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Behind the Scenes

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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Jozef Avgoustakis, Julian Vadas, Jyoti Care- swell K Kacie Youso, Kamal Paliwal, Kate Many thanks to the travellers who used the Vallance, Ken Badenoch, Ken Lau, Kevin last edition and wrote to us with helpful Parsons, Kevin Yuih, Koisty Jones L Laska hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Pare, Laura Monfort, Laurent Guillet, Lenita dotes: Canon, Lily Martens, Linda Johansson, Linda A Aar Nuss, Adi Bloom, Alerta Suvion, Vega & Rowan Fraser, Lisa Chung, Lodewijk Alex Jones, Alexa Owen, Alice Bell, Alwin Portielje M Maarten Dallinga, Marcel Ottiger, Siegersma, Amy Benson, Andrea Andersen, Marcel Phaf, Maria Morera, Mark Anderson, Andrew Johnson, Andy Brown, Anne D’hey- Mark Bell, Markus Kremmler, Marta Rasi, gers, Anne & Michel Ropion, Avril Ingram Martin Salamanca, Mary Fairfield, Matan Gilat, B Bar Sayada, Behemoth Lopez, Benoit Michael Snaith, Michal Sasson, Mick Radford, Milena Schulz, Molshree Aggarwal N Nadav Valdelievre, Bernhard Bouzek, Bronte Rhodes C Carrie Campbell, Catherine Heintz, Cerafin Atik, Niccki Brooks, Nicholas Tippins, Ni- Lampion, Charlotte Bibby, Charlotte De Val, kesh Jethva, Noele Phillips, Ntsiki Anderson Chris Beales, Cindy Bendat, Cord Rehren, O Oliver Heard, Olwen Herbison, Orian Craig Wilson, Cyriac Schmit D Daniel Shalev P Patrick Berg, Pernilla Becker, Peter Walker, Petra O’Neill, Philippa Watts R Ra- Brewer, David Hanslian E Emily Crawford, Estela Roman F Faezah Sani, François chel Hirschi, Rachel Savin, Rafael Higuerars, Béga, Francois-Alexandre Tremblay, Frank Reinout Hekel, Renata Grabowska, Richard Gordon, Richard Jenkins, Rishabh Jain, Robin Damato G Gayle Wells, Geoff Spencer, Gerard Hengeveld, Ginevra Massari, Graeme Hedges, Robyn Williams, Rod Little, Roya Rou- Spedding, Guenter Gloeckle, Guy Kohn, Guy zbehani, Rupert Hart, Ryrie Bridges S Sajid Saunders H Hanna Tadesse, Hans Heckel, Chougle, Sam Burns, Sanne van Heuveln, Hidde Jansen, Hironobu Ichikawa, Hoel Shah Singh, Shelby Sangster, Sion Massip, Achermann, Holly Pearson I Ian Curwen, Sue Sullman, Suzanne Jacob & David Lloyd Indara Rodriguez, Indrani Ganguly, Itamar T Tania Sadler, Tanneke Huttner, Terry Rugg, Weissbein J Jadwiga Rudy, James Clark, Tom Salman, Tom Stuart, Tony Walmsley James Nolan, James Wales, Jay Prasuna, U Uwe Müller V Veronika Stalz, Viacheslav Jeffrey Gold, Jessica Smith, Jessica Tracey, Shuper, Vishvas Vasuki W William Cous- Jo Kirkpatrick, Joanna Schmidt, John Fuhr- ins X Xaver Reinhardt & Jaqueline Mayer man, Jon Dean, Jon Vegard, Jordan Thomas, Y Yulia Yulish, Yuma Nakamura 1222 limericks and the gin, and in Pushkar, Anna THANKS Voss for the fairy lights and being a lovely Sarina Singh neighbour. Thank you also to fellow authors Coordinating a book of this scale was a Sarina Singh, and Daniel McCrohan for the delight thanks to a dedicated team of accom- kebabs, Karim’s and Kingfishers in . plished writers and editorial staff – massive Mark Elliott BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND thanks to you all. Gratitude, also, to our many readers who took the time to send in their Many thanks to Rouf and family in Srinagar, feedback and share travel experiences. Final- Najum, Hamza and Muzamil in , Rajesh, ly, warm thanks to my parents for being so Mowgli, Jai and Bunny in , high-flying incredibly awesome. Simone, Aadil in Anantnag, Selim and Cham- ba in , Stenzin Motup, Jaweed Ahmad, Michael Benanav Zalina and Nabila, Lal Kumar, Sumit, Tony Huge thanks to Lalji, Neeta, Sonal, Ashwin and Inge, Sophie, Tim and the crazy Nimaling and their families, for their hospitality and gang. Bless you Kate for joining the ever-deeper insights into all things Gujarati. Himalayan adventures and making the treks In , thanks go to Manto and De- so much more memorable. Eternal thanks as bopam for help getting beneath the surface ever to my beloved parents. of the state. A special thanks to Adina, for running down a few details for me, for picking Paul Harding up that book about Rajula Malushahi, and for Thanks to Hannah and Layla for accom- entertaining musings on the terrace in Kasar panying me to and putting up with my . And thanks to Kelly and Luke, for keep- absence while in . Cheers to Joe for ing everything cool back home. entrusting me with such a great part of . In India, thanks to all who offered advice and Abigail Blasi company but especially to all the friends in Thank you Joe Bindloss and Sarina Singh, Goa and Kerala that I met up with again – you CE and CA supreme, and to my wonderful all know who you are! co-authors. Thanks in Delhi to Sarah Foth- eringham, to Nicolas Thompson and Danish Trent Holden Abbas, to Dilliwala Mayank Austen Soofi, to Thanks first up to Joe Bindloss for giving me Rajinder and Surinder Budhraja, to Nirinjan the opportunity again to work again on In- and Jyoti Desai, my Delhi family, and to Luca dia – a seriously dream gig. As well as to my for holding the . co-authors, especially Sarina for all the help and tips along the way. A shout out to all the good folk I met along the road and shared a Paul Clammer beer with. But as always my biggest thanks Thanks – and apologies – to everyone I met goes to my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my on the road who helped with research, with- family and friends who I all miss back home out realising that is a place best in Melbourne. covered anonymously for Lonely Planet. I wish I could have told you what I was doing! Anirban Mahapatra It would have been immeasurably harder My thanks, as always, to the entire editorial however if I hadn’t had a confidante along and production team at Lonely Planet, and to the way, so my biggest thanks and love go to my awesome fellow authors for making this Robyn – sidekick and constant companion, colossal project a reality. On the ground (in in India as she is everywhere else I go. In no particular order), my sincerest thanks to Fatehpur and Bikaner, thank you Jean for the Sangey, Oken, Aaron, Audrey, Babul, Monjit,

This guidebook was Dankell, Kate Evans, Carly Hall, THIS BOOK produced by the following: Gabbi Innes, Kellie Langdon, This 16th edition of Lonely Rosie Nicholson, Samantha Planet’s India guidebook Destination Editor Joe Bindloss Forge, Paul Harding, Victoria was researched and written Harrison, Kate Kiely, Lauren Kate by Sarina Singh, Abigail Product Editors O’Connell, Kathryn Rowan, Mathews, Alison Ridgway Blasi, Michael Benanav, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Paul Clammer, Mark Elliott, Book Designer Jeanette Wall Paul Harding, Trent Holden, Katherine Marsh Cover Researcher Anirban Mahapatra, Daniel Assisting Book Designer Naomi Parker McCrohan, Isabella Noble, Clara Monitto Thanks to Lonely Planet John Noble, Kevin Raub Assisting Editors Kate and Iain Stewart. Cartography, Wayne Murphy, Chapman, Nigel Chin, Melanie Ellie Simpson 1223 Jyoti, Anit, Nino, Kanno, Bambang, Hoihnu, Jakamur Chauhan, Jonty Rajagopalan, Ashish Yishey, Hemanta, Rahul, Norden, Hemlata, and Rucha Gupta, Praveen Sood, the Dhami Rintu, Binod, Ajay and Boomoni for all their family of Chamba, Karanbir Singh Bedi, Ankit help in fields as diverse as spirited long-dis- Sood and Vaneet Rana. Thanks also to Alice tance driving, logistical troubleshooting, McGuigan and Sarina Singh and the fantastic local knowledge, culinary prowess and, author team, especially Isabella Noble with above all, for being great hosts, co-travellers whom it was wonderful to share so much of BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND and friends in general. Finally, hats off to this project! Castleton Tea Estate, for their awesome teas that kept me awake through the wee writing Kevin Raub hours. Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who gladly ships me off to India without Daniel McCrohan her! Joe Bindloss; at LP On the road, Anil My biggest thanks goes to my uncle, David Whadwa, Mini-Google, Shiron Haider, Shibab Campos, who had to put up with me dragging Haider, Naghma Haider, Aisha Khan, Mukal him round half of India, just so that I could Kumar, Guatam Singh, Megha Singh, Naheed have some company on my trip! All my love, Varma, Harish Rijhwani, Malika Rijhwani, too, to the rest of my family back home, es- Rochikant Mishra, Nicole Seregni, Fernanda pecially my darling wife and our two amazing Polacow, Marta Delellis, Rashi Rajoria, R.K. children. In Punjab, thank you to Bimla Lyall Rai, Saptarishi Saigal, Awesh Ali, Eli Rasaero MBE for a fascinating introduction to Sikhism and Ivan and Pixie Lamech. (and for being the first person I’ve met who’s got an MBE!). In , thanks to John Dun- Iain Stewart can and the rest of the Southampton Univer- It was great to hang with Laksh in sity research team. And many thanks to my and have a virtual beer with Paul Harding by colleagues Kevin Raub, Mark Elliott and Trent the sea. Thanks to the good folk at the MTDC Holden for tips and advice. all over the state, particularly Mr Shaker and Mrs Singh in . I’m also very grateful Isabella Noble to Aditya in Nagpur and Tadoba, Maria in Ma- Cheers to everyone who helped out in Tamil theran and the merry musicians of Kolhapur. Nadu, Ashish and Rucha Gupta for endless hospitality, Bernard Dragon and Rom Whitak- er, and Junaid Sait for saving the day when I ACKNOWLEDGMENTS forgot to book Ooty accommodation. Special Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, thanks to fellow authors Abi and Sarina for Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- girl support, and to Andrew for Pondy fun ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate and keeping me sane in Trichy. At home, huge Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System thanks to Jacky and Paps for the laughs and Sciences, 11, 163344. advice. Mostly, to Susan Forsyth, for being Illustrations pp1160-1, pp1162-3, p1164 by there always. Kelli Hamblet; pp370-1, pp874-5 by Michael John Noble Weldon; pp62-3, pp356-7, pp640-1 by Javier Zarracina. Thanks to everybody in India who answered Cover photograph: , /Peter my questions, pointed me in the right Adams/AWL direction and helped with the logistics of a fabulous trip, especially Sumit Raj Vashisht, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1224

