Key to cover picture

I. Whole dry coconut 2. Ayibli (p. 67) 3. Cowpea salad (p. 89) 4. Rice and cowpeas (p. 39) 5. Moin-moin (p. 62) 6. Cowpea cutlets (p. 88) 7. (p. 57) 8. Cowpea garifoto (p. 76) 9. Whole cowpeas JO. Ayikple with shrimp (p. 78) 11. Roasted for Ayikple with shrimp 12. Cow pea stew with fried plantain (p. 46) 13. Cowpea stew with egg (p. 77) 14. Assorted vegetables and ingredients 15. Cowpeas and saffron rice (p. 90)

ISBN: 0-88936-071-5 UDC:641.5 (083.1) © 1976 International Development Research Centre Postal Address: Box 8500, Ottawa, Canada KIG 3H9 Head Office: 60 Queen Street, Ottawa Microfiche Edition $1 Cowpeas

Home preparation and use in West Africa ~ 1 . ' 'f • t I r•+"-t r t r 4 \ \

Coi.·pea •·aritties differ 11•idrly in colour and liU. IDRC·OSSe

Cowpeas Home Preparation and Use in West Africa

Florence E. Dovlo Caroline E. Williams Laraba Zoaka About the Authors

f'lorenct• E. Oovlu

M'' Dm I•' " 1n chargl' ol 1he c• lll,Umcr unit of lhe fouJ Kci.can:h I nl>liltlle. l'.O. Hm. 1\1.:?U. Accra. <1h;ma. .111 tc(;cnll v i.crvcJ ;1\ ;in F AO c1111i.11ha111 nu foo 111 i\frica. She i~ well kno\\ 11 in Ghan;1 m. ;in ;u;11vc mcmhcr uf !he <.1luma liunl\.• Science A'>!>l1da11on. ;1n11ti1r. \\ h1d1 '" the journal l)f the ")'ocmtlon.

Caroline~ Ii:. \Villhuns

M1' William~ Ji. a Scn1m Lecturer. Department of :\i,:ncul· tu ral b:onomici. ;rnJ Es.tell\\llln. U nivct'>llY ol I h:ill;m. lh>1Jan, . She ohramcd her MSc from Cornell Un1v\!ni1y and rcccntl~ 'pent her \i1hb:itic.1I ~e:1r \\ ith her hu,h.md .111J children at !hi." l 'ni\ cr!.11)' 111 Wi!.Clllli.111. Mr, Wilham.. '' \\ell km1~ n for her punltc;ilmn' in thi~ fickl.

Laraha Zoaka

f\h l'.0:.11'.a j, the Home Ecllllllllli'I in charge of the le~! Kitchcn. Pill11 Mill, M inislr)' ol' N:1tural Rc,l1urccs. l\.l;1iJuguri. ~<"llh Ea~1ern S1.11c. N1l:!cri:i. ~hich j., a Jull-\calc c·\pcnmc·111 fur tC\ling co111mcn:1al nullmg ot' IO..:•lllv !_!rown gr:1111, , ~h /,,>aka rn:iintain, ltllality C<111trl1I tc!.t!. uf the llouri. m h'i.::111 v prcferreJ :.t;1plc pl'llJm:h. Ncw recipe' \he develop~ .1ppcar 111 her ctilumn in lhc wcckl~· ncw,1x111er ul MaiJu~uri - - ,-f / Bhltir. Authors' Preface

The Art of African Cookery has been an oral tradition for generations. This publication draws upon these traditions and skills of cooking and processing cowpeas (Vigna unguiculata) in Africa. The recipes, which are included, have been collected throughout West Africa and tested at the Research Institute in Accra and the University of Ibadan, Ibadan. New recipes are also included to show modernizing influences. To the Home Science and Agriculture teachers and extension workers we trust our work will give you new interest in finding out how cowpeas are used in your region and in promoting and developing the use of cowpeas in West Africa. Special thanks are due to the technical assistants at the Food Resesarch Institute, , who worked with Mrs Dovlo in the testing of the recipes: Mrs Matilda Randolph, Mrs. Florence Dake, Miss Josephine Abban-Mensah, Mrs Ellen Owusu, and Miss Irene Asantewah; and to Mrs Omotayo Ayayi, who tested the recipes with Mrs Williams in Ibadan. We thank the International Development Research Centre for publishing our work and Jean Steckle, Associate Director and Liaison Officer, Agriculture, Food and Nutrition Sciences Divisfon, IDRC, for her encouragement and assistance during its preparation.

5 Foreword

If the population of Africa continues to increase at its present annual rate of 2.6% and the low income groups are to be provided with sufficient food to meet their protein requirements, efforts have to be made in several directions to improve the quality and quantity of food supplies. Grain legumes have a vital role to play in meeting these goals. Cowpeas, which are indigenous to Africa, particularly deserve attention. Encouraging results have already been achieved from research efforts to develop high-yielding varieties that respond to inputs such as pesticides and fertilizers and also to farming system conditions. This should help to make the cultivation of cowpeas more attractive to the agriculturalist. However, storage also deserves attention because cowpeas are very susceptible to diseases and pests, resulting in heavy losses and a marked deterioration of their nutritive value. By preventing such losses, especially in the rural areas, the supplemental value of cowpeas in the diet can be maintained. There are many traditional food preparations of cowpeas in Africa. These recipes have been collected and tested, and this publication will help to promote and develop wider use of this excellent source of vegetable protein. In addition to the recipes, this book also contains details on processing methods and equipment used in different regions of Africa. Efforts to develop good-quality products based on this widely accepted and versatile legume deserve special attention because they will help promote better diets and encourage the preparation of new processed . The authors are to be complimented on their efforts to develop new ways of handling this traditional crop. Cowpeas are widely preferred in Africa and meet the nutritional needs of the people, but they are too expensive for daily use because of hand processing and high storage costs. I hope that this work will stimulate further research to meet the changing pattern of consumer demand in urban areas. There is an urgent need to provide high-quality processed and semiprocessed food, especially for low income people, to maintain and improve their health and the quality of their life.

T. S. B. Aribasala Director Agricultural Services Division Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations Rome, Italy

6 Contents

About the authors 4 Authors' preface 5 Foreword 6 Background 9 Origin of cowpeas and use in West Africa 11 Economic and nutritional value of cowpeas 12 Cowpea foods for children 16 Cowpea cookery 17 Purchasing of cowpeas and household storage 19 Processes and equipment used for the preparation of cowpea dishes 20 Hints on frying cowpea dishes 25 Hints on steaming cowpea dishes 27 Hints on cooking unprocessed cowpeas 28 Use of cowpea flour in processed dishes 29 Commercial food sellers of cowpea products 30 Measurements 32 Recipes 35 References 92 Appendix I - Traditional cowpea cookery 93 Appendix II - Local and botanical names of ingredients used in recipes 94 Appendix III - Description of dishes mentioned as accompaniments to main cowpea dishes 94 Recipe index 95

7 ~ . . .. ~ .... .: ..... ;. -""'1 ».:.-"\ ...... ·. ... "· -.. \~~...... , ... :,.

f're.flily lwrl't'.fft•d c·owpt•tis. Co11·pt't1.1 m"ll"t' t•arlu·r 1/u111 otlit·r <:rop.~ 1111d <'r//f bt• usNI im· mt'dia1ely i11 pltice of tlit' s111pl1! jood d11r1111; tltt• "htmgry :w,WJ11."

8 Background

During the Zaria conference on Consumer (2) The vanet1es of cowpeas best suited Food Utilization in the Semi-Arid Tropics to West African recipes should be selected of Africa (IDRC 1973) it was recom­ for their processing qualities. Most recipes mended that IDRC support the development require some form of processing, including: of consumer preference studies and the soaking and long cooking; removal of the gathering of information concerning the seed coat; and subsequent grinding into paste preparation of cowpea products, including or flour. The difficulties encountered in pro­ household recipes, processing methods, and cessing using present methods and equipment. equipment used in different regions of Africa. particularly the high labour input, may be This information on cooking and utilization restrictive to future use. systems is considered important because it is interrelated with production, marketing, (3) The availability of cowpeas through­ and processing systems in addition to af­ out the year is restricted by storage problems. fecting the adoption of new technology in Severe weevil infestation and storage condi­ each of these aspects of crop development. tions affect the quality of cowpeas. In This is particularly important because the addition, the seasonal market between the cowpea crop (Vigna unguiculata) is primarily major producing semi-arid farming zones for local consumption and not for export.1 and consuming areas affects availability. The study of cowpeas was given careful The nature and extent of these problems thought, initially, by a small group that met require careful examination. Studies on in Maiduguri, Nigeria, in November 1973 consumer preference and utilization, farm to weigh the costs against the potential storage, and marketing were carried out, value of the information and its usefulness to and were reviewed at the second meeting the consumer. The potential development of held in Dakar, Senegal, June 1974. The cowpeas is considered extremely important: results are being published (Dovlo 1975; it already enjoys widespread use and accept­ Kuranchie 1975; Smirl and Zoaka 1974; ability in West Africa, has a high nutritional Williams 1974; and Williams and Yaciuk value, and is low cost. The possibility of 1975). The joint efforts compiled in this expanding present small-scale food-processing publication include recipes and· methods used industries using cowpeas also shows promise. for processing cowpeas from West Africa. This book relates knowledge concerning cur­ At this meeting, attention was given to rent practices and use by different ethnic specific problems that could be tackled by groups in different ecological zones and the institutions represented. describes criteria for preferred food products. ( 1) The universal acceptability of cow­ It is published to provide teachers and ex­ peas, their versatility of use, and the specific tension worke·rs with information on the attributes of cowpeas that make them so food use of cowpeas in West Africa, support­ versatile in , stews, and processed ed by scientific explanations, to test a new products, such as couscous, kosai, and alele, method of transmitting local cooking knowl­ all should be studied and further exploited edge between ethnic groups. Hopefully, it for consumer use. will also help direct scientific investigation to problems of cowpea processing and speed 1 Local West African names for cowpeas are up deve•lopments to broaden the use of this given in Table 1. important food crop.

9 TABLE 1. Local names for cowpeas (Vigna unguiculata) in West Africa (Dalziel 1937, pages 266-277).

Country Tribe Local name

Cameroon Bafo ( Balong Kon Bakossi Bakwiri Bo ta Mbonge Kondi Bakundu Balondo Ba tang a Benin Djedji Aiku vovo (small red) Aiku wewe (small white) Aiku wagbe lafo (small red marbled with black) Doi ku (small black) Gambia Mandingo Soso Ghana Twi Adua Ewe Ayi Bemoba Too Mamprussi Tipielega Ga and Krobo Yo Dagomba and FraFra Tuy a Gurunshi Saau French Sudan Bam,bara Soso (Mali, Upper Volta, Songhai Duri Niger) Nigeria Hausa Wake Nupe Ezo Fulani Nyebbe Kanuri Ngalo Gbari Azzo Katab Dijok Tivi Alev, Arebe Shuwa arab Lubia Bagarmi Mongo Yoruba Ewa Ibo Akedi Efik Ako ti Senegal Wololf Niebe Malinke Niebe Sere re 0-Gnaou Sierra Leone Yalunka Seneni Tschaudjo Kedesche and Sona Basari Kadje Kabure Tombing Konkomba lsanje

10 Al1my 1·t1rh•ties of ,·01t·t>1·11J ,,,,. t:r<1h'>1 itt W 1'.\I .4 jiii'il.' 11<·11•. <·1111·1•t·m I /ort·}!m11111l 1 ar<' l11•t11t: i11ft•rt·1111111t'J ll'{t/1 mri:l111m fris:litJ CllUI pt•1111111.1 lief n

Origin of Cowpeas and Use in West Africa

It seems almost certain thal lhc cul11vat1on lin~cJ "1th the Uram Legume lmpruvcmcnt of cowpca~ (Vigna lllll!llic 11lt1WJ originatcJ Progi:11n 1>r 1he I ntcrnational I n,1i1 u1c oi m Africa. probably m Wc~I Africa. In 197.:?. Tropical Agm:ulturc. lhadan. Nigeria 111 r ·\I, 9 ..J',.f , ol the world crop w:a' fHmlm:cd in lhc uvcragc yield in 1973 from 13 entries Arric:i (I· AO ProJrn:t iou Y 1:arh1lok. Vol 16. m the 'cconJ sc:1~on w:1s rcportl.'J lo he ·1 ahk 3:?). The major prodm:ing cou ntrics 1584 kg/ ha. Exceptional yiclJ!> that year ;ire Nigeria, Upper Voli:i, Uganda. Niger, rcad1L·d 2500 :?900 kg/ha (llTA 1973). Scnl.lgal, and Tanzania. Prostrlllc. ~prcading. RapiJ progrci,~ 1' being made in pwd111.:- dimhillg. anJ dwarf v~1rictiL·~ arc c111t1va1cd unJ ;ire used either as u puh.c or ii vcgc1ablc, 11011 rcscan:h rcl:th:tl t•' this crop. parti1.:11l<1rly or for h1dder and srccn m;11tu1c. I low..:vcr. since the c~tablishmcnt of 1he Grain Legume rn;my foL·to rs contnhuk tu kccpln!! We!>! hnp 1<1VClllL' n I P rog r .1 m at II TA 111 I 9 70 and the -,11 cng1hc111 ng of the research 11rogrnm r\fricnn )'ldllS, which avcr;ii;c "l60 ~g / ha. for gr.iin ICJl,lllllCs in a 1111mhL·r u( Wc'>l the luwc~t in 1hc world. Major lo'>!)CS r.~l>ult I rom anthrncnose, Ct•nmporu leaf spot, Afri<.·"n ;1gric111turc research ccntrci.. I he hactcrial blight. viral d1,ca,c:.. and insect prospcch tor llll:rca.,cJ production lool.. (u. v11u rn hk. mHI nematode altack ( 11r 1\ 1'17 l t . U nJcr favourablo.: cumJitions in lhl· 'cmi-;1riJ re­ gions farmcrs obtain yield~ of I 000 kg/ ha. ~ ~ Dr l.uu1.rn. <'N l{J\ Reseoin:h !-..tat ion. Ham· At four research stution' in Wc,1 Africa bey, Senegal. pcr-;on;il communication. 1975.

