much before the so- There is a story prevalent in Kolkata that called invention of rasagola by Navin Chandra Chhena bada is the ancestral form of rasogolla. Das.

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Guda or Gouda vs. the City of Sugar Emily Sona Minchin are still there at the Odisha Haripada Bhowmik has said that since State museum. Bengal was famous for guda (), it is known This episode is significant in rasagola as ‘Goudadesha’(place of guda). But historically, context—during that time Aska sugar factory was Odisha was famous for sugar in India. The first popular all over India and abroad for its advanced sugar factory of Asia was established in 1824 in sugar technology. It was the first sugar factory in Aska, Odisha. However, Ulbe Bosma has written Asia. Aska was known as the City of Sugar. This a research-based book The Sugar Plantation indicates that sugar was more easily available to in India and : Industrial production, Odias who prepared rasagola than people in 1770-2010.25 Its page 83 has a passage which Bengal. But the temples used a kind of sweetener says, a man called John Binni, who belonged to distilled from jaggery through the use of purely the Binni family that lived in Madras since 1840, country method. This sweetener was well-known has established the sugar factory in Aska. It was as nabata. The Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha named as ‘The Aska Sugar Works and Distillery says it as kanda, nabata, and guda bikara. In Ltd.’ One of the shareholders of the factory was temple’s parlance, it is known as khandasara.27 Fredrick James Vivien Minchin. After thirty years, he married an Odia woman and settled in Aska. The Rasagola of Dandi Ramayana He brought over modern from Germany Jaggery was the sweetener used in rasagola and made the sugar factory so advanced that it before the use of sugar. In this context, we have gained unparalleled popularity in sugar trade in mentioned the existence of words such as India.’ rasakora, chhena-bada in the Purnachandra However, a slightly different version of the Odia Bhasakosa. But all these similar-sounding story says, Minichin had bought the factory in words don’t guarantee confirmation in favour of 1856 and gave it a new form. He had exported rasagola. The Dandi Ramayana offers machines from Germany by a ship. The fifteenth confirmation in this regard. In Pundit Surjya century Gangabansanucharita Champu26 Narayan Das’ Central Sahitya Akademi award- mentions about the naval route. A Report prepared winning book Odia Sahityara Itihaasa (History by Nabakrushna Chaudhury Centre for of Odia Literature) Part I,28 it is written that there Development Studies, Bhubaneswar, has briefly is the mention of rasagola in Balaram Das’ Dandi mentioned this and has written about Fredrik Ramayana. Minchin and Sona Minchin in its seventh chapter Another eminent researcher of Odia titled ‘Transport and Communication’. It may be Literature, Bholanath Rout has also written that specially mentioned that at that time a bronze there is mention of the word Rasagola in Dandi statue of Minchin Saheb, and another marble Ramayana in his Ph.D. thesis titled ‘Dandi statue of his Odia wife, Suna (Sona Madam/ Emily Ramayanare Odisha ra loka sanksruti’.29 Sona Minchin) were established. Though the bronze statue of Fredrick Minichin was later Another example is the book Typical stolen, the marble statue of Sona Minchin is Selections from Odia Literature edited by Bijay preserved at the State Museum. Both the Chandra Majumdar and published by Calcutta mementos of Fredrick James Vivian Minchin and University in 1921.30 This had been published with

84 April - 2017 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 the financial assistance of King Biramitrodaya December 14, he had written a poem titled, ‘Bali Singhdeo. In its first part, there is an excerpt from ’ in the weekly Indradhanu. It was a first- Balaram Das’s Ramayana in the section on hand account of Cuttack’s famous .35 ancient Odia poets. This excerpt also contains He has written: the words: chhena, chhena products and The sweetmeat’s shop glitters 31 rasagola. Its facsimile is available on World e- It showcases ladoo, rasagola, barphi, jalpi 32 book library. Sir Ashutosh Mukherjee, the then and tejapatra podapistaka. Vice-chancellor of Calcutta University has written It also has kanchagola, Sarapuli, puli a foreword to it. There is a description of ancient malapua, mohan bhoga and lalmohana. 33 Odia poets in the long introduction. In the How much I can narrate, discussion on Balaram Das, his relationship with If one does not eat after seeing all this Sri Chaitanya has been indicated. It has been My tongue already drools clearly stated that Balaram Das’s time coincided The sweetmeat’s wife, a skimmer in hand with the time of gajapati kings, Purusottam Dev fries puri and kachuri with care. and Prataprudra Dev. Balarama Das had completed writing the Ramayana by the time he It clearly shows that a few poets of Kolkata was thirty-two. It was the time of gajapati king (then Calcutta) might have been impressed by the Purusottam Dev (1467-1497). Hence by the time taste of rasogolla and poems written on it, but by Sri Chaitanya came to Odisha, Balaram Das was that time rasagola was already a much-relished already very old. This was half a century before sweet in the huge fair, Bali