Index

A 590-1 archaeology Bhuvaneshwari Ayurvedic accommodation 1178-80, Ajanta 12, 788-91, 789, 12 Mumbai walking tour 754 Pharmacy 720 see also individual 132-4, 133 architecture 13, 1160-4 Chandigarh 201 locations ’s Mausoleum 355 area codes 19, 1190 Delhi 79 activities 24-8, see also Akshardham 78-9 art galleries, see museums 113-14 individual activities Alappuzha (Alleppey) & galleries Jamnagar 724 Adalaj Vav 699 958-62, 960, 13 arts 1155-9, see also Kerala 950 people 684 254-5 individual arts 644 591-2, 591 Alexander the Great 1109 Aru 275 Kochi 978 Agonda 848-9 577-84 385-90, 386 Kollam (Quilon) 955 Ashoka 1109, 1110 Agra 51, 350, 351-68, 351, 448-50 946 , Ashokan Edicts 718-19 358 360 Along 580-1 Madikeri 884, 885 accommodation 350, Ashokan Rock Edicts 609 altitude sickness 1208-9 1025 359-63 ashrams 42 Alwar 129-30 McLeod Ganj 324 activities 358 Anandwan 794 Amaravathi 931 Mysuru 876 climate 350 Kausani 452 Amarnath 278 Orchha 636 drinking & nightlife 365 Amrithanandamayi Amber 124-5 Periyar Wildlife emergencies 366 Mission 957 Sanctuary 967 Amber Fort 124-5 food 350, 363-5 Poondi 1073 Puducherry 1037 amoebic dysentery 1207 highlights 351 Puducherry 1035 Pushkar 135 Amritsar 212-21, 214, 17 medical services 366 Pune 803 941 Amte, Murlidhar Devidas shopping 365-9 415 ‘Baba’ 794 Udaipur 155 sights 351-8 Ashram 689 Anamalai Reserve 397 tourist information 366-7 1074 792-3 Wayanad Wildlife tours 358-9 Anandpur Sahib 209-10 Sivananda Yoga Sanctuary 994 Dhanwantari Ashram travel seasons 350 Andaman Islands 54, 1084- 946 travel to/from 367-8 102, 1085 Surfing Ashram 893 B travel within 368 Andamanese people 1099 1033 1113 353-5 53, 910, 951 904-6 (Amdavad) 929-37, 911 436 688-99, 690-1 566-77 902-6 Badshahi Ashurkhana 915 accommodation 694-5 Asvem 838-9 animals, see wildlife, Baga 827-31, 828 festivals & events 692 individual species ATMs 1184-5 Bageshwar 453 food 695-7 Auli 438-9 Anjuna 831-5, 832 Baijnath 334 shopping 697 Aurangabad 780-4, 782 Anmu 262 Baktim 562 sights 689-92 1114-15 antiques 1184 Bamin 579 tours 693-4 Aurobindo Bhawan 459 Apatani people 580 Bandel 492 travel to/from 698 Auroville 1042-3 Araku Valley 935 Bandhavgarh National Park autorickshaws 1199 travel within 699 Arambol (Harmal) 840-1 678-80, 13 Avis Island 1100 906 archaeological sites air travel 1192-3, 1195-6 Laxman Temple 683 384-5 881-2 700 38-9, 954, 41 Archaeological Alappuzha 958 border crossings 499, Park 103 Bengaluru 861 593, 597 Map Pages 000 Minar Complex 102-3 Bhagsu 332 travel to/from 1193-4 Photo Pages 000 Unakoti 595 Bhubaneswar 603 Bansberia 492-3 1225 Bara Imambara 375-8 Sinquerim 825-7 Bibi-qa- 780-1 boat trips Bara Shigri 344 Smith Island 1101 bicycle travel, see cycling Assam 571 Barda Wildlife Sanctuary Talpona 849 Bidar 909 Bhedaghat 674 725 Vagator 835-8, 836 52, 520, 522-36, 521 648 bargaining 1150 Varkala 951 Bijapur (Vijapura) 906-9, Candolim 825 Barkul 617 Visakhapatnam 932-3 907 Diu 711

Basgo 254 bears 903 Bikaner 192-7, 194 Goa 812-13 INDEX Batal 344 Beatles, the 418 Billing 334 Kerala 964-5 255-6 beer 1145 Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary Kochi 979

Bathinda 211-12 998 450-1 1067  B  Bir 334 bathrooms 1190 Belur 887-8 Kollam (Quilon) 955 birds 1167-8 beaches 22 464-5 Kota 146 birdwatching 1167-8 Agonda 848-9 Benaulim 845-8 Lake Pichola 151 Backwoods Camp 827 Alappuzha 958 Bengaluru () 53, Ooty 1077 Bandipur National Park Anjuna 832-5, 856-69, 858-9 815 832 881-2 Arambol (Harmal) 840-1 accommodation 854, Periyar Wildlife 862-3 Barda Wildlife Sanctuary 966 Asvem 838-9 Sanctuary 725 activities 861 950 Baga 827-31, 828 Bhitarkanika Wildlife climate 854 Benaulim 845-8 Sanctuary 623-5 drinking & nightlife 659 Calangute 827-31, 828 865-6 Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary 450-1 Sunderbans Tiger Candolim 825-7 entertainment 866 Reserve 491 Chilika Lake 615-17 Chapora 835-8, 836 food 854, 863-5 Varanasi 396-7 1007 Corbett Tiger Reserve medical services 867 441-4 Bodhgaya 529-33, 530 988 shopping 866-7 & Bodhi Tree 532 Cola Beach 848 sights 857-61 Wildlife Sanctuary 250 Colva 845-8 tourist information 868 714-16 Bollywood 767, 1158 Diu 710-11 tours 861-2 Great Himalayan Bomdila 582 Galgibag 849 travel seasons 854 National Park 298 books 1104, 1127, 1159 Ganpatipule 796 travel to/from 868 899 border crossings 1193-5 Goa 15, 810, 15 travel within 868-9 Havelock Island 1094 Bangladesh 499, 593, Gokarna 893-4 Berhampore 495 Keoladeo Ghana National 597, 1193-4 Havelock Island 1093 Betul 848 Park 126-9 Bhutan 499, 518, 549, Kannur 996 Bhagsu 331-2 Khijadiya Bird 1194, 1195 Sanctuary 725 Kausani 452 Kappil Beach 998 Bhaja 800-1 Kumarakom Bird 405, 408, 499, Kashid Beach 796 Bhandardara 779-80 Sanctuary 965 510, 518, 527, 549, bhang lassi 1183 Kattoor 962-3 Majuli Island 575 1194 Bharatpur 126-9, Kovalam 946 127 Marine National Park Pakistan 181, 219, 220, Little Andaman 1102 Bharmour 339-40 725-6 1195 Long Island 1099 Bhavnagar 705-7, 706 Mumbai 752 1130 Malvan 797 Bhedaghat 674 Nalsarovar Bird 1130 Mamallapuram 1024 Bheemunipatnam 935 Sanctuary 699-700 Brihadishwara Temple Mandarmani 492 Bhimbetka 653 Namdapha National 1047 Mandrem 839-40 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Park 581 Buddha 1135 Sanctuary 623-5 Mangaluru 889 1135-6 Bhojpur 653 572 Marari 962-3 Andhra Pradesh 930 Bhongir 928 426 Mobor 848 Buddhist , see Bhopal 648-52, 649 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger also Hindu temples, Morjim 838-9 Bhramasarovar 208 Reserve 793-4 Jain temples, temples Mumbai 745 Bhubaneswar 600-9, Thattekkad Bird Chorten 323 Neil Island 1097 602-3 Sanctuary 973-4 Global Pagoda 751 Okhamadhi 725 Bhuj 726-31, 727 Vedanthangal Bird Himalayan Nyinmapa Sanctuary 1028 Palolem 849-53 Bhujodi 731 Buddhist Temple 308 Wild Ass Sanctuary 733 Polem Beach 849 Bhuntar 299 Indosan Nipponji Temple Bishnupur 493 Port Blair 1090 Bhutan 529 Blackbuck National Park 611 border crossings 499, Japanese Peace Pagoda 707 Rishikesh 418 518, 549 503 blackbucks 707 Ross Island 1101 travel to/from 1194, 1195 Temple 529 boat travel 1195, 1197, 1199 Shivrajpur 725 Biama 255 529 1226 Buddhist temples caves entertainment 1016-17 Our Lady of Immaculate continued Ajanta 12, 788-91, 789, 12 festivals & events Conception Cathedral 1038 Mahaparinirvana Temple Aurangabad Caves 781 1009-10 406 Sacred Heart Basilica Baratang 1098 food 1013-16 Mathakuar Temple 406 1038 Bhaja 800-1 medicals services 1018 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar shopping 1017-18 Salvation Army Temple Borra Caves 935 590

INDEX INDEX 404 Cave Temples 905 sights 1006-9 652-6, 1164 San Thome Cathedral Edakal Caves 993 tourist information 1018 1008 Thai Temple 529 Ellora 785-8, 786 tours 1009 Santa Cruz Basilica

B-C Tsuglagkhang 320, 321  Forty One Caves 1100 travel to/from 1018-20 975 Wat Thai Complex 406 travel within 1020-1

Kanheri Caves 753 Sé Cathedral 821-2  budget 19, see also costs Karla 800-1 Chennamangalam 989 St Aloysius College buffalo racing 894 Mahadeo Cave 659 Cherrapunjee (Sohra) Chapel 889 Bundi 142-6, 143 597 Cave St Francis 975 bus travel 1197-8, 1199 298 Chettinadu 1054-6 St John in the women travellers 1177 Tabo 349 Chhatrapati Wilderness 324 Maharaj Vastu business hours 1186 Tiger Cave 1022 St John’s Church 461 Sangrahalaya 742-3 Bylakuppe 886 Udaigiri Caves 657 St Paul’s Cathedral 458 Chhatrapati Shivaji St Paul’s Church 710 Udayagiri & Khandagiri Terminus 739-42, 13 Caves 601-2 St Philomena’s C 632, 635 cell phones 18, 1189 Cathedral 873 cable cars 52, 626, Cellular Jail National St Stephen’s Church Auli 438-9 682-5, 627 Memorial 1088 1076 431 Chibo Busty 517 cemeteries St Teresa’s Church 516 445 Chidambaram 1043-4 Dutch Cemetery 975-7 St Thomas’ Cathedral Rangit Valley Ropeway Chiktan 255-6 744 504 War Cemetery 588 children, travel with 47-9 St Thomas Church 459 Calangute 827-31, 460 828 Mumbai 752 cinema 1158 camel festivals Nicholson Cemetery 67 Chilika Lake 615-17 climate 18, 24-8, see also War Cemetery 585 Camel Festival 192 Chiling 253-4 individual regions Cenotaph of Maharaja Pushkar Camel Fair 138 clouded 581, Bakhtawar Singh 129 Chinnar Wildlife camel treks Sanctuary 973 1166 Cha 262 Bikaner 193 Chiriya Tapu 1092-3 1071-3, 1072 chai 1144-5, 1144 Hunder 249 Chitkul 294-5 Colva 845-8 Chalal 302 188-9 Chitrakote Falls 683 consulates 1180-2, 1188 Challisey 517 National Research Chitrakut 390 cooking courses 1143 Chamba 337-9, Centre on Camels 338 (Chittor) Anjuna 832-3 197 Chamba Valley 335-41 147-50, 148 Delhi 79 Osian 182 Champaner 704-5 Chola reign 1110, 1111 Jaipur 114 Pushkar 136 590 choli 1125 Kochi 978 Sam Sand Dunes 192 Chandarnagar 492 Chowmahalla Palace 913 Kolkata 469 Candolim 825-7 Chandigarh 200-7, 202-3 1136 McLeod Ganj 326 canoeing, see also 61 252 970 kayaking, rafting Chandor 845 churches & cathedrals Periyar Wildlife Kerala 965 Chandratal 344 Basilica of Bom Jesus Sanctuary 966 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Changmar 250 821 Puducherry 1036-7 Reserve 793-4 Chapora 835-8, 836 Christ Church 286 Pushkar 136 Capital Complex 200-1 chapura (red ants) 682 Church of Our Lady Udaipur 155 car travel 1198 434-6 of the Immaculate Coonoor 1073-5 carbon-monoxide charas (marijuana) 303 Conception 814 poisoning 1209 Corbett Tiger Reserve Charminar 913 Church of Our Lady of 441-4 Carnival 24 the Mount 822 Chehni 298 costs carpets 1148-9 Church of St Cajetan 245-6 accommodation 1178, cash 1185 822 Chennai (Madras) 54, 1179 caste system 1125-6, 1127 Church of St Francis of 1003-21, 1004-5, car travel 1198 Cavelossim 848 Assisi 822 1010-11 food 1182 Lourdes Church 1052 accommodation 1010-13 taxis 1199 MacFarlane Church 516 activities 1009 train travel 1202, 1203 Map Pages 000 Notre Dame des Anges courses 1009 Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary Photo Pages 000 1038 drinking & nightlife 1016 849 1227 courses, see also cooking of Khwaja Muin-ud- Delwara Temples 165 elephant rides & safaris courses, language din Chishti 132 dengue fever 1207 Amber 124 courses, yoga courses Darjeeling 52, 489, 500-12, Dha 255-6 Betla (Palamau) National block 114 502, 512, 14 Dhainkund 336 Park 539 dance 753 accommodation 506-8 Dhankar 348 Jaldhapara Wildlife language 1183 activities 505 Dhanushkodi 1062 Sanctuary 498-9

martial arts 941 courses 506 Dharamkot 331-2 INDEX mountaineering 504 drinking & nightlife 509 572-3 Dharamsala 318-20, 319 music 136, 155, 397, Kochi 979 emergencies 510 744 753, 876 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve food 508-9  C-E 891 1082 painting 155 internet access 510