11 Economic and Nutritional Value of Cowpeas

The economic value of cowpeas has long housewives are turning to the cheapest sources been recognized in Africa, particularly as a of food. Cowpeas are in this category (Wil­ subsidiary crop to be relied on during the liams 1974) and are being widely used in "hungry season" (Aykroyd and Doughty the diet. 1964). This is still true in the rural areas The nutritional value of cowpeas lies in where cowpeas are intercropped with sor­ their high protein content, which is 20-25% ghum, millet, and yams. Cowpeas mature and is double the protein value of most earlier than other crops and can be used (Stanton 1966). Table 2 gives the immediately in place of the staple food. After nutritional value of cowpeas compared with the harvest the surplus can be stored for use some other foods available in Africa. The throughout the year. In the urban areas, practice of eating cowpea dishes m com­ which have been stricken in recent years with bination with foods enhances their food shortages, related to drought, inflation, protein value. The protein value of foods and reduced value of workers' incomes, is related to a provisional pattern of essential

TABLE 2. Nutritional value of cowpeas and some other foods (Platt 1962).

Nico­ Ascor­ Vitamin Ribo­ tinic bic Carbo­ A Thiamine flavin acid acid Protein Fat hydrate (1.U./ (mg/ (mg/ (mg/ (mg/ Cal/100 g (%) (%) (%) 100 g) 100 g) 100 g) 100 g) 100 g)

Cowpeas 340 22.0 1.5 60 20 0.90 0.15 2.0 0 Millet finger, meal 332 5.5 0.8 76 0 0.15 0.07 0.8 0 meal, 96% extr. 362 9.5 4.0 72 oa 0.30 0.13 1.5 0 Rice, slightly milled 354 8.0 1.5 77 0 0.25 0.05 2.0 0 Sorghum flour 353 10.0 2.5 73 0 0.40 0.10 3.0 0 flour 153 0.7 0.2 37 0 0.07 0.03 0.7 30 Yam, fresh 104 2.0 0.2 24 20 0.10 0.03 0.4 10 Bambarra, groundnut, fresh 367 18.0 6.0 60 0 0.30 0.10 2.0 0 Groundnut, dried 579 27.0 45.0 17 0 0.90 0.15 17.0 0 Soybean 382 35.0 18.0 20 0 1.10 0.30 2.0 0 Fish, sea, lean fillet 73 17.0 0.5 0 () 0.05 0.10 2.5 0 Beef, lean 202 19.0 14.0 () 0 0.10 0.20 5.0 0 Eggs, hen 158 13.0 11.5 0.5 1000 0.12 0.35 0.1 ()

n Yellow maize 150 I.U. (Stanton 1964).

12 TABLE 3. Recommended nutrient intake (FAQ 1974).

Body Pro- Vita- Vita- Thi- Ribo- Folic Vita- Ascorbic Irone.h weight Energya Energya teina.b min Ac.d min De.t arninec flavinc Niacinc acide min B12e acide Calciumg Age (kg) (Kcal) (MJ) (g) (µ,g) (µ,g) (mg) (mg) (mg) (µ,g) (µ,g) (mg) (g) (mg) Children 1 7.3 820 3.4 14 300 10.0 0.3 0.5 5.4 60 0.3 20 0.5-0.6 5-10 1-3 13.4 1360 5.7 16 250 10.0 0.5 0.8 9.0 100 0.9 20 0.4-0.5 5-10 4-6 20.2 1830 7.6 20 300 10.0 0.7 1.1 12.1 100 1.5 20 0.4-0.5 5-10 7-9 28.l 2190 9.2 25 400 2.5 0.9 1.3 14.5 100 1.5 20 0.4-0.5 5-10 Male adolescents 10--12 36.9 2600 10.9 30 575 2.5 1.0 1.6 17.2 100 2.0 20 0.6-0.7 5-10 13-15 51.3 2900 12.1 37 725 2.5 1.2 1.7 19. l 200 2.0 30 0.6--0.7 9-18 16-19 62.9 3070 12.8 38 750 2.5 1.2 1.8 20.3 200 2.0 30 0.5-0.6 5- 9 Female adolescents 10--12 38.0 2350 9.8 29 575 2.5 0.9 1.4 15.5 100 2.0 20 0.6--0.7 5-10 13-15 49.9 2490 10.4 31 725 2.5 1.0 1.5 16.4 200 2.0 30 0.6--0.7 12-24 16--19 54.4 2310 9.7 30 750 2.5 0.9 1.4 15.2 200 2.0 30 0.5-0.6 14-28 Adult man (moderately active) 65.0 3000 12.6 37 750 2.5 1.2 1.8 19.8 200 2.0 30 0.4-0.5 5- 9 -w Adult woman (moderately active) 55.0 2200 9.9 29 750 2.5 0.9 1.3 14.5 200 2.0 30 0.4-0.5 14-28 Pregnancy (later half) +350 +1.5 38 750 10.0 +0.1 +0.2 +2.3 400 3.0 30 1.0-1.2 Lactation (first 6 months) +550 +2.3 46 1200 10.0 +0.2 +o.4 +3.7 300 2.5 30 1.0--1.2 a FAO 1972. b As egg or milk protein. °FAO 1965. d As retinol. "FAO 1970. t As cholecalciferol. P: FAO 1961. h On each line the lower value applies when over 25% of the calories in the diet come from animal food. The higher value applies when animal foods represent less than 10% of the calories. i For women whose iron intake has been at th1;, recommended level throughout their life, the daily intake of iron during pregnancy and lactation should be the same as that recommended for nonpregnant, nonlactating women of childbearing age. For women whose iron status is not satisfactory at the beginning of pregnancy, the requirement is increased, and in extreme cases of women with no iron stores, the requirement can probably not be met without supplementation. Note: kg - kilogram; Kcal - kilocalorie; MJ - megajoule; µ,g - microgram; mg - milligram; and g - gram. '/) pirnl .r/orui:e l'l r11c //1rt•.) f 0111ttl ill "'" t/111· t• 1/t• J'll A f 1ic:

TABl ll 4. Daily nutrient requiremen1 for infants and preschool childrc:n I comp i le~! hy Cameron anJ HofvanJcr 1971 ).

------=-~ -= Infants (months) Preschool children (year.s) ------0-3 4-6 7-11 1-::? 2-3 3-4 4-S Approl weiJht (kl) j 1 9 t l.S 13.S IS. .S 17.S

Caloric~ 550 770 'JOO 1150 1300 l.JSO ISSU Reference protein ( g) 11.S 12.6 12.6 I:?.:? 14.3 16.4 17.0

NDp('a !<;;~, 8.3 l! NAIJ 7 NA NA NA Iron (mg) S11 s 7 7 7 7 I! Calcium (mg) 550 550 S50 450 4SO -150 450 VicamiD A Crctinoll

Ribofl:win (mg) 0.30 0.42 0.-llJ 0.63 0.72 0.80 0.85 Niacin cquivalen1 (mgl 3.6 S. I 5,9 1.1> K.6 9.6 10.2 Vitamin C

14 amino acids, which is dependent on the tion should be given to the findings of such amino acid balance of the protein in foods research, particularly recipes for children. eaten together (FAO 1972). Cereal proteins The Protein Advisory Group (Cameron and are relatively deficient in the amino acid Hofvander 1971) published a practical man­ lysine, which is present in a relatively high ual that shows the proportions to use in mix­ amount in legumes. Legumes are a poor ing staple foods with protein-rich foods for source of the sulfur-containing amino acids, cptimum growth. The tables giving these methionine and cystine, which are adequate values are reproduced for ease of reference in cereals. Therefore, cereals and legumes in Tables 3-6. supplement each other to give a better protein value. The practice in West Africa The most comprehensive review of legume of eating cereals and cowpeas together in consumption in Africa was undertaken for dishes like rice and cowpeas, akara and pap, the Bukavic Technical Meeting on Legumes and adalu (cowpeas and maize) is nutrition­ in Agriculture and Human Nutrition (FAO ally sound and should be further encouraged archives of meeting) and was reported by and promoted. Aykroyd and Doughty (1964). The results The nutritional value of the supplementary compiled from 97 surveys in 50 areas from relationship between cereals and grain le­ 13 countries in Africa showed a wide range gumes has great potential and deserves more of legume consumption. The average differ­ attention. Possibilities to undertake these ences were as follows: studies need to be explored by the food 25% 0-10 g per head per day research centres and university research 50% 10-50 g per head per day programs. 23% 50-150 g per head per day In the development of new recipes, atten- 2 % over 150 g per head per day

TABLE 5. Double mixes. Protein value of each mix is NDpCal 7-8%. To IOO grams of staple food, add the weight (grams) of the supplementary food shown in this table (Cameron and Hof- vander 1971).

e o;S .... E ~ :;I o;S -5] ~ 0 e ..... () <;:::: :l 0 ...... o;S e P. o;S c:: .... :l 0 ~ 8 ·a > o;S .i ~ '- § o;S J!l ... ~ ~ 0 8 .... 8~ ·a E i .... i:: o;S "' o;S 0 0 ~ ~ o;S o;S = "'o;S 0 ~ ii ~ ~ ·9 :;s ~ ~ >- f-< ~ E:: u Egg IO 25 25 25 25 30 5 15 IO IO 15 20 55 Dried skim milk 5 5 15 IO IO 15 5 IO 5 IO IO 15 30 Dried whole milk 5 IO 25 15 20 30 5 15 IO 15 20 25 55 Fresh fish 5 IO 20 15 20 25 5 15 IO IO 15 20 45 Chicken or lean meat 5 IO 25 15 20 25 5 15 IO IO 15 20 50 Soybean or equivalent 5 IO 20 15 20 25 5 15 IO 15 15 20 45 Not Average legume IO IO 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 possible

Note: Approximate caloric values per IOO grams: average of cereal 350; potato 75; 115; yam/taro I05; plantain 130; banana 115; and cassava flour 340. Approximate caloric values per IO grams: average legume 35; soybean 40; chicken or lean meat 15-20; dried skim milk 35; dried whole milk 50; egg 15; and fresh fish I0-15.

15 The study carried out by Williams (I 9 74) available in south western Nigeria are attrib­ in Nigeria also shows similar average con­ uted to the greater use of cowpeas by the sumption by households (household size of Yoruba (Annegers 1974). This high level four): of use in Nigeria was confirmed by data provided at the African Nutrition Congress 45% less than 250 g per day in Ibadan, 1975, which gave cowpea con­ 32% 250-500 g per day sumption at Osegere during August I 974 as 2% 500-750 g per day follows: 180, 21 7, and 165 g per capita per 20% no response day for men, lactating women, and pregnant The relatively high levels of dietary lysine women. respectively.

TABLE 6. Double mixes adjusted for bulk. Each mix combined with the recommended amount of oil and sugar provides 360 calories with NDpCal 7-8% (Cameron and Hofvander 1971).

E .... ::l E B ;;., 0 E ::i "'0 ;:;::: ::i ..C: "' u ~OJ) 0 0 -"' I-"' Q:l"' c:"' u"'

6% 6x 6% 6% 6% 30.% 17%' 21% 19% 19% 15% 5% Egg 20 25 30 30 30 25 45 20 30 40 50 55 Dried skim 6.ri 6.x 6x 6x 6x 38~ 17.x 19% 17% 16% 14% 5% milk 10 10 15 15 15 15 20 20 20 25 25 25 Dried whole 4x 4% 4.% 3x 17% 10% 10% 10% 9% 7~ 3% milk 20 ~20 30 25 30 25 30 35 30 35 35 55

7_% 7% 7% 33% 21% 24~ 21% 21% 18% 7% Fish 6x15 6.Yi20 30 30 35 30 40 35 45 45 50 50

6 6% 30.% 18% 21% 18% 18% 15% 6% Chicken 6x15 Yi'o 6x30 6x30 35 30 40 35 45 45 50 50

5x 5x 5.% 5.% 5% 24% 14% 16% 14% 14% 11~ 4x Soybean 15 20 25 25 25 20 30 25 30 30 35 35

5% 10x 6% 7% 32~ 12% 16rs 14r 10~ 8~ Not Legume 40 10 35 30 srs50 35 65 55 55 70 75 possible

The gastric volume of some children is much smaller than others and they must be fed more concentrated forms of calories. This table shows how to make these adjustments and still maintain the protein level required by the child for adequate growth. Using this table a wide variety of local foods can be used to provide a sufficient number of proteins to ensure adequate growth of both infants and young children. Legumes can only be used in double mixes; it is impossible to main- tain the protein level and adjust for bulk. Note: Use the amount of staple and supplement shown (grams) with 10 grams of oil and 10 grams of sugar OR 5 grams of oil and 20 grams of sugar.

Cowpea Foods for Children

The dietary requirements for children Calories %).a For an infant 8% of the prescribed by FAO/WHO are given in Tables calories should come from protein, which is 3 and 4. It can also be seen from Table 4 that protein requirements can also be ex­ 3 NDpCal% =protein intake-;- caloric intake pressed in NDpCal% (Net Dietary Protein/ X 100 X net protein utilization (operative).

16 approximately the value of human breast or awalo-awalo in parts of Senegal. This milk. An adult diet requires only 5% of recipe is simple (page 69): dehulled cow­ the calories to be derived from protein. peas are soaked, cooked until very soft, and Tables 5 and 6 provide the respective quan­ mashed with seasonings suitable to the tities of foodstuffs that must be added to mother. Prepared in this way, the adayi 100 g of cereal or staple to give the value is very digestible and highly nutritious. It has of 8 NDpCal % that is required by an a nutritive value of 8.3 NDpCal%; thus this infant. However, even simple double mixes traditional dish meets the international re­ (Table 5) may be too bulky for a young quirements recommended for infants. baby to eat enough to meet his caloric and protein needs. Adjustments can be made, Many mothers in West Africa are reluctant according to how much the baby can eat, to to feed cowpeas to their children for fear overcome this problem by replacing some of of causing indigestion. This fear is genuine the staple foods with sugar or oil. This if the hulls are not removed; however, when increases the number of calories and reduces the is removed mothers can be assured the bulk. A larger portion of the protein of a tasty, highly digestible food for their food should then be added to balance the children. A number of the recipes included sugar or oil (as indicated in Table 6). in this publication are very suitable for chil­ dren: moin-moin, ole-le, or tabani (steamed The Food Research Institute in Accra in cowpea cakes, 7.6 NDpCal%); soups and testing and developing the cowpea recipes in stews prepared from cowpeas (portion re­ this publication has prepared Table 7, which moved from family cooking pot and mashed expresses the protein content of the cowpea or blended, 7.2-8.2 NDpCal%); cowpea dishes as NDpCal % . Any of the recipes sandwich spread (8.3 NDpCal%); and with a value of 8 NDpCal% or higher is cowpea cocktail tidbits (8.1 NDpCal%). suitable for infants, other factors being equal. Often cowpea dishes are eaten as a complete Some recipes, however tasty, should be meal, and the NDpCal% gives a good avoided when children are young and need indication of its biological value in the total a good wholesome diet. For example, diet. kakro and ofam provide only 3.2 and 4.4 The cowpea food most commonly given NDpCal % , respectively. They are extremely to young children in Africa as a weaning tasty dishes on which children would like food has many names: leki in western to "fill up." Nevertheless, they should eat Nigeria; adayi in southern Ghana; and paaf these foods only as snacks.

