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Key to cover picture I. Whole dry coconut 2. Ayibli (p. 67) 3. Cowpea salad (p. 89) 4. Rice and cowpeas (p. 39) 5. Moin-moin (p. 62) 6. Cowpea cutlets (p. 88) 7. Akara (p. 57) 8. Cowpea garifoto (p. 76) 9. Whole cowpeas JO. Ayikple with shrimp (p. 78) 11. Roasted cornmeal for Ayikple with shrimp 12. Cow pea stew with fried plantain (p. 46) 13. Cowpea stew with egg (p. 77) 14. Assorted vegetables and ingredients 15. Cowpeas and saffron rice (p. 90) ISBN: 0-88936-071-5 UDC:641.5 (083.1) © 1976 International Development Research Centre Postal Address: Box 8500, Ottawa, Canada KIG 3H9 Head Office: 60 Queen Street, Ottawa Microfiche Edition $1 Cowpeas Home preparation and use in West Africa ~ 1 . ' 'f • t I r•+"-t r t r 4 \ \ Coi.·pea •·aritties differ 11•idrly in colour and liU. IDRC·OSSe Cowpeas Home Preparation and Use in West Africa Florence E. Dovlo Caroline E. Williams Laraba Zoaka About the Authors f'lorenct• E. Oovlu M'' Dm I•' " 1n chargl' ol 1he c• lll,Umcr unit of lhe fouJ Kci.can:h I nl>liltlle. l'.O. Hm. 1\1.:?U. Accra. <1h;ma. .111<l hal> tc(;cnll v i.crvcJ ;1\ ;in F AO c1111i.11ha111 nu foo<l h;ihlll> 111 i\frica. She i~ well kno\\ 11 in Ghan;1 m. ;in ;u;11vc mcmhcr uf !he <.1luma liunl\.• Science A'>!>l1da11on. ;1n<l ii. the cJ1tor of the llmnt· S<'it.>11ti1r. \\ h1d1 '" the journal l)f the ")'ocmtlon. Caroline~ Ii:. \Villhuns M1' William~ Ji. a Scn1m Lecturer. Department of :\i,:ncul· tu ral b:onomici. ;rnJ Es.tell\\llln. U nivct'>llY ol I h:ill;m. lh>1Jan, Nigeria. She ohramcd her MSc from Cornell Un1v\!ni1y and rcccntl~ 'pent her \i1hb:itic.1I ~e:1r \\ ith her hu,h.md .111J children at !hi." l 'ni\ cr!.11)' 111 Wi!.Clllli.111. Mr, Wilham.. '' \\ell km1~ n for her punltc;ilmn' in thi~ fickl. Laraha Zoaka f\h l'.0:.11'.a j, the Home Ecllllllllli'I in charge of the le~! Kitchcn. Pill11 Flour Mill, M inislr)' ol' N:1tural Rc,l1urccs. l\.l;1iJuguri. ~<"llh Ea~1ern S1.11c. N1l:!cri:i. ~hich j., a Jull-\calc c·\pcnmc·111 fur tC\ling co111mcn:1al nullmg ot' IO..:•lllv !_!rown gr:1111, , ~h /,,>aka rn:iintain, ltllality C<111trl1I tc!.t!. uf the llouri. m h'i.::111 v prcferreJ :.t;1plc pl'llJm:h. Ncw recipe' \he develop~ .1ppcar 111 her ctilumn in lhc wcckl~· ncw,1x111er ul MaiJu~uri - - ,-f / Bhltir. Authors' Preface The Art of African Cookery has been an oral tradition for generations. This publication draws upon these traditions and skills of cooking and processing cowpeas (Vigna unguiculata) in Africa. The recipes, which are included, have been collected throughout West Africa and tested at the Food Research Institute in Accra and the University of Ibadan, Ibadan. New recipes are also included to show modernizing influences. To the Home Science and Agriculture teachers and extension workers we trust our work will give you new interest in finding out how cowpeas are used in your region and in promoting and developing the use of cowpeas in West Africa. Special thanks are due to the technical assistants at the Food Resesarch Institute, Ghana, who worked with Mrs Dovlo in the testing of the recipes: Mrs Matilda Randolph, Mrs. Florence Dake, Miss Josephine Abban-Mensah, Mrs Ellen Owusu, and Miss Irene Asantewah; and to Mrs Omotayo Ayayi, who tested the recipes with Mrs Williams in Ibadan. We thank the International Development Research Centre for publishing our work and Jean Steckle, Associate Director and Liaison Officer, Agriculture, Food and Nutrition Sciences Divisfon, IDRC, for her encouragement and assistance during its preparation. 5 Foreword If the population of Africa continues to increase at its present annual rate of 2.6% and the low income groups are to be provided with sufficient food to meet their protein requirements, efforts have to be made in several directions to improve the quality and quantity of food supplies. Grain legumes have a vital role to play in meeting these goals. Cowpeas, which are indigenous to Africa, particularly deserve attention. Encouraging results have already been achieved from research efforts to develop high-yielding varieties that respond to inputs such as pesticides and fertilizers and also to farming system conditions. This should help to make the cultivation of cowpeas more attractive to the agriculturalist. However, storage also deserves attention because cowpeas are very susceptible to diseases and pests, resulting in heavy losses and a marked deterioration of their nutritive value. By preventing such losses, especially in the rural areas, the supplemental value of cowpeas in the diet can be maintained. There are many traditional food preparations of cowpeas in Africa. These recipes have been collected and tested, and this publication will help to promote and develop wider use of this excellent source of vegetable protein. In addition to the recipes, this book also contains details on processing methods and equipment used in different regions of Africa. Efforts to develop good-quality products based on this widely accepted and versatile legume deserve special attention because they will help promote better diets and encourage the preparation of new processed