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CULINARY Ever-Expanding Egg Opportunities Photo: American Egg Board By Walter Zuromski, C.E.C., C.C.E. e all began our “eggs- prepare an omelet and make a periences” when that hollandaise. As simple a task as it Wfirst scrambled-egg dish may seem, it takes great skill to hit the plate in the early years of our master these applications. Om- life. I always enjoyed working the elets should be fluffy, light and griddle at my family’s diner, cook- creamy in the center and yellow ing eggs in the traditional forms we on the outside. This takes great all know: fried, over light, sunny skill in timing and managing the Walter Zuromski is the owner/op- side up, cooked hard, hard boiled temperature of the omelet pan. erator of the Chef Services Group, in the shell, soft boiled, poached, But nothing beats a great blend- Inc., Lincoln, RI, a culinary R&D shirred or as the star ingredient of ed omelet, or a perfectly cooked consultancy that provides menu a delicious omelet. egg. A scrambled egg cooked just development for restaurants and There is something special right with some truffle-olive oil, chains, product development for about cracking an egg and cook- tender, juicy lobster and a squeeze plants, and food manufacturing ing it up as a center-of-the-plate of fresh lemon is something I in various venues. Zuromski is a dish, or as a classic six-minute could eat any time of day. certified executive chef and culi- soft or coddled egg served over nary educator through the Ameri- lettuce greens. These simple eggs The ageless egg can Culinary Federation. He is add texture, flavor and mouthfeel The egg is an everyday ingre- also a member of the Research to the finished dish. dient—and almost a way of life. Chefs Association and served as The key to cooking an egg is Its versatile uses in formulations a board member for seven years. perfection—it’s either right or make it truly incredible. This mul- Many of his products are in the wrong, no in between. As an ex- tifunctional ingredient, available frozen-food, fresh valued-added ecutive chef, one of the many tests in many forms for both the indus- seafood, and deli sections of su- I gave my new-hire cooks was to trial and culinary worlds, can be permarkets across the country. CULINARY Savory Egg Ideation Eggs are perfect as a center-of-the-plate item. I recently had the opportunity to develop some brunch and lunch egg dishes for a local restaurant group. To mention a few: • Italian Giambotta with Focaccia—eggs cooked inside the bread on the grill birds are related to those used in critical in baking applications, and served with a vegetable giambotta egg production today. they have functions everywhere containing tomato, zucchini, potato, However the egg came to rest in the culinary field. Let’s take a mushrooms, and green and red pepper; in our society, the egg has come a closer look at a few of the egg’s • Eggs Saltimbocca—fried or poached long way since Columbus. It has many merits. eggs served over prosciutto, accom- been an effective and essential Flavor. To me, there is no sub- panied by a tomato and olive caponata ingredient throughout the ages, stitute for the rich flavor the egg crostini served with warm roasted-potato as documented in history. Many delivers to a preparation, particu- salad and broccoli slaw; traditional foods, such as cus- larly in a dish like crêpes, where • Grilled Masa with Smoked Salmon Chive tards, mayonnaise and sponge eggs add both function and nota- Eggs—eggs scrambled, poached or cake, just wouldn’t be complete ble flavor. The egg itself has over fried, served with a sauce of sour cream, without the egg. 100 volatile flavor components cracked pepper and chives, as well as that are not easily duplicated. The Cracking into functionality egg’s flavor is subtle, and the nat- broccoli slaw and warm potato salad; As mentioned, eggs’ unique ural fat in the egg acts as the per- • Huevos Rancheros—classic poached versatility in applications makes fect carrier of flavor, either simple eggs served atop a spinach tortilla cup them extremely functional. In or complex. with ranchero sauce, pico de gallo, Span- addition to their functional attri- Color. Carotenoids in the lipid ish rice and refried beans. butes, eggs offer heightened fla- portion of the lipoproteins found vor, color and mouthfeel to com- in the egg yolk impart the rich, yel- pleted formulations. low color, which provides the yel- In baking alone, besides add- low hue found in many dishes that used either as a center-of-the-plate ing a rich and distinctive flavor contain egg yolks. Furthermore, item or as a small, but critical, part to custards, quiches or savory the proteins and alkaline nature of a formulation. custard pies, eggs have more of eggs contribute to browning in