Mumbai-Goa4.Indd 60 9 - M MUMBAI U Mumbai Mumbai 60 Comprise India
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60 Mumbai (Bombay) MUMBAI Mumbai Goa Three centuries of development have transformed seven scrubby islands into a mighty metropolis of towering apartment blocks, colonial mansions, seafront promenades and air-conditioned shopping malls. If Delhi is the seat of history and Kolkata the seat of culture, Mumbai (Bombay) is the address of film and fashion – many leading designers are based here, where the Bollywood movie machine churns out more movies per year than Hollywood. Mumbai is where Indian fantasies of wealth and glamour engage in a bizarre dance with poverty and slums, and where economic boom flirts with social collapse. More than 60% of Mumbaikers live in shantytowns, yet the city boasts some of the most expensive real estate in the country. Plans are afoot to build a futuristic new town of towering skyscrapers in the north of the city, transforming Mumbai into the Shanghai of India. From a visitor’s perspective, Mumbai is easy to enjoy, and the longer you stay, the more you will. Mumbai is the usual Indian gateway city for Goa, which is 600km south. Spend some time immersing yourself in the mayhem of Mumbai before seeking out the slower south, and your experiences will give you an appreciation of the juxtaposed worlds that comprise India. HIGHLIGHTS Marvel at the triple-headed Shiva sculpture on Elephanta Island ( p67 ) Put on some comfortable shoes and explore the madness and mayhem of Mumbai’s markets– head to Crawford Market ( p78 ) for Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat Elephanta great food Island Chowpatty Immerse yourself in the festive air at Beach Chowpatty Beach ( p67 ) Crawford Market Gawk in awe at the sight and sounds of early morning laundry at the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat ( p69 ) Gateway of India Spend a long afternoon slowly soaking up the atmosphere at the Gateway of India ( p67 ) POPULATION: 16.4 MILLION PHONE CODE: %022 009-mumbai-goa4.indd9-mumbai-goa4.indd 6600 99/12/2008/12/2008 99:23:10:23:10 AAMM www.lonelyplanet.com MUMBAI •• History 61 The city’s multicultural milieu was shat- MUMBAI WARNING: MUMBAI TERRORIST tered by the pro-Maratha regionalist move- ATTACKS ment (spearheaded by the Hindu Shiv Sena Terrorists struck at a number of locations in party), which discriminated against Muslims Mumbai in a series of coordinated attacks and non-Maharashtrans. After the Shiv Sena in November 2008. Targets included several won power in 1985, communalist tensions places frequented by Western visitors. In the increased. Nearly 800 people died in riots aftermath of the attacks security forces re- following the destruction of Babri Masjib in main on high alert and we recommend Ayodhya in December 1992, and a bombing travellers check the usual travel advisories on 12 March 1993 killed 300 people. before travelling to Mumbai. In 1996 the city officially changed its name to Mumbai, the original Marathi name derived from the goddess Mumba. HISTORY The seven islands of Mumbai were home ORIENTATION to Koli fisherfolk from the 2nd century BC. Mumbai is an island connected by bridges The islands were ruled by Hindu dynas- to the mainland. The principal part of ties from the 6th century AD, invaded by Mumbai is concentrated at the southern Muslims in the 14th century and ceded to end known as south Mumbai. The south- Portugal in 1534. The British government ernmost peninsula is Colaba, the travellers’ took possession of the islands in 1665, but nerve centre. Directly north of Colaba is leased them to the East India Company. the commercial area known as the Fort. It’s Bombay then developed as a major trad- bordered on the west by a series of grassed ing port, and within 20 years the presidency areas known as maidans. The island’s east- of the East India Company was transferred ern seaboard is dominated by the off-limits to Bombay from Surat. Although Bombay naval docks. Further north, across Mahim grew during the 18th century, it stayed iso- Creek are the suburbs of Greater Mumbai lated from its hinterland until the British and the international and domestic air- defeated the Marathas and annexed sub- ports. Many of Mumbai’s best restaurants stantial portions of western India in 1818. and