Indian Journal of Traditional Kn owledge Vol. 2( 1), January 2003, pp. 62-68

Medicinal for skin and hair care

Laxmikant Sharma, Gaurav Agarwal' & Ashwani Kumar* 1S.M.S. Medical College, Jaipur Biotechnology Lab, Department of Botany, University of Rajasthan. Jaipur-302 004. E-mai l- msku4 @ hotmai I.co m

Received 30 July 200 I; revised 17 October 2002

Traditional preparati ons for herbal beauty care contain several recipes, whic h may be applied in cosmetic industry without any side effects but with fruitful result s. Emblica officina/is Gaertn. (Amla); Acacia concinna DC . (Shikakai ); Callicwpa macrophylla Yah! (Pri yangu); longa Linn. (Haldi); cordifolia Linn. (Manjith) and Curcuma amada Roxb. (Amhaldi ) are strongly suggested for skin and hair care. This paper provides in fo rmation on uses of Ayurvedic medi cinal plants for cure of skin and hair probl e ms and also on herbal cosmetics. Soap-like plants with their source and essential oi ls are also reported.

Keywords: Herbal cosmetics, Ayurvedic medicin e, Essential oil s, Synthetic chemi cals.

The desire to look beautiful is a human soft and si lky and do not allow them to weakness and is as old as the origin of turn grey at an early stage. The experi­ human being himself. Cosmetics are the ences gathered over centuries went on substances especiall y prepared to enhance accumulating and now cosmetology is a beauty and increase the attractiveness of wel l defined science by itself. The study the person. The prehistoric men who were of primitive cultures indicates that forms cave dwe ll ers used of trees and of cosmetic beautification have been skin of animals to protect themselves practiced in every part of th e wor l d ~ . The from vagaries of nature. The commonly ancient Ayurvedic medical system pre­ avail able vegetation and minerals were dominantly depended upon based 1 used fo r cosmetic purposes • The tradi­ materia-medica. There is the concept of ti onal systems have stood the test of time "Solah shringar" i. e., 16 modes of beauti ­ through centuries of continued use. They fication from head to toe, mentioned in have given several new drugs and modern traditional Indian literature, in which sin­ herbal cosmetics. ln Ayurvedic literature gle or herbal mixtures are appli ed there are records of number of , for this purpose. Even certain me tallic which promote growth of hair, keep them preparations and animal products ha ve been prescribed for local application as * Correspondent au th or well as oral administrati on to beauti fy SHARMA eta/: MEDICINAL PLANTS FOR SKJN AND HAIR CARE 63

3 different parts of the body . In recent General and medicinal uses-Fruit sour years there has been great upsurge in the and asteringent, cooling, diuretic, laxa­ study of Indian herbs. In Ayurvedic tive; a rich source of vitamin C; contains medicine from remote past, herbs have twenty times as much vitamin C as or­ been an integral part of health care sys­ ange juice; used in hair dyes. Seeds yield tem. Besides health care, beautification of oiL the body is also done by herbs, various 4 cosmetics, and colour . Though many Method of application for hair care-Dry Ayurvedic plant products have been re­ fruit powder is used for shampooing hair. placed by sy nthetic chemical compounds, Also used as a tonic for hair . It is the safety and efficacy of natural products strongly suggested for hair care could not find suitable match. There is (Plate I, Fig. A). once again a revival of preference for natural products. In this paper informa­ 2. Rubia cordifolia Linn. () tion on herbs used in medicine and in Common name -Manjit, majith cosmetics particularly for hair and skin Part used-Dry roots and stem care based on Indian community knowl­ Chemical content-Colouring matter pre­ edge is presented. sent, which is a mixture of purpurin and Certain herbs like Rubia cordifolia munjistin. and it 's glucoside is Linn. (Manjith), Acacia concinna DC. present in the plant. A new anthraquinone (Shikakai), Calficarpa macrophylla Yah! derivative christofin is also reported. (Priyangu), Curcuma amada Roxb. (Am­ haldi), Curcuma tonga (Haldi), Emblica General and medicinal uses-It has long officina/is Gaertn. (Amla) have been used been employed for dyeing coarse cotton for skin and hair problems. Different fabrics, etc. Roots tonic, antidysenteric, parts from these herbs are directly applied antiseptic and deobstruent. Decoction of on face and hair in powder form. Most of leaves and stem·s is used as vermifuge. these herbs are used alone; however, Extract of the stem forms a constituent of blending in various forms is also done for the drug septilin used for rhinosinal in­ sy nergistic action. fections. The roots are also used for col­ ouring medicinal oils.

