Classic Chain Mail Jewelry With A Twist Mix up traditional Classic weaves for elegance Chain Mail Create beautiful jewelry just by opening and closing jump rings! Author Sue Ripsch off ers even more variations on this timeless technique in her Jewelry WITH A TWIST second book, Classic Chain Mail Jewelry with a Twist. With rings made of twisted or square , weaves that are turned and twisted, and even added beads and crystals, you’ll be creating gorgeous pieces in no time. Inside you’ll fi nd:

◆ 28 beautiful projects based on timeless weaves, such as Byzantine, Celtic, and European 3-in-1

◆ Extra information about aspect ratio and making and polishing jump rings RIPSCH

◆ Step-by-step instructions and photographs for easy construction

Add Classic Chain Mail Jewelry with a Twist to your jewelry-making library!

64834 U.S. $21.95 ISBN 978-0-87116-483-4 CAN $28.95 52195 www.KalmbachBooks.com

9 780871 164834 0 64465 16483 7 From the publisher of Bead&Button, Bead Style, and Art Jewelry magazines SUE RIPSCH

BKS-64834-CV1.indd 1 10/3/12 2:59 PM Classic Chain Mail Jewelry WITH A TWIST

SUE RIPSCH

BKS-64834-FM.indd 1 10/3/12 2:56 PM Kalmbach Books 21027 Crossroads Circle Waukesha, Wisconsin 53186 www.Kalmbach.com/Books

© 2013 Sue Ripsch All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in whole by electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher.

Lettered step-by-step photos by author. All other photography © 2013 Kalmbach Books except where otherwise noted.

The jewelry designs in Classic Chain Mail Jewelry with a Twist are the copyrighted property of the author, and they may not be taught or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal enjoyment only.

Published in 2013 17 16 15 14 13 1 2 3 4 5

Manufactured in the United States of America

ISBN: 978-0-87116-483-4 EISBN: 978-0-87116-756-9

Editor: Erica Swanson Art Director: Lisa Bergman Layout Artist: Rebecca Markstein Photographer: William Zuback, James Forbes

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Ripsch, Sue. Classic chain mail jewelry with a twist / Sue Ripsch.

p. : col. ill. ; cm.

Issued also as an ebook. ISBN: 978-0-87116-483-4

1. Jewelry making--Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Chains (Jewelry)--Handbooks, manuals, etc. 3. Chains (Jewelry)--Patterns. 4. Metal-work--Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Title.

TT212 .R572 2013 745.594/2

BKS-64834-FM.indd 2 10/3/12 2:56 PM Contents Introduction ...... 4 Basics ...... 5 Making Jump Rings ...... 5 Tumbling Jump Rings ...... 7 Aspect Ratio ...... 9

Beginner Weaves ...... 11 Byzantine and Flowers and Earrings ...... 12 Celtic Rondelle Bracelet...... 15 Cleopatra Wired Bracelet ...... 18 Crazy Byz Bracelet ...... 21 Criss-cross ...... 23 Crystal Dream with a Twist Bracelet ...... 26 European Rosette Bracelet ...... 29 Flight of Fancy Bracelet ...... 31 Jeweled Byzantine Bracelet ...... 34 Rolling Byzantine Bracelet, Necklace, and Earrings ...... 37 The Ultimate Chain Mail Necklace and Earrings ...... 40 Zigzag Bracelet ...... 43

Intermediate Weaves ...... 45 Byzantine and Circles Bracelet ...... 46 Celtic Visions Bracelet ...... 50 Camelot Bracelet ...... 53 Celtic Zigzag with a Twist Bracelet...... 55 Celtic Doublet Bracelet...... 57 Chain Mail Lace Bracelet, Pendant, and Earrings ...... 60 River of Mail Bracelet ...... 64 Crystal Mail Cu Bracelet ...... 66 Honeycomb with Bling Bracelet, Necklace, and Earrings ...... 70 Wave Bracelet ...... 74 European 4-in-1 Ring ...... 77 Full-Persian Cross Pendant and Earrings ...... 79 Snowake Pendant and Earrings ...... 82

