Butterflies of Hungary

Naturetrek Tour Report 9 - 16 June 2007

Hungarian Glider

Large Copper

Report compiled by Vic Tucker

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E:[email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Butterflies of Hungary

Tour Leaders: Vic Tucker (Naturetrek Leader & naturalist) Andras Schmidt (Local guide)

Participants: Gordon Morrison Jill Wilson Greg and Val Bond Peter and Gillian Dare Andy Callow Margaret Mills Martin and Julia Garwood Ted and Anne Ponting Louise Houghton Mark Fletcher

Day 1 Saturday 9th June

We departed Heathrow on time and problem free arriving at Budapest Ferihegy Airport as planned: met by our excellent Hungarian co-leader Andras Schmidt, also our driver who was to spend the first few days with us. He soon had our luggage stowed. The weather, a breezy but warm 28C, thundery cloud, but dry with bright sunny periods.

Seated in the spacious minibus, our first stop occurred on the airport exit road to watch some particularly easy to see Susliks on a patch of waste ground. These charming little ground squirrels are typical of lowland plains in Hungary but this was a good opportunity to observe them using the vehicle as a hide; they can be difficult to locate elsewhere.

Our only other stop en route to our first base in the further north-eastern corner of Hungary at Aggtelek, located within the huge national park, was a picnic stop overlooking the Matra Hills. Here, ‘tame’ Crested Larks and the first of many Red-backed Shrikes were seen. Nearby, a rather more impressive Imperial Eagle circled low overhead. Our eventual arrival at our hotel allowed time to freshen up following our early morning flight and onward travel, prior to a most welcome evening meal.

Hungary boasts some 170 species of butterfly as its national total. At the time of year and region we are visiting, over 100 species could conceivably be recorded, though a more realistic figure to aim at considering our length of stay (amongst other considerations) would hopefully be into higher double figures. Myself, aided by others, had undertaken much detailed advance planning for Naturetrek’s butterfly trip to this less well known country. Now it was all down to the all-important good weather and good group participation, together with a dash of good luck.

Hungary experienced an exceptionally mild winter this year, barely any snow, a warm early spring and hot early summer, in direct contrast to last year’s long cold, wet winter, cool, wet spring and much of the summer. Hence, many early-flying species emerged at least two or three weeks early this year and were now over, either for the

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

year, or between spring and autumn broods. Therefore, several expected species were not seen, but other later- flying unexpected species were to be encountered.

Day 2 Sunday 10th June

Weather: 26C sunny, by mid-afternoon thundery cloud developed. Finally, by late afternoon, a brief thunderstorm arrived. We spent the entire day within 1km of our hotel, partly to compensate for yesterday’s travelling – much of the time within the immediate environs of the hotel (only some 500m from the Slovak border) in a flower-filled meadow and warm south-facing Karst limestone banks, bursting with a wide range of colourful calcareous plants and butterflies! We also spent time in a narrow tree-lined valley, known to Hungarian lepidopterists as Hairstreak Valley. This venue proved very popular and productive - and not only for hairstreaks.

Today our group enjoyed the company of Andras’s charming wife Ilona; a very keen and knowledgeable butterfly enthusiast in her own right, accompanied by her young son, Richard, also keen to follow in the family footsteps! We were to benefit from their presence on other occasions during the week.

Our enthusiastic and enlarged group successfully identified many notable species during our first full day in the field including many Wood Whites, a localized rarity in the UK, Large, Scarce and Purple-shot Coppers, seven species of blue and nine species of fritillary along with many White Admirals and several of one of our target species, the similarly-marked Hungarian Glider.

Hairstreak Valley provided four species of Hairstreak and three Woodland Browns, one of Europe’s rarer butterflies – an exciting bonus. For the birders, good views of two large Warblers: Barred and Great Reed.

Our butterfly total for the day attained 45 species, almost Britain’s national total!

Day 3 Monday 11th June

Weather: Much as yesterday. For those interested birders in the group a pre-breakfast walk provided such exotic species as Golden Oriole, 2 Hoopoes, Middle-spotted Woodpecker, Wryneck and Hawfinches amid more plentiful Tree Sparrows – now rare in the UK – and Black Redstarts, the latter replaces ‘our’ Robin as a common bird of human habitation.

