Bora BoraBora 156 © LonelyPlanetPublications (guesthouses), often situated onsomeofthebestreal estate, inwhichtorest yourhead. an outriggercanoe. Borahasplentyofquaintfamily Ifmoney’sanyobject, over affairandbreakfast from isserved turquoiseseas,dinnerisamulticoursecandle-lit ofplaceswhereto pamperyourevery theglass-floored whim –thekinds bungalowshover entrance fee. resorts toseriouslyindulge,Borahasplentyoffive-star Ifyou’re looking island JamesCookbaptisedasthe‘pearlofPacific’ every pennyofthe isworth purchasing,thatit’soverpriced,worth overdeveloped andoverhyped. argue thatthe Others more here thananywhere elseinFrench Polynesia,andsomesaythisisoneparadisenot pleasures: butyou’llhave theheftypriceattached. todecideifthey’re worth naughty exotica by theplaneloadwithapotent potionofostentatiously slightly hip,oh-so-romantic, most famousdream destinations,Boralures honeymooners,heiresses andmovie stars againstcrystal-clearaqualagoons.of jaggedvolcanicpeaksjuxtaposed Oneoftheworld’s only foritslushbeautybutalsohedonisticdecadence,thisislandisafairy-talecreation the luxurytrappingsyouknowdon’tneedbutjustcan’tlive without.Legendary not Bora willseduceyouintobuyingtheCadillac ofparadises,theoneloadedwithall

HIGHLIGHTS There’s nodoubtBoraisoverpriced andbasicaccommodationcost –bothtop-end

POPULATION: 5757 on asecluded,sandy aboatandspendingdaystrandedHiring Bora attheswish dance performance heavenly cocktailsduringatraditional by feasting ontraditionalfoodthensipping and visuallystimulatingevening adventure onaromantic,gastronomic Embarking the tripacross orjet-skiing on asnorkelling Ogling thefish,coralandtranslucentwater idyllic Admiring thelushscenery,lagoonand luxury resorts andmostdreamythe world’sswankiest Moana BeachBora royaltyatthe Living like lagoon motu ( p165) (p161) (islet)ona . Awickedseductress, thisislandtempts withaPandora’s box ofguilty

motu boat tour Intercontinental 15) oe of one ( p165), (p170) Hotel ( p162)

AREA:47 SQ KM Bora Hotel Bora Moana Beach Intercontinental Lagoon Bora pensions très cher

is dependent ontourism butisatriskof island. It’s afragilesituation: theisland larly intheremote northernparts of the more rubbishthanyou’dhope to,particu- andsmell Butyou’llstillsee mon sight. children are oncleaningbees afairlycom- up Borainrecent years, and local is irreversible. aqua onceagain,butthedamage tothe coral pass intoitslagoon.Thewater isaspark ling particularly vulnerable asithasonlyone entire Pacific wasaffected, Borawas like whispers the Chinese in2001.Although bleached coral(theresult of ElNiño)spread in place. island duringthewar;allbutoneare still naval cannonswere aroundthe installed massive national airport.Eight seven-inch in 1961,thiswasFrench Polynesia’sinter- days. UntilFaa’a airportonTahiti opened remindermost useful) of frenetic those runway onMotuMute istheclearest (and were onBoraBora. stationed Todaythe the islandand,atitspeak,upto6000men to mid-1946OperationBobcattransformed of Pearl Harbor in1941.Fromearly1942 here,tablished prompted bythebombing in 1888. hiti in1842)untiltheislandwasannexed a French protectorate over (established Ta- for supreme powerover , butresisted Bora supported Pomare inhispush ontheislandin1820. wasestablished base and aLondonMissionary Society(LMS) on hisfirst voyage toFrench Polynesia, ors of Boraattheirmostexpansive. managedOnly toresist thewarri- ally defensive populationof fiercewarriors. Bora Bora,landpressures created an unusu- Bora. toruleBora hissonOhatatama sent Ra’iatea, myth, thelegendary Hiro,thefirst kingof islandafter Accordingtolocal tant Ra’iatea. that thismayhave themostimpor- been translatesroughly as‘first-born’, indicating gan islandof name. thesame ‘BoraBora’ fromtheTon- byinhabitants was colonised Vava’u, perhapssupportingthetheorythatit In ancienttimes,theislandwasknownas HISTORY www.lonelyplanet.com There toclean ageneral hasbeen effort Reports of adiscoloured lagoon and During wases- WWII aUSsupplybase James Borain1769 Cooksighted Due totheshortage of groundon level Bora visitor information centre number of shops,hotels andsupermarkets. ata the island;phonecardscanbebought can contact can contact andhasloadsofpamphlets andotherinfo. h sanaly &DrBoutry Post office Pharmacy L’Appetisserie medical centre idea toinquire first atyourhotel. There’s a can exchange theATM. moneyoruse Socredoand Banque inVaitape, where you There are branches of dePolynésie Banque INFORMATION ern extremity of theouter reef edge. The airportisonMotuMute atthenorth- is atFarepiti, Vaitape between and Faanui. for tourists.Thequayinter-island ships main town,butMatira Pointistheanchor is theonlypassintolagoon. Teavanui Pass onBoraBora’swestern side lets) edgingmostof theouter reef. The encircles theisland,withsandy runs aroundthecoast. width atthewidestpoint.A32kmroad from northtosouthandisabout4kmin Mt Otemanu (727m). to MtHue(619m),Pahia (661m)and rising mountainous, Bora isspectacularly Iti are fragmentsof theoldcrater rim.Bora land, andMotuToopua form Povai atthesoutherntipof Bay theis- hasbroken intothecratertraced; thesea to rim of theancientvolcanocanbeeasily around three orfourmillionyears ago. The Bora wascreated byvolcanicactivity ORIENTATION part of theworld. managed, thisisatrulybeautiful because actcanbe hopethejuggling threat. Let’s drawcard –marinelife under –isseriously timeitsmajorment, whileatthesame deterring visitors of because overdevelop- 2500 CFP)Internetaccess inVaitape. Vaitape, justnearLe Cocotierrestaurant. 8am-noon&5-6pm Sat,9-9.30amSun)In Mon-Fri, There are publictelephones allaround If you need medical assistance, it’sagood medicalassistance, If youneed Dusty Vaitape, southof thepass,is A wide,sheltered andnavigable lagoon The mainislandstretches for about9km 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Theofficeis on thequayat 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) ( ( % % ( 67 7030; Dr Juen

% 67 7074)In themiddleofVaitape. ( % BORA BORA •• History BORA ••History

67 7888;Centre Le perhr Pahia; ( 67 7077) %

h ( 67 7795) % 8am-noon &3.30-6pm inVaitape, oryou 67 7062) . ( or % motu 67 7636; Dr Rous-

(is- 157 BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA Br Bora Bora 158 0 2 km 0 1 mile BORA BORA BORA

