11 Kara•iner '97

The Journal of the Kootenay Mountaineering Club

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4o Karabiner 97 Vol. 34, 1997 The Journal of the Kootenay Mountaineering Club

Karabiner '97 Vol. 31, 1997 The Journal of the Kootenay Mountaineering Club

KMC Executive 1997

President David Mitchell Vice President Drelv Desiardins Secretary Leon Arishnekolf Treasurer Elaine Martin Trips Bob Dean—Summer David Mitchell—Winter Camps Laurie Charlton Social Joanne Baldassi Mountaineering School Peter Bullock Cabins and Trails Mark HaMilton Conservation Ted Ibrahim Newsletter Peter Tchir Karabiner Joan Grodzki

Karabiner '97 is published by The Kootenay Mountaineering Club PO Box 3195 Castlegar, BC V1N 3115

Cover Hiking Camp 1997 Elaine Martin Karabiner '97

Table of Contents

Editor's Forward, page 5 Joan Grodzki

President's Report, page 6 Dave Mitchel

Hamish Martin, page 7

Hiking Camp Camp 1, pagell Gayle McGhee Map Sugar Plum Spire, page 10 Camp 2, page 13 Graham Kenyon Camp 3, page 14 Reid Henderson

Trips and Trails Ochre Peak, page 16 Kim Kratky The Last Egyptian Peak, page 17 Kim Kratky , page 18 Kim Kratky Chilkoot Adventure, page 19 Pamela Jenkins September and Coppermine Mountains, page 21 Fred Thiessen Mount Whitney, page 22 Dave Adams Unofficial KMC 1997 Ski Trip or "Les Clients d'Enfre," page 23 This and That Water Color Reproduction, page 25 Jenny Baillie Mistmaidens, page 26 Murial Walton A Snowmelt Paradox, page 27 Norman Thyer Riffy, page 28 Be' Gordon Editor's Forward

summer. This year, almost all the articles were in by the beginning of the summer. Ths rest came later, and everybody Thadvalidreasonsastowhytheywerelate.I doknowthatwithafull-timejobandonlyhavingtheweekendsfreefor everythingh else in life, the time to write is very limited. i The first thing that is done when articles are received is the typing, if they are hand written. Typing and editing can bes done while you wait for others to complete their promised work. You cannot start the layout until you know the number andy the length of all articles, and everything is on hold until then. Pictures are another very important aspect of the layout. eI f those people who submit articles do not have pictures, one has to go to others and choose from their collection, they in turn ahave to look for the negatives, and then there is printing. r I would like to thank all those who contributed articles and pictures for this year's Karabiner. ' Good Luck to those who take on the future magazines. s Joan Grodzki K a r a b i n e r w a s a l i t t l e m o r e d i f f i c u l Jenny Baillie photo t t h a Karabiner '97 5 n l a s t y e a r ' s . L a s t y e a r I h a d a l l t h e a r t i c l e s b y t h e b e g i n n i n g o f t h e President ' ing this President's report. The T dog ate my first one, but I really onlyh have to make excuses to Joan, the Karabineri editor, not to the general membership.ss This made me think about,i "who am I really writing this for, ands why?" m To answer this question, it's because yI don't often deal with the general mem- bershipRepo over executive type issues (such s as whether to eat cookies, cake, or both e at executive meetings!). Although I c meet many of you on trips, we don't ofteno talk about what it is that you ex- pectnrt of the KMC. I assume that most peopled belong to the club because they alike to hike or ski or climb or socialize. tI don't know if the membership realiz- tes how much administrative work the eclubby does. m How many of you actually reflect onp what it is that the club does, and what tyou want from it? I don't know every- one in the club. It is difficult to serve a theDav needs of a group of diverse people t who I don't know. We always welcome w your comments, complaints and acco- rlades, and we want to hear from you. i Some of the efforts of the execu- te tive are tangible (for example, the news- -letter, the trip schedules, socials) other things, although important, are not (cab- in maintenance, financial stuff, lobby- ing). Rather than review what the ex- M ft ecutive discussed in 1997, I would like to thank the rest of the executive on behalf of myself and on behalf of the summit of Ymir, not a club trip membership. chI know that everyone I've spoken President's deep thought for the year, "when the weather craps to enjoys receiving the newsletter. Some out, mountaineering's a bitch!" of us do more armchair mountaineer- ing than we'd like to because we just can't seem to get out on enough trips. Thee Karabiner allows us to relive or travel vicariously on adventures farther afield or more extended than the day trips. I enjoy reading the Karabiner, and I hope you enjoy this year's Karabiner.

6 Karabiner '97 Hamish Martin April 17, 1972—June 29, 1997

Hamish Martin died while climbing on the Mount MacBeth Ice fields on June 29, 1997.

parents Ian and Libby gave Hamish and his sister Fiona every opportunity to enjoy all outdoor activities. I When he was old enough, Hamish joined the Boy Scouts. He loved the outdoor challenges that the Scouts provided and wast a good leader and team member. Hamish achieved his Chief Scout's Award and traveled to Japan for an International Jamboree.i s His background in the mountains was extensive. Starting in a pack on his Mum's back, Hamish soon progressed to expertlyd navigating his own turns on the steepest and most tightly treed terrain at Red Mountain, whooping and hollering withi glee as he went. f The Martins often joined other families like the Homes, Brennans, Ports, Andersons, Ridges, and Hamiltons for camps fat Duncan and Kootenay Lakes. Hamish loved making rafts, playing in the sand, swimming or playing war games against ithe girls. However, the times he enjoyed the most were when we were able to go hiking and scrambling up the mountains. cHe would practically run after the men, singing as he went. His eagerness to explore came at a high price. At the ripe age of four he had already used several of his nine lives trying u to swim the Kootenay River in the spring run-off at MacLeod Meadows and attempting night from the garage roof. Neither lof these worked very well. Several more lives were used during his teenage years while climbing at Kinnaird Bluffs. No tdoubt many cliffs and trees at Red Mountain have some stories to tell about this veteran of chance. t o a c c e p t t h e l o s s o n s o m e o n e s o y o u n g a n Karabiner '97 7 d f u l l o f l i f e . H a m i s h w a s a n e x p e r i e n c e d m o u n t a i n e e r . H i s Hamish completed the Rock and Ice School with the KMC and joined lain at , the Climbing Camp. It was a wonderful opportunity for the two of them to enjoy 4 AO A the mountains together (without the girls!). Hamish soon became involved with i r 0 r 1 instruction at the Rock and Ice School, taking pleasure in helping others enjoy 1 the sport that he loved so much. 6 * Following his graduation from Rossland Secondary in 1990, Hamish went to ; Europe with Ian Deane. Together they explored the Scottish Highlands and many - of his Dad's old climbing haunts. Hamish worked for the winter as a ski techni- cian in Chamonix, France (a job he was well qualified, having worked at Red Mountain for several years). Following his winter stint. Hamish continued to travel, seeing most of Europe. and getting to know his family in Britain. Upon his return to , Hamish completed two years at Selkirk College in Engineering transfer courses. He was accepted at the University of Waterloo's Civil Engineering Co-op Program. He completed work terms with H.A. Simons and Atomic Energy of Canada at Deep River. During the time he spent at Waterloo, Hamish made many friends and quite a name for himself. He and a team of classmates rocked the world of engineering when they entered the very prestigious annual Concrete Toboggan Race. Their entry "Snow Fear" won Ist place overall. Not only was he good at the academics, but stories filtered across the county about his active social life and his passion for pottery! Upon his graduation. Hamish was employed by the H.A. Simons office in Trail. He moved back home to Rossland to live with his parents. His partner