Enumeration Method of application for skin care-Dry 1. Emblica officinalis Gaertn. (Euphorbi­ roots and stem powder rubbed with honey aceae) is recommended as a cure for dark spots Common name-Amla on the face. Majith is strongly suggested Part used-Dry fruits for skin care (Plate I, Fig. B). Chemical content-Phyllembic acid is the chief constituent of fruits. Trigalloylglu­ 3. Acacia concinna DC. (Mimosaceae) cose. terchebin, corilagin, ellagic acid are Common name-Ritha, Shikakai also isolated from fruits. Parts used-Pods 64 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 2, No.1, JANUARY 2003

Plate - 1

Fig. A - Dry fruits of E officinalis (Amla)

Fig. B - Dry stem part of Rrubia cordifolia (Majith)

Plate - 2

Fig C - Dry pods of Acacia concina (Shikakai) Fig. D - Dry fruits of Cal/icarpa macocrophyl/a (Priyangu)

Fig. E - Dry part of the Curcuma longa (Haldi)

Fig. F - Dry rhizome part of the Curcuma amada (Amhaldi) SHARMA era/: MEDICINAL PLANTS FOR SKIN AND HA IR CARE 65

Chemi cal content-A saponin is isolated Method of applicati on for skin care- The from th e seeds. It is a mixture o f acaci­ dry fruit powder is bl ended in creams to nin- A. and acacinin-B. Acacinin-A com­ treat acne, pimples, bl emi shes and oth er pri sed acacic acid and carbohydrates allergic skin patches (Plate 2. Fig. D). moiety consisting o f glucose, xylose, fru ctose. etc. Acacic acid lactone and 5. Curcuma longa Linn. () sa p oge nin-B a r ~ isolated from pods. Common name-Haldi Parts used-Dry rhi zome General and medi cin al uses-Tender acidi c leaves are used in chutneys. Pods Chemical content -The major contents kn own as shikakai are used as detergent ; of dry rhi zome are 0-a -phe ll andrene. D­ th ey are also employed as a fi sh poison. sabinene, cineol, born eol and zing iberene. Decocti on o f pods is purgati ve, and re­ Ii eves bi Ii ousness. Seeds are roasted and General and medicinal uses-In Ayurve­ eaten. dic system of medicine turmeri c is used as a stomachic, toni c and bl ood puri fier. Meth od of appli cati on for hair care-Dry The juice of fresh rhi zome is used as an powder of the pods is used to promote antiparasitic for many skin affecti ons. hair growth and prevent hair splitting, The contain an essential o il and falling and dandruff. It is al so used for the crystal! i ne colouring matter curcu min healthy growth o f hairs and to keep the used as a carminati ve, stomachi c and hairs in th eir o ri ginal colour (Pl ate 2, toni c. Fi g. C). Method of applicati on for skin care-Dry 4. Cal/icarpa macrophylla Yah! (Ver­ rhi zome powder is used as cosmetic sin ce benaceae) ancient time. Turmeri c paste with th e ad­ Common name -Priyangu dition of a little lime is a popul ar applica­ Parts used -Dry fruits ti on for sprains and bruises. The rhi zome is used in ' ubtan' to enh ance the colour o r Chemi cal content-A new tetracycli c the skin (Plate 2, Fi g. E). diterpene calliterpenone and its acetate 6. Curcuma amada Roxb. (Zingibera­ are iso lated and th eir stereostructures es­ ceae) tablished. Other compounds like luteolin, Common name-Amhaldi api genin, luteolin-7-0- glucuronide and Parts used-Dry rhi zome apigenin-7-0-glu curonide are also iso­ lated from dry fruits. Chemical content-Campesterol, sti g­ mas terol, B-sitostero l, cholesterol and General and medi cinal uses-Roots yield fatty acids are isolated from rhi zome. an aromatic o il used in stomach di sorders; Fatty acids comprise saturated straight leaves warmed and applied to rheumatic chain, saturated iso, monoenoic and di e­ joints. noic acid. 66 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 2, No. I. JANUARY 2003