A B C Muri Muri D E F ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ( La Vallée Blanche) Vaitape INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 59 Banque de Polynésie & Alain Gerbault Monument...10 A2 ATM...... 1 A2 Aqua Safari...... (see 48) 1 Motu 1 8 Pitoraverahi Banque de Tahiti & ATM...2 A2 Bora Bora Nui...... (see 33) Motu Airport Banque Socredo...... 3 A2 Bora Bora Parasail...... 11 B5 58 Mute Bora Bora Visitors Information Bora Diving Centre...... 12 D6 Vaitoto Pt Centre...... 4 A2 Diveasy...... 13 B6 6 Gendarmerie (Police Jessie L...... (see 41) Airport Motu Station)...... 5 A2 Lagoonarium...... 14 F4 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄCentre Le 60 West Point Quay Motu Paahi Pahia Motu L’Appetisserie...... 6 A1 Marae Aehua-tai...... 15 E4 44 Medical Centre...... 7 A2 Marae Fare-Opu...... 16 C3 Vaitape Pharmacy...... 8 A1 Marae Marotetini...... 17 C4 Post Office...... 9 A3 Marae Taharuu...... 18 E4 7 Marae Taianapa...... 19 C4 Motu Moute 56 Matira Jet Tours...... 20 A6 2 4 2 3 Matira Tours Excursions.....(see 35) 10 5 Moana Adventure Tours..... 21 D6 73 Musée de la Marine...... 22 D3 Motu Ite 2 Nemo World...... (see 45) ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ74 23 Ocean Life Experience...... 23 A2 1 Taihi Pt Quay Otemanu Tours...... 24 C4 9 Ranch Reva Reva...... 25 F7 Papua Pt Submarine Dock...... 26 C3 Vairupe Bay Hitiaa 0 200m 72 Motu Bay Teremoana Tours...... (see 34) 0 0.1 miles 76 Tupuna Mountain Safari...... 27 D6 TV Tower...... 28 D6 Paoeo Pt Paorie G Bay Tereia Pt Outurau Pt ὄὄ3 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ3 Motu Popotei 22 Taimoo Ridge Puhia Pt 33 26 16 Bay

Faanui Bay Outuareho Pt

Airport Shuttle Ferry 75 G Coastal Defence Guns Farepiti Pt Faanui Haamaire www.lonelyplanet.com Bay Motu G ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄAhuna 17 Mtὄὄ18 Mataihua (314m) 15 Inter-Island Ships G Fitiiu Pt G Vairau Teavanui Pass Bay 4 Manta Reef 4 19 Pahua Pt 24 Mt Hue 43 (619m) 50 14 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ 66 B o r a B o rὄὄ a Bora www.lonelyplanet.com ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄOutupiti Pt Mt Pahia Mt Mt Pahonu See Vaitape Vaitape (661m) Otemanu Anau (139m) 48 Motu Enlargement (727m) Tapu 30 65 Nunue 45 Moutara 54 78 11 5 67 63 5 61 Tiipoto Pererau Pt 62 G 42 29 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ57 Motu ὄὄὄ Vaiotaha Pt 38 Mohio Pt 40 77 Taahana Bay Povai Bay 31 Mt Mauaohunoa 71 (148m) 69 Motu Eagle Channel 46 Piti Aau Rofau Aponapu 47 53 Belvédère Bay Tehou (Lookout) Bay 64 52 Bay 70 68 32 21 51 ὄὄὄ6 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ41 Manta Pass ὄὄὄPaoaoa Pt 6 55 36 37 34 Motu Faaopore 0 200m Toopuaiti 27 Mt Pahonu Bay (139m) 0 0.1 miles 20 28 13 12 Matira Pt 35 Raititi Pt 39 Taahana Matira Point Bay Rofau Bay 49 ὅὅὅ Motu 25 ὄὄὄSLEEPINGὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄPension Maeva – Chez Restaurant Matira...... (see 40) ὄὄὄPiti Uu Uta Motu Blue Lagoon...... 29 D5 Rosine Masson...... 47 A6 Snack La Bounty...... 61 A5 Piti Uu Tai Fareone Pt ὅὅὅ Bora Bora Lagoon Resort..30 C5 Sofitel Marara...... 48 B5 Snack Matira...... 62 A5 Tupitipiti Pt Bora Bora Lagoonarium....31 E6 Sofitel Motu...... 49 D7 Snack Patoti...... 63 A5 7 See Matira Point 7 Bora Bora Nui Resort & Topdive Bora Bora...... 50 C4 Snack Restaurant Enlargement Aquarium Spa...... 32 C6 Village Pauline...... 51 D6 Moi Here...... 64 A6 Bora Bora Pearl Beach Village Temanuata...... 52 A6 Tiare Market...... 65 A5 Resort...... 33 B3 Tipanié...... (see 43) Coral Garden Chez Nono...... 34 A6 EATING Chez Robertὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ & Tina...... 35 B6 Bamboo House Restaurant..53 D6 DRINKING Chez Rosina...... 36 D6 Ben’s Place...... 54 A5 Le Recife Discotheque..... 66 C4 Club Med...... 37 D6 Bloody Mary’s...... 55 D6 Eden Beach...... 38 F5 Bora Kaina Hut...... (see 51) SHOPPING South Point Tupitipiti Hotel Bora Bora...... 39 D6 Chez Richard...... 56 A2 Atelier Despert...... 67 A5

Hotel Matira...... 40 A5 Fare Tama’a Maitai Boutique Gauguin...... 68 D6 TRANSPORT BORA Intercontinental Moana Restaurant...... 57 A5 Centre Artisanal de ...... 73 A2 Beach Bora Bora...... 41 A6 Le Cocotier...... 58 A1 Bora Bora...... (see 4) Europcar...... 74 A2 8 Le Maitai Polynesia...... 42 A5 Le Panda d’Or...... 59 A1 Galerie Alain et Linda...... 69 D6 Fare Piti Rent-a-Car...... (see 42) 8 Le Méridien Bora Bora...... 43 F4 Magasin Chin Lee...... 60 A2 Jardin Gauguin...... (see 68) Farepiti Quay...... 75 C4 S O U T H P A C I F I C Le Paradis...... ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ44 C2 Matira Terrace...... (see 39) Matira Pearls...... 70 A6 Fredo & Fils Rent-a-Car...76 A3 Novotel Bora Bora Hotel Noa Noa...... (see 41) OPEC...... (see 68) Heli-Inter Polynésie...... (see 73) O C E A N

& Beach Resort...... 45 B5 Otemanu...... (see 30) Salon de Tatouages...... 71 A6 Miki Miki Jet Ski...... 77 A5 159

Pension Anau...... 46 E6 Restaurant Fare Manuia...(see 52) Tamanu Galerie d’Art...... 72 A3 René & Maguy...... 78 A5 BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA some shops. Furthersouth,the and Restaurant House theBamboo passes theoverlandBeyond road,thecoastroad Point&Around Matira shop), andiswellworththeeffort. path commencesbehindthetruck work- fromthe eastern side, the this way(starting takes only20minutes tocrossthe island of theprofiles of Taha’a It andRa’iatea. toaskaround)andoffersneed great views the island(it’seasytomiss,soyoumay roadthatshortcutsacross a smallunsealed 100m before GalerieAlainetLindathere’s aroundPovai Around Bay. road curves Past southof thelasthouses Vaitape the Road Overland becomes altogether with sleepy, Busy duringtheday,bylate afternoon it just get afeel forthewaylocalsreally live. take care of bankingandInternet and needs isagreattape placetodoabitof shopping, to spendyourentire holidayhere butVai- for tourists.Wedoubtyou’llfeel compelled feel asifitwerethat doesn’t builtexclusively town, butit’stheonlyplaceonBora It’snotthemostevocative main settlement. the MotuMute airportto Vaitape, theisland’s If arrivingbyairyou’llbetransported from Vaitape see settlements, p163 and p166 . around theisland. inVaitape,tour starts goinganticlockwise can alsobeeasilyhired. Thefollowing scootersthe eastcoast),though andcars bikes upthehillaroundFitiiuPointon mayfindthemselves walkingtheir mortals great forachallenging day’sbike ride(mere island andrarely above rises It’s level. sea shoreline almost allthewayaround Bora Bora’s32kmcoastroadhugsthe SIGHTS 160 lar restaurants, is alsonearby. Mary’s ( p167 ), oneof offers agoodviewover thelagoon. Bloody (take justafter theturn-off ChezRosina) Bora inthe1930s. atVaitapestands lived quay.Gerbault on a nonstopsolocrossingof the Atlantic, 1923 wasthefirst yachtsman toachieve (boules) For places to stay andeatinthefollowing For placestostay A BORA••Sights monument players centre taking stage. to whoin Alain Gerbault, the island’s mostpopu- pétanque TV tower TV