Habitats visited today were all within Aggtelek National Park, a mixture of higher hilly flower meadows and wooded stream valleys with open glades.

Picturesque Josvafo village is set at the entrance to a scenic valley. Here, hundreds of mud-puddling butterflies were joined by many others settled on cattle dung, all engrossed – imbibing vital salts and nutrients, a sight never really seen in the UK and allowing extremely close approach for our photographers - a beguiling mix of small blue and small fritillary species in the main.

2 © Naturetrek August 07

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

Several fast-flying Lesser Purple Emperors were identified: wings flashing purple, or equally frustrating, perched higher up on branches. Then two were discovered on droppings. Totally absorbed in feeding they finally abandoned all elusiveness! Even better, one was of the paler brown, the other of the blackish form!

High above the valley floor over a wonderful wild flower meadow, special butterflies included several Alcon Blues, a complex taxon, this population held by some to be Mountain Alcon Blue, though the Hungarian authority advises it is but a distinct form of Alcon Blue.

At Szogliget, a narrow wooded stream valley, where among many commoner species identified were Blue-spot Hairstreak and several Adonis and Large Blues – the latter also a distinct local form!

So ended a packed day, well pleased with our large haul of interesting species!

Day 4 Tuesday 12th June

Weather: Hot 32C fine, some patchy cloud. Changeover day to our new destination….an early start ensued after another full breakfast in order to reach our second destination unhurriedly, via a detour from the most direct route.

We met up with two young entomologists based at the local university, Peter and Tamas who showed us several different sites. At the village of Sajomercse, on a hill above it, which once grew walnuts and fruit trees but long since abandoned, we were hoping for several localized species, notably Chapman’s and Osiris Blues. Several of the former and none of the latter were found. Also seen was an Anomalous Blue, the anomaly being that neither sex contains any blue.

At a nearby site a bright orange Spotted Fritillary stood out, as did White Admiral and Hungarian Glider, both quite plentiful, as was Safflower Skipper.

Our final venue was a site chosen specifically for Common Glider, another important target species. Though most of the first brood was over, luckily we saw three very well. By now we were in the Bukk Hills National Park area, encompassing some 37.000 hectares of generally more wooded country. In fact, Bukk translates as Beech – an apt name indeed.

Day 5 Wednesday 13th June

Weather: 25C A similar weather pattern: clear during morning, but by mid-late pm the cloud rolling in with thundery conditions ensuing, becoming humid, showery and uncertain. An otherwise unusual system we seem locked into The early birders were treated to fine views of several nesting Collared Flycatchers and excellent views of Serins in particular. Our first post-breakfast halt just outside of the village of Nosvaj where we were staying was as much for the birders as the bug-ers! Timed to see raptors rising out of the hills, our wide vista vantage came up trumps with two Lesser Spotted Eagles, an Imperial Eagle and displaying Honey Buzzard, amid many Common Buzzards.

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

We then spent the entire day in the Hor Valley; containing rocky outcrops, shady woodland tracks interspersed with glades and hay meadows. Here, we were enthralled, indeed overwhelmed, by the sheer spectacle of literally thousands of butterflies, many of which were mud-puddling along sections of track. Hundreds of large fritillaries comprised mainly Silver-washed and included several variants such as a pristine black and grey valezina form.

Also High Browns and myriad Heath ‘type’ fritillaries, which also contained near-identical Nickerl’s and Assmann’s. However, unless individually examined, these confusion species cannot be specifically assigned. An exercise initially undertaken – but impossible to continue: these three close species soon became known to the group as nightmare fritillaries, a taxon completely new to science!!

Far more dramatic were superb views of several Lesser Purple and a Purple Emperor, the latter sitting on my finger! A Large Tortoiseshell also allowed good views and photographic opportunities. Other impressive butterflies were huge Woodland and White-banded Graylings. Less spectacular, but rare and localized was a Mountain Argus.

Excellent views of a singing Rock Bunting showing well its badger-striped head pattern proved added value, while the finale of this quite incredible day was a spectacular Fire Salamander, providing the ultimate ‘wow’ factor for many in our party. We returned exhilarated to our comfortable hotel, a very warm welcome and another sumptuous meal. What a day!

Day 6 Thursday 14th June

Weather: 30C. Mainly clear with a light cooling breeze. Much of the day was spent at Cserephalu, a large hay meadow enclosed by wooded hills – a very protected area.

