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sandiegouniontribune.com THURSDAY • AUGUST 8, 2019

ICE AGENTS ARREST 680 IN MASSIVE WORKPLACE OPERATION Mississippi raids rank as largest single-state work site enforcement in U.S. history

BY ABIGAIL HAUSLOHNER

U.S. Immigration and Customs En- forcement agents swept through seven work sites in six cities across Missis- sippi on Wednesday,arresting approxi- mately 680 people in what officials said isthelargestsingle-stateworkplaceen- forcement action in U.S. history. The raids targeted agricultural processing plants, partof ayearlong in- vestigation into employment of un- authorized immigrants in the state, of- ficials said. They did not say how many individuals they were targeting in the operations, nor what proportion of those taken into custody were what ICE calls “collateral” arrests — those who were swept up along with those ICE was seeking. ICE Acting Director Matthew Al- bence said at a news conference in Jackson, Miss., that some of those ar- MARK RALSTON AFP/GETTY IMAGES rested will be prosecuted for crimes, El Paso residents attending an “El Paso Strong” event came out in large numbers Wednesday to protest President Donald others will be swiftly deported, and Trump’s visit to the city, where a gunman opened fire Saturday at a Walmart, killing 22 people and wounding dozens of others. SEE RAIDS • A10 PROTESTS GREET TRUMP IN VISITS TO DAYTON, EL PASO President spends time with massacre survivors, hospital medical staffs ROGELIO V. SOLIS AP BY ZEKE MILLER A young woman cries while & JILL COLVIN standing outside the Koch Foods Inc. plant as U.S. immigration EL PASO, Texas officials raid the facility in Mor- Aiming to play the traditional ton, Miss., on Wednesday. role of healer during national tragedy, President paid visits Wednesday to cities reeling from mass shoot- ings that left 31 dead and dozens more wounded. But he was met FIRST PERSON with large protests and biting po- litical attacks soon followed. The president and first lady FROM ‘REMAIN Melania Trump flew to El Paso late in the day after visiting the IN MEXICO’ TO Dayton, , hospital where many of the victims of Sunday’s attack in that city were treated. WIN ASYLUM For most of the day, the president was kept out of view of the report- ENTERS U.S. ers traveling with him, but the White House said the couple met WHITE HOUSE PHOTO with hospital staff and first re- President Donald Trump and first lady Melania Trump greet a shooting survivor Wednesday Faith leader was in custody sponders and spent time with at Miami Valley Hospital in Dayton, Ohio. Nine people were killed in the attack on Sunday. in Tijuana after his victory; wounded survivors and their families. Trump avoided the Oregon Trump’s rhetoric for inflaming could be “the example to the government may appeal Trump told them he was “with District where the shooting in political and racial tensions in the United States of America.” them,” said press secretary Dayton took place, and just a country. Some said Trump was Emotions are still raw in both BY KATE MORRISSEY Stephanie Grisham. “Everybody short drive from Miami Valley not welcome in their city. There cities in the aftermath of the received him very warmly. Every- Hospital, where he visited. Day- were Trump supporters, as well. weekend shootings. Critics con- The first person from the “Re- body was very, very excited to see ton Mayor Nan Whaley said he In El Paso, former Rep. Beto tend Trump’s own words have main in Mexico” program to win asy- him.” Trump said the same about would not have been welcome in O’Rourke spoke to several hun- contributed to a combustible cli- lum has been released into the U.S. his reception in the few moments the Oregon District, where scores dred people at a separate gather- mate that has spawned death after the government considered he spoke with the media at a 911 of demonstrators congregated, ing. O’Rourke, a potential Demo- and other violence. sending him back to Tijuana. call center in El Paso. holding anti-Trump signs and cratic 2020 presidential rival, has The vitriol continued Wednes- The man, a 30-year-old from Trump also offered his own af- chanting “Do something!” in a blistered Trump as a racist insti- day. Honduras known as Alec, spent firmation on Twitter: “It was a call for stricter gun laws. gator, but he also told those in his Trump’s motorcade passed El nearly 24 hours in custody following warm & wonderful visit. Tremen- Outside the hospital, at least audience the open way the people Paso protesters holding “Racist his asylum win on Tuesday. His at- dous enthusiasm & even Love.” 200 protesters gathered, blaming of his hometown treat each other SEE TRUMP • A6 torney, along with Alliance San Di- ego and local faith leaders, publi- cized the situation early Wednesday. The government had said in court that it might appeal the judge’s decision in Alec’s case. Though he’s been released, it’s not 11-MONTH-OLD IS COUNTY’S yet clear whether the government intends to appeal. Many were concerned that if the FIRST MEASLES CASE OF 2019 man were returned to Mexico after seek medical attention. SEE RELEASED • A11 Health department urges Though public health investiga- anyone with symptoms to tors are working to verify immunity with all known contacts of the 11- seek immediate treatment month-old who appears to have been admitted to Kaiser Permanente Hos- BY PAUL SISSON pital on Monday, it’s important to NEWS cast as wide a net as possible to pre- Alocal infant recently hospital- vent an outbreak similar to those U.N. ISSUES STARK ized with the region’s first measles seen across the United States this case of 2019 has the San Diego year, said Dr. Eric McDonald, medi- CLIMATE WARNING County public health department cal director of the county’s epidemi- working overtime to prevent an out- ology and immunization services Anew United Nations re- break. branch. port warns that land and water In a notice released Wednesday “We hope, with the public’s help, resources are being exploited afternoon, the San Diego County that we can contain this at just one at “unprecedented rates,” Health and Human Services Agency case,” McDonald said. which — coupled with climate warned the public of possible expo- According to the county’s state- change — is putting pressure sures to the highly contagious virus ment Wednesday, the baby, whose on the ability to feed the world’s at two locations operated by the Kai- gender was not released, was not im- population. Story, A13. ser Permanente health system, urg- munized against measles infection ing anyone with a fever and a rash to SEE MEASLES • A12