Tuamotus in1792. ish ship theboxedthe beach (see text, p36 ). Hawaiki on racefinishesright Nuicanoe here isfabulous.Thefinallegof theannual out toMatira Point;thepublicbeach along tle Bora Resort.Thehotel andafew lit- the classyIntercontinentalMoanaBeach minutes; agreat waytostretch yourlegs. defence guns runs upthehilltoabattery of of theHotel Matira propertyawalkingtrail Fromtheeasternand placestostay. edge are boutiques, several outtoMatirasweeps Point.Alongtheroad Beach ofmarks thestart easily accessible Anau, aratherstrung-outaffair. the coastjustbefore thefishingvillage of ClubMed,passes thendrops backdownto ridge above thebay.Theroadclimbsasit and itsown ClubMed,passes which hasitsownbay and hotels. Theroadroundsthepointand collection of busylittleshops,restaurants From Matira a Point,thecoastroadpasses PointtoAnau Matira the bayfrom the water’s edge. There are goodviewsacross offandrunsdownto peels toclimb,atrack find. Justastheroadstarts ing sites, but theyalltake to abitof effort lagoon, Fitiiu Pointfeatures interest- several A fingerlike peninsulaextending outintothe Fitiiu Point visit views outover thelagoonto the gunsite. Fromthesite there are fine emerges onthetop of theridge justbefore fore thedumpasteep pathrunsuphilland a sceniclagoon-sidegarbage dump! Justbe- trail. Thetrackterminates at,of allthings, body isaroundaskpermission totake the atthesharpbendinroad. Ifany- house, trail alongtheridge behindthefirst starts with MtOtemanu inthebackground. and twomore The pointtakes itsnamefromtheBrit- On theeastern sideof Matira Pointis Point Luxurious Hotel BoraatRaititi Backtrack alongtheridge-topBacktrack footpathto Further upthehillthere’s anatural pensions Marae Taharuu Marae , Bora Bora’sonlyreal beach, which Mathilda . Thehike takes onlyabout10 are downtheroadthatruns belvédère WWII coastalguns marae , anatural rockpinnacle. thatwaswrecked inthe (traditionaltemple), (lookout)atopthe www.lonelyplanet.com snacks Marae Aehua-tai Marae . The walking . Thewalking , restaurants WWII coastal motu marae . Matira Matira , on , on

The small,private as itrounds Haamaire and Taimoo Bays. populated stretchthe mostlightly of coast The roadbeyondFitiiuPointtraverses Bay&TaimooHaamaire Bay www.lonelyplanet.com an appallingly littered stretch of beach. This Marotetini Marae Faanui Bay. WWII andisat the southwestern endof Farepiti quay, Inter-island shipsdockatthe ratherdrab which wasbuilt during Point Farepiti PointtoPahua another concrete watermarksthepositionof tank of theabandonedHyatthotel project. village of Faanui. Nearbyistheforlornsite potei Ridge andontoa atopPo- up toanoldWWIIradarstation andoftenpoint, asteep muddytrackclimbs Point is populated.sparsely Justafter the The northcoastof theislandaround Taihi Taihi PointtoFarepiti Point likeard, soyoumight tocallahead. you. Theopeninghours are fairlyhaphaz- Euro pean explorers, thisisthe placefor modelsof theshipsofin seeing theearly Darasse.tect Bertrand Ifyouare interested collection of modelships madebyarchi- Museum; Museum; the Hinano Beer andCoca-Coladepot. the HinanoBeer the sideofmountain theroad.You’ve overshot edge of the justoff acoconutplantation, Taianapa Marae it dropsdowntheothersidetoVairau Bay. orates into a muddymorass,buteventually bear leftateach fork.Thetrackoften de ter i- climbs uptowardstheridge; continueto forkto theleft.Theroad take theunsealed bendsright, inland. Where road thesealed church duringWWII.Fromthepicturesquebase ous othersites intheSocietyIslands. petroglyphs slabs are clearlymarked withtheturtle roadside andthewater’s edge. Twoof the the hillbehindtank. clamber foracoupleof up minutes straight A hundred metres alongtheshoreline is At theendof Tereia Point,arectangular Returning to the coastal road, you’ll see road,you’llsee Returning tothecoastal Faanui wasthesite of Bay theUSmilitary Fare-Opu Marae marae attheheadof thebay a roadruns % coastal gun byabout100mifyouget asfar seen incised instonesatnumer- incised seen 67 7524;admissionbydonation) , onprivate propertyonthe , which isunfortunately on is squeezed between the between issqueezed Musée delaMarine Musée . There’s nopath;just lookout above the hasa

(Marine (Marine well marked, soaskaroundifyouget lost. lagoon, overlook thepoint.Theroute isnot here toguardtheshippingroute intothe Bora BlueNui of Teavanui Pass, ToopuaandIti. which includetheexciting Tapu, and,south Check out p59 aboutdive fordetails sites, around 6500CFP;introdives cost7000CFP. dives at inBorastart Single-tank reef. lagoon,oroutsidethelow watersinthe inquitelife shal- abound,andcanbeseen ably Bora Bora’smostpopularactivity isprob- Activities Water bar oramealattherestaurant first. the free shuttleboatiftheybuyadrinkatthe motu, plore without permission.Ifahotel ownsthe hotels: don’t treat thelandasyours toex- families orhave bytheluxury bought been belongtolocal littleislandparadises these torememberidyllic, butit’simportant that the grassyarea awayfromthebeach). footballs (don’tworry,theytend tostick shady areas andplentyof localkidsand their resort. There are publictoilets,showers, Inter Bora MoanaBeach continental of thebestspotsalonghere isopposite the or headtothebeach atMatira Point.One season, inthehigh even derfully secluded get droppedoffona paddling inthewarmwater, youcaneither and pointing. Foradayworkingonyourtan beach are disap- fairly narrowandslightly not itsstrongpoint.Even thebestbitsof and abrochure-esque appeal,beaches are notwishing togetthose theirfeet wet. interior for portunities inthemountainous therelagoon, although are alsoplentyof op- Bora Bora’s activities focusonitswonderful ACTIVITIES tropical air. Two remains of theoldClubMed, rottinginthe The roadroundsthepointandarrives atthe silhouetted againsttheskyline. can beseen Pahua Point,oneof theWWIIdefence guns was restored in1968. royal is thesecond on MotuTevairoa. Based inthe groundsoftheBora Pearl BeachResort Many of the Borahasclear,aquawaterAlthough Along theroadfromFarepiti Pointto diving visitors are usuallywelcometoboard . Sharks, raysandothermarine BORA BORA •• Activities BORA ••Activities motu ( coastal defenceguns % marae 67 7907;www.bluenui.com) remain untouched and motu ontheislandand thatfeels won- , placed