 Dhauli 609-10 textile painting 1009 Periyar Wildlife itineraries 505 dhoti 1125 Craggy Island 1101 Sanctuary 967 medical services 510 diarrhoea 1207-8 credit cards 1174, 1185 Pobitora Wildlife shopping 509-10 Dibrugarh 576-7 Sanctuary 571 cricket 1128-9 sights 501-5 digital photography 1187 1074 crocodiles tourist information 510 Diglipur 1100-2 Elephanta Island 751-2 tours 506 1074 584 elephants 1165, 21, see travel to/from 511-12 also elephant rides & Bhitarkanika Wildlife diphtheria 1205 travel within 512 safaris Sanctuary 623-5 Dirang 582 Darjeeling Himalayan Alappuzha 958 Madras Crocodile Bank disabilities, travellers with Railway 511 1022 1190 Bandipur National Park Daroji 881-2 647 248-9 Sanctuary 903 Betla (Palamau) National Satkosia Gorge distilleries Daulatabad 784-5 Park 538-9 Sanctuary 608 Mysuru 871 Deban 581 Chinnar Wildlife cultural programs Diu 708-13, 709 deer 1166-7 Sanctuary 973 Anegundi 903 diving Dehra Dun 426-30, 427 Corbett Tiger Reserve Kerala Kalamandalam Baga 827 441-4 Delhi 16, 50, 56-103, , 991 58-9 Calangute 827 14, 16 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Natana Kairali Research Chiriya Tapu 1092-3 1082-3 & Performing Centre accommodation 56, Goa 812-13 Nagarhole National for Traditional Arts 991 80-6 Havelock Island 1093-4 Park 883 culture 1124-9 activities 79 Lakshadweep 999 Parambikulam Wildlife currency 18 climate 56 Long Island 1100 Sanctuary 974 customs regulations 1180 Connaught Place 68-9, Malvan 797 Rajaji National Park cycle-rickshaws 1199 83, 88-9, 94-5, 68-9 426 Malvan National Marine cycling 1196-7 courses 79-80 Park 798 Similipal National Park Delhi 80 drinking & nightlife 91-2 622 Neil Island 1097 Jaipur 114 entertainment 93 Wayanad Wildlife 24 Kochi 979 festivals & events 57 Sanctuary 993 dolphins Kodaikanal 1067 food 56, 86-91 Ellora 785-8, 786 Candolim 825 Leh 229 highlights 58-9 Eluru 931 Chilika Lake 615-17 Orchha 636 medical services 98 embassies 1180-2, 1188 Colva 846 Pachmarhi 659 metro map 98 embroidery, see dosas 1140 Puducherry 1037 69-76, 84, handicrafts Dr Graham’s Home 515 Udaipur 154 89-90, 95-6, 72-3 emergencies 19 Dravidian politics 1007 60-7, 81, 93, language 1213, 1215 64-5, 14 drinks 1143-5 environmental issues drinking water 1208 D Paharganj 81-3, 87-8, 81 1171-2 dabba-wallahs 761 safety 97-8 driving, see car travel climate change 1172 Dada Hari Ni Vav 692 shopping 93-103 driving licences 1200 1168, 1172 Dalai 324 sights 60-79 drugs 303, 1174 Dalhousie 335-6, 335 76-8, 84-5, Dudhsagar Falls 847 1167 Daman 704 90-1, 97, 76-7 Duta 579 Goa 824 dance 1155 tourist information 98 725 internet resources 1171 Dandi 704 tours 80 Dzongri 561-2, 562 Kerala 965 dangers, see safety travel seasons 56 volunteering 46 Daporijo 580 water 234, 1172 travel to/from 98-101 E Darbargadh 726-7 travel within 101-2 economy 1105 Darchiks 255 973 84, 87-8 electricity 1180 1228 etiquette 1106, 1135, 1143 470, 472 Kerala 940 Poush Mela 490, 494 events 24-8 Dussehra 57, 281, 490, Khecheopalri Mela 559 President’s Trophy Boat Excelsior Island 1101 628, 683, 694, 777, Ki Chaam Festival 346 Race 955 exchange rates 19 861, 878 Kila Raipur Sports Punjab 200 Elephant Festival 111 Festival 200 Puri Beach Festival Elephanta Festival 737 Kolkata 470, 490 600, 611

INDEX INDEX F Eliora Ajanta Aurangabad 470 Purinima 380 Faridkot 212 Festival 777 Kolkata Film Festival 470 Pushkar Camel Fair 111 Fatehpur 171 Ernakulathappan Kollam 955 Qutb Festival 57 369-73, Utsavam 940, 979 E-F Konark Festival 600, 614 Rajasthan 111  370-1 Fama de Menino Jesus Rajasthan International

Kottamkulangara  67 812 Chamaya Vilakku 955 Folk Festival 175 festivals & events 24-8 Feast of Our Lady of the Kullu Dussehra 306 Mahotsava 522, Adivasi Mela 600, 604 Immaculate 661 534 Ahilyabai Holkar Jayanti Conception 812, 815 223 Ram Barat 355 Mahotsav 628, 669 Feast of St Francis Lakshadeepotsava 861 Ram Lila 380 Ambubachi Mela 568 Xavier 812 281, 326, 542, Ras Mahotsav 568, 575 Ananya Dance Feast of the Three Kings 568, 583 470, 490, Festival 57 812 Losoong 542 600, 611 Andhra Pradesh 912 Festival of Dance 628 628 57 Baisakhi 200 Free Spirit Film Festival 326 Magh Mela 380, 415, Rongali 568 Bastille Day 1038 737, 628, 661 Sabado Gordo 812 Beating of the Retreat 57 777, 861 Dance 550 Saga Dawa 542 Bengali New Year 490 Ganga Sagar Mela 490 Festival 689 Sagar Festival 492 Bhavnath Mela 689 Gangaur 111 777 Sankranti 912, 919 Bihar 522 Gita Jayanti 200 Mamallapuram Dance Puja 470 Brahmotsavam 912 Goa 812 Festival 1003, 1025 Sawai Gandharva Bumchu 542 689 Manimahesh Yatra 281 Sangeet Mahotsav 777 Camel Festival 192 Guktor Festival 348 Marwar Festival 111 Shigmotsav (Shigmo) of Carnival (Goa) 812 Guru Tse-Chu 243 Matho Nagrang Festival 812 Carnival (Panaji) 815 Harballabh Sangeet 243 Shivaratri 334, 415 Chapchar Kut 589 Sammelan 200 McLeod Ganj 326-7 Shivaratri Mela 628 Chennai Festival of 200 Mewar Festival 111, 155 542 Music & Dance 1003, 281 Minjar Festival 281 Silk Route Festival 223 1009-10 Holi 24, 27 Modhera Dance Festival Sonepur Mela 522 Chhath Festival 522, 536 Holla Mohalla 200, 209 689 St.Art 57 Chhattisgarh 628 Festival 568, 585 Muharram 912, 919 Surajkund Crafts Mela Chithirai Festival 1003, Mumbai 737 200 1059 Huthri 861 Mumbai Film Festival 737 355 Classical Dance Festival 57 Mumbai Sanskruti 737 1003 861 International Film Naag Panchami 777 Tansen Music Festival Cochin Festival 979 Festival of India 815 Devi Fair 415 628 Dangs Darbar 704 International Himalayan Festival 281, 326 Nariyal Poornima 737 111 Delhi 57 International Yoga Natyanjali Dance Festival 912 Delhi International Arts Festival 415, 418, 1033, 1003, 1044 Teppam (Float) Festival Festival 57 1038 Navratri 628, 661, 689, 1033, 1058-9 Desert Festival 111 Jagaddhatri Puja 490 694 940, Dharamsala Film Festival Janmastami 380, 410, 990 326 725 940, 958 Thyagaraja Aradhana Dharamsala 522 Northeast States 568 1003, 1049 International Film Jodhpur Flamenco & Odisha 600 Thypooya Maholsavam Festival 326 990 Gypsy Festival 175 940 Diwali 57 Film Festival 326-7 Kailash Fair 355 Pang Lhabsol 542 Dover Lane Music Udupi Paryaya 861 Conference 470 Festival 737 Pataliputra Mahotsava Uthralikavu Pooram 990 Drupchen 550 Kalidas Festival 777 522 861 Festival 343 380 Karthikai Deepam Phulech Festival 281 Uttarakhand 415 Festival 1003, 1033 Pinjore Heritage Festival Uttarayan 689, 692-3 Map Pages 000 Kartik Purnima 689 200 Vairamudi Festival 861 Photo Pages 000 Kashavrai Patan 146 1003, 27 Vautha Fair 700 1229 Vijaya Utsav 861, 899 161-2 Nasik 776 Hansukot 257 Virupaksha Car Festival Lohagarh 126 Pushkar 135 Hanu Gongma 255 899 Madikeri Fort 884 661 Hapoli 579 Wangala 568, 596 173 Varanasi 391-6, 15 Hardass 255 West 490 Naggar Castle 306 Ghum 505 Hari 579 Music Festival Nahargarh 113 giardiasis 1207 422-6, 423