Jatra. Again, the Sri Chaitanya came to Odisha and before nearly ‘kanchagola’ mentioned here is not name-centric 350 years of the so-called invention of modern like Kolkota’s Jatin-gola, Gopalgola, Bhabani- rasogolla in 1868. gola; its name indicates its quality. Calicut Melana vs. Cuttack Bali Jatra Rasogolla in Bengali Encyclopedia It has been indicated from the earlier In this context, another solid evidence is discussion that rasagola was prevalent in Odisha the Bangla Biswakosa by Nagendranath Basu since fifteenth-sixteenth century. But then, a few (1866-1936). It is the first encyclopedia in recent evidence may also be provided in this Bengali. After a long arduous labour for twenty- discussion. Haripada Bhowmik has included a seven years, Nagendranath Basu could publish poem ‘Rasogolla ra staba (Praises to rasogolla) 24 parts of it, the last part was published by him in his book. As indicated in the book, this poem in 1911. In that he has said rasogolla as a ‘desaja’ written by Rakhal Das Adhikari in amitrakshar (country) word. There is no explanation that it is rhyme was first published in the magazine a Bengali word or sweet invented in Bengal. Rasikata, part I, on page 30 in 1896.34 It is clear Similarly, there is no mention that it is a Bengali from this that Bhowmik has not found any other word in the Bongiya Sabdakosa (Benagli example relating to rasogolla in Dictionary) edited by Haricharan Bandhopadhya written earlier than that. But in Odia poetry, there and published by Sahitya Akademi.36 The word is another informative and interesting poem. This rasogolla is also not included in another important poem is written by famous writer belonging to a dictionary Bangla bhasar abhidan (1998) royal dynasty, Damodar Pattanayak. In 1893, published by Sishu sahitya sansad.37

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In this context, eminent historian as well as chhena rasagolara ullekha’ (The mention of scholar on nineteenth century Odisha, Kailash chhena rasagola in Odisha’s Folk literature) that Chandra Dash has raised a pertinent question in there is a great deal of similarity between his research-based essay, ‘Fresh Light on suklamanda (delicacy prepared with steamed Rasogolla’ as to why in a Bengali encyclopedia rice balls with chhena and grated coconut ) of nineteenth century ‘rasogolla’ has been and rasagola (cottage cheese balls dropped described as a ‘deshaja’ (country word)? Why in a light sugar syrup) in the traditional brata in is ‘rasogolla’ not mentioned as an invention of Odisha, Sudasha brata.42 Sudasha brata is a Bengal ? Is there any written evidence to establish worship offered to and fast observed by Odia that rasogolla was invented in Kolkata in 1868 ?38 women to appease goddess Lakshmi on a Thursday. According to traditional rules of osha It is time Bengal answers all these bratas, it is customary to offer goddess Lakshmi questions. balls of chhena mixed with jaggery on this day. The Hindi ‘Rasogulla’ of Nagendranath Basu According to Ojha, as chhena-manda and chhena gula offering are very dear to goddess Lakshmi, Nagendranath Basu was not only the Lord Jagannath brings rasagola with him to compiler of Bangla Biswakosa, he was also the appease an angry Lakshmi on the day he returns editor of the Hindi Bishwakosa included in the to his abode on the last day of the car festival. Encyclopedia Indica.39 This Hindi encyclopedia published in 1919 has a word rasogolla and However, there’s no systematic research Nagendranath Basu has described it as a Hindi on rasagola in Odisha or on the prevalent tradition word.40 This clearly indicates that Nagendranath of rasagola as a ritual offering. The available Basu had doubts over the word rasogolla as a information on this topic has not been complied Bengali word and the fact that this sweet prepared yet. Eminent playwright of Odisha, Gopal with chhena was an invention of Bengal. Chhotray has written a chapter titled ‘Rasagola of Cuttack and Rasagola of Kolkata’ in his memoir Odisha’s Rasagola Pathika.43 In this chapter, there is a comparative There’s no dearth of lore, memoirs and analysis between Odisha’s rasagola and rasogolla stories centering on rasagola in Odisha. But unlike of Kolkata,44 and the superiority of rasagola of in Bengal, literature on rasagola has not been Odisha has been established. compiled systematically in Odisha. Starting from Everybody in Odisha knows that Bhairaba Sarala Mahabharata to Dandi Ramayana, Chandra Mohanty is an unforgettable personality Ambika Bilasa, and Bidagdha Chintamani, in the history of Odishan sports. Odishan food culture is amply described in all describes: ‘Once two couple from Kolkata came these books. In this context, especially notable and became his guests. That day Bhairab babu is in Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosa, there is a told Gopal babu: ‘they have come from Kolkata. line ‘Sankalpara manda hela satya rasagola’ under Their rasagola is not only popular in Kolkata but the entry, rasagola. In the description, it is outside the country as well. You live in Balu bazaar mentioned ‘Chintamani.’41 In the July issue of area—please advise me from which shop should Pourusha, Tulasi Ojha, an eminent scholar, has we bring good quality sweets and offer them. Tell written in an essay, ‘Odishara loka sahityare me, which sweets should we offer to them.’