161 BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA a swimmingpoolfordivetraining. Free transfers. in theaccommodationcomplexofsamename. There’s ern edgeofVaitape, andveryhi-techcentre it’saluxurious www.boradive.com; trips 6000 CFP) www.boradive.com; trips on yourwalk. body. Anexpertdiver willaccompanyyou feed thetropicalfishswirlingaroundyour 4m, check outcrazycoloured coraland tours inwhich youdescendtodepths of offers four trips daily. offers fourtrips Point,thecentre toHotelBoraatMatira next Right the paths are notoriously difficult to follow. the paths are tofollow. notoriously difficult Bora, but aguideisrecommended because There are some beautiful walksonBora Hiking Tours two-hour jet-ski tours runby For anadrenalin rush, youcan’tbeatthe JET-SKIING pensions and thecurrents are ideal.Many hotels and Hotel Bora Bora,where fishingisbanned The snorkelling isparticularlygoodaround splashing aroundvery appealingandsafe. The water isshallowandwarmmakes onBoraBora. prominently duringyourstay Swimming Topdive Nemo World Diveasy Bora DivingCentre 162 spaceman divingsuit. bedina strolling alongthebottomof thesea two people. Tripsdepartat10amand2pm. terrain vehicle (ATV) tours are US$180for pace. Two-hourcombinationjet-skiand all- morebefore of seeing thelagoonataslower motu, include aheart-racingrideto secluded people) get goodreviews fromtravellers and two; ittakes youup275mintheair. 10,000 CFPperperson or17,000CFPfor or two-person parasai centre are free. the NovotelBoraBora. Transfers fromhotelstothedive commentary onwhatyouare seeing. munication systemthatallowsthedivemastertoprovidea master. thediveyouare equippedwithacom- During two people(8000CFPperperson),accompaniedbyadive Point, itoffers customiseddivesforone(12,000CFP)or Bora Parasail For somethingcompletely different, try BORA••Activities ( where youchill outforafew minutes % ( ( % % 67 6273) provide free masksandflippers. and ( 79 22 55; [email protected]) At Matira AtMatira 79 2255;[email protected]) 60 5050;www.topdive.com)Onthenorth- % snorkelling 67 63 00; [email protected]) At 67 6300;[email protected]) . The trips (US$150 for two . Thetrips(US$150fortwo ( %

( 67 7184;www.boradive.com) % Aqua Safari ling trips, ch ling trips, willprobablyfeature 67 7034) runs40-minute offers solo offers

( % Matira Jet Jet Matira 67 7184; arging Lagoon Tours Reva on theedge of abluelagoon,visit orcantering acrossthesand by moonlight If you’ve fancied ever riding alongthebeach Horse-Riding the summitof The island’sbest-loved hike takes youto snorkelling stopsalongwitha lagoon. Shark feeding, ray swimming and some of themostbeautifulspotson andfull-daytours thattake youto half- region’s historyand culture. from Choose tive, butyou’llalsolearnabitaboutthe theislandfromadifferent perspec-to see tripsallowyou Notonlydothese your stay. mend youtryoneatsomepointduring the Boraexperience,andwerecom- Boat tours have partof become astandard ing are recommended. excursion).extra for thesame Thefollow- onasmuch as40% placescantack as these probably better tobookatour onyourown if you’rethough atafancyhotel staying it’s offer lagoon toursguesthouses these (al- as theregular operators, manyhotels and typically runfrom9amto4pm. As well trips and9000CFPfordaytrips, which a hatandsunscreen. waterproof anunderwater sandals, camera, cue lunch are onmosttours. standard Bring fers; English-speakingguidesare available. at8pm.Pricesincludehotelnightly trans- ride(8500CFP)thatdeparts moonlight the company’sbestadventure isits2½-hour A typicalbeach ridelastsaboutanhour,but which hasgreat andTaha’a. views of Ra’iatea ofall levels experienceonMotuPiti Aau, The placeoffers horseback excursions for prices vary. Stephane Duwa offers allsortsof trips; Mountain Guide encompassing alltheSocietyIslands. rewarded panoramicview withaspectacular willberichly ficult attimes,butyourefforts edges of grey Theclimbisdif- craggy cliffs. nut’ tree) beautiful orchards, En route to thesummityou’llpassthrough trip excursion, thetrailbeginsinVaitape. Astrenuousfamous mountain. 6kmround- It will cost about 6000 CFP for half-day It willcostabout6000CFPforhalf-day To arrange aguide,contact

( % 67 63 63; trips from4000CFP; 67 6363;trips

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67 5640;[email protected]) mape Pahia www.lonelyplanet.com , BoraBora’smost (Polynesian ‘chest- motu h Trek’in Bora Trek’in Ranch Reva Reva Ranch 8am-4pm) barbe- . . [email protected]) &Tina.Robert runs deep-sea fishingtrips. runs deep-sea day/24 hours. Italso CFP perhalf-day/full vana Bora take placeinold-fashioned two-hour tripsare that fun,bumpyaffairs similar tours forpeoplewithlesstime. The 22; IntercontinentalMoanaBeachBora) doesnothaveanoffice). sunset cruises(Taaroa Ocean LifeExperience Tours Moana Adventure ToursExcursions Matira www.lonelyplanet.com flight with flight thelagoonfromairona15-minute See Tours Helicopter for fourhours foruptofourpeople. fishing trips;countonatleast36,000 CFP Tours Adventure Taravana Fishing &Deep-Sea Catamaran 6500 CFP) tour. tracks,joina and tear upoldmilitary 4WD To get afeel forBoraBora’swildinterior 4WD Trips Bora Submarine world, tryasemisubmersible-vessel tour. would like toexplore BoraBora’sunder water If you’re not much of aswimmerbutstill Tours Underwater Teremoana Tours Taaroa tours.com) your hotel; neithercompanyhasanoffice. depths of 40m.Pricesincludetransfers from sixpeopleanddescendto vessels seat sealed goon’s outer edges, justoutsidethepass.The both offer hour-long voyages alongthela- Coral Garden, MtOtemanu, Faanui Bay, goon that takes youover Matira Point, the person andinclude aquickloopof thela- hiti inVaitape. cost15,000CFPper Flights frequently totaste thenative fruits. land’s floraandfauna,you’llstop tive, providing interesting titbitsontheis- archaeological areas. Guidesare inform a- can WWIIsites alongwithlocallyimportant cific.com; adult/child50,000/30,000 CFP) Otemanu Tours Otemanu for90,000/120,000/220,000 catamaran

Tupuna MountainSafari ( % runs half-day tripsthatvisitAmeri- runshalf-day

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% ( 67 6155)Lagoontoursbycatamaran;alsodoes % Héli-Inter Polynésie Héli-Inter 67 7779) , which isnextdoortoAir Ta- 67 6192;adult/child50,000/30,000CFP) ( % ( ( % % 67 6141) hires outthe15.3m ( 67 7138)BasedatChezNono. 67 7049;tours2500CFP) ( % % ( ( % % 74 5111) 67 6400;www.spiritofpa 67 7097)BasedatChez 67 6141;www.moana organise deep-sea organise deep-sea

le trucks Jessie L Jessie ( ( % % and 67 6259;helico 67 7506;trips and Aquascope

( % . offers Moana Tara- 67 75

7500-13,000 CFP) camp sitesperperson2500CFP,dm3500 bungalows garden/over-water bungalows41,000/50,000CFP; well inadvance,asTopdive fillsquickly. to compensate foranylackof Book sand. facing swimmingpoolisfabulousenough floors. There’s nobeach, butthelagoon- ceilings, palm-thatched roofs andmarble bungalowsfeaturethe standout cathedral cially todivers. Amidlush communalareas, atthissmallresort catering espe- service ised Travellers rave aboutthefriendly,personal- along thewestcoast. There are afew dotted fine placestostay West Coast before sodocheck tax, before bookingin. is thenormtoquote accommodationprices myriad taxes thatapply.Rememberit places donot.Pricescited here includethe cept credit cards,butmanyof thebudget headtothe away fromeveryone, others, tryaplacenearMatira Point.Toget If you’re travelling soloandlookingtomeet people usuallyeatanddrinkwhere theystay. ented towardspackage touristsandmost southern coast.Boraisdefinitely ori- majority are concentrated alongthethe around theisland,aswellon camp sites onatruebudget. forthose over thelastdecade. There are afew even cheaper little believe. Butyoucanalso benefit fromthe are assumptuous asthehypeleadsyouto ings onBoraBora’sdeluxe hotels, which You couldeasilywhittle awayyourlife sav- SLEEPING inEnglish. commentaries Motu Tapu andMotuToopua. There are the airportonMotuMute, Tea vanui Pass, speaking staff are extrapluses. speaking staff quay 300 CFP. Bicycles,kayaks andEnglish- quay cost500CFP; transfers fromVaitape side of the road.Transfers from Farepiti Rosina towardsMatira Point, ontheinland fraction of theprice. before It’sright Chez atthetophotels fora bungalow rivalsthose but solidoption,andthemostexpensive amid atropicalgarden.Dormsare asimple place isinaFrench Polynesian–stylevillage Village Pauline Village Bora Topdive All thetop-endandmidrange placesac- canbefoundall placestostay Although Thisbeautifullymaintained pensions BORA ••Sleeping