568, 579 INDEX Fort 808 Gingee (Senji) 1034 Har-ki-Pairi Ghat 422 films 1104, 1121, 1123, 1126, Purana 74 Gir National Park & Wildlife Haryana 50, 198-9, 208-9, 1157, 1158 210, 212 Sanctuary 714-16 199 food 1137-47 795-6 Girnar Hill 717 Hatkoti 292  F-H books 1137, 1139, 1141, Giu 349  & 76-7 1142 Museum 391-3 Goa 15, 53, 810-53, , children 49 811 15 Ranthambhore Fort 141 accommodation 813 costs 1182 Fatehpur 171 60-1, 62-3 dabba-wallahs 761 821-2, 821 Jaisalmer 184-5 801-2 desserts 1140 Goecha La 561-2, 562, Jhunjhunu 169-70 797 dhal 1138 562 Mandawa 171 Sultan’s Battery 889 Gokarna 892-6 dosas 1140 Nawalgarh 168 Taragarh 142-3 915-17 etiquette 1143 Shekhawati 170 Thirumayam Fort 1055 internet resources 1143 Golden Temple 17, 213-14, Udaipur 153-4 Tughlaqabad 103 17, 1162-3 kebabs 381 Havelock Island 1093-6, Uparkot Fort 717 golf language 1145, 1211-12, 1094 1214 1030-1 Delhi 79 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah 69-70 paan 1138 Warangal 928 Kolkata 469 headhunting 586 safety 1174 Pahalgam 275 health 1204-9 street food 759, 864, Golghar 523 G books 1205-6 1015, 1141, 1142 galleries, see museums & Golgumbaz 906-7 825 galleries 1133 checklist 1204-5 forts , Indira 71-2, 1123 Gondal 720 environmental hazards 1208-9 Agra Fort 353-5 Gandhi, Mahatma 1118, Gondhla 341 insurance 1204 Akbar’s Fort & Patalpuri 1119-20 Gopalpur-On-Sea 618-23 Temple 387-8 Gandhi Museum (Patna) Gorakhpur 405-6 services 1206 Amber Fort 124-5 523 Govind Wildlife Sanctuary vaccinations 1204, 1205 Anandpur Sahib Fort 209 Gandhi Museum & National Park 440 websites 1205, 1206 Bala Qila 129 (Bhavnagar) 705 Govindghat 441 Pillar 657 860 Museum Gramphu 341, 344 Hem Kund 439-41 (Delhi) 71 Fort 690 Great Himalayan National 244-5 Kaba Gandhi No Delo 721 909 Park 298 248 National Gandhi Guda Bishnoi 181 henna 1157 Chandragiri Fort 937 Museum 67 Gujarat 53, 686-733, 687 hepatitis 1205, 1207 Chittorgarh 147-9 Raj Ghat 67 Gulling 347 Hessaraghatta 870 Citadel 907-8 Gandhinagar 699 Gulmarg 274-5 Hija 579 Dansborg 1043 Ganesh Chaturthi 24 Daulatabad 784-5 Guntupalli 933 hijras 1128 543-9, 544 Diu Fort 710 Guru Shikhar 167 hiking, see trekking Ganpatipule 796 Fort Aguada 825 Gushaini 298 Hikkim 346 Garamur 575 Fort St George 1007 566-71, 567 hill stations 14, 14 Garkone 255 1034 628-33, 630 Coonoor 1073-5 596 Golconda Fort 915-17 629-30 Kotagiri 1075 738 Govindgarh 211-12 Gyalbok 262 Hills 208 496 Gwalior Fort 629-30 Mt Abu 163-7, 164 gay travellers 764, 1182 Fort 267 Ooty Gaya 528-9 H Jaigarh 125 (Udhagamandalam) gem scams 121, 1174-5 Hadimba Temple 308 1076-82 16, 183, geography 1170-2 haggling 1150 Pachmarhi 657-61 190, 16 Gete 346 Hajo 571 Himachal Pradesh 51, Janjira 794-5 Geyzing 556 Halebid 887-8 280-349, 282-3 Junagarh 193 ghats Hampi 11, 845, 896-902, Himalaya 12, 1170, 12 Kamru Fort 293 Haridwar 422 898, 901, 10-11, 21 252 Kankwari Fort 131 410 handicrafts 449, 728-9, Hindola Mahal 671 Kota 146 996 Mumbai 748 Hinduism 1125-6, 1130-4 1230 Hindu temples 1031, see Hadimba Temple 308 Narayan Temple Sri Manakula Vinayagar also Buddhist temples, Haigriv Madhav (Rajgir) 534 Temple 1035 Jain temples, temples Temple 571 Temple Sun Temple (Konark) 615 1000-Pillared Temple Temple Complex (Chamba Sun Temple (Modhera) 928 (Anegundi) 902-3 Valley) 337 700 Hanuman Temple Lakshminath Temple Temple 1046 194

INDEX INDEX (Khajuraho) 641 691 Akshardham Temple Hanumangarhi 384 Lalguan Mahadev Temple Swarg Niwas & Shri 78-9 Harsiddhi Mandir 661 640-1 Trayanbakshwar Arunachaleshwar Temple Hatkeshwari Mata 414-15 H 1032 184-5  Temple 292 Takhteshwar Temple 705  436 Hazarama Temple 897 Lingaraj Mandir 601 428 Bala Hanuman Temple Mahadeva 639 ka Mandir 631 723 887-8 Mahakaleshwar Mandir Temple of Somnath 714 Tirth 713 Iskcon Temple 661 Thirunelly Temple 993 292 749-50, 861 Mahalaxmi Temple Trimbakeshwar Temple Bhootnath Mandir 297 Mandir 748-9, 808 780 Bijamandala Temple 644 (Agartala) 591 Mansa Devi & Sundari Mandir Bijli Mahadev Temple Jagannath Mandir (Puri) Devi Temples 422 592 305 610-11 Mata Temple 215 Undavalli Cave Temples 467, 915 Jagannath Temple 536 Matangesvara 640 929 Bisheshwar Mahadev Jagdish Temple 153 Amman Vadakkunathan Temple 299 Jakhu Temple 286 Temple 1057, 1160-1 Kshetram Temple Bishnupur 493 Janardhana Temple 951 Mukteswar Mandir 601 989-90 Brahma Temple 641 Jata Shankar 659 Mumba Devi Temple 745 Vaital Mandir 601 Brahmeswar Mandir 601 Javari Temple 641 Nageshwara Temple Temple 641 1045 Brajeshwari Devi Temple Jhandewalan Hanuman Varadaraja Perumal 333 Temple 97 Temple 449 Temple 1029 Brihadishwara Temple Kadri Manjunatha Temple 1043-4 Vashisht Mandir 317 1047 Temple 890 Pagal Baba Temple 411 Venkateshwara Temple Bull Temple 860 Kailasa Temple 786 Parsurameswar Mandir 936 Cave Temples 905 Kailasanatha Temple 601 Vijayalaya Cholisvaram Channakeshava Temple 1028 Parthasarathy Temple 1055 887 Kala Temple 776 1007 Virupaksha Temple 896-7 Chaturbhuj Temple 636 Bari Mandir 287 Temple 639 Vishvanath Temple 639-42 Chaurasi Temples 340 Temple 465 Pataleshvara Cave Temple 802 Vishwanath Temple 391 Chausath 640 Kamakhya Mandir 566 Pratapeswar 640 Vittala Temple 897 Mandir 78 Kamakshi Amman Chitragupta 639 Temple 1029 Raghunath Mandir 277 434 465 Kanak Bhavan 384 Raghunath Temple 305 history 1107-12 Dashrath Bhavan 384 Kandariya-Mahadev 639 Raja Rani Mandir 601 books 1108, 1111, 1115, 1117, 1120, 1121 Devi Jagadamba 639 Ram Janam 385 British rule 1116-19 644 1008 Ram Raja Temple 635-6 Buddhism 1109 725 Kesava Deo Temple 409 Ramanathaswamy Keshava Temple 881 Temple 1061-2 early civilisations Ekambareshwara Temple 1107-9 1028-9 Khajuraho temples Ramappa Temple 929 French era 1116 Elephanta Island 751-2 638-44, 642-3 Rani Temple 169 1109-11 Five 1023 Balaram Temple Rock Fort Temple 1050-1 Hindu reign 1111 Gangaikondacholapuram Complex 411 Sarangapani Temple Temple 1046 Krishna Temple 897 1045 Independence 1120-2 Gangeswar Temple 710 Kumari Amman Temple Sasbahu Temples 631 Indian Uprising 1119 Temple 434-5 1063 Temples 135 internet resources 1107 Girnar Hill 717 Kumbeshwara Temple Shore Temple 1023 1109 1045 Gopal Mandir 661 Shri Padmanabhaswamy conflict 1122 Lakshimi Narasmiha Temple 941 Govind Dev Temple 411 era 1115-16 897 Simhachalam Temple Gumpha Panchavati 777 Mauryan empire 1109 Temple 639 933 Muslim reign 1111-12 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Sree Temple 966 Partition 1120-2 (Delhi) 67-8, Sri Durgiana Temple 215 Portuguese era 1116 Map Pages 000 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Sri Jambukeshwara era 1115-16 Photo Pages 000 (Orchha) 636 Temple 1052 hitching 1198 1231 HIV 1207 Badaga 1080 Jaisalmer 183-4 Betla (Palamau) National hockey 1129 Chhattisgarh 684 Nandyavarta Mahal 536 Park 539 Holi 24 Jarawa people 1099 Nasiyan (Red) Temple Corbett Tiger Reserve holidays 1188 Kota 1080 133-4 443 Hong 579 Kurumbu 1080 Panchasara Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 498-9 Honupatta 256 Naga 586 Parshvanath 701

Parasnath Temple 537 Kanha National Park INDEX 492-3 Nicobarese people 1099 676-8 596 Odisha 604 Parsvanath Temple 644 Ranakpur 162-3 Leh 231 horse-drawn carriages Onge people 1099 Manali 309 Shanti 644  H-K 1199-200 Sentinelese people 1099 Monastery Loop 559-63 horse riding Shompen people 1099 Shantinath Mandir 723  Shatrunjaya 707-8 Nagarhole National Darjeeling 505 Toda 1080 Park 883 Sheetalnathji Mandir Kodaikanal 1067 Indore 663-7, 665 464 Nainital 445 influenza 1207 680-2 Sravanabelagola 888 Pushkar 135 insurance Periyar Wildlife Jainism 1136 Udaipur 154 health 1204 Sanctuary 966-7 Jaintia Hills 596 Hospet (Hosapete) 903-4 motorcycle 1198 287 Jaipur 105-24, 108-9 hot springs travel 1182 Loop 252-3 accommodation 114-17 Khir Ganga 302 internet access 1182-3 Wayanad Wildlife activities 113-14 Manikaran 303 internet resources 19 Sanctuary 993 courses 114 Yamunotri 434 disabilities, travellers Jelep La 551 houseboats 268-9, 892, with 1190-1 drinking 119 jet-skiing 964-5, 998 gay & lesbian travellers entertainment 119-20 Baga 827 Hubli (Hubballi) 904 1182 food 117-19 Calangute 827 ’s Tomb 69 government 1188 internet access 121 Colva 846 Hunder (Hundur) 249-50 health 1205, 1206 medical services 122 jewellery 1149 Hyderabad 910, 912-28, Interview Island 1100 shopping 120-4 Jhansi 384 914, 916, 918, 920, 1134 sights 109-13 Jharkhand 52, 520, 536-9, 923 Islamnagar 653 tourist information 122 521 accommodation 919-21 Iswari Minar Swarga tours 114 Jhunjhunu 169-71 climate 910 Sal 114 travel to/from 122-4 343 drinking & 577-8 travel within 124 Jodhpur 172-80, 174-5 entertainment 924 Itimad-ud-Daulah 355 Jaisalmer 16, 182-91, jodhpurs 179 festivals & events 919 itineraries 29-33 184-5, 16 Jog Falls 892 food 910, 921-4 Darjeeling 505 Jaisalmer Fort 16, 183, Jorhat 574-5 medical services 925 Kolkata 459 190, 16 437-8 shopping 924-5 Jaldhapara Wildlife Mumbai 736 Junagadh 716-20, 718 sights 913-18 Sanctuary 498-9 tourist information Jalgaon 791 925-6 J Jallianwala Bagh 214-15 K tours 918-19 Jabalpur 674-6, 675 Jallianwala Bagh Kabi Lunchok 552 travel seasons 910 Jagdalpur 683-5 massacre 216 Kabu 581 travel to/from 926 451 Jama Masjid 66-7, 16, 1164 Kachchh (Kutch) 726-33, 2 travel within 926-8 Jain temples, see also Jammu (city) 276-9, 276 Kakkabe 886-7 Buddhist temples, Jammu & Kashmir (state) kalarippayat 985 Hindu temples 51, 222-79, 224-5 Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife I Adinath 644 Jamnagar 722-5, 723 Sanctuary 336 Ibrahim Rouza 907 Adinath Mandir 723 Janki Chatti 434 Kalimpong 514-19, 514 Ichar 262 Babu Amichand Panalal Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 68 295 Igatpuri 780 Adishwarji Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 111 Kamadgiri 390 immigration 1190-1, 1192 749 Japanese B encephalitis Kamalabari 575 Imphal 588-90 Bhandasar Temple 193 1205, 1207 Kamru 293 Indian Museum 458 Chandraprabhu 183-4 Jarawa people 1099 Indian wolves 1166 Delwara Temples 165 1028-30, 1029 Jari 299-301 indigenous peoples Jain Kangra 333 jeep safaris 1201-2 Adivasi 684 Temple 61 Kanha National Park 676-8 644 Bandhavgarh National Kanji 257 Andamanese people Park 678-80 1099 Girnar Hill 717 Kannur 996-8 Bandipur National Park Hutheesingh Temple 691 (Cape Apatani 580 882 Arunachal Pradesh 577 Jain Temple 672-3 Comorin) 1063-6, 1064 1232 Kapurthala 211 entertainment 984-5 Kumily 966-70, 967 leatherwork 1149-50 Kargil 258-9 festivals & events 979 536 legal matters 1183-4 Karla 800-1 food 983-4 Kungri 347 Leh 226-41, 228-9, 232, 550 medical services 986 Kunzum La 344 242-3 Karnataka 53, 854-909, shopping 985-8 Kurseong 499-500 accommodation 231-6 855 sights 974-8 Kushinagar 406-8, 407 activities 229-31 INDEX INDEX Karsha 262 tourist information kushti 61 drinking 237-8 Kasar Devi 450 986-7 food 236-7 Kashmir 51, 262-75, 224-5 tours 978-9 medical services 238-9