Advanced Weaves ...... 84 Dragonscale Bracelet ...... 85 Half-Persian Bracelet ...... 89 Jens Pind Bracelet ...... 92

From the Author ...... 95

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Welcome to my second book featuring the For even more design possibilities, aspiring chain wonderful jewelry-making technique known as mail artists play with weaves using the concept of chain mail. I hope Classic Chain Mail Jewelry with aspect ratio. In a nutshell, the aspect ratio is a a Twist will be a major addition to your chain mail mathematical calculation that you can use to library, and I worked to make each piece beauti- change the scale of a piece of jewelry. For instance, ful and unique. Illustrated instructions with newly with the aspect ratio, you can take a petite bracelet added rings shown in blue are designated for the and give it more presence or heft with jump rings beginner, intermediate, and advanced jewelry of a dierent gauge and inner diameter than in the maker. It can be great fun to challenge yourself by original piece. making increasingly more di cult weaves, and this book will oer the reward for your eorts with time- In my rst book, Classic Chain Mail Jewelry, I less chain mail jewelry that you will wear for years. shared information about the history of chain mail, metals used for the jewelry, technical details Silver-lled metal has made silver jewelry more concerning jump ring gauge and sizes, tools used aordable, and I’ll share a bit of information about with the technique, storage of jump rings, and work rings made from this metal. I will also include a area considerations. You can refer to that book for a description of the process for making your own review of basic chain mail making, if needed. jump rings. The method of making jump rings is important, as high-quality and well-made jump Finally, note that not all of the weaves in this book rings translate into sturdy, professional jewelry. are original to me, but the instructions are my own. I hope that you will nd this book to be a true Caring for your jewelry can be as important as the building block. process for making it. You’ll nd information in this book about tumbling (sometimes called polishing) jump rings, as well as nishing whole jewelry pieces.

4 Classic Chain Mail Jewelry With A Twist

BKS-64834-FM.indd 4 10/3/12 2:56 PM If you are in need of a refresher, please refer to my rst book, Basics Classic Chain Mail Jewelry. The information in this section MAKING JUMP RINGS goes the next step beyond the basics.

SILVER FILLED JUMP RINGS In Classic Chain Mail Jewelry, I discussed dierent metals a hollow tube of with an alloy in the center. These rings that have been used to make jump rings for use in chain are less expensive than jump rings made of solid gold. mail jewelry. Since then, the market has seen a surge in the price of gold, and this has caused the silver market to rise Now, the silver market has followed suit. Silver- lled wire is dramatically as well. now available for making jump rings. The cost of silver- lled rings is approximately 40 percent less than that of sterling Gold- lled wire has long been available to make jump rings silver rings. I have made and worn jewelry made of silver- that are gold on the outside with an alloy in the center. Think lled rings, and the rings look like sterling silver and, to date, of a garden hose that is made of gold, and the water running seem to wear like it as well. This material oers an aordable through the hose is an alloy. This is what gold- lled rings are: alternative to more-expensive metals.