Cowpea Cookery

Cowpeas are extremely versatile and can cooking practices using cowpeas were carried be used in plain cooking (soups, stews, boiled, out in the Test Kitchen of the Maiduguri or roasted) or in processed dishes (boiled, Pilot Flour Mill, the Departmerit of Agricul­ steamed, fried, or baked) . One of the most tural Economics and Extension, University of interesting early accounts of local cowpea Ibadan, and the Food Research Institute in cookery in West Africa is found in Dalziel Accra. The results of these tests are reported (1937) and is given in Appendix I for its here in terms of recommended practices historical value to compare with present-day using equipment and facilities commonly dishes, which may be recognized by their available or potentially available in West vernacular names. Africa.

Recommended Practice for Selection of Varieties for Cooking Cooking Cowpeas The varieties that are available depend A number of tests related to common very much on the region. In Maiduguri only

17 three main varieties are commonly available; hibit binding qualities rather than "grainy" whereas, in Accra and Ibadan 22 and 15 characteristics.4 varieties, respectively, are available in the Varieties that are used for processing market. The choice of the variety to be should have different physical and chemical used for the dish is very important. Taste, properties. Binding quality, short soaking swelling capacity, and quick cooking are the time, ease of dehulling, fast grinding ability, most important characteristics for cowpeas foaming capacity, fine texture, finished ap­ that are to be used in plain cooking. Some pearance of the paste, and flavour are con­ of the popular varieties were tested for these sidered the most important qualities. The qualities (Table 8). most popular varieties for these processing These tests indicate that, depending on the qualities amongst the Yoruba are Long Pod, variety chosen, savings of 30 minutes to 1 Late Kabba, and Prima. Each region has hour can be made in cooking time, and that its own favourite varieties. savings are further realized because less Rough-skin ,cowpeas seem to soak more fuel is required for cooking. In addition, the quickly and are easier to grind than smooth­ total volume available for family meals is skin varieties. The varieties most suitable for considerably higher for some varieties. When different types of cooking in Nigeria are cooking cowpeas with rice, colour is also given in Table 9. important and a red or golden brown variety 4 Whole cowpeas, when cooked, should stick that does not "bleed" its colour is preferred. together as a "mushy whole." This is preferred The red or brown varieties are also the most to cooked cowpeas that remain separate and popular for stews because they usually ex- display "grainy" characteristics.

TABLE 7. Nutritive value of 100-gram servings of selected cowpea dishes.

Kcalories Protein/calories NDpCal%• (%)

Bobo 185 17.3 7.2 Roasted com and cowpea porridge 251 10.8 5.3 Rice and cowpeas 254 9.6 5.0 Cowpea and plantain pottage 175 22.9 8.1 Dan wake 140 26.6 8.3 Gbegiri 131 29.9 8.2 Frejon 198 14.5 6.5 Cowpea flour 89 3.6 2.1 Cowpea stew with fried plantain 277 25.6 8.3 Akara (kosai, akla, or accara) 619 8 4.2 Cowpeas with Guinea com 185 17.5 7.3 Cowpea cutlets 420 14.3 6.5 Moin-moin (ole-le, alele, or tabani) 193 19.1 7.6 Cowpea crepes 344 1.5 0.9 Eggs in cowpea blankets 403 20.8 7.9 Cowpea croquettes 367 12.4 5.9 Cowpea apiti 428 8.9 4.6 Cowpea sandwich spread 495 25.5 8.3 Cowpea cocktail tidbits 743 23.4 8.1 Cowpea tea cake 364 8.6 4.4 Cowpea pie 328 15.2 6.7 Ekuru 180 26 8.3 Cowpea ofam 219 5.8 3.2 Cowpea kakro 210 8.6 4.4 218 20.2 7.8 Adayi (leki or paaf) 194 26 8.3

• NDpCal % - Net dietary protein/Calories % . Calculated at the Food Research Institute, Accra, Ghana, 1975.

18 TABLE 8. Comparison of cooking time and swelling capacity of some popular West African va­ rieties of cowpeas (Williams 197 4) .

Average cooking Test Cooked time quantity volume (hours) (cups) (cups)

Sokoto lY2 1 3 Local Brown 2Y2 1 3 Ewa Ibeji 2Y2 1 2Y2 Red Bornu lY2 1 3 White Bornu lY2 1 3 Yar Gwoza 2 1 2Y2

TABLE 9. Results of consumer preference study in southwestern Nigeria of cowpea varieties most suitable for different types of cooking (Williams 1974).

Rating Tvu number Generic name Yoruba name

Plain cooking 1 17 Local Brown Ewapurpa 2 401 Long Pod Sokoto 3 1510 Lake Kabba Kano, Sokoto, or Gudugbu 4 76 Prima Ewa dudu 5 1490 IR 66-54 Sumunu, Ewa Processing 1 401 Long Pod Sokoto 2 1510 Late Kabba Kano, Sokoto, or Gudugbu 3 76 Prima Ewa dudu 4 152 FD 68138 Ewa 5 641 Not available Mola akunjo

Note: Tvu number is an IITA code number: Trial Vigna unguiculata.

Purchasing of Cowpeas and Household Storage

The price of cowpeas varies widely in the jars with sealed lids (sealed with cereal year, generally being the cheapest at harvest. paste, beeswax, or cow dung). Storage in By the end of the dry season and during sacks, baskets, and enamel basins is not as the rainy season the price often doubles. successful. A common household-farm stor­ In spite of this, urban households tend to age practice is to leave the cowpeas in the buy only the amount needed for each pod, or alternatively to mix the seeds cooking throughout the year. This is partly thoroughly with wood ash and then cover due to the severe losses that are encountered them with a layer of wood ash in the when storing cowpeas, which easily become storage bins (granaries). infested with weevils (Callosobruchus mac­ Research carried out in West Africa shows ulatus). Large quantities of cowpeas can that if cowpea seeds are stored in hermetically be successfully stored for household use in sealed containers, weevils are denied oxygen enamel dishes with sealed lids, in airtight and cannot survive or reproduce. Con­ biscuit tins and clay pots, or in earthenware siderable success has been achieved with

19 sealed oil drums and sealed haft-lined plastic Bello University, Samaru, Nigeria, gives sacks. Plastic sacks alone are not sufficient directions for storage. To store 45 kg ( 100 lb) because the plastic can be punctured by of cowpeas, prepare a baft sack 96 x 50 cm the weevils, which allows air to enter. How­ (38 X 20 inches) that fits inside plastic tub­ ever, the fabric lining prevents weevil ing that is 50 cm (20 inches) wide, cut in 150 penetration and damage to the plastic. cm (5 ft) lengths, and heat-sealed at one end. Phostoxin is recommended for controlled The cotton baft liner is inserted in the plastic commercial storage but not for home use. bag before filling with cowpeas. The im­ portant step before tying the cotton sack In northeastern Nigeria, farm storage trials tightly is to ensure that no cowpeas are were set up to compare storage in sealed between the liner and the plastic bag. haft-lined plastic sacks with common methods Evacuate all air pockets and squeeze the of storing seed in jute sacks and in the pods plastic tightly above the tied cotton bag to (Hashidu 1975). The plastic bag lined with press out as much air as possible. Double baft, with or without Phostoxin, was the most tie the excess plastic, then fold it and double successful method tested. This is a simple tie again. Store in a place where rats will method that can be adopted to farm storage not attack the bag. The secret is to keep to realize considerable savings in storage. the plastic sack airtight. Within 2 weeks The "Guide on Cowpea Storage in Plastic all the weevils will be dead and the cowpeas Bags," extension guide No. 49, published will retain their quality. The main disadvan­ by the Extension Research Liaison Service, tage of this storage method is that the cow­ Institute of Agricultural Research, Ahmadu peas are not readily available for daily use.

Processes and Equipment Used for the Preparation of Cowpea Dishes Not all varieties are suitable for making removal of the seed coats with water. If processed cowpea dishes; therefore, a suitable rough grinding is not done, a mortar and variety must be chosen. Certain storage pestle are used to loosen wet seed coats. conditions, not yet clearly understood, that The process is not pounding but rather stir­ cause a hard shell may also reduce the ring the cowpeas around the sides of the cooking quality. mortar. Sometimes the cowpeas are soft enough so that only hard squeezing between the hands is required to loosen the seed Equipment Commonly Used coats. In other instances the dry cowpeas for Cleaning and Processing are broken on a grinding stone and the seed coats are blown off from a metal or rush The equipment used in various processing tray. The wind and sometimes the mouth stages is listed below: are employed in this process. The variety 1. To remove stones, cowpeas are put on of cowpeas used for this method is very a tray made of enamel, wood, tin, rushes, important, because sometimes after blowing or on a flat surface, and the stones are it is still necessary to soak the cowpeas before picked out by hand. the eye of the seed coat can be removed. 2. To wash the cowpeas a deep rounded­ 6. To grind, grinding stones, mortar and out calabash is used. Any stray stones sink pestle, commercial mills, meat mincers, or and can be easily removed. blenders pulpify the cowpeas. 3. To boil the cowpeas, enamel, clay, or 7. To beat the paste, a mortar and pestle, aluminum pots are used. wooden spoons, calabash spoons, round 4. To stir on the fire, locally made or aluminum spoons, stirring sticks, hand mixing manufactured wooden or metal spoons or a (rapid circular motion), and both manual stirring stick are used. and electric whisks can be used. 5. To dehull cowpeas for processing, a 8. To fry, enamel or clay basins are used. grinding stone is used to loosen seed coats. A frying pan may be used if the quantity Plastic, cane, or wire sieves are used in the is small. Locally made or manufactured

20 A o:ri111l111i: .\lm14· i> "" ,/ l>ot/1 (m lt•••lt011i11g llrl' .\fTll 1 ""'·' cmd for p11l11if,·i111! tlll' d,./1111/nl ( 11n·p1·1.11.

tlr.ii11111g 'P•lllll' arc 11\cu tu rcmo.,,.~· the fric

9. ro '>lcam. variou~ wrapfllll)! ka\C!>. ., P1d.. 1.1u1 th.: :.hlf1c,. grit, :inti wcc\'1lcJ. cmp1y m1llo.. um. 1.lr \omc11mc., I a111.:y rnoulJ, ucc:.1>CU. I.Ir llllluC\\cJ CO\\ JlC.t\ If the CO\\· .ire u~C1..I. fnamcl, clay. or :1l11min11m pol!> pt!:.t~ arc hadl} wcc.:v1lcd lhc\' may not he arc arrall!,!Cd with cri~:.cro!>:. \llclo..\ al the Mlllahlc lor plain crn1l111g; howc\ er. thi' ma} houom hl l'rcvcnt wrapping lc.1ve~ and lood nur al'fe<.:t prl)CC-;,cd dl\hc~ hccau~c the fr<.lm hcmg !'ti.laked m llll'alll for water Wl'CVtl\ can he rcmtlvcd dunng :o.1.1:.ikinf,\. 'teaming, or being hurncd d the leave'> drop into the pol while dry. St1111ctm1c'> local l>rhullini: r1.m pea.., \h.:amcr:. Jrc m<1Jc frum iron ~heel'> w11h an overall cmcr. Stc:tmcr.. anJ prc-~'ure c1.10L.crs D<·h11llmg co"' pea~ 1!> a 11.>ng and tcl.11011' manufactun:u fur 1his purp•hc- can al~l be prO.:l'"· Mo\l hou!>Cwi\oc~ (William' I 974 J uscJ. rcq11m: an hour \lr more 10 dchull cowpca~ I 0. To col.lk. Ir tpo11ppor1:. made from '>lune. brick, or clay used. llou,cwivc' gl·ncrally prdcr the wet tire u~cd 11.> hold the pot ahovc lhc fire. 111c1hud o( Jehulling ur a combinati1lll of Mct:.il ha~kch or hurncrlt u~c charcoal for the dry m.:th1lJ "'11h the Wei. lucl. hut :1n incrca~ing number of people arc ll!>ing J..cro~enc. ga~. or dcc1ricity a.\ a U "' mrthcul :.m1rcc 0f c1.'<>king energy. I. After cleaning, lhc cowpca~ arc r111..cJ

21 Cooking utensils: ladle (left); stirri11g spoon (ce11tre); and heavy spoon used for stirring and mashing (right). and soaked in a volume of water equal to to have cowpeas soaked for shorter periods 1 ! times the quantity of the cowpeas. before dehulling; 2. The empty cowpeas, shells, etc. float on ( b) for steamed cow pea dishes, it is top: these are removed and discarded. better to have cowpeas soaked for longer 3. After soaking for at least 10 minutes periods before dehulling because increased the seed coats will be ready for removal. water absorption improves the quality of Some black-eyed cowpeas may be soaked the dish; and for shorter periods. (c) for cowpeas that are to be manually 4. If thoroughly soaked, the seed coats ground on a grinding stone, it is better can be removed by hand. If not, the aid to soak for longer periods to aid in grind­ of a grinding stone or a mortar is needed ing. to roughly bruise the skins with a stirring If 1 level milk cup ( 140 grams) of dried action (not pounding) before washing. black-eyed cowpeas is soaked for 30 min­ 5. The cotyledons are separated from the utes, and then cleaned, 2-1/ 8 milk cups will coats by washing in plenty of water. When be obtained from the soaked peas, excluding washed in sufficient water, the seed coats the wasted seed coats. The wasted seed float whereas the cotyledons sink. coats wiU weigh approximately 30 grams (Williams 1974). 6. The longer the soaking period, the larger the cowpeas become. Combined dry and wet method 7. The amount of water absorbed by the 1. Clean the quantity of cowpeas to be cowpeas affects their suitability for certain used. preparations. For instance, 2. Break into smaller bits by grinding (a) for fried cowpea dishes, it is better roughly with a grinding stone.

22 3. Blow off coats, shell, insects, etc. have a finished weight of 140 grams when 4. Soak the broken cowpeas in water. The dehulled this way, waste notwithstanding. remaining skins will float to the surface Dry method and can be removed. The variety of cowpeas used is essential for this processing because This method is only suitable for making sometimes after the blowing, it is still neces­ cowpea flour. sary to soak the cowpeas before the seed 1. Clean the quantity of cowpeas to be coats are removed. used. 5. Because soaking and removal times are 2. Break roughly into little bits in a mill immediate the cowpeas only absorb a small and blow off all the seed coats. amount of water. This process is less tedious 3. Because the dehulled cowpeas are bone than the wet method of dehulling. One level dry they can be ground into powder without milk tin of dried cowpeas (140 grams) will further processing.