K-L L  Kasol 302-3 travel to/from 987 shopping 238 Lachen 553-4 travel within 987-8 Katagla 302 sights 226-9  Lachung 552-3 985 Kodagu (Coorg) 883-7 tourist information 239 Ladakh 223-57, 224-5, Katra 279 Kodaikanal (Kodai) tours 231 242-3 1066-71, 1068 travel to/from 239-41 Kattoor 962-3 Lahaul 341-3 585-6 travel within 241 Kausani 451-3 Lake Gangabal 273 Kokchurong 562 Leh Palace 226 kayaking lakes Kolhapur 808-9 leopards 1166 Alappuzha 958 Chandratal 344 Leh 230-1 Kolkata (Calcutta) 51, Bandipur National Park 454-87, , , Chilika Lake 615-17 Palolem 849 455 456-7 881-2 460-1, 466, 468 Green Lake 553 Rishikesh 417-18 Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary accommodation 454, 553 450-1 Kaza 344-5 471-6 Jait Sagar 143-4 Chinnar Wildlife Kaziranga National Park activities 469-70 691-2 Sanctuary 973 572-4 climate 454 559 Corbett Tiger Reserve 435-6 drinking & nightlife Lake Gangabal 273 441-4 Keoladeo Ghana National 481-2 Kanha National Park Park 126-9 Lake Pichola 151 entertainment 482-3 589 676-8 Kerala 13, 54, 938-99, festivals & events 470 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife 939, 13 Naini Lake 445 food 454, 476-81 Sanctuary 162 Keylong 342-3 Nakki Lake 163 highlights 455 251-2 Nagarhole National Khajjiar 336 Park 883 itineraries 459 299 Khajuraho 17, 638-47, 640, Namdapha National medical services 484 17, 642-3 Ranmal Lake 723 Park 581 shopping 483-4 Khangral 257 Rewalsar Lake 297-9 Rajaji National Park 426 sights 457-69 Khanum 295 Samiti Lake 562 Satpura Tiger Reserve tourist information 484 Khardung 248 Saryolsar Lake 298 659 tours 470-1 248 Sukhna Lake 201 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger travel seasons 454 Kharsali 434 Tamdil Lake 590 Reserve 793-4 travel to/from 484-6 Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary Tikka Tal 208 lesbian travellers 764, 1182 725 travel within 486-7 Tsomgo (Changu) Lake Ley–Manali route 244-5 Khir Ganga 302 volunteering 470 551 Lhalung 348 Khoksar 341 Kollam (Quilon) 955-7, 956 Tso Moriri 252 Likche 252 Khonoma 586 Komic 346-7 Ward’s Lake 593 Lingaraj Mandir 601 Khotachiwadi 745 Konark 614-15 Lakshadweep 999 lions 1166 Khuldabad 785 Konkan Coast 794-8 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Gir National Park & Complex 337 Khuri 192-7 Koraput 619-22 Wildlife Sanctuary Lamayuru 256-7 714-16 Ki 345-6 Korlai 796 Lamuni 562 Neyyar Wildlife 346 Korzok 252 language 18, 1210-20 Sanctuary 946 Kigwema 586 Kota 146-7 language courses 1183 1104, 1127, 1158-9 Kinnaur 291-6 Kotagiri 1075 Chennai 1009 Little Andaman 1101-2 Kirgarang Nullah 347 Kottayam 963-4 Darjeeling 506 Loktak Lake 589 Kisama 586 Kovalam 946-50, 947 Delhi 79 Lonar Meteorite Crater 793 Kochi (Cochin) 974-88, Kozhikode (Calicut) 991-3, Lonavla 799-800 975, 976, 978, 980 992 McLeod Ganj 326 Long Island 1098-100 activities 978 Kullu 304-6, 300 Mumbai 753 Longwa 587 courses 978 Kumarakom 965-6 Mussoorie 431 Losar (town) 344 Kumarakom Bird Varanasi 397 Sanctuary 965 Langza 346 Lothal 700 Map Pages 000 Kumbakonam 1044-7, 1045 lassi 401, 1183 Lucknow 375-84, 378 Photo Pages 000 Kumbhalgarh 161-2 Lava 517 lungi 1125 1233 M Arpora 831 Mehrangarh 173 Old Ralang 556 Madhya Pradesh 52, 626-82, bargaining 1150 Mehrauli Archaeological Old Rumtek Gompa 550 627 Bengaluru 859-60 Park 103 Palchen Choeling Madikeri (Mercara) 884-5 Bijapur 908 Melaghar 592-3 Monastic Institute 556 1056-61, 1058 Delhi 93, 94, 95, 97 Melkote 881 Pemayangtse Gompa 558-9 Maenam Wildlife Hyderabad 925 meningitis 1205 Sanctuary 555 Imphal 588 Men-Tsee-Khang 321-3 Phensang Gompa 552 INDEX magazines 1181 Jaipur 120 Merak 251 Phodong Gompa 552 Mahabaleshwar 806 Jorhat 574 metro 1199 Phuktal Gompa 262

Mahabat Maqbara 717 Kohima 585 Mettupalayam 1073 Rizong Gompa 255 M  , the 1132 Kolkata 458-9, 463 Miao 581 Rumtek Gompa 549-50 Mahabodhi Temple 529 Koraput 620 Mithila (Madhubani) Samaguri Satra 574 paintings 526 Samten Choling Gompa Maharashtra 53, 774, 775 Leh 238 505 Marine Mandu 673 589-91 National Park 1092 mobile phones 18, 1189 Samten Yongcha Mapusa 823 Monastery 583 Maheshwar 668-9 Mobor 848 Mumbai 769 Sanchi 656 Mahmud of Ghazni 1111-12 Modhera 700 Mysuru 872 Sankaram 935 -Buddha Modi, Narendra 1123 Onkadelli 624 Shashur Gompa 343 257, 260 Panaji 819 Mokokchung 587 Majnu-ka-Tila 84 Mon 587-8 Gompa 227-9 Rayagada 622 Gompa 243 Majuli Island 575 monasteries 12, 1133, 12 Thiruvananthapuram Tabo Gompa 348-9 749 945 Bavikonda 935 Tangyud Gompa 346-7 Malana 301-2 Markha Valley 246-8 Bhutanese Monastery Tashiding Gompa 562-3 malaria 1206 marriage 1124-5 529 Tashijong Gompa 334 Malpe 892 Masrur 333-4 Busty Gompa 503 Tawang Gompa 583 Malvan 797-8 massage Bodhgaya 529, 42 Tergar Monastery 529 Malvan National Marine Bhubaneswar 603 Choskhor Temple Complex 254-5 Tharpa Choling Gompa Park 798 Bodhgaya 531 Dhankar Gompa 348-9 515 Mamallapuram Khajuraho 644 (Mahabalipuram) Drikung Gompa Thekchhok Gompa McLeod Ganj 324 1022-8, 1024 297 245-6 Mumbai 752 Mamallapuram Hill 1026 Druk Sangak Choling Gompa 244 Varanasi 397 Man 252 Gompa 505 Thotlakonda 935 Varkala 951 Mana 436 Dubdi Gompa 560 Tso-Pema Ogyen Heruka Matheran 798-9 Nyingmapa Gompa Manali 308-16, 310, 314 Durpin Gompa 515 Matho 243 297-8 Mandarmani 492 Enchey Gompa 545 Mathura 409-10, 409 Tupchiling Gompa 342 Mandawa 171-2 Guntupalli 933 Ugyen Sangnak Choling mausoleums, see tombs, Guru Ghantal Gompa Mandi 296-7 Gompa 347 shrines & mausoleums 342 Mandrem 839-40 Urgelling Gompa 583 Mayabunder 1100 Guru Gompa 505 Mandu 669-74, 670 Von Ngari Monastery 495 Gyuto Tantric Gompa Mandvi 732 308 McLeod Ganj 320-31, 322 333 Mangaluru (Mangalore) Yiga Choling Gompa 505 measures 1181 Hemis gompa 244-5 888-91, 889 Yungdrung Gompa 256 Mechuka 583 Kardang Gompa 343 Mangan 552 Yungdrung Kundrakling medical services 1206 Kathok Wodsallin Gompa Manikaran 303-4 555 meditation courses 40 560 588-9 money 18, 19, 1184-6 Bodhgaya 531 Labrang Gompa 552 maps 1184 moneychangers 1185 Chennai 1009 Lachen (Nyudrup Mapusa 823-5 monuments & Delhi 79-80 Choeling) Gompa 553 Marari 962-3 69 Dharamkot 332 Lachung (Sarchok) Margao (Madgaon) 841-5, Gompa 552 ’s Penance 1023-4 Eluru 931 842 Lingdum Gompa 550 Batasia Loop 504-5 Igatpuri 780 marijuana 303 Mane Choekhorling Bibi-qa-Maqbara 780-1 Kolkata 469-70 Marine Drive 743 Gompa 555 Buddha & Leh 229-30 Marine National Park 725-6 Matho Gompa 243 Hussain Sagar 918 Nagarjunakonda 932 markets & bazaars 14, Char Dham 554 Pune 803 1148-54, 14 426-7 Charminar 913 Rishikesh 415-17 Agra 365-9 Namdroling Monastery Coronation Durbar 593-7 Amritsar 218 886 Site 67 mehndi 1157 Anjuna 834 529 Gandhi Memorial 1063-4 1234 monuments & statues mountaineering museums & galleries Chandigarh Architecture continued Himalayan Mountaineering Academy of Fine Arts 459 Museum 201 Gateway of India 738 Institute 504 Ahuja Museum for Chatterjee & Lal 743 Golgumbaz 906-7 Leh 230-1 Arts 459 Chhatrapati Shivaji Gomateshvara Statue Manali 312 Allahabad Museum 388 Maharaj Vastu 888 Nainital 445 Alwar Museum 129 Sangrahalaya 742-3

