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BAKEWISE

The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with over 200 Magnificent Recipes

Shirley O. Corriher

SCRIBNER New York London Toronto Sydney Corriher_Bakewise_i-262_PTR 8/18/08 4:10 PM Page 1

Introduction

My goal in BakeWise is to give you tools—information that you can use to make not just success- ful baked goods, but outstanding baked goods. And in BakeWise, I strive to give you the information that you need to get the product that you want. Many times in cooking there is not a right or a wrong but simply a difference. For example, some people like fudgy brownies, some want cakey brownies, some want a crust on brownies, oth- ers want minimum crust. My goal is to explain what ingredient or technique produces these char- acteristics—reduce the flour in the brownie recipe to make it fudgy, beat vigorously with a mixer after you add the eggs to the batter for more crust. I come from a science background (I was a research chemist for the Vanderbilt Medical School). I think it is fascinating that many times master bakers’ directions follow almost exactly what the sci- ence texts say. For example, Chef Roland Mesnier, the White House executive pastry chef for twenty-five years—his directions for beating the egg-sugar mixture for a génoise are “right on” what the science texts’ directions are for making the most stable foam. Chef Roland cautions that reducing the speed when you are whipping the eggs is vital, because lengthy whipping at high speed produces large air bubbles, which will rise to the surface and pop during baking and produce a heavy . It is the same principle as overleavening a shortened cake. Roland’s beating times are 5 minutes on high and 12 minutes on medium, until the foam is com- pletely cool, thick, and shiny. Science texts say beating on high produces larger bubbles, medium speed is ideal for a stable foam, and that, as beating time is extended, the stability of the foam increases. Pastry chef Paul Prosperi at The Culinary Institute of America gives students a clear example of why they should use medium speed and lengthy beating for a génoise. In Baking Boot Camp, Darra Goldstein describes Chef Paul showing the students how to observe the foam during beating. When beating on high, eventually the foam falls, and the same happens when beating on low. But when beating on medium, the foam remains high regardless of the beating time. Other things that I get excited about are finding something that is really helpful—like how to read the label on baking powder to tell when it will release bubbles in baking (immediately after it is stirred into the batter or dough, after a few minutes, or in the hot oven). I definitely don’t want a baking powder that makes 100% of the bubbles instantly. If I am doing several things at once and am slow getting the cake in the oven, or if I get interrupted by a phone call, I may lose most of my leavening.

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I could never remember long chemical names, so I make a list of the acids that I want in a bak- ing powder before I go to the store. I use the guidelines on page 47, which shows when each acid releases a specific percentage of bubbles for eight different acids used in baking powder. And I see that I want a baking powder that contains one or more of the following acids: monocalcium phos- phate, sodium acid pyrophosphate, or sodium aluminum phosphate. Most of these release bubbles at all three stages.

MEASUREMENTS Weights in the recipes in BakeWise are either averages from my actual weighing or are from the USDA National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference, which is online at www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search. This database contains nutrient information on foods, and also their weights. The recipes were tested using standard cups, tablespoons, and teaspoons. In many places, I have given metric measures derived by calculation. The recipes have not been tested using metric measures.

HOW TO USE BAKEWISE You can go to any chapter. For example, if you are making cookies, you can just go to the cookie chapter, you don’t have to read other chapters first. You may see discussions of ingredients like flour in several different chapters. This is because, for different baked goods, you need to pay attention to different characteristics of flour.

EQUIPMENT: MIXER I used a KitchenAid counter mixer and a KitchenAid hand mixer for putting together most recipes. I love the strength of the KitchenAid hand mixer and have found that I can use it many times when you would ordinarily need the counter mixer.

WHY I USE A BAKING STONE: BASIC PROBLEMS IN BAKING In baking you have a constant battle going on. You need to get the batter or dough hot and rising before the heat from the top of the oven forms a crust on the baked good, holding it down. You want heat from the bottom and you want the baked good away from the hot top of the oven. But you don’t want to burn the bottom. How can you do all of this? First, we need to take a look at how ovens work.

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1. Position a shelf in the center of the oven and preheat to 350ºF/177ºC. Cover a baking sheet with Release foil (nonstick side up) or parchment sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. 2. Pour the boiling water over the raisins and allow to soak for about 10 minutes. Drain well and spread out on a paper towel for a while. 3. Spread out the walnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. Toss with 2 tablespoons (1 oz/28 g) of the while they are hot. When cool, coarsely chop and set aside.

4. In a heavy-duty mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the remaining 3⁄4 cup (6 oz/170 g) butter with the sugar until light and fluffy. 5. Beat in the molasses and vanilla. Add one egg at a time and beat just to blend. 6. Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Sprinkle the water over the flour and stir in. Stir in the bak- ing powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Then stir in the oats. 7. Add about one-third of the dry mixture at a time to the butter mixture and blend in on the low- est speed. Remove the bowl from the mixer and stir in the nuts by hand. Then stir in the raisins.

8. I like to oil my hands and shape about 11⁄2-inch (4-cm) dough balls. Place them on the prepared baking sheet about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and flatten them out slightly. 9. Bake one sheet at a time for about 10 minutes. They don’t brown much and they do not look totally done, but they firm as they cool. Place on a cooling rack to cool.

Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies

Makes about 21⁄2 dozen cookies

This is a family favorite, a slightly more elegant oatmeal cookie. I love the flavor combination of bourbon, pecans, and brown sugar. My daughter-in-law, the opera singer Beth McCool, says that when there are friends around and she makes these, the cookies are gone before they can even cool.

What This Recipe Shows

Roasting enhances the flavor of nuts.

Processing the oats in a food processor makes a slightly smoother texture.

Using shortening limits the cookie’s spread.

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2 cups (7 oz/198 g) pecans 1 tablespoon (15 ml) pure vanilla extract 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 oz/142 g) 2 tablespoons (30 ml) bourbon unsalted butter, divided 2 tablespoons (30 ml) heavy cream 1 teaspoon (6 g) salt, divided 1 large egg (1.75 oz/50 g) 1 cup (3 oz/85 g) old-fashioned or 11⁄4 cups (5.5 oz/156 g) spooned and leveled quick-cooking oats bleached all-purpose flour 1⁄4 cup (1.6 oz/45 g) butter-flavored 1 teaspoon (5 g) baking soda shortening 1 teaspoon (2 g) ground cinnamon 1 cup (7.7 oz/218 g) light brown sugar, 1⁄2 teaspoon (1 g) freshly grated nutmeg packed Nonstick cooking spray, optional

1. Arrange a shelf in the center of the oven and preheat to 350ºF/177ºC. 2. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. While they are hot, stir in 2 table- spoons (1 oz/28 g) of the butter and sprinkle with 1⁄4 teaspoon (1.5 g) of the salt. When cool, coarsely chop and set aside. 3. Process the oats in a food processor with the steel blade for about 10 seconds.

4. With a mixer, in a bowl, beat the remaining 1⁄2 cup (4 oz/113 g) butter, the shortening, and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla, bourbon, and cream. Add the egg and beat just to blend.

5. In a mixing bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, the remaining 3⁄4 teaspoon (4.5 g) salt, the cinnamon, and nutmeg. On the lowest speed, add flour mixture into butter mixture in several por- tions. Stir in the oats and pecans by hand. 6. Cover a baking sheet with Release foil (nonstick side up) or parchment sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Drop by heaping tablespoons or with a 11⁄2-inch (#40) ice cream scoop onto the bak- ing sheet. Bake one sheet at a time for about 10 minutes, until puffy and lightly browned on the edges. Allow to cool on the sheet for 2 minutes, and then remove to a cooling rack.

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Index

A almond(s) angel food , 217–219 Croustade, 281–282 ingredients for, 218 acesulfame K, 77, 78 Financiers, 230–231 Mimi’s Magnificent Angel Food acid(s) Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut Cake, 218–219 in baking powder, 46 Paste, 291 proportions for, 217 with baking soda, 46 Hazelnut-Almond techniques for, 218 buffers in cream and, 65 Layers with Silky Crème angel pies, 183, 279 leavening, reaction times of, 47 Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, antioxidants in cocoa powder, 111 acidic ingredients, 64–67 178–180 apples with baking soda, 49 Hazelnut-Almond Soft Bill Greenwood’s Great Dome cocoa powder as, 109, 427 , 180–181 with a Braided Base, in flourless cakes, 64–67 Heavenly Mocha Hazelnut- 327–328 list of, 68 Almond Meringue Cake, 182 Croustade, 281–282 in pastry crusts, 355 Lace Cookies, 378 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut protein cooking speed and, 355, quantity and weight measures Muffins, 129–131 393, 399 of, 496 dried. See dried apples setting of cakes and, 61, 64, 65, Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 110 Serious , 27–29 308 spread of cookies and, 404, Take-Your-Breath-Away Lemon quantity and weight measures 427 , 25–27 of, 496 active dry yeast, 477, 478 almond bark, 90 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful quantity and weight measures almond flour Morning Glory Muffins, of, 496 Financiers, 230–231 80–81 Alberger process, 481–482 quantity and weight measures Turkey Filling, 258 alitame, 77, 78 of, 495 applesauce all-purpose flour Simplified La Joconde, 234–235 Pop Corriher’s Original bleached vs. unbleached, 60 alpha-amylase , 51–52 characteristics of, 60 inactivation of, 335 Shirley’s Version of Pop in cookies, 385 thinning of dishes with egg yolks Corriher’s Original Apple- Gold Medal, 60, 62, 63 and, 110, 335 sauce Cake, 54–55 , 82, 461, 477, 478 alternative nutritive sweeteners, 76 apricots Northern specialty blended, amaretti cookies Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, 253 372, 377, 385 The Creamiest Ever Amaretto artificial sweeteners, 77–81 protein content of, 372, , 333–335 ascorbic acid in bread, 432, 480 376–377 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, ash in flour, 476 quantity and weight measures 312–314 aspartame, 77, 78 of, 31, 495 amaretto liqueur at-a-glance summary charts Southern. See Southern all- The Creamiest Ever Amaretto chemical leaveners, 59 purpose flour Cheesecake, 333–335 chocolate, 108 Southwestern, 372, 385 ammonium bicarbonate cocoa powder, 117 allspice, quantity and weight in cookies, 402 color, 424 measures of, 497 for pâte à choux, 243 cookie problems, 424, 425