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Gopalbabu said, ‘It is true that rasagola of Then Odisha or Bengal—where was the Kolkata is very popular. But we have Banchha origin of Rasagola? An episode relating to Madhu Sahu’s shop at college square; rasagola, Sudan Das, the pride of Odisha, is significant in kshiramohana or rajabhga of Rangia shop in Balu this context. bazaar, and sponge rasagola of Govind Sahoo’s In 1951, a book titled ‘Utkal Gouraba shop near High court: I am sure your guests have Madhusudan was published by Utkal University. never had a chance to relish such sweets. Let me It was written by Naba Kishore Das.47 At that make a list. You go and bring these sweets from time, he had a wish to write a biography of Madhu Rangia’s shop.’ Sudan Das, but Madhu babu did not show any inclination. Bhairaba babu followed his words. Later, when he met Gopal Chhotray, Bhairaba babu said After Madhu babu’s death, he wrote the in a relaxed manner: “you’re absolutely right. They biography, Utkal Gouraba Madhusudan. In that have profusely praised our sweets made with he has indicated: “whatever is written in this book chhena, particularly rasagola and rajabhoga.” is based on archival papers etc. there’s very little After describing this in his memoir, Chhotray has which is gathered from hearsay. The book has a concluded: “From his words I gathered they foreword by Chintamani Acharya. In this book an episode from Madhu babu’s life as a lawyer preferred our rasagola over rasagola of Kolkata.” has been described. On its basis, Dash Benhur, Nirad C. Choudhury is an eminent Indian- the Odia writer, wrote a column, titled ‘Mitharu born English writer. Once he had written an essay Luna jaye’ (From Sweets to ) in the daily in the renowned English weekly The Illustrated .48 Later, it has been included as a chapter weekly of India on Indian food.45 He had also in his fictionalized bio-novel of Madhusudan Das, given the credit to Bengal for sweets made with Pagadi Purusha.49 In that there is a description chhena and milk like food expert, K T Achaya. of a court case that Madhusudan Das had fought. Gopal Chhotray has referred to this essay and The case was fought in 1901-02. There is a said—”pity, Odisha, the neighbouring state of description of Madhu babu questioning a man of Bengal, is famous as a centre for making sweets ‘Madhu-baishya’ (Sweet Confectioner) caste. with chhena and milk products, especially the The description is as follows: coastal areas like Cuttack, Puri and , why “Madhusudan asked—‘Brother, what’s this is not mentioned in Nirad Choudhury’s your name? I just forgot it.’ 46 essay? ’ Witness—Barajananda Sahoo. Such biased opinions are not confined to Madhusudan—‘Sahu’ means? Nirad C. Choudhury or south Indian food historian K.T. Achaya—many others have done this too. Witness—our caste is ‘madhubaishya’. Nevertheless, Odisha is the origin of rasagola Madhusudan: Now I understand you burns like an inextinguishable flame from under belong to the family of renowned sweet the debris of such misinformation. There are many confectioner Kangali Sahu. Bengali, Indian and foreign food scholars who The witness looked at Madhusudan have defended for Odisha. excitedly. Madhusudan knew this was the right

April - 2017 87 ISSN 0970-8669 Odisha Review chance: ‘Look brother, you prepare sweets, “Rasogolla. As soon as one hears this rasagola, mohanbhoga since time immemorial and word, one’s tongue drools. This sweet is regarded sweeten the mouth of people, that’s why Odias as an identity marker of Bengalis. And yet, no and Bengalis speak such sweet words; why don’t matter how strongly the Bengalis claim rasagola you utter a sweet word?’ to be their own, one must feel surprised that its origin was in Odisha. It is a sweet prepared in The witness lowered his face. After that Odisha for ages and ages. Even this sweet is whatever Madhusudan asked him, he burst out offered to Lord Jagannath and Sri Lakshmi at all truths happily. The judge too seemed amused. Lord Jagannath temple, Puri. In the mid-nineteenth Madhusudan won the case.” century, many Brahmin cooks came to Bengal This case was most probably in 1901-02, from Odisha in search of work. Incidentally, many but the tradition of preparing rasagola in the varieties of recipes, including rasagola, must have ‘Madhu-baishya’ family goes back to his come to Bengal with them. Nonetheless, here grandparents’ days. If that was calculated as 70- rasagola was popularized by a sweet vendor 80 years, then rasagola was prepared by that called Navin Chandra Dash. After him his son family fifty years earlier than Navin Chandra Das. KC Dash has managed the business. By his effort, rasagola got to be exported abroad.” This passage Further, eminent journalist Subhash clearly indicates that rasagola became popular Chandra Pattnaik has indicated in a post on his after it was brought from Odisha. web journal (ORISSAMATTERS.COM) on 31 July 2015, on the basis of several archival data, a Another recent supporter of this view is a family belonging to Bandal of Banki in Odisha journalist from Bengal, Biswabijaya Mitra. On th has been preparing rasagola for seven generations. 