Tabl e I - Some selected Indian pl ants used in herbal cosmeti cs for skin and hair care

S.N . Botani cal name Family Common Part used Cosmeti c uses name I. Acacia c ()// c i Ill/{/ Mimosaceae Shikakai Pods Stops hair splitting. fall in g DC. and dandruff. 2. Aloe borbarlensis Liliaceae Ghikumar Leaves Hair fallin g. dandruff & sun- Mill burn. ]. Asparagus race111o- Liliaceae Shatavari Roots Used Ill cure of wrin ·Ie on sus Willd. face. 4. A:adiracllla indica Meliaceae Neem Different Used Ill skin care. hair & A. Ju ss. parts scalp care 5. Bi.w ore/lana Linn. Bi xaceae Latkan Seed pulp Seeds used for colour. mas- caras & lipcare. 6. Call iw rpa 1//(/( T O- Verbenaceae Pri yangu Fru it s The fruits are blended Ill phylla Yah l cream s to treat acne. 7. Curcuma {/1/1{/d(l Zingibera- Amhaldi Rhi zome A good fac e pac k. Rox b. ceae 8. Curcu111a longa Zingibera- Haldi Rhi zome Improves th e colour of the Linn. ceae skin. 9. Eclipla prostra/a As teraceae Bhringraj Wh ole Used to keep the hairs in their Linn. sy n. E. alba plant ori ginal colour. Hassk. 10. E111blica officina/is Euphorbia- Ami a Fruits Commonl y used for hair care. Gaertn . ceae II. Abei1110schus II/ OS- Malvaceae Mushkdana Seeds Used to prov id e mu sk-lik e clwtus Medi c. syn. fragrance to cosmetics. Hibiscus abel111 o.1·- chus Linn. 12. La 11 •sonio in er111is Lythraceae Mehandi Leaves Used to colour the hairs. Linn. 13. Opuntia dillenii Cactaceae Nagphan i Fruits Used in lip care. Ha w. 14. Rubia co rrl ifi J li a Rubiaceae Majith Whole Application on skin an d lip Linn. Plant care, acne and pimple'

General and medi c in al uses-According According to community kno wledge to Ayurvedic system dry rhizomes are Majith, Haldi , Amahaldi , Priyang u can be recommended for gastric and stomach successfully used for skin and face pro b­ pro bl ems, al so used on contusions and lems like acne and pimples, dark shadows sprain s. They contain an essential oi l. and wrinkle on face. Shikakai and amla singly or in combination can be used in hair problems like dandruff, hair falling, Method o f applicati o n for skin care-The hair splitting, scalpcare and hair colo ur. dry rhi zome powder is used in face packs Detailed information about In dian herbs to cure acne and bl e mi shes (Plate 2, particularly for skin and hair care is given Fig. F). in Table I. Beside these herbs. some SHARMA eta!: MEDICINAL PLANTS FOR SKIN AND HAIR CARE 67

Table 2- Some selected Indian soap-like plants used as cosmetics

S.No. Botanical name Family Common name

I. Acacia concimw DC. Mimosaceae Shikakai (Kochi) 2. Achillea millefolium Linn. Asteraceae Gandana (Milfoil ) 3. Anthemis nobilis Linn. Asteraceae (Roman chamomile) 4. Lawsonia in ermis Linn. sy n. L. alba Linn. Lythraceae Henna 5. Matricaria chamomilla Linn. Asteraceae Babuna 6. Myristica fragrans Houtt. Myristicaceae Jayaphal 7. Nardostachys jatamansi DC. Valerianaceae Jatamansi 8. Phvllanthus emblica Linn. Euphorbiaceae Ami a 9. Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn. Sapindaceae Reetha (Soap nut ) 10. Sapindus saponaria Lour. Sapindaceae Reetha (Soap nut ) II. Sapindus trifoliatus Linn. Sapindaceae Reetha (Soap nut ) 12. Valeriano ofjicianalis Linn. Valerianaceae Tagger

Table 3- Essential oil s used in herbal cosmetics obtained from some selected Indian plants