TABLE 10. Results of incorporating air into cowpea paste.

Beating Frying Number of balls Appearance of time time from 1 milk cup finished akara Equipment used (min) (min) of dehulled cowpeas balls

Electric hand beater 3 5-8 13 Uneven Rotary hand whisk 4 6-8 13 Flattish Metal spring handy 15 Very even and egg whisk 4112 6-8 smooth Wooden spoon 5 6-7 12 Very uneven Mortar and pestle 5 6-7 12 Flattish

A traditional support for cooking pol (soup bowl) is three stones (left); however, charcoal burners (right) are now commonly used.

23 /

Common cooking equipment: a calabash (hollowed out, dried gourd) used for washing cow­ peas and for removing stones (approx 15 inches, upper left); a mashing bowl used for vegetables such as spinach and okra (approx 9 inches, upper right); a natfre cooking pot used for making soups (approx 18 inches, lower left); and a yakayake pot used for steaming (approx 18 inches, lower right).

4. If the cowpeas are dirty, wash and destroys the flavour and funi::tional qualities subsequently dry them continuously under of the cowpeas. even heat until bone dry. Then grind into powder. 3. Grind the dried dehulled cowpeas into a powder. Making flour 4. Dehulling is extremely important be­ cause any eye or skin left on the cowpeas 1. Dehull the required quantity of cow­ will reduce the processing quality of the peas by the dry method, wet method, or the flour. combined dry and wet method. 2. If the cowpeas are soaked for dehull­ Making paste ing, they shou1d be bone dry before they are made into powder. The heat used for 1. After dehulling the cowpeas, pulpify the drying should be even and continuous. Any grains in one of the macerators indicated wetness causes souring and mouldiness and under equipment, e.g. pulpifier or pulp

24 machine. If the village mill is used, two passes are recommended. Add some water during the second pass to produce a finer paste. 2. In general, the less water added during crushing, the easier it will be to work with the paste. 3. A cowpea paste with less water gives the best results for fried dishes; whereas, a little more water is better for other types of cowpea dishes, particularly steamed ones. 4. If a household blender is used, to every level milk cup ( 110 grams) of soaked de­ hulled cowpeas add 140 millilitres of water to make a smooth paste. Incorporating air into the paste 1. Air is incorporated into cowpea paste when lightness is required, and especially when the paste is to be fried. 2. A light paste prevents excessive absorp­ tion of cooking oil, and therefore avoids sogginess and heaviness. 3. A finished dish that absorbs only a little cooking oil will be crispier, tastier, and nicer looking. A number of mixers, for example a wooden spoon, a shaped spoon, a native wooden mortar and pestle, a metal springy household egg whisk, or a rotary hand whisk, can be used to incorporate the air into the Mortar and pestle used to loosen wet seed coats. The cowpeas are not pounded, but are paste. Success depends on the handling of stirred around the sides of the mortar. The mor­ the mixers to incorporate sufficient air. An tar and pestle are also used to grind the dehulled experiment carried out in Ibadan (Williams cowpeas and to beat the paste (approximate 197 4) (Table 10) shows the time required height is 4 feet). for beating and the appearance of the finish­ ed akara ball. Test for lightness of paste 1. Drop a small quantity of the beaten The wooden mortar and pestle is the most batter into water. successful mixer for large quantities of paste, 2. If the batter scatters and foams, the when it has been hand ground and little or mixture is sufficiently light for frying. no water has been added to the mixture.

Hints on Frying Cowpea Dishes

1. Beat the mixture as light as possible. weakened and will fall.) 2. If the mixture is ground with any ad­ 4. Tomatoes, either pureed or seeded, are hering seed coats it cannot be light. not added to fried cowpea dishes, because 3. The addition of other ingredients such they tend to weaken the cohesive nature of as chopped onions, salt, pepper, toasted the mixture. corn or melon seeds, or chopped egg is done 5. When a large quantity is to be fried, batch by batch just before frying. (If allowed the mixture is beaten in small quantities just to stand a few seconds the mixture will be before frying, and the additives are included

25 Coll'pea disli beit1[! fried. Note the dl'lli11i11g .1pc1cm in tilt• colander. at the last minu1e. tcmpcrntmc. the mixture will float c1n 1hc oil; 6. Because the cowpca dish cooks very however. if the oil is not hot enough the quickly (5-8 minutes), 1he chopped ingre­ mixture will sink to the bottom of 1he pot. dients ;iddcd to the cowpcas just before fry­ While the mixture is at the bollom of the ing should be fine so thal they will cook very pot it will absorb a lot of oil and become quickly. too hot. This makes the mixture aumblc 7. Two things nrc very important in the and fry into little ugly shapes. The correct ° (') frying of these dishes: (I) the consistency tcmpcrnlure ( 190 can also be measured of the mixture to be fried ; and (2) the heat with a lhcrmomctcr. of the oil in which the mixture is being fried. 8. II is important to brown one side of If the mixture is watery, the contents will the mixture 10 the desired colour before scallcr in 1he oil. Instead of forming halls. lllrning it over to fry 1he other side. flattish cooked cakes with many air holes 9. When cooked, remcwe as quickly as will rcsull. The cooked food becomes too possible to avoid uneven browning and drain crisp and the taste of the cowpcas is Jost. over a sieve to prevent any further absorp· The heat of the oil should be tested with lion of oil. water. When water is sprinkled onto the oil it produces a crackling sound. If the oil is I 0. Strain oil for reuse, and store in a ready for use the sound stops very quickly. tightly covercJ cokmrcJ glass bottle to reduce If the oil has been heated lo. the corn~ct ~11dda1ion and maintain a fresh tasting oil.

26 Hints on Steaming Cowpea Dishes

I. ~fo!>I CllWpca vari.:tic:. lhat arc -:.ui1ablc (11) Wh..:n wrapping kavcs arc used for frying are suituhlt.' for :.teaming. The they must ll•lt come in eon1ac1 wi1h 1he common property h. their glutinous nature; hottom of the pot. Little lllil.:ks or a shelf in olhcr words. 1hcy an; tC. calkLI ckuru. eowpc.1 p l The :.tcamcrs :.hould have right· has no tiir incorpora1cJ into it bcfon: couk­ fitting liJs; sometimes il is necessary 10 ing. ·1 his is because the !>learn "rai~c!>" the put :1 wcighl on the lid. dish while it cooks. (d Steaming should take place for at 3. AcJJitions o( ,1il. melon !>Cc&,, pepper~. onion~. a lilllc pureed tomato. :.all. ;ind pro· lca't 1hrcc·<1Uar1crs o( the recommended cooking time testmg to sec if th..: teim1cc"lh lood can lk: ;1ddcJ. s~eded lomato before dish i!> lighter anJ the cooking 11mc is 1 h1~ i.poils the part of the fom.I I hat i11 incrc;;iscJ. iouchcd and rcndcr1.> it ineJibk 5. If wrapping leave' :ire uscJ lhl!- mixture 7. :\ii !;tcamcJ c,Jwpea Jishcl\ cool they must hi: fairly 1hick. hccumc harder. H properly i.torcd over a 6. Four factors arc c:.:.cnliul when slc;un· l'irc or in a rdrigcralor they keep for ubmu ing cowpea dishes: 3 Jays wi1hou1 spoiling.

llfotlii11e grim/int: 11/ ,/t'fmfled cowpeu.r.

27 Hints on Cooking Unprocessed Cowpeas

1. Cowpcas with hard shiny seed coats 6. The addition of solnhle potash during lake much longer 10 cook lhan cowpcas with Clloking shorlcns the c<1oking time but .ilters soft seed coats. the rnstc of the finished dish. 2. The hard-skin Vcss­ 1hcrcforc always added last. The explanation cd by the soft seed coat varieties. for this is fount! in the scientific literature 3. Hard-skin cowpcas lack the normal (Muller I 967). lnterccllular ccmcnling of pll!:lsant cowpca flavour; lhcrcforc. they re­ cowpcas by pectin or calo.:ium pcctatc is quire an appreciable amount of adJitional related 10 cooking behaviour. Pectins arc ingredients to improve their flavour. hydrateJ and disJJolvcd by boiling: howcvi.:r, the softening is rcti1rded by aciJs and cal­ is advisable lhc 4. It to soak hanl-skin cium salts. whereas alkalis accclcrnle the varieties overnight before cooking. sol'lcning. The pcctatcs arc unchanged hy 5. Cowpcas with softer sccJ cunts have lmiling; however. the salts of the p..:ctates a better flavour if they arc not soaked before (Ca/ Mg I may rcacl with lhe sail uscJ in cooking. cooking (NaCl} lo retard ~oftcning.

Co111pta ptlste bl!i11.i: sletJmc·J. 1'/rt• Jticks tltt' for M1pp11rt to prt'l't'llf flu• ll'rappi11g lelll't's from to11clii11g the bottom of tile pot.

28 New tec/1110/ogy for pr<>dm:in# ptilfl! frnm Jry /four: (/ > 11 lit1i1• w11tu fa uJd.,J It> tl1t Jrv flour to muke t1 iiliff p11ste; (2) 11dditimwl wm('/' ;,, t111d1•tl hJ ahtt1i11 " .mwo1/1 ltliYIUrt•: 0) 1/11• mirturl' ;,, beaten M it1nJfporute air into the p11s11·; (4) fi11is/11•d """''4 mmfr /mm tlu· p11ste.

Use of Cowpea Flour in Processed Dishes

ff cowpca flour could b~ succc-,sfully qu:1lily were 111rnglu1inous or poor binding prepared commercially it .:ould he used in qu;1l11y, hick o( ta!.lc. colour changes, and the prcpt1ration of proces!>ed dbhe~. This .. puilagc of the flour. Test k:i1chcn rc:.ults arc would eliminate lhc Jrudgery of soaking. 001 condusive: however. they do indicate dchulling, and grinding cowpeas. and the 1hcre arc proble1m in handling commercially recipci. could be prepared in a very !.hort prepared cowpca flour in proccsi.cd dishes. lime Generally. hous.;owivcs do nllt use cow­ Some llf rhc observations in Nigeria in· pea flour pr~ferring .:llWpca paste in the dic;11cd rhat w,\tcr absorption hy lhc flour pn:par.11io11 of recipe... in Wc ~ I Africa. The w;ts poor. The fried akara ball:. were heavy, reasons for this were sought in consumer no1 too cri.s p. fur the In Ghana. :.omc 1esl!> were .:omluckd on convenience. which 10 them is more impor­ 1hc n11:1hods of handling the fl our. Using a tant than factors affecting the quality of lhe heavy duty mixer. a stiff was initially product. The major cornpla.ints concerning prepared. Adding water to lhi~ mixture to

29 obtain the optimum consistency increased monly milled in a local hammer mill. Sieving the acceptability of the product. Recent con­ is subsequently done to remove the eyes. sumer studies carried out in the arid zone Agglomerates are prepared by slowly adding of Ghana showed that the practice of wet water to the flour with continuous hand dehulling, drying, and preparation of cow­ stirring in a large calabash. Sometimes the pea flour is common. In these regions house­ flour is preheated by steaming to give better holds have found acceptable methods of agglomeration. When a large number of ag­ using cowpea flour for household consump­ glomerates appear, they are shaken in a sieve tion. The process used by small-scale proces­ to remove any nonadhering flour particles. sors of akla (akara in Nigeria) and tested This process is repeated one or two more in the Food Research Institute for the re­ times. The agglomerates are then placed in constitution of flour to paste is illustrated a metal or basket. This basket is placed on page 29. Starting with a heavy dough, on top of a cooking pot and the entire basket water is added gradually to achieve a light is covered to contain the steam. During this whisked batter. This method produces as process, the agglomerates expand in size due crisp akara as the wet paste, the only differ­ to water absorption. In addition, gelatiniza­ ence being that this type gets drier as it tion of the starch occurs. A good product cools. The efficiency of this method of drying generally has a moisture content of 20-35%, the hulled grains in the humid zones of and is not too soft and not too sticky. This Africa remains to be tested. is served with a sauce or stew. Cooked cowpea dishes do not generally keep well. However, steamed and fried dish­ New Formulations Using Cowpea Flour es can be kept in the refrigerator for 2-3 days and reheated before use. The milling research on millet, sorghum, and cowpeas being done at the Maiduguri Couscous Pilot Flour Mill, Maiduguri, Nigeria, has been supported with basic research on the Agglomeration is widely used for the functional qualities of the flour and its use preparation of couscous, a common food that in composites for noodles and snack foods is traditionally made from wheat, millet, and at the National Research Council of Canada other cereals. When cereal grains are in Prairie Regional Laboratory and the Food short supply cowpea flour can be used as a Sciences Department of the University of substitute. This is a common practice in Saskatchewan. The results of this research Senegal and all of the Sudanic zone, primari­ will soon be available. The basic formulations ly before the harvesting of millet. Cowpea have already been provided to the Maiduguri couscous is prepared in a two-step process. Test Kitchen for local recipe development The dry method of preparing cowpea flour and testing under local ,climatic and house­ is used (roughly grinding the cowpeas in a hold conditions. The research has been de­ mortar with a pestle and removing the hulls veloped with the housewife and the small by winnowing). The dehusked grains are food processor in mind using simple hand­ manually pounded into flour or more com- operated equipment.

Commercial Food Sellers of Cowpea Products

The most common cowpea product sold on providing a tasty, fresh, crisp, deep-fried throughout Africa is akara balls ( accara, product readily available to the consumer at akla, or kosai) although it is not the only specific times of the day in his own neigh­ product sold by local vendors throughout bourhood. For the processor (women have Africa. Two recent studies in northern a franchise on the industry) it provides em­ Nigeria (Simmons 1973; Smirl and Zoaka ployment in the local community (rural, 1974) give some insight into the economics village, or urban) and requires only a small of this industry. Its success has been based capital investment. This service is provided

30 Couscous is prepauJ from cowpea flour by sloM·ly udding 11·att•1 to produce ac· gfm11na1es. H'l1id1 ure .1ftt1h•n ill a .rit·1'" tu rl!ltlOl't' 11011miheri11g ffo11r. Tiit• pro<·t.vs i.v 1"pt·atl'CI om· '" two 1i1111•J, 1111•11 tlit- m:ef111t1t•r.i1t•s u11· Jl<>amed.