The versatility of eggs, known functional and critical roles. For food, even in acidic products that to French culinarians as les ouefs, instance, egg wash accelerates the normally wouldn’t brown, by in- is reflected in history. Several Maillard reaction, or browning, of creasing pH. centuries ago, the 100 pleats on dough for an attractive finished Clarification. In items such as a chef’s hat represented the 100 color and sheen. In pound cake, consommé, the albumin found in ways to prepare eggs. whole eggs have many functions: egg whites contributes to the clar- It is speculated that the first they emulsify while adding color, ification of the product. domesticated egg was recognized tenderness and flavor. Meringue, Foaming. Whipping eggs cre- around 3200 B.C. in India. Re- the foam based on egg whites, ates foam, as the egg albumins trap cords from Egypt and China trace and the famous and ever-so-popu- air bubbles, forming an insoluble evidence of fowl laying eggs for lar crème bruleé have a large per- film around them. When heated, man back to 1400 B.C. Despite centage of eggs, and most pastry the air cells expand and egg pro- evidence of the Native American formulations have egg ingredients teins coagulate, holding the foam fowl, it is said that Christopher in the dough. Whipped egg whites structure in place to create a light Columbus brought the first chick- provide a light and airy finish. and airy soufflé or meringue. Egg- ens to this country, and that those Even though eggs are most white foam can increase volume CULINARY Processed versions of egg-rich hol- landaise sauce help end users reduce the level of potential error involved in preparing eggs Benedict. This is an important factor in a culture where con- venience increasingly reigns supreme. by eight times in products such those with meringue or angel food cake. Yolks, although less effec- tive, are also used to make foams in applications such as zabaglione or soufflés. Adhesion. Eggs are great for adhesion, such as in a breading process. Viscosity and gelling. In many culinary preparations, eggs co- agulate and thicken food prepara- tions. This can be done with either egg whites or yolks. In custard, eggs can suspend ingredients, and in tarts they contribute to gelling. Dessert fillings are often thickened by adding egg products, as well. Emulsification. One of the Photo: Po’ Boys Creole Café most-unique capabilities of eggs is their ability to emulsify. Egg yolks are critical in emulsified oil-and-wa- Deviling the details cessed egg products are certi- ter products, including mayonnaise, Egg products are processed into fied through a mandatory USDA hollandaise and béarnaise sauces, convenient forms specially tai- inspection. These standards are and Caesar dressings. The egg lored for commercial, foodservice enforced for consumer safety and phospholipids, such as lecithin and and consumer use. Egg-ingredient quality assurance of processed cephalin, enable fat to be dispersed forms, including refrigerated, fro- egg products. Packaging of all in water, or drops of water to be dis- zen, dried and specialty egg prod- egg products is designed to meet persed in fat. Egg-yolk emulsions ucts, provide convenient alterna- all needs, from industrial totes of affect the texture of food in two tives for purchasing, storing and 2,500 lbs. to smaller units for con- ways: by coating liquids with fats to utilizing eggs. venient use by consumers. Egg create a smooth, creamy texture in To ensure that eggs are free processors provide options rang- products, from custards to chocolate of pathogen contamination—i.e. ing from 100% eggs to egg prod- truffles, and they thicken. Salmonella—commercially pro- ucts that contain additives such as CULINARY sugar, salt, whipping agents or life and stability than liquid egg item served as a center-of-the- other ingredients for enhanced products. They are easily mixed plate meal, it starts with blend- product functionality. with other dry ingredients such ing whole eggs with half & half For industrial use, after break- as sugar and flour or season- and seasonings like roasted gar- ing the eggs and before packaging ings, or used in dehydrated and lic, fresh or dry herbs, and salt them, processors pasteurize eggs intermediate-moisture products, and pepper. A basic pie crust— to ensure a stable refrigerated such as dry instant mixes and flour, butter or lard, water, eggs shelf life and safety. Ultra-pas- grain-based products. and salt—forms the base of the teurized liquid eggs are also avail- Whichever form is most dish. Flavorful fillings, such as able; they can remain refrigerated convenient and suitable for spinach and sautéed lobster, can up to 12 weeks or more, as com- your application, there is an add interest.

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