6 July 2015, one of his articles was titled, ‘Who 51 On the other hand, it is found that Navin Chandra was the inventor of Rasagola? ’ In this article he Das’s family has been engaged in preparing has mentioned about the dispute between Odisha rasagola for the last three generations only. It is and Bengal over the origin of rasagola and gone gathered that the family in Banki had offered on to say how it has been prevalent in Jagannath rasagola to the king and the king, impressed by temple, Puri since a very long time. In addition, the sweet, had granted them seven acres of levy- he has quoted another food researcher, Pritha Sen, free land. who has researched on the food preferences of Bengalis—”In the mid-18th century, many cooks And then, it’s not that only writers and employed in large Bengali homes were Odias. It researchers of Odisha claim rasagola belongs to is possible they brought the rasagulla with them.” Odisha; many writers and researchers from On 24 August 2015, the New Indian Bengal also support this claim without hesitation. Express had organized a literary festival in A great evidence is found in the popular Bhubaneswar. In one of the sessions, the topic weekly Bartamana, issue April 2011.50 There is of discussion was, ‘Why was there so much trash an article by Samrat Nandi in this issue. In a in Indian food?’ In this Professor Puspesh Panth section, ‘Ektu Janun, ektu bhabun’ (Know a little, had taken part and repeated his opinion. In that Think a little), he has provided an interesting festival, the renowned film-maker, Imtiaz Ali, had description: said since the quality of Odishan rasagola is far

88 April - 2017 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 superior to the Bengal rasagola, it could surely a former principal at Kolkata Institute of Hotel be originated in Odisha. In that festival in another Management. In this, S M Gunni has placed session, the detective Bengali writer, Sovan , chhena jhilli and rasagola Choudhury had made a humorous remark in this among the sweets prepared with milk products context. He said: Once the Bengalis were proud in an article in Imaging Odisha, two-volume of and . But coffee table books on Odishan history and not it seems there have no one to be proud of, culture.55 and that is why they seem to be saying to Odias, The food offerings mentioned in the ‘Please don’t take away rasagola from us. You Swattwalipi of Lord Jagannath temple have temples of Puri and Konark to be proud of, what do we have to be proud of now?” Rasagola has been offered to appease goddess Lakshmi on the day of Niladri Bije for In this context, Professor Utpal Roy several centuries at Lord Jagannath temple, Puri. Choudhury’s remark is mention worthy. In the But many argue that the use of rasagola is not first week of August 2011, he had been invited as mentioned in Sattwalipi (Record of Rites of, a guest by a trust formed in memory of Lord Jagannath Temple, Puri). But then, even if Bikalananda Kar, a prominent rasagola trader of there is no mention of rasagola in particular, there Odisha. Dr. Roy Choudhury is a professor at the is mention of ‘bhoga bidhi’ (manual for food department of Food Technology and Bio-chemical offerings) in the Sattwalipi. Earlier, this ritual was Engineering, Jadavpur University. In that gathering celebrated on the twelfth day of full moon phase he had said—Rasagola is offered as a food at of the month Aashadh. Therefore, the procedure Puri temple in Odisha since thirteenth century, for has been mentioned in the context of ‘Dwadasi- nearly seven hundred years. Reports on this Niladri Bije’. In this, it is written “Bada Thakur meeting were published in the famous English and are brought to the throne. While daily Pioneer on 5th August, 2011 and other 52 they were brought, at the Suasari temple, Pati media. Besides, eminent Television journalist Mohapatra offer worship to them. In Jagamohan Alokananda Mukherjee, scholar Dipti Roy, food the Holy Dieties are also offered worship.”56 researcher, food specialist Charmin O’Brien, S.M Guni have opined that Odisha was the place of Similarly, it is written in the context of Lord origin of rasagola. Jagannath’s ‘Niladri Bije’: When the door opens, and Lord Jagannath arrives near the place