foods. The authors are to be complimented on their efforts to develop new ways of handling this traditional crop. Cowpeas are widely preferred in Africa and meet the nutritional needs of the people, but they are too expensive for daily use because of hand processing and high storage costs. I hope that this work will stimulate further research to meet the changing pattern of consumer demand in urban areas. There is an urgent need to provide high-quality processed and semiprocessed food, especially for low income people, to maintain and improve their health and the quality of their life. T. S. B. Aribasala Director Agricultural Services Division Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations Rome, Italy 6 Contents About the authors 4 Authors' preface 5 Foreword 6 Background 9 Origin of cowpeas and use in West Africa 11 Economic and nutritional value of cowpeas 12 Cowpea foods for children 16 Cowpea cookery 17 Purchasing of cowpeas and household storage 19 Processes and equipment used for the preparation of cowpea dishes 20 Hints on frying cowpea dishes 25 Hints on steaming cowpea dishes 27 Hints on cooking unprocessed cowpeas 28 Use of cowpea flour in processed dishes 29 Commercial food sellers of cowpea products 30 Measurements 32 Recipes 35 References 92 Appendix I - Traditional cowpea cookery 93 Appendix II - Local and botanical names of ingredients used in recipes 94 Appendix III - Description of dishes mentioned as accompaniments to main cowpea dishes 94 Recipe index 95 7 ~ . .. ~ .... .: ..... ;. -""'1 ».:.-"\ ... .... .... ·. ... "· -.. \~~. .... ... ... ., ... :,. f're.flily lwrl't'.fft•d c·owpt•tis. Co11·pt't1.1 m"ll"t' t•arlu·r 1/u111 otlit·r <:rop.~ 1111d <'r//f bt• usNI im· mt'dia1ely i11 pltice of tlit' s111pl1! jood d11r1111; tltt• "htmgry :w,WJ11." 8 Background During the Zaria conference on Consumer (2) The vanet1es of cowpeas best suited Food Utilization in the Semi-Arid Tropics to West African recipes should be selected of Africa (IDRC 1973) it was recom­ for their processing qualities. Most recipes mended that IDRC support the development require some form of processing, including: of consumer preference studies and the soaking and long cooking; removal of the gathering of information concerning the seed coat; and subsequent grinding into paste preparation of cowpea products, including or flour. The difficulties encountered in pro­ household recipes, processing methods, and cessing using present methods and equipment. equipment used in different regions of Africa. particularly the high labour input, may be This information on cooking and utilization restrictive to future use. systems is considered important because it is interrelated with production, marketing, (3) The availability of cowpeas through­ and processing systems in addition to af­ out the year is restricted by storage problems. fecting the adoption of new technology in Severe weevil infestation and storage condi­ each of these aspects of crop development. tions affect the quality of cowpeas. In This is particularly important because the addition, the seasonal market between the cowpea crop (Vigna unguiculata) is primarily major producing semi-arid farming zones for local consumption and not for export.1 and consuming areas affects availability. The study of cowpeas was given careful The nature and extent of these problems thought, initially, by a small group that met require careful examination. Studies on in Maiduguri, Nigeria, in November 1973 consumer preference and utilization, farm to weigh the costs against the potential storage, and marketing were carried out, value of the information and its usefulness to and were reviewed at the second meeting the consumer. The potential development of held in Dakar, Senegal, June 1974. The cowpeas is considered extremely important: results are being published (Dovlo 1975; it already enjoys widespread use and accept­ Kuranchie 1975; Smirl and Zoaka 1974; ability in West Africa, has a high nutritional Williams 1974; and Williams and Yaciuk value, and is low cost. The possibility of 1975). The joint efforts compiled in this expanding present small-scale food-processing publication include recipes and· methods used industries using cowpeas also shows promise. for processing cowpeas from West Africa. This book relates knowledge concerning cur­ At this meeting, attention was given to rent practices and use by different ethnic specific problems that could be tackled by groups in different ecological zones and the institutions represented. describes criteria for preferred food products. ( 1) The universal acceptability of cow­ It is published to provide teachers and ex­ peas, their versatility of use, and the specific tension worke·rs with information on the attributes of cowpeas that make them so food use of cowpeas in West Africa, support­ versatile in soups, stews, and processed ed by scientific explanations, to test a new products, such as couscous, kosai, and alele, method of transmitting local cooking knowl­ all should be studied and further exploited edge between ethnic groups.
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