NIGHT+DAY U-T INDEX THE BEST OF BRUNCH Comics C5 Editorial B10 Movies ND26 Scores D3 Crossword F3 Horoscope F3 Obituaries B15 Te levision ND25 We love these 10 restaurants with unique takes on the dining trend that won’t die, brunch. ND6 Dear Abby F3 Letters B10 Stocks C3 Weather A14 08.08–08.14 Herb &Wood’s THE SANDIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE Dutch Baby WEEKLYENTERTAINMENT GUIDE SouffléPancake THETHE BEBESTST BRUNCH If you’re goingto wait in line fora LEONID & boozy breakfast, FRIENDS makesure RUSSIA’S it’s top-notch TRIBUTE BAND IS PAGE 6 BACK IN THE USA 12

By William Shakespeare (619) 23-GLOBE (234-5623) Directedted byby BBarrarryEy Eddele stein TheOldGlobe.org PhotobyJim Cox. 6 19 GUST 8, 20 AU • AY THURSD | BRUNCH, THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE

Loxand BEGRUDGINGLY wood-fired at Herb &Wood in Little Italy. We hate brunch, but we love these 10 restaurantswith unconventional takes on the dining trend thatwon’tdie

CHRIS COSTA BY MICHELE PARENTE vanilla waffle with lemon , 7 & PAM KRAGEN sweetened ricotta and hot smoked almonds. No syrup necessary. 1011 THURSD aybe it’s just a Fort Stockton Drive, Mission Hills. pretext for day (619) 722-3398.fortoaksd.com drinking, or an Herb & Wood

excuse to load up AY on carbs, or a Brian Malarkey’s beautiful, guilt-free way to bustling and delicious Little Italy • AU sleep late and laze hotspot could lead a master class about every Sun- in serving unique brunch dishes. 20 8, GUST M day. Sure, there’s avocado toast, but Whatever is why not opt for the sense-awak- fueling the brunch craze — at least ening burrata and crispy prosciut-

adecade in and showing no signs to toast, with a touch of local hon- 19 of ebbing — it can’t be the hack- ey and cracked black pepper? |

