Ever-Expanding Egg Opportunities Photo: American Egg Board

Culinary Ever-Expanding Egg Opportunities Photo: American Egg Board

By Walter Zuromski, C.E.C., C.C.E.

e all began our “eggs- prepare an omelet and make a periences” when that hollandaise. As simple a task as it Wfirst scrambled-egg dish may seem, it takes great skill to hit the plate in the early years of our master these applications. Om- life. I always enjoyed working the elets should be fluffy, light and griddle at my family’s diner, cook- creamy in the center and yellow ing eggs in the traditional forms we on the outside. This takes great all know: fried, over light, sunny skill in timing and managing the Walter Zuromski is the owner/op- side up, cooked hard, hard boiled temperature of the omelet pan. erator of the Chef Services Group, in the shell, soft boiled, poached, But nothing beats a great blend- Inc., Lincoln, RI, a culinary R&D shirred or as the star ingredient of ed omelet, or a perfectly cooked consultancy that provides menu a delicious omelet. egg. A scrambled egg cooked just development for restaurants and There is something special right with some truffle-olive oil, chains, product development for about cracking an egg and cook- tender, juicy lobster and a squeeze plants, and food manufacturing ing it up as a center-of-the-plate of fresh lemon is something I in various venues. Zuromski is a dish, or as a classic six-minute could eat any time of day. certified executive chef and culi- soft or coddled egg served over nary educator through the Ameri- lettuce greens. These simple eggs The ageless egg can Culinary Federation. He is add texture, flavor and mouthfeel The egg is an everyday ingre- also a member of the Research to the finished dish. dient—and almost a way of life. Chefs Association and served as The key to cooking an egg is Its versatile uses in formulations a board member for seven years. perfection—it’s either right or make it truly incredible. This mul- Many of his products are in the wrong, no in between. As an ex- tifunctional ingredient, available frozen-food, fresh valued-added ecutive chef, one of the many tests in many forms for both the indus- seafood, and deli sections of su- I gave my new-hire cooks was to trial and culinary worlds, can be permarkets across the country. Culinary

Savory Egg Ideation Eggs are perfect as a center-of-the-plate item. I recently had the opportunity to develop some brunch and lunch egg dishes for a local restaurant group. To mention a few: • Italian Giambotta with Focaccia—eggs cooked inside the bread on the grill birds are related to those used in critical in baking applications, and served with a vegetable giambotta egg production today. they have functions everywhere containing tomato, zucchini, potato, However the egg came to rest in the culinary field. Let’s take a mushrooms, and green and red pepper; in our society, the egg has come a closer look at a few of the egg’s • Eggs Saltimbocca—fried or poached long way since Columbus. It has many merits. eggs served over prosciutto, accom- been an effective and essential Flavor. To me, there is no sub- panied by a tomato and olive caponata ingredient throughout the ages, stitute for the rich flavor the egg crostini served with warm roasted-potato as documented in history. Many delivers to a preparation, particu- salad and broccoli slaw; traditional foods, such as cus- larly in a dish like crêpes, where • Grilled Masa with Smoked Salmon Chive tards, mayonnaise and sponge eggs add both function and nota- Eggs—eggs scrambled, poached or cake, just wouldn’t be complete ble flavor. The egg itself has over fried, served with a sauce of sour cream, without the egg. 100 volatile flavor components cracked pepper and chives, as well as that are not easily duplicated. The Cracking into functionality egg’s flavor is subtle, and the nat- broccoli slaw and warm potato salad; As mentioned, eggs’ unique ural fat in the egg acts as the per- • Huevos Rancheros—classic poached versatility in applications makes fect carrier of flavor, either simple eggs served atop a spinach tortilla cup them extremely functional. In or complex. with ranchero sauce, pico de gallo, Span- addition to their functional attri- Color. Carotenoids in the lipid ish rice and refried beans. butes, eggs offer heightened fla- portion of the lipoproteins found vor, color and mouthfeel to com- in the egg yolk impart the rich, yel- pleted formulations. low color, which provides the yel- In baking alone, besides add- low hue found in many dishes that used either as a center-of-the-plate ing a rich and distinctive flavor contain egg yolks. Furthermore, item or as a small, but critical, part to custards, quiches or savory the proteins and alkaline nature of a formulation. custard pies, eggs have more of eggs contribute to browning in The versatility of eggs, known functional and critical roles. For food, even in acidic products that to French culinarians as les ouefs, instance, egg wash accelerates the normally wouldn’t brown, by in- is reflected in history. Several Maillard reaction, or browning, of creasing pH. centuries ago, the 100 pleats on dough for an attractive finished Clarification. In items such as a chef’s hat represented the 100 color and sheen. In pound cake, consommé, the albumin found in ways to prepare eggs. whole eggs have many functions: egg whites contributes to the clar- It is speculated that the first they emulsify while adding color, ification of the product. domesticated egg was recognized tenderness and flavor. Meringue, Foaming. Whipping eggs cre- around 3200 B.C. in India. Re- the foam based on egg whites, ates foam, as the egg albumins trap cords from Egypt and China trace and the famous and ever-so-popu- air bubbles, forming an insoluble evidence of fowl laying eggs for lar crème bruleé have a large per- film around them. When heated, man back to 1400 B.C. Despite centage of eggs, and most pastry the air cells expand and egg pro- evidence of the Native American formulations have egg ingredients teins coagulate, holding the foam fowl, it is said that Christopher in the dough. Whipped egg whites structure in place to create a light Columbus brought the first chick- provide a light and airy finish. and airy soufflé or meringue. Egg- ens to this country, and that those Even though eggs are most white foam can increase volume Culinary