Carolyn, girlfriend of two years, was to finish her Master's thesis and join him here where they would be making their home. His first month in Rossland was spent getting back into the lifestyle of the Kootenays, at home with the family, playing at the Kinnaird Bluffs and instructing at the KMC Rock School. Unfor- tunately the month ended all too soon. The accident on June 29 was a shock not only to family and friends, but also to the entire community. Over 200 people joined Hamish's family at a Memorial service in the Martin's garden on July 5. Tears of sorrow and of joy were shared as people recounted tales of his sense of humour, his caring nature, his daring exploits, and of his - joieday what de a huge loss his passing means to us. vivre."Grizzly bear activity prevented the placing of Hamish's relics on both the HisWoodbury and Gwi Him Lakes areas, two of his favorite places. On Labour Day frienweekend, with the appropriate group of friends present, he was laid to rest under dsa small cairn in the neck of land between the Sapphire Lakes in Kokanee Park. anHe is sorely missed by everyone whose lives were touched by him. d fam ily dem onst rate d8 Karabiner '97 o n t h a t Hiking Camps 1997

Sugar Plum Spire Laurie Charlton Photo

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crated, but it was very dark by the time will look redder after today. We all sat ry road turn-off, slathered on the group finished. Tents went up all on the top, some stayed longer that oth- W the bug juice, and shook over the place and it began to look and ers, eh Jill? I stayed with Margaret and hands.e There were new and old faces. feel like home (for the week anyway). we moseyed down later. We had con- Wem tried to get under way to the heli- The food was nestled in the safety of versation. good views, food, and even coptere pick-up destination quickly (not the coolers and rocks, and our bedrolls a quick dip that was chilly, but refresh- beingt sure where that would be). Our were unfurled in their tents. ing. The little wild flowers are begin- cavalcadea of cars wound their way up Many of us first-time keeners got ning to show, some Moss Campion and alongt the Duncan Lake and River—a suited up, went to the steeper snow sec- such. It is neat to look through Norm's totallyt beautiful area. The road was in tions with ice axes and learned how to little magnifier and then in his book to hfairly good condition as we bumped do a self-arrest. Well we laughed and discover what you were looking at. ealong, hopeful it would not rain. There screamed, and slid. Things get busy in camp as hikers Dwere a couple of spots that I thought As one looked about it was obvi- return and dinner gets under way. The uwould be good enough for the helicop- ous that we were in a large bowl, a very draw for the chores seem to be all nter to land, but we ended up in a fairly open and exposed hiking camp. It was worked out now, although switching copen area about 84 kilometres up the great and as the week went by, things still goes on as the days go by. I took aroad and hoped the heli could find us. changed dramatically with the warmer to my day in camp wed to chores, nAll the vehicles were unloaded, and the weather and the melting snow. Al- which were mostly meals. fsupplies and tents were piled and ready though, it was actually easier hiking the Renata has returned to a backwash. o to load. Then we worked madly on the first few days with all the snow on the Marilyn and Alan laugh as they go to rvehicles. Some people brought chick- boulders and scree. the "British Estates e en coops to put the cars in, others trust- It was apparent at the first dinner was- (not started). I sit overlooking the camp s ed mothballs (?). and others trusted fate. that we all loved to eat, and that we surefrom a rock perch and ponder it all t Everyone was excited. By the time the lucked out—the food that came pre- howwhile listening to happy hour. Do I -helicopter manned by Dave landed for pared was great, and our cook, Bev thathear beef stew and coleslaw? Even the pick up. we were organized and ready Gordon, did a superb job. salmon loaf disappeared and there to go. "Thanks" to Laurie's excellent The first day we woke to a beauti- were doubts. Lots of talk and laughter planning, and the three men in the suits ful morning. In various groups we ex- before bed. (Ron, Leon and ?). Everyone who lis- plored the area, and of course. report- Tuesday is a leisurely day for tened, followed directions well. We ed back at the end of our hike. People some, while others are off early and were a mixed group of - were always off early, and in different hard. Karl and Donella have joined the soned20 new hiking camp users. We were in groups. Renatta (the blue goat, as she slower group today. Felix heads off to andfor a great week and a great deal of came to be named because of her hik- the glacier. When we dine at noon, sea-laughter, but none of us knew that yet. ing prowess) led the gung-ho bunch Marg assumes her mother hen (with After we learned helicopter safety Ron, Leon. Jan. Donella, and Karl— binocs) position, and has everyone and how to board in groups of four, off up to the spires and the saddle to spotted and accounted for. So be care- we went, group by group into the wait- overlook the whole scene. Gayle, Bev. ful, you might be next.... We yell to ing unknown. At last it was my turn— Jill, Norm, Marilyn, and Alan hiked up the ascending group and what do we and for the first time—I loved it. It was the rim to another overlook. We saw get in return? Profanity! Imagine. just great, and definitely the easiest way the glacier area on a frozen lake and While Jill and I meandered home I've ever got to the alpine with all of river. It was a great day. We met up with we found pica apartments. There were my gear. We were quickly set down on Frits. It was getting late in the afternoon, piles of grass and lots of things to eat. a huge area with snow, small little so we sent Be' back to cook because It looked dry and cozy. Speaking of creeks, and boulders. Each person or we would surely have an appetite. A dry and cozy. the clouds look like rain. party scanned the area for dry tent spots. couple of names came to mind for mem- Some moved their tents to drier But first the group jobs—erecting the bers of the Sugarplum fairy group. Ask ground, they could now that the snow cook and supply tent, digging the biffy Jim. Insect in metamorphosis—Jan re- has receded. and setting up that tent. Actually it was ally knows how to layer. Boy does it ever get raunchy after not too rocky, and the digging is much The next day much the same group dinner—what was in that stew anyway. better than the fill job at the end??? All went to the saddle. The walk is a long We sure have the giggles. Do you went smoothly, and the weather coop- one, on snow, and in the sun. The faces know what an "awful rectom" is? To

Karabiner '97 11 sever the eye from the rectum to rid will go just as far. There were people Tonight is a late night since it is the one of a shitty view. How did we ever that went to the spires and some way last one. get on the topic of the biffy? Belay over to the next ridge. It turns out that Popcorn has finally been taken to down the biffy? Is this biffy duty? Jim we all got some NN here. The goats are in the state of real perfection. That was teaches the group Tai Chi. Gayle and the area and some see them. We end up thanks to Ron and crew. It was yummy. Bev continue the chi gong. Do I hear having a grueling day but all is well. We started writing the limericks. one party will be leaving for Squabb even the last few feet when I wished I Marge and friends produced the most at 5:30 a.m.?—have a nice time. We. had my ice axe. The group that went to hilarious skit. I have to say we had a Marilyn and I. find out that indeed the Squabb never got to the top. but it great week of laughter and hiking and binocs got turned on us as we bathed. sounded like they too had a good day. eating.... Thanks for that info Ron. There were a few scary moments. We Saturday dawns too early. We are We stayed up late last night mak- packed it in early because we were not really ready to leave. We all hang ing popcorn, watching the stars and tired. Tomorrow may be less strenuous? out. There is much less snow now. We laughing. We woke up on Wednesday I have succumbed. I leave in the laugh under the various colourful um- and the weather had come in. I had a morning with the gung-ho group and brellas. We are still creating limericks. small lake in one comer of my tent. head for the lake's waterfall area to go We have taken off the boots to learn Some early morning hikes were can- up to the saddle. For some reason I de- foot massage. celed and we all went to the cook tent cide to go back to the lakes to sit and "Well done everyone, a fair time to play cards and such. Watch out for just be. Then the drops fall and the was had by all from camp number I." those tempers. It is time to regroup. weather begins. I hold-up by a large There are some serious bridge players. leaning rock and watch many people Sincerely Gayle We are somehow back to biffy etiquette quickly go by, heading to camp and and ritual. Do we leave the digging of shelter. The gung-ho group turned back the new latrine to the second camp, shortly after I did to get out of the com- Done/la Anderson, Leon Arishenkoff since it seems to be their only duty??? ing storm—more food and cards. I went Alan Baker, Felix & Renate Belczyk, Renata shall lead the way with the new on a late stroll with Leon and Bev to Laurie Charlton (leader), Mireille & flag. (Hope all the campers enjoyed it.) find the right rock for a photo. Hope- Philippe Delesalle, Marilyn Gauthier, And perhaps a ten bare bum salute?? fully some of the pics turned out. Hey, Marg Gmoser, Bev Gordon (cook), Jim Karl was that your idea? Lunch is at what about the one with the shadow that Mattice, Gayle McGee, Karl McKusick, an all time premium for trades. People went down the long fissure? Bev was Jan Micklethwaite, Ron Perrier, Ted are getting desperate. getting quite artsy with it all, and her Steacy Frits Swinkles, Norman Thyer, The hikers that didn't leave early sketches too. Jill Watson