JI at a very low cost. The tedious work of de­ seasonal scarcity of cowpeas; and (2) the hulling and preparing the cowpeas for paste changing social system, in which labour has and frying can take up to 5-6 hours and the a higher price tag and modern sectors of the average wage is reported by Simmons (1973) community demand a more modern process­ to be 6 kobo per hour,5 and by Smirl (1974) ing and distribution system. This industry is to be 39 kobo per day. An extra benefit to in danger of becoming extinct within one the processor is the value of being able to generation, unless immediate attention is give some fried akara balls to friends and to given to the valuable services that are cur­ the poor as part of her contribution to the rently rendered to local consumers. The community. For the majority of consumers potential technology for mechanically de­ this is an admirable arrangement to secure a hulling, drying, milling, and sifting cowpeas high quality, freshly prepared, food item at to provide a quality flour has immense poten­ reasonable cost. tial for commercial food sellers. Working with the food sellers and processors to study Two factors are damaging this industry: consumer demands in order to develop a ( 1) the rising cost of the primary ingredients, more modern cooking and distribution system particularly cooking oil, and the increasing holds great promise not only for the survival, but the development of this industry in West 5 100 kobo = 1 naira = $1.60 (Can). Africa.

Measurements

Household measurements in West Africa the local foodstuffs (e.g. 3 tomatoes, 6 are highly dependent on the measurements onions, or 2 bundles of greens). used in the market place. The milk cup, the In this study, all local measurements were cigarette tin, and the local-size mudus are converted to metric values, although the all measurements for selling local ingredients. handy measurements used by the local house­ The task of compiling a recipe book based wives are also included. Both of these meth­ on local measurements could not be done ods are given as a comparable method of without using a common measure to define measurement in the preparation of recipes the quantity of the measure, and the size of printed in this publication. The market prac-

TABLE 11. Approximate weight (grams) of a heaped milk cup of various ingredients.a

Cowpeas 170 Bread crumbs 150 Cowpea flour 130 Rice 178 Bambarra nuts 162 Millet 164 Broad beans 160 Sorghum 166 Groundnuts (peanuts) 134 Gari 120 Melon seeds 105 Tapioca 116 Ground melon seeds 116 Kokonte flour 104 Corn grains 160 Ground pepper 86 Corn flour 136 Granulated sugar 162 Wheat flour 138

n Volume of milk cup for measuring liquids (e.g. water or cooking oil) is approximately 200 millilitres. Note: Although the heaped milk cup has been used as the standard handy measure in this book, it is not the only unit used in West Africa. Mudus and level cups are also commonly employed (for cowpeas, 1 level cup weighs about 140 grams, 1 mudu number 3 weighs about 200 grams, and 1 mudu number 6 weighs about 50 grams).

32 tice in West Africa is to heap the container. metric measurement given in the recipe to This practice is also used in the cookery the local handy measurement (whether it is measurements of this publication. a calabash, mudu, or cigarette tin). The Table 11 gives a random sample of com­ measurement system used locally should be monly used ingredients and their metric studied carefully before converting these weight related to the heaped milk tin. This recipes from the metric measures to local same principle can be used to convert the handy measures.

33 Recipes Bobo (Boiled Cowpeas with Gari) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 510 g 3 milk cups Gari 240 g 2 milk cups Dzomi (superior palm oil) 200 ml 1 milk cup Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Water for boiling 1500 ml 7t milk cups

Preparation Wash the cowpeas. Boil until soft and the water has evaporated (approximately 1 hour to 1 hour and 40 minutes). Add salt to taste. Add dzomi to boiled cowpeas. Serve with gari.

Notes • A sauce can be used instead of oil: fry onions, tomatoes, and ground smoked shrimp in vegetable oil, add to cooked cowpeas, and serve with gari. • Approximate adult serving 400 g.

37 Roasted Corn and Cowpea Porridge Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 230 g It milk cups Roasted cornmeal 340 g 2 milk cups Shrimp (ground, dried) 20 g 1 tablespoon Onion 60 g 1 medium size Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Cooking oil 120 ml t milk cup Water for boiling 2000 ml 10 milk cups

Preparation Boil the cowpeas until very soft and some water remains. Add the oil, ground shrimp, and salt. Mash the cowpeas against the pan. While boiling, add the roasted cornmeal and stir briskly to make a stiff porridge. Mould into serving portions with a plate or calabash. Serve with meat or fish sauce or stew.

Notes

• Cowpeas may be cooked in coconut milk (i.e. dry coconut grated and mixed with water and strained). In this case, an addition of oil is not necessary. • In some parts of West Africa, the difference is in the method of cooking. The corn­ meal is piled in the middle of the cowpea sauce while on the fire and allowed to simmer for some time before stirring. • Approximate adult serving 370 g.

38 Rice and Cowpeas Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 230 g H- milk cups Rice 450 g 2t milk cups Cooking oil 120ml t milk cup Water 1500 ml 7t milk cups Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Wash and partly cook the cowpeas. Add salt and cooking oil. Wash and add the rice. Reduce the heat and cook until the rice is soft. Serve with meat or fried fish stew.

Notes

• Corn , millet, or Guinea corn (sorghum) can be used in place of rice. In this case, they are partly cooked before adding the cowpeas. Coconut oil can be used instead of cooking oil in preparing this dish. • Approximate adult serving 300 g.

39 Cow pea and Plantain Pottage Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 230 g 1t milk cups Firm ripe plantain 200 g 1 medium size Dzomi (superior palm oil) 50 ml t milk cup Smoked fish 60 g 1 small piece Onion (ground) 20 g 1 teaspoon Pepper (ground) 15 g t teaspoon Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Water for cooking 1500 ml 7t milk cups

Preparation Wash and cook the cowpeas until almost done (approximately 1 hour). Cut plantain into cubes, add to cowpeas, and cook for additional 20 minutes. Add remainder of the ingredients and cook until they are mushy. Add salt to taste. Serve alone, or with gari, eko, or agidi.

Notes • Pumpkin or yam can be used in place of plantain. • Approximate adult serving 200 g.

40 Dan wake (Cowpea Dumplings) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 230 g 1 t milk cups Potash 20 g 1 teaspoon Water for mixing 200ml 1 milk cup Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Dissolve potash in water to make a saturated solution. Mix the cowpea flour with the solution. Let stand 15-20 minutes. Add salt to taste (the mixture should be of thick dropping consistency). Place large quantity of water on fire and boil. Drop spoonfuls of the mixture into the rapidly boiling water. Cook 3-5 minutes. Drain and wash twice. Serve as a meal garnished with hot pepper powder and sesame oil.

Notes

• Dried ground baobab leaves may be added to the mixture to provide a bright green colouring. • As a snack, it is sprinkled with powdered red pepper and dipped into fried cooking oil. • To serve as an appetizer soup, small dumplings are served in meat or smoked fish stock. • Approximate adult serving 100 g or 10-12 small balls.

41 Gbegiri (Smoked Fish and Cowpea Soup) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (de hulled) 230 g 1 t milk cups Smoked fish 90 g 1 small piece Tomatoes 115 g 1 medium Cooking oil 50ml 4 tablespoons Pepper 10 ml t teaspoon Onion 20ml 1 small one, or 4 shallots Water 1250 ml 6 milk cups Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Soak cowpeas and remove the husk. Cook until sott (about 1 hour). Mash using a wooden spoon. Add more water to obtain desired thickness. Add additional ingredients. Cook until tasty.

Notes

• In parts of West Africa this soup is served over another soup made with okra and is eaten with gari or yam flour porridge. • It can be made thin and served alone as an appetizer soup course. • In the thinned form it can be served as a sauce with boiled pieces of yam or boiled rice. • Approximate adult serving 240 g.

42 Frejon (Cowpea and Coconut Custard) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Brown cowpeas 230 g 1 t milk cups Dry coconut 140 g 1 small dry coco­ nut Water 1000 ml 5 milk cups Cloves 3 or 4 3 or 4

Preparation Wash cowpeas and boil until mushy. Mash into a smooth paste using a wooden spoon or blender. Break the coconut open, remove the nut, and grate it into the coconut milk. Add water and strain to obtain coconut milk. Add the coconut milk to the mashed cowpeas and strain. Add cloves. Boil in an uncovered saucepan until the mixture thickens (about 1t hours). Add salt to taste.

Notes • This dish can be served as a savoury as well as a dessert. As a savoury, it is served ,as a sauce wi,th fish and gari. • For a dessert, sugar is added and it is chilled to harden. • In parts of West Africa it is a traditional Good Friday meal. • Approximate adult serving 1 70 g.

43 Cowpea Flour Soup Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 115 g 1 milk cup Smoked fish 120 g Small piece Cooking oil 50ml 4 tablespoons Maggi cubes 1 or 2 1 or 2 Tomatoes 115 g 1 large Onions 15 g 1 small one, or 4 shallots Ground pepper 10 g t teaspoon Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Water for cooking 1500 ml 7t milk cups

Preparation Make a sauce using the oil, ground tomatoes, onion, pepper, maggi cubes, and salt. Add water to make stock. Blend the cowpea flour with some water and add to the stock, stirring briskly. Cook until the beany flavour disappears. Prepare the fish and add to the mixture, continue to cook for 10-15 minutes. Season well and serve.

Notes

• Boiled spinach may be chopped and added to the soup. • Daudawa (fermented locust beans) may be used for flavouring instead of maggi cubes. • Palm oil may be used as the cooking oil. • May be served as a soup for an appetizer or with . • May be served thick with , gari, or foofoo. • Approximate adult serving 200 g.

44 Cowpea Soup with Beef and Okra Serves 4-5

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure

Stewing beef (cubed) 200 g 1 milk cup Water 800ml 4 milk cups Cowpeas (washed) 100 g t milk cup Onion (chopped) 150 g 1 small Peppers (ground) 50 g 4 medium Atargo (ground) 20 g 3 medium Tomato (ground) 100 g I medium Maggi cubes 1 or 2 1 or 2 Potash Pinch Pinch Oil 25 ml 2 tablespoons Okra (chopped) 100 g 3 tablespoons Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Preparation Combine meat and water and boil for 20 minutes. Stir in cowpeas and continue boiling for additional 15 minutes. Blend in onions, peppers, atargo, tomato, maggi cubes, potash, and oil and cook until the cowpeas are tender. Stir in okra and cook until tender. Add salt to taste. Serve with tuwo or burabusko.

Notes

• If desired, karkashi, baobab leaves, spinach, or roselle may be used instead of okra. • If processed ( dehulled) cowpeas are used, less cooking time is required. • Approximate adult serving 350-400 g.

45 Cowpea Stew with Fried Plantain Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Smoked fish 215 g 1 piece Shrimp (ground) 15 g 1 teaspoon Onion 60 g 1 medium Tomatoes 215 g 2 large Dzomi (superior palm oil) 200ml 1 milk cup Pepper 7g t teaspoon Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water for cooking 2000ml 10 milk cups

Preparation Wash cowpeas and then cook until they are dry. Prepare the smoked fish and cut into pieces. Make a sauce using the oil, sliced onion, tomatoes, pepper, salt, and the ground shrimp. Add the cooked cowpeas and simmer for 5-10 minutes. Serve with fried plantain.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 170 g.

46 Ewa-lbeji (Beans for Twins} Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 280 g 2 milk cups Onion (ground) 115 g 4 tablespoons Pepper (ground) 115 g 4 tablespoons Crayfish or smoked fish (ground) 115 g 4 tablespoons Edible oil (e.g. palm oil) 115 ml 4 tablespoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water 3000 ml 15 milk cups

Preparation Wash cowpeas and cook until soft (approximately 2-!-3 hours). Add additional ingredients plus salt to taste and cook for additional 15 minutes. Serve as a main dish, or with gari, eko, fried plantain, potato chips, or bread.

Notes

• Suitable for , lunch, or supper. • Originally cooked with oil only for ailing twin children, but now ceremonially prepared for twins. • Approximate adult serving 1 70 g.

47 Cow peas with Pumpkin Serves 2-3

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (washed) 200 g 1 milk cup Water 400 g 2 milk cups Pumpkin (cut 1 inch thick) 300 g 1 milk cup Seasonings (salt and pepper) 15 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Combine cowpeas and water and boil for 25 minutes. Stir in pumpkin. Add seasoning. Cook until tender and water dries up. Serve hot or cold.

Notes

• If desired, groundnut oil may be added. • Approximate adult serving 300 g.

48 Cow peas with Guinea Corn Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Guinea corn (washed) 300 g 2 milk cups Water 1000 ml 5 milk cups Cowpeas 100 g ! milk cup Groundnut paste 100 g 2! tablespoons Pepper (ground) 15 g 1 teaspoon Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Combine Guinea corn and water and boil for 20 minutes. Stir in cowpeas and cook until tender. Blend in groundnut paste, pepper, and salt. Cook for additional 5 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 350-400 g.

49 Egwa Hikaje (Cowpeas with Pepper Sauce) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure

Black-eyed cowpeas 500 g 3 milk cups Pepper sauce (made with palm oil) 400 g 7 stirring spoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water 1800 ml 9 milk cups

Preparation Cook cowpeas until squashy soft (approximately 2 hours). Stir cowpeas until they become a smooth thick paste (approximately 5 minutes). Add 5 stirring spoons of dry-fried pepper sauce and mix well. Continue heating for another 3 minutes. Serve garnished with part of the pepper sauce.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 220 g.

50 Adalu (Cowpeas and Maize) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (soft coat) 180 g 1 milk cup Maize (fresh or dried) 150 g 1 milk cup Pepper (ground) 20 g 1t teaspoons Palm oil (or any edible oil) 40ml 3 stirring spoons Smoked fish or crayfish 15 g 2 tablespoons Water 2200 ml 11 milk cups Potash (if desired) A dash A dash

Preparation Remove corn from cobs if fresh, and cook in water for about 50 minutes. If dried corn is used, soak in water overnight. Strain when ready to cook. Prepare cowpeas, wash, and add to corn. If desired add potash. Cook until soft (approx­ imately 70 minutes). Add other ingredients and cook until pepper has lost its nippy taste, and mixture is a bit squashed together (approximately H hours). Add salt to taste. Serve as a dish on its own.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 170 g.

51 Egwa lbala (Cowpeas with Corn Flour) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Black-eyed cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Corn flour (roasted) or gari 140 g 1 milk cup Pepper (pounded dry) 15 g 1 teaspoon Palm oil (or other edible oil) 55 ml 1 stirring spoon Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water 850 ml 4 milk cups

Preparation Cook cowpeas until soft but not squashy (approximately 60 minutes). Leave some water in cowpeas to steam corn flour. Mix corn flour with water to a crumbly consistency. Make a hole in the middle of the cowpeas and pour corn flour into it. Reduce fire and simmer until corn flour cooks (approximately 20 minutes). Remove from fire, stir in the cowpeas, corn flour, oil, pepper, and salt. Serve as a main dish.