neyed Hollandaise being ladled H&W’s signature wood-fired pizza UNION-TRIBUNE DIEGO SAN THE out by the bucketful, the cheap comes in four varieties, but we O.J. and even cheaper bubbly loved the ode to New York: salmon being endlessly poured, or the lox pizza with everything spice (as cringe-inducing colossal portions. in ), crème fraîche, red onion, And don’t even get us started on capers, sieved egg and little pops the lines to get in or the bloated of trout roe. Luscious pull-apart prices and — can we all say jump monkey bread is listed on the the shark? — Bloody Marys gar- menu under “Sweet Start,” and nished with pizza, burgers or fried because of the limited availability, chicken. we’d suggest you order it first. And yet, you persist: You con- Lightly drizzled with caramel and tinue to line up and brunch places sesame and topped with tahini continue to open. gelato, it’s a one-of-a-kind dish. Several prolific local breakfast One small quibble: The Dun- chains are debuting new locations geness crab hash could use more at a clip faster than you can crack crab and less potatoes. an egg. And nearly every estab- FORT OAK 2210 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy. lished casual and fine dining Fort Oak’s Tahitian vanilla waffle with lemon curd, sweetened ricotta and hot smoked almonds. (619) 955-8495. herbandwood.com restaurant in the county has given in to the boozy brunch trend. restaurant with Thai, Balinese, Little Frenchie To stand out in this sea of Filipino and Vietnamese-inspired Brunch at this new Coronado scrambles, the morning meal is French toast, hash and egg dishes. beachy bistro is like being whisked increasingly coming with a twist. Or those that are curated by truly off to Paris, complete with a One of our favorite spots in San talented chefs who don’t give their Champagne and cheese bar and a Diego, the East Village’s You & skills a day off just because it’s legit, stripped-down French herb Yours Distilling Co., just launched Sunday, like Brad Wise’s Fort Oak omelet. Order the spectacular asmall, creative brunch menu in Mission Hills, whose smoked pastry basket (with flaky, buttery that deploys its not-so-secret lamb shoulder hash with a sunny- croissants, scones and mini Dan- weapons: You & Yours vodka and side-up egg, potatoes, pickled ish) and the lightest and gin. Among the dishes to pair with peppers, mint, vadouvan aioli and smoothest smoked salmon ril- anew lineup of cocktails are cilantro is an elevated egg-tastic lettes you’ll ever have — it’s not Bloody Mary toast, with vodka- version of the soulful cooking he Paris, it’s California, so chef Matt cured salmon, roasted tomato serves up at night. Sramekhas subbed out the butter cream cheese, lemon zest, cherry So if you must brunch, for yogurt crème fraîche. , tomato and micro celery; and San Diego, here are 10 places we gruyère and caramelized onion stuffed French toast, with cherry think you should try. quiche tastes altogether authen- jam and cream cheese filling, a tic, as does the croque madame on corn flake crust and Provisional Fort Oak brioche, with ham, creamy Comté Gin cherry sauce. Classy and urbane, Fort Oak is mornay and sunny-side-up egg. The new daytime eatery Break- MICHELE PARENTE U-T abeacon in the boring brunch Albacore Niçoise salad is always a fast Bitch in Hillcrest uses cheeky Little Lion’s creamy mozzarella on black olive bread with depths, with wonderful wood-fired healthy choice, but le burger is branding and sassy swearing in prosciutto and homemade romesco sauce. dishes emanating from the cus- how we rouler.It’s topped with the vein of L.A.’s crazy successful, tom 7,000-pound grill. You can’t go onion confit, aioli, a sunny-side-up and prim by comparison, Eggslut. bust cris de coeur with tongue in with their ham and eggs, a new wrong with any dish, whether it’s hen egg and warm cheese And North Park will soon see the planted only partially in cheek — take on poutine, or maybe some the unconventional charred poured over the burger tableside. opening of Flap Your Jacks, where writer Steffi Victorioso explains Instagrammable doughnuts, but caulilini,with fermented chile It’s served with crispy duck fat brunchers will make their own the sad culinary dynamic that is the souls of these restaurants are aioli, shallot vinaigrette, smoked frites, so you’ll be thankful at least pancakes on personal griddles brunch. dying. We are killing their beautiful almonds and currants, or a twist for the butter-less rillettes. right at the table. (We’re sorry, but “Restaurants don’t do brunch souls. The blood of their souls is on on a classic like the aforemen- 1166 Orange Ave., Coronado. if we’re cooking our own breakfast, because they’re adding something our hands.” tioned smoked lamb shoulder (619) 675-0041. bluebridge we’re showing up in a tattered robe new and beautiful to Los Angeles’s All melodrama aside, we’re not hash, or the breakfast meatballs, hospitality.com/little-frenchie and fuzzy slippers.) eclectic and world-class restau- trying to kill off this overdone with two eggs, country biscuits, Brunch is in no way a San Diego rant scene,” she said. “They do it ritual. We are simply trying to red eye and butter. One of Little Lion phenomenon. From Portland to because they have to. There are elevate it. That’s why we went in the best burgers in town is on the This postage-stamp-sized Williamsburg to Silver Lake, it is, more chefs doing brunch now than search of places that eschew the menu: with dry-aged beef, aged charmer has serious San Diego as they say, a thing. ever because there is money to be clichéd, conventional approach to cheddar, truffle onion jam, fried culinary cred and crowds of cus- In a 2017 Los Angeles Magazine made off the hordes of hungry and brunch, ones that are inspired by egg and aioli. And if you seek per- tomers to prove it. The Coulon article titled “Why is brunch still a hungover weekend . Restau- global dishes, like Oceanside’s fection on a plate, you’ll find it in sisters — Anne-Marie, Jacqueline thing?” — which reads like a ro- rants make a killing by luring you Dija Mara, a Southeast Asian the whisper-light, crispy, Tahitian and Dominique — hail from the 8 family that brought us the beloved goddess dressing. But our favorite and groundbreaking Belgian Lion. is the Oeuf, which is scrambled So it’s in their genes to serve ele- eggs topped with ,