!Atm Chariton photo

12 Karabiner '97 Camp 2 by Graham Kenyon

camp is supposed to be fun and a time for the Night Fighters. the mosquitoes whin- camps past and present could lead relaxation. There are the flower people ing in at sundown. Boy, this is fun! Retire R the unsuspecting to the conclusion whose competitive spirit would rival to the tent? The entire roof is a radiant heat- thate the experience so closely approaches Donovan Bailey in a US track meet. There er: it's like sitting in an oven, slowly broil- perfectiona that heaven itself would be a are those understaters, they say they "might ing. At last, we have a use for a survival backwardd step. The vision of Julie An- scramble up that thing over the there," blanket—to keep the tent cool. idrews skipping through alpine meadows pointing at some distant peak barely above There is a cool place though. Only a nstrewn with flowers, tra-la-la-ing to the the horizon and faintly resembling An- kilometre or so from the camp there are gsound of music from who knows where is napurna. The young 'Turks with their glow- these delightful alpine pools. "So refresh- seductive—but where the hell are the mos- t ing muscles and gleaming eyes are obvi- ing," gush the Sirens as they lure the un- hquitoes? There is a darker side to this camp ously out of the question. Which leaves suspecting explorers to their fate. My' toes ething. It is time the truth was told. the train: the long string of steady plod- cramped up at first contact, which should Thus I muse at the conclusion of Camp have been warning enough, but anything v ders that pull out of camp an hour or so 2, beneath the ramparts of Sugarplum after breakfast with their ski poles and the they' can do.... Have you ever tried suck- a Spire, seated in relative comfort in what strangest assortment of hats you ever saw. ing in all the air you expect to need for the r must be the most scenic biffy in the coun- The train is usually the noisiest party', so next ten minutes in one gasping breath as i try. A few feet in front the ground drops don't expect to sneak up on unsuspecting liquid fire creeps up your thighs to engulf oaway to a turquoise tarn surrounded by ildli le. This may be an advantage if you the naughty bits and beyond in searing pain ualpine fir and green, green meadow. Be- happen to be nervous about bears. There followed by even more worrying total syond, the ridge slopes steeply up to the were no bears in our valley this year, they numbness? Enough! I would sooner be agrey-black crags that contrast darkly are nervous about trains. broiled than end up as permafrost. cagainst the distant grey-blue peaks which Some people are like me and can't In the evening we all sit around to talk crange west beyond the Duncan River. And make up their minds until everyone has about our little adventures, a cluster of peo- obeneath lies the digested residue of 400 left, then we spend the day trying to catch ple huddled around a log of "wood" recy- umeals, the mecca of as many flies, many up, or even find somebody. Don't hike cled from the sawdust of ancient trees sat- nof which are peculiarly adapted to prey alone they say'. There must be somebody urated in the even more ancient light crude tupon naked pink skin in artful ways. out here somewhere! This approach does that flickers romantically amid the pungent s"Why," I muse, "are we so concerned lead to self-reliance and a sense of resig- aroma of polyaromatic hydrocarbons. It is about the mixing of human body fluids sobering to muse upon the temporal na- o nation that you are who you are so you when the creature presently probing the might as well learn to accept yourself, for ture of this scene. This little collection of f subcutaneous of my left cheek may have better, for worse, etc, etc. Of course if you humanity, together for such a short while last supped on a rabid bat?" Mashing the are not that easily' satisfied, then trudging and sharing this moment. So totally insig- little devil into a black smear may satisfy around on your own will be less than in- nificant in a world of 6 billion other souls, my aggression, but might this also make spiring. But you do stand a better chance in a valley that has barely' changed in sev- things worse? to see wildlife, and I suppose of being eat- eral thousand years, beneath a sky that has Let us leave this place of contempla- en by a bean spread the same infinity of stars across the tion and the weighty problems that prey There's no point in going on about the black of night for millions of years. Yet upon the mind while so engaged, and con- hiking part. The Karabiner is always full each of us are so different, with our own sider other experiences that might influ- of that stuff, and kc ith three hiking camps personal baggage of triumphs and trage- ence future innocents in their decision all talking about the same place. doing the dies. our own dreams, and our own fears. whether to join such an endeavour. But same things, with the only variable being In the grand scheme of things, this mo- first the flag: never, never, never leave the the weather, it does get a bit repetitious. ment too will be insignificant, hut for now flag when up departing the john, particu- Wonderful place to be though, except for it feels good and that should be enough. larly in the morning rush hour. Picture half the sun blazing through the ozone hole, a dozen campers hopping about as if in frying exposed skin with melanic UV ra- some ritualistic dance before the flag as it diation, and desiccating sweating bodies Craig & Trudy Andrews, Debbie & stands proudly erect beside a vacant john, until the kidneys shrivel from disuse. Wally Babakailf, Jenny Baillie, Brian while the previous user is happily slurp- There are the bugs of course: the heavy Bissell, Suzanne Butler, Joan & David ilia up her (and it usually is a her) break- duty B-52s that excavate a mil limetere fast porridge. You can understand why the square hole to extract their pound of flesh: Cunningham, Rudy Goerzen, Graham best of friends are now barely civil. the black flies who rely on numbers to get Kenyon, Ha:el Kirkwood, lain (co- Breakfast: the time to contemplate the through your defenses: the no-see-urns leader) and Libby Martin, Joyce day ahead and line up a date for the day's who sneak invisibly past the radar: the McEwen, Holly Ridenour (co-cook), exertions. Check them out. There are the wasp looking things that may' or may' not Carlton Scott (co-cook) J01711 (co- meadow wanderers, the folks who think be armed, but make threatening noises: and leader) & Ahiriel Walton

