MUMBAIcustom travel guide just made for taufik from September 1 until September 2, 2015 Table of contents

1 ...... 4

2Understand...... 4

2Get in...... 6

2Get around...... 8

2See...... 11

2Do...... 12

2Buy...... 13

2Eat...... 15

2Drink...... 17

2Sleep...... 17

2Stay safe...... 18

2Stay healthy...... 18

2Get out...... 18

1 Useful info...... 20

2Sunrise/Sunset...... 20

2Passport and Visa...... 20

2Emergency numbers...... 21

1 Maps...... 22

1 References...... 32

3 Mumbai · Understand Mumbai

Mumbai

Mumbai to mean "Beautiful Bay" and later made popular by the British as the name of the Bombay state. Understand The name was officially changed from Bombay to Mumbai in 1995. Although Bombay and Mumbai are both used, people who explicitly use "Bombay" are generally non-Marathi speak- ers whereas "Mumbai" proponents primarily speak Marathi and are seen as being more patriotic/Marathi/nationalist/right- wing. In the West, Mumbai has become more commonly ac- cepted in order to avoid controversy.

History

Though the seven islands that now make up the city have a long recorded history like any other place in , their journey to form the city of Mumbai really started in 1498, when the Por- tuguese took them over from the Sultan of Gujarat. They built a settlement, forts, and churches, (including the strange look- ing Portuguese Church that stands to this day.) They, however, could not make much of their possession and the seven islands were handed over to England in 1661 as part of the dowry of Catherine de Braganza when she married Charles II of England. He wasn't very interested in the islands either, and he leased them to the British East India Company for £10 a year in 1668. The East India Company built the docks, the trading posts, and the that would form the nerve centre of the city. They also started off the long process of reclaiming land and joining the Carvings at the islands, an activity which went on until the 1960s.

Mumbai, a cosmopolitan metropolis, earlier known as Bombay, is the largest city in India and the capital of state. Mumbai was originally a conglomeration of seven islands on the coastline which over time were joined to form the island city of Bombay. The island was in turn joined with the neighbouring island of Salsette to form Greater Bombay. The city has an estimated metropolitan population of 21 million (2005), making it one of the world's most populous cities.

Mumbai is undoubtedly the commercial capital of India and is one of the predominant port cities in the country. Mumbai's nature as the most eclectic and cosmopolitan Indian city is symbolized in the presence of Bollywood within the city, the centre of the globally-influential Hindi film and TV industries. It is also home to India's largest slum population.

Mumbai is a bustling, diverse metropolis with a flare all its own. The entrepreneurial spirit and pulsing pace of life provide a sharp contrast to much of the rest of India.

Name

There has been much debate regarding the original name of the city. Some say that the current name of the city Mumbai is the original name; and is an eponym derived from "Mumba", the name of the local Hindu goddess Mumbadevi, and "Aai", meaning "mother" in Marathi. Others claim Bombay was an an- glicized version of Bom Bahia, a name given by the Portuguese

4 Mumbai · Understand Mumbai In January 1993, in the wake of the destruction of the Babri Mosque in Ayodhya, a wave of riots swept the city, with over 1000 people killed, the vast majority of whom were Muslims. Relations between the city's various ethnic groups have been tense ever since, with several terrorist outrages adding fuel to the fire.

Climate

Mumbai has three main seasons — summer, monsoon, and winter (milder summer). The best time to visit is during the win- ter between November and February. Summer is from March to May with highs in the low to mid 30s (roughly 80-90°F). It is hot and humid during this time. June to September is the mon- soon season when the city is lashed by heavy rains. The city gets flooded two or three times and normal life gets disrupted during this season. Climate is humid pretty much throughout the year because the city rests on the coast.

Hutatma Chowk in the night time Sunset at The port attracted industries and the entrepreneurial commu- nities like the Parsis, Gujaratis, and Marwaris (from Rajasthan) Holidays migrated and set up trading companies and factories in the late 19th century. Industries attracted migrant labor from different Mumbai residents celebrate both Western and Indian festivals. parts of the country. The successive waves of migration shaped Diwali, Holi, Eid, Christmas, Navratri, Good Friday, Dussera, Mo- the character of the city and its neighborhoods. harram, Ganesh Chaturthi, Durga Puja and Maha Shivratri are some of the popular festivals in the city. The Arts The city that owes its existence to the efforts of the British Festival is an exhibition of a world of arts that encapsulates was also the birthplace of the Indian National Congress, which works of artists in the fields of music, dance, theatre, and films. played an overwhelmingly important role in the independence movement. The city whose mills were built by industrialists Public holidays specific to the city and the state include Maha- from across the country is the capital of Maharashtra state, rashtra Day on 1st of May, to celebrate the formation of Maha- which was carved on linguistic lines for Marathi speakers. rashtra state on May 1, 1960, and Gudi Padwa, which is the New Year's Day for Marathi people. In the 80s, high labour costs and unrest forced the closure of many textile mills and the city went into a decline from which Festivals it started recovering only in the late 90s. The high population put a strain on the infrastructure. The rail and road network has While many religious festivals are celebrated by people in been undergoing a steady improvement over the 90s, but be- Mumbai, a few of these are essentially public and social cause of the magnitude of the task, the roads seem to be peren- occasions, where the traveller can participate. nially under construction. Mumbai has now reinvented itself as a hub for the Service industry.

5 Mumbai · Get in Mumbai Organized Festivals & Events guages of India are also spoken in Mumbai, most common be- ing Marathi, Hindi, Gujarati and English. English is extensively Mumbai Festival (Jan) Sample the vibrant culture of the city. spoken and is the principal language of the city's white collar The festival covers theater, sports, fashion, food, and shop- workforce. A colloquial form of Hindi, known as Bambaiya – a ping. blend of Marathi, Hindi, Gujarati, Konkani, Urdu, Indian English Banganga Festival (Jan) The musical festival is organized by and some invented words – is spoken on the streets. Maharashtra Tourism (MTDC) annually at on . Mumbai is India's melting pot — a confluence of people from Elephanta Festival (March) Organized by Maharashtra various parts of India, but dominant are people from the west, Tourism, the festival of music and dance at Elephanta then north, and followed by the south. Marathi is the state and Caves has in the past festivals have seen performances by city official language used by State Government agencies, mu- renowned artists like Alarmel Valli, Sanjeev Abhyankar, and nicipal authorities, and the local police, and also the first lan- Ananda Shankar and traditional Koli dances as well as tradi- guage of most locals. tional food. However, being India's largest city and main commercial cen- Religious Festivals tre, Mumbai is now also home to migrants from other parts of India who do not speak Marathi. A local variant of Hindi, with Janmashtami (Jul/Aug) Birth Anniversary of Lord Krishna. strong Bollywood influence, called Bambaiya Hindi serves as Earthen pots full of curd are strung high up across the the "lingua franca". Most educated locals will be trilingual in streets. Young men stand on top of one another to form a Marathi, Hindi and English. human pyramid and attempt to break the pots. Ramadan-Id Muslim festival marks the end of the holy English is widely used in the corporate world and in banking month of Ramadan. Marked by feasting at many places. and trading. At most places, you will be able to get by with Non-Muslims can also join in. Hindi and English, as most people you will encounter can com- Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug/Sep) It is Mumbai's most important municate in broken English at the very least. However, expect and colorful festivals. During the 10 day celebration, Lord to hear more regional languages including Gujarati, Kannada, Ganesh is worshiped in millions of homes. See the colour- Tamil, Sindhi based on work & location. ful processions and participate in them. The , Par- el, and areas represent some of the best large scale decorations. On the last day of the festival, pro- Get in cessions are carried out to bid bye to the loved deity in the sea. These presentations are colourful and carry a celebra- tion fever. The best places to watch them are and By plane Dadar chowpati (beach) or the main roads such as Ambed- kar road from where the processions are carried out. Mumbai has excellent connectivity with most of the major Mt. Mary's Feast (Sep) The feast in honor of Our Lady of cities around the world, including, New York, London, Dubai, the Mount is celebrated with great solemnity at St. Mary's Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur to name a few. If you Church, . A week long Bandra fair is held during this are flying from Europe it is generally cheaper to fly from Lon- time attracting huge crowds. don, and there are many flights daily. Most of the domestic sec- Navratri (Sep/Oct) This is a 10-day festival, where nine of the tors too are linked to Mumbai, making it the busiest hub in the nights are spent in worship and entire Mumbai swings to the country. rhythm of Garba and Raas dances of Gujarati community. Diwali (Oct/Nov) Festival of Lights. Start of New Year and opening of new accounts. Worshiping of Goddess Laxmi. Participate in the fireworks and view the bright lights. Christmas (Dec) This is charcterised by Mid night ( nowa- days held around 8-9PM on Christmas eve due to restrictions on loud speakers) masses in churches and is usually followed by a number of private parties all across the city.