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at-a-glance summary charts (cont.) spreading by folding dough, 441 leavening process and, 46–47 creaming cake mixing method, temperature and, 434, 478–479 quantity and weight measures 123 bakeware, 6 of, 496 egg-white foams, 194 baking rings, 294 baking stones, 2, 4–5 fat in cookies, 392 changing size of pans, 49, 128 for bread, 443 fine-tuning cookies, 428 cookie sheets, 374, 420 for cakes, 135 flour in cookies, 385 muffin pan sizes and, 128 for pâte à choux, 244 génoise, 228 pans for pound cakes, 15 position for, 4–5 , 194 for pastry crusts, 293–294 rise and, 135, 443 pastry crusts, 309 springform pan sizes, 271 bananas pâte à choux, 262 baking Moist Banana Nut Bread, soufflés, 208 bread, 443 137–138 sugar in cookies, 397 brownies, at high temperature, barley flour, malted, in bread, 432 whipped cream, 321 410 barley malt syrup, 477 autolysis, 435–441 cakes. See baking cakes bar sugar, 168 cookies, 374, 420, 424 bâtards B génoise, 223 Straight Dough with Autolysis high-altitude, 50, 110 Bâtards, 438–439 bacteria in bread dough, 434, meringues, 191 beading of meringues, 189 479–480 pâte à choux, 244 beaters for egg whites, 167 baguettes pies. See baking pies beating after adding eggs, crust Baguettes Made with Poolish, baking cakes, 135–140 created on cookies and 448–450 baking stones for, 2, 4–5, 135 brownies by, 409–410, 423 flour for, 62 determining doneness and, 136 beating egg whites, 166–167 slashes for, 442 rise and, 135 copper bowl for, 172 Straight Dough with Autolysis shape and, 136–140 cream of tartar for, 172 Baguettes, 436–438 texture and, 136 overbeating, 167 Baker, Harry, 231 baking chocolate, 86 Beauchamp, Gary, 407 baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 33, baking pies, 323–328 beef 34–36, 238 blind, 294, 325–326 Piroshkis, 362–363 for roulade, 238 double-crusted pies, 327 in Turkey Filling, 258 baker’s percentages, 32, 34, 432 with filling in, 323–325 beet sugar, 146 for biga, 452, 455 baking powder, 46 Bennion, E. B., on amount of yolks for cakes, 32, 34–35 amount of, 56 for génoise, 220 for poolish, 448 brands of, 46 Beranbaum, Rose Levy for straight dough with changing pan size and, 49 on baking powder amounts, 49 autolysis, 436 checking potency of, 48 on cake mixing methods, 126 baker’s sugar, 168 composition of, 46 flour preference of, 63 baker’s yeast, 477–479 in cookies, 402, 404 on pâte à choux, 242–243 action of, 442 double-acting, 46 on sizes of pastry crusts, 293 active dry, 477, 478 flour type with, 57 on surface for rolling pastry, 287 baking powder with, 480 leavening process and, 46–47 berry sugar, 168 care of, 478 making one’s own, 48 biga, 452–459 conversions for, 478 quantity and weight measures baker’s percentages for, 452, 455 food for, 478 of, 496 Basic Dough Made with Biga, 456 fresh (cake), 477, 478 baking rings, 294 Biga, 452–453 instant (RapidRise, Quick-Rise), baking sheets, 374, 420 Biga (50% Water), 455 477, 478, 496 baking soda, 46 Ciabatta with Biga, 453–454 order of adding to bread dough, with acid ingredients, 46 Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 485 alkalizing cocoa powder with, 111 Fougasse with Biga, 457–458 pre-ferments with, 447–459 amount of, 48–57, 55–57 , 151–154. See sponge cakes quantity and weight measures checking potency of, 48 Shirley Corriher’s “Touch-of- of, 496 in cookies, 402–403 Grace” Southern Biscuits, spices and, 479, 480 flour type with, 57 152–153

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bitterness, suppression of, by salt, bread crumbs, for dry, crisp pastry corn syrup and, 79, 392, 397, 345, 407, 481 crust, 304–305 423 bittersweet chocolate, 86, 87 bread flour fat and, 392 black pepper, quantity and weight in cookies, 385 leaveners and, 404, 423 measures of, 497 for pâte à choux, 242 protein in flour and, 423 bleached flour, characteristics of, 62 protein content of, 372, 469 sugar and, 73, 392 blending cake mixing method, quantity and weight measures brown sugar, 76, 77 126–127 of, 495 in brownies, 415 blind-baking pastry crusts, 294, bread-making methods, 444–467 in cookies, 397 325–326 pre-ferments with baker’s yeast, hygroscopic nature of, 393, 397, right-side up, 326 447–459 423 upside down, 326 sourdough starters (wild yeast quantity and weight measures blueberries levain), 459–467 of, 495 Blueberries and Cream Muffins, straight dough, 435–441, spread of cookies and, 393 131–132 444–446 building sourdough starters, Blueberries with Honey bread-making techniques, 432–468 466–467 Mascarpone Cream in autolysis, 435–441 bulk, sugar and, 73 Walnut-Oat Meringue, baking, 443 Bundt pan for pound cakes, 15 183–184 dough temperature and, butter Chef Heather Hurlbert’s 434–435 Buttery Jelly-Jeweled Cookies, Magnificent Moist Whipped folding vs. punching down, 441 386–387 Cream Pound Cake, 20–21 kneading, 433, 479–480 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 cooking for pies, 311 rounding (preshaping), 441–442 color of cookies and, 392 Judy Brady’s Blueberries and slashing, 442 combining egg-white foams Bordeaux, 269–271 brioche with, for buttercreams, 209, quantity and weight measures The Ultimate Brioche I: Light, 210 of, 496 Airy, Bread-Like Brioche, in cookies, 384, 392, 426 Bob’s Red Mill’s dark rye flour, 460 486–487 for crumb crusts, 268 Bordeaux cookies The Ultimate Brioche II: Buttery, cutting for pastry crusts, Bordeaux Macadamia Crust, Cake-Like Brioche, 301–302 268–269 488–489 Diamond-Edged Melt-in-Your- Judy Brady’s Blueberries and brownies, 407–416 Mouth Butter Cookies, Bordeaux, 269–271 allowing batter to mellow before 388–389 baking and, 410 fat content of, 346 Shirley’s Boston Cream Pie, 43 brown sugar in, 415 flavor of, 350 boules cake-like vs. fudge-like, 410 ganache with, 98–99 Rustic Boules Made with chocolate for, 414–415 for génoise, 221 Poolish, 450–452 cocoa powder in, 415 leavening and, 69–70 Sourdough Rustic Boules, crust on, 409 quantity and weight measures 466–467 cutting, 410 of, 496 bourbon firm vs. soft, 415 for snail butter, 259 Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal high-temperature baking of, 410 spread of cookies and, 384, 426 Cookies, 380–382 history of, 408 temperature of, for creaming Chocolate Pecan with a ingredients in, 407 cake mixing method, 122 Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 Shirley’s Cakey Brownies, type used in this book, 6 Lane Cake Filling, 45 413–414 buttercream(s), 208–217 Lane Cake Soaking Solution, Shirley’s Fudgy Brownies, crème anglaise (custard-based), 45 411–412 215–217 bread(s). See also quick breads; sugar in, 415–416 curdling of, 210 sourdough starters; yeast Super Rich Espresso Brownies, as emulsions, 210 breads 415–416 French, 210, 213–215 in Simply Wonderful Strata— browning ingredients for, 208–209 Browned Billows of Cheesy artificial sweeteners and, 79 Swiss and Italian, 209–213 Puff, 201 of cookies, 392, 404, 423, 424 techniques for, 209

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buttercream icings, 145–150 powder; baking soda; emulsion, 135 Basic Confectioners’ Sugar chemical leaveners goals of, 119 Buttercream, 148–149 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake to incorporate fine bubbles into Crusting Confectioners’ Sugar (Creaming Method), batter, 119 Buttercream, 149–150 124–126 lightness and, 120 smoothing, 146, 149, 150 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake muffin, 57–58, 129–134. See buttermilk (Dissolved-Sugar Method), also muffin(s) with baking soda, 49 37–38 single-stage (dump, one-bowl, color of pastry crusts made Magnificent Moist Golden Cake or quick-mix), 128 with, 355 (Two-Stage Method), sugar/flour batter, 135 curdling of, 35 126–127 texture and, 120 Greenwood’s Great Buttermilk mixing methods for. See cake two-stage (blending or pastry Crust, 347–349 mixing methods blend), 126–127 tenderness of pastry crusts made moist, using formulas to create, cake yeast, 477, 478 with, 355 32, 34–36 Calvel, Raymond, on lecithin in butter slicers, 301 Pop Corriher’s Original bread, 480 Applesauce Cake, 51–52 candied fruit C pound. See pound cake(s) French Cake aux Fruits, Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 139–140 cake(s) Serious Stuff , cane sugar, 146 angel food. See angel food cakes 84–85 carbon dioxide released by bad recipes for, spotting, 32 Shirley’s Boston Cream Pie, 43 chemical leaveners, 46–47 baker’s formulas for, 29–31, 32, Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 cardamom, yeast activity and, 479 33, 34–36, 238 Shirley’s Not-the-Traditional carrots baker’s percentages for, 32, Lane Cake, 44–45 Golden, Moist , 34–35 Shirley’s Version of Pop 71–72 baking. See baking cakes Corriher’s Original quantity and weight measures balancing recipes for, 12–13 Applesauce Cake, 54–55 of, 497 chocolate. See chocolate cakes slicing into layers, 39 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning creating recipes for, 32, 34–36 sponge. See sponge cakes Glory Muffins, 80–81 Dinner-on-the-Grounds storing, 54, 150 cayenne pepper, quantity and , 40–41 testing for doneness, 136 weight measures of, 497 eggless, 82–85 variations in composition of cereals, for crusts, 267 flourless, 64–67 ingredients for, 31 chalazae foam. See angel food cakes; wrapping, 150 freshness of eggs and, 166 chiffon cakes; génoise; cake flour, 30 removing, 65 sponge cakes acidity of, 68 Chambord French Cake aux Fruits, baker’s formulas with, 30 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 139–140 characteristics of, 60–61 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, goals for different types of, 32 chlorination of, 30, 61 145 Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, in cookies, 385 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles 71–72 flavor and, 61, 343 with Chambord and Hazelnut-Almond Meringue for génoise, 220–221 Macadamia Dust, 103–104 Layers with Silky Crème leavening with, 57 Strawberry-Chambord Sauce, Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, protein content of, 372 89–90 178–180 quantity and weight measures cheddar cheese Hazelnut-Almond Soft of, 31, 495 Crispy, Flakey Cheese Coins, Dacquoise, 180–181 texture and, 61 403–404 Heavenly Mocha Hazelnut- cake levelers, 39 Flakey Cheddar Crust, 354–355 Almond Meringue Cake, 182 cake mixing methods, 119–135 Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, high-ratio, 30–31, 69, 124 creaming (sugar/batter, sugar- 308 intentionally underdone, 136 shortening, or conventional), in pastry crusts, 353, 354 lean (regular shortened), 30 120–126 Rooster’s Famous Fire Crackers, leaveners for. See baking dissolved-sugar, 77, 134 391