( %

( % 67 7216;[email protected]; thathave sprungup 60 50 50; www.topdive.com; 60 5050;www.topdive.com; motu as motu, . 163

)

BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA from 6000/7500CFP,bungalows14,000CFP) the lagoon-side setting is a delight. There isadelight. the lagoon-side setting full of the late Jean Masson’s paintingsand creaks andthewallsare paperthin, butit’s character, The house Rosine herself. asdoes edge, this CFP, bungalows10,000-13,000CFP) 72 04;dm/r3500/7500CFP) they allacceptcredit cards. water only; unusuallyforbudget places, Many of thefollowingplaceshave cold ofbest sweep beach onthemainisland. around Matira Pointthatlayclaimtothe but there are a number of little They maylacktheluxuryof thetophotels, BUDGET most exclusively tocouples. your breath Boracaters though: al- this isprobablyyourbestbet.Don’thold travelling soloandlookingtomeet others, operators andtourcompanies.Ifyou’re the island’sbestbeach, andloadsof dive ofern toe BoraBora. Thisarea alsofeatures clustered around Matira Point,atthesouth- Much of theisland’saccommodationis Point&Around Matira 164 kitchen andlounge chairs in thesand. makes it hardtoresist. There’s acommunal fabulous location–onBora’sbest beach – altogether claustrophobic, butChezNono’s The roomsare tiny,hot,overpriced and lows are stilladequate. lessplush,though beds.Thesmallerbunga- and comfortable overlooking linens thelagoon,high-quality featuresbreezy affair long,airywindows at thepowerresorts, thisspaciousand value. Almostas classyastheonesfound cure thebig bungalow,thisplaceisfantastic Vaitape. Half boarddoublestheprice. about a20-minute walkonfootsouthof budget ortwo. they’lldoforanight It’s get ratherhot,butifyou’re onareally tight The five roomsare incredibly basicandcan sideoftain theroad,4.5kmfromVaitape. cheapest share bathrooms.It’sonthemoun- common lounge andkitchen facilities.The decoratedwell aspleasantly roomswith new bungalowswiththeirownkitchens as friendly, ChezRosinafeatures tworelatively Chez Rosina Chez Nono Pension Maeva –ChezRosineMasson Pension Maeva Blue Lagoon BORA••Sleeping pension

(

% (

% ( % 67 7138;[email protected]; r7500 67 7091;[email protected]; s/d hasloadsof charm and 67 6564;rperperson2200CFP) Right onthewater’s Right Ifyoucanse- Warmand pensions

( % 67

59 50; www.accorhotels.com; rfrom13,000CFP; 59 50;www.accorhotels.com; and theIntercontinental. justbeforeuata theMatira Pointturn-off not worththeextraprice. LookforTeman- Skip the‘superiorbungalows’,asthey’re petite porches, located nearasmallbeach. local stylewithlotsof Tahitian wallartand tures avariety of bungalowsdoneupinthe tion that’soften fullybooked, thisplacefea- bungalows uptheroadto thenorth. bungalows inonespotand therest of the reception, therestaurant andfourof the canbeabit confusing–lookfor The setup from Vaitape cost1500CFPperperson. an additional8000CFP. Return transfers CFP perperson, whilefull board costs fabulous restaurant. Half boardadds5000 is friendlyandhelpfultheplace hasa at thishotel Theser onMatira Beach. vice simple, spaciousandtastefully decorated 40,000 CFP) at allmidrange places. with hotwater. Credit cardsare accepted you cansafely expectprivate bathrooms As yousaunterintothemidrange category, MIDRANGE with hotwater). Transfers cost500CFP. room, kitchen andtwobathrooms(one offer much privacy.There’s ashared lounge butobviouslydoesn’t gle bedsispleasant views). Adorm-styleroomwiththree sin- people, andthree upstairs (twowithsea are tworooms downstairs foroneortwo .com; bungalowsfrom14,000CFP) disabled access. disabled are in80modernrooms,fourof which have Digs zling mirage thatmeltsintothesea. the poolwillblowyouaway–ahip,daz- crampedsite,value, despite and theslightly Travellerstag. give itgoodreviews for comes withamuch more price affordable bouring joints,butthisbeach-front place It’s notquite asclassysomeof theneigh- Transfers fromVaitape cost500CFP. have lovely balconiesoverlooking the sea. the locationistranquilandsomerooms and kitchen. There’s nobeach access, but cooled homes,allwithshared bathroom Robert &Tina offers roomsinsimple,fan- big whiteonthepoint,Chez complexright Hotel Matira Hotel Novotel Bora Bora Hotel & Beach Resort &BeachResort Bora Hotel Novotel &Tina Chez Robert Village TemanuataVillage Thethatched-roof bungalowsare

( %

67 7858;bungalows22,000- ( % ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 67 7561;www.temanuata 67 6355;r8000CFP) Agreat-value op- as

( % A 60 )

lows from45,000CFP; .com; r/bungalowsfrom30,000/46,000CFP; for wandering.Idealhoneymooners. outdoor areas are tropicaljungles,perfect tiple terraces andatumblingwaterfall. The visionofbelow. Thepoolisafantastic mul- lagoon fish swimminginthecrystal-clear window inthefloorreveals myriadtropical in thebathroomperfumeair,aglass bungalows exuderomance–vanillaplants Theover-waterBora’s mostlushdelights. favouriteis anotherjet-set andoneof Bora natural environment,theIntercontinental CFP; 00; www.borabora.interconti.com; bungalowsfrom70,000 Intercontinental MoanaBeachBora Intercontinental TOP END www.lonelyplanet.com amid lushjunglefoliage. beach are inthehills justasappealing–set designs. Unitsacrosstheroadfrom windows cutintothefloorandPolynesian over-water bungalowsfeature token glass Rooms are andmodern;the comfortable ing toomuch intheluxurydepartment. lowerpriceswithoutcompromis- slightly its competitors, thissprawlingresort offers While notasisolated orasglamorous for aface-lift.Originallybuiltbyfilmmaker theplacewasdue which is good because for major renovations whenwestoppedby, Le Maitai Polynesia Le Maitai Sofitel Marara Sofitel .com; bungalowsfrom75,000CFP; Hotel Bora THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE from Vaitape. tea. The hotel Point,about7km isonRaititi miss thecomplimentary afternoon high Don’tby aPolynesiandance performance. rightonthe beach accompaniedis served to leave. The restaurant isfabulous–dinner nets –are so deliciousyoumightnotwant four-poster bedsdraped withmosquito over-water bungalows–featuring gorgeous luxurious withoutfeeling ostentatious. The real estate, butmanagestobeincredibly charm, thismasterpiece rulesBora’sbest the mostgraciousandexoticSouthPacific mous –Pierce Brosnanisaregular. Exuding long beenthedomainofrichandfa- hotels intheworld,Hotel Bora Borahas Consistently regarded asoneofthebest ais ) Seamlessly blendingintoits Seamlessly

( % as

( % 60 5500;www.sofitel.com;bunga-

( % 60 4460;www.amanr ) This hotel was closed This hotel wasclosed 60 3000;www.hotelmaitai ais

( % ai esorts 60 49 )