Talk

Residents of Mumbai call themselves Mumbaikar, Mumbaiite or Bombayite. Mumbai has a large polyglot population like any other metropolitan city of India. Marathi, the official lan- guage of Maharashtra state, of which Mumbai is the capital, is widely spoken and understood in the city. Sixteen major lan-

6 Mumbai · Get in Mumbai Airport southernmost point of , the main tourist district. While it is possible to take metered taxis to your eventual destination, it is always a safer bet to take the prepaid taxis, in order to avoid being taken to your destination via a longer route, thus increas- ing the meter reading! While it is not mandatory to pay extra charges for your luggage, a tip shall always be appreciated.

There are many prepaid taxi offices all in a row as you are ex- iting the airport, if one offers a very high rate, just walk to the next window and so forth until you find one with a good rate. Go to the taxi office and purchase a coupon to take to the dri- ver. The coupon will have the taxi registration number writ- ten on it. Make sure that you get into that very taxi. Do not ac- cept a lift from someone claiming to be a taxi driver as they may charge much higher prices designed to target tourists. The charges will depend on the general area you need to get to and will include all tolls to be paid. Most premium hotels will orga- nize their own cars, which is a much better alternative. Newly opened swanky Domestic Terminal 1B

Mumbai's Chhatrapati International Airport (IATA: While most drivers should not have any problem delivering BOM) (ICAO: VABB) is India's busiest airport and one of the you to major hotels and intersections, do not assume your dri- main international gateways to the country. Many internation- ver will be familiar with lesser known hotels etc.. Before depart- al airlines such as British Airways, Delta, Emirates, Malaysia Air- ing, make sure you have secured full address of your destina- lines, Lufthansa, Qantas & Singapore Airlines, fly into Mumbai. tion. By taking this extra step, you should avoid any delays. Low-cost carriers such as AirAsia also fly to the city. You can also take a bus/taxi to Station and take a lo- The airport consists mainly of two terminals (for Domestic & In- cal train from there. Travel 1st class to avoid hassle. Do not try ternational purposes) - both terminals use the same airspace this during the morning rush. It's a good option in the evening, but are 4 km apart. There is a free shuttle bus connecting them, since it's off-peak direction then. but be prepared for long delays through security. Going from Domestic to International you are taken outside the airport and Parking at airports you will re-enter through International Departures. Paid parking is available at the airport. Longer term parking is Terminal 1 Domestic Terminal available in a "premium" area, but it is hideously expensive. Terminal 1A: serves Air India and Kingfisher Airlines Terminal 1B: serves various private airlines, such as Jet Air- ATM ways, Indigo, SpiceJet, & GO Air There are ATM terminals in the international arrival area and The domestic terminals are undergoing a long overdue up- many moneychangers near the exit as well. In order to take a grade. Terminal 1B now meets international standards and taxi from the airport to your hotel, you will need cash rupees. work is going on at Terminal 1A. There are prepaid taxi dispatch desks nearby, but they accept Terminal 2 International Terminal only cash, and only rupees.

Terminal 2A: serves most of the other international airlines Terminal 2B: non-operational at present Tourist traps Terminal 2C: serves Air India and its partner airlines A common scam locals play on tourists is when your taxi cab Terminal 2C is considerably better than the others. pulls up to the airport, a man will get your luggage out of the trunk, put it in a cart, push it for you towards the terminal and Overall, the airport is a bit of a fleapit and immigration is quite along the way will ask you for a baggage fee. This is a lie, there slow, although it has improved considerably over the last 2-3 is no baggage fee, and you should tell them no thank you and years. you kindly take the cart and push it yourself.

To and from airport By boat

The airport is 28 km from downtown. Take a prepaid coupon Numerous travel organizations now offer cruises to Singapore, taxi to minimize hassle. Never pay more than Rs 450-600 for Malaysia, Dubai, etc. Though the cruise industry is still develop- a prepaid taxi. This amount should get you all the way to the ing, Mumbai can be reached by such cruises. Ferries from Ferry

7 Mumbai · Get around Mumbai Wharf allow cheap access to islands and beaches in the vicinity By bus of the city and the Elephanta caves. Mumbai is well served by buses from destinations inside India.

By train Asiad Bus Service- The bus terminal, popularly known as 'Asiad Bus Terminal' on Ambedkar Rd in Dadar east is anoth- Trains arrive in Mumbai from all over India. The Central line er hub from where buses travel to Pune at regular frequency serves connectivity to Southern India, Eastern India, and parts of 15 minutes to 1 hour. Other routes available are Mumbai of North India. The key stations are Chattrapati Shivaji Termi- - Satara, Mumbai - Nasik. The easiest way to reach the termi- nus (formerly Victoria Terminus, known just as VT), Dadar Ter- nal is to cross overusing pedestrian foot bridge to Dadar East minus, and Terminus. The Western line connects to the from the Dadar Terminus and walk straight all the way (less Western states of Gujarat, Rajasthan, and some parts of North than 5 mins) to Ambedkar Rd. India. The main termini are Mumbai Central and Bandra. Private Buses- There also exist numerous private bus oper- The Konkan Railway (which is a separately administered and ators who operate a large number of services from/to Mum- newly built line) travels through the picturesque Konkan coast bai from most major cities like Udaipur, Ajmer, Ahmedabad, of Maharastra and is a good way to travel from and man- Vadodara, Surat, Indore, Nashik, Aurangabad, Hyderabad, galore (Which is called the coastal pardise of India). The Dadar Belgaum, Hubli, Bangalore, Mangalore, Trichur and Goa. Terminus is the destination for the line. For Pune, buses depart every 10 minutes. , Dadar T.T, Sion, and Borivili are the main starting points. Some of the reliable private operators are - National, Sharma, VRL, Konduskar, Dolphin, Paulo and Southern Trav- els. ST Buses- The MSRTC (Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation), commonly known as ST, operates services to Mumbai from various cities in Maharashtra. Mumbai Central is the most important Terminus in the city. All major cities in Maharashtra and nearby states are connected through Mumbai Central Terminus. The other important ST depots are at , Nehru Nagar-Kurla, and . You can get buses for all over Maharashtra from these depots. But from Mumbai Central you would get buses any time as well as other State Transport buses. Quality varies.