Notes • Egwa lbala is suitable for breakfast for farmers and people doing heavy work, but it is also suitable as a lunch dish. • Approximate adult serving 170 g.

52 Obo Egwa (Smoked Fish and Cowpea Soup) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (de hulled) 170 g 1 milk cup Water 1200 ml 6 milk cups Potash A dash A dash Smoked fish 110 g 4 tablespoons Palm oil 50ml 1 stirring spoon Dried pepper (ground) 10 g 1 teaspoon Onions (ground) 30 g 3 teaspoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Cook cowpeas with a little potash for about 1 hour or until soft and squashed. Add the smoked fish and other ground ingredients plus the oil and cook until done (ap­ proximately 20 minutes). Stir well and serve.

Notes

• Accompany obo (soup) with pounded yam, fufu, tuwo, eba, or corn foofoo. • Approximate adult serving 100-120 g.

53 Epeza Soup (Cowpea Flour Soup with Spinach) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure

Cowpea flour (homemade) 85 g t milk cup Smoked fish 130 g 3 milk cups Cube flavouring (maggi) 1t cubes 1t cubes Locust bean cakes (daudawa) 30 g t tablespoon Boiled spinach leaves 40 g 2 stirring spoons Water for starting soup 500ml 2t milk cups Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Dry pepper 5g t teaspoon Oil 170 ml 4 stirring spoons (1 milk cup)

Preparation Break locust bean cakes into water with fingers. Add maggi cubes and oil to water and place on fire. Soak fish, wash removing bones, and add to mixture. Add dry pepper. Add additional 140 ml (t milk cup) water and stir in cowpea flour with a stirring broom or whisk. Stir very quickly to avoid lumps. Stir for 3 minutes, then add more water for cowpeas to absorb after soup thickens (add approximately 170 ml or 1 milk cup). Add boiled spinach after cowpea flour is cooked, and cook for additional 2 minutes. Serve immediately with pounded yams, yam flour meal, or eba.

Notes • Do not store. Must be used immediately. • Approximate adult serving 200 g.

54 Charodokun Blau (Sorrel and Cowpea Soup) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Dehulled cow peas (soak 1 hour) 200 g 1! milk cups Water (to start cooking) 1200 ml 6 milk cups Potash A dash A dash 3 Onion 15 g 4 tablespoon Smoked fish 55 g 1 milk cup 1 Pepper 20 g 2 stirring spoon J_ Locust bean cakes ( daudawa) 15 g 2 tablespoon Fresh cooked and beaten is ha pa (red sorrel) 225 g 4 stirring spoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water (for further cooking) !OOOml 5 milk cups Palm oil (or any edible oil) 250 ml 1!- stirring spoons

Preparation Cook cowpeas in water, add potash after 6 minutes. Continue cooking, clearing foam from water until cowpeas soften (approximately 20 minutes). Add chopped onions and washed smoked fish, continue soaking. Add locust bean cakes. Add more water to thin soup in preparation for adding ishapa. Add freshly cooked and beaten ishapa. Cook for 3 minutes and then add palm oil. Salt to taste, and cook for 4 minutes. If left too long, the soup will thicken; therefore, serve it immediately with foofoo, eba, or tuwo.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 170-200 g.

55 Awuje (Cowpea Soup with Smoked Fish) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Onion (ground) 110 g 4 tablespoons Pepper (ground) 110 g 4 tablespoons Palm oil (or any edible oil) 110 ml 4 tablespoons Crayfish or smoked fish 110 g 4 tablespoons Water 3000 ml 15 milk cups Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Prepare cowpeas by washing and cooking until soft. Add other ingredients. Cook for a further 15 minutes. Serve as a main dish with eba or yam flour meal.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 150-200 g.

56 Akara (Kosai, Akla, or Accara) (Fried Cowpea Balls) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure

Cowpea paste 210 g 1t milk cups Pepper or ginger (chopped) 30 g 1 tablespoon Onions (chopped) 30 g 1 t tablespoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water (if needed) 200 ml 1 milk cup Fat for frying 800 ml 4 milk cups

Preparation Incorporate air into the cowpea paste with a whisk or beater for 3 minutes, adding a small quantity of water if paste is too thick. Just before frying add salt to the mixture and stir well. Sprinkle the onions and pepper into the mixture. Fry as small balls (approx 25 g) in deep hot fat for 3 minutes. When cooked, the balls are golden brown and crisp. Serve with hot or cold eko, koko, or gari, or as a snack as "small chops" served with oil and pepper sauce.

Notes

• To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • Akara balls are suitable for breakfast served with akasa or koko, and for supper with pepper sauce. • Particularly used for breaking Ramadan fasts when served with koko. • Approximate adult serving 100 g ( 5-6 akara balls).

57 Awon (Fried Cowpea Balls with Okra} Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 212 g lt milk cups Pepper (ground) 28 g 1 t tablespoons Onion (ground) 28 g 1 t tablespoons Okra (grated) 25 g 1 tablespoon Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Fat for deep frying As required As required Water As required As required

Preparation Thoroughly incorporate air into the mixture of cowpea paste and grated okra. Add the other ingredients, salt to taste, and mix. Fry small balls in deep hot fat for about 3 minutes. The finished balls are green inside. Serve with eko or gari.

Notes • To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to ·the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • Approximate adult serving 100 g (7-8 balls).

58 Kengbe (Large Akara Balls Fried in Palm Oil) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 210 g lt milk cups Pepper (chopped) 55 g 2 stirring spoons Onions (chopped) 55 g 2 stirring spoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Fat (preferably palm oil) 800 ml 4 milk cups

Preparation Kengbe requires no additional water, other than the water used for making the paste. Incorporate air into the mixture but retain the thick consistency. Add and mix chopped ingredients plus salt to taste. Fry large balls (approx 85-110 g) in deep hot fat for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with hot or cold eko or gari.

Notes

• To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • Traditionally served at funerals or large gatherings. • Approximate adult serving 100 g (or 1 ball).

59 Seke-Sin (Koose) (Fried Cowpea Cakes with Green Onions) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 210 g lt milk cups Green pepper (chopped) 55 g 2 tablespoons Green leafy onions (chopped) 55 g 2 tablespoons Onion bulb or base (ground) 55 g 2 tablespoons S1,tlt 15 g 1 teaspoon Light or colourless oil for frying 800ml 4 milk cups Water If required If required

Preparation Saving a few green peppers and leafy green onions for chopping, grind the rest, including the leafy onion bulbs (bases). Incorporate air into the cowpea paste, until it is light in consistency but not runny. If too thick add water. Add the ground ingredients, salt to taste, and mix. Sprinkle chopped ingredients into mixture. Fry small quantities (approx 14 g) of the paste in deep light-coloured fat for 2 minutes. Serve with eko, ogi ( akamu), or gari, or on its own as a main dish for breakfast or a light supper.

Notes • To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • Approximate adult serving 100 g (6-7 pieces).

60 Ekuru (Steamed Paste) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 280 g 2 milk cups Water If necessary If necessary Leaves or cups 6-10 6-10

Preparation Incorporate air into paste to make it very light, but not runny in consistency. Wrap 50-g (2-stirring spoon) portions in leaves, or fill milk cups or pudding cups three- quarters full. Cover with leaves, or lids if preferred. When cooked it is thick but fluffy like a pound cake. Serve crumbled up and mixed with palm oil sauce, fry very dry. Serve for lunch or supper.

Notes • To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • No salt is added to the mixture. • Approximate adult serving 50-100 g (approx two portions).

61 Moin-Moin (Ole-le, Alele, or Tabani) (Steamed Cakes) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 280 g 2 milk cups Onion (ground) 140 g 5 tablespoons Pepper (ground) 85 g 3 tablespoons Tomato puree 15 g 1 tablespoon Oil 60ml 4 stirring spoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Smoked fish or crayfish As required As required Leaves or cups (optional) 6-12 6-12 Water If required If required

Preparation Stir ground ingredients and oil into paste. To every 1 cup of paste add 2 stirring spoons of warm (but not hot) oil. Add water to give a fairly runny consistency. Salt to taste. Chop smoked fish or crayfish and add to the mixture, or add a little of each to the portions during the wrapping process. Wrap portions in leaves (approx 55 g or 2 stirring spoons). Steam for about 1t hours or until the paste solidifies and the leaves are clean when they are removed.

Notes

• To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • Any cooked proteinous food can be substituted for smoked fish or crayfish, e.g. prawns, lobster, eggs, sardines, corned beef, liver, or heart. • Serve with hot or cold eko, gari, or bread, or as an accompaniment to rice or small chops at a cocktail party. • Approximate adult serving is 100-120 g (two portions).

62 Jogi (Steamed Cakes with Toasted Melon Seeds) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 280 g 2 milk cups Toasted melon seeds 60 g 6 tablespoons Dry pepper (ground) 30 g 4 tablespoons Onions (ground) 140 g 1 Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Oil 60 g 4 stirring spoons Water As required As required Leaves or cups As required As required Fish or any proteinous food Optional Optional

Preparation Slightly grind toasted melon seeds into a coarse powder. Blend the melon powder, pepper, and onion into the cowpea paste. Add the oil and mix. Add water to make mixture a fairly light consistency and salt to taste. Wrap 55-g (2-stirring spoon) portions in leaves, or fill milk cups three-quarters full. Cover the tops and steam for about 1t hours. When the mixture is ready, it should be hard and have a deep colour. Serve with hot or cold eko or gari.

Notes

• To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone, add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quaHty product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30). • Approximate adult serving 100-120 g ( 2 portions).

63 lkoko (Steamed Cakes with Smoked Fish or Shrimp) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea paste 200 g lt milk cups Green pepper (ground) 30 g 1 tablespoon Bulb of green leafy onion 30 g 1 tablespoon Toasted ground melon seed 30 g 3 tablespoons Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water 400 ml 2 milk cups Smoked fish or shrimp Optional Optional

Preparation Prepare paste as for moin-moin, adding the ground ingredients. Wrap 100-g (2-stirring spoon) portion in leaves, adding smoked fish or shrimp to each portion. Steam for about 1 hour. Serve with hot or cold eko or gari. An adult portion is 50 g.

Alternative Method Cover the bottom of the steamer with clean wrapping leaves. Put small portions of the above mixture (about 30 g) on top of the leaves. Cover with clean leaves. Alternate the layers of leaves and portions of mixture. Cover the very top with leaves and steam for 45 minutes. An adult portion is about 4 balls. Serve as above. Notes • To prepare paste with a household blender, add 130-140 ml of water for every milk cup of soaked dehulled cowpeas (approx 110 g) and blend until a smooth paste is obtained. When using a grinding stone; add the water to the paste as needed in whip­ ping. See text (pages 20-25) for further details and precautions necessary to obtain a quality product. • Can also be made using cowpea flour (see pages 29-30) . • The addition of the toasted ground melon seeds makes the cakes heavy when cooked. Therefore, one portion may be sufficient for an adult helping. • Suitable for lunch and supper.

64 Apa pa (Steamed Cakes with Bitter Pepper) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Dried cowpeas 425 g 3 milk cups Potash 15 g 1 teaspoon Onions 170 g 1 Atarodo (bitter pepper) 85 g 2 stirring spoons Palm oil 85 g 2 stirring spoons Water 400ml 2 milk cups Leaves As required As required

Preparation Soak cowpeas for 3 hours. Chop onions and mix with cowpeas, pepper, and potash. Add the oil and water. Mix to a smooth paste and salt to taste. Ready pot for steaming and place on the fire. Wrap mixture (2-stirring spoon portions) in leaves and steam in co·vered pot for about 1 hour. Serve with hot or cold eko or gari as a light meal.

Notes • Approximate adult serving is 2 apapa when eaten alone or 1 portion when eaten as an accompaniment to another food.

65 Owowo (Corn, Cowpeas, and Groundnuts) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 170 g 1 milk cup Corn 170 g 1 milk cup Groundnuts (fresh) 140 g 1 milk cup Coconut 1 small 1 small Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water 400 ml Twice weight of water (2 milk cups)

Preparation If dried corn is used, soak overnight. Half cook the corn, then prepare the cowpeas and add them to the partly cooked corn. When three-quarters cooked, add groundnut to the mixture of corn and cowpeas. Cook until all three are done, but remain whole (allow about 2-! hours in total). Salt to taste. Break, wash, and slice coconut meat to garnish the dish.

Notes • Serve as a refreshment or snack. • Approximate adult serving 100-150 g.

66 Ayibli (Cowpeas and Maize) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Maize 160 g 1 milk cup Water for boiling 5000 ml 25 milk cups Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon

Preparation Use brown cowpeas. Soak the maize and cowpeas separately overnight. The maize may be pounded to remove the husk. Boil the maize until partly cooked. Add the cowpeas to the maize and cook until tender (whole grains) and the liquid has evaporated. Add salt. Serve with chunks of fresh coconut and roasted groundnuts as a snack or refreshment.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 100-200 g.

67 Roasted Cowpeas Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Cold water As required As required

Preparation Wash cowpeas and soak them for 30 minutes m salty water (enough to cover cowpeas). Drain and place in a pot with a little water. Cook until the water evaporates, stirring constantly. Continue stirring the cowpeas under an even heat to avoid burning or uneven browning. Keep roasting until the skins rub off (about 1 hour). Serve at parties as snacks.

Notes

• If stored in an airtight container they will keep for at least 3 months. • Approximate adult serving 50-100 g.

68 Adayi (Leki, Paat) (Cowpea Puree Baby Food) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (de hulled) 340 g 2 milk cups Salt 15 g 1 teaspoon Water 1400 ml 7 milk cups

Preparation Soak cowpeas and remove the seed coats. Boil until soft and mashy. Add a little salt. Use a wooden spoon and press against the side of the pan to obtain a smooth paste or puree.

Notes • May be served with fried tomato sauce. • Margarine or dzomi may be added. • Suitable dish for infants and toddlers.

69 Aprapransa (Palmnut and Cowpea Puree) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 390 g 3 milk cups Palm puree 840ml 4 milk cups (Palmnuts for palm puree) (1000 g) (6 milk cups) Smoked shrimps (ground) 40 g 2 tablespoons Dry smoked fish 100 g 2 small Tomatoes I20 g 2 small Onions 60 g I medium Pepper 20 g It teaspoons Ginger IO g I teaspoon Salt IO g I teaspoon Water 300ml It milk cups

Preparation Add the water to palm puree and boil. Add ground tomatoes, onions, smoked shrimp, ginger, pepper, and dry fish. Cook for 30 minutes. Add cowpea flour and stir briskly using a wooden spoon until cooked (about 20 minutes). Serve hot with tomato, onion, and pepper sauce.