)

ais www.boraboranui.com; bungalows75,000-300,000CFP; from 8amtomidnight. front of half-hour thetouristoffice) every the resort andthemain island(fromjustin new treehouse spa. Ashuttlerunsbetween sureand bars. tocheck Be outthefabulous a gymnasium,boutiques,boats,restaurants on offer fromtennis –everything courts to amountofdraw isthesheer entertainment are real quite posh,butBoraLagoon’s it isn’texactlysmall).Thebungalowshere withmorefeel (although than75bungalows Motu Toopua,ithasanidyllicandsecluded travellers. Oneof onlytwopropertieson gets consistently marksfrom high Lagoon this new resort onMotuToopua oozes d 7000/10,000CFP) Staying ona Staying Motu The from. choose of theisland,withonly a few placesto The eastcoastislessbuilt-upthantherest East Coast place uptoitscompetitors’ standards. hopefully thenewversion willbringthe was getting pretty wornaroundtheedges – ricane Farrow andhiscrew whileshooting Mia in1977tohouse Dino DeLaurentiis of BoraBora. quillity, acomplete escapeandgreat views is bungalowsfrom60,000CFP; boralagoonresort.com; swim withraysandsharks). snorkelling(an enclosed area where youcan and boattripsacrosstotheLagoonarium clude acommunalkitchen, bicyclesforhire but it’scleanandinaquietarea. in- Pluses madeof cardboard, This placeisseemingly area. Credit cardsare accepted. There’s nobeach, butthere’s anicedecked quay are offered, andbikes are available. the price. Free transfers fromtheVaitape with bananasandbreakfast isincludedin and kitchen facilities.Thetrees are laden that are wellequippedwithbigbathrooms on theisland,this per person2000CFP,dm/d/bungalows3000/8000/9000CFP) Bora Bora Nui Resort &Spa Bora NuiResort Bora Bora Lagoon Resort Bora LagoonResort Pension Anau Bora Lagoonarium ) (which bombed atthebox it office), Anotherawardwinner,Bora ) Sure tobecome ahotfavourite, motu Oneof thebestbudget places

( BORA ••Sleeping % 67 7817;fax7324;bungalows/ ensures unrivalledtran- pension

( ( % % hasbungalows 67 7134;campsites 60 4000;www.bora

( % 60 3300; Hur- 165 a

BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA between 8.15amand10pm. between board. There’s 45minutes ashuttleevery Add anextra7500/10,000CFPfor half/full ances are generally heldthree timesweekly. water ones.Traditionaldanceperform- materials –includingsomespecialover- ous bungalowsconstructed fromnatural on MotuTevairoa boastsavarietyof luxuri- and over-water restaurant, resort thissexy generally shared (there are two bungalows facilitiesare Bathroom coconut plantation. are five simplebungalows inalagoon-side Bora Bora)hasa relaxed atmosphere. There motu On MotuPaahi, thisperfectly affordable amic views. but withextraordinary360-degree panor- the resort andoffers theusualpampering spa isperched onalava hilloverlooking obligatory glass-floor viewingpanel;the beds. Over-water bungalows feature the marble bathroomsandIndonesiancanopy spacious, withslickfeatures like Italian- swanky charm. Bungalowsare unusually 166 .pearlresorts.com; bungalowsfrom55,000CFP; .pearlresorts.com; is Le Paradis Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resor Bora Pearl BeachResor t them onyourown. excursions –it’smuchcheapertoorganise paidand snorkellingtrips. theextra Skip well asevening shows, can drink–andnotjustthecheapstuffas of choices. Rates includeallthebooze you meals taste pretty decentandoffer loads sive beds. king-sized The themedbuffet fabulous baths,giant windowsandmas- beach, thebungalowsare spaciouswith hardly shabby.Onafinestretch ofprivate butit’sous finesseofBora’sritziestresorts, Club Meddoesn’thave theall-outluxuri- hotel-only staysifthere’s spaceavailable. tours,individualscanbookon package caters mainlytohoneymooningAmericans sleeping optionontheisland.Althoughit the Internet) andourfavourite affordable of thebestdealsinBora(bookover can feel one alittlecheesy,thisisactually ai fromUS$375; 2-person all-inclusivepackages Club Med THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE BORA••Eating

pension ) Withamagnificentswimmingpool ) AlthoughtheClubMedtheme

(

% (well, affordable fora (well,affordable ( % 67 7553;bungalowsfrom13,000CFP) 60 4604;www.clubmed.com; motu

( % excursions 60 5200;www motu off off a idien.com; bungalowsfrom70,000CFP; lows from75,000CFP; beach bungalows30,000/35,000CFP) visitors thinkit’sjusttooquiet. Au isnotalwaysreadily available andsome MotuPiti accessoff although peaceful stay, 12 bungalows,itensures anintimate and a ratherstylishplacetorelax. Withonly some as luxuri ous men notbeas friendlyEdenmight tally Marara. bar, andregular shuttleboatsfromSofitel restaurant withapanoramicview,sunset beach or over-water bungalows;there’s a computer from modems.Youcanchoose tecture and hidestheair-con, satellite TV the coconuttrees. French Polynesianarchi- are perched onahillside,scattered among boat fromthemainisland.Thebungalows thisSofitelUta, isfive gloriousminutes by per person. Credit cardsare notaccepted. are free; transport toVaitape costs1000CFP with private bathrooms).Airporttransfers a week, costingaround 7500to9000 CFP.a week, times dinnersformances withbuffet several your hotel. offertaurants free transporttoand from aswellsomeoftaurants theresort res- (snack bars), nearlyalltheindependent res- you maygohungry.Otherthanthe doors at9pm,sodon’twaituntil thenor bed early.Mostrestaurants firmlyshuttheir to The touristinfluxaside,Boragoes EATING island from8amtomidnight. shuttle boattoandfromAnauonthemain turtlesastheypotter about.tating There’s a the addedbonusof watching therehabili- protection work,soguestshavein sea-turtle Méridienisnowinvolved is fabulousandLe lows are mesmerising,theboat-shapedbar vast glassfloors intheover-water bunga- Mt Otemanu onBoraisunique. The and sometimeseccentric,theviewof description. Thearchitecture isfantastic, on MotuPitiAau, thisplacealmostdefies sure why.On theeastern sideof thelagoon, we’resnotty rankings–although notquite Méridienhasslippedabitinthe hotels, Le Once considered oneof theworld’sbest Eden Beach Le Méridien Bora Le Méridien All theluxuryhotels have danceper- Sofitel Motu Sofitel

(

% ( % a 60 5760;[email protected];garden/ 60 5600;www.sofitel.com;bunga- motu ) OntinyMotuPitiUu

( www.lonelyplanet.com hotels, but itisstill % 60 5151;www.lemer Theenviron- ais snacks )