Shivaji Terminus Bombay (Mumbai) Get around By car Most of Mumbai's inhabitants rely on public transport to and National highway numbers 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 17, and the Mum- from their workplace due to the lack of parking spaces, traffic bai-Pune expressway radiate from the city providing links to bottlenecks, and generally poor road conditions, especially in all parts of the country. The road conditions are generally bet- the monsoon. However, do ride in a taxi and auto at least once ter than in the rest of India. The comfortable airconditioned in the city. If you are not used to Indian roads, an auto rickshaw blue cabs are available to Pune and Ahmednagar-Nashik from ride can be a heart-stopping, death-defying, laws-of-physics- opposite Asiad Bus Termina in Dadar and Lakhamsi Nappoo bending adventure in a vehicle that feels like it might fall apart Rd near Dadar east railway station respectively. Distances from at a speed over 30 km/h with a driver who thinks he's Schu- various cities to Mumbai are: macher. From Other States- Ahmedabad (550 km, 12 hrs), Banga- lore (998 km), Chennai (1109km), Cochin (1384 km), Goa (593 By taxi km, 11 hrs), Hyderabad (711 km, 24 hrs), Mangalore (713km), New (1407 km) From Maharashtra State- Amravati (673km), Ahmednagar Black & Yellow Top Taxi (300km), Nagpur (844 km), Pune (160 km, 2.5/3hrs) Taxis are cheap and plentiful. Most taxis in Mumbai are small- medium sized cars (non air-conditioned), painted black-and- yellow (black on lower body and yellow on roof). You can hail a cab off the streets. However, many are quite rickety, dirty, and carry mechanical fare meters that could be tampered at times. Also, according to law, a black-and-yellow taxi driver cannot

8 Mumbai · Get around Mumbai refuse a fare. If a driver does refuse, a threat to complain to the Safety tips nearest cop usually does the trick. If you travel alone especially at night, then always see the meter If you have extra pieces of luggage, the boot (i.e. trunk) of the by yourself and then pay the fare. If you are alone, sit in front taxi will not provide sufficient space - one large suitcase is all so that you can see the meter. Most frauds take place at railway that will fit there. Hiring a taxi with a top carrier will be better. terminuses and at the airport. Top carriers can accommodate up to three large suitcases. Be- fore starting the journey, ensure that the luggage is securely fastened to the carrier. Tourist Traps

Generally, the only way to call for the standard taxi is to hail one One of the common scam is to charge the night fare rate during on the street. This will not be a problem if you are inside city daytime. You should be careful and read the heading before limits (i.e. North Central Bombay and below). If you are in the paying. In some cards, the night fare is red in color and daytime suburbs, it will be difficult to find a taxi as they have been out- fare is black in color. competed by the cheaper auto-rickshaws. The other scam is to swap a 500 rupee note for a 100 rupee The maximum number of passengers allowed for a trip official- note and then ask you to pay extra. ly is four — three in the back seat and one in the front. Seat belts are not mandatory for taxi passengers and most standard black Sometimes auto rickshaw drivers charge the Taxi fare and even and yellow taxis will not even have them installed, though ex- show you a tariff card, which is used for taxi fare computation. pect them in the branded ones.

Private Cabs

However, if you want a comfortable, air-conditioned ride at a small surcharge of 25 percent over normal taxis it's best to travel by branded cab services that operate at govern- ment-approved tariffs. These services operate modern fleets with well trained drivers. You can get them at 30-60 minutes notice, they are clean, air-conditioned, equipped with digital, tamper-proof meters, punctual, honest, and GPS-equipped- monitored, which makes them far secure at any time. If you're using a mobile phone, you receive an SMS with the driver's name, mobile number and car number 30 minutes before scheduled departure. Charges are Rs 15 for the first kilometer and Rs 13 for subsequent kilometers, with a 25 percent night surcharge (midnight to 5AM). Some can be booked online.

Some branded cab services are: Auto rickshaw's parked on the streets of Mumbai First Cars Fulora Gold Cab By auto-rickshaw Mega Cab Meru Cab Auto-rickshaws are only allowed to operate beyond Bandra in Priyadarshini Cabs the and beyond Sion in the central suburbs. They are not issued licenses in the downtown areas. Follow the queue system to board a taxi. Quite frequently, tourists and new visitors are mobbed by unscrupulous taxi dri- Before departing, ensure that the meter is visible and shows vers. Most drivers are honest, but the dishonest ones tend to the flag-down reading as 1.00. If the number is higher, insist cluster around railway stations and airports where they can that the driver flags it down once again. The meter also keeps more easily find suckers. Unless you are taking a prepaid taxi, ticking if you are waiting and/or are stuck in traffic. It's quite always ask taxis to go by the meter. At the start of the journey, handy to have a copy of the meter card issued by The Mumbai ensure that the meter is visible and shows the flag-down fare/ Traffic Police. meter reading. Auto-rickshaws are slower than cars and have terrible suspen- sions. Pregnant ladies are most strongly advised not to travel by auto-rickshaws since the combination of rash driving, poor suspensions, and horrible road conditions have quite often led to serious complications. The auto-rickshaw is a slow and un-

9 Mumbai · Get around Mumbai comfortable vehicle and not recommended for very long dis- By train tances.

By bus

Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport (known as BEST) provides efficient and comprehensive services connect- ing up all places of the city and the suburbs. Some services also link the city with the extended suburbs like Navi Mum- bai, , and Mira-Bhayanadar areas. Seats are almost al- ways occupied. There are bus stops all over the city. There is usually a crowd and queue. You have to get in through the rear entrance and off at the front. Tickets are issued by a uniformed "conductor" after you get in. Special seats are marked for "Ladies", "Senior Citizens", "Handicapped", "Expec- tant Women", and "Women with infants". They can get in from the front.

Buses run from 5AM to midnight. Selected routes run beyond these timings, but much less often. Average frequency be- tween buses ranges from five to 30 min depending on the route. Fares are reasonable and buses can be travelled dur- ing peak hours, unlike trains which are far too crowded. Some trunk routes do get extremely crowded however. Peak hours also have traffic snarls which may depend on the area traversed and the state of the roads. route map

Buses are numbered and the final destination is marked on the front in Marathi and on the side in English. Generally, buses Suburban Rail Network around the city and trunk routes would be in the 1-199 series. Most people travel in Mumbai using the Suburban Rail Net- Buses in the western suburbs would be the 200 series while work commonly referred to as "Locals". Mumbai has an exten- those plying in the central and would be in the sive network, with three lines — the Western Line, the Central 300 and 400 series. Services to Navi, Mumbai are in the 500 se- Main Line, and the Harbour Line. Mumbai is a linear city and ries and buses to the Mira-Bhayander area are in the 700 series. the Western Line travels from to via Mumbai's The BEST website has a nifty tool that will help you plan your Western Suburbs. The Central Main Line travels from Mumbai journey. CST (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus), aka VT Victoria Terminus BEST has introduced the "DayPass" (across Mumbai, Mi- to via Mumbai's Central Suburbs and Thane, with some ra-Bhayander, and Thane) - for children it's less), services running beyond to , , and Kasara. The in- a ticket valid all day (until midnight) on all buses except Express terchange point for these two lines is Dadar. and A/C services. The Harbour Line has a common stretch between Mumbai CST (aka VT Victoria Terminus) and Vadala. The harbour line splits into two spurs, the main one running to Mumbai's East- ern Suburbs and Navi, Mumbai, up to Panvel. The Interchange point of this line with the Central Main Line is at Kurla. The oth- er spur of the Harbour Line runs up to on the Western Line and runs parallel up to . The interchange stations with the Western line are Bandra and Andheri.