Karabiner '97 13 Camp 3 Reid Henderson

Peak. Jane and Mary B enjoyed the day evening campfire singsongs. Ted sup- ler at the top of her lungs. Every catching up on their reading, chatting, plied us with steamy hot chocolate. B one in the area was very aware and generally looking after camp, which Thursday was a glorious, warm, sun- ofebY "Blondies" presence. includes having tea and cookies ready for ny day. Without any need to summons a a Camp 3, affectionately dubbed the hungry returning wanderers. helicopter, we all got out hiking. And, MASHr UNIT was, as fate would have it, While returning to camp, accident without previous arrangement, 13 peo- !true to its nickname. Number One happened. Mary W fell onto ple ended up on the same ridge south of B After rendezvousing at the Kaslo Mo- the rocks and hurt her wrist. Despite the camp, to take in the view of the Hatteras ehawk station at 7:15 a.m., the seven-ve- immediate snow pack, when viewed at Glacier. ahicle cavalcade met Kal near the Mead- camp, the wrist was ugly—black and That night we were treated to an in- row Creek junction and Jane at the blue, at an angle, and swollen. credible lightning show. Loud thunder re- !Johnson's Landing turnoff. Despite a flat Mary's wrist didn't look any better verberated in the basin below Sugarplum Wtire, we were at the helicopter location Monday. Using Don's global positioning Spire. The storm lasted about an hour and ewith 45 minutes to spare. Everyone instrument and the (new and improved) a half and it swirled around the moun- hpitched in to help secure vehicles, seal emergency radio, the air ambulance crew tain tops from basin to basin. In the morn- eboxes and move supplies in readiness for who was dispatched from Kamloops had ing there was snow on the surrounding the airlift. a Mary on her way to the Revelstoke hos- peaks, but that melted by noon. The transition was smooth and un- Most hikers returned to their most r pital by noon. eventful. I convinced Jenny, who was re- favourite haunts. Eric, Susan, Suzanne T, d Tuesday hikers went in opposite di- turning from Camp 2, to get back on the Elaine, Polly, Don, Gerry, and Reid went S rections to those of Monday. Ray, Ted, helicopter and join us at Camp 3. Now Susan W, Jenny, and Hans crossed the into Squab Peak basin to play in the snow. u we had 19 people to share a workload saddle into Squab Peak valley. They went Ted, Hans, Ray, Kal, Frank, Sonja, and z geared for 20. Little did anyone know that up the toe of Hatteras Glacier seeking a Susan W headed off north of Sugarplum a 19 would soon be reduced to 17! way to the top. Around II a. m., acci- Spire. n Personal tents were scattered about: dent Number Two happened. Jenny was Saturday's weather was super. Camp n some near the cook tent, some near the about 20 minutes from the top of Hat- was dismantled and ready for shipment etarn at the top of the hill facing Sugar- teras. She moved off the snowfield to long before the helicopter arrived from hplum Spire, others looking northwest start scrambling over rock. When she Golden. oacross the Duncan River toward Nauti- grabbed hold of a rock, it dislodged, A flat tire greeted us at the vehicles. llus Mountain and the Nemo Glacier. knocking her onto her stomach. As that But, we were at the Meadow Creek pub - We met at the cook tent just before rock tumbled past her it ripped open her (for the second consecutive year) by 3 p. supper to conduct the "sweepstake" and left calf just back of the knee. Hikers in m. Much to our pleasure, both Mary W, to see which jobs each of us would se- attendance tied clothing around the in a cast, and Jenny, on crutches, were at lect. After a frenzy of trading tasks, wound. They dispatched Ted to go back the pub to greet us and partake in the tra- names were officially recorded on the to camp for medical supplies, and to ad- ditional Camp 3—MASH UNIT—party. roster, and the camp rules were discussed. vise Mary B of their location. Upon re- Oh yeah, about the bear. No, we Emphasis was placed on "do not hike turning to camp at 4 p.m. we developed didn't see any wildlife at Camp 3. Peo- alone," "record your route and estimated a plan, at the same time Jenny appeared ple at Camp I and 2 scared them away. time of return," and - on the ridge using ice axes as crutches. Old "Blondie" attended our pre-camp ifreturn a before nightfall a search party Wednesday morning, Jenny's calf looked meeting near the Nelson campus of Sel- personwould not leave camp before daybreak." like an uncooked chunk of meat. Having kirk College. The bear strolled onto the failedFortunately, everyone heeded the words. experience with GPS co-ordinates and boulevard as though it was an invited toSunday saw people going in all dif- the use of the emergency radio, the heli- guest and left only after Suzanne hol- ferent directions. Eric, Susan T and Sus- copter crew from Nelson was able to fol- lered, - an W headed south-east toward Squab low our directions. Jenny was on her way bear Peak. Reid, Don, Polly, Frank, and Son- to the Nelson hospital by 11 a.m. ,Eric Ackerman, Jenny Baillie, Mary ja went west to the lake below camp and Later that afternoon, upon returning beBaker, Suzanne Blewett (cook), Don then roamed the south ridge. Varying from hiking, Eric, Gerry, Elaine, Kat, ar!Hagen, Reid Henderson (co-leader), Ted groups consisting ofJenny, Suzanne, Ted, Ted, Jane, Susan. and Ray enjoyed swim- "Ibrahim, Hans Korn, Gerry Larouche, Hans, Kal, Gerry, Elaine, Ray, and Mary ming in the small tarn above camp. Al- Elaine Martin, Ray Newmar (co-leader), W scrambled to the saddle and/or the though our numbers were reduced to 17, Polly Samoyloff Kat Singh, Jane Steed, peak northwest of Sugarplum Spire to those who remained continued to enjoy Susan Tosh, Frank& Sonya Trard, Susan peer into Hatteras Glacier and Snowman the camara-derie of camp. Jane led us in Ward, ,1 kir) , 14 Karabiner '97 Wood ward Jill Watson photos

Karabiner '97 15 Ochre Peak by Kim Kratky

llasenkox and party had done it by the boulder pile IS metres below the south the Horseshoe Peaks on the Rippel/ Hryniuk approach. Not true, ridge and just below the summit tower O south side of Glacier Creek lo- either. Armin's group retreated because at I 1:10 a.m. (6 hours 20 minutes up). catedc some six kilometres south, south- of unstable snow on the steep upper We inspect the ochre-toned rock and easth of Lady Macbeth, seems to hold a West Truce Glacier. decide the final bit will be an easy fascinationr for local climbers. For several years I pored over maps scramble on shattered rock with a snow e It was first climbed in 1971 by a and discussed approaches with friends. patch in the middle. We also examine party( of Americans led by Jim Petroske, but never attempted the peak. At one what we can see on Ochre's west face; who1 made many first ascents in the time I thought about approaching Ochre the upper portion is a desert of crum- West0 Kootenays. In those days the Gla- from the bottom of the Horseshoe Gla- bling red pinnacles set amid steep. loose cier, Creek road went up only some ten cier, but examination from viewpoints aggregate—a truly ugly route. Below kilometres1 and was on the north side farther north convinced me this would that the West Truce Glacier is a sea of of5 the creek. The group would have be, well, imprudent. Finally I decided broken ice for more than a kilometre. crossed0 the Glacier Creek on a log (a to "just do it" from the south fork of Dumping the rope, we complete the sobering' thought), bushwhacked up the Glacier Creek using the normal ap- climb in an effortless 20 minutes, reach- drainage3 west of Ochre, ascended the proach to Truce and Cauldron. Maybe ing the top at 1:50. West0 Truce Glacier, crossed a col this wouldn't be as exciting or as aes- There is a cairn but no record, so somewhere9 between Squabble and thetic as the other routes, but it seemed we add our own with a note about Ochre,5 and climbed the peak via its to stand a good chance of success. Petroske's first ascent. We lounge for msouth ridge. At 4:50 a.m. on July 21, 1997. Pe- an hour in fine weather, speculating that ) I first had a look at Ochre in July ter Tchir and I depart from our car camp ours might be only the second ascent. ,1978 when Fred Thiessen and 1 viewed on the Glacier's south fork just below On return, we cross the Horseshoe oit from Tranquility, another Horseshoe where the trail begins. Glacier, enjoy fine views of the Egyp- nPeak, and guessed it might be un- Clad in shorts and plastic boots, we tian Peaks, and meander up to the Toad- eclimbed. Time passed and by the early carried a nine m I imetre rope, and some Quibble col (9,800' 2985m), passing o90s when the Glacier Creek road be- rock gear since Petroske's account over as easy filled-in bergschrund. This fgan to re-open, Ochre again became of spoke of several leads of roped climb- is recommended over the Quibble- interest to me. ing on the south ridge. (Canadian .41- Tranquility col, which later in the year Several parties attempted it from pine Journal vol. 55, pp. 82) Follow- and in low snow years might not give the west, as that side is easily visible ing the usual west moraine route, we access to the Horseshoe Glacier. De- and seemingly accessible from the main reached the edge of the Truce Glacier scending onto the Truce Glacier, we road. Andrew Port and Chad Johnson (9,250' 2820m) after 3 hours and 15 pick up our tracks from the morning, ascended the rubbly-looking west face minutes, and roped up. We see a track enjoy a building thunderstorm on our to about 2740 metres just below the big leading off toward Cauldron which we way down the moraine, and return to step on Ochre's north ridge. There they surmise was Peter Bullock's path made the truck by 5:30. The mystique of were benighted, and because of fresh a week or so before. Off we plod in a Ochre has been dissolved in one phys- snow and low cloud, retreated to the westerly direction toward the Quibble- ically hard but technically easy outing east across from Horseshoe and Truce Tranquility col (10,000' 3050m) which Glaciers to link up with the KMC we reached at 9:15. After a snack, we climbing school for a ride back. Tim descend a steep snow couloir for 100 Rippel and Myke Hryniuk also attempt- metres, gingerly cross a snowed-in Map references: ed the peak. They travelled up the West 'schrund and reach the Horseshoe Gla- Duncan Lake 82K/7 1:50,000. Truce Glacier to ascend the rotten ridge cier itself Ambling along in a north- Ochre Peak south ridge (111, 4, s/g) southeast of Ochre, somewhere near westerly direction, we pass under the Assent 6 hours, descent 5 1/2. Squabble Mountain, where they were impressive rocky block of Squabble turned back by wane of daylight. Then ( I 0,000' 3050m) which we mark down there were rumours of ascents, Some- for attention at a later date. one told me Fred Thiessen and Peter Nearing Ochre, we ascend some Wood had done Ochre on skis. Not so. very steep snow with an even steeper Another informed me that Armin and uglier run-out, we flop down in a Kim Kratky, Peter Tchir