BASIC OR SIMPLE METHOD To make a jump ring, start with wire. A jeweler’s vise has jaws that have Jump rings are sized in two dimensions, removable rubber protective inserts which are gauge and inner diameter that help avoid marring the metal. A (ID). To give the jump ring the correct jeweler’s saw has special blades that are ID, you wrap the wire around a rod that made of high-quality tool steel and are is the size of the speci c ID that you very exible. You want a high-quality, want the ring to have. The rod can be a exible blade that has very sharp teeth wooden dowel, a metal rod, a knitting along the edge. needle, or anything else that is the correct size. Once you have the gauge To cut the coil, rst coat the saw blade of wire and the rod in the ID that you with a saw blade lubricant that helps Use a jeweler’s want, hand wrap the wire around the keep the blade cool (lubricant will also saw (above) to cut jump rings. Hold rod into a coil. There are also motorized help prolong the life of the blade). the coil on a bench methods of winding a coil. This wound pin (right) or in a coil will be cut and become your For rings that will have an ID of 6.5mm jeweler’s vise. jump rings. or greater, place a wooden dowel in the center of the coil when you are cutting Tighten the coil in the vise or place To cut the rings, you will need a few it. The dowel does not have to be the on a bench pin, and cut a straight line extra materials: a jeweler’s vise, a jew- exact ID that the coil was made for. It with the jeweler’s saw along the length eler’s saw, saw blade lubricant, a bench may be smaller, as this dowel only oers of the coil. This makes the coil into pin (optional), and a wooden dowel for support during the cutting process. For individual jump rings. Tumble-polish support. The jeweler’s equipment and rings with IDs smaller than 6.5mm, you the rings (p. 7). saw blade lubricant can be purchased can cut the coil without the additional at jewelry supply stores or online at support of a dowel. jewelry supply sites.

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Helpful Hints popular diameters. The less-expensive • When using the jeweler’s saw, be systems will require you to hand-wrap sure that the blade is fastened tightly the wire into a coil as described earlier. within the saw frame. Be sure not to The more expensive systems include a overtighten the blade, or it will break. motorized method of winding the wire Likewise, you do not want the blade into a coil. to be too loose, or it will not cut properly. To make rings with a professional jump • Place and keep the saw frame ring maker system, begin with wire guide just until the ends of the guide perpendicular to the coil throughout in the gauge that you desire and a begin to bend. Using your own rotary the cutting process if using a mandrel that is the diameter for your power unit recommended by the jump bench pin. nished rings. When winding rings into ring maker manufacturer, run the saw • When using a jeweler’s vise, saw the a coil for the motorized method, place over the cutting guide to cut the rings. coil, use long, even strokes, drawing the correct-sized metal mandrel in the As you are cutting the length of the the blade across the whole length of chuck of a drill motor to power-wind guide, press down on the cutting blade the coil as you work. It is important to the wire. Once the chuck is tightened, holder and maintain even downward cut the entire coil at once instead of place the wire through the hole in the pressure. Also when cutting, move stopping and starting. mandrel to begin winding. If there is no the saw assembly in a steady, quick hole in the mandrel, place the end of motion the length of the coil. This Professional Jump Ring Maker the wire in the opening between jaws method gives you the straightest and Method of the chuck. As you run the drill, feed cleanest cuts for your jump rings. Professional jump ring makers are the wire at a 90-degree angle to the pieces of equipment used to wind and length of the mandrel. Be sure to keep Remove the jump rings from the cut jump rings. They are made by many uniform tension on the wire while the cutting xture and tumble-polish. manufacturers and come in a broad coil is forming. It is important to wind range of prices. A jump ring maker the entire length of the coil at once, and helps you to form a more uniform not start and stop the process. diameter ring and aids in making clean, straight cuts. This is important because Place the coil in the cutting xture that then the two ends of the jump ring will came with the system. Apply saw blade close together smoothly and tightly for lubricant on the length of the coil, and your piece of jewelry. A professional then place the blade guide directly system comes with metal mandrels in above the lubricant. Tighten the blade