Trains on all lines start operations after 4AM and close opera- tions between midnight and 1AM. Second class travel is very cheap. However, it is advisable to buy first class tickets as the economy class is extremely crowded. First Class can be quite expensive and if four people are travelling together, a taxi might be better.

There are special coaches for women on both classes. These are generally less crowded and safer. But very late at night, it might

10 Mumbai · See Mumbai actually be safer to travel by the general coach than the first- tu Sanghralaya (formerly, the Prince Of Wales museum). The fa- class women's coach, as the latter may be absolutely empty ex- mous Taj Mahal hotel is located just opposite the Gateway of cept for you. Sometimes they have a cop guarding the coach- India. The Mumbai University buildings and the High Court are es, but sometimes they won't. Use your judgment. also excellent examples of colonial architecture in the city.

There are a lot of other modern structures to look at in this area. By ferry The area known as Marine Drive (right from Chowpatty beach to NCPA) is home to a large number of buildings built in the Art These are a few intra-city ferry services: Deco style. Mumbai is second only to Miami in the number of to Elephanta caves Fast boats and Cata- Art Deco buildings. Some famous buildings in this style are the marans operated by private operators. These are moderate- Eros and Regal cinemas. ly priced. This is the only way to get to Elephanta Caves. Marve Jetty () to Manori Jetty Cheap ferry (by BEST) Museums and Galleries connecting Manori and . Also services for Esselworld (Amusement Park). Versova (Andheri) to Madh Jetty Cheap ferry connecting Madh/Erangal/Aksa/Marve. Gorai (Borivali) to Gorai Beach Low cost ferry connecting Gorai Beach/Esselworld.

By car

Travel Agents and Hotels can arrange private chauffeur driven cars to provide services. Expensive by comparison with taxis, they are the most trusted, secure, and comfortable way to trav- el around the city. Driving in Mumbai can be difficult, because of poor driver discipline, but chauffeur driven services are very reasonable. These can be arranged by travel companies or on- line from the countries of origin. Many reputed car rental agen- cies such as Avis and Hertz also have services in Mumbai.

See

There is a lot to see in Mumbai, but the typical "tourist" sights are concentrated in .

By Indian standards, Mumbai is a young city and much of the land comprising the city did not exist until it was claimed from the sea over three centuries ago. It is therefore, a pleasant sur- prise to find rock cut caves such as the Elephanta, Kanheri, and Mahakali within city limits.

Nehru Centre Colonial buildings Some of the most famous museums and art galleries in India The British built a magnificent city within the walls of Fort are found here. The Kala Ghoda area in South Mumbai teems St. George, which lies at the southern extremity of the city. with them, particularly the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vas- Some fine examples of the Gothic revival, Neo-classical style tu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Museum) , and the National and Indo-Saracenic style are seen within this area. To get the Gallery of Modern Art. Once again, most of them are concen- best [South Mumbai] experience, stroll around the wide streets trated in South Mumbai. Also, worth planning a visit is Jehangir of the area right from Churchgate to Colaba. These areas are Art Gallery, also, at Kala Ghoda, displays changing exhibits by all beautifully planned and have wide and clean pavements notable artists. The plaza next to the gallery also regularly dis- unlike the rest of the city. Famous monuments to be seen plays exhibits of various artists. in this area are the Gateway of India, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Situated in Nehru Complex in is Art Gallery Terminus (Victoria Terminus) building, the Municipal Corpora- at Worli, a gallery dedicated to young and promising talent tion and Police Headquarters and the Chhatrapati Shivaji Vas- along with established artists. Also within the complex is locat-

11 Mumbai · Do Mumbai ed a permanent exposition, Discovery of India, which attempts Some city parks are very well-maintained and combine histo- to cover every aspect of artistic, intellectual and philosophi- ry as well. The "Hanging Gardens" on Malabar Hill offers stun- cal attainment of India through ages. The exposition spreads ning vistas of the Marine Drive. Opposite the Hanging Gardens, across 14 galleries and reflects true identity of the country. On there is another park, which is known as Kamla Nehru Park, fa- the other end of the complex, - which mous for the striking shoe-shaped structure, which has been has a separate entrance from Mahalaxmi race course road, has filmed in various Bollywood movies. a permanent exhibition on 'interactive and exciting' science re- lated exhibits highlighting science principles in fun yet educa- Further in South Mumbai, the Garden, is an- tional way. other hidden gem. This is set off a small side street off the Co- laba Causeway 2-3 kms south of the main section. Once again, lovely views of the port, the naval yards, and sunset. Beaches In central Mumbai, there are the Five Gardens. Mainly used by Mumbai has a few beaches, including one in the downtown walkers in the morning, it is a mess in the evenings. But the gar- area. But they aren't that great and the water off Mumbai's dens encircle some historic, art deco residences. coast is extraordinarily dirty. The relatively better ones are in the Northwest Mumbai area. However, they are a great place to Religious places see how the locals soend their Sunday evenings, with various food and game stalls. But there are other beaches to be found Mumbai has temples, mosques, churches, Parsi agiaries, and such as the Girgaon Chowpaty in South Mumbai, beach even a few synagogues reflecting the diversity of its citizens. in the western suburbs and in Malad. The currents While these are naturally of interest if you are a believer, some, don't seem strong, but particularly in the rains, lots of people like the Portuguese church at Dadar are worth visiting just for die from drowning, so avoid getting in the water (especially at their unique architecture. Aksa Beach). A word of advice to women: Bombay beaches are not the kind you can wear swimsuits to, particularly two-pieces. Do

There is a lot to do in Mumbai, but lack of space means that for outdoorsy activities, you need to head north, often outside city limits. In the Northwestern suburbs and Thane, you will find opportunities for water sports like H20 at Girgaum Chowpatty. There are two golf courses in the city, the more famous one in Chembur in the Harbour suburbs.

Mumbai has a vibrant theater scene with plays in many lan- guages including English, Hindi, Gujarati, and Marathi. While South Mumbai has frequent performances, the best organized theater effort is at Prithvi theater, Juhu in the Western Suburbs. There are plenty of opportunities to enjoy Indian classical mu- Chowpatty beach sic and dance. While not a patch on the Sabhas of Chennai, you will find frequent performances of Carnatic music in Shan- Zoos, parks and gardens mukhananda Hall, Matunga in the South Central suburbs.

Mumbai has a justified reputation as a concrete jungle, but Mumbai is also usually the first stop for Western pop and rock there are some nice pockets of greenery within the city. It is al- stars visiting India, which they usually do when they are over so one of the rare metropolises to have an entire national park 50. The Rock scene is very good in Mumbai. These are very safe within its borders. (Borivali national park also known as Sanjay to go to and are recommended for rock fans. Most bands cov- Gandhi National Park). You will not visit Mumbai for them, but er heavy metal acts like Pantera, Six feet under, and Slipknot, if you are already here, they make a nice escape from the din but at places like 'Not just jazz by the bay', there are treats for and bustle. It also houses the ancient crafted out Jazz fans, as well. To try to find places with specific music tastes of rocky cliffs, which dates back to 2,400 years. try asking students outside Mumbai's colleges. Western classi- cal music performances are rarer. However, most classical mu- The city zoo (Veermata Jijabai Udyan) is in and is a colo- sic performances along with other art forms are regularly per- nial relic, which is surprisingly well-preserved. The animals may look rather emaciated, but the sheer diversity of trees on this lush zoo is worth a trip.