Notes • To make palm puree, boil the palmnuts until soft, pound, strain, and mix with water. Boil the liquid for 30 minutes to make it thick. • Approximate adult serving 350-400 g.

70 Cowpea Kakro (Fried Plantain and Cowpea Cakes) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Very ripe plantain 480 g 2 fingers Cowpea flour 60 g t milk cup Ginger 5g t teaspoon Pepper 5g t teaspoon Onion 50 g 2 small Salt 5g t teaspoon Palm oil 280 ml 1t milk cups Wheat flour 40 g 4 tablespoons

Preparation Wash, peel, and pound plantain until smooth. Mix well with cowpea flour. Add ground ginger and onion and salt to taste. Heat oil and fry in spoonfuls. Serve hot with seasoned pepper sauce.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 100-150 g.

71 Cowpea Ofam (Baked Cowpea and Plantain Loaf) Serves 6-8

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Very ripe plantain 1100 g 4 fingers Cowpea flour 60 g t milk cup Wheat flour 60 g t milk cup Palm puree 280 ml lt milk cups (Palmnuts for puree) (500 g) (3 milk cups) Onion 80 g 2 small Pepper (optional) 4g t teaspoon Ground ginger 10 g 1 teaspoon Palm oil 40ml 3 tablespoons Salt 10 g 1 teaspoon Water 560 ml 3 milk cups

Preparation Wash, peel, and pound plantain until smooth. Mix with cowpea flour and add palm puree and seasonings. Allow to stand for 10-15 minutes, pour the mixture into greased pie dish, and spread some palm oil on top. Bake in a moderately hot oven ( 177 °C for 30-45 minutes). Allow to cool. Slice and serve.

Notes

• May be served with roasted groundnuts. • To make palm puree, boil the palmnuts until soft, pound, strain, and mix with water. Boil the liquid for 30 minutes to make it thick. • Approximate adult serving 100-150 g.

72 Palm Soup with Cowpeas Serves 6-8

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Palmnuts 1800 g 10 milk cups Beef 450 g 1 pound Smoked fish 260 g 1 cut piece Cowpeas 170 g 1 milk cup Tomatoes 140 g 2 medium Onion 60 g 1 medium Pepper 10 g 1 teaspoon Smoked shrimp (ground) 20 g I tablespoon Salt 10 g 1 teaspoon Water 1400ml 7 milk cups

Preparation Soak cowpeas for 1 hour, wash, and boil until partly cooked. Clean meat and cut into pieces, add salt and chopped onions, and steam for 20 minutes. Wash palmnuts and boil until soft (about 30-40 minutes). Pound the palmnuts, mix with water, and strain. Add the palm liquid to the meat and continue boiling until meat is tender and the palm liquid becomes fairly thick ( 45 minutes to 1 hour). Grind tomatoes, pepper, and onions and add to the soup. Continue boiling and then add the smoked fish and the cooked cowpeas. Simmer for 15-20 minutes or until well cooked. Serve with fufu or akple.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 250-300 g.

73 Nkontommere Stew with Cowpeas Serves 5~

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Nkontommere 450 g 5-6 leaves Smoked fish 450 g 1 large piece Salted fish 30 g 1 small piece Cowpeas 120 g t milk cup Tomatoes 170 g 2 medium Onions 20 g 1 small Pepper (ground) 10 g t teaspoon Palm oil 200ml 1 milk cup Salt 10 g 1 teaspoon Water 200ml 1 milk cup

Preparation Boil the cowpeas until they are soft and most of the liquid has evaporated. Wash nkontommere and then steam for 10 minutes. Cut onions and tomatoes into pieces and fry in the oil. Add pepper to prepared sauce. Wash the salted and smoked fish and add to the sauce. Stir constantly. Mash the boiled nkontommere and add to the sauce. Add the boiled cowpeas and salt to taste. Allow to simmer for 10 minutes. Serve with boiled yam or plantain, rice, bu rabusko, or couscous.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 250-300 g.

74 Okra Soup with Cowpea Leaves Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Okra 280 g 12 pieces Cowpea leaves 120 g 1 bundle Tomatoes 120 g 1 large Onion 60 g 2 medium Pepper 10 g 1 teaspoon Salt 20 g 1 t teaspoons Meat 230 g t pound Smoked fish 280 g 1 medium piece Palm oil (dzomi) 120 ml t milk cup Potash A pinch A pinch Water 420ml 2 milk cups Ground shrimp 20 g 1 tablespoon Ground ginger 10 g t teaspoon Salted fish 20 g A piece Preparation Wash meat and cut into pieces. Add chopped onions and salt, then steam for 15-20 minutes. Add water and boil until meat is tender. Add ground ,tomatoes, shrimp, ginger, pepper, smoked fish, and palm oil. Cut okra and green leaves into pieces. Add the green leaves and boil for 10 minutes, then add the okra. Cook for 15-20 minutes or until done. Serve with akple or banku.

Alternate method Fry the ground tomatoes, onion, ginger, shrimp, and pepper in the oil to make a sauce. (This is advisable if the palm oil is not a superior type.) Add the meat and stock and then the smoked and salted fish. Add the leaves and the cut okra and cook until done. As a final flavouring add some more ground onion. Notes • Cowpea leaves can also be added to palm soup and groundnut soup. • Approximate adult serving 250-300 g.

75 Cowpea Garifoto Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Gari 230 g 2 milk cups Eggs 2 or 3 2 or 3 Onions 60 g 1 large Tomatoes (fresh) 200g 1 large or 2 medium Tomato paste 30 g 1 tablespoon Smoked shrimp (ground) 20 g 1 tablespoon Cooking oil 120ml t milk cup Pepper and salt To taste To taste Water for cooking 2000ml 10 milk cups

Preparation Wash and boil the cowpeas until very soft and dry. Beat the eggs and add some ground onion, salt, and tomato paste. Fry into an omelette and cut into strips. With the remaining oil make a sauce using fresh ground onions and tomatoes, the paste, ground shrimp, pepper, and salt. Do not add water. Sprinkle the gari with water to dampen it, then toss lightly. Add to the sauce and mix well. Add the cooked cowpeas and mix. Serve decorated with the strips of omelette.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 250--300 g.

76 Cowpea Stew with Egg Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Dzomi (superior palm oil) 200ml 1 milk cup Onion (sliced) 60 g 1 large Tomatoes 215 g 1 large or 2 medium Pepper and salt To taste To taste Water for cooking 2000 mt 10 milk cups Eggs 4 4 Smoked shrimp (ground) 20 g 1 tablespoon

Preparation Wash and cook the cowpeas until soft and dry. Fry the sliced onion, tomatoes, pepper, and ground smoked shrimp in the palm oil. Add salt and the cooked cowpeas. Simmer for 5-10 minutes. Garnish with four hard-boiled eggs and serve with any of the following: boiled rice, fried or boiled plantain, boiled yam, or abolo.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 150-200 g.

77 Ayikple with Shrimp Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Roasted cornmeal 270 g 2 milk cups Smoked shrimp (ground) 20 g 1 tablespoon Onion 60g 1 large Tomatoes 200g 1 large Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Cooking oil 120 ml t cup Water for cooking 2000 ml 10 milk cups Shrimp (fresh) 500 g 3 milk cups

Preparation Wash the cowpeas, then boil until soft, leaving some liquid. Add salt, ground onion, smoked shrimp, tomatoes, and cooking oil. Mash the cowpeas slightly against the pot. While boiling, add the roasted cornmeal and stir briskly. Add just enough cornmeal to obtain the desired softness. Mould and decorate with freshly fried shrimp and sauce.

Notes • Serve as a main meal. • Approximate adult serving 250--300 g.

78 Yakayake from Cowpeas Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 280 g 2 milk cups Water 280ml lt milk cups

Preparation Add water to cowpea flour and beat until very light and fluffy (about 20-30 minutes). Fill cups or tins with paste and steam (wrapping leaves may also be used). When cooked, allow to cool. Crumble finely ilike couscous and mix with onion and tomato sauce. May also be mixed with palm oil.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 250-300 g.

79 Cowpea Pie Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (brown type) 340 g 2 milk cups Rice 150 g 1 milk cup Smoked herrings (ground) 90 g 2 small pieces Onions 30 g 1 medium Tomatoes 170 g 3 small or 1 large Pepper 10 g t teaspoon Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Cooking oil 50ml 4 tablespoons Water for cooking 2000 ml 10 milk cups Margarine (for pastry) 60 g 2 tablespoons Wheat flour (for pastry) 120 g 7 tablespoons ( 1 milk cup) Preparation Cook cowpeas and rice until very soft, then mash together. Prepare using oil, ground tomatoes, onion, pepper, ground herring, and salt. Add half of the gravy to the mashed rice and cowpeas. Make pastry and line a greased pie dish. Pour the mixture into the pie dish and bake in moderately hot oven (20 minutes). When cooked, spread with the remaining gravy and serve.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 170 g.

80 Cow pea Tea Cake Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 70 g 4 tablespoons or t milk cup Wheat flour 120 g 1 milk cup Eggs 120 g 2 Margarine 110 g 4 tablespoons Sugar 80 g 4 tablespoons i Nutmeg (flavouring) 5g 2 teaspoon Salt 5g t teaspoon Baking powder 5 g 1 teaspoon Water for mixing 50ml 4 tablespoons

Preparation Cream the margarine, sugar, and salt until frothy. Break the eggs into the mixture and beat well. Add the nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients and fold into the cream mixture. Fill cake tins ~r small cake cups and bake (1 hour).

Notes • Serve for an afternoon tea. • Approximate adult serving 120 g.

81 Cowpea Cocktail Tidbits Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 80 g t milk cup Wheat flour 80 g t milk cup Egg whites 120 ml 2 Baking powder 4g 1 teaspoon Salt 5g t teaspoon Onion 20 g 1 small Water 20 ml 2 tablespoons Cooking oil 80 ml 7 tablespoons (t milk cup)

Preparation Soak the cowpeas to remove the husk. Partly dry the cowpeas, then grind. Add onion and salt. Beat the egg whites until fluffy and add to the mixture. Mix well with dry ingredients. Roll out thinly and make into fancy shapes. Deep fry and serve with drinks.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 50-70 g.

82 Cowpea Sandwich Spread Serves 8-10

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 230 g I! milk cups Onion (grated) 10 g I teaspoon Lemon juice 15ml I teaspoon Margarine 10 g I teaspoon Nutmeg A little A little Salt 5g t teaspoon Water for cooking 1400ml 7 milk cups

Preparation Boil the cowpeas until very soft, then press them through a sieve to make a smooth paste. Add other ingredients plus seasonings and mix well. Serve as a sandwich spread with slices of tomato and bread.

Notes • Makes an excellent lunch. • Approximate adult serving 50-75 g.

83 Cowpea Apiti Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cow peas 170 g 1 milk cup Corn dough 60 g 2 tablespoons Egg 60 g 1 Palm oil 120ml -!- milk cup (9 tablespoons) i Pepper (optional) 3-4 g 4 teaspoon Onion 20 g 1 small Salt 14 g 1 teaspoon i Water lOOml 2 milk cup

Preparation Soak the cowpeas, remove the , and grind the cowpeas into a paste. Mix the cowpea paste with the corn dough and add the palm oil. Add some water to the paste to make a dropping consistency. Add ground pepper, onion, and salt. Beat the egg and stir into the mixture. Pour into greased tins and bake until golden brown (approx 20 minutes).

Notes • Approximate adult serving 90 g.

84 Cowpea Croquettes Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cow peas 340 g 2 milk cups Rice 170 g l milk cup Tomatoes 140 g l large Onion 20 g l medium Pepper 10 g t teaspoon Salt JO g t teaspoon Cooking oil (for frying and gravy) 600 ml 3 milk cups Water 400ml 2 milk cups

Preparation Soak the cowpeas, remove the husks, and grind the cowpeas into a paste. Cook the rice until very soft, mash the cooked rice, and add it to the cowpea paste. Add salt to taste. Form into balls and deep fry. Make a gravy using some oil, ground tomato, onion, pepper, and salt and serve with the croquettes.

Notes • Rice flour or roasted cornmeal may be used in place of the cooked rice. • Rice flour mixed with cowpea flour and salt may be made into dough, formed into balls, and fried. • Approximate adult serving 120 g.

85 Eggs in Cowpea Blankets (Scotch Eggs) Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 250 g It milk cups Hard-boiled eggs 3 3 Onion 20 g 1 medium Nutmeg or curry powder 10 g t teaspoon Wheat flour 20 g 1 tablespoon Salt 10 g t teaspoon

Preparation Soak cowpeas, remove the husks, grind the cowpeas into a smooth paste, and whip lightly. Add ground onion, seasonings, and flour. Coat each boiled egg with the paste and deep fry in hot oil. Cut into halves and serve with drinks.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 60 g (one-half egg).

86 Cowpea Crepes Serves 5--6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpea flour 50 g 2 tablespoons Wheat flour 120 g 4 tablespoons Egg 65 g 1 Grated nutmeg 6g 1 teaspoon Granulated sugar 50 g 2 tablespoons Salt 15 g t teaspoon Diluted milk 170 ml t cup milk+ t cup water Oil for frying 50ml 4 tablespoons

Preparation Soak cowpeas, remove the husk, and grind the cowpeas into a smooth paste. Prepare batter with flour, milk, and egg (diluted milk is t cup evaporated milk + t cup wate,r). Add nutmeg and the cowpea paste to batter, mix well, and allow to stand for 30 minutes. Shallow fry and roll in granulated sugar. Serve with slices of lemon.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 50 g.

87 Cowpea Cutlets Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 500 g 3 milk cups Eggs 300 g 4 Tomatoes 240 g 2 large Onion 60 g 8 shallots Shrimp (ground) 20 g 1 tablespoon Bread crumbs 300 g 2 milk cups Cooking oil for sauce 40ml 3 tablespoons Salt 10 g ! ,teaspoon Pepper 10 g t teaspoon Water for cooking cowpeas 2400 ml 12 milk cups Oil for frying 1000 ml 5 milk cups

Preparation Use brown cowpeas for rich brown colour. Cook until soft and dry. Pass through a sieve to make a smooth paste. Make a sauce using the oil, ground tomatoes, onion, pepper, shrimp, and salt. Add the sauce to the paste and mix well. Mould into cutlet shapes. Brush with beaten egg and coat with bread crumbs. Repeat. Deep fry and serve hot with salad.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 150 g.