Once again, the main attraction lay with large numbers of mud- and dung-puddling butterflies. Especially interesting was observing how the various families had split off into their own groups: clumps of blues, groups of small, then large fritillaries, whites in variety. The grasslands hosted Essex, Small and Large Skippers, more familiar to UK enthusiasts, as were Small Heath, Small Copper and Meadow Brown, but not so the Chestnut Heaths.

Upon the flower heads of a large stand of fetid elderberry were very fresh Purple-shot and brilliant orange Scarce Coppers, also the Maps, the dark summer brood with distinctive white stripes, seemingly imitating a tiny White Admiral. The carefully managed meadow was being grazed by a traditional herd of Long-horned Hungarian Grey Cattle, whilst the Bee-eater colony provided a further dash of dazzling colour.

En route ‘homeward’ we visited some other forest tracks and glades which provided, amongst others, many more previously seen species as well as Green-underside, Mazarine, and Chequered Blues, and Marbled Fritillary.

We ended a long day well pleased with our varied walks and sightings.

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

Day 7 Friday 15th June

Weather: Much as yesterday, once again thundery cloud rolling in during later pm – but no rain We paid a short return visit to Cserephalu by popular demand so the photographers could ensure better shots of the coppers in particular.

Now we journeyed to the northern outliers of the Great Plain, for a large part flat and intensively agricultural, a quite different landscape, visiting especially for butterflies which do not occur much, or at all, in the hills. Special birds also occur in this totally different habitat.

We were in luck as we spotted an overgrown weedy field containing flowering thistles, vetches etc. - all rich nectaring plants. Unfortunately a tractor had also just arrived to mow them all! A persuasive plea from Andras brought us an hour’s reprieve, while the considerate driver went off to mow another nearby field instead! Hurriedly we soon accounted for such species as Pale Clouded and Eastern Pale Clouded Yellows, previously seeing only Berger’s in the hills. Eastern Bath Whites followed, along with several attractive Queen of Spain Fritillaries and exotic Swallowtails. We left as agreed. At another patch of flowery waste ground we added Lesser Fiery Copper.

The birders were well pleased, seeing three well-grown Saker Falcon chicks on their platform nest-box erected high on an electricity pylon. Close views of a vivid Roller and several Red-footed Falcons were obtained, while Lesser Grey Shrikes complemented their ever-present Red-backed cousins. Here village-nesting White Storks with well-grown young were in plenty, as were Great White Egrets and Marsh Harriers.

On our return journey, we stopped off briefly at a large flower meadow at Tard. Amid more typical, commoner species were Pearly and Chestnut Heaths, Twin-spot Fritillary, several more Lesser Fiery Coppers and our final species for the trip – several Grizzled Skippers.

So ended another full, varied and eventful day.

Day 8 Saturday 16 June

Weather: Mainly clear and warm.

Only time for an early breakfast. Where does the time go?! Breakfast over and replete, it was time to bid a reluctant farewell to out excellent hosts, Barbara and family and begin to contemplate our highly successful, most enjoyable holiday as we journeyed back over the M3 to Budapest.

Our joint trip list tallied a very respectable 79 species, which includes 14 species of fritillary and 17 of blues! The vast majority were either seen or photographed by the group. Certainly contributing toward this successful outcome was the way in which the group quickly gelled into a friendly cooperative team effort. Well done everyone.