16 Karabinec '97 The Last Egyptian Peak

hours and ten minutes. This was the decision. After an 18-metre rap, we have made a number of trips to weekend before the old shelter was continued down, boulder hopping to S peaks along the ridge separating razed. and we found it to be indeed frag- the 1493 metre col at the base of the thei two terminal forks of Glacier Creek ile and rickety. north ridge. From there we swung fromn Jumbo Creek, which runs from After a 30-minute photography southwest and traversed beneath Ho- Mountc Monica in the north to Bastille break, we followed a trail north over a rus's west face across steep grass and unconsolidated scree until we reached Mountaine in the south. Most first as- couple of hummocks to Mount Anubis cents1 in these Egyptian Peaks were by 10:30. This 2720 metre protuberant a bum we had seen in the morning. This is little more than a bump, but it does turned out to be the best of a bad lot as made9 in 1973 by Curt Wagner and John have quite an extensive summit record we thrashed our way down over dead- Jeglum9 (Canadian Alpine Journal, 1974), but new routes and especially going back to 1975. Beyond Anubis the falls and through slide alder. Still, af- 1 traverses remained to be done. I should trail gradually petered out, and a series ter 30 minutes of the bad stuff, we H point out that none of these peaks are of formidable-looking eruptions along popped out onto the South Fork road particularlya difficult, they are fun and the ridge ahead guarded the approach only 100 metres north of our truck. By inm a very scenic area. to the south side of Horus. Somewhat 5 p.m. we were back at Hamie's Bron- i After traversing Amen-Ra (1992) daunted we pressed onward, keeping to co for a cold drink and a chat with a ands Storus and Isis (1994), we put off the west side and negotiating steep, Dutch couple whose VW Combi theh last and farthest south. Thoth, be- grassy ledges and crumbly, slippery parked nearby was blasting out Classi- causeM it seemed less imposing. Then, rock. The crux, if it can be called that. cal music. On the drive out, we ran into aboutu a year ago. I received a phone was 30 metres of eastward tilting slab Peter Tchir's Blockhead Mountain par- callt from Hamie. He was a little miffed with a heart-stopping run out down to ty and stopped for pictures of our Egyp- afterc reading an article in the 1994 Ca- Jumbo Creek. A quick inspection re- tian Peaks glowing in the fading light. vealed a nice grassy crack that we nadianh Alpine Journal written by Pe- ter Green who, in 1991, made the first sprinted up to reach more moderate ter- Map references: a ascent of Thoth with two friends and rain. Easy ledges then took us to the (265-796; all map references are to renamedn it Horns. base of Horus's south ridge/face, and 821(17 Duncan Lake 1:50,000) d Stung, and yet this is a minor peak we began to see that success was like- Mount Hours (8950' 272.0m) Iof only 2720 metres, we decided to visit ly. From this point to the summit, we S to N traverse (III S ridge is class 4; Horus with the goal of at least being scrambled over four or five rock tow- N ridge is 5) Coordinates 260-807 ers on surprisingly good rock with may- the first to have traversed all the major 10 hours return bumps on the ridge. And so the week be a few class 4 moves. Reaching the before Labour Day 1997, we decided summit block at 12:45 (five hours and against going to Mount Tyrel I and 45 minutes up), we found a cairn with Kim Kratkv. Hamish Mulch turned our sights to the Egyptian Peaks. no record. We added a note recogniz- On Friday evening, August 29, we ing the first ascent party, checked the drove up Glacier Creek. past the ever- altimeter that read 362 metres, and expanding Rainbow's End Ranch. and lounged for 1 hour and 45 minutes in pitched our tent at the junction of the balmy weather. We decided that this North and South Fork roads. The next was absolutely the best viewpoint in morning we drove down to the Jumbo Glacier Creek. The map confirmed that Pass Trail parking area and began hik- we were at the apex of the whole area. ing at 7 a.m. with the intention of tra- Finally at .2 p.m.. we decided to versing Horns from south to north. This head down the north ridge, which was was to be lightweight trip: nine mill- the route of the first ascent party. This metre rope, handful of Friends, leather was composed of big solid blocks that boots, rock shoes, no ice axes. Follow- reminded us of the north ridges of ing the thoroughly grubbed out trail that Amin-Ra, Storus, and Isis. Eventually had been well-worn by save-Jumbo en- we reached a big step we couldn't thusiasts a few weeks before, we climb. We found some old blue rap reached the Jumbo Pass cabin in two sling bearing witness to another party's Joan Grodzki photo

Karabiner '97 17 Mount Athabasca (11,452 3491m) by Kim Kratky

time. After a cold brekky, we drive to 45 metres, sometimes dislodging din- wants to climb; it's big, and you can and up the snow coach ner-plate sized chunks of ice as I whack I see it from the highway. Not just any road before it is gated at 7 a.m. Start- in the axe. From the bergschrund on, t highway, but the Icefields Parkway. ing at just seven, we head up the mo- we continue roped, but without belays. i Still, I have had such bad luck with raine trail on the edge of the Little Atha- Soon the slope eases and the material s weather in the Rockies that I have shied basca Glacier and reach the rope-up site becomes more like very hard snow. o away from trips there. In fact, the sub- in a heart thumping 53 minutes. Paul Really perfect conditions. Making some n title for this article is "Kim Goes to the inquires, - zigzags to avoid 'schrunds, we contin- e Rockies and Doesn't Get Rained or team?"what However, I do remember how ue up the face and top out on the Sil- o Snowed On." Truly, my success rate for isfast he was on Mount Bonney two years verhorn at 3400 metres at I f Rockies' peaks over the last 20 years thibefore. Peter is in fine form. just two weI a.m.change leads and Peter takes us the t has hovered around 50 percent, and I dayss? ago he soloed the east ridge of Hererest of the way to the narrow, long, flat h can assure you that this is not because KEdith Cavell in ten hours. Observing ridge. On the summit by I I :45 (4 hours o of the desperately-hard routes I've been thatM we have gained 2025 metres (from 40 minutes up). we linger for only 5 s attempting. C550 to 2575), we strap on our cram- minutes, as fog or mist seems to be e In August 1995, Paul Allen, Peter trpons and head southeast across bare ice sweeping in from the southwest. m Tchir, and I made the long drive to at- acto reach the cattle track of the approach We retreat to the sub-peak of the Sil- o tempt Athabasca, but as we sat in the kroutes. We have decided on the Silver- verhorn for a 40 minute lunch and con- u Wilcox Creek Campground in the rain horn, of which Dean Daughtery writes: gratulations all around. I feel a tremen- n and watched the snow level descend "Somewhat steeper than the Normal dous sense of relief. To the south, the t alarmingly low, we knew failure was Route and hence a little more challeng- weather is now gloomier, but quite sat- a almost assured. The next day, we i ing. An aesthetic route which is deserv- isfactory above us. The view is majes- walked up the moraine to the base of tic. Below us and to the south is the bare n edly popular. the glacier in threatening weather. There ice of the ; the s -in the , pp. 185) The we met a couple descending who had snow is frozen so hard that we don't north shows us Mount and e (Selec been turned back by incipient hypoth- v tedeven rope until the base of the route. . Right below us is the ermia, low cloud, and mushy snow. Columbia Icefields Chalet, from which e AlpiBefore reaching that spot, we meet two During our conversation, the rain be- r neguys from Boston coming down, whom people have probably studied our as- gan to fall, so we had no trouble mak- y Cliwe had seen earlier higher up on the cent with binoculars (disconcerting, but ing a decision. o mbtourist route. One says they turned back not unlikely); and to the southwest, not Now it's the evening of August 23, n sbecause of sloughing snow, but his part- far away looms . We con- 1997, and I'm sitting in the restaurant e ner says that altitude sickness defeated template making it more of an outing. of the 's (ACC) them. The first one tells us the Silver- We discuss going over to the A/A col lodge with my family and horn would be safer - and tackling Adromeda, but fresh snow the Perchie/LePage family. We have ifWe you'renote their completely new gear and on the rock and the thought of an ex- just returned from five sunny days of concludeup that they are an inexperienced tremely long day discourage us. grace at Lake O'Hara, but the weather party.to About 1 '2:20 we head down the has changed to gray clouds and persis- it."We continue and reach a snow pla- "tourist route" of broken rock, ice, and tent drizzle. As arranged, Paul Allen teau at the base of the Silverhorn snow of the northeast ridge. At places. arrives. He and I drive north on the Ice- (3100m) two hours from the car. Here there is even a trail. From the col fields Parkway in a steady rain to the we snack, rope up, and admire two (3170m). Peter leads us wide left to aforementioned Wilcox Creek where climbers on the north face. Our kit to- avoid a bergschrund below, and then we we met the third member of our party, day is the bare minimum of nine-mil i- diagonal down and east in soft, new Peter Tchir, who has got us a campsite. metre rope, ice axes, and no ice screws. snow under seracs to the junction of the To fortify our spirits, we take refuge in Leading out with Paul keeping me on a "tourist" and harder route. the cooking shelter and drink brandy. short rope. I kind of swim across a berg- Here we meet two young guys, one Once again, chances of success look schrund filled w ith soft snow; the ice from Edmonton and the other from Tor- slim. axe goes right through like butter. Re- onto who seem to have lost their will- Saturday morning we are up at 5:20 lieved to have negotiated that, I see the power. We give them a pep talk, and as to be greeted by clear skies and chilly others across and head onto fairly steep temperatures. Maybe we'll be lucky this bare ice and front-point up for about ...continued on p. 26