12 Mumbai · Buy Mumbai formed at NCPA and Tata Theatre, both situated next to the Cruise on a Harbour Cruise- Cruises from Gateway of India narrow strip at Nariman Point. leave every 30 min daily except during the monsoon season (Jun-Sep). Experience Bollywood- Plan a trip located in Gore- Join for Heritage walks- Organized by two architects, these gaon and enjoy the first hand experience of Bollywood walks take you around various historic and architecturally shooting. significant areas of the city. Walks are organized on the third Watch a Movie- can be as fun as well as an experience, spe- Sunday of every month (with a break from June through Au- cially when it comes to local Bollywood blockbusters. Af- gust for the monsoons) and the route varies each time. The ter all you are in the Bollywood land. Expect whistles and walks last around 90 min. clapping by crowd in admiration of their celebrities on the Walk along Marine Drive- Also known as Queen's Necklace, screen. Most of the cinema halls run both 'popular and new' this beach-side promenade is worth a ride. A walk can be Bollywood as well as Hollywood movies and some even planned from Girgaon Chowpati (Girgaon beach) all the way screen ones in regional languages. Some of the popular Hol- up to Nariman Point. Be careful and avoid this area during lywood screening cinema halls in South Mumbai are Eros heavy rains. opposite Churchgate, Metro on M.G.Road, Regal in Cola- Take a morning walk on Juhu beach ba, Sterling next to CST Station, and New Excelsior in Fort. Celebrate Kala Ghoda Festival- The arts and crafts festival Checkout newspaper listing to get the list of latest screen- is held in the last week of Jan or first week of Feb annually in ings. the historic precinct of Kala ghoda in Mumbai. Visit Essel World Take Luxurious Taj Private Yacht- If you can afford it, rent Take A Dip AT Water World the Taj's private yacht (has two sun decks and three bed- Visit Museums and Art Galleries rooms) for a cruise around the . Greet Nature- Visit Borivili National Park or go for Flamingo Enjoy Theatre & Performances- Mumbai offers unlimited watching in Chembur (check with Bombay Natural History opportunity to theatre lovers and there are regular shows Society for further info). across theatres in the city. Check newspapers on latest shows as well as performances at prominent halls such as Prithvi Theatre, NCPA, Tata Theatre. Get Crowded- Try catching suburban trains at peak times. You are warned though. Chowpati Jayenge Bhel Khayenge- As it says in the lyrics of one of the Bollywood movie song, go to beaches (specially in the evenings) and enjoy local favourite '' while sun sets in Arabic sea.

Buy

How

Visa and Master cards are widely accepted in the city shops. Marine Drive Many shopping establishments also accept American Express, Get Templed Out- There are so many religious places Diners and host of other cards. However, some of the small around in the city (both old and new) that one can plan a shops or family-run shops may not accept these cards and day long itinerary on that. Start with Mahalkshmi Temple, some handy cash can be of help here. ATMs are widely avail- Banganga Temple, Siddhi Vinayak, Afghan Church, Mahim able and many debit cards accepted as well. If you have an In- Church, Haji Ali.. dian bank account or credit card, you may not need to carry Take a Slum Tour- from Reality Tours and Travel, or Be the too much of cash. If you are a foreigner, it is a good idea to car- Local Tours, can be set up to walk through , Asia's ry some cash to avoid charges while using your credit or debit card. largest slum. Both groups are socially conscious, one run by students in Dharavi itself, and many of the proceeds go to In general, costs in Mumbai are higher than the rest of India, charity. Note: Photos are not permitted during either group's though they are still much lower by Western standards. tour of the slum, out of respect for the residents. If you must have that slum pic, just provide your guide with your email details, they will be happy to arrange to email you a nice set Where of pics. The shopping experience in the city is a study in contrast. At the lower end of the spectrum are street vendors. Existing at

13 Mumbai · Buy Mumbai the borderline of legality, entire streets have been given over Cotton Clothes. Mumbai is great place to buy quality and to these hawkers and in many places it is impossible to walk on cheaper cotton clothes. Amongst many notable shops and the footpaths, because they have blocked the way. On the oth- brands, Cottonworld is a place to look out for. er hand, these vendors often give you a great bargain though Dhoop. (translates into Sunshine or Incense) A quaint, stylist you will have to haggle a lot and be careful about what to buy. store where you can find really interesting quality crafts and There's nothing like taking a local along to shop for you. home accessories. Burlingtons. In the Taj is a tailor specializing in Indian out- Family-run shops. Or one could do shopping at family-run fits. Buy some material and get some clothes made up by a shops, where the items are behind the counter and one has tailor. It's an incredibly cheap way to get quality made-to- to ask the salesperson to get items from the list. The tradi- measure clothes. Usually only takes a couple of days. tional way to buy sarees or jewelry is to go to a shop where Leather Jackets. Go to the main road in Dharavi. You can fit you sit on a bedspread laid out on the floor and the sales- yourself with a leather jacket (they stitch it for you) of leather people bring out their wares one-by-one until you make a you pick. Usually takes just one day to get it. decision. Shops like Bharat Kshetra in Dadar have scaled this Antiques & Second Hand Items. Visit Chor Bazar for the model up to such an extent that they have a two-storied best options and bargains complex where you can do the same. Carpets, Rugs and shawls Shopping Malls. Mumbai has been experiencing a boom in malls in the past few years. You can combine your shopping, dining out, and watching movies all in one place.

What

Khadi Clothing. Khadi is an authentic Indian variety of home spun cotton. Mahatma Gandhi advocated the use of khadi as a form of satyagraha against the use of foreign goods and a form of rural self-employment for India during the pre-in- dependence days. Check out the Khadi Gram Udyog Bhavan located at 286, DN Road, Near the Mumbai GPO & Chatrap- ati Shivaji Terminus. It is run by the Khadi Gramudyog Vikas Samiti, which is an umbrella organization started by the Ma- hatma himself which today has evolved into a government Colorful Sarees registered unit promoting the use of khadi. A good place to buy souvenirs including khadi Indian flags. These are similar Sarees. The best place to buy them is Dadar (both east and in type to the ones used during the freedom struggle. It also west). The place is buzzing 12 months a year. On Sundays houses other forms of fabrics like pure cotton wool, and silk. the crowd can be maddening for outsiders. Good shops to Items on sale include Blankets, Sweaters, Shirt pieces, San- buy Sarees are Dadar Emporium, Lazaree, Roop Sangam. On , Shoes, Folders, Files, etc. All the items are hand made. N C Kelkar Road and Ranade Road you can buy almost every- Some of the items make use of natural straw. They also offer thing a woman needs. Bargain hard. a collection of handmade paper products. Pashmina. Cheap stuff is everywhere and decent shawls in Traditional Clothing & Handicrafts. State government op- every hue can be purchased at various markups in any hotel erated emporiums such as those for Maharashtra, Gujarat, arcade. High-quality items in unusual colors and unique de- Jammu & Kashmir etc sell state specific items of clothing and signs require more searching. The "pashminas" sold on Co- handicrafts. These are located in places around South Mum- laba Causeway are not anywhere close to pashmina. bai or the shopping arcades of Five Star Hotels. There is al- Indian Musical Instruments. Indian music has its own set so a Central Cottage Industries Corporation of India Empori- of musical instruments such as Tabla, Harmonium, straight um located near the Gateway of India beside the Tendulkar's Flute that it relies upon. These can be bought at various mu- restaurant. The items on display include embroidered cloth- sic shops scattered across the city. Some well-known shops ing, carvings, paintings, sculptures etc and are reasonably are L.M.Furtado, Ghaisas & Bros. priced. Amongst the private labels, Fabindia is a must vis- it for its variety of kurtas [tunics], salwars, pyjamas, churi- dars & dupattas. They also offer bedspreads, cushion covers, Bookshops decorative pillows, quilts, table linens, home furniture etc. Mumbai has large number of organized book shops. Howev- Just like the government owned emporiums, Fabindia oper- er, it also has number of streetside secondhand book shops or ates on a cottage industries model where products are hand displays that give opportunity to come across rare collections. crafted by artisans and sourced from villages across India. Many of these roadside book shops can be prominently found, Good quality, smart colours, trendy designs, but prices are a bit on the higher side. Stores are located across Mumbai.