INDEX INDEX Statue 530 Uttarkashi 437 Anand Bhavan 387 CIMA 467 City Palace Museum Ibrahim Rouza 907 Mt Abu 163-7, 164 Anokhi Museum of Hand 151-2 Jaswant Thada 174-5 Mt Arunachala 1032-3 Printing 125 Crafts Museum 74 M Kamaraj Memorial 1064 Mudh 347 Anthropological Museum  Jagdalpur) 683 Crystal Gallery 152-3)  Raj Ghat 67 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve DakshinaChitra Museum Rupmati’s Pavilion 672 1082-3 Anthropological Museum (Port Blair) 1088-9 1022 Samdruptse 554 1113-15 Archaeological Museum Darbar Hall Museum 718 Shanti Vana 67 266 (Bodhgaya) 531 Delhi Art Gallery 745 Tathagata Tsal 555 Mulbekh 257 Archaeological Museum Desert Cultural Centre & Mumbai (Bombay) 13, 53, (Fatehpur Sikri) 372 Museum 185 1063 734-73, , 735 13 Archaeological Museum Don Bosco Museum of Vivekananda Memorial accommodation 734, (Hampi) 897-8 Indigenous Cultures 1063 755-9 Archaeological Museum 593 Moorang 295 activities 752-3 (Khajuraho) 644 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Morjim 838-9 art district 743 Archaeological Museum Mumbai City Museum Morni Hills 208 climate 734 (Konark) 614 745 737-9, 755-7, Archaeological Museum Dr Ramnath A Podar Ahmed Shah’s 759-60, 764-5, 768, (Mathura) 409 Museum 167-8 693 738 Archaeological Museum Experimenter 467 Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid 648 courses 753 () 535 Folk Art Museum 728 Fatehpuri Masjid 61-6 drinking & nightlife Archaeological Museum Forest Research Institute Gaur 496 763-73 (Sanchi) 656 Museum 428 745-8 Elephanta Island 751-2 Archaeological Museum Galerie Mirchandani + Hazratbal Mosque 266 emergencies 770 () 404 Steinruecke 743 Archaeological Museum Gallery Maskara 743 Jama Masjid 66-7, 16, entertainment 766-8 (Thrissur) 990 1164 food 734, 759-63 Gandhi Memorial Archaeological Museums Museum 1057-8 Khanqah Shah-i- Fort Area & Churchgate (Vaishali) 526 Hamadan 266 739-45, 757-8, 760-2, Gandhi Museum (Patna) Ashutosh Museum of 523 Mahabat Maqbara 717 765, 768-9, 740-1 464 Gandhi Smriti Museum Mecca Masjid 914 Gorai Island 751 Assam State Museum (Bhavnagar) 705 Moorish Mosque 211 highlights 735 568 Gandhi Smriti Museum itineraries 736 Mosque of Dilawar Banking Museum 461-3 (Delhi) 71 Khan 671 Kalbadevi 745-9, 762, Baroda Museum & George Orwell Museum 765, 769, Pather Masjid 266 746-7 Picture Gallery 701 528 Mahalaxmi 745-9, 762, Rani Sipri’s Mosque 693 Barton Museum 705 Goa Chitra 846 765, 769, 746-7 Sayid’s Mosque Bhuri Singh Museum 337 Goa State Museum 693 Northern Suburbs 758-9 Birla Academy of Art & 814-15 Sidi Bashir Mosque 693 shopping 768-70 Culture 467 Government Museum Taj-ul-Masjid 648 sights 737-52 Birla Modern Art Gallery (Bengaluru) 857 459-60, 464 tourist information 770 915 Government Museum motorcycle travel 1200-1 tours 753-5 Bison Lodge 659 (Chennai) 1006-7 Moula Ali Dargah 917-18 travel seasons 734 Brahma Kumaris Peace Government Museum mountain biking travel to/from 771 Hall & Museum 163 (Udaipur) 153 Manali 309, 312 travel within 772-3 Buddha Museum 406 Government Museum & Shimla 287 Calico Museum of Art Gallery (Chandigarh) 201 mountain railways 749-50, 758-9, 762-3, Textiles 689-90 765-6, 770, 750 Central Asian Museum Gu-Chu-Sum Movement Kangra Valley toy train Gallery 323 333 mundu 1125 227 Hall of Fame 229 Mahaparinirvan Express Munnar 970-3, 971 Central Museum (Indore) Harrington Street Arts 535 Munsyari 451 664 Centre 459 590 Central Museum (Jaipur) 113 HEH The Nizam’s Murshidabad 495 Map Pages 000 Central Tibetan Museum 913-14 Murud 794-5 Photo Pages 000 Secretariat 321 Hill Palace Museum Murudeshwar 895 988-9 1235 Himachal State Museum Sacred Heart Natural Vivekananda House 286 977 Science Museum 1067 1007-8 Himalayan Men-Tsee-Khang 321-3 Salar Jung Museum 913 Watson Museum 721 Mountaineering Mizoram State Museum Samudrika Marine music 1156 Institute 504 590 Museum 1089-90 musical instruments 1151 Houses of Goa Museum Morarka Haveli Museum Sea Shell Museum 710 Mussoorie 430-4, 815 432-3

168 INDEX Shankar’s International Mysore, see Mysuru Indian Museum 458 Mumbai Boss 743 Dolls Museum 67 Mysore Palace 871-2, Memorial Museum of Christian Shivaji Museum 781 874-5 Museum 71-2 Art 822 Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Mysuru (Mysore) 870-80,  M-N Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Museum of History & Museum 808-9 Manav Sangrahalaya 872-3  Heritage 941 Shri Chitra Art Gallery 941 873 Museum of Kangra Shri Vishal Jain Museum Indo-Portuguese Art 318 708 N Museum 975 Museum of Tribal Arts & SRC Museum of Indology Nabadwip 495 International Roerich Artefacts 603 113 586 Memorial Trust 307 Nagarjunakonda Sri Krishna Museum 209 584-8 Jai Vilas Palace & Museum 931 Scindia Museum 630-1 Sri Parvata Arama 932 Namgyal Institute of Sri Pratap Singh 883 Jain Museum 537 Tibetology 543-4 Museum 268 Nagarjunakonda 931-2 Janapada Loka Folk Arts Napier Museum 940-1 Museum 870 State Archaeological Naggar 306-8 National Bal Bhavan 67 Museum 631 State Nagpur 791-2 National Gallery of State Museum (Bhopal) Museum 577 Nainital 444-8, 446-7 Modern Art 648 744 Nako 296 (Bengaluru) 857 State Museum Jhaveri Contemporary National Gallery of (Bhubaneswar) 602 Nalanda 535-6 743 Modern Art (Delhi) 71 State Museum Naldehra 291 Kachchh Museum 728 National Gallery of (Hyderabad) 915 Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary Karnataka Chitrakala Modern Art (Mumbai) State Museum (Kohima) 699-700 Parishath 857 744-5 585 554 Kashi Art Gallery 977 National Gallery of Submarine Museum 932 Portraits 201 Kerala Folklore Museum Sulabh International 581 978 of Toilets 79 Nameri National Park 572 Khalsa Heritage Complex Museum 67 Sullivan Memorial 1075 Namgyal Institute of 209 National Museum 71 Survey of India Museum Tibetology 543-4 Khuda Bakhsh Oriental National Rail Museum 75 428 Hills 870 523 Naulakha Museum 720 Naranag 273 Kiran Nadar Museum of NC Mehta Gallery 691 Wandering Monk Nasik 776-9, 778 Art 78 Nehru Memorial Exhibition 1063 Nathu La 551 Museum 73-4 Tagore’s House 463 Museum 957-8 National Gallery of Modern Patna Museum 522-3 Taj Museum 353 Panorama & Art (Bengaluru) 857 Museum Tea Museum 970 Science Centre 208 714 National Gallery of Modern Lahaul & Spiti Tribal Thar Heritage Museum Art (Delhi) 71 Project 88 743 185 Museum 342 National Gallery of Modern Puducherry Museum Lal Bagh Palace 664 Tibet House 75 Art (Mumbai) 744-5 1035-6 Tibet Museum 321 Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Pudukkottai Museum National Gallery of Museum 690-1 Tribal Cultural Museum Portraits 201 1055 801 Le Corbusier Centre 201 National Museum 71 Puthe Maliga Palace Tribal Museum (Bhopal) Lepcha Heritage national parks, reserves Museum 941 648 Museum 516 Rail Museum 873 & wildlife sanctuaries Lokayatan Folk Museum Tripura Government 1168, 1169 Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum 591 690 Museum 801 Anamalai Tiger Reserve Maharaja Ranjit Singh Ujjayanta Palace 591 1074 Ramkatha Museum 385 Vechaar Utensil Museum Panorama 215 Bandhavgarh National Ramnagar Fort & 692 Maharaja Sansar Chand Park 678-80, 13 Museum 391-3 Veerayatan 534 Museum 333 Bandipur National Park Rani Durgavati Museum Vihara 656 745 674 881-2 Manipur State Museum Vintage & Classic Car Barda Wildlife Sanctuary 154, 720 588 Museum 71 725 463-4 Visvesvaraya Industrial Betla (Palamau) National RKK Memorial Museum & Technical Museum Maritime Museum 975 Park 538-9 958 857-8 1236 national parks, reserves Namdapha National New Jalpaiguri 495-8 915 & wildlife sanctuaries Park 581 newspapers 1181 Bundi Palace 142 continued Nameri National Park 572 Ney 254 Chowmahalla Palace 913 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Neyyar Wildlife Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary City Palace (Alwar) 129 Sanctuary 623-5 Sanctuary 946 946 City Palace (Jaipur) Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary Nokrek Biosphere Nezer Latho 227 109-11 450-1 INDEX INDEX Reserve 596 Nicobarese people 1099 City Palace (Kota) 146 Blackbuck National Orchha Wildlife Nilgiri Hills 1080, 1077 City Palace (Udaipur) Park 707 Sanctuary 636 Nimmu 253-4 151, 2 Chinnar Wildlife Panna National Park 647 N-P Nokrek Biosphere Reserve Darbargadh 726-7  Sanctuary 973 Parambikulam Wildlife 596 Daria Daulat Bagh 880