where Charmin O’Brien’s famous book, The Lakshmi is already waiting, Bhitarachha Penguin Food Guide to India has one chapter 53 Mohapatra Sevak unties the knot of the ritual of title, ‘Odisha: Feeding the Divine’ . He has marriage. They are offered worship. After this, written: “One food item that is the subject of dispute Lord Jagannath sits on his throne.” between the two states is the chhena based rasagulla… The most likely story is that the The significance of this procedure is that rasagulla came into Bengal from Odisha but was when Balabhadra and Subhadra are offered commercially produced and popularized in different delicacies at this time, Lord Jagannath is Calcutta.54 Similarly, Shamsuddin Mohummden offered rasagola. Though there is no specific Gani was not only a director at the Tourism mention of the food offering made here, it can be department under Government of India, but was said without doubt that it is rasagola. Traditionally

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Bhitarachha Mohapatra prepares the rasagola in Jagannath (when he’s down with fever) , Sri a sattvik manner at his home, and offers that to Chaitanya didn’t get to have a glimpse of Lord Lakshmi on behalf of Lord Jagannath. Jagannath and went to have a glimpse of Sri In the Bhitarachha practice code in Alarnath at the Alarnathpith nearby, but there is Sattwalipi, this finds a particular mention.57 no practice of making rasagola offering there. The Regarding the ‘Bhitarachha seva’ on the day of favourite offering is kshiri (little amount of boiled 59 ‘Niladri bje’, it has been mentioned that ‘this rice added to sweetened and condensed milk). servitor offers light manohi at the meeting altar, On the other hand, Bansidhar Goswami, the head makes light offering to garuda, while Lord of the Bada Odia mutt established by Jagannath Jagannath descends from the chariot and goes Das in Baseli Sahi of Puri, says: According to the to sit on the jeweled throne. While the knot of the daily and annual procedure and manual of the marriage to Rukmini is untied he is offered dahi mutt, rasagola is offered as bhoga at least more pati, ghasa, bidia manohi and Bhog offering. Since than three hundred years in the mutt.”60 only rasagola is offered by Bhitarachha The Evidence from Madalapanji and Desha Mohapatra for ages, even though it is not written Khanja specifically, it is ‘rasagola.’ There is no mention of any other food offering nor has any other sweet The question arises, while Anangabhima ever been seen to be offered. Dev introduced new food offerings at Lord Jagannath Temple, did rasagola find a place in it? Rasagola offering by Monasteries In this regard, we can take the help of Not only this, the mutts involved in Lord Madalapanji. In the hand-written manuscript of Jagannath’s seva and worshipping such as Bada Madalapanji which is preserved in Odisha State Odia mutt, Radhaballav mutt, Cuttaki mutt, Newla Archives, there is the description regarding the Das mutt and Radhashyam mutt make rasagola food offering made during the reign of offering since the last hundred to three hundred Anangabhima Dev—”In the morning offering,… years. In this context, eminent scholar on the the food will form a mountain…pancakes such tradition of ‘Puri mutts’, Bhaskar Mishra makes as kakara, arisa, pili, apamala, ghola, badanadi, special mention of Raghab Das mutt. He had tipuri are decorated as trees, sara papudi, gotika, made an elaborate discussion on this in the journal rasakora become like flowers. Chhena manda, Pourusha,58. He says, ‘This is the only mutt which ripe banana, baby coconut all this will be brings rasagola to offer to Lord Jagannath. A decorated as . The servitor will offer these servitor offers it to Lord Jagannath after the to Lord Jagannath.” Rukmini marriage knot is untied on behalf of the mutt. This tradition is of about three hundred In Pourusha, year 50, issue I, July 2016, years.” An important piece of information Sunil Rath, a scholar, has made an elaborate 61 regarding this is, while Bhowmik claims that the discussion on this. In this issue, in another article, chhena offering was first made to Lord Jagannath the Pratihari servitor of Puri temple, Purnachandra after king Prataprudra Dev came under the Gochhikara has discussed many ancillary influence of Sri Chaitanya, no such offering is procedures followed at the temple in this context. made at Sri Chaitanya Goudiya mutt in Puri on To provide milk and milk products, he has that day. Similarly, at the time of anasara of Lord mentioned there are many procedures such as