18 Karabiner '97 Chilkoot Ad ye ntu re story & photos by Pamela Jenkins

We finally reached Skagway, scene trail joined an old wagon road. Our getting there—and back later. I of a massive stampede 100 years ago first camp spot was Finnegan's Point, p traveled from Vernon with live when evidence of gold strikes near which is still in the rain forest and has othera hikers. Interesting stops en route Dawson City reached America. Steam- lovely views of the Irene Glacier. includedr watching the Indians gaff ships had left San Francisco, Seattle, The next day we lugged our packs salmont jumping the falls at Moricetown and Vancouver for Skagway. Gold seek- across a footbridge to explore Can- ono the Balkley River, visiting the re- ers still had over 800 kilometres to trav- yon City. A sign warns hikers not to constructedf Indian village at 'Ksan, and el north to the Klondike gold fields near leave their packs unattended because tlooking at old totem poles at Kitvvanga Dawson City. The first obstacle was of bears and other predators. We saw and Kitwancool. h the Coast Mountains. Some gold seek- remains of an old rusted stove, pots, e C h i l k o o t a d v e n t u r e i s

Travelling the Stewart Cassiar high- ers used an old Indian trading route over and a boiler engine. Pleasant camp, way north of Hazelton, we were able to the Chilkoot Pass, others used a longer further along the trail, is closed to take time out to see the Bear Glacier lower route over White Pass where a camping, but it did make a pleasant which is near the road to Stewart, hike railway was built to bring in more of spot to have lunch. Another few hours in the Stikine Canyon, and visit Tele- the prosperous gold seekers. The road of hiking the trail took us to Sheep graph Creek. follows their route. camp. Here both the Alaskan and the At Watson Lake we added our hast- From Skagway we took a minibus BC National Park wardens advised us ily painted sign to the Signpost Forest to the trail head at Dyea, which is about of how necessary it would be to get a and enjoyed the renovated historic town 24 kilometres further along the inlet. We very early start. We had breakfast, of Carcross (short for Caribou cross- first had to check with Skagway cus- packed out tents and were on the trail ing). Many tourists dressed in elegant toms before setting out mid-afternoon. by 6 a.m. The terrain changes rapidly clothes were on tour bus day trips from In a few places the Chilkoot Trail is an from the boreal forest and low under- the cruise ships at Skagway. They easy hike. We were surprised to find a brush to moraine flats and steep boul- seemed most out of place in the middle steep uphill climb over the tangled roots der fields. During the gold rush years. of nowhere. of the wet coastal rain forest before the at the Scales before the last ascent.

Karabiner '97 19 gold miners were required to have ap- howls. Fortunately we got our tents set phers were aboard. The train stopped proximately "two tons" of provisions up just before dark and were able to and started then backed up for the pho- before being allowed into Canada. use the cooking shelter to prepare our tographs. Hikers put their packs on a There had been many cases of starva- evening meal. flat deck and had the first carriage next tion reported en route to the gold fields. The trail continued through a vari- to the engine which was reserved for The rocks are littered with historic de- ety of alpine terrain before descending them, otherwise all would have had to bris such as cables, pulleys, wheels, and to the next attractive campsite at Deep walk several miles along the tracks back other assorted items. Lake, which was just about tree line. to Log Cabin where the railway cross- From the Scales, the route ascends We saw two caribou above the lake, and es the highway. There is a branch trail the Three Golden Stairs and if they were while eating lunch we spotted Dail to Log Cabin which leaves the main covered by snow this would have been sheep in the surrounding hills. Most of route soon after Lindermann City. The a tough monotonous slog. The route the glaciers are now hidden from view. train's brakes overheated on the long through the boulders was marked by red Our last night of camping was at descent causing much concern for poles. I stumbled from one pole to the Bare Loon Lake which was appropri- cruise ship passengers and those who next wondering how the others were ately named. On the hike out we passed had helicopter, plane, or bus connec- faring. An American border monument Lindemann City where Parks Canada tions. Our group spent an unscheduled sits near the summit and the skeletal have reconstructed a tent city to show night at a hostel in Skagway. remains of a few boats are not far away. what it would have been like. There The five day return trip included a There is still some more rock scram- were old photos of feverish boat build- night in Whitehorse and a visit to "The bling before reaching the Canadian ing activities during the winter months. Follies" complete with comedy and Warden Station and the shelter just be- Gold seekers left as soon as the ice was can-can girls. We drove the Alaskan yond the summit. We were greeted by off the lake for their 800 kilometre jour- highway with stops to see the northern spectacular views of a clear blue Cra- ney north by waterways to the Klond- lights in Watson Lake. a soak to ease ter Lake nested in a bowl of orange with ike gold fields. achy bones at Liard Hotsprings—some glaciers above. Tea was made for each The trail climbs to another summit of which had been closed off because person as they arrived. The artifacts and above the lake and finally crosses a mini of a recent bear attack. In Stone Moun- remnants from the gold rush days that desert, a final obstacle before reaching tain Park, sheep of the same name stood are scattered throughout the 50 kilome- Bennett, which was another site of boat by the highway waiting to be photo- tre route makes it a very long museum. building activities. The ladies skinny graphed. although, they did not allow Piles of old lumber indicate places dipped in Bennett Lake before joining us to get too close. We crossed the where there had been a cable system to tourist crowds from the cruise ship's ex- Peace River, admired wood carvings at haul supplies. cursion train to look at the old church Chetwynd and spent a last night in It was late afternoon before we de- (which had been used for only one sea- Quesnel scended the "monorocks" to Crater son and has remained empty ever Lake and on to Happy camp, which is since), and other displays at the train Horst Bielfeld (leader), Rita Haaheint, another level below Crater Lake. Hap- station. An old steam engine number Margaret Hubble, Pamela Jenkins, py camp is a bleak spot on a bench "73 Laverne Kinney Sharon Reid, Men above a creek bed where the wind -of the season. Professional photogra- ,Watson h 20 Karabiner '97 a d b e e n a c t i v a t e d f o r t h i s l a s t t r i p September and Coppermine