Corbett Tiger Reserve Sanctuary 974  Norbulingka Institute 332 Fatehpur Sikri 369-72, 441-4 Pench Tiger Reserve 680-2 Northeast States 52, 370-1 Cotigao Wildlife Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 849-50 564-97, 565 Fort Palace (Jaisalmer) Sanctuary 966-70, 967 Daroji Sloth Bear Valley 248-51 183 Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary 903 Hawa Mahal 111-13 Sanctuary 571 255 Eravikulam National Hazarduari 495 Rajaji National Park 426 Park 973 Itachuna 494 Ranthambhore National Gir National Park & O Jaganmohan Palace 872 Park 140-2 observatories Wildlife Sanctuary Jagatjit Palace 211 714-16 Sanjay Gandhi National Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 68 Park 753 671 Govind Wildlife Sanctuary Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) Jai Vilas Palace 630-1 & National Park 440 Satkosia Gorge 111 Sanctuary 608 Jal Mahal 113 Great Himalayan Observatory Hill 501-2 Satpura National Park Jehangir Mahal 635 National Park 298 Odisha 52, 598-625, 599 657-9 Karenghar 576 Hemis National Park 248 olive ridley marine turtles Satpura Tiger Reserve Jaldhapara Wildlife 618, 1101 Lal Bagh Palace 664 659 Sanctuary 498-9 1132 Laxmi Vilas Palace 701 Similipal National Park Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Leh Palace 226 622 Omkareshwar 667-8 Sanctuary 336 Mysore Palace 871-2, Onge people 1099 Kanha National Park 874-5 512-14 Onkadelli 624 676-8 Nalakunad Palace 886 Singba Ooty (Udhagamandalam) Kaziranga National Park Sanctuary 553 1076-82, 1078-9 Neermahal 592-3 572-4 Sunderbans Tiger opening hours 1186 Nil Kanth Palace 672 Keoladeo Ghana National Reserve 491-2 Padam Palace 292 Park 126-9 Orchha 633-8, 634 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Padmanabhapuram Khijadiya Bird Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary Reserve 793-4 Palace 1066 Sanctuary 725 636 Thattekkad Bird Raj Mahal 635 Kumarakom Bird Orissa, see Odisha Sanctuary 973-4 Rang Mahal 337 Sanctuary 965 Osho 804 Valley of Flowers Royal Palace 1047-9 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Osian 181-2 National Park 439-41 Sanctuary 162 Sajjan Garh 154 Varsey Rhododendron Maenam Wildlife Roza 691 Sanctuary 558 Sanctuary 555 P Sharad Baug Palace Vedanthangal Bird paan 1138 Mahatma Gandhi Marine 728 Sanctuary 1028 National Park 1092 Pabbar Valley 292 Palace 241 Wayanad Wildlife Malvan National Marine Pachmarhi 657-61, 658 Taj Mahal 350, 352-3, Sanctuary 993-6 Park 798 260-1 354, 362, 363, 10, Wild Ass Sanctuary 733 Marine National Park Pahalgam 275 356-7 725-6 National Research Centre painting 526, 1151, 1156-8 Taragarh Palace 334 on Camels 197 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Pakistan Tipu Sultan’s Palace Navratri & Dussehra 24 1082-3 border crossings 181, 858-9 Murlen National Park Nawalgarh 167-9 219, 220 Tirumalai Nayak Palace 590 Neermahal 592-3 travel to/from 1195 1058 Nagarhole National Nehru, Jawaharlal 73-4, palaces Ujjayanta Palace 591 1120, 1122-3 Park 883 801 Umaid Bhawan Palace Neil Island 1096-8 Nalsarovar Bird Akhand Chandi Palace 175 Sanctuary 699-700 Nepal 337 Vijay Vilas Palace 732 border crossings 405, Amar Mahal 276-7 Palampet 929 408, 499, 510, 518, Bangalore Palace 857 Palampur 334 Map Pages 000 527, 549 Bawali 494 Palitana 707-8 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from 1194 Baz Bahadur’s Palace 672 palloo 1125 1237 Palolem 849-53, 850, 15 Sayaji Bagh 701 calendar of events 24-8 Rajaji National Park 426 Panaji (Panjim) 814-20, Sim’s Park 1073 India basics 18-19 Rajasthan 50, 104-97, 816 Theosophical Society India’s regions 50-4 106-7 Panamik 250-1 1008 internet resources 19 Rajgir 533-5 Pandua 496 Yadavindra Gardens itineraries 29-33 720-2, 721 Pangong Tso 251-2 207-8 travel seasons 18, 24 Rajneesh, Bhagwan Shree

Panna National Park 647 Parsi Bungali 710 plants 1168-9 804 INDEX paragliding Parsis 748 Pobdi 581 70-1 Arambol 840 Parur 989 Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary Ralang 556

Bir 334-5 Parvati Valley 299-304, 571 , the 1132-3  P-R Kalimpong 516 300 polio 1205 Rambha 617-23  Lonavla 799 Pasighat 581 politics 1104-6 1061-3 Manali 312 passports 1190-1, 1192 polo 1129 Ramnagar 279 Parambikulam Wildlife patachitra 614 Ponda 822-3 Rampur 292 Sanctuary 974 Patan 700-1 Ponnumthuruthu Island 951 Ramtek 792 parasailing Pathankot 221 Poovar 950 Ranakpur 162-3 Baga 827 Patiala 210-11 population 1105 Ranchi 536-8 Calangute 827 Patna 522-6, 524 Port Blair 1088-92, 1089 576 Colva 846 Patna Museum 522-3 postal services 1187-8 Rangat 1098 Parasnath Hill 537 Patnitop 279 Prashar Lake 299 260 Pardesi Synagogue 977-8 Patola weaving 721 Pratapgad Fort 808 rangolis 1126 parks & gardens 906 1166 Rani Abbakka 892 Agnigarh Hill 571 Pattan Valley 343 public holidays 1188 Rani-ki-Vav 701 Botanical Gardens Pavagadh 704 Puducherry (Pondicherry) Ranthambhore National (Kolkata) 469 Payyanur 998 1034-42, 1036 Park 140-2 Botanical Gardens pehlwani 61 Pune 801-7, 802 Rashtrapati Bhavan 71 (Ooty) 1076 Pelling 556-8, 557 Punjab 50, 198-9, 209- (Rabongla) 555 Bougainvillea Garden Pemako 582 21, 199 Raxaul 527-8 201 Pemayangtse Gompa 558-9 74 Rayagada 622-3 Bryant Park 1067 Pench Tiger Reserve 680-2 Puri 610-14, 612 red ants 682 Buddha Smriti Park 523 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary Purney 262 Red Fort 60-1, 62-3 Chitralekha Udyan 571 966-70, 967 Pushkar 135-40, Rekong Peo 294-5 Cubbon Park 857 136 permits 1186 Pushkar Camel Fair 138 religion 1105, 1124-6, Horticultural Gardens alcohol 696 1130-6 468 Pusphagiri Ruins 623 Andaman Islands 1087 Buddhism 1135-6 Kailasagiri Hill 932 Corbett Tiger Reserve Christianity 1136 Kangla 588 442 Q etiquette 1135 Khusru Bagh 387 Qila Mubarak 210 Kaza 346 Hinduism 1130-4 Lalbagh Botanical Ladakh 231 Complex 102-3 Gardens 857 Islam 1134 Lakshadweep 999 Qutb Shahi Tombs 917 Lloyd Botanical Gardens Jainism 1136 504 mountaineering 230 Sikhism 1134-5 70 Northeast States 578 R Zoroastrianism 1136 358 Shimla 296 Rabdentse 559 Residency 375 Mughal Gardens 71, 266 Sikkim 542-3 rabies 1205, 1207 Rewalsar Lake 297-9 Nature Park 308 Phanjila 256 radio 1181 rhinoceros, one-horned Nehru Park 76 Phodong 552 rafting 498, 571, 572-3, 1165 Nek Chand Rock Garden photography 1187 Joshimath 438 rice 1137 200 etiquette 1175 Leh 230-1 rickshaws 1199 Norbugang Park 560 Photoksar 256 Manali 312-13 Rinchenpong 561 Osho Teerth Gardens Phuktal 262 Mumbai 752 Rishikesh 414-21, 416 803 Phyang 253 Orchha 636 Rizong 255 Panchakki 781 Pin Valley 347 Pahalgam 275 rock art 653 Rabindra Sarovar 467-8 Pipli 610 Periyar Wildlife rock climbing Rao Jodha Desert Rock 453 Sanctuary 966 Badami 905 Park 174 planetariums Rishikesh 417-18 Bengaluru 861 Ridge (Gangtok) 544-5 Birla Planetarium 459 Raghurajpur 614 Hampi 898-9 Rose Garden planning, see also Raigad Fort 795-6 Manali 313 (Chandigarh) 201 individual locations Raipur 682-3 Nainital 445 Rose Garden (Ooty) 1076 budgeting 19 Raj Ghat 67 Rohet 181 1238 Rohtang La 341 Kullu Valley 301 808 Spangmik 252 Ross Island 1090, 1101 marijuana 303 Shivpuri 632 spice farms 823, 849 Royal Gaitor 113 Northeast States 587 Shompen people 1099 spices 885, 1137 ruins Parvati Valley 301 shopping 1148-54, see also Spiti 344-9 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 133 Puri 610 markets & bazaars sport 1128-9 Aihole 906 scams 121, 1174-5 antiques 1184 Sravanabelagola 888 INDEX INDEX Bhangarh 131 solo travellers 1177 shawls 305 Sri Kalahasti 937 Champaner 704-5 Varanasi 396 shrines, see tombs, shrines Sri Math Chaukhandi 404 Varkala 951 & mausoleums 1008

R-T Damsang Dzong 517 women travellers 1176-7 Sidhbari 333 Sri Ranganathaswamy  Sikh temples Temple 1051-2 Daulatabad 784-5 492  Dhamekh Stupa & Sagnam 347 Chand Kaur Srinagar 264-73, 264 277 Monastery Ruins 404 590 Srirangapatnam 880-1 Golden Temple 213-14, Gaur 496 Sakti 246 Stakna 243 17, 1162-3 Gingee Fort 1034 Salar Jung Museum 913 statues, see monuments & Gurdwara Bangla Khwaja Mahmud Gawan statues Salawas 181 Sahib 76 909 Stok 241-3 salwar kameez 1125 Laxman Temple 683 Sam Sand Dunes 192 Gurdwara 298 Mahanavami-diiba 897 Chaukhandi Stupa 404 Samaguri Satra 574 Kesgarh Sahib 209 Monastery of St Dhamekh Stupa & Sanchi 652-6, 654, 1164 Sikhism 1134-5 Augustine 822 Monastery Ruins 404 Sangam 385-7 Sikkim 52, 540-63, Mubarak Mandi 276 541 Gomang Stupa 227 Sanganer 125-6 silent parties 852 Nalanda 535-6 Kesariya Stupa 531 Sangla 293 495-8 Pandua 496 Ramabhar Stupa 406 Sangla Valley 293-4 silk 402, 784 Pavagadh 704 Sanchi 652-6 Sani 262 Similipal National Park Pusphagiri Ruins 623 Shanti Stupa 227 Sanjay Gandhi National 622 Queen’s Bath 897 Vishwashanti Stupa 534 Park 753 Singba Rhododendron Rabdentse 559 Sankaram 935 Sanctuary 553 Sumar 250-1 Raghupur Fort 298 Sarahan 292-3 Singhik 552 Sumdo 252, 349 Ramabhar Stupa 406 saris 1125, 1152 807 Sun Temple (Konark) 615 Rang Ghar 576 130-2 Sinquerim 825-7 Sunauli 408-9 Residency 375 Sarnath 403-5, 403 Sivasagar 576 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve Royal Enclave 671 491-2 Sassoon Dock 739 skiing Shivneri 808 Surat 704 Satapada 616-17 Gulmarg 274-5 Sinhagad 807 surfing Satkosia Gorge Sanctuary Manali 309, 313 Talatalghar 576 608 Skurbuchan 255 Arambol 840 Tsemo Fort 226 Satpura National Park sloth bears 903 Asvem 839 Village Group 672 657-9 slums 744 Covelong Point 1022 Zenana Enclosure 897 Satpura Tiger Reserve 659 Smith Island 1101 Goa 812-13 246-8 satras 574 snakes 1167 Gokarna 893-4 Rumtek 549-51 705-26 snorkelling Kovalam 946 scams 1174-5 Craggy Island 1101 Little Andaman 1102 S Se La 583 Excelsior Island 1101 Mamallapuram 1024 Sabarimala 969 Sendra Island 589 Havelock Island 1093-4 Puducherry 1037 689 Sentinelese people 1099 Long Island 1100 Varkala 951 safety 1174-5, 1188 Sevagram 792-3 Mahatma Gandhi Marine Surley 262 Andaman Islands 1086 Shahpur Jat 79 National Park 1092 259-60 bhang lassi 1183 Shankaracharya Hill 265-6 Neil Island 1097 Swargdwar 611 Delhi 97 493-5 Smith Island 1101 synagogues drinking water 1208 Shargol 257 snow leopards 581, 1166 Keneseth Eliyahoo drugs 814 Shatrunjaya 707-8 solo travellers 1177 Synagogue 744 food 1174 shawls 305 Somnath 714 Pardesi Synagogue 977-8 gem scams 121 Shekhawati 167-72, 169 Somnathpur 881 Kashmir 263 243 Sonamarg 274 T 593-7, 594 spa treatments 40-2 Tabo 348-9 Shimla 281-91, 284-5 Delhi 79 Tabo Gompa 348-9 Map Pages 000 Shiva 1131 Mumbai 752 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Photo Pages 000 Shivaji 1115 493 Reserve 793-4 1239 Taj Mahal 11, 51, 350, Tibetan exiles 325 Dargah of Khwaja Himalaya 440-1 352-3, 354, 362, 363, Tibetan medicine 326 Muin-ud-din Chishti Joshimath 437-8 10, 356-7 Tibetan refugees 886 132 Kalimpong 517 501 Gumbaz 880 Keylong 342 (Mumbai) 737-8 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din 13, 1165, 1166, 13 Khangchendzonga Trek Takthog 245-6 Dargah 69-70 Anamalai Tiger Reserve 561-2, 562