14 Mumbai · Eat Mumbai among many, near , Maheshwari Udyyan (for- Street food stalls mer King's Circle) and Dadar west market. Songs have been written about Mumbai's street food and you Tourist Traps will find that the hype is justified. You will find them at every street corner, but they are concentrated in beaches and around In a place without clearly displayed price tags (and sometimes railway stations. even in places with), you will get charged about 3-4 times as Bhelpuri stalls. Selling what in the rest of India would be much as a local if you seem like a tourist. Take a local with you if called . In Mumbai itself, the term chaat is rarely used. you're going to local markets to haggle. Haggling is much loud- Rolls. Essentially different meat and cheese grilled and er and ruder in India than elsewhere. Don't be afraid to hag- served with some and spice, these are cheap and cheer- gle things down to 1/4 of the asking price. Most importantly re- ful for anyone with a stomach that can handle it. They are member that almost all stores that sell carpets, jewelry, handi- known to be spicy so always ask them to make it mild. Try crafts, etc. pay huge amounts of commission (25% up to even Ayubs (Kala Ghoda), Bade Miyan (highly over-rated), Khao 50%!) to the cab drivers, hence avoid tourist taxis, cabs, etc. An- Gulli (Food Lane, near Mahim Hindu Gymkhana), or Kareems other thing to remember is not ot haggle just for the fun of it. (Bandra). All are particularly busy after a night of heavy drink- The shopkeepers may take offence if you don't buy an item af- ing. ter they have agreed to your price. One of the places that you pav stands. Fried potato stuffed in yeasty bread. can trust is The World Trade Center (in , near Ho- Developed to provide nourishment to mill-workers in tel Taj President). Besides being the only World Trade Center in Mumbai's burgeoning mills. Now they are found every- Mumbai, this place has an amazing range of exquisite carpets, where, particularly in the railway stations. This is a Mumbai handicrafts, shawls, etc. with reputed government approved specialty. In Vile Parle (West), try the one off S.V Road near Irla stores and state emporiums too. Ask for receipts everywhere, across from Goklibai School. Also, try the one outside Grant including bars, and check what you have been charged for. Road Station and Churchgate Station. Don't ever accept a guide offer or escort of somebody from the Sandwich stands. Uniquely developed in Mumbai, you will street, you will certainly get conned. If some place (including cabs, eateries, stores, etc) claims it doesn't have change (this not find anything like it anywhere else in India or the world. Chinese food stalls. is highly unlikely), insist they get change from a neighbouring You will find them at many places, but store. they are particularly concentrated near Dadar railway sta- tion. They all have a typical Indian twist added to it, which is why it is frequently called "Indian Chinese". Although it is great tasting, the hygiene of these places leaves a lot to be Eat desired. Bhurji. Either Egg bhurji or Paneer bhurji, a mash of eggs The dining experience at an upscale restaurant in Mumbai is and chopped tomato, onion, chili, and lots of oil. Eaten on more or less the same as anywhere else in the world. If you the side with some pav. Try the Maker Chamber area. search hard enough, you will find cuisine from practically every part of the world represented in the city. But, to get a real Tip: cheap and tasty food stalls are concentrated around the flavour of what's unique to Mumbai, you will have to go a little city's colleges. lower down the scale and experience the street food and Irani Street stall food in India is fantastic, and dirt cheap. Howev- cafes. For individual restaurants and other places to eat, go to er, do consider well what you are putting in your mouth. Al- the individual district pages. most certainly the water used is non-potable, street vendors Don't leave Mumbai without trying: don't seem to understand much about hygiene or hand-wash- ing, and food safety standards are low, with flies buzzing over Gujrati, Maharashtrian and Thali everything. Even locals steer clear of street food during the Indian Chinese monsoons, when diseases run rampant. If the stall seems very Goan seafood clean, and if it clearly states that it is using Aquaguard or min- As many different kinds of chaat (Bhelpuri, Pav etc) as eral water, go for it. your stomach can handle rolls, Pattis, Keema Indian sweets- milky, delicious concoctions (try the Authentic Marathi Cuisine at Badshah's in Crawford market) Mumbai being home to large ethnic Marathi community has (the great Indian veg burger) its share of notable restaurants that offer taste of authentic South Indian food from an Udupi restaurant Marathi cuisine. Most offer both snacks and regular dining. Bread Maska (Bread & Butter) from an Irani Cafe Some of the snacks to check out are Sabudana Wada, Batata Kingfisher Blue beer Wada, Missal, Kanda Poha, Uppit (or ), Shira, Alu Wadi, Alfanso Mangoes during summer season Thalipith, Zunka Bhakari, ghavane (neer ) and many more.

15 Mumbai · Eat Mumbai Two notable appetizer is Kokam Sarbat and Solkadhi, piyush, kairy panhe best enjoyed during hot summers. People say that its though many of these authentic Marathi restaurants are finding difficult to survive competitions with other modern or fast food typed restaurants, but you will find Gajali, Malvan Kinara, Sindhudurg and many more have retained their own charm and clientelle.

Udupi restaurants

Mangalorians(and udupi) forms the highset tourist popula- tions of Mumbai, and both the cities have almost same culture and architecture. "Udupi" restaurants (or "hotels") are every- where. They bear the name of the town of Udupi in Karnataka, but do not be misled into thinking that they specialize in the cuisine of Udupi. They serve pretty much everything, and that is their specialty. Vada Pav. the vada is a mashed potato patty. Pav is a kind of bread that has its roots in Mumbai. (The word comes from They are fast food joints and sit-down restaurants combined. the Portugese word "pão", for bread). The potato patty is The reason to visit them is not to experience fine gourmet din- sandwiched in the bread. Liberal helpings of three kinds of ing, but to have cheap, passably tasty and fairly hygienic food. chutneys (sauces) are also added to the sandwich to make There is no easy way to identify an Udupi restaurant — they a seriously tasty snack. If you feel uncomfortable with the are not a chain of restaurants and they may not have "Udupi" hygiene of a particular stall, avoid it. In that case eating at , in their name, so you will have to ask. Jumbo Vada Pav outlets, found almost at all train stations in Matunga(Central line) has the best south indian fare in Mum- the city, is a hygienic and safer options. bai. There are few restaurants which could well be heritage . Part of the street food culture, this is mashed veg- sites as they are more than 50 years old and still retain their old etables cooked in spices, topped with butter and served pip- world charm(and furniture). ing hot with pav. Widely available. Bhel Puri & . A classic Mumbai concoction, bhel-puri Thalis (or bhel for short) comprises mostly of puffed and as- sorted spices with a few chutneys. You can specify whether If you order a thali (translated as "plate"), you get a complete you want it spicy or bland and the vendor will make it for meal arranged on your plate, with a roti or chappati, rice, and you. It is quite tasty and again ought to be had off the streets many different varieties of and curd. Ordering a thali is to get the real flavour. Most people though, like to flock to a popular option when you are hungry and in a hurry as it is Juhu beach to try this out. usually served blazingly fast. Most mid-level restaurants have Pani Puri. For first timers, this can be seriously intriguing. a thali on the menu, at least during lunch hours. Occasionally, The vendor hands you a plate. Next, he takes a puri (it looks they are "unlimited", which means that some of the items are like a golf ball, but brown in color), makes a small hole in all-you-can-eat. The waiters serve them at your table. it, and dips the puri into two jars. These jars contain water — one tangy on a tamarind base, the other spicy on a mint Of course, you find many varieties of them, both vegetarian base. He tops it off with some condiments and places the and non-vegetarian. There is the South Indian thali. The "North puri on your plate. You pick it with your hand and pop the Indian" thali translates to Mughlai or Punjabi. Do try Gujarati whole thing into your mouth. The outcome is an explosion. or Rajasthani thalis if you can find them. They are sinfully fill- Awesome. A word of caution here though. Make sure you ing and tasty. Rajdhani (At Crawford Market) serves up thalis in don't have your pani puri from just any vendor. The best ven- the Rajasthani style while Aram (near Mahim Church, Mahim), dors use only packaged water. Stick to that and enjoy the Ramanayak Udipi (At Matunga Station, east) serves up thalis in taste. South Indian style and Shree Thakker Bhojanalaya (off Kalbade- Indian-Chinese. Nothing like regular Chinese. For a typical vi Road) do filling and fabulous Gujarati thalis. Bambaiyya flavour, try the Chinese Bhelpuri!. Hapus (Alphonso) mangoes. A must try, if you happen to What to eat be in Mumbai in the summers. Mewad ice cream. If you happen to be in mumbai, it is Asking a local for suggestions is a fun way to try new things. recommended you avoid ice creams from the famous and Here are a few suggestions: expensive parlors and try out the cheap Mewad ice cream stalls. They are a lovely treat at their price and provide a lot