CFP; the sideof theroadfacingmountain. bigger supermarkets justnorthof Vaitape on supermarket inVaitape. There are alsoafew to 1500CFP).Magasin isthemain ChinLee simpledishes (1000 the mainroadandserve roulottes several should yousofancy.Intheevening drinks. Youcanalsoget andplaylotto, abeer andcool sandwiches the mainroadthatsell cheap meal.There’s astringof along stalls a few goodplacesforbreakfast, asnackor Vaitape butthere isnoculinary capital, are West Coast www.lonelyplanet.com 1200-5500 CFP; h live musicanddanceperformances. alsogetstables) goodreviews andincludes grilled meats,fish, andlocalfruitsvege- PacificThe Saturday-night (afeast of buffet uru the globewithvery interesting results –the The menuincorporates cuisinefromaround at thisfunkyrestaurant inVillage Pauline. food. Therestaurant offers free transport. options are limited mainlytomeatandsea- and Polynesiawithgreat results, although theflavoursromantic jointfuses of France overlooking thelagoon.Themenuatthis ceilings, stylishdécorandanoutdoorterrace namehasfabulouscathedral by thesame Bora Kaina Hut Bora Kaina Topdive Bora Topdive Bamboo HouseRestaurant 1500 CFP,mains2500-3000CFP; Bloody Mary’s THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE hours. Credit cardsare accepted. tween Vaitape andClubMedduringdinner isprovided fromanywheretransport be- stop byforatleast asunsetcocktail.Free fet (thinktimeisinconsequential)illusion, so a floorofsandallheighten the JimmyBuf- stools, coloured lights,athatchedroofand it’s afavourite withcelebrities. Coconut-tree cellent, buttheambienceisunbeatable and barbecue way–isnotalwayscon sistently ex- American- fish, seafoodandmeatcooked perience. fresh OK,sothefood–hand-picked Boraex- Bloody Mary’sisanot-to-be-missed the mostfamousbarsinSouthPacific, A Borainstitution,andperhapsoneof lunch &dinner) h (breadfruit) gnocchi isrecommended. lunch &dinner) (food vans) take up position along (food vans)take uppositionalong h Travellers rave about thefood lunch &dinnerTue-Sun)

( % (

% The restaurant atthehotel

( 67 7216;dishes1500-3000CFP; % 67 7286;appetisers1200- 60 50 50; dishes 2000-3600 60 5050;dishes2000-3600

h ( % lunch &dinner) 67 7624;dishes Along-

h 1500-3000 CFP) h toasted sandwiches500-900CFP; (around 9000CFP)iswellrespected. The resort’s dinnerand danceperformance and bacon–heavy all-you-can-eat egg buffet. from;breakfast tochoose sandwiches isan cation. Atlunch there are loadsof and salads quite reasonably pricedconsideringthe lo- dishesandis a lotof Americanandseafood the beach. Theinternational menufeatures on and anespeciallyattractive right setting hasareputation forfinefood Moana Beach, Blue Lagoon quite good.It’sjusttothenorthof Vaitape. impersonal butthequalityof thefoodis specialities,thisrestaurant tonese feels abit h service and a romantic, open-air setting. The The andaromantic, open-airsetting. service Polynesian food,along with professional ine withanemphasis onFrench andFrench Bora offers excellentinternational cuis- regardedThis highly restaurant intheHotel Noa RESTAURANTS lunch menus. ants, often offering very reasonably priced of thefancyresorts have fabulousrestaur- island’s mostvariedeatingoptions.Many The area aroundMatira Pointoffers the Point&Around Matira Le Cocotier Chez Richard Vaitape’s Pahia, Le Centre nearthequay. the placetocheck youremail.Lookfor itin Thisisalso sandwiches. pastries andlight along withadeliciousrange of freshly baked excellentcoffee breakfast orasnack,itserves The mostsophisticated placeintownfor port andcredit cardsare accepted. priced. Therestaurant provides free trans- lunchtime snackmenuisvery reasonably ine gets consistently goodreviews andthe tirely fromlocalbamboo. TheFrench cuis- fairly unpretentious eatery constructed en- isa time islandfavourite, House Bamboo northern sideofVaitape. northern h Matira TerraceMatira Also recommended: Le Panda d’Or L’Appetisserie lunch &dinner) lunch & dinner) Chinese takeaway inVaitape.lunch &dinner)Chinesetakeaway lunch &dinner)Free transfers fromyourhotel. breakfast, lunch&dinner) GoodChineseonthe

( % ( % ( NoaNoa,attheIntercontinental ( 60 4900;breakfast buffet 2500CFP,dishes % % 67 7418;dishes1000-2100CFP; Serving upbigplates of Can- Serving

67 6564;dishes1200-2500CFP; 67 6969;dishes1000-1500CFP;

( ( % % BORA ••Eating ( % 67 78 88; pastries 130-400CFP, 67 7888;pastries 60 4460;dishes1500-6000CFP) 67 6210;dishes1500-2500; h breakfast &lunch) 167

BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA h dishes 1500-4500CFP; specialities, inamellowsetting. food, includinglotsof French Polynesian pleasant Maitai Polynesia,thisplaceserves it’s open.Ifitis,there’s free transport. the mosterratichours if socallfirst tosee easily make ameal.Sadly,theplacekeeps withsmoked –and orpasta salmon salad appealing asthemains–thinkgoat-cheese Village Temanuata. are Theappetisers as thisrestaurantin uniquesauces, ispartof menu of fish,lamb,veal andsteak cooked Bora andAnau. is offered anywhere Hotel Bora between and fries,asteal at600CFP. Free transport tions. Ifyou’re onabudget, orderaburger offerings alongwithafew lighter snackop- Themenuhasloadsofthe sea. Chinese big plate-glass windowslookingoutonto andchairs,tables creaky floorboardsand ambiencewithwornwooden has apleasant fast &lunch) Ben’s Place CAFÉS &SNACK BARS CFP; a thatched roof. under mealsatfunkywoodentables and light frothytropicalcocktails attached barserves 168 CFP) 5000 CFP; this alfresco Place, views) and diagonallyopposite Ben’s and eggy breakfastand eggy options. cru andspicy sandwiches tuna-salad meals. Themenufeatures from everything ambience asitisforitsvariedhome-cooked from thewater isaspopularforitsenergetic decades, thisramshackle beach shackacross offer. Credit cardsare accepted. burgers, crepes, fondueon andeven salads raspberry vinegar. There are alsoplentyof mahi mahi specialitiessuch as andhouse cious pastas thin-crust pizzas,deli- popular foritstasty in anopen-airthatched-roof building.It’s foliage anddense of yellowlights bright Bounty isfestivelyLa decorated withloads Fare Tama’a Restaurant Maitai Snack LaBounty Restaurant Matira Restaurant Snack Matira Fare Manuia Restaurant lunch Tue-Sun) Part of theHotel Matira, thisrestaurant h BORA••Eating (raw fish dish) to fajitas, pizza, pasta (raw fishdish)tofajitas, pizza,pasta lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) h

Alocalandtouristfavourite for ( % (dorado) with vanilla sauce and (dorado)withvanillasauce lunch &dinner) snack 67 7454;dishes300-2000CFP;

Beside the lagoon(great Beside ( % h

( isafavourite with the 67 7732;dishes500-1500 CFP; ( % % lunch &dinner) 67 7043;dishes800-2500 67 7051;dishes1200-2000 Offering aneclectic Offering

( % FunkylittleSnack 67 6806;dishes2000-

( Part of Le % h 60 3000; poisson break- & dinner) from 400CFP,dishes1600-2000CFP; h 6.30am-1pm &3-6.30pmSun) of sauces. inavariety dishesandsteaks sautéed nese too skimpy.Dinnerincludesloadsof Chi- lunches are decentvalueandportionsaren’t food’s notbadeither. Breakfast andlight this and alocationoverlooking thelagoonmake fresh bread tosunscreen andtoothpaste. with allthenecessities–fromwineand Novotel BoraBora,thisplaceiswellstocked The shuttle operates fromtheAnau quay. and French Polynesianàlacarte offerings. fromavariety ofyou canchoose French There’s adifferent or menueach night set by thelagoon– theviewsare fabulous. superb surfboard-shapedrestaurant right are shuttlesfromtheVaitape quay. polite andprofessional. Therethe service cuisine isfresh andexquisitely presented, overlookingtable thelagoon.The gourmet afinebottleofpeak orsample wineata overthe sunset BoraBora’smostsacred wonderful candle-litdinnerasyouwatch Resort.Youcanenjoya Bora Lagoon restaurant ontheisland,Otemanu isinthe allowed over ifthehotel isfullybooked. vations are andyoumaynotbe advisable, Reser- timesaweek. several dinner buffets island, theyoffer performanceswith evening Bora. Like theircompetitors onthemain at theluxuryhotels onthe allowyoutoenjoytherestaurants midnight, Free shuttles, which generally operate until Motu The Tiare Market SELF-CATERING h iety, butquite good.Takeaways available. food isof theburger, pizzaandomelette var- French-speaking expatcommunity.The & dinner) tering day. that catches thebreeze –perfect onaswel- dishes. It’sinalovelynese position raised a goodmixof French PolynesianandChi- Snack Patoti Tipanié Otemanu MoiHere Snack Restaurant lunch &dinner) 8am-2pm &7-9pmMon-Sat) snack Great alarge wooden tables, menu In Le MéridienBoraBora,thisisa InLe ( % anobviouschoice. the Ohyeah,