Hoshang’s Tomb 672 INDEX Talatalghar 576 1074 Kibber 346 Humayun’s Tomb 69 Tambekar Wada 701-2 Bandhavgarh National Kodagu 884 Itimad-ud-Daulah 355 Tamil Nadu 54, 1000-83, Park 678-80, 13 Kodaikanal 1067 Mahabat Maqbara 717 Bandipur National Park Kuari Pass Trek 440  T 1001  Taragarh 334 Mausoleum of Ahmed 881-2 Ladakh 246-7 Tashiding 562-3 Shah 693 Betla (Palamau) National Lake Gangabal 273 Tashigang 296 Park 538-9 Naqshband Sahib 267 Leh 231 Tashijong 334 Corbett Tiger Reserve Paigah Tombs 917 Manali 309, 313 Tawang Valley 583-4 441-4 Qutb Shahi Tombs 917 Markha Valley 246-8 taxis 1199 Kanha National Park Raja’s Tombs 884 676-8 McLeod Ganj 324 women travellers 1177 Ram Rai Darbar 428 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve McLeod Ganj to tea (chai) 1144-5, Rani-na-Hazira 693 1144 1082-3 Bharmour 328 tea estates 507 Rozabal 267 Nagarhole National Milam Glacier Trek 441 Safdarjang’s Tomb 75 Banyan Grove 573 Park 883 Monastery Loop Sheikh Chaheli’s Tomb Happy Valley Tea Estate Namdapha National 559-63 209 504 Park 581 Mt Abu 167 Shivpuri chhatris 632 Highfield Tea Estate 1073 Panna National Park Mumbai 752 Tiger Cave 1022 Makaibari 500 647 Munnar 970 Tomb of Tansen 631 Mancotta Heritage Parambikulam Wildlife Naggar 307 Vaishno Devi Shrine 279 Chang Bungalow 573 Sanctuary 974 Nainital 445 Vazir’s Mausoleum 717 Thengal Manor 573 Pench Tiger Reserve Nako 296 680-2 Top Station 973 250-1 Naranag 273 Rajaji National Park tourist information 1190 Telangana 53, 910, 928-9, Nawalgarh 168 426 tours 1202 911 Nilgiri Hills 1076-7 Ranthambhore National touts 187, 396, 1175 telephone services 18, Ooty 1076-7 1188-9 Park 140-2 train travel 17, 34-5, Pahalgam 275 Temi 556 Sariska Tiger Reserve 1196, 1202-3, 17, see Palolem 849-50 temples 1160-4, see 130-2 also mountain railways also Buddhist temples, Satpura Tiger Reserve booking 34-5 Parasnath Hill 537 659 Hindu temples, Jain classes 34 Parvati Valley 299 Similipal National Park temples toy trains 333, 511 Periyar Wildlife 622 Sanctuary 966-7 tempos 1199 trams 1199-200 Sunderbans Tiger Pindari Glacier Trek 441 tetanus 1205 Tranquebar 1043 Reserve 491-2 Pin-Parvati 304 textiles 1152-3 travel to/from India 1192-5 Tezpur 571-2 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Rinchenpong 561 Reserve 793-4 travel within India 1195-202 thali 1138, 1139 Rishikesh 417-18 Tikjuk 556 trekking 36-7 Than 731 Saddle Peak 1101 time 1190 Almora 449 Thanggu 553 Sham 254 tipping 1185 Amarnath 278 1151 Shillong 594-5 936-7 Bhagsu 331 Thangsing 562 Shimla 287 936-7 Bharmour 340 Thanjavur (Tanjore) Singalila Ridge Trek Tiruvannamalai 1032-4 Chamba 337-8 1047-50, 1048 512-14 toilets 1190 Chandrisilla Peak 439 Tharangambadi 1043 Singba Rhododendron tombs, shrines & Chitkul 294 Sanctuary 553 Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary mausoleums Dharamkot 331 973-4 Srinagar 269 Akbar’s Mausoleum 355 Gangtok 546 theft 1175 Tashiding 560 Ashrafi Mahal 672 Gaumukh Glacier Trek theyyam 997 travel seasons 37 Badshah Tomb 266 434-5 Thiksey 244 Mandir 439 Bahmani Tombs 909 Great Himalayan Thiruvananthapuram Varsey Rhododendron Bara Imambara 375-8 National Park 298 Sanctuary 558 (Trivandrum) 940-6, Green Lake 553 942 Bir Singh Deo 635 Wayanad Wildlife Hamta Pass 317 Sanctuary 994 Thrissur (Trichur) 989-91, Chini-ka-Rauza 355 Har-ki-Dun Valley Trek 440 Yuksom 560 989 Chota Imambara 379 Havelock Island 1094 Thukye 253 Choukhandi 909 246-7, 259 1240 Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) Jayalakshmi Vilas Vishwanath Temple 391 websites, see internet 1050-4, 1051, 1053 Mansion Museum volunteering 43-6 resources Triloknath 343 Complex 873 Delhi 79 weights 1181 780 Kanchipuram 1029 West Bengal 52, 488-519, 743 Tripunithura 988-9 Kolkata 470 489 Uparkot Fort 717 Tripura 591-3 Kotagiri 1075 West Bengal Hills 495-519

INDEX INDEX Uttar Pradesh 51, 374-411, Tsati 248 Mapusa 823 966-74, 376-7 1066-83 Tso Kiagar 252 McLeod Ganj 325-6 Uttarakhand 51, 412-53, whiskey 871 Tso Moriri Loop 252-3 Mumbai 752-3 413

T-Y Wild Ass Sanctuary 733  Tsomang 296 Varanasi 397 Uttarey 562 wildlife 1165-7, see also ,Tsomgo (Changu) Lake 551 410-11  Uttarkashi 437 411 national parks, resrves Tsopta 553 & wildlife sanctuaries Tsuglagkhang 320-1 books 1165 tuberculosis 1205, 1207 V W Wakha Mulbekh Valley 257 endangered species 1167 Tughlaq, Mohammed vacations 1188 walking, see trekking internet resources 1165 1112-13 (Baroda) 701-4, wine 779, 871 Tumlong 552 702 walking tours Bengaluru 861 women in India 1106, Tuophema 587 Vagator 835-8, 836 1126-8 Tura 596 Vaishali 526-7 Chennai 1009 women travellers 1176-7 turtles 618, 1101 Backwaters Delhi 80 women’s health 1176, 1209 250 998 Hyderabad 919 woodcarving 1153-4 Tuting 582 Valley of Flowers National Jaipur 112, 112 World Heritage Sites TV 1181 Park 439-41 Kolkata 470 Valparai 1074 Lucknow 379 Ajanta 12, 788-91, typhoid 1205, 1207 , Vanakbara 710 Madurai 1058 789 12 Brihadishwara Temple Varanasi 15, 390-403, , Mumbai 754, 755, 392 754 1047 U 394, 4, 15 Mysuru 876 Udaigiri Caves 657 Champaner 704-5 accommodation Puducherry 1037 Udaipur 150-61, 343, 592, 397-400 Chhatrapati Shivaji Udaipur 155 Terminus 739, 742 152, 2 activities 396-7 Varanasi 397 Ellora 785-8, 786 acommodation 155-7 courses 397 Wall Project 749 Hampi 11, 896-902, 898, activities 154-5 drinking & nightlife 401 Wandoor 1092 10-11 courses 155 food 400-1 256 Keoladeo Ghana National drinking 159 shopping 402 Warangal 928-9 Park 126-9 emergencies 159 sights 391-6 water, drinking 1208 Khajuraho temples entertainment 159 tours 397 waterfalls 638-44, 642-3 festivals & events 155 travel to/from 402-3 Abbi Falls 884 Mahabodhi Temple 529 internet access 159 travel within 403 Catherine Falls 1075 Pattadakal 906 medical services 159 volunteering 397 Chitrakote Falls 683 Pavagadh 704 shopping 159 Varca 848 Dudhsagar Falls 847 Sanchi 652-6 sights 151-4 varicella 1205 Hampi 898 Sun Temple 615 tourist information 160 Varkala 950-5, 952 Jog Falls 892 Taj Mahal 11, 350, 352-3, tours 155 Vashisht 317-18, 310 Jogini Waterfall 317 354, 362, 363, 10, travel to/from 160 356-7 Vedanthangal Bird Khangchendzonga travel within 160-1 Sanctuary 1028 Falls 559 Valley of Flowers Udayagiri & Khandagiri National Park 439-41 vegetarian travellers 1140 Kodaikanal 1067 Caves 601-2 wrestling 809 Vellore 1030-2 Nohkalikai Falls 597 Udupi (Udipi) 891-2 713-14 Phamrong Falls 559 Ujjain 661-3, 662-3 Viceregal Lodge 285-6 659 Y Uletokpo 255 Victoria Memorial 457-8 Raneh Falls 644 Yadavindra Gardens 207-8 Unakoti 595 Victoria Terminus 739- Rimbi Falls 559 Yamunotri 434 Union Carbide disaster 650 42, 13 Vasudhara Waterfall 436 Yapola Valley 256 universities 656-7 Whisper Wave 1102 yoga courses 39-40, 41 Benares Hindu Vijayanagar empire 1114 Anjuna 835 University 391 White Surf 1102 Vijayawada 929-31 water resources 1172 Arambol 840 vikrams 1199 Wayanad Wildlife Bengaluru 861 Visakhapatnam 932-4 Sanctuary 993-6, 995 Bodhgaya 531 Map Pages 000 visas 18, 1190-1 weather 18, 24-8, see Chennai 1009 Photo Pages 000 1131 also individual regions Delhi 79-80 1241 Dharamkot 332 Pune 804 Yumthang Valley 553, 12 Madras Crocodile Bank Goa 812 Pushkar 135 1022 Rishikesh 415-17 Mysore Zoo 873-6 Igatpuri 780 Z Jaipur 113 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta National Zoological 262 Gardens 75 Kolkata 469-70 Dhanwantari Ashram 946 Zanskar 260-3 Padmaja Naidu Leh 229-30 Ziro Valley 579-80

Thiruvananthapuram Himalayan Zoological INDEX Mandrem 839-40 941 zoos Park 503-4 McLeod Ganj 324 Udaipur 155 Alipore Zoo 468 Sakkarbaug Zoo 717-18 Mumbai 752, 753 Varanasi 397 Chiriya Tapu Biological Zoological Gardens 940 Mysuru 877  Y-Z Varkala 951 Park 1092 Zoroastrianism 1136  Palolem 849 Yuksom 559-61 Himalayan Zoological Poondi 1073 Park 545 1242 NOTES 1243 NOTES 1244 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1245

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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