16 Mumbai · Drink Mumbai of options. The vendors are found everywhere across the coffee with origins from , from any Udupi restau- streets, but avoid those who appear unhygienic. rant. Variations of world cuisine. Such as Piz- zas or McAloo Tikki burgers. Sleep Tipping

Tip between 5-10% at sit-down places. If a place includes ser- vice charges on the bill, you don't need to leave an extra tip. Note the difference between service tax and service charges. Service tax goes to Government and not to the staff. While tip- ping is always good practice, at bars you don't necessarily have to tip the bartender. You do not have to tip cab or auto drivers at all, and don't get out of the vehicle until they have given you full and exact change.

Drink

Pubs & Bars Taj Mahal Hotel at night Mumbai is one of the most liberal cities in India when it comes It is very difficult to find good budget hotels in Mumbai. If you to attitudes to alcohol. Bars exist at virtually every street cor- are a tourist or a business traveller, you may have to stay in ner and many of them advertise themselves as "family" bars South Mumbai, which is where both the business district and and restaurants, which indicates that they are primarily restau- the touristy areas are. Lack of space means that even the cheap- rants where one can also have a drink. Other places are primar- est hotel charges stratospheric tariffs. The state of public trans- ily bars, some of them might be sleazy. In South Mumbai and in port and traffic means that it is not really a good choice to stay the Western suburbs, you are likely to find many places where anywhere else. In any case, things aren't much better if you are foreigners hang out. looking for hotels close to the airport. You should be looking at Mumbai is much more accepting of women drinking than the the Western Suburbs in that case. There are many guest hous- rest of India. A woman ordering a drink is unlikely to raise eye- es at Colaba, where you find most of budget foreign travellers brows even in mid-range bars, though if you are alone, you stay. Other budget hotels are found near railway stations, such might need to look out for your safety. as Dadar or Santa cruz, but most of them are absolute dumps. One safe and economical place to stay in Mumbai is the YMCA. Nightlife in Mumbai spans the gamut from performances at Reasonably priced accommodations are available at the Cola- five star hotels to discos. Dance bars which involve young, ful- ba, Bombay Central, Andheri, and CBD Belapur Branches. ly clothed women dancing mostly to Hindi film and pop mu- sic, have been shut down by the government for corrupting One inexpensive alternative is to live with a local family as a the morals of those who frequent those places. While the state paying guest. A list of available families can be obtained from high court has ruled that the crackdown was illegal, it will be a the tourist office opposite Churchgate while before they open again as there are some technicalities train station. involved to be sorted out. In Mumbai, alcohol is much more On the other hand, if money is of no object, you can stay at easily available than many cities in India. the Taj in Colaba (the oldest in India), the Leela Kempinski, the ITC Grand Maratha, or the JW Marriott Mumbai, Renaissance Coffee Shops Mumbai Hotel & Convention Centre. Hotel listings are in the district pages. There, many coffee shops in and around Mumbai. Try the Cafe Coffee Day and Barista chains. These are the best around town and also serve some pretty neat coffee for cheap. There's the Cafe Mocha chain of coffee shops which also serve fruit flavoured hookas — South Asian smoking pipes. If a small cof- fee and cookies place is what you are looking for, try Theobro- ma, it has an outlet at Cusrow Baug in Colaba. Those looking for a more native form of coffee can try the filter coffee, a milky

17 Mumbai · Stay safe Mumbai Violent crime in Mumbai is more or less like any other large Stay safe Indian city. Most notably, terrorists have staged several mur- derous attacks in Mumbai, targeting banks and the stock ex- Know The City change in 1993 (killing around 300), commuter trains in 2006 (killing over 200) and top hotels including the Taj Mahal Palace City Map Eicher has an excellent city-map of Mumbai with and Oberoi in 2008 (over 170 dead). The last of these saw for- detailed listings. Familiarize yourself with it before you be- eigners, specifically Americans, Britons and Israelis, explicitly gin, or alternatively trace your route on it. targeted for the first time. BEST Route Map Thanks to the density of bus routes in the city, the map is quite hard to decipher. Although bus routes are listed in the itinerary, you may have to find out about a Stay healthy few others if you plan to mix/match the order of the sights. People are very helpful in general. Check the BEST Route Food As elsewhere in India, be careful with what you eat. Finder for detailed information on the routes. The map is Outside major tourist hotels and restaurants, stay away from available at news stands. raw leafy vegetables, egg-based dressings like mayonnaise and minced meat are particularly risky. In short, stick to Tips boiled, baked, fried, or peeled goods.

For a city of its size and global importance, Mumbai is quite Water Opinions on tap water vary, but most visitors choose safe. However, as with any foreign city, it is best to err on the to stick to the bottled stuff. Large bottles of water can be pur- side of safety and act according to your local environment. chased at a very low cost. One note of caution, when buying Here are a few basic safety tips: water from street vendors, make sure the lid is sealed, there have been cases of bottles being filled with tap water, and Keep your money and credit cards safe at all times. Always sold as new. carry some cash as many places won't take cards. Do not display 500 and 1000 rupee notes in public. Fitness Numerous fitness centers exist throughout the city. Beware of pickpockets on buses and trains. Many exercise facilities and spas offer 24 hour memberships Also beware of mobile, chain, or bag snatchers who operate for visitors, and are a popular way to unwind after a long day in densely populated places, such as railway stations, busy of touring in Mumbai. roads, and traffic signals. Smog can reach unhealthful levels, especially during the dry Women traveling by train, especially on off-peak routes season. This, coupled with the summer heat and humidity, should travel in the second class where at least a few co-pas- can make spending time outdoors quite unpleasant. sengers are also found. Women (especially Westerners) should avoid crowded places, you might well get groped. Cases of men pinching or touching women are common in crowded public places, in- Get out cluding nicer nightspots. Create a scene if this does happen to you, there will be enough people around that will come to your defence. In general, in Mumbai, if you are ever wor- By train ried about your safety, make a loud scene. It is an extremely The suburban train service, mentioned above, does a good job crowded city, and somebody is always around and willing to of connecting the surrounding cities. help. Women should never ever take lifts from strangers. Western For trains to other Indian cities, the main reservation offices are women tourists should note that if they visit a disco or pub at Churchgate, Mumbai Central, and Bandra on the Western in Mumbai or India, don't take lifts or even get too friendly line and CST and Dadar on Central line. There are special tick- with strangers. You will almost certainly get conned, if not et windows and quotas for foreign tourists. For bookings and worse. Many Indian men presume that if you're foreign you tariffs on train tickets to anywhere in India from Mumbai, visit must be easy. Indian railway's website. Don't ever let an auto or taxi you are traveling in pick up any more people, or pull over before your final destination. Police can sometimes be almost as shady as criminals in By road Mumbai. At night, women should ensure if they are ever Mumbai Metropolitan Region— The Mumbai Metropolitan stopped by police, there needs to be a female police officer Region around Mumbai is fast developing into a major conur- present or they are well within their rights in demanding the bation. If you need to get to the surrounding cities of Thane, presence of a woman cop. Navi Mumbai or Kalyan, bus services are available.