6 Classic Chain Mail Jewelry With A Twist

BKS-64834-FM.indd 6 10/3/12 2:56 PM Basics TUMBLING JUMP RINGS

TUMBLING JUMP RINGS jump rings that you have placed inside. Tumbling is a process for cleaning and The vibratory tumbler generally costs polishing jump rings; you can also $150 or more. tumble-polish nished jewelry. I use this method with sterling silver rings, Medium and Liquid silver- lled rings, gold- lled rings, and The medium used in your tumbler colored niobium rings. is very important for appropriately cleaning and polishing your pieces. For The process of tumbling cleans o any jewelry, use shot. It is oils or tarnish that has collected on the important that it is stainless steel. metal. Additionally, you can tumble The rst time I tumbled some pieces, jewelry with crystals (even with AB I used steel shot, and it damaged the coatings), beads, rondelles, and glass jewelry. You can use a “jewelers mix” pearls. Don’t tumble natural pearls or of stainless steel shot, which is made any soft stones, such as turquoise, as up of small stainless steel pieces in they can’t withstand the process. Silver dierent shapes and sizes. items with a patina (such as liver of The rst type of tumbler is the rotary sulfur) may lose the patina when tumbler, which is used to tumble rocks. You can nd stainless steel shot in rock tumbled. Please be aware of that before This tumbler has a barrel in which you stores or online at jewelry supply stores. tumbling this type of jewelry. If in place your tumbling medium, liquid, It generally takes about two pounds doubt about the stability of a material and pieces. You then place the barrel of shot for use in one tumbler. Two or nish, tumble-polish a sample of the on the motor and turn the motor on. pounds of stainless steel shot usually item to see how it is aected. The motor causes the barrel to rotate costs about $25–30, but you can use it continuously until you turn it o. This over and over again if you change the Tumbler Types tumbler is great for small quantities of cleaning liquid regularly. Tumblers are basic pieces of electrical jump rings or nished jewelry. It is equipment that generally consist of inexpensive (starting around $80) a motor and a barrel or bowl that will and readily available at rock shops or hold the jump rings and/or nished discount hardware stores. jewelry. You may have tumbled rocks when you were growing up or with The second type of tumbler is the your children. You can use the same vibratory tumbler, which is the one type of equipment to tumble jewelry. my husband uses to tumble large quantities of jump rings at one time. With that said, there are two dierent It uses a bowl instead of a barrel. The types of tumblers. What makes the bowl is placed over the motor and tumblers dierent is their method of when turned on, the motor causes the movement. bowl to vibrate the medium, liquid, and

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BKS-64834-FM.indd 7 10/5/12 1:05 PM Basics TUMBLING JUMP RINGS

When tumbling jump rings, place a Change the cleaning uid frequently In general, tumble pieces for 6–8 hours designated amount of cleaning liquid when you are tumbling pieces. When to fully polish them. If you are careful over the stainless steel shot (medium) the cleaning liquid becomes cloudy, that the items you are putting into the in the barrel/bowl. The amount will you should replace with fresh cleaning tumbler are appropriate for this type of be speci ed in the instructions for liquid. If your tumbled jewelry does not cleaning, you don’t have to worry about the tumbler you purchase. Generally, shine when nished, that is also a good overdoing it. you will cover the shot plus another reminder that you need to change the 1⁄2–3⁄4 in. (1.3–1.9cm) with uid. cleaning liquid. Once the pieces have been tumbled, rinse them thoroughly with clear, The base of the cleaning liquid is water, Tumbling Process running water. Dry each piece well. and you will need to add some type Place the pieces into the cleaning liquid Discard the used cleaning uid, if of cleaning agent to the water. In my and push them slightly down into the necessary, and rinse your shot. Store experience, a citrus dishwashing stainless steel shot. It is best if you can shot in the barrel/bowl until the detergent seems to clean jump rings bury them all or partway into the shot. next use. best. Just like with a front-loading As you tumble, the shot will move washing machine, you do not want around the jewelry along with the too much bubbling or foam, so two to cleaning liquid to clean and polish three drops will be enough. your jewelry.

Another alternative is to use tumbling The time it takes to tumble a piece burnishing uid. You can nd it online depends on how much cleaning it at jewelry supply stores. Burnishing needs. For lightly soiled or tarnished uid usually comes in a concentrate, jewelry, you may want to tumble for and you add a prescribed amount only 3–5 minutes. Heavily tarnished to the water you place into the tum- sterling silver pieces may take up to bling barrel/bowl. The rst time I used 8 hours or more to return them to their burnishing uid, I did not realize it was original beauty. concentrated and used too much. This can be expensive, so be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

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