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Mahabhoi seva, dudhaghara seva, Baragotha the daily rituals at Lord Jagannath temple. The Palei sevak seva and gauda nijoga seva.62 seventeenth chapter of this book describes Lord In the book Jagannath and the Gajapati Jagannath’s return to abode, known as the Niladri 66 Kings of Orissa, edited by Dr. Gaganendra Nath bije. Dash, eminent scholar of Odia literature and According to customs, after Sri Jagannath consciousness, there is mention of food Balabhadra and goddess Subhadra enter the offerings of Lord Jagannath quoted from ancient temple, the aides close the entrance door at pothis, ‘Desha Khanja’, ‘Sevaka bhiana o Seva goddess Lakshmi’s order. As he cannot enter the bibarana’. In this it has been mentioned that temple, Lord Jagannath sends message through rasakora, Chhena ladoo, o chhena manda are goddess Lakshmi’s aides. After this, goddess mentioned in the morning offering, noon dhup, Lakshmi tells her aides to open the door. evening dhupa.63 Later, all these bhogas are According to ‘Niladri Mahotsaba’ after the aides mentioned in the Srimandira Swattwalipi.64 It and attendants tell her about Lord Jagannath’s may be said that all these are earlier form of sweet words and humble requests, Lakshmi gives rasagola. Rasagola is apparently chhena ladoo up her affected anger and orders them to open or ball of cottage-cheese. The only difference is the door in an elated mood. Lokanath Vidyadhar balls of chhena are boiled in sugar syrup to prepare describes the episode: rasagola. Rasagola is boiled in sugar syrup And then the aides go quickly and tell whereas ‘chhena manda’ is prepared by Lakshmi happily. balls of boiled rice stuffed with chhena. Lord Jagannath who had been away for The Rasagola of Niladri Bije nine days Rasagola has been traditionally used as a Appear at the goddess’s door, you hear! ritual offering on the last day of car festival at the We have closed the doors time of Niladri Bije (Lord Jagannath’s return to Outside, lord is waiting. his abode). Jagabandhu Padhi, eminent scholar And he is requesting me and you on Jagannath cult, views the tradition to be at least How much I cannot say. six hundred years; others say this must be at least Hearing such nectar words three hundred years.65 Goddess is elated and happy She’s never one hard-hearted In this context, we can illustrate this point She is innocent, chaste and calm. with an example from a book by poet Lokanath So unable to hold anger in her heart Vidyadhara, who belonged to post seventeenth She orders her aides century. His book has been published under the To open the doors series, Utkaliya Prachya Granthamala (ancient And let the Lord come inside.67 books of Odisha) by Directorate of Culture, Odisha in 1991. In this book, the first chapter is According to the custom of Niladri Bije, Mangala Charan (Obeisance to lords), and after this the servitors role-playing as aides go second chapter to twenty-fifth chapter describe and open the doors and the lord walks into the different rituals of Lord Jagannath between Snana temple. In front of the bhandara room, Lakshmi Yatra to Chandan Yatra. The last chapter depicts and Nayarana meet and the marriage-knot

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(gainthala) is untied and at the time of this divine describable. Only the devotees present there get meeting, Lord Jagannath offers Rasagola to to experience the divine feeling. Therefore, though Lakshmi to appease her. traditionally rasagola is made as a food offering One of the important aspects of this for centuries, there’s hardly any literary work in ‘gainthala’ knot is on the eleventh day of the full Odia which mentions this. Bhitarachha moon phase in the month of Jyestha (lunar month Mohapatra, the servitor, prepares this offering at corresponding approximately to 15 March-15 his house in a pure way. The prominent mutts too April), the wedding ceremony takes place after offer rasagola to Lord Jagannath on the chariot. the abduction of Rukmini. Immediately after that It is evident from all this that rasagola was Lord Jagannath joins the (bathing popular in Odisha much before Navin Chandra festival) and after the bath got down with fever. Das prepared and popularized it in Bengal. Later, And once he recovers from fever, he gives a Kelu Behera of Pahala village situated on the glimpse of his new vigour (nabajoubana) to outskirt of Bhubaneswar and Bikalananda Kar devotees and goes out on a chariot accompanied of played a key role in popularizing it. In by his brother and sister. That’s why the wedding memory of Kelu Behera, there is a huge rasagola knot tied earlier had not been untied. That gets market in Pahala, and there is a society called untied on the day of ‘Niladri Bije’, the day he Kelu Behera Sweet Traders’ Association. Like returns to his