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cheese. See also cheddar cheese; chiffon cakes, 231–233 ratio of flour to, brownie texture cream cheese; goat cheese; Lemon-Orange Cream Chiffon and, 410 Gorgonzola cheese; Gruyère Cake, 232–233 Religieuses (Little Nuns), cheese; mascarpone cheese; chlorination of cake flour, 30, 61 251–252 Montrachet cheese; chocolate, 85–119 ribbons, 118–119 mozzarella cheese; Parmesan at-a-glance summary chart for, Roasted Pecan Chocolate Chip cheese; Swiss cheese 108 Cookies, 375–376 in pastry crusts, 353–355 alkalizing cocoa powder with sculptures in ice made of, 87–89 , 333–335 baking soda to get deep color seizing of. See seizing of The Creamiest Ever Amaretto and, 111 chocolate Cheesecake, 333–335 Bali’s Alabaster Chocolate semisweet, 86, 87 Herbed Parmesan Cheesecake, Tower, 88–89 Shirley’s Cakey Brownies, 341–342 bittersweet, 86, 87 413–414 chemical leaveners, 46–59. See also bloom on, 91 Shirley’s Corrupted Black Gold, baking powder; baking soda in brownies, 407–416 401–402 at-a-glance summary chart, 59 buttercream icings, 150 Shirley’s Fudgy Brownies, ammonium bicarbonate, 243, 402 cakes. See chocolate cakes 411–412 amount to use, 48–49 care of, 90–91 Simple Chocolate Mousse, 96 artificial sweeteners and, 79 chocolate chip development, spread of cookies and, 427 buying, 47 373–374 Super Rich Espresso Brownies, checking potency of, 48 Chocolate Cream Puffs, 250 415–416 color of cookies and, 404 Chocolate Crinkle Cookies, tempering. See tempering in cookies, 402–407 395–396 chocolate determining amount of, 35 combining with other thin, 88 distribution of, 16, 57–59 ingredients, 104 types of, 86–88 excess, in cakes, 50–57 compound, 117 unsweetened (baking), 86 excess, in cookies, 402–403, cooling rapidly, 106–107 white. See white chocolate 404–407 couverture, 87, 88 chocolate cakes in high-altitude baking, 50 dark, 87, 105 Chocolate-on-Chocolate: Dark leavening process and, 46–47 description of, 85 Moist Cake with Chocolate- measuring, 47–48 E-Z Delicious Chocolate-Nut Walnut Frosting, 113–114 quantity and weight measures Crust, 278–279 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a of, 496 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 reaction times of acids in, 47 with Chambord and Chocolate-Walnut Frosted in self-rising flour. See self-rising Macadamia Dust, 103–104 Golden , 41–42 flour Featherlight Meringue Spheres Deep, Dark , spread of cookies and, 404, 427 with Silky Crème Anglaise 112–113 storing, 48 Coffee Buttercream and Deep, Dark Chocolate Cake types of, 46 Chocolate, 176–177 with Ganache and Chocolate cherries and cherry preserves flourless cakes with, 64–67 Ruffles, 116 Cherries and More Cherries, forms of, 90 “Flourless” Luscious, Decadent Cherry Pie with Streusel ganache. See ganache Chocolate Torte, 66–67 Topping, 316–318 Heavenly Mocha Hazelnut- Improved Tunnel of Fudge Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 Almond Meringue Cake, 182 Cake, 74–75 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, high-percentage, 87, 94, 101 Intense Chocolate Lava Cakes, 145 Lava Cookies, 400–401 229–230 Dark, Sweet Bing Cherry Pie Luscious, Creamy Chocolate Satin-Glazed Midnight Black with Pastry Lattice, 314–315 Icing, 143–144 Chocolate Cake, 115 Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 melting, 92–93, 105, 106 Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 Streusel Topping, 317–318 Memorable Silky Chocolate chocolate chips, semisweet, chicken Meringue Pie, 336–337 quantity and weight Real Homemade Chicken Pot milk, 90, 105 measures of, 497 Pie, 366–368 overheating, 92 chocolate liquor, 86 in Turkey Filling, 258 production of, 85–86 chocolate mass, 86

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ciabatta Dinner-on-the-Grounds Delicate French Meringue, Ciabatta with Biga, 453–454 Coconut Cake, 40–41 175–176 cinnamon Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Diamond-Edged Melt-in-Your- quantity and weight measures Glory Muffins, 80–81 Mouth Butter Cookies, of, 497 coffee 388–389 yeast activity and, 479 Coffee Cream Puffs, 250 drop, 417 Clabber Girl baking powder, 46 Espresso Syrup, 236 E-Z Delicious Peanut Butter cloves, quantity and weight mocha buttercream icings, 150 Cookies, 383–384 measures of, 497 Mocha Glaze, 252 fat in. See fat in cookies coarse sucrose in cookies, 397 Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 Featherlight Meringue Spheres Cobasan, 319 Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee with Silky Crème Anglaise cocoa butter Buttercream, 216–217 Coffee Buttercream and Bali’s Alabaster Chocolate Super Rich Espresso Brownies, Chocolate, 176–177 Tower, 88–89 415–416 with flour and other grains, in chocolate, 85, 87 color. See also browning 379–383 in cocoa powder, 109 at-a-glance summary chart, flour for. See flour for cookies crystallization of, 104–105. See 424 flourless, 383–384 also tempering chocolate of baking sheets, 420 Grandmother’s Pecan forms of, 107 of cakes, cocoa powder and, Macaroons, 398 melting chocolate and, 106 109, 111 Great Grandmother Schorr’s source of, 88 of pastry crusts, 355, 356 Moravian Molasses Cookies, in white chocolate, 88 compound coatings, 117 418–419 cocoa-derived products, FDA stan- conalbumin, 172 hydration of dough for, dards of identity for, 91 confectioners’ sugar 374–375 cocoa powder, 108–112 for buttercream icings, 145, 146 Lace Cookies, 377–378 at-a-glance summary chart for, in cookies, 397 Laura Berry’s Extra-Crunchy 117 quantity and weight measures Oatmeal Cookies, 382–383 acidity of, 68, 109, 427 of, 496 Lava Cookies, 400–401 alkalizing with baking soda, 111 conventional cake mixing method. leaveners in, 402–407 antioxidants in, 111 See creaming cake mixing low-flour, 377–378 in brownies, 415 method meringues, 175–177, 399 chocolate cakes with. See cookie(s), 369–428. See also mixing, 416–417 chocolate cakes cracker(s); graham crackers; Old New England Hermit Bars, cocoa butter content of, 109 saltine crackers 405–407 color of cakes and, 109 at-a-glance summary chart, Original Toll House Chocolate dark chocolate color and, 428 Chip Cookies, 373–374 111–116 amaretti. See amaretti cookies refrigerator, 417 dissolving in hot liquids, 110 baking, 374, 420, 424 Roasted Pecan Chocolate Chip dryness of products made with, Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies, 375–376 110 Cookies, 380–382 rolled, 417–418 Dutch process, 68, 109–110, 111 brownies. See brownies salt in, 407 in high-altitude baking, 110 Buttery Jelly-Jeweled Cookies, shaping, 417–418 Mocha Glaze, 252 386–387 Shirley’s Corrupted Black Gold, natural, 68, 109, 111 Chocolate Crinkle Cookies, 401–402 pH of, 68, 109, 427 395–396 snowflake cookies, 419 quantity and weight measures Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal spread of. See spread of of, 497 Cookies, 379–380 cookies spread of cookies and, 427 cooling, 374 stained glass, 387 substituting for flour, 64–67, Cracked-Surface Crunchy sugar in. See sugar in cookies 110, 427 Gingersnaps, 394 Taste Sensation Lemon-White working with, 110–117 cracked surface on, 393–394 Chocolate Butter Cookies, coconut crisp, 423 389–390 Betty McCool’s Ole Time with crunchy surface and gooey texture of, leaveners and, 405 Coconut Soaking Solution, 41 center, 395–396 Wedding Cookies, 422

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cookie crumbs, 266–278 color of pastry crust made with, duration of creaming and, crusts. See crumb crusts 355 122–123 Dark, Sweet Bing Cherry Pie in cookies, browning and, 392, gluten development in, 123–124 with Pastry Lattice, 314–315 397, 423 insufficient blending of leaveners Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, for crumb crusts, 268 and flour in, 123 312–314 in ganache, 97, 99–100 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake Rolled-In Crumbs Crust, cottonseed oil, compound coatings (Creaming Method), 324–325 made from, 117 124–126 “cookie crusts,” 351 couverture, 87 pitfalls in, 122–123 cookie cutters, snowflake, 418, 419 cows, breed of, whipping cream creaming step in cookie making, 416 cookie problems and, 319 cream of tartar at-a-glance summary charts, crabmeat in baking powder, 46 424, 425 Great Shell with Fresh Crabmeat for egg-white foams, 172, 218 crumbling, 373 and Sweet Creamed Corn, making one’s own baking crumbly cookies, 421–422 364–365 powder using, 48 limp cookies, 423 cracker(s). See also graham quantity and weight measures overbaking, 424 crackers; saltine crackers of, 497 pale colored cookies, 423, 424 Crispy, Flakey Cheese Coins, reaction time of, 47 shiny crust, 423 403–404 cream pies, 335–339 sticking, 424 Rooster’s Famous Fire Crackers, Butterscotch Meringue Pie, cookie sheets, 374, 420 391 338–339 cooling. See also temperature cracker crumbs for crusts, 267 Memorable Silky Chocolate of chocolate, rapid, 106–107 cracking eggs, 165 Meringue Pie, 336–337 of cookies, 374 crazy cake, 82–84 Rum Cream Pie, 276 copper bowl for beating egg whites, Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 temperature for cooking fillings 172 cream. See also heavy cream; sour for, 335 corn cream; whipped cream crème anglaise buttercreams, All-Time Favorite E-Z, buffers in, acidity of batter and, 215–217 Dee-licious Sour Cream 65 Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Cornbread, 157 cream cheese Buttercream, 216–217 Great Shell with Fresh Crabmeat Carrot Cake Cream Cheese Crisco. See also shortening and Sweet Creamed Corn, Icing, 72 leavening and, 69, 70 364–365 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 crispness cornmeal Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, of cookies, 423 All-Time Favorite E-Z, 145 sugar and, 73 Dee-licious Sour Cream Cream Cheese Crust, 288–289 croissants Cornbread, 157 The Creamiest Ever Amaretto Flakey, Buttery Croissants, Anadama Bread, 474–475 Cheesecake, 333–335 490–494 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, crumb 158–159 274–275 liquid and, 31 quantity and weight measures Herbed Parmesan Cheesecake, muffin cake mixing method and, of, 495 341–342 129–134 cornstarch icings made with, 144–145 sugar and, 31, 73 in buttercream icings, 146 quantity and weight measures crumb crusts, 267–278 clouding of dishes prepared of, 496 Bordeaux Macadamia Crust, with, on refrigeration, 311 Simple Cream Cheese Icing, 84 268–269 for meringues, 173, 186, 190 tenderness of pastry crusts made Chocolate Cookie Crumb Crust, quantity and weight measures with, 353 275–276 of, 497 White Chocolate Cream Cheese Cracker-Nut Crust, 273 corn syrup, 76, 77 Icing, 144–145 Gingersnap-Pecan Crust, for browning when using Cream Glaze for Pound Cake, 24 277–278 artificial sweeteners, 79 creaming cake mixing method, ingredients for, 267–268 in buttercreams, 147 120–126 Judy Brady’s Blueberries and for chocolate ribbons, 118 at-a-glance summary chart, 123 Bordeaux, 269–271