19 vated brunch fare like baked green chives and espelette pepper sea- eggs with cream, Cypress Grove soning served over halves of a goat cheese, sautéed greens, leeks baked-from-scratch English muf- and a pesto-ish house-made fin. Reservations fill up quickly, so chimichurri or creamy mozzarella plan ahead. 2659 State St., Carls- GUST 8, 20 on black olive bread with silky bad. (760) 737-5266. jeune-jolie.com AU slices of prosciutto and home- • made romesco sauce. Not surpris- Dija Mara

AY ingly, every other dish we saw If you haven’t heard of chef coming out the kitchen was the Ryan Costanza’sBalinese/Indone- with whipped sian bistro yet, it may be because cream and mixed berries. Also not O’siders are trying to keep the THURSD asurprise: With very limited seat- fast-rising 28-seat restaurant a | ing and a no-reservation policy, secret. Open since fall 2017, the the wait to get in can be long. Put fine-dining spot is famous for its your name down on the list and be Nasi Goreng, a decadent fried rice patient. But maybe don’t be and egg dish that’s also the star of tempted to walk along Sunset its brunch menu. Costanza honed Cliffs, as we were. Our table came his technique in Singapore, Korea up sooner than we were told it and Japan and worked at Luk- would, and when we got back, we shon, L.A.’s revered Southeast had to wait another half-hour. The Asian restaurant. As at Jeune et sides of crispy Belgian Lion po- Jolie, the menu has familiar- tatoes and tasty duck bacon jal- sounding breakfast dishes, but apeño helped make up for with a difference, like the Thai it. 1424 Sunset Cliffs Blvd., AUBREY KRAGEN sausage hash, the Kaya French Point Loma. (619) 756-6921. The Croque Madame brunch at Jeune et Jolie, a French restaurant in Carlsbad. toast with coconut pandan jam, thelittlelioncafe.com and the sourdough toast with

THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE quickly her body responded to a cultured Koji butter. New to Morning Glory clean, healthy diet. Now local Southeast Asian cuisine? Try the Fellow brunch-hater Arsalun diners can benefit from their dis- $15 Nasi Lemak Breakfast plate, Tafazoli set out to change the coveries. The cheery cafés serve a with a mix of proteins, veggies and brunch narrative in San Diego and chef-driven, seasonal menu of sides. 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sundays. instead blew it up with his riot- sustainable coffees, teas, elixir 232 S. Coast Highway, Oceanside. ously pink antidote to the banal in health drinks, gluten-free and (760) 231-5376. dijamara.com Little Italy. Morning Glory’s stun- vegan pastries, and egg and fresh- ning $4 million interior, by style veggie-focused entrees. Signature The Florence master Paul Basile, and sprawling items are the turmeric latte; avo- Another hidden gem is this yet focused, inventive menu from cado toast with crunchy mung lovely and affordable full-service chef/partner Jason McLeodtake beans and beet spirals; mango restaurant/bar, which opened in brunch to a new level. Nearly every chutney toast; and grilled vegeta- April in a North County business dish is divine, but we’re particu- ble bowl with buckwheat noodles. park. It’s named for San Diego’s larly in love with the , 7a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. 927 Silverado legendary long-distance swimmer Georgian cheese and egg bread, St., La Jolla; 1680 India St., Little Florence Chadwick, whose photos, the chilaquiles, Omelet Sando Italy; 3745 Paseo Place, Suite 820, trophies, personal mementos and with katsuobushi (dried tuna Del Mar. parakeetcafe.com even the swimsuit she wore while flakes) on Wonder Bread, the Egg crossing the English Channel in McFunnin, and each of the glori- Jeune et Jolie 1950 adorn the walls. Chadwick ous pancake varieties (classic This charming eight-month- traveled the world, and that’s flapjacks, Japanese soufflé and old French eatery in Carlsbad reflected in chef Ricardo Heredia’s German). Be forewarned: It’s Village has already established a globally inspired menu. The excel- crazy crowded and they don’t take following for its exquisite dinner lent brunch menu includes the reservations. One work-around is menu. Less known, but no less soul-satisfying broken rice por- to go during the week when you PARAKEET CAFÉ accomplished, is the 90-seat ridge, with the surprise of chicken can also enjoy the sophisticated, The grilled vegetable bowl with buckwheat noodles at Parakeet restaurant’s weekend brunch meatballs hidden inside, ginger, newly launched tea service, Mon- Cafe in the One Paseo development in Del Mar. menu. Chef Andrew Bachelier’s scallions, cured egg yolk shavings day-Friday from noon to 3 p.m. 550 brunch menu is petite, with just and a dash of spicy chili oil. There’s W. Date St., Little Italy. (619) 629- have food allergies, so everything (858) 209-0149. nine prepared items plus a raw also the perfectly cooked salmon 0302. morningglorybreakfast.com they make, both at home and for homesteadsolalabeach.com bar, but they’re all created with paillard with arugula, grapes and their customers, is made from thoughtfulness and detail. The house Hollandaise. House-baked The Homestead scratch with mostly organic, local Parakeet Café dishes sound like what you’d find pastries include the Chadwick You may be surprised that one ingredients. The menu is small, Carol Roizen and Jonathan on an American brunch menu bun, which is a brioche cinnamon of the county’s best waffles is being but every item is delicious, like the Goldwasser have a similar story to (there’s an omelet and a French roll, the indulgent chocolate crois- served at this new Solana Beach Homestead made with the Brawns’ in what turned them toast), but they’re prepared with sant bread pudding, and cute little cafe owned by Root Cellar cater- Root Cellar’s famous braised beef toward serving healthy, fresh and classic French technique. Start blueberry taiyaki, a Japanese ing’s Jamie and Marie Brawn. But short rib. And the shaved farm mostly organic food at their three with a bowl of made-to-order pastry shaped like a fish, in Chad- the real shocker is that Home- beet and lemon thyme ricotta Parakeet Cafés in La Jolla, Little beignets, rolled in granulated wick’s honor. Kilroy Sabre stead’s featherlight and deli- salad is the perfect summer meal. Italy and, most recently, Del Mar. sugar and served with sides of Springs, 13480 Evening Creek ciously crispy brown butter waffles Pair it with one of the restaurant’s Their youngest daughter, vanilla crème and fresh apricot Drive N., Suite 150, San Diego. with house-made walnut butter popular lavender lattes. There Michelle, now a healthy 13-year- jam. Consider the salad Lyon- (858) 433-1545.theflorencesd.com are gluten-free. So are the muffins, may be a wait on weekends, but it’s old athlete, needed chemotherapy naise, which is generously laden breads and luscious chicken pot worth it. 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. 346 as a baby and the then-Mexico with crispy cubes of smoked lar- [email protected] hand-pies. The couple’s two sons S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach. City couple discovered how don and a finger-licking green [email protected]