( ( % 60 5151;dishesfrom2000CFP; h

( Perhaps themostromantic % 60 4002;dishesfrom2500CFP; 6.30am-1.30pm &3-7pmMon-Sat, 67 6199;dishes1000-2000CFP; www.lonelyplanet.com Across fromthe Thisoption offers motu

( % h 67 68 41; burgers 67 6841;burgers around Bora aroundBora breakfast, lunch h lunch rather appealingsnackmenuaround,too. There’sally untilaboutmidnight. generally a motu have someeven cocktail; happyhours. The most of theluxuryhotels or foracoldbeer at9pm.Youcanwaltzinto wants toclose yawning inunisonwiththebartender who find youwake upsoearlyhere thatyou’llbe hotels isabout thesumof things,butyou’ll nesia. Dinnerandashowinoneof thebig as itisontheotherislandsof French Poly- 10pm onBoraBora. Nightlife isasrestrained You’ll feel like apumpkinifyou’re outafter DRINKING www.lonelyplanet.com minimusicals toPolynesian danceperform- on adifferent stage –from showeach night ing 2500CFPadmission fees toashow. entry policyassome placesare nowcharg- the reception desksabouttheschedule and formances twoorthree askat timesweekly; dinner.also feast onabuffet There are per- 6500and 8000CFPyoucan or forbetween ally get inforthepriceof adrinkatthebar, merising gyrationsrequired. Youcanusu- have afew extrajointsto achieve themes- the remarkablyto nimblewomen,whoseem The menoften lookabitclumsyalongside by alocalgroupinoneof theluxuryhotels. Don’t missa traditional dance performance ENTERTAINMENT club about1kmnorthof Vaitape. be afun,very out.Lookforthe local,night travelling inasmallclique,itcanprove to here,may notfeel comfortable butifyou’re after onetoomanyHinanos).Solowomen not unheardof fordrunken brawlstostart and theplacecanget (it’s alittlerough catersnightclub mainlytoyounglocals, 1000 CFP; 49 00) such aswankyplace. drinks are surprisingly unadventurous for list. Thevibeisrelaxed andwelcomingbut hours from4pmto6pmandalongcocktail tree stools. floorsfunky ambience,sand andcoconut- tracts locals,expatsandtouristsalike forits overcut loose Itat- afew cocktails. sunset andbaris taurant the islandtomingle,thisvery popularres- Bloody Mary’s Club Med Club Med Le Recife Discotheque Le Recife MoanaBeachBora Intercontinental hotels offer free shuttle services, usu- hotels offer free shuttleservices, This open-airbarhasdailyhappy h 11pm-3am Fri &Sat) 11pm-3am Fri ( %

( 60 4604;admission6500 CFP) % the 67 7286) placeonBorato

( % The best place on Thebestplaceon Bora Bora’ssole 67 7387;admission

( % puts 60 here –thisisforbeautiful won’t findyourusualsouvenir numbers office in Vaitape. pretty specialgallery justnexttothe post shirts, curiosand pearls,are soldatthis Polynesian art, along withtheusualT- others road. canbefoundalongthecoastal ies andcraftshopsonBoraBora;plentyof by nomeansanexhaustive listof thegaller- itional Marquesan-designed tattoo. Thisis pareu colouredping yourself invariousbrightly (or dreaming about buying)pearls,wrap- tiques scattered around theisland,buying themanygalleriesandbou- ping between Shopping onBoratends tomeanhop- SHOPPING hour. forshow timesandreservations. Call show,the evening usuallylastingaboutan with unlimited bottlesof winefollowedby ances. Admission dinner includesabuffet collection of clothes,craftsandsculptures. looking someofthis boutiquesells themostartistic- isation Absolut Despert the Absolut Vodkaadvertising campaign, best knownforthepaintinghecreated for patterns. Heits boldandbright isperhaps his workhasgainedworldwideacclaimfor originals (noprints),and Despert onlydoes artist andcheck outhislatest work.Alain lovely littlestudiotochat withthecharming ginal paintings,it’sworthstoppingbythis Even theori- topurchase ifyoucan’tafford cluding someunique-looking fine artandcraftsfromtheMarquesas, in- worry aboutthelanguage barrier. run bytwoAmericanssoyouwon’thave to this shopoffers somecreative pieces.It’s ataround10,000CFP, pearlsstarting loose of thepearlsyoubuyfrom OPEC. here; elsewhere it’sjustaguarantee assessed pearls. Youcan’tget thepearlsyou’ve bought first, ifonlyforaquicklessononcultured ious aboutpurchasing finepearls,stophere itsquality.Ifyou’rechine soyoucansee ser- rare-pearl companyputsyourpearlinama- Boutique Gauguin Atelier Despert Atelier Tamanu Galerie d’Art Tamanu Galerie Office Polynésien d’Expertise etdeCommercial- Polynésiend’Expertise Office Jardin Gauguin Matira Pearls Matira

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BORA BORA BORA BORA BORA stalls selling selling stalls deBorahaslotsof Artisanal Centre Matira Point.Popular,sterile andreliable. headtothisshopin ally designedtattoos tacular scenery. tacular aircraft offers thebestviewsof thespec- inthereversea week direction. godaily,theyonlyoperate twice to Rangiroa CFP, twohours, Whileflights twiceweekly). an onwardconnectiontoManihi (26,000 (23,000CFP,1½hours, daily) and Rangiroa to theTuamotus,withavery to handyflight Tahiti alsohasdirect fromBora flights (6500CFP,20minutes, daily).Air Ra’iatea Mo’orea (18,000CFP,15minutes, daily)and Huahine (7500CFP,20minutes, daily), Tahiti (14,000CFP,45minutes, sixdaily), including amixof art,booksandpottery. this galleryhasalittlebitof – everything Vaitapehalfway between andMatira Point, and Friday andat4pmon Sunday. and Taha’a at7amonMonday, Wednesday cost 3500CFP. The boatdepartsforRa’iatea as adaytripfrom Bora–return fares day. It’squite possibletovisitMaupitisame the return tripleaves at4pmonthe 8.30am onTuesday,Thursday and Saturday; departs theVaitape quayforMaupiti at CFP, 1½hours, Theboat fourtimesweekly). three orRa’iatea/Taha’a timesweekly) (2500 Bora andMaupiti (2500CFP,1¾hours, 3km northof Vaitape. Inter-island boatsdockattheFarepiti quay, Boat Air Tahiti Air can bereached byairorboatfromthere. Bora is270kmnorthwestof Tahiti and THERE&AWAY GETTING 170 Mon-Fri, 8-11amSat) Mon-Fri, Tuesday, Thursday andSunday. and Fridayat5pm;itleaves Boraon leaving Pape’ete onMonday,Wednesday andTaha’a),Bora (viaHuahine,Ra’iatea Pape’etethree between tripsaweek andBora crafts producedbyislandwomen. In the tourist office bytheVaitapeIn thetouristoffice quay, Flying intoBoraBora,theleftsideof the Galerie AlainetLinda Galerie Salon deTatouages The cargo ship The BORA BORA •• Getting There &Away BORA••Getting Maupiti Express Maupiti

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