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crumb crusts (cont.) Dimick, Paul, 92, 105, 106, 107 separating, 165–166 Modern Basic Honey Graham dissolved-sugar cake mixing temperature of, for creaming Crumb Crusts, 271 method, 77, 134 cake mixing method, 122 Monroe Boston Strause’s Crumb Magnificent Moist Golden Cake type used in this book, 6 Crust, 272 (Dissolved-Sugar Method), warming, 6 crust(s) 37–38 weight of, 35, 496 crumb. See crumb crusts “docking” pastry crusts, 294 egg foam. See also egg-white foams meringue, 183–184, 279 Dodge, Jim, flatten-on-the-counter adding fat to, 223 pastry. See pastry crusts technique of, 302 folding flour into, 223 phyllo, 279–285 doneness, testing cakes for, 136 for génoise, beating, 222 press-in-the-pan, 278–279 double-acting baking powder, 46 eggs in cookies, 397–402 crust on cookies and brownies, double-crusted pies, baking, 327 beating after adding, crust 409–410, 423 double-icing technique, 141–142 formation and, 409, 423 curdling dried apples setting of cookies and, 399 of buttercreams, 210 Old New England Hermit Bars, spread and, 399, 427 of buttermilk, 35 405–407 as structural ingredient, of low-fat dairy products, quantity and weight measures 397–399 preventing, 329 of, 496 whole eggs, egg whites, and egg prevention of, by cornstarch, dried egg whites, 166 yolks and, 399–402 328–329, 335 dried fruit egg white(s) custard(s), 328–335 Old New England Hermit Bars, beating, 166–167 cheesecakes, 333–335 405–407 in cookies, 399 Crème Anglaise, 331 drop cookies, 417 copper bowl for beating, 172 Custard Pie Supreme, 332–333 dry mustard cream of tartar for beating, Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtis- quantity and weight measures 172 sière), 330 of, 497 dried, 166 texture of, 331–332 yeast activity and, 479 as drying agents, 12, 81 custard buttercreams, 215–217 dump cake mixing method, 128 fat in, 166 Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee durum flour. See semolina flour freshness of, determining, 166 Buttercream, 216–217 Dutch process cocoa powder, 68, frozen, 166 custard pies, 323, 328–335 109–110. See also cocoa as leavening agents, 81 Custard Pie Supreme, 332–333 powder overbeating, 167 cutting brownies, 410 antioxidants in, 111 in pastry crusts, 356 cyclamates, 77, 78 quantity and weight measures for pâte à choux, 242 of, 497 salmonella in, killing, 184–186 D separating eggs and, 165–166 E warming, for meringue, dark chocolate, 87 190–192 tempering, 105 egg(s). See also egg white(s); egg weight of, 496 date(s) yolks egg-white foams, 164–241 Lane Cake Filling, 45 adding in creaming cake mixing at-a-glance summary chart, Old New England Hermit Bars, method, 121 194 405–407 adding to cookie dough, 416 buttercreams and. See quantity and weight measures in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, buttercream(s) of, 496 33, 34–36 combining with butter for date-nut bread crumbs in cake recipes, 12, 81–85 buttercreams, 209, 210 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, chalazae of, 65, 166 foam cakes and. See angel food 312–314 in cookies. See eggs in cookies cakes; chiffon cakes; génoise; decorating pastry crusts, 295 cracking, 165 sponge cakes dental tape for slicing cakes into high-altitude baking and, 50 handling eggs and, 165–167 layers, 39 need for acid to set, 61, 64, 65, how they work, 164–165 Diamond Crystal kosher salt, 7, 110 meringues and. See meringue(s); 481–482 for pâte à choux, 242 soft pie meringues diastatic malt extract, 477 salmonella in, killing, 184–186 soufflés and. See soufflés

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egg yolks combining with flour for tender with cake flour, 61, 343 in cookies, 399 pastry crusts, 296, 297 of fat, 349, 350 as emulsifiers, 81 in cookies. See fat in cookies fat as carrier of, 16, 69, 121 in génoise, 220 crystal size and type in, 349 fat in cookies and, 385–390 in pastry crusts, 356 determining combination of, 35 flour and, 62 salmonella in, killing, 102, 104, emulsifiers in, 30, 69 kneading bread and, 433 184 fat content of, 346 of lard, 349 separating eggs and, 165–166 as flavor carrier, 16, 69, 121 lecithin in bread and, 480 thinning of dishes with, 110, flavor of, 349, 350 salt and, 345, 407, 481 335 grain and, 31 sugar and, 73 weight of, 496 interference with gluten temperature of bread dough emulsifiers formation, 372–373, 421, and, 434 egg yolks as, 81 485 flavorings in fats, 30, 69 leavening and, 69–70, 390 adding to fat, 121 lecithin as, 480 mouthfeel and, 31 for buttercreams, 147 shortenings with. See Crisco; for pastry crusts, 345–350 flour, 60–64 shortening for pâte à choux, 243 adding in creaming cake mixing emulsion(s), 210 quantity and weight measures method, 121–122, 123–124 buttercreams as, 210 of, 496 all-purpose. See all-purpose in ganache, 102 ratio to flour, brownie texture flour emulsion cake mixing method, 135 and, 410 available to home cooks, 372, English toffee ratio to flour, in pastry crust, 340 377 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut ratio to flour, spread of cookies in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, Muffins, 129–131 and, 426 33, 34–36 E-Z Delicious Peanut Butter solid vs. liquid, 69 barley, malted, in bread, 432 Cookies, 383–384 spread of cookies and, 426 bleached vs. unbleached, 62–63 quantity and weight measures tenderness and, 69, 70, 345 bread. See bread flour of, 497 waterproofing of crusts by, 345, cake. See cake flour Equal, 77, 78 351 in cake recipes, 12 equipment. See also specific pieces weight of, 35 combining fat with, liquid of equipment whipping cream and, 319 absorption by pastry crusts sources for, 507–509 fat bloom, 91 and, 351 espresso. See coffee fat in bread, 485–494 combining with fat for flakey extracts for buttercreams, 147 layered doughs and, 490–494 pastry crusts, 301–302 order of adding to dough, 485 combining with fat for tender F temperature and, 490 pastry crusts, 296, 297 fat in cookies, 384–392 in cookies. See flour for cookies fat(s), 69–72. See also butter; lard; at-a-glance summary chart, 392 in eggless cakes, 82 margarine; shortening; solid color and, 392 flavor and, 62 fats flavor and, 385–390 folding into egg foam, 223 adding to egg foam, 223 spread and, 384 for génoise, 220–221 as aerators, 390 texture and, 390–392 high-protein. See high-protein in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, fermentation, temperature for, 434 flour 33, 34–36 fillings instant. See instant flour beating egg whites and, 166 Lane Cake Filling, 45 measuring, 6 in bread. See fat in bread Lemon Curd, 284 milling of, 469 for buttercreams, 147 flakiness pastry. See pastry flour in cake recipes, 12 of pastry crusts, 296, 301–308, for pastry crusts, 343–345 coating of flour by, 345–346 346, 347, 349–350 for pâte à choux, 242 combining with flour, of yeast breads, 490–494 protein content of, 62, 343, absorption of liquid by flan rings for pastry crusts, 294 371–373, 377, 403, pastry crust and, 351 flavor 468–470. See also high- combining with flour for flakey of brownies, brown sugar and, protein flour; low-protein pastry crusts, 301–302 415 flour

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flour (cont.) foam cakes, 217–241. See also Dark, Sweet Bing Cherry Pie for puff pastry, 357 angel food cakes; chiffon with Pastry Lattice, 314–315 quantity and weight measures cakes; génoise; sponge cakes Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, of, 495 focaccia 308 ratio of fat and chocolate to, Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 glazed fresh fruit for, 309–310 brownie texture and, 410 folding bread dough, 441 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, ratio of fat to, in pastry crust, folding flour into egg foam, 223 312–314 340 food for yeast, 478 lattice for, 314–315 ratio of fat to, spread of cookies food processor pastry cutouts for, 312–314 and, 426 flakey pastry crusts mixed by, streusel topping for, 316–318 regional differences in, 469 305–306 whipped cream toppings for, role in cakes, 60 tender pastry crusts mixed by, 318–323 rye. See rye flour 297–298 fruit preserves self-rising. See self-rising flour Form V and VI crystals, 105 Buttery Jelly-Jeweled Cookies, semolina. See semolina flour fougasse 386–387 sequence of combining Fougasse with Biga, 457–458 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 ingredients for cookies and, Straight Dough with Autolysis Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, 426 Fougasse, 439–441 145 spread of cookies and, 426 free-form soufflés, 204–205 Salzburger Nockerl, 204–205 substituting cocoa powder for, French buttercreams Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, 64–67, 110, 427 lightened, Italian meringue as, 253 tapioca. See tapioca starch 215 fruit tarts (tapioca flour) Silky French Buttercream à la Lemon Tartlets, 283–284 texture and, 60 Roland Mesnier, 214–215 Pear Tart with Frangipane in types of, 60–63 French meringues Puff Pastry, 360–361 types used in this book, 6 Delicate French Meringue, Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 water to produce gluten in 175–176 Rustic Pear Tart, 289–291 cookie dough and, 421, 426 Featherlight Meringue Spheres weight of, 31, 34, 495 with Silky Crème Anglaise G flour for bread, 431, 468–476. See Coffee Buttercream and also bread flour Chocolate, 176–177 ganache, 95–102 ash content of, 476 French rolling pins, 287 with butter, 98–99 barley, malted, 477 freshness of egg whites, corn syrup in, 97, 99–100 choosing type of, 470–471 determining, 166 emulsions in, 102 gluten formation and, fresh yeast, 477, 478 failure of, 100–101 468–469 frostings. See buttercream(s); icings firm, 95 with malted barley flour added, and frostings; toppings medium, 95 477 frozen egg whites, 166 Satin-Smooth Ganache Glaze, other than wheat, 473–475 fruit. See also candied fruit; dried 99–100 protein content of, 468–470 fruit; specific fruits Shiny Ganache Glaze, 97 regional differences in, 469 cooked, for pies, 310–311 Simple Chocolate Mousse, 96 vital wheat gluten in, 476 fresh, glazed, for pies, soft, 95 whole-grain, 475–476 309–310 techniques for, 100–102 flour for cookies, 372–373 preservation of shape by sugar, Velvety Ganache Glaze, 98–99 at-a-glance summary chart, 385 73 gelatin browning and, 423 quantity and weight measures quantity and weight measures protein content of, 371–373, of, 496 of, 497 377 fruit pies as stabilizer for whipped cream, substituting types of, 373–374 Bill Greenwood’s Great Dome 320 variations in, 376–377 with a Braided Base, génoise, 219–231 flourless cakes, 64–67 327–328 at-a-glance summary chart, 228 chocolate, 64–67 Clide Ogletree’s Famous baking, 223 flourless cookies, 383–384 Strawberry Pie, 322–323 Delicate Hazelnut Génoise, 227 fluting pastry crusts, 295 cooked fruit for, 310–311 Financiers, 230–231