Processed versions of egg-rich hollandaise sauce help end users reduce the level of potential error involved in preparing eggs Benedict. This is an important factor in a culture where con- venience increasingly reigns supreme.

by eight times in products such those with meringue or angel food cake. Yolks, although less effective, are also used to make foams in applications such as zabaglione or soufflés. Adhesion. Eggs are great for adhesion, such as in a breading process. Viscosity and gelling. In many culinary preparations, eggs coagulate and thicken food preparations. This can be done with either egg whites or yolks. In custard, eggs can suspend ingredients, and in tarts they contribute to gelling. Dessert fillings are often thickened by adding egg products, as well. Emulsification. One of the Photo: Po’ Boys Creole Café most-unique capabilities of eggs is their ability to emulsify. Egg yolks are critical in emulsified oil-and-wa- Deviling the details cessed egg products are certi- ter products, including mayonnaise, Egg products are processed into fied through a mandatory USDA hollandaise and béarnaise sauces, convenient forms specially tai- inspection. These standards are and Caesar dressings. The egg lored for commercial, foodservice enforced for consumer safety and phospholipids, such as lecithin and and consumer use. Egg-ingredient quality assurance of processed cephalin, enable fat to be dispersed forms, including refrigerated, fro- egg products. Packaging of all in water, or drops of water to be dis- zen, dried and specialty egg prod- egg products is designed to meet persed in fat. Egg-yolk emulsions ucts, provide convenient alterna- all needs, from industrial totes of affect the texture of food in two tives for purchasing, storing and 2,500 lbs. to smaller units for con- ways: by coating liquids with fats to utilizing eggs. venient use by consumers. Egg create a smooth, creamy texture in To ensure that eggs are free processors provide options rang- products, from custards to chocolate of pathogen contamination—i.e. ing from 100% eggs to egg prod- truffles, and they thicken. Salmonella—commercially pro- ucts that contain additives such as Culinary