abode. The year nabakalebara the huge business of rasagola by Navin Chandra falls, there’s one specialty, the knot is tied to the Das’s family and his son KC Das and Dhiman old wooden Brahman, but the knot is untied from Das, Bikalananda Kar’s son Prashant Kar has a the new form. huge business of rasagola, too. Why there is no particular mention of The history of rasagola in Odisha is at traditional rasagola offering in the manual, we find least five hundred years, and so many a clue to this question in a further description of varieties and innovativeness are found in this. Lokanath Vidyadhar’s ‘Niladri Mahostaba’. It has In 2015, on the occasion of Niladri Bije in been described in this manner: the nabakalebara year, there was an So the aides went hurriedly and opened interesting incident following the celebration the doors of Rasagola day. To the plain rasagola were To the lord. added different flavours and colours: The lord comes inside spinach, mint, papaya, carrot, basil, mango, and arrives at the entrance of bhandara. pineapple, orange, jaggery, chocolate, Sister, here he meets Lakshmi saffron, , two-in-one, lichi and coconut. That moment is divine All such varieties of rasagola of many And so I am not describing it here. created an attractive ambience.69 Those who have seen it know It is not always possible to fix a specific The daughter of the ocean-god date to a traditional ritual which started many 68 Lakshmi knows this, he’s her husband. centuries ago. From this perspective, though the It means, this divine, intimate ritual can only specific time when rasagola was used on Niladri be witnessed, it can be experienced, but it is not Bije, it can be said it was prevalent in Puri between

92 April - 2017 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 three hundred years to seven hundred years. The 17. Bhowmik Haripada, Columbus of rasogolla, Page mention of rasagola in Dandi Ramayana shows 78. it is prevalent in Odisha for at least five hundred 18. Bipradas Mukhopadhyay. Mistanna Paka, , Vol- years. And the Srimandira Swattwalipi I,1887, Page 100-101. supports that it is offered on the day of Niladri 19. Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, Ed. Bije. This clearly proves that Odisha is the Darra Gold Stein. place of origin of Rasagola and it is the 20. Mistikatha, West Bengal Sweets Traders’ traditional ritual offering when Lord Association. Jagannath returns to his abode. 21. Rasabara, The Purnachandra Odia Bhasaokosa, References : page 7016. 1. Nandi, Samrat, Saptahik Bartaman, April, 2011. 22. An Oriya and English Dictionary. Ed. Amos Sutton, 1843. 2. Bhowmik, Haripada. Rasogolla Banglar Jagatmat no Abiskar, Kolkata, Gangchil, 2015. 23. An Oriya and English Dictionary, Ed. Amos Sutton, 1843. 3. Rasagola is pronounced by Bengali as ‘Rasogolla’, ‘’, ‘Rasogulla’. 24. William Brooks’ dictionary, An Oriya and English dictionary, 1847. 4. Artaballava Mohanty. Sarala Mahabharata, Madhya Parva, Sarala Sahitya Sansad, 2nd 25. Ulbe Bosma. The Sugar Plantation in India and edition 2007, page 875. Indonesia: Industrial production, 1770-2010, USA: Cambridge University Press, 2016. 5. Das Balaram, Dandi Balmiki Ramayan, Ed. Pundit Govind Rath, Rath Press: Cuttack, 1912. 26. Gangabansanucharita , a Sankrit epic by Basudeb Rath of Medieval Bhakti age. 6. Utkal Sahitya Samaj, Cuttack, Estd. 1903. 27. Khandasara. Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosa. Page 7. Utkal Bhasha Arthabhidhana, edited by Rev. W. 1919. Miller and Raghunath Mishra, 1868. 8. Pundit Gopinath Nandasharma, 28. Pundit Surjya Narayan Das’ Odia Sahityara Sabdatattwabodha Avidhana, 1916. Itihaasa (History of Odia Literature) Part I (1963). 9. Bhowmik Haripada, Page 32-33. 29. Bholanath Rout. ‘Dandi Ramayanare Odisha ra loka sanksruti’ (1998). 10. Bhowmik Haripada, Page 37. 30. Bijay Chandra Majumdar. (Ed.) Typical Selections 11 Niladri Mahodaya, chapter 50, Verse 28, Ed. from Odia Literature. Calcutta: Calcutta Brajakishore Swain, 2000. University, 1921. 12. Bhowmik Haripada, Page 59. 31. Bijay Chandra Majumdar. (Ed.) Typical Selections 13. Anama-19, Ed. Gokuli Mohanty, 1983. from Odia Literature. Calcutta: Calcutta University, 1921. Page 84. 14. Gobardhan Dora. Orissa: An Encyclopedia of Events, Sankalp Publication, Bhubaneswar, 2003. 32. Website: World e-book Library. 15. Karmangi, ‘mahashrama rajanijoga’ Anama-19, 33. Bijay Chandra Majumdar. (Ed.) Typical Selections Page 157-159. from Odia Literature. Calcutta: Calcutta University, 1921. Introduction, Page XVIII- 16. That sculptor depicts Shiva and Durga along with XXVIII. Lord Jagannath as well as King Langulanarsingh Dev in the presence of his guru, a dandi monk. 34. Bhowmik Haripada, Page 3.