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Improved Génoise, 224–226 extensibility of, 470–471 cracked surface on cookies and, ingredients for, 220–221 fat’s interference with formation 393–396 Intense Chocolate Lava Cakes, of, 372–373, 421, 485 quantity and weight measures 229–230 flour types and, 60, 61, 468–469 of, 496 proportions for, 220 formation of, 343, 353 Greenwood, Bill techniques for, 221–223 with high-protein flour, 372 on meringue, 190–192 ginger insufficient to hold cookies on pies, 266 Cracked-Surface Crunchy together, 373, 421 Gruyère cheese Gingersnaps, 394 limiting amount formed in Easy—Without Foam—Soufflé, quantity and weight measures cakes, 18–19, 120, 123–124 199–200 of, 497 limiting amount formed in pastry Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Sweet Pears and Crunchy, crusts, 343, 345–346, 353 Rice Spoon Bread, Roasted Walnut Muffins, need for wheat flour to obtain, 159–160 133–134 473 Gougères—Magnificent Little yeast activity and, 479 in puff pastry, 356, 357 Bits of Cheese Clouds, gingerbread roughness of pastry crust caused 255–257 Serious Stuff Gingerbread, 84–85 by, 343 Incredibly Creamy Soufflés, Gisslen, Wayne shrinking of pastry crust and, 206–207 on beating egg foam for génoise, 343 Simply Wonderful Strata— 222 strengthening and tightening of, Browned Billows of Cheesy nut meringue recipes of, 178 by salt, 481 Puff, 201 glass, heatproof, precautions with, sugar’s interference with Soufflé Magnifique!, 196–198 5 formation of, 350, 372–373, glass pie dishes, 293–294 421, 485 H glazes vital wheat gluten, 476 Cream Glaze for Pound Cake, 24 water absorption differences in ham Lemon Glaze, 26–27 flour and, 468 Simply Wonderful Strata— Mocha Glaze, 252 water to produce in cookie Browned Billows of Cheesy Satin-Smooth Ganache Glaze, dough, 421, 426 Puff, 201 99–100 glutenin, 343 hand-held pies Serious Rum Cake Glaze, 29 amount in gluten, 470–471 Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, combination with sugar, 350, 308 253 485 strong crust for, 306–307 Shiny Ganache Glaze, 97 gluten formation from. See hand mixers, 2 Shiny Glaze for Pound Cake, 18 gluten hard red winter wheat flour Velvety Ganache Glaze, 98–99 lacking in non-wheat flours, 473 for baguettes, 62 gliadin, 343 glycyrrhizin, 77 unbleached, for bread, 431 amount in gluten, 470–471 goat cheese hard wheat, 468, 471 combination with sugar, 350, 485 Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, hazelnuts gluten formation from. See 274–275 Delicate Hazelnut Génoise, gluten Gold Medal flour 227 lacking in non-wheat flours, 473 all-purpose, 60, 62, 63 Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut glucono-delta-lactone, reaction Harvest King unbleached, 461, Paste, 291 time of, 47 477, 478 Hazelnut-Almond Meringue glucose. See corn syrup protein content of, 377 Layers with Silky Crème gluten Gorgonzola cheese Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, aligning by rounding bread Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 178–180 dough, 441 graham crackers. See cookie Hazelnut-Almond Soft with all-purpose flour, 60 crumbs Dacquoise, 180–181 with cake flour, 61 grain (of cake), fat, liquid, and Heavenly Mocha Hazelnut- cutting of, by acidic ingredients, sugar and, 31 Almond Meringue Cake, 355 granulated sugar 182 developing by folding bread for buttercream icings, 145 quantity and weight measures dough, 441 in cookies, 397 of, 496

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Healy, Bruce I quantity and weight measures chocolate fan-making procedure of, 495 of, 106 icings and frostings, 141–150. See Shirley’s Adaptation of Strause’s on creaming cake mixing also toppings Special Crust for Pumpkin method, 122 Betty McCool’s Coconut Icing, Pie, 298–299 on creaming of butter and sugar, 41 Simple Very Flakey Crust, 121 buttercream. See buttercream 302–304 flour preferred by, 60, 62, 63 icings instant-read thermometers to test on génoise, 220 Carrot Cake Cream Cheese cakes for doneness, 136 lightened French buttercream of, Icing, 72 instant yeast, 477, 478 215 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, quantity and weight measures on liquid for pâte à choux, 242 145 of, 496 nut meringue recipes of, 177 chocolate, 143–144. See also insulated cookie sheets, 420 on overheating chocolate, 92 ganache isomalt, 77 on pound cake, 13 cream cheese, 144–145 Italian buttercreams, 209–211, on temperature of foam for double-icing technique for, 212–213 génoise, 222 141–142 Italian Buttercream, 212–213 heatproof glass, precautions with, 5 ganaches. See ganache Italian meringues, 186–188 heavy cream goal of, 141 Italian Meringue (Magnificent substituting for milk in cakes, Icing for Pound Cake, 18 Pie Meringue), 187–188 16–19 Luscious, Creamy Chocolate in lightened French buttercream, whipped. See whipped cream Icing, 143–144 215 Hermé, Pierre, puff pastry tech- meringue, 145 nique of, 358 Pound Cake Icing, 24 K Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa, 111 Scone Icing, 156 high-altitude baking, 50 Serious Rum Cake Icing, 29 King Arthur flour, 385 cocoa powder and, 110 Simple Cream Cheese Icing, 84 all-purpose, 82 high-percentage chocolate, 87, 94, soft chocolate, 142–143 protein content of, 377 101 whipped cream, 142 rye, 460 high-protein flour, 468 White Chocolate Cream Cheese unbleached all-purpose, 461, for cookies, browning and, Icing, 144–145 477, 478 423 ingredients, 6–7. See also specific kiwi gluten formation in, 372 ingredients Turkey Filling, 258 liquid absorption by, 372 acidity of, 68 kneading bread, 433, 479–480 for pâte à choux, 242 baker’s formulas for, 29–31, 32, knives for slicing cakes into layers, for puff pastry, 357 33, 34–36, 238 39 high-ratio cakes, 30–31, 69, 124 baker’s percentages, 32, 34–35, kosher salt Hocking, Sylvia, 13 432 in bread dough, 481 homogenized cream, whipping, 319 balance of, for cakes, 13–14, production process for, 481–482 honey, 76 29–31, 33 substituting for table salt, 7 in cookies, 397 improvements in, 30 Kummer, Corby, 63 Honey Mascarpone Cream, quantity and weight measures 270–271 of, 495–497 L hygroscopic nature of, 76, 393, sifting for even distribution of 397, 423 leaveners, 58 lactitol, 77 hot-oil crusts, 346 sources for, 88, 146, 509–510 lame, 442 hot syrup, pouring, 187, 209 instant coffee powder, quantity lane cake Hurlbert, Heather, 19 and weight measures of, Shirley’s Not-the-Traditional on buttercreams, 209 497 Lane Cake, 44–45 chocolate sculptures made by, instant flour lard 87–88 in cookies, 385 fat content of, 346 hydration of cookie dough, Lard Crust, 349–350 flakiness of pastry crust made 374–375 for pastry crust, 343–345 with, 346, 349, 350 hydrogenated starch, 77 protein content of, 343, 372 flavor of, 349

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Lard Crust, 349–350 grain and, 31 McGee, Harold, on cream of tartar quantity and weight measures order of adding to bread dough, with copper bowl, 172 of, 496 485 measurement, 2 layers, slicing cakes into, 39 for pastry crusts, 353 of chemical leaveners, 47–48 leaf lard, 349 for pâte à choux, 242–243 metric measures and, 2, 495 lean cakes (regular shortened cakes) for puff pastry, 357 weighing vs. volume for, 6 baker’s percentages for, 32 seizing of chocolate and. See weights for ingredients, list of, formulas for, 30 seizing of chocolate 495–497 leavening and leaveners spread of cookies and, 427 Medrich, Alice bubbles in fats as, 69–70, 390, texture and, 31 on combining melted chocolate 402 volume and metric measures of, with other ingredients, 94, 95 chemical. See ammonium 497 on high-percentage chocolate, bicarbonate; baking powder; weight of, 35 87, 101 baking soda; chemical loaf cakes, oven temperature for, salmonella, procedure for killing leaveners 137 of, 185–186 egg white foams as. See egg- low-fat dairy products, preventing melting chocolate, 92–93, 105 white foams; meringue(s); curdling of, 329 cocoa butter and, 106 soft pie meringues low-protein flour, 470. See also melting curves for, 106 steam as. See steam cake flour; instant flour; meringue(s), 167–193 yeast as. See baker’s yeast; wild Southern all-purpose flour; at-a-glance summary chart, 194 yeast; yeast breads White Lily flour cakes (nut meringues), 177–184 lecithin in bread, 432, 480 protein content of, 469 cookies, 175–177, 399 lemons and lemon juice crust on brownies as, 409 E-Z Crust with the Fresh, M Floating Islands, 170–171 Sparkling Taste of Lemon French (meringue ordinaire), Zest, 340–341 macadamia nuts 174–177 Lemon Curd, 284 Bordeaux Macadamia Crust, hard, 174–177, 186 Lemon Glaze, 26–27 268–269 heat and, 168 Lemon-Orange Cream Chiffon Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles ingredients for, 168–174 Cake, 232–233 with Chambord and Italian, 186–188 Lemon Tartlets, 283–284 Macadamia Dust, 103–104 nut, 177–184 Take-Your-Breath-Away Lemon quantity and weight measures for pies, stable, 186–188 Pound Cake, 25–27 of, 496 proportions in recipes for, 174, Taste Sensation Lemon-White Maldon sea salt, 7 177–178 Chocolate Butter Cookies, malitol, 77 salmonella-safe, 184–186 389–390 malted barley flour, 432, 477 shrinkage of, preventing, 173 Lenôtre, Gaston, on egg foam for malt extract, 477 soft, moist hard meringue, 181 génoise, 221, 222 mangoes in Great Flower Cake, 241 soft pie meringues, 188–193 levain, wild yeast. See sourdough mannitol, 77 Swiss, 184–186 starters maple syrup, 76 tearing of, preventing, 173 lightness, cake mixing method and, in cookies, 393 weeping of, 168, 189, 191 120, 124 margarine meringue crusts, 183–184, 279 limp cookies, 423 disadvantages of, 70 meringue icings, 145 liquids. See also specific liquids fat content of, 346 meringue powder, sources of, 146 absorption of, protein content of flakiness and, 346 Mesnier, Roland flour and, 372 marshmallow creme on buttercreams, 213 adding in creaming cake mixing Carol Moore’s Easy Magnificent on cooking fruit for pies, 311 method, 122, 123–124 Meringue, 193 on egg foam for génoise, adding to melted chocolate, 101 marshmallow to stabilize whipped 221–222 in baker’s formulas, 31 cream, 320, 321 nut meringue recipes of, 177 crumb and, 31 Martha White flour, 377 on sealing meringue and filling, dissolving leaveners in, 59 mascarpone cheese 189 dissolving salt in, 122, 345 Honey Mascarpone Cream, metric measures, 2, 495 in emulsions, 210 270–271 microbial activity, sugar and, 73