88 Cowpea Salad Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 170 g 1 milk cup String beans 150 g 1 milk cup Onion 60 g 1 medium Tomatoes 230 g 2 medium Salad oil 50 ml 4 tablespoons Vinegar 25 ml 2 tablespoons Salt 10 g t teaspoon Water for cooking 1400 ml 7 milk cups

Preparation Wash the cowpeas, then boil until soft and dry. Cook the string beans separately. Slice the onions and tomatoes. Make a dressing with the vinegar, oil, and salt. Toss the cooked cowpeas and string beans into the dressing. Chill and serve decorated with tomato wedges and onion rings.

Notes

• Approximate adult serving 100-150 g.

89 Cow peas and Saffron Rice Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas (rich brown colour) 150 g 1 milk cup Rice 256 g 1t milk cups Groundnut oil 200ml 1 milk cup Salt 20 g 1 teaspoon Onion 60 g 1 medium Water for boiling 2000 ml 10 milk cups Saffron 2 cubes 2 cubes

Preparation Cook the cowpeas and rice separately. Boil the cowpeas until they are soft and much of the liquid has evaporated, then add the salt. Boil the rice in the saffron solution to obtain a nice yellow colour. Fry slices of onion in the cooking oil and toss the cooked rice and cowpeas into it. Season well and serve. Decorate with slices of tomatoes and French green beans.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 150-200 g.

90 Cowpea Strips Serves 5-6

Ingredients Quantity Handy measure Cowpeas 340 g 2 milk cups Wheat flour 100 g t milk cup Onion 30 g 1 large Salt 10 g t teaspoon Oil for frying 800ml 4 milk cups

Preparation Soak cowpeas, remove the husks, and grind the cowpeas into a smooth paste. Add ground onion, salt, and flour and mix weH. Heat the oil and extrude the mixture from a cake decorator, in strips, into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown and crisp. Serve for cocktails or as snacks.

Notes • Approximate adult serving 50-75 g.

91 References

Annegers, J. F. 1974. Protein quality in West International Development Research Centre. African foods. Ecology of Food and Nutrition, 1973. Consumer food utilization in the semi­ 3(2): 125-130. arid tropics of Africa. IDRC-016e, Ottawa, Canada. 16 p. Aykroyd, W. K., and J. Doughty. 1964. Le­ gumes in human nutrition. Food and Agri­ International Institute of Tropical Agriculture. culture Organization of the United Nations, 1973. Grain legumes improvement program. Rome, Italy. 1973 Report. IITA, Ibadan, Nigeria. Kuranchie, P.A. 1975. Cowpea production Cameron, M., and Y. Hofvander. 1971. Manual and marketing in Ghana. Food Research on feeding infants and young children. Protein Institute, Accra, Ghana (in press). Advisory Group of the United Nations, Rome, Muller, F. M. 1967. Cooking quality of pulses. Italy. Journal of the Science of Food and Agri­ Dalziel, J.M. 1937. The useful plants of west culture, 18: 292-295. tropical Africa. Crown Agents for Overseas Platt, B. S. 1962. Tables of representative Governments and Administratives, London, values of foods commonly used in tropical England. countries. Medical Research Corps Special Report 302. Dovlo, F. 1975. Consumer preference study of cowpeas in tJhe Volta Region, Ghana. Food Simmons, E. B. 1973. The economics of con­ Research Institute, Accra, Ghana (in press). sumer-oriented food processing technology in northern Nigeria. IDRC-016e (Annex), Ot­ Food and Agriculture Organization of the United tawa, Canada. 27 p. Nations. 1961. Calcium requirements. Report Smirl, C. A., and L. Zoaka. 1974. Consumer of a joint FAQ/WHO expert group. FAO, preference study for cowpeas in Maiduguri. Rome, Italy. Pilot Hour Mill, Ministry of Natural Re­ 1965. Requirements for vitamin A, thi­ sources, Maiduguri, North Eastern State, amine, riboflavin, and niacin. Report of a joint Nigeria (in press). FAO/WHO expert group. FAO, Rome, Italy. Stanton, W.R. 1966. Grain legumes in Africa. 1970. Requirements for ascorbic acid, Food and Agriculture Organization of the vitamin D, vitamin B12, folate, and iron. Re­ United Nations, Rome, Italy. port of a joint FAQ/WHO expert group. FAO, Rome, Italy. Williams, C. E. 1974. A preliminary study of consumer preference in the choice of cowpeas: 1972. Energy and protein requirements. Western and Kwara State Headquarters and Report of a joint FAO/WHO expert group. areas of Nigeria. Department of Agricultural FAO, Rome, Italy. Economics and Extension, University of 1974. Handbook on human nutrition re­ Ibadan, Ibadan, Nigeria. 103 p. quirements. FAO, Rome, Italy. Williams, C. E., and G. Yaciuk. 1975. The Hashidu, A. 1975. Farm storage trials on cow­ development of a methodology for the analysis peas, North Eastern State, Pilot Flour Mill, of consumer preference studies. Centre na­ Ministry of Natural Resources, Maidugµri, tional de recherches agronomiques, Bambey, North Eastern State, Nigera (in press). Senegal (in press).

92 Appendix I Traditional Cowpea Cookery

This quotation from Dalziel 1937 (page 268) provides one of the most interesting early accounts of local cowpea cookery in West Africa and demonstrates the versatility of this crop and the long history of its use. (Ful. - Fulani; Kats. - Katsina; Sok. - Sokoto; and Y or. - Yoruba.) In native cookery various forms of bean food are recognised by their vernacular names. In Hausa some of these are: k'ulu, boiled beans ... ; 'ba/asa (Gobir) bruised and cooked, wasawasa or amberuwa, ponidge of bean flour often mixed with leaf and fruit of baobab, boiled and dried to keep till required; soto, cakes of bean flour; jan k'arago ...; waina, cakes sometimes of fine bean flour cooked with groundnut oil, but commonly also of cereal flour; arai, akara (Yor. akara) and 'balaggada are forms of bean-cake; tubani, Ful. gu/guli, a paste of pounded beans, sometimes with Voandzeia, mixed with native natron (kanwa) tied up in a leaf and boiled; gauda or 'dan gauda, or gauda-gauda (Sok. and Kats.), a bean food wrapped in leaves of Bauhinia thonningii and boiled; 'dan wake, portions of dry bean meal mixed with kanwa are dropped into boiling water to form balls or lumps, which are eaten with roman gya'da (a soup of groundnuts) or made up into balls with groundnut oil, salt, red peppers, sesame or baobab leaf, etc., and taken without soup; k'osai, balls like dough-nuts made of a paste of beans fried in groundnut oil or shea butter, sometimes with mucilage of Ceratotheca sesamoides added for cohesion (similar to k'walli k'walli of groundnuts, and abakuru of Voandzeia). In Gold Coast, N. Terr., the Dagomba asiakomo is the equivalent of the Hausa k'osai (Coull). Yoruba bean foods - ekuru, ale or olele, moin-moin are men­ tioned under Phaseolus lunatus. The unripe pods are used as vegetables like haricots verts; they are called in Hausa iim-birdin wake, Nupe zonbara. The young leaves are sometimes used as a pot-herb (Yor. owe). The leaves dried and pounded are also kept for use as a soup vegetable, known as maka (East Hausa or ?Kanuri) .... As an article of diet the people recognise the disadvantages incidental to beans in general, uncertainty of digestion and degree of absorption (see under Phaseolus lunatus). In England the pre­ judice against peas, beans and lentils, the cheapest form of protein food, is familiar to every food reformer, or Medical Officer of Health, owing to the supposed indigestibility and difficulty in cooking. Hausa folk-sayings or nicknames refer to the unsatisfactory properties of the beans in the field, in the pot and in the stomach .... Removal of the tough skin by soaking is usually done, and the addition of kanwa (composed chiefly of sodium carbonate and bicarbonate) doubtless improves the cooking and renders the product more digestible.

93 Appendix II Local and Botanical Names of Ingredients Used in Recipes (Dalziel 1937)

Baobab leaves (kuka) Adansonia digitata Beans llina sp. Cowpeas Vigna unguiculata Fermented African locust beans (daudawa) Parkia biglobosa Ishapa ( red so rre 1) Hibiscus safdariffa Jos pepper Capsicum sp. Karkashi (like sesamum leaves) Ceratotheca sesamoides Lalo (shoots of the young tree) Corchorus tridem Melon seeds Co/ocynthis citrullus Okra Hibiscus oscu/autus Onions A/lium cepa Oyo (Ewedu) Corochorous olitorius Wrapping leaves Thaumatococcus sp. or Sarcophryuin sp.

Appendix III Description of Dishes Mentioned as Accompaniments to Main Cowpea Dishes

A bolo Steamed maize dough paste Agidi Thickened maize porridge or pap Akamu Refined maize flour porridge (thin) Akasa Maize dough pap Akple Thick maize and cassava porridge (moulded) Banku Corn dough porridge Burabusko Steamed couscous made from farina of millet Dzomi Sweet scented palm oil (superior type) Eba Gari porridge Eko Steamed packets of refined maize porridge Foofoo Yam flour porridge Fufu Pounded cassava or yam Gari Gelatinized cassava dough Koko Smooth gruel prepared from sorghum or millet flour cooked with wet lumps of flour to make it chewy Ogi Wet-refined maize flour porridge Tuwo Thick millet or Guinea com porridge (moulded) Yakayake Steamed cassava dough

94 Recipe Index

Snacks and Appetizers Cowpea and plantain pottage, 40 Akara (Kosai, Akla, or Accara) Cowpea flour soup, 44 (fried cowpea balls), 57 Cowpea garifoto, 76 Ayibli ( cowpeas and maize), 67 Cowpea stew with egg, 77 Cowpea cocktail tidbits, 82 Cowpeas with Guinea corn, 49 Cowpea strips, 91 Cowpeas with pumpkin, 48 Dan wake (cowpea dumplings), 41 Egwa hikaje ( cowpeas with pepper Eggs in cowpea blankets (Scotch eggs), 86 sauce), 50 Owowo (corn, cowpeas, and groundnuts), 66 Egwa ibala ( cowpeas with corn flour), 52 Roasted cowpeas, 68 Ekuru (steamed paste), 61 Epeza soup ( cowpea flour soup with and Light Meals spinach), 54 Akara (Kosai, Akla, or Accara) Ewa-ibeji (beans for twins), 4 7 (fried cowpea balls), 57 lkoko (steamed cakes with smoked fish Apapa (steamed cakes with bitter or shrimp), 64 pepper), 65 Nkontommere stew with cowpeas, 74 Awon (fried cowpea balls with okra), 58 Obo ekwa (smoked fish and cowpea Bobo (boiled cowpeas with gari), 37 soup), 53 Cowpea crepes, 87 Okra soup with cowpea leaves, 75 Cowpea cutlets, 88 Palm soup with cowpeas, 73 Cowpea garifoto, 76 Rice and cowpeas, 39 Cowpea salad, 89 Roasted corn and cowpea porridge, 38 Cowpea sandwich spread, 83 Ekuru (steamed paste), 61 Special Occasions Egwa ibala (cowpeas with corn flour), 52 Akara (Kosai, Akla, or Accara) (fried Ewa-ibeji (beans for twins), 47 cowpea balls), 57 lkoko (steamed cakes with smoked fish or Cowpea apiti, 84 shrimp), 64 Cowpea cocktail tidbits, 82 Jogi (steamed cakes with toasted melon Cowpea crepes, 87 seeds), 63 Cowpea croquettes, 85 Moin-moin (Ole-le, Alele, or Tabani) Cowpea cutlets, 88 (steamed cakes), 62 Cowpea kakro (fried cowpea and Seke-sin (Koose) (fried cowpea cakes with plantain cakes), 71 green onions) , 60 Cowpea ofam (baked cowpea and plantain Yakayake from cowpeas, 79 loaf), 72 Cowpea pie, 80 Soups and Stews Cowpea salad, 89 Charodokun blau (sorrel and cowpea Cowpea sandwich spread, 83 soup), 55 Cowpea tea cake, 81 Cowpea flour soup, 44 Cowpeas and saffron rice, 90 Cowpea soup with beef and okra, 45 Eggs in cowpea blankets (Scotch eggs), 86 Cowpea stew with egg, 77 Ekuru (steamed paste), 61 Cowpea stew with fried plantain, 46 Ewa-ibeji (beans for twins), 47 Epeza soup (cowpea flour soup with Frejon (cowpea and coconut custard), 43 spinach), 54 Kengbe (large akara balls fried in Gbegiri (smoked fish and cowpea soup), 42 palm oil), 59 Nkontommere stew with cowpeas, 74 Moin-moin (Ole-le, Alele, or Tabani) Obo egwa (smoked fish and cowpea (steamed cakes), 62 soup), 53 Okra soup with cowpea leaves, 75 Infants and Toddlers Palm soup with cowpeas, 73 Adayi (Leki or Paaf) (cowpea puree baby food), 69 Main Meals Cowpea sandwich spread, 83 Adalu ( cowpeas and maize), 51 Cowpea soup with beef and okra, 45 Aprapransa (palmnut and cowpea puree), 70 Cowpea stew with egg, 77 Awuje (cowpea soup with smoked fish), 56 Cowpea stew with fried plantain, 46 Ayikple with shrimp, 78 Ekuru (steamed paste), 61 Charodokun bl au (sorrel and cowpea Epeza soup ( cowpea flour soup with soup), 55 spinach), 54

95 Ewa-ibeji (beans for twins), 47 New Recipes Gbegiri (smoked fish and cowpea soup), 42 Cowpea cocktail tidbits, 82 Jogi (steamed cakes with toasted melon Cowpea crepes, 87 seeds), 63 Cowpea croquettes, 85 Moin-moin (Ole-le, Alele, or Tabani) Cowpea cutlets, 88 (steamed cakes), 62 Cowpea pie, 80 Nkontommere stew with cowpeas, 74 Cowpea salad, 89 Cowpea sandwich spread, 83 Obo egwa (smoked fish and cowpea Cowpea strips, 91 soup), 53 Cowpea tea cake, 81 Okra soup with cowpea leaves, 75 Cowpeas and saffron rice, 90 Palm soup with cowpeas, 73 Eggs in cowpea blankets (Scotch eggs), 86

96 Credits

Editor: Michael Graham Cover Design: Planned Graphics Limited Illustrations: Cover - W. Bell and B. Baeta, Accra, Ghana Frontispiece - IITA, Ibadan, Nigeria p. 14- CNRA, Bambey, Senegal p. 22, 23, 24, 25 - Food Research Institute, Accra, Ghana