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

Species Lists Butterflies June Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 Swallowtail Papilio machaon 2 3 2+ 3 √ 2 Large White Pieris brassicae √ √ √ √ √ √ 3 Small White Artogeia rapae √ √ √ √ √ √ 4 Green-veined White Artogeia napi √ √ √ 10+ 5 Pale Clouded Yellow Colias hyale 10 6 Berger's Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis 10 √ √ 1 1 7 Eastern Pale Cl. Yellow Colias erate √ 8 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni 1 6 1 1 9 Wood White Leptidea sinapis √ √ √ √ √ √ 10 Sloe Hairstreak Satyrium acasiae √ 8 1 11 Ilex Hairstreak Satyrium ilicis 2 12 Blue-spot Hairstreak Satyrium spini 3 2 13 Black Hairstreak Satyrium pruni 4 1 1 14 Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi 10 1 3 15 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas 8 16 Large Copper Lycaena dispar 3 4 √ 3 17 Scarce Copper Lycaena vigaureae √ 8 3 3 6 1 18 Sooty Copper Lycaena tityrus 19 Purple-shot Copper Lycaena alciphron 4 2 7 6 20 Lesser Fiery Copper Lycaena thersamon 6 21 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus 1 4 5 √ √ 22 Short-tailed Blue Everes argiades 1 √ 5 6 1 10+ 23 Eastern Short-tailed Blue Everes decoloratus 24 Small Blue Cupido minimus 8 1 2 25 Green-underside Blue Glaucopsyche alexis √ 2 8 5 3 26 Alcon Blue Maculinea alcon 12 27 Large Blue Maculinea arion 5 28 Eastern Baton Blue Pseudophilotes vicrama 1 29 Chequered Blue Scolitantides orion 2 6 2 30 Silver-studded Blue Plebejus argus 1 √ 5 5 2 31 Reverdin's Blue Plebejus argyrognomon 4 √ √ 5 32 Chapman's Blue Agrodiaetus thersites 5 33 Anomalous Blue Agrodiaetus admetus 1 34 Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus √ 10 2 5 2 35 Adonis Blue Lysandra bellargus 2 4 36 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus u √ √ √ √ 37 Brown Argus Aricia agestic 6 38 Mountain Argus Aricia artaxerxes 1 1 39 Purple Emperor Apatura iris 1 40 Lesser Purple Emperor Apatura ilia 5 7 6 √ 1 41 White Admiral Limenitis camilla √ √ √ 4 3 42 Common Glider Neptis sappho 3 43 Hungarian Glider Neptis rivularis 6 1 10 1 44 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloras 2 2 45 Small Tortoiseshell Aglias urticae 1 1 1 46 Peacock Inachis io √ √ √ √ √ 47 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta 1 5 2 2 1

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 48 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui 2 2 3 √ 49 Comma Polygonum c-album 1 5 √ √ 1 50 Map Araschina levana 8 √ √ √ √ √ 51 Silver-washed Fritillary Argynnis paphia √ √ √ u u √ 52 High Brown Fritillary Argynnis adippe 10 10 6 2 53 Dark Green Fritillary Mesoacidalia aglaja 1 1 1 54 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia 2 3 10+ 55 Twin-spot Fritillary Brenthis hecate 3 2 56 Marbled Fritillary Brenthis daphne 2 3 9 2 57 Lesser Marbled Fritillary Brenthis ino √ 3 2 2 58 Pearl-bordered Fritillary Clossiana euphrosyne 3 1 59 Small Pearl-bord Fritillary Clossiana selene √ 1 60 Weaver's (Violet) Fritillary Clossiana dia 1 1 3 61 Spotted Fritillary Melitaea didyma 1 1 62 Heath Fritillary Mellicta athalia u √ √ u √ 63 Nickerl's Fritillary Mellicta aurelia 1 2 √ 64 Assmann's Fritillary Mellicta britomartis 1 1 3 65 Marbled White Melanargia galathea u √ √ √ √ u 66 Woodland Grayling Hipparchia fagi 1 1 1 67 Great Banded Grayling Kanetisa circe 1 1 3 10 68 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina u √ √ √ √ u 69 Ringlet Aphantopus hyperantus 1 2 √ 8 3 70 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus √ √ 10 √ u 71 Pearly Heath Coenonympha arcania u √ 6 3 6 1 72 Chestnut Heath Coenonympha glycerion u 10 √ 73 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeri 4 1 2 74 Woodland Brown Lopinga achine 3 5 75 Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus malvae 3 76 Safflower Skipper Pyrgus carthami √ √ 3 1 77 Essex Skipper Thymelicus lineola 5 1 √ √ √ 78 Small Skipper Thymelicus flavus 3 √ √ √ √ √ 79 Large Skipper Ochlodes venatus 4 3 2 6 10 Birds 1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 1 2 Great White Egret Egretta alba 2 8 3 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1 1 2 4 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 5 5 2 √ 5 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 1 6 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 2 6 5 √ 3 7 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 3 1 6 8 Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1 1 2 9 Goshawk Accipiter gentillis 1 10 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo √ 5 √ √ √ √ √ 11 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 3 2 12 Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca 2 1 3 13 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina 2 14 Saker Falcon Falco cherrug 4 15 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 1 16 Hobby Falco subbuteo 3