S. No . Botanical name Family Common name Oil obtained from I. Vetiveria ::J~a ni oides (Linn .) Nash Gramineae Kh as Roots sy n. Andropogon squarrosus Hook.f. 2. Citrus aurantiacu111 Linn. Rutaceae Bergamot oi I Flowers 3. Eucalvptus dives Schauer Myrtaceae Eucalyptus oil Leaves 4. Jasmilllt/11 r~fjic in a l e Linn. Oleaceae Chameli Fl owers 5. Juniperus virginiana Linn. Pinaceae Ceder wood oil Wood 6. piperita Linn. Labiateae Aerial part s 7. Michelia champaca Linn. Magnoliaceae Champa Flowers 8. Mimusops elengi Linn. Sapotaceace Mou lsiri Flowers 9. Pandanus j(tscicularis Lamk. syn . Pandanaceae Kewra Mal e P. tectorius Soland. ex Parkinson in norescence 10. Rosa damascena Mill. Rosaceae Gulab Fl owers II. Santal11111 album Linn . Santalaceae Sandal wood Wood 12. Saussurea lappa Clarke Compos itae Kuth Roots 13. Shorea robusta Roth. ex Gaertn.f. Di pt erocarpaceae Chua Stem 14. 5\ · ~yg ium aromaticum (Linn .) Myrtaccae oil Flower bud Me1Til & Perry 15. Vio la odorata Linn . Vi olaceae Biola Flowers other medicinal herbs having soap-like Discussion properties and used for skin and hair are Several plants have economic qualities and are used for edible or medicinal pur­ li sted in Table 2. Essential o il producing poses. They are being li sted since time plants used for cosmetic purposes are immemorial and are reported to ha ve si de li sted in Table 3. benefits in place of adverse effects gener- 68 INDI AN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VO L 2. No. I. JANUA RY 2003 ally prod uced by th e sy nthetic and ch emi­ stitute for harmful chemica ls and sy n­ 5 cal based harmful products . The pl ants th eti c products. used in cos metics do not merely enh ance bea uty but have definite medicinal value Acknowledgements also(' . The authors wish to ex press th eir sin­ Formulati ons for cure of sunburn, cere th anks to Dr. Surendra K umar complex ion brightener, hair remover and Sharma, Ayurvedic Department. Govt. of preserva ti ves can be prepared from herbs. Rajasthan, Jai pur for va luable advice . The herbs mentioned above co ver a num­ A ward of th e Junior research fello"W ship ber of skin, hair, general body complaints (NET), CSIR, New Delhi to L axmi Kant besides providing natural colours and nu­ 7 Sh arma is gratefully acknowledged . trient s to th e body . A yurvedic tex ts con­ tain several recipes , which may be ap­ plied in cos meti c industry with fruitful References I Jain S K & Na mit a D. Some eth nobotani cal res ults. Safe and effec ti ve, so me of th ese notes from north eastern In di a. Econ Bot. rec ipes are commonly used for beautifi­ 33( 1) ( 1979) 52. ca ti on during au spicious occas ions in 2 Upadhyay V P. Plant s as cosmeti cs. lntcm a­ every Indian home where th e traditional tional se111ina r on 11/ l'dicin al plants. Mungpoo. Govt. of West Bengal. Febru ary 1985. concept of 'Solah Shringar' ex ists since 3 Bh av mi shra. in : Blwvprakash. (G an ga Vishnu time immemori al. and Sh ri Kri shna Das. Stee m Press. Ka ly an. T hese products have side benefits, be­ Mumba i). 1987. 960. sides being effecti ve in main problem; 4 Chunekar K C & Pan dey G S. Blwtpmkash th ey tone up whole system thus ensure Niglwn111 Conunen/a rv. (C houkh amba Pr;lka­ shan . Va ranasi). 1969. 49-56. effec ti ve cure. There is a lot of scope for 5 Parashar R K. Shamngdlwr Smnhiw Colll ­ resea rch on natural preserva ti ve, colour nte/1/ ar\', (Baicl ya Nath Prakashan . . agpur ). and herbs for internal use in cardiac, 1965. 238-25 8. nervous and immune system di seases , 6 SharmJ P V. Dmt•ragun \lig_t·mt-11. (C houk hamba Prakashan. Va ranasi ). 19 79. which are so metimes induced by the arti­ 2 10-240. fi cial life. M ed ical practitioners and 7 Anonymu s. 71t e uscfiil plants of India. (Pub li­ manufac turers can take th e help of mother cati ons and In for mati on Directora te. CSIR. nature to provide safe and harmless sub- New Delh i I). 1986.