Mo un ta were between the Coppermine Moun- descent was uneventful and we reached inthe sense of what we call tains to the south and the September camp before dinner. Arn The next morning was clear and s ountains, we were travelling Mountains to the north. We camped on Iin Nunavut and since none of us had the south side of the river opposite cool, we ferried (north) across the riv- thohikeds in the western Arctic, we felt Stony Creek. We still felt that hills er and ascended Stony Creek for about ugobligedt to get some lower body exer- would have been a better description two kilometres, then followed caribou hciseo and get above the river for a view for these mountains. Although they trails to a summit at the south end of nof the landscape. were the highest points in this part of the Coppermine Mountains. We want- r ed to continue north, but it was muskeg o These mountains were not easy to the world, mountains make them sound y and we wanted to keep our feet dry. We tget to. We had already been canoeing more impressive than they really were. on& the Coppermine River for two but they were 450 metres higher than descended the mountain on a series of re weeks, which was preceded by a one- the river at 200 metres which was where lava flows, had a nap, enjoyed the views alp hourh plane flight north of Yellowknife, we camped. up and down the river, collected mush- lyand before that, a two-day drive from The next day, after a leisurely break- rooms, then headed back to the canoes. mNelson.o fast, we set off through the spruce for- Two very pleasant days in the hills ot How was it we came to climb in est and reached the alpine in a few min- (mountains) of the western Arctic and utheseo mountains? Well, in going for a utes (a novel experience). From there an excuse to work our lower body in- nhikeb south of Rocky Defile, a major it was a gentle two and a half an hour stead of our upper body. It was a pleas- trapid on the Coppermine River, we walk in the alpine to the northern sum- ant break from canoeing, and the mush- y aiwere high enough on the plateau to spot mit of the September Mountains. The rooms made for good eating. The only nsomeF higher hills to the north. We spec- weather on top was similar to most native copper we saw was in the muse- um in Yellowknife. sulatedr that they would be worthy of ex- mountains in cloudy conditions—cool, iploration,e and maybe we could find drizzly, and windy—we were grateful some native copper as well. It was a for our rainwear. The clouds were nd cool, rainy day as we canoed north on above us. so we had good views of the George Ape', Dave Kennedy. Peter theT river from Rocky Defile. Right river. A confused caribou was also vis- Macek, Bert Port, Fred Thiessen, whereh the river turned eastward, we iting the Coppermine Mountains. The George White i e s s e n

Karabiner '97 21 Mount Whitney stool & photo by Dave Adams

scenery is spectacular with great views reached our camp three hours after leav- horizon with my level, there ap- into the semi-desert down the Owen's ing the summit. The wind was roaring T peared four peaks: two that were Valley. We set up our bivy camp and pre- through. My headache was quite severe equalo in height with us, and two even pared for a summit bid. now, so I took two more aspirins and lay higher.o That which looked the highest The next morning was very cloudy down while Carol made some soup. We wasu a cleanly cut helmet of granite and it and thunder was forecast for the after- both went to bed early as the wind was wasr on the same ridge as Mount Tyndall. noon. We got away at 8:10 and made blowing really hard across our campsite. sIt lay about ten kilometres south. Front- our way up to the ridge (about 4115m). Sleep was difficult. We figured the wind uing the desert with a bold square bluff, it We felt the full force of the soutwest wind must have been gusting to about 95 kilo- rrises to the crest of the peak where a white as we got to the ridge crest: there we put meters per hour. We spent the night wait- pfold of snow trims it gracefully. on our jackets and wind pants. The ridge ing for dawn and wishing we had carried r "Mount Whitney, as we called it in is quite sharp and has lots of gendarms. a tent. At 5 a.m. we decided to pack up and head down to find a more sheltered ihonour of our chief, is probably the high- The route drops down about 153 metres est land within the United States. Its sum- on the west side—we didn't look forward s place for breakfast. 1 was feeling well again. We used emit looked glorious, but inaccessible." to this on the way back! Clarence King (of the US Geological headlamps until dawn came with its in- , We found a sheltered spot and had Survey) wrote those words in July 1864 some lunch. We each took a couple of credible colours lighting the pinnacles on u after reaching the summit of Mount Tyn- aspirins as a prophylactic against altitude the ridge. The wind was blowing really p dall. Now hundreds of people reach the sickness. The route continues on the west hard—glad we got to the summit yester- o summit of Mount Whitney each year by side of the ridge for about a third of a day. Mirror Lake had whitecaps rolling n routes varying from a rugged trail to hard kilometre then zigzags up to the summit. across the surface. At 'Meadows' we s rock climbing. There are great views through the "win- found a sufficiently sheltered place to get w Early in 1997 I applied for a permit dows" (gaps in the ridge). We arrived at the stove going to make breakfast. After eto climb the mountain and was given four noon and the views were great all around, eating we continued on down, although edays in September. So,on September 5, despite the ominous clouds at times. we made a short detour to check out Lone pCarol Potasnyk and I left Trail to begin We spent about an hour on the sum- Pine Lake. It's a pretty place and would ithe long 1850-kilometre drive to Lone mit, had lunch, and chatted with the peo- make a wonderful campsite. By now we nPine in Owen's Valley, California. The ple. All in all we didn't feel too bad— were out of the wind so we removed a gtrailhead is near the Portal Camp Ground j couple of layers of clothing. The last mile t(about 2438m), so we set up camp there u Shortly after setting off down we had to the truck was warm and sunny. hfor the night and organized our gear for sa shower of hailstones, but it was not to That evening we found a campsite at ethe climb. The next morning we slowly tserious. We were both going well until Dias Lake where we got cleaned up and had a swim. climbed the trail past Lone Pine Lake and awe climbed back to the ridge crest. At Mirror Lake, to the trail camp at 3679 sthat point I developed quite a headache. metres. It took us about five hours. The lWe continued down at a good rate and Dave Adams, Carol Potasrzyk i g h t h e a d a c h e .