18 Mumbai · Get out Mumbai TMT (Thane Municipal Transport) operates services in the Thane city and areas around it.

The MSRTC (Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation), commonly known as ST, operates services from selected points in the city to the extended suburbs. From Dadar, services to Navi Mumbai and Panvel and from Borivali to Thane being the most prominent. Numerous other important routes are al- so covered in the MMR (Mumbai Metropolitan Region) by the MSRTC.

NMMT (Navi Mumbai Municipal Transport) operates services in Navi Mumbai Area, and a few points around. They also have services from in Greater Mumbai.

KDMT (Kalyan Dombivali Municipal Transport) operates in the Kalyan-Dombivali Area with a few connections to Navi Mum- bai.

Another option is to to book bus tickets online from Redbus website which has tied up with a number of large private bus operators all over India.

By sea

Raigad, district of Maharashtra lies just south of Mumbai. It is famous for its beaches and forts. You can get there by road or by ferry from Mumbai. The important ferry routes are:

Ferry Wharf, , Mora (). Ferry Wharf, Mazagaon, Rewas (near Mandwa). These are in the budget range. Gateway of India, Rewas. Fast boats and Catamarans oper- ated by private operators. Service approximately every two hours, suspended during the monsoon season, i.e. May-Oct. From Rewas, take a bus or car to .

By air

Lots of nearby destinations can be reached by short flights: Goa, Ahmedabad, Karachi and Rajkot, to name a few.

19 Useful info · Sunrise/Sunset Useful info

Useful info

Useful info

Sunrise/Sunset

Sun will rise at 06:46:49 and will set at 17:59:45 in local time.

Passport and Visa

Passport required Return ticket required Visa required Australian Yes No Yes British Yes No Yes Canadian Yes No Yes Other EU Yes No Yes USA Yes No Yes

Passports:

To enter India, a passport valid for at least 190 days, and with at least two blank pages, is required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.

Visas:

Visas for India are required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.

Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements for India.

Visa note:

Certain parts of the country have been designated protected or restricted areas that require special permits and, in some cases, prior government authorisation. Intent to visit a specific restricted region should be indicated when applying for a visa and a permit will be granted to visit that region only.

It is advised that applicants apply for the special permit for restricted areas when they enter India by visiting the FRRO (Foreign Regional Registration Office) which have offices in all major Indian airports and cities.

An additional form must be completed but there is no fee for a restricted area permit. Passengers are advised to check with the tourist board for up-to-date information before departure.

Application forms must be filled in completely, and with as much detail as possible, otherwise the application may be rejected and a new application only allowed after three months have passed.

Types and cost:

Tourist visa: £32 (multiple-entry; up to six months); £52 (multiple-entry; up to one year).

Business visa: £57 (up to six months) £82 (up to one year); £162 (more than one year).

Transit visa: £17 (single/double-entry).

Restricted/protected area permit: £22.

Prices for certain other nationals vary, and nationals are advised to contact the embassy to check cost.

Note: All visa applications are subjected to a non-refundable £9.24 VFS service charge.

Validity:

Tourist visas are valid for six months, or one year for multiple entry.

20 Useful info · Emergency numbers Useful info Transit visas are valid for maximum stays of three days within 15 days of issue.

Business visas are valid for six months, one year, or up to two years for multipl-entry.

Note: Visas are valid from the date of issue.

Application to:

Embassy or high commission (or consular section at embassy or high commission).

For UK nationals, there are also Indian Visa Application Centres in London, Hayes, Birmingham, Cardiff, Manchester, Glasgow and Edinburgh.

Working days:

All visa applications in the UK now have to be file online at http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk.

After the mandatory electronic filing of visa applications, applicants are asked to submit printed copies of their applications, photos, passports and fees to respective Indian Visa Application Centres (IVACs).

Processing times vary at the sole discretion of the High Commission of India and its Consulates in the UK, and some applications may take longer than others to get processed.

It is wise to confirm travel plans only after obtaining a visa for India.

Estimates of processing times in the UK under normal circumstances:

(a) applications submitted in London, Birmingham and Edinburgh will take minimum two to three working days to get processed;

(b) applications submitted in Manchester, Cardiff and Glasgow will take a minimum of five to seven working days - these times may differ for other nationals;

If the High Commission or the Consulate General requires an applicant to attend an interview, the India Visa Application Centre will contact the applicant and inform the date and time of the interview accordingly.

Emergency numbers

Police: 100 or 2611 Medical: 102,1298,108,112,2611 Fire: 101 or 2611

Notes: Chennai Traffic Police – 103. Delhi Traffic Police – 1095. Kolkata Traffic Police – 1073. 112. Bangalore uses both 108 and 100. There is no national emergency number, but 108 is used in many states.

21 Maps · Map index Maps

Maps

Maps

Map index

22 Maps · A0 Maps

A0

23 Maps · A1 Maps

A1

24 Maps · A2 Maps

A2

25 Maps · B0 Maps

B0

26 Maps · B1 Maps

B1

27 Maps · B2 Maps

B2

28 Maps · C0 Maps

C0

29 Maps · C1 Maps

C1

30 Maps · C2 Maps

C2

31 References · References

References Reasonable care has been taken in creating this personalized travel guide by combining information from the sources identified

References under the section 'references'. However, the information is provided 'as is' and there is no warranty about the information in the guide being accurate, complete or up to date. To the maximum extent permitted under applicable law, all liability arising from the use of this guide will be denied. Verifying critical information (like visas, health and safety) before you travel is recommended.

Mumbai data is from Wikitravel, urls: – http://www.wikitravel.com This page was last edited at 11:57, on 8 July 2011 by Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Based on work by Anushree Goutam Ringne, Ryan Holliday, Neal and amey ambade, Wikitravel user(s) Zepppep, Haleth, Burmesedays and Neil120996, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

City info data is from Wikipedia, urls: – http://www.wikipedia.com Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License; additional terms may apply. See Terms of use for details. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.

Events data is from Eventful, urls: – www.eventful.com

Weather data is from Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation yr.no, urls: – http://www.yr.no/place/India/Maharashtra/Mumbai/

Sunset data is from Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation yr.no, urls: – http://www.yr.no/place/India/Maharashtra/Mumbai/

Currency data is from Xavier Finance Api, urls: – http://finance.xaviermedia.com/

Maps data is from Yahoo Local Maps, OpenStreetMap, Qype, urls: – http://maps.yahoo.com – http://www.openstreetmap.org – http://www.qype.com

32 Notes

33 Notes

34