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 2 2 18 Red-footed Falcon Falco verspertinus 10 19 Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 2 h h 1 20 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix h h h h 4 21 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus h h 22 Coot Fulica atra 1 23 Stock Dove Columba oenas 3 24 Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 3 or 4 √ √ 1 5 25 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 26 Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur 3 h+1 3 √ 2 3 √ 27 Cuckoo Cuculus canorus h+3 2 3 3 4 28 Tawny Owl Strix Aluco 1 1 29 Swift Apus apus 10 5 5 2 10 1 30 Hoopoe Upupa epops 2 3 1 1 1 31 Bee-eater Merops apiaster 5 16 √ 32 Roller Coracias garrulus 2 33 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius 1 1 34 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1 1 1 35 Great-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 10 √ 1 1 3 1 36 Middle-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius h 4 1 1 √ 4 37 Lesser-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor 2 38 Wryneck Jynx torquilla 2h 2 1 4 1 39 Wood Lark Lullula arborea 2 1 40 Sky Lark Alauda arvensis 1 1h √ 1 √ 41 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 4 1 42 House Martin Delichon urbica u u u u u u √ 43 Swallow Hirundo rustica u u u u u u √ 44 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 1 2 1 45 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 2 √ √ √ √ √ √ 46 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 3 3 2 2 1 47 Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava flava 10 48 Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos u √ 2 3 3 10 49 Robin Erithacus rubecula 2 5 2 3 5 50 Stonechat Saxicola torquata 2 4 4 √ 2 3 √ 51 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra 3 52 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 1 5 √ √ √ √ √ 53 Blackbird Turdus merula √ √ 5 √ √ √ √ 54 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 55 River Warbler Locustella fluviatilis 5 1 56 Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 1 2 1 57 Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris 5 58 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus 3 5 2 2 59 Sedge warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 1 60 Garden warbler Sylvia borin 1 1 61 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 1 1 1 62 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 3 1 1 1 1 63 Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria 2 4 1 64 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla √ √ √ √ √ 65 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix 1 √ 4 1 1 66 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 2 2 2 1 3

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 67 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 2 68 Goldcrest Regulus regulus 2 69 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1 3 4 70 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis 4 4 2 6 71 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus √ √ 1 72 Marsh Tit Parus palustris 2 1 1 73 Coal Tit Parus ater 2 1 1 74 Great Tit Parus major √ √ √ √ √ 4 75 Blue Tit Parus caeruleus 3 √ 3 √ √ 76 Nuthatch Sitta europaea 5 2 6 √ 6 77 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 1 2 1 78 Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor 1 3 79 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio u √ u u √ √ 80 Jay Garrulus glandarius 1 √ √ √ √ 1 81 Magpie Pica pica √ 1 1 82 Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix 6 2 √ 83 Raven Corvus corax 2 12 2 1 84 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus √ √ 6 1 1 5 85 Starling Sturnus vulgaris √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 86 House Sparrow Passer domesticus √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 87 Tree Sparrow Passer montanus √ √ √ √ √ √ 88 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs √ √ √ √ √ √ 89 Serin Serinus serinus 1 2 √ √ 3 90 Linnet Acanthis cannabina 2 1 5 1 5 91 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 1 2 √ √ 4 √ 92 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris 1 √ √ √ √ 3 93 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes √ √ √ 8 2 94 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra 1 1 4 3 2 √ 95 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella √ √ 5 √ 6 5 96 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 2 1 97 Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus 1 Dragonflies 1 Blue-tailed Damselfly Ischnura elegans 2 Small Red-eyed Damselfly Erythromma viridulum 3 Migrant Hawker Aeshna mixta 4 White-tailed Skimmer Orthetrum albistylum 5 Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombei 6 Ruddy Darter Sympetrum sanguineum 7 Common Darter Sympetrum striolatum Mammals Red Fox Roe Deer European Suslik Brown Hare Amphibian & reptiles Edible Frog Grass Snake Marsh Frog Sand Lizard Green Tree Frog Green Lizard Agile Frog European Pond Turtle Fire-bellied Toad Green Toad Others Freshwater Clam Great Diving Beetle