night spots can be found here, par- Mumbai hosted the first Indian National ticularly in the upmarket suburbs of Bandra Congress in 1885, launched the Quit India and Juhu. campaign in 1942 and was home to Mahatma Ghandi for many years. Post-Independence, Maps the city became the capital of the Bombay Eicher City Map Mumbai (Rs 250) is well presidency. In 1960 Bombay became the worth picking up if you’re going to be spend- capital of Marathi-speaking Maharashtra. ing any significant length of time in town. MUMBAI IN… Three days Kick off at the Gateway of India ( p67 ), strolling south past the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower ( p67 ) towards colourful Colaba Street Market ( p78 ). Grab a cab back to Kala Ghoda and explore the museums and art galleries before tucking into lunch: try the excellent seafood at Mahesh Lunch Home ( p73 ). Head next for the old Victoria Terminus (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus; p67 ) and stroll back down Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd towards the Oval Maidan where the grand edifices of the High Court and Bombay University overlook impromptu cricket matches. Promenade in the early even- ing down Marine Dr towards Chowpatty Beach ( p67 ), then return to Colaba for a chat over drinks at Leopold’s Cafe ( p72 ). On the following day be sure to visit Mani Bhavan ( p68 ): Ghandi’s old home has been con- verted into an insightful and atmospheric museum. Save the best till last: on your third day make the journey out to Elephanta Island ( p67 ). 009-mumbai-goa4.indd9-mumbai-goa4.indd 6611 99/12/2008/12/2008 99:23:12:23:12 AAMM 009-mumbai-goa4.indd 62 9 - m MUMBAI u 62 m b 0 1 km MUMBAI MUMBAI a 0 0.5 miles i MUMBAI (BOMBAY) - g o Mahalaxmi Mahalaxmi a A B C 10 D Racecourse Train Station E F 4 To Eastern ar Rd To Nehru k . 26 Express i n d 12 ed Centre (200m); R To Bowling Company (1km); To Western Hwy (7km) d i Jewel of a Express Hwy (7km); Ce d R Lush Lounge & Grille (1km); mb A India (200m) Airports (12km); Reay R at Phoenix Mills Shopping n Juhu (12km) Pa tral 6 ajp Centre (1km); Provogue tanwala Marg 1 eb 1 2 L Lounge (1km) Ba la rg R pu d a La ye Ma asah Mumbai Zoo had ilw Vatsalabai vro K ra sha ab S 13 Ke o h Jagannat Desai Chowk Ja B ay an r Victoria Gardens P Arthur Rd Willingdon Sports Ha a gta D ka n (Veermata Jijabai M d Reay Rd Sita rsh Club Golf Course p (Car it Bhonsle Udyan) rb L D M Train Station h MM ra e o m th ur L m M a Patkar Rd M d) ahanu M rg ich a Rd R d Victoria arg a u in Marg ael Rd) lv KM Munshi en lan iya ir R e th 23 36 d kar Byculla a a ar ( Mumbai (Bombay) Ma Train Ta A Marg Na Byculla uln rd (W o Station b rg tty Seaface 19 eo za Ba pa ) dra 18 d Rd a Chow Rd n Marg d Chowpatty r A i d R 2 D 2 Beach 16 Mumbai Central n 21 esa Breach 42 J J 8 D Train Station rla Rd o Candy ijibhoy 9 i d d Cumballa S Balwant 0 200 m a re M h 40 Hill la Singh 0 0.1 miles b C Ce Falkla J Boman Behram n Rd ula tral R Rd h Peddar R Ma Tata B nd rg Garden 32 Altamount R R ail d way Ma 5 d in L 34 Foras R d in A r a b i a n Kamathipura e A R S 2 K Grant Rd d S e a Kemp's it ran a ti M Train Station za r t Corner a August a d 50 A m rg d Opera House S a d Kranti t u i R r R Pa Maidan b ba Grant Rd lan a 17 S n tk a ka Jagannat u h d 3 Priyardashini L o 3 m d) Sandhurst a m a ir JJ R ar b 14 a D u R S Park rnu utt Train Station M 31 n R m R dka Jail R R M d d ha Chor gto h ita B g Bazaar nd Shank ar a min r D M P a Sardar V Patel Rd h D t (L a Hanging a Gardens ln rsh Kotachiwadi V P bu eth atel M Ba a Mar 15 rg Rd i g d n ) www.lonelyplanet.com Chowpatty d Ja d Kamala Merchant R R e Nehru Beach ello R g Abdul Rehman M lal d a Park 'M R oham d d Rid Meheralli R a ( See Enlargement Charni Rd Sheikh M n e arg ChowTrain Station arg a S P D d r M N a 6 m n 28 er R hw patty e a m ed A 99/12/2008 9:23:12 AM s Malabar h d e r JaikarJa M Masjid lke D on / a ga 1 4 Back 4 ep Hill ar K W 11 nn Train h S 2 N d li Rd a Bay e a S St Station a th devi R 30 / g 2 fa Shankarsheth t c Girgaum 0 e 37 35 Kalba 0 Walkeshwar Bal Gan 8 20 arg M MRA Gymkhanas 27 9 Marg Kalbadevi : k Rd 2 Tila 3 29 41 4 : 1 2 A M 009-mumbai-goa4.indd 63 9 - m u www.lonelyplanet.com m Marine Lines b a Banganga Train Station 33 i Lokmanya39 - Tank g o arg a M See Fort Area & Churchgate Map (p64-5) 4 d .