BORA BORA Bora Borabora 156 © Lonelyplanetpublications (Guesthouses), Often Situated Onsomeofthebestreal Estate, Inwhichtorest Yourhead
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© Lonely Planet Publications 156 www.lonelyplanet.com BORA BORA •• History 157 HISTORY deterring visitors because of overdevelop- In ancient times, the island was known as ment, while at the same time its major Vava’u, perhaps supporting the theory that it drawcard – marine life – is seriously under Bora Bora was colonised by inhabitants from the Ton- threat. Let’s hope the juggling act can be gan island of the same name. ‘Bora Bora’ managed, because this is a truly beautiful roughly translates as ‘first-born’, indicating part of the world. that this may have been the most impor- tant island after Ra’iatea. According to local ORIENTATION Bora Bora will seduce you into buying the Cadillac of paradises, the one loaded with all myth, the legendary Hiro, the first king of Bora Bora was created by volcanic activity the luxury trappings you know you don’t need but just can’t live without. Legendary not Ra’iatea, sent his son Ohatatama to rule Bora around three or four million years ago. The only for its lush beauty but also its hedonistic decadence, this island is a fairy-tale creation Bora. rim of the ancient volcano can be easily of jagged volcanic peaks juxtaposed against crystal-clear aqua lagoons. One of the world’s Due to the shortage of level ground on traced; the sea has broken into the crater to Bora Bora, land pressures created an unusu- form Povai Bay at the southern tip of the is- most famous dream destinations, Bora Bora lures honeymooners, heiresses and movie stars ally defensive population of fierce warriors. land, and Motu Toopua and Motu Toopua by the plane load with a potent potion of ostentatiously hip, oh-so-romantic, slightly Only Huahine managed to resist the warri- Iti are fragments of the old crater rim. Bora naughty exotica. A wicked seductress, this island tempts with a Pandora’s box of guilty ors of Bora Bora at their most expansive. Bora is spectacularly mountainous, rising pleasures: but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth the hefty price attached. James Cook sighted Bora Bora in 1769 to Mt Hue (619m), Mt Pahia (661m) and on his first voyage to French Polynesia, Mt Otemanu (727m). There’s no doubt Bora Bora is overpriced – both top-end and basic accommodation cost and a London Missionary Society (LMS) The main island stretches for about 9km more here than anywhere else in French Polynesia, and some say this is one paradise not base was established on the island in 1820. from north to south and is about 4km in Bora Bora supported Pomare in his push width at the widest point. A 32km road worth purchasing, that it’s overpriced, overdeveloped and overhyped. Others argue that the for supreme power over Tahiti, but resisted runs around the coast. island James Cook baptised as the ‘pearl of the Pacific’ is worth every penny of the très cher a French protectorate (established over Ta- A wide, sheltered and navigable lagoon entrance fee. If you’re looking to seriously indulge, Bora Bora has plenty of five-star resorts hiti in 1842) until the island was annexed encircles the island, with sandy motu (is- to pamper your every whim – the kinds of places where the glass-floored bungalows hover in 1888. lets) edging most of the outer reef. The During WWII a US supply base was es- Teavanui Pass on Bora Bora’s western side over turquoise seas, dinner is a multicourse candle-lit affair and breakfast is served from tablished here, prompted by the bombing is the only pass into the lagoon. an outrigger canoe. If money’s any object, Bora Bora has plenty of quaint family pensions of Pearl Harbor in 1941. From early 1942 Dusty Vaitape, south of the pass, is the (guesthouses), often situated on some of the best real estate, in which to rest your head. to mid-1946 Operation Bobcat transformed main town, but Matira Point is the anchor the island and, at its peak, up to 6000 men for tourists. The quay for inter-island ships were stationed on Bora Bora. Today the is at Farepiti, between Vaitape and Faanui. runway on Motu Mute is the clearest (and The airport is on Motu Mute at the north- HIGHLIGHTS most useful) reminder of those frenetic ern extremity of the outer reef edge. Living like royalty at the Intercontinental days. Until Faa’a airport on Tahiti opened Moana Beach Bora Bora ( p165 ), one of in 1961, this was French Polynesia’s inter- INFORMATION national airport. Eight massive seven-inch There are branches of Banque de Polynésie the world’s swankiest and most dreamy Bora Bora luxury resorts Lagoon naval cannons were installed around the and Banque Socredo in Vaitape, where you island during the war; all but one are still can exchange money or use the ATM. Admiring the lush scenery, lagoon and in place. If you need medical assistance, it’s a good idyllic motu (islet) on a boat tour ( p162 ) Reports of a discoloured lagoon and idea to inquire first at your hotel. There’s a Ogling the fish, coral and translucent water bleached coral (the result of El Niño) spread medical centre (%67 70 77) in Vaitape, or you on a snorkelling or jet-skiing trip across like Chinese whispers in 2001. Although the can contact Dr Juen (%67 70 62) or Dr Rous- the lagoon ( p161 ) entire Pacific was affected, Bora Bora was sanaly & Dr Boutry (%67 77 95). Embarking on a romantic, gastronomic particularly vulnerable as it has only one There are public telephones all around and visually stimulating evening adventure pass into its lagoon. The water is a spark ling the island; phonecards can be bought at a by feasting on traditional food then sipping aqua once again, but the damage to the coral number of shops, hotels and supermarkets. heavenly cocktails during a traditional is irreversible. Bora Bora visitor information centre (%67 76 36; dance performance at the swish Hotel There has been a general effort to clean h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) The office is on the quay at Hotel BORA Bora Bora Bora Bora ( p165 ) Intercontinental up Bora Bora in recent years, and local Vaitape and has loads of pamphlets and other info. Moana Beach children on cleaning bees are a fairly com- L’Appetisserie (%67 78 88; Centre Le Pahia; per hr Hiring a boat and spending a day stranded Bora Bora mon sight. But you’ll still see and smell 2500 CFP) Internet access in Vaitape. on a secluded, sandy motu ( p170 ) more rubbish than you’d hope to, particu- Pharmacy (%67 70 30; h8am-noon & 3.30-6pm BORA larly in the remote northern parts of the Mon-Fri, 8am-noon & 5-6pm Sat, 9-9.30am Sun) In island. It’s a fragile situation: the island Vaitape, just near Le Cocotier restaurant. POPULATION: 5757 AREA: 47 SQ KM is dependent on tourism but is at risk of Post office (%67 70 74) In the middle of Vaitape. BORA BORA Bora Bora 158 0 2 km 0 1 mile BORA BORA BORA A B C Muri Muri D E F ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ( La Vallée Blanche) Vaitape INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 59 Banque de Polynésie & Alain Gerbault Monument...10 A2 ATM..............................1 A2 Aqua Safari........................(see 48) 1 Motu 1 8 Pitoraverahi Banque de Tahiti & ATM...2 A2 Bora Bora Nui....................(see 33) Motu Airport Banque Socredo.................3 A2 Bora Bora Parasail................11 B5 58 Mute Bora Bora Visitors Information Bora Diving Centre..............12 D6 Vaitoto Pt Centre...........................4 A2 Diveasy................................13 B6 6 Gendarmerie (Police Jessie L..............................(see 41) Airport Motu Station).........................5 A2 Lagoonarium........................14 F4 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄCentre Le 60 West Point Quay Motu Paahi Pahia Motu Tane Ome L’Appetisserie.....................6 A1 Marae Aehua-tai..................15 E4 44 Medical Centre..................7 A2 Marae Fare-Opu..................16 C3 Vaitape Pharmacy...........................8 A1 Marae Marotetini................17 C4 Post Office........................9 A3 Marae Taharuu....................18 E4 7 Marae Taianapa..................19 C4 Motu Moute 56 Matira Jet Tours..................20 A6 2 4 2 3 Matira Tours Excursions.....(see 35) 10 5 Moana Adventure Tours.....21 D6 73 Musée de la Marine.............22 D3 Motu Ite 2 Nemo World......................(see 45) ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ74 23 Ocean Life Experience.........23 A2 1 Taihi Pt Quay Otemanu Tours...................24 C4 9 Ranch Reva Reva.................25 F7 Papua Pt Submarine Dock..................26 C3 Vairupe Bay Hitiaa 0 200m 72 Motu Tevairoa Bay Teremoana Tours..............(see 34) 0 0.1 miles 76 Tupuna Mountain Safari......27 D6 TV Tower............................28 D6 Paoeo Pt Paorie G Bay Tereia Pt Outurau Pt ὄὄ3 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ3 Motu Popotei 22 Taimoo Ridge Puhia Pt Tofari 33 26 16 Bay Faanui Bay Outuareho Pt Airport Shuttle Ferry 75 G Coastal Defence Guns Farepiti Pt Faanui Haamaire www.lonelyplanet.com Bay Motu G ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄAhuna 17 Mtὄὄ18 Mataihua (314m) 15 Inter-Island Ships G Fitiiu Pt G Vairau Teavanui Pass Bay 4 Manta Reef 4 19 Tapu Pahua Pt 24 Mt Hue 43 (619m) 50 14 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ 66 B o r a B o rὄὄ a Bora www.lonelyplanet.com ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄOutupiti Pt Mt Pahia Mt Mt Pahonu See Vaitape Vaitape (661m) Otemanu Anau (139m) 48 Motu Enlargement (727m) Tapu 30 65 Nunue 45 Moutara 54 78 11 5 67 63 5 61 Tiipoto Pererau Pt 62 G 42 29 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ57 Motu ὄὄὄ Toopua Vaiotaha Pt 38 Mohio Pt 40 77 Taahana Bay Povai Bay 31 Mt Mauaohunoa 71 (148m) 69 Motu Eagle Channel 46 Piti Aau Rofau Aponapu 47 53 Belvédère Bay Tehou (Lookout) Bay 64 52 Bay 70 68 32 21 51 ὄὄὄ6 ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ41 Manta Pass ὄὄὄPaoaoa Pt 6 55 36 37 34 Motu Faaopore 0 200m Toopuaiti 27 Mt Pahonu Bay (139m) 0 0.1 miles 20 28 13 12 Matira Pt 35 Raititi Pt 39 Taahana Matira Point Bay Rofau Bay 49 ὅὅὅ Motu 25 ὄὄὄSLEEPINGὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄPension Maeva – Chez Restaurant Matira..........(see 40) ὄὄὄPiti Uu Uta Motu Blue Lagoon....................29 D5 Rosine Masson.............47 A6 Snack La Bounty..............61 A5 Piti Uu Tai Fareone Pt ὅὅὅ Bora Bora Lagoon Resort..30 C5 Sofitel Marara....................48 B5 Snack Matira...................62 A5 Tupitipiti Pt Bora Bora Lagoonarium....31 E6 Sofitel Motu.....................