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milk monopotassium tartrate. See cream ground, substituting for flour, 64 in bread, 482–485 of tartar roasted, to improve flavor and for pâte à choux, 242–243 Montrachet cheese texture of cakes, 52 substituting sour cream or heavy Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, nutmeg cream for, in cakes, 16–19 274–275 quantity and weight measures type used in this book, 7 Morton’s kosher salt, 7, 482 of, 497 milk chocolate, 90 mousse yeast activity and, 479 tempering, 105 Simple Chocolate Mousse, 96 nut meringues, 177–184 milling of flour, 469 mouthfeel, fat and, 31 Blueberries with Honey minerals in flour, 476 mozzarella cheese Mascarpone Cream in mixers, 2 Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 Walnut-Oat Meringue, in creaming cake mixing muffin(s) 183–184 method, 123 Blueberries and Cream Muffins, Hazelnut-Almond Meringue flakey pastry crusts mixed by, 131–132 Layers with Silky Crème 304–305 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, tender pastry crusts mixed by, Muffins, 129–131 178–180 297 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Hazelnut-Almond Soft mixing Glory Muffins, 80–81 Dacquoise, 180–181 of bread dough, temperature for, shape of, 136–137 Heavenly Mocha Hazelnut- 434–435 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, Almond Meringue Cake, 182 of cookies, 416–417 Roasted Walnut Muffins, as pie crusts, 183–184 of pâte à choux, 243 133–134 storing, 182 mocha muffin cake mixing method, buttercream icings, 150 57–58, 129–134. See also O Heavenly Mocha Hazelnut- muffin(s) Almond Meringue Cake, 182 muffin pans, sizes of, 128 oats moistness mustard. See dry mustard Blueberries with Honey brown sugar and, 393, 397, 423 Myers’s rum, 27 Mascarpone Cream in formulas to create moist cakes Walnut-Oat Meringue, and, 32, 34–36 N 183–184 honey and, 76, 393, 397, 423 Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cook- icings and frostings to retain, 141 natural cocoa powder, 109. See also ies, 380–382 molasses and, 423 cocoa powder Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal oil and, 52 antioxidants in, 111 Cookies, 379–380 of pound cakes, increasing, quantity and weight measures Laura Berry’s Extra-Crunchy 18–29 of, 497 Oatmeal Cookies, 382–383 sugar and, 52, 73, 393, 397, 423 nondiastatic malt extract, 477 quantity and weight measures moisture. See also liquids; nonrolled pastry crusts, 266–285 of, 497 moistness; steam; water; crumb crusts, 267–278 oils specific liquids meringue, 183–184, 279 for , 231–233 seizing of chocolate and, 93 phyllo, 279–285 in emulsions, 210 molasses, 76 press-in-the-pan, 278–279 to increase moisture in cakes, 52 Anadama Bread, 474–475 Northern specialty blended all- substituting for part of fat in Great Grandmother Schorr’s purpose flour pound cakes, 18–19, 25–29 Moravian Molasses Cookies, in cookies, 385 tenderness and, 69, 70, 390 418–419 protein content of, 372, 377 one-bowl cake mixing method, 128 hygroscopic nature of, 423 nut(s). See also almond(s); oranges and orange juice Old New England Hermit Bars, hazelnuts; macadamia nuts; Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 405–407 peanut butter; pecans; 308 snowflake cookies, 419 pistachios; walnuts Lemon-Orange Cream Chiffon monocalcium phosphate Cracker-Nut Crust, 273 Cake, 232–233 anhydrous, reaction time of, 47 for crusts, 267 Orange Cream Puffs, 250 in baking powder, 46 Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, reaction time of, 47 Paste, 291 253

524 Index Corriher_Bakewise_511-532_PTR 8/20/08 6:22 PM Page 525

ovens pastry blend cake mixing method, shaping, 293, 295 bakeware and, 6 126–127 Shirley’s Adaptation of Strause’s operation of, 3 pastry crusts, 286–309, 339–356 Special Crust for Pumpkin steam in, 5 at-a-glance summary chart, 309 Pie, 298–299 “oven spring,” 442 acidic ingredients for, 355 shrinkage of, 295, 343 oven temperature baking pans for, 293–294 Simple Very Flakey Crust, baking stones and, 2, 4–5, 135, basic recipe for, 339–340 302–304 244, 443 Bill Greenwood’s Great Dome strong, for hand-held pies, for cakes, 136 with a Braided Base, 327–328 306–307 fast preheating and, 4 cheese in, 353–355 sugar for, 350–353 fluctuation of, 3–4 color of, 355, 356 “super flakey,” 302 for high-altitude baking, 50 combining flour and fat for, 296, tender, 296–301, 345–346, 350 for loaf cakes, 137 301–302 time required for, 286 for muffins, 136–137 Cream Cheese Crust, 288–289 waterproof, 296–297, 298, opening door and, 5 Crust for Hand-Held Pies, 324–325, 345, 351 rise and, 135 306–307 pastry flour temperature settings and, 3 Crust with Instant , in cookies, 385 texture and, 136 344–345 protein content of, 343, 372, 470 overbaking cookies, 424 decorating, 295 pâte à choux, 241–262 overbeating egg whites, 167 eggs in, 356 at-a-glance summary chart, 262 overleavening, 50–57 E-Z Crust with the Fresh, baking, 244 of cookies, 402–403, 404–407 Sparkling Taste of Lemon Cocktail Puffs with Escargots, examples of recipes with, 55–57 Zest, 340–341 259 “fixing” overleavened recipes fat for, 345–350 Cream Puffs, 250 and, 57 flakey, 296, 301–308, 346 Éclairs, 251 improving overleavened recipes Flakey Butter Crust in a Mixer, Gougères—Magnificent Little and, 51–52 304–305 Bits of Cheese Clouds, overwhipping cream, 320 Flakey Cheddar Crust, 354–355 255–257 oxygen, incorporating into bread Flakey Crust in a Food ingredients for, 241–243 dough, 479–480 Processor, 305–306 Pâte à Choux Ordinaire, 245–247 flour for, 343–345 Pâte à Choux “Somewhat P Greenwood’s Great Buttermilk Spéciale,” 247–249 Crust, 347–349 Pont Neuf, 254 palm kernel oil hot-oil, 346 Puits d’Amour (Wells of Love), in compound coatings, 117 Lard Crust, 349–350 252–253 in white chocolate, 88 liquids for, 353 Religieuses (Little Nuns), in white coatings, 90 pâte brisée, 351 251–252 parchment paper, 424 Pâte Sablé, 352–353 Shirley’s Mile-High Popovers, Parmesan cheese pâte sablé, 351 260–261 Cheese ’n’ Rice Bread, 444–446 pâte sucrée, 351 sticking of, 244 Gougères—Magnificent Little phyllo. See phyllo crusts techniques for, 243–244 Bits of Cheese Clouds, placing in pan, 295 Turkey Gougère, 257–258 255–257 pre- or blind-baking, 294, pâte brisée, 351 Herbed Parmesan Cheesecake, 325–326 Patent, Greg, puff pastry technique 341–342 proportions for, 347 of, 358 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, ratio of fat to flour for, 340 pâte sablé, 351 158–159 Rolled-In Crumbs Crust, pâte sucrée, 351 in pastry crusts, 353, 354 324–325 peaches quantity and weight measures rolling, 286–288 Fresh Peach Soufflé à la Roland of, 496 Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 Mesnier, 202–203 paste Rustic Pear Tart, 289–291 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut salt for, 345 312–314 Paste, 291 setting of dough and, acidic in Great Flower Cake, 241 pasteurized cream, whipping, 319 ingredients and, 355 Peach Sauce, 203

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peanut butter cayenne, quantity and weight poolish, 447–452 E-Z Delicious Peanut Butter measures of, 497 Baguettes Made with Poolish, Cookies, 383–384 white, quantity and weight 448–450 quantity and weight measures measures of, 497 baker’s percentages for, 448 of, 497 Pepperidge Farm Bordeaux Poolish, 448 pears cookies. See Bordeaux Rustic Boules Made with Croustade, 281–282 cookies Poolish, 450–452 Pear Tart with Frangipane in phenylalanine, 78 popovers Puff Pastry, 360–361 phyllo crusts, 279–285 Shirley’s Mile-High Popovers, Rustic Pear Tart, 289–291 The Best-Ever Chess Tarts, 260–261 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, 285 pork in Turkey Filling, 258 Roasted Walnut Muffins, Croustade, 281–282 potato starch 133–134 Lemon Tartlets, 283–284 about, 7 pecans shaped and prebaked shells, in pound cakes, 18, 22–24 Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal 282–285 quantity and weight measures Cookies, 380–382 phyllo pastry of, 497 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a handling, 280 substituting for part of flour, Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 store-bought, 280 62–63 Croustade, 281–282 phyllo shells, shaped and prebaked, texture and, 62–63 French Cake aux Fruits, 282–285 potency of chemical leaveners, 139–140 pie(s), 263–368 checking, 48 Gingersnap-Pecan Crust, 277–278 baking. See baking pies pot pies Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, cream. See cream pies Real Homemade Chicken Pot 71–72 custard. See custard pies Pie, 366–368 Grandmother’s Pecan double-crusted, baking, 327 pound cakes, 13–29 Macaroons, 398 fruit. See fruit pies balance of ingredients for, Great Flower Cake, 239–241 hand-held, strong crust for, 13–14 Improved Tunnel of Fudge 306–307 Bundt or tube pan for, 15 Cake, 74–75 Memorable Creamy Pumpkin Chef Heather Hurlbert’s Lane Cake Filling, 45 Pie, 300–301 Magnificent Moist Whipped Laura Berry’s Extra-Crunchy pie crusts, 266–309. See also crumb Cream Pound Cake, 20–21 Oatmeal Cookies, 382–383 crusts; nonrolled pastry The Great American Pound Lava Cookies, 400–401 crusts; pastry crusts Cake, 16–19, 33–34 Moist Banana Nut Bread, pie meringues Icing for Pound Cake, 18 137–138 Alice Medrich’s Safe Meringue, increasing moistness of, 18–29 quantity and weight measures 185–186 potato starch in, 18, 22–24 of, 496 Carol Moore’s Easy Magnificent Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 Roasted Pecan Chocolate Chip Meringue, 193 Shiny Glaze for Pound Cake, 18 Cookies, 375–376 Greenwood’s Great High Shirley’s Even Greater American Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Meringue, 191–192 Pound Cake, 22–24 Glory Muffins, 80–81 Italian Meringue (Magnificent Soaking Solution for Pound Shirley’s Cakey Brownies, Pie Meringue), 187–188 Cake, 18 413–414 soft, 188–193 substituting oil for part of fat in, Shirley’s Corrupted Black Gold, stable, 186–188 18–19, 25–29 401–402 pie pans, 293–294 Take-Your-Breath-Away Lemon Shirley’s Fudgy Brownies, glass, 293–294 Pound Cake, 25–27 411–412 with holes, 294 whipped cream in, 19–29 Shirley’s Version of Pop pie weights, 326 pouring hot syrup, 187, 209 Corriher’s Original Pillsbury flour, 377 prebaking pastry crusts. See blind- Applesauce Cake, 54–55 piping of pâte à choux, 244 baking pastry crusts Wedding Cookies, 422 pistachios, quantity and weight pre-ferments, 447–467 pepper measures of, 496 with baker’s yeast, 447–459 black, quantity and weight pizza stones. See baking stones with wild yeast, 459–467 measures of, 497 plums in Great Flower Cake, 241 preheating ovens, 4