22 Karabiner '97 Unofficial KMC 1997 Ski Trip or "Les Clients d'Enfer"

that appears on the e-mail, or gets slipped under one's door. Despite its ominous appearance, it is not to be feared. E The note usually tells you that you have been selected to participate in the annual ski trip, and it gives a date, destination,v and a price. Although most people invited are members of the KMC, the most important attribute one needs to havee to keep in good with "the committee" is paying the stated price on time. r Arranged in the summer of 1996, the 1997 ski trip was to Selkirk Lodge. This lodge is at the Albert Icefields in the Selkirky Mountains, east of Revelstoke. It sits at an elevation of 2200 metres. Because 1 bestowed upon him, the appropriate amounty of praise, a famous guide who worked there in the winter of 1997, agreed to tell you about our week at Selkirk eLodge. a rAlio mes amis. , Those who have met me will know a to tell you about such people. This was bestowed upon him the privilege of car- how wonderful 1 am. 1 am an ACMG r a group that visited our lodge March of rying the rescue rope. hoping that it 1997. I refer to them as les clients would be sufficiently heavy to slow him ocertified guide.' I know more about the mountains and skiing than any KMC d'enfer. down. When he had proven himself u member could ever hope to know. None of the members of this group worthy of carrying my rope. I even per- n Sometimes people just do not appreci- were a particular threat to my great ego. mitted him to break trail for a short date how wonderful 1 really am. 1 want with the possible exception of one. 1 period. However, not wanting to be A u g u s t o r S e p — t e m b e r a m y s t e r 644k A', .\• i o Peter Jordon photo u s e Karabiner '97 23 n t i t y . k n o w n o n l y a s " t h e c o m m i t t e e , " s e n d s a n o t i c e a r o u n d Peter Jordon photo seen as weak by the other members of However, I heard grumbling about the sue with me that I should warn him of the party. I made a point of sprinting hut custodian too. Imagine being of- such obstacles. Is it my problem that past him when the rest of the group fended by a custodian who chased the he does not understand the meaning of came into view. clients around with a broom. brushing my Gaullic shrugs and sneers? This group had the nerve to expect the snow off them. She ran a scrupu- Others in the party carried packs that some input as to the destination for the lously clean kitchen. How could any- were too big. It is the duty of their guide day. What was in their minds to make one be offended by her chasing the cli- to take care of them. It was offensive them think that they could possibly have ents around with a bottle of bleach and to see that these skiers were prepared any idea of where they would enjoy jumping for every kitchen crumb be- to take care of any contingencies them- skiing? I would pay them the courtesy fore it hit the floor? They even referred selves. When one skis with a guide, of shutting off their music before mak- to her as the Kitchen Nazi! What did especially one as wonderful as I. one ing my pronouncement of the departure these people find so offensive by her must submit to my superiority. time and destination so that it would be taking such pleasure in igniting the pro- I hope I never have the displeasure perfectly clear what I planned for them. pane toilet? (The final solution to the of guiding these malcontents again. I In exchange for this courtesy they pro- turd problem?) paid them a great favour by writing vided me with budgie seed bars for my Out on the mountain, this group was them a letter to tell them so. lunches! What nerve! Nothing less than certainly recalcitrant. They certainly the finest Swiss chocolate would be had no idea of how serious the ava- A bien tot. suitable for my exquisite palate. Per- lanche hazard was. I chose the best lines Monsieur Manifique AMCG haps people from the West Kootenays on open slopes, and the impertinent are boors. Albertan' asked why they could not re- I was beginning to think that per- turn to ski in the glades. Such audaci- haps it was me that this group did not ty! After one member, who was skiing 1 Any resemblance to persons living or like. They seemed to enjoy the compa- much too fast, almost flew over a ten dead is purely intentional. ny of my underling, the assistant guide. metre cliff, he had the nerve to take is- 2 Ex-Albertan at present.

24 Karabiner '97 44iLk* k q 97 Hiking Camp Black and White reproduction of Water Colors by Jenny iBaillie

Karabiner '97 25 Mistmaidens by Murial Walton

alpine rock plants. Climbing a high moun- M tain summit, you may reach for a handhold oni a damp shaded rock ledge and feel a tiny low peren- nials with a compact tuft of long-stalked basil-like leaves. tDrops of spray from melting snow often cling to the mbright green kidney-shaped blades with lobed edges. aDelicate white blossoms with vivid yellow throats will icatch your eye and invite a second look. It seems in- dcredible that such perfect five-petal flowers can appear in such dark, wet, wind-swept rock crevices far above etimberline. n Although you may have to search several books to ifind a good description, and some of our wildflower sguides omit them altogether, this little maiden can be ofound in mist niches on mountain ranges throughout nBritish Columbia. e Sitka Mistmaidens have as their Latin name Roman- ozoffia Sitchensis and are sometimes called Cliff Roman- fzoffia. A second species of Romanzollia Mistmaiden White Sitka Mistmaiden o u r m o s with wooly brown tubers and soft pink flowers known as Tracy's t is found in the Kootenay Mountains, A Russian patron of botany, Count Nikolai Romazoff(1745- I 826), is honoured by this genus b of four beautiful species, as well as by an orchid. e Although we see Tracy's Mistmaiden clothed in pink only at a dizzying heights here in the Kootenays. If you're hiking the West u Coast Trail, you may find a shaded cave with sea foam pounding t in. There in the mist, the foliage tufts and bright white faces of iSoft Pink Tracy's Mistmaiden Tracy's Mistmaidens may appear to surprise you. Yes, they do f grow at sea level all along the coast, and yes there are white there, u l t i n yMount Athabasca ...continued from p.18 we descend are pleased to see them ronment. By 2:40 we have reached the book looking for another "highway" head up the Silverhorn route making car park, finishing what has been less peak and decide we'll do Mount Chep- good time. Farther down, we encoun- than an eight-hour day. It has been a hren the next year. ter many solo and duo climbers head- new experience for me: an outing in the ing up. All of who were seemingly in- Rockies in very good weather with the tent on the north ridge. It feels odd to route in perfect conditions. In a fit of be in such a populated mountain envi- optimism, we thumb through the guide- Paul Allen, Kim Kra* PelerTchir

26 Karabiner '97 A Snowmeit Paradox „Noman„ye

thaw and the rapid disap- W pearance of the winter's snowe with warm, sunny weather. How- ever,u the greatest melting on high snow- sfields and glaciers in summer occurs in cloudyu weather. Why is this? alIt is mainly a matter of radiation. As Fred Thiessen mentioned in his ar- ly ticle on "Fimspiegel" (KW' Newslet- a ter. February 1988), all objects emit s electromagnetic radiation. However, s both the quality and the quantity of ra- diationo depend on the temperature of thec object and the nature of its surface. i We can show this by switching on aan electric hotplate in a dark room. tSoon after, we can feel the warmth be- eing radiated even though we can't see Jilt Watson photo tanything. As the plate becomes hotter, is also a good absorber at that wave- hwe feel more heat and we also begin to length. If a surface is a perfect emitter nificant amounts of greenhouse gases— esee it glow—first a dull red, then a at the wavelengths of visible light, it water vapour or carbon dioxide—this sbrighter red, then orange. The same will also be a perfect absorber and will infrared radiation escapes into outer appear black. Consequently an object space. Hence,the snow is not warmed pprocess happens in an incandescent light bulb where the filament becomes that is a perfect emitter and absorber of or melted greatly by radiation, except r so hot that it glows yellow or white. radiation of a given wavelength is said to a small extent by solar infrared. i From this we see (or feel) that a hot to be a "black body" for that wavelength At night, even the incoming solar nobject emits more radiation than a cool regardless of whether it falls within the infrared is absent, the snow can radiate gone. When the hotplate was first visible spectrum. into space just as it does in the day. So switched on, it emitted invisible long- Having had our physics lesson, let unless the adjacent air is noticeably wave radiation (infrared), but as it heat- us now consider snow. warm, an icy crust forms on the snow ed up, the radiation began to include Consider clear, cloudless weather at sunset. visible light of a shorter wavelength. As over a glacier in the summer during the Now we consider cloudy weather. its temperature increased, the predom- day. The sun is hot, surface tempera- During the day, a layer of c loud reflects inate wavelength gets even shorter, re- tures are around 6000°C, and so much much of the incoming sunlight, al- sulting in the perceived colour change of its emitted radiation is visible light. though some still gets through. The from red to orange to yellow. Howev- very little of %vhich is absorbed as it snow still emits long-wave radiation, er, infrared continues to be emitted. passes through the atmosphere. Snow but now the cloud intercepts and ab- If you stand in front of an open re- is white, which means that the incom- sorbs it. Also, the cloud itself emits frigerator, it feels as if "cold" is being ing light is reflected, not absorbed. long-wave radiation, which the snow emitted rather than "heat." Neverthe- Therefore clean snow is not heated sig- absorbs more efficiently than the sun's less the refrigerator is emitting heat. nificantly by the sun. And even though visible radiation. If the cloud is warm- You feel cold because you emit more the snow is cold, it still emits radiation er than the snow surface, which could heat than the fridge. You emit more in the infrared region. However, it has well be so in summer if the cloud is low, than you receive. an interesting property. While it is a then the snow could receive more radi- The amount of heat radiated from very bad absorber and emitter for visi- ation from the cloud than it emits, and an object depends on the characteris- ble light, it is practically a "black body" so melting proceeds. Moreover, this tics of its surface. There is an upper lim- for infrared radiation of wavelengths process continues at night apart from it to the energy that can be radiated at a greater that one micron. It emits its the solar radiation. Hence one can get given temperature. Also a surface that small amount of infrared very efficient- a continuous thaw, without the night- is a good emitter at a given wavelength ly, and in the absence of cloud or sig.- time freeze. Karabiner '97 27 u,c), •