sugar, salt, whipping agents or life and stability than liquid egg item served as a center-of-the- other ingredients for enhanced products. They are easily mixed plate meal, it starts with blend- product functionality. with other dry ingredients such ing whole eggs with half & half For industrial use, after break- as sugar and flour or season- and seasonings like roasted gar- ing the eggs and before packaging ings, or used in dehydrated and lic, fresh or dry herbs, and salt them, processors pasteurize eggs intermediate-moisture products, and pepper. A basic pie crust— to ensure a stable refrigerated such as dry instant mixes and flour, butter or lard, water, eggs shelf life and safety. Ultra-pas- grain-based products. and salt—forms the base of the teurized liquid eggs are also avail- Whichever form is most dish. Flavorful fillings, such as able; they can remain refrigerated convenient and suitable for spinach and sautéed lobster, can up to 12 weeks or more, as com- your application, there is an add interest. Cooking the spin- pared to the 4- to 7-day shelf life egg product out there to meet ach with onion, Pernod and Par- of regular liquid eggs. Following those needs. For the manufac- mesan cheese can take the flavor are some common forms of avail- turer, the inherent benefits of to another level. Add the cooled able egg products: using specialty egg ingredients filling to the pie shell, top with • Refrigerated forms include vs. shell eggs include: safety; the egg custard and bake. whole eggs, hard-boiled eggs, ease of use and plant friendli- When commercializing a quiche, egg yolks and egg whites. These ness; economical for use in the manufacturer generally re- can come as sugared yolks, salt- various applications; and mini- places fresh whole eggs with fro- ed whole eggs or yolks, or as a mal storage needs—all without zen whole pasteurized eggs to scrambled-egg mix. loss of functionality, flavor, optimize the ingredient’s shelf • Frozen options include whole color, etc., when compared to life. A frozen baked quiche gener- eggs, whites, yolks, salted whole fresh eggs. ally will need some stabilizers and eggs, salted yolks, sugared yolks preservatives to extend shelf life and blends of whole eggs and Whipping up ideas and manage water migration from yolks or whole eggs and milk, What many of us fail to the egg product and vegetables some of which might include recognize is that eggs are into the product’s crust. added yolks. Salt or carbohy- more than breakfast. They’re Making a soufflé can be a tricky drates—sugar or corn syrup—are brunch, lunch, dinner and des- process, as it requires proper tim- added to yolks to prevent gelation sert, with imagination. There ing, temperature and the perfect during freezing. In addition, pro- is an endless list of uses for blend of whipped egg whites to cessors can add citric acid also eggs and for applying them in form a meringue. Savory souf- to whole eggs to prevent green- recipes for tremendous culi- flés—made with varying combi- ing when scrambled and held in nary results, including quich- nations of meat, vegetables and foodservice settings. es, soufflés, tortas, frittatas, cheese—can form the basis of a • Powdered egg products can sauces, soups and many more. meal, while sweet types add a fin- replace liquid eggs to overcome The sky’s the limit with these ishing touch. processing limitations related versatile products! For a dessert soufflé, a typi- to handling, among other is- Eggs lend themselves to sev- cal base mixture might include sues. This ingredient form has eral great traditional dishes, melted chocolate, cream, flour, the advantage of a longer shelf such as quiche. A highly popular egg yolks, sugar and brandy. Culinary

The egg whites are aerated to a saucier learns. Taking egg yolks applications that we’re all fa- create a stiff, fluffy meringue and cooking them just right—not miliar with. Eggs can also find and then folded into the choco- overcooked but just starting to their way into salads, soups, ap- late base, placed into individu- thicken—and adding clarified petizers, sandwiches or main- al soufflé cup or a larger souf- butter and seasonings to form the course preparations. They com- flé dish and baked to gain that famous emulsion of eggs, butter bine well with other proteins, famous rise. One way to com- or other fat, and water. Hollanda- vegetables, cheeses and many mercialize this product would ise is manufactured as a “mock savory ingredients. Consumers be in a dry-mix kit form that hollandaise” combining modified today want simple-to-prepare, might contain cocoa powder, food starch, cream or milk-based convenient, healthy and natu- sugar, egg powder and modi- sauce, and egg powder or another ral foods, and eggs continue fied food starch. processed egg product. to provide a viable option for Some sauces, such as allemande these characteristics. and hollandaise, also make advanta- Perfect little packages Whatever you need them geous use of eggs. Allemande sauce is With the myriad uses for for—from ethnic special- made by mixing velouté sauce—stock eggs, they can’t help but find ties like huevos rancheros to thickened with roux—with lemon their way into many formulat- Caesar salad, French toast, or juice, wine and eggs. Veal stock is used ing decisions. Whether it’s for more-upscale offerings like for a classic preparation, but chicken a functional outcome, flavor or brioche or fancy quiche—eggs or fish stock can be used, as well. The textural attributes, eggs can be a just might provide the perfect sauce can add a rich finish over pan- unique and cost-effective addi- package of nutrition, function seared chicken, fish or veal. tion to almost any meal. and appeal. Eggs really are Hollandaise and all of its de- We shouldn’t overlook tak- what they are cracked up to rivatives are one of the first skills ing eggs past the breakfast be—just incredible! ■