526 Index Corriher_Bakewise_511-532_PTR 8/20/08 6:22 PM Page 527

preshaping bread dough, 441–442 Purdy, Susan raspberry liqueur. See Chambord press-in-the-pan crust, 278–279 on creaming butter and sugar, reducing sugar, corn syrup as, 423 E-Z Delicious Chocolate-Nut 121 refrigerator cookies, 417 Crust, 278–279 on high-altitude baking, 50 Reinhart, Peter, on whole-grain protein Pyler, E. J. flour, 475–476 amount in flour, 62, 343, 403, on eggs, 220 Release foil for baking cookies, 468–470. See also high- on temperature of foam for 374, 424 protein flour; low-protein génoise, 221 rice flour Cheese ’n’ Rice Bread, 444–446 coating of, by oil, tenderness Q cooking “Carolina style,” 160 and, 390 Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy denaturation of, 164–165 quick breads Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 in egg-white foams, 165 All-Time Favorite E-Z, rice malt syrup, 76 factors influencing content in Dee-licious Sour Cream rise flour, 468–469 Cornbread, 157 baking stones and, 135, 443 gluten and. See gliadin; gluten; Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy need for gluten in yeast bread glutenin Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 for, 473 liquid absorbed by flour and, 372 Moist Banana Nut Bread, “oven spring” and, 442 prevention of denaturation by 137–138 steam and, 5, 135 starch, 328–329, 335 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, roasted nuts to improve flavor and in self-rising flour, 403 158–159 texture of cakes, 52 speed of cooking of, acidic oven temperature for, 137 rolled cookies, 417–418 ingredients and, 355, 393, quick-mix cake mixing method, 128 rolling pastry dough, 286–288 399 Quick-Rise yeast, 477, 478 to even thickness, 288 puff pastry, 356–368 quantity and weight measures rolling pins for, 287 “brush-it-with-ice-water” of, 496 surface for, 287 technique for, 357–358 technique for, 287–288 classic, 358–368 R rolling pin(s), 287 flour for, 357 rolling pin rings, 288 folding technique for making, raisins room temperature in U.S. homes, 356, 360 Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal 122 Great Shell with Fresh Crabmeat Cookies, 379–380 rope edge of pastry crusts, 295 and Sweet Creamed Corn, French Cake aux Fruits, roulades, 238–241 364–365 139–140 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 lattice, 367–368 Pop Corriher’s Original proportions for, 238 liquid for, 356 Applesauce Cake, 51–52 rounding bread dough, 441–442 Mustard-Dill Salmon en Croûte, quantity and weight measures rum 361–362 of, 496 Myers’s, 27 Pear Tart with Frangipane in Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Old New England Hermit Bars, Puff Pastry, 360–361 Glory Muffins, 80–81 405–407 Piroshkis, 362–363 seedless vs. seeded, 53 Rum Cream Pie, 276 Quick Puff Pastry or “Rough Shirley’s Version of Pop Rum Drizzle, 76 Puff,” 359–360 Corriher’s Original Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 Real Homemade Chicken Pot Applesauce Cake, 54–55 Serious Rum Cake Glaze, 29 Pie, 366–368 Rapadura, 76 Serious Rum Cake Icing, 29 working with, 356–358 RapidRise yeast, 477, 478 Rumford baking powder, 46 pumpkin quantity and weight measures rye flour, 460 Memorable Creamy Pumpkin of, 496 quantity and weight measures Pie, 300–301 raspberries of, 495 pumpkin seeds Shirley’s Not-So-Sconey Scones, Rye with Pumpkin and Rye with Pumpkin and 155–156 Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 raspberry jam Shirley’s Adaptation of Whitley’s punching down bread dough, 441, Judy Brady’s Blueberries and Rye Sourdough Starter, 479–480 Bordeaux, 269–271 460–461

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rye flour (cont.) seeded raisins of meringues, preventing, 173, Working Rye or Wheat Starter, seedless raisins vs., 53 190 461–462 substitution for, 53 of pastry crusts, 295, 343 seedless raisins, seeded raisins vs., sifting to distribute leaveners, 58 S 53 single-stage cake mixing method, seizing of chocolate, 93 128 saccharin, 77–78 combining chocolate with other slashing bread dough, 442 salmon ingredients and, 94–95, 101 snails Mustard-Dill Salmon en Croûte, preventing, 93–94 Cocktail Puffs with Escargots, 361–362 rescuing chocolate after, 93 259 salmonella, killing in eggs, 102, self-rising flour, 57, 151 snowflake cookie cutters, 418, 419 104, 184–186 advantage of, 58–59 soaking solutions salt characteristics of, 63 Betty McCool’s Ole Time adding in creaming cake mixing for cookies, 403–404 Coconut Soaking Solution, 41 method, 122 protein content of, 403, 470 Chocolate-on-Chocolate Cake adding to pastry dough, 345 quantity and weight measures Soaking Solution, 114 in bread, 481–482 of, 495 Golden Layers Soaking for buttercream icings, 146 White Lily, 61, 63, 151 Solution, 42 in cookies, 407 semisweet chocolate, 86, 87 Lane Cake Soaking Solution, 45 dissolving in liquid, 122, 345 semisweet chocolate chips, quantity Soaking Solution for Pound gluten in bread dough and, and weight measures of, 497 Cake, 18 481 semolina flour, 471 sodium acid pyrophosphate, kosher, 7, 481–482 quantity and weight measures reaction time of, 47 for pastry crusts, 345 of, 495 sodium aluminum phosphate, production of, 481–482 Semolina Bread, 471–473 reaction time of, 47 quantity and weight measures Straight Dough with Autolysis sodium aluminum sulfate of, 497 Baguettes, 436–438 baking powders made with, 46 sea, 7, 481, 482 separating eggs, 165–166 reaction time of, 47 shelf life of bread and, 481 Shake & Blend. See instant flour soft chocolate icings, 142–143 suppression of bitterness by, shaping soft pie meringues, 188–193 345, 407, 481 of cookies, 417–418 baking, 191 sweetness and, 407 of pastry crusts, 293, 295 beading of, 189 table, 7, 481 of pâte à choux, 244 Carol Moore’s Easy Magnificent time of addition to bread dough, shortening Meringue, 193 481 for buttercreams, 147, 208–209 Greenwood’s Great High types of, 7, 481–482 butter-flavored, in cookies, 385, Meringue, 191–192 saltine crackers 392, 426 proportions in recipes for, 188 Cracker-Nut Crust, 273 coating of flour by, 345–346 shrinkage of, preventing, 173, Rooster’s Famous Fire Crackers, in cookies, 392 190 391 ease of working with crust made tearing of, 190 sauces from, 346 warming egg whites for, 190–192 Caramel, 171–172 with emulsifiers. See Crisco weeping of, 189, 191 Cream Sauce, 363 fat content of, 346 soft wheat, 468–469, 471 Peach Sauce, 203 flakiness of pastry crust made soft winter wheat flour, protein Strawberry-Chambord Sauce, with, 346, 347, 350 content of, 377 89–90 as leavener, 390, 402 solid fats scones, 154–156 quantity and weight measures leavening and, 69–70 Shirley’s Not-So-Sconey Scones, of, 496 tenderness and, 69 155–156 spread of cookies and, 384 sorbitol, 77 sea salt in sticks, for pastry crusts, 302 soufflés, 195–208 brands of, 7 tenderness and, 347 at-a-glance summary chart, 208 in bread dough, 481 shrinkage base for, hot, 195, 196 composition of, 482 of fruit fillings, solution to, Easy—Without Foam—Soufflé, substituting for table salt, 7 310–311 199–200

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flourless, 202–203 Southwestern all-purpose flour as leavener, 47 free-form, 204–205 in cookies, 385 misting pâte à choux to create, freestanding, 205–207 protein content of, 372 244 Fresh Peach Soufflé à la Roland soybean oil, compound coatings pâte à choux and. See pâte à Mesnier, 202–203 made from, 117 choux Incredibly Creamy Soufflés, spices. See also specific spices rise and, 5, 135, 443 206–207 quantity and weight measures steamer, making, 5, 246, 248, 443 with no egg-white foam, of, 497 stevia, 77 198–200 yeast activity and, 479, 480 sticking Salzburger Nockerl, 204–205 Splenda, 77, 79 of cookies, 424 Simply Wonderful Strata— sponge (pre-ferment), 447 of pâte à choux, 244 Browned Billows of Cheesy sponge cakes, 233–241 storage Puff, 201 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a of cakes, 54, 150 Soufflé Magnifique!, 196–198 Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 of chemical leaveners, 48 stratas, 200–201 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 of nut meringues, 182 sources La Joconde, 233–238 straight dough bread-making for equipment, 507–509 rolled (roulades), 238–241 method, 444–446 for ingredients, 88, 146, Shirley’s Simplified Clichy Cake with autolysis, 435–441 509–510 (), 235–236 stratas, 200–201 sour cream Simplified La Joconde, 234–235 Simply Wonderful Strata— All-Time Favorite E-Z, spoon breads, 158–160 Browned Billows of Cheesy Dee-licious Sour Cream Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Puff, 201 Cornbread, 157 Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 Strause, Monroe Boston with baking soda, 49 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, on cooking fruit for pies, 310–311 color of pastry crust and, 355 158–159 on crumb crusts, 267–268 The Creamiest Ever Amaretto spread of cookies, 425–427 on meringues, 173 Cheesecake, 333–335 acidity and, 404, 427 on pies, 266 quantity and weight measures chocolate and, 427 strawberries of, 496 cocoa powder and, 427 Clide Ogletree’s Famous Simple Very Flakey Crust, eggs and, 399, 427 Strawberry Pie, 322–323 302–304 fat and, 384, 426 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 Sour Cream Topping, 301 flour and, 426 Strawberry-Chambord Sauce, substituting for milk in cakes, leaveners and, 404, 427 89–90 16–19 liquid and, 427 streusel topping, 316–318 tenderness of pastry crusts made sugar and, 393, 427 Streusel Topping, 317–318 with, 353, 355 springform pan sizes, 271 string test for checking temper, 107 sourdough starters, 459–467 spring wheat, 468, 471 Sucanat, 76 building, 466–467 starch. See also cornstarch; potato sucralose, 77, 79 Rye and Wheat Starter, 463–465 starch; tapioca starch sucrose in cookies, 397 Rye with Pumpkin and (tapioca flour) sugar(s), 73–79 Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 custard texture and, 331–332 adding to flour before folding Shirley’s Adaptation of Whitley’s hydrogenated, 77 into egg foam, 222 Rye Sourdough Starter, for meringues, 173–174 amount required for meringues, 460–461 prevention of protein coagulation 168–169 Sourdough Rustic Boules, by, 328–329, 335 in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 466–467 types used in this book, 7 33, 34–36 temperature for, 459–460, 463 steam, 161–262 beet, 146 Working Rye or Wheat Starter, creating in oven, 5, 246, 248, 443 in bittersweet chocolate, 87 461–462 egg-white foams and. See angel in bread, 485 Southern all-purpose flour, 63, food cakes; buttercream(s); brown. See brown sugar 151 chiffon cakes; egg-white in brownies, 415 in cookies, 385 foams; génoise; meringue(s); browning and, 73 protein content of, 372, 377, soft pie meringues; soufflés; bulk and, 73 469, 470 sponge cakes for buttercream icings, 145–146