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35. Damodar Pattanayak. ‘Bali Jatra’, Indradhanu. 53. The Penguin Food Guide to India,Charmaine O’ Cuttack, 1893. Brien, Penguin Books, 2013. 36. Bongiya Sabdakosa (Benagli Dictionary) edited 54. Feeding the Divine, the Penguin Food Guide to by Haricharan Bandhopadhya and published by India, 2013, Page 138-144. Sahitya Akademi, 1967. 55. Culinary Traditions of Odisha, Ed. Herman Kulke, 37. Bangla bhasar abhidan, 2nd edition, 1998, Prafulla, Pathagar Publication, 2013, Page 423-424. published by Sishu sahitya sansad. 56. Swattwalipi, Dwadashi Niladri Bije, Page 81. 38. Kailash Chandra Dash. Fresh Light on Rasagola, 57. Swattwalipi, Bhitarachha Sebara Niyama, Page 12. Academia edu. 58. Matha Paramparare Rasagola Bhoga, Bhaskar 39. Hindi Bishwakosa included in the Encyclopedia Mishra, Paurusha, Vol 50, Issue-I, July 2016, Page Indica, 1919, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 44. Delhi. 59. Sri Alarnath Deba, Itihasa O’ Aitihya, Ed. Sanjaya 40. Hindi Bishwakosh, Nagendranath Basu, Kumar Dasbarma, Team Media and Hospitality. Encyclopaedia Indica, Vol.XIX, Page 204. 60. Letter of Bansidhar Das Goswami to Govt. of 41. Purna Chandra Odia Bhasakosha, Page 7013. Odisha Special Research Committee, dt. 42. Tulasi Ojha, ‘Odishara loka sahityare chhena 27.09.2015. rasagolara ullekha’ in Pourusha, July, 2016, Page 61. Rasagolara Janmabhumi Sri Kshetra O’ 53. Srimandira, Sunil Rath, Paurusha, Vol. 50, Issue-I, 43. Chhotray Gopal. Pathika, Vidyapuri, Cuttack, July 2016. 1995. 62. Lord Jagannathanka Upasanare rasagola, Purna 44. Chhotray, Gopal, Pathika, Page 141. Chandra Gochhikara, Paurusha, Vol-50, Issue-I, July 2016. 45. Nirad C. Choudhury. essay in The Illustrated weekly of India. Ref. Pathika, Page 141. 63. Jagannath and the Gajapati Kings of Orissa, Gaganendra Nath Dash, Manohar, Delhi, 2010. 46. Gopal Chhotray. Pathika. Page 144. 64. Lord Jagannath Temple Record of Rights, Law 47. Naba Kishore Das. Utkal Gouraba Madhusudan. Department, Govt. of Orissa, 1956. Bhubaneswar: Utkal University, 1951. 65. Purusottam Tattwa o SriJagannath, Jagabandhu 48. Dash Benhur, ‘Mitharu Lunajaye’ (From Sweets Padhi, Grantha Mandira, 1996. to Salt) in the daily Sambad. 12 May 2012. 66. Lokanath Vidyadhar. Utkaliya Prachya 49. Dash Benhur, Pagadi Purusha, Ama Odisha, Granthamala. Odisha: Directorate of Culture,1991. Bhubaneswar, 2015? 67. Lokanath Vidyadhar. Utkaliya Prachya 50. Samrat Nandi.‘Ektu Janun, ektu bhabun’ in Granthamala. Odisha: Directorate of Culture,1991. Bartamana, Issue April 2011. Page 120. 51. Biswabijaya Mitra. ‘Who was the inventor of 68. Lokanath Vidyadhar. Niladri Mahostaba, Odisha; Rasagola? Times of India, 6th July 2015. Page 40. 52. Rasgulla has its origin in Jagannath Temple at 69. Rasagola Divas report, Sambad, Mahanagara, 31 Puri, The Pioneer, 5th August, 2011. July 2015.

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