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sugar(s) (cont.) sugar beets, 146 table sugar. See granulated sugar in cake recipes, 12 sugar bloom, 91 tapered French rolling pins, 287 cane, 146 sugar/flour batter cake mixing tapioca starch (tapioca flour) Caramel, 171–172 method, 135. See creaming about, 7 confectioners’. See confectioners’ cake mixing method for meringues, 173–174 sugar sugar in cookies, 392–397 quantity and weight measures control of microbial activity by, at-a-glance summary chart, 397 of, 497 73 browning and, 392 tart(s) in cookies. See sugar in cookies crisp vs. limp cookies and, 423 The Best-Ever Chess Tarts, 285 cooking fruit for pies with, spread and, 393 fruit. See fruit tarts 310–311 texture and, 393–396 Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, crisp vs. limp cookies and, 423 sugar-shortening cake mixing 274–275 crumb and, 31 method. See creaming cake tartaric acid, in baking powder, 46 for crumb crusts, 267–268 mixing method tearing of meringues, preventing, in dissolved-sugar cake mixing summer coatings, 117 190 method, 134 Sunett, 77, 78 temperature flavor and, 73 sunflower seeds bacterial activity in bread dough grain and, 31 Rye with Pumpkin and and, 434 granulated. See granulated sugar Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 for baking brownies, 410 high-altitude baking and, 50 superfine sugar of bread dough, 434–435 hygroscopic nature of, 73, 393, making one’s own, 168, 233 of butter and bowl for creaming 397, 423 for meringues, 168, 233 cake mixing method, 122 to increase moisture in cakes, 52 sweeteners. See also artificial coating of flour by fat and, 346 interference with gluten sweeteners; corn syrup; combining cool chocolate with formation, 350, 372–373, honey; maple syrup; ice-cold ingredients and, 104 421, 485 molasses; rice malt syrup; for cooking cream pie fillings, for meringues, 168–172 sugar(s); specific types of 335 moisture retention and, 73, 393, sugars for cooking custard, 328 397, 423 types of, 76 cooling chocolate rapidly and, for pastry crusts, 350–353 sweetness, salt and, 407 106–107 preservation of fruit and Sweet ’n Low, 77–78 of cream for ganache, 101 vegetable shape by, 73 Swiss buttercreams, 209–211 for creaming cake mixing quantity and weight measures Swiss Buttercream, 211 method, 121, 122 of, 495–496 Swiss cheese of eggs for creaming cake Rapadura, 76 Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy mixing method, 122 reducing, corn syrup as, 423 Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 of fat, for flakey breads, 490 sources of, 146 quantity and weight measures fermentation in bread and, 434 spread of cookies and, 427 of, 496 flavor of bread and, 434 Sucanat, 76 Swiss meringues, 184–186 of foam for génoise, 221–222 superfine (baker’s, bar, berry), Alice Medrich’s Safe Meringue, for gelatin added to whipping 168, 233 185–186 cream, 320 table. See granulated sugar syrup(s), 77. See also corn syrup; for mixing bread dough, tenderness and, 73 maple syrup 434–435 texture and, 73 Basic Heavy Syrup, 226 of oven. See oven temperature texture of, surface texture of Espresso Syrup, 236 overheating chocolate and, 92 cookies and, 393–396 Génoise Syrup, 226 room, in U.S. homes, 122 timing of addition for hot, pouring, 187, 209 for soufflé bases, 195, 196 meringues, 169 for sourdough starters, turbinado, 76, 397 T 459–460, 463 types used in this book, 6 testing cakes for doneness and, weight of, 34 table salt 136 sugar/batter cake mixing method. in bread dough, 481 texture of fat and, 346 See creaming cake mixing substituting kosher salt for, 7 for whipping cream, 318–319 method substituting sea salt for, 7 yeast activity and, 434, 478–479

530 Index Corriher_Bakewise_511-532_PTR 8/20/08 6:22 PM Page 531

tempering chocolate, 104–107 turkey E-Z Delicious Chocolate-Nut checking the temper and, 107 Turkey Gougère, 257–258 Crust, 278–279 easy tempering and, 105 two-stage cake mixing method, Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, low-temperature, 105–106 126–127 71–72 old-fashioned method for, Magnificent Moist Golden Cake Improved Tunnel of Fudge 106–107 (Two-Stage Method), Cake, 74–75 tempering machines for, 107 126–127 Lava Cookies, 400–401 tenderness Old New England Hermit Bars, artificial sweeteners and, 79 U 405–407 cake mixing method and, 120 quantity and weight measures of cookies, fat and, 390 ultra-pasteurized cream, whipping, of, 496 dissolved-sugar cake mixing 319 Shirley’s Version of Pop method and, 134 unbleached flour Corriher’s Original fats and, 69, 70 for bread, 469–470 Applesauce Cake, 54–55 of pastry crusts, 296, 345–346, characteristics of, 62 Super Rich Espresso Brownies, 347, 350, 353, 355 quantity and weight measures 415–416 texture of, 495 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, of brownies, 410 unsweetened chocolate, 86 Roasted Walnut Muffins, cake mixing method and, 120, USDA National Nutrient Database 133–134 134 for Standard Reference, 2, water. See also liquids of cookies, 390–392, 393–396, 495 for bread, 481 405 in emulsions, 210 of custard, starch and, 331–332 V for meringues, 172–173 fat and, 390–392 for pâte à choux, 242, 243 flour type and, 60, 61, 62–63 vacherins, 174 to produce gluten in cookie leaveners and, 405 vanilla extract for buttercreams, dough, 421, 426 liquid and, 31 147 waterproof pastry crusts, 296–297, oven temperature and, 136 vanilla wafers. See cookie crumbs; 298, 324–325, 345, 351 potato starch and, 62–63 crumb crusts weeping of meringues, 168, 189, sugar and, 73, 393–396 Velvety Ganache Glaze, 98–99 191 thaumarins, 77 vital wheat gluten, 476 weight(s) thermometers, instant-read, to test vitamin C in bread, 432, 480 in baker’s formulas, 29–31 cakes for doneness, 136 volume, measuring ingredients by, for ingredients, list of, 495–497 thin chocolate, 88 6 measuring ingredients by, 6, 31 thinning of dishes with egg yolks, used in this book, 2 alpha-amylase and, 110, 335 W wheat thyme, yeast activity and, 479 ash content of, 476 toppings wacky cake durum (semolina). See semolina Honey Mascarpone Cream, Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 flour 270–271 Wakefield, Ruth, 373–374 hard, 471 meringue. See pie meringues walnuts soft, 468–469, 471 Rum Drizzle, 76 Blueberries with Honey spring, 468, 470, 471 Sour Cream Topping, 301 Mascarpone Cream in strains of, amount of protein in streusel, 316–318 Walnut-Oat Meringue, flour and, 468–469 Streusel Topping, 317–318 183–184 winter, 468–469, 471 whipped cream, 142, 318–323 Chocolate-on-Chocolate: Dark “Whip it” stabilizer, 319 Whipped Cream Topping, 321 Moist Cake with Chocolate- whipped cream, 318–323 truffles, 102–104 Walnut Frosting, 113–114 at-a-glance summary chart, 321 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles Chocolate-Walnut Frosted for génoise, 221 with Chambord and Golden Layer Cake, 41–42 icings and toppings, 142, Macadamia Dust, 103–104 Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal 318–323 tube pan for pound cakes, 15 Cookies, 379–380 incorporating into other turbinado sugar, 76 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut ingredients, 320 in cookies, 397 Muffins, 129–131 liquid draining from, 319

Index 531 Corriher_Bakewise_511-532_PTR 8/20/08 6:22 PM Page 532

whipped cream (cont.) Williams, Chuck, 151 malted barley flour in, 477 overwhipping, 320 winter wheat, 468–469, 471 malt extract in, 477 in pound cakes, 19–29 Wondra. See instant flour methods for. See bread-making stabilizers for, 319–320 wrapping cakes, 150 methods Whipped Cream Topping, 321 milk in, 482–485 white chocolate, 88, 90 X order of combining ingredients Bali’s Alabaster Chocolate for, 485 Tower, 88–89 xylitol, 77 Rustic Boules Made with Shirley’s Not-So-Sconey Scones, Poolish, 450–452 155–156 Y salt in, 481–482 Taste Sensation Lemon-White Semolina Bread, 471–473 Chocolate Butter Cookies, yeast. See baker’s yeast; sourdough shelf life of, 481 389–390 starters; wild yeast sourdough. See sourdough tempering, 105 yeast breads, 429–494 starter White Chocolate Cream Cheese Anadama Bread, 474–475 Straight Dough with Autolysis Icing, 144–145 Baguettes Made with Poolish, Baguettes, 436–438 white coating, 90 448–450 Straight Dough with Autolysis White Lily flour baker’s percentages for, 432, Bâtards, 438–439 in cookies, 385 436 Straight Dough with Autolysis protein content of, 372, 377 barley malt syrup for, 477 Fougasse, 439–441 quantity and weight measures Basic Dough Made with Biga, “strange” ingredients for, of, 495 456 431–432 self-rising, 61, 63, 151 Cheese ’n’ Rice Bread, 444–446 sugar in, 485 white pepper, quantity and weight Ciabatta with Biga, 453–454 techniques for. See bread- measures of, 497 dairy products in, 482–485 making techniques whole-egg buttercreams, 210, fat in. See fat in bread The Ultimate Brioche I: Light, 213–215 flakey, 490–494 Airy, Bread-Like Brioche, whole-grain breads, 475–476 Flakey, Buttery Croissants, 486–487 whole-wheat bread 490–494 The Ultimate Brioche II: Land of Milk and Honey Whole flavor of, 480 Buttery, Cake-Like Brioche, Wheat, 483–485 flour for. See flour for bread 488–489 wild yeast, 478 Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 vitamin C in, 480 pre-ferments with. See Fougasse with Biga, 457–458 water for, 481 sourdough starters Land of Milk and Honey Whole whole-grain, 475–476 wild yeast levain. See sourdough Wheat, 483–485 yeast for, 477–479 starters lecithin in, 480 yogurt with baking soda, 49

532 Index Corriher_Bakewise_i-262_PTR 8/18/08 4:10 PM Page iv

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