WINTER 2008 OF THE SPECIES

Technoluxe When luxury goes digital

Recession style Adversity & understated chic

Glamour me up 2 04

Editorial contents www..co.uk © Clinique Laboratories, LLC

Hello, and welcome to the latest issue of Female of the Species, Trendspotting we hope it finds you well. Glamour me up 06 Is there a doctor in the house? 11 As 2008 draws to a close, we can perhaps finally take a moment to pause for breath and reflect on what has been a truly remarkable year. Inside edge We are living in unprecedented times: the economic crisis has swallowed In the eye of the beholder 12 up seemingly indomitable financial institutions and even driven whole Features countries to the wall. Yet walking down Madison Ave just down from The virtual garden fence 16 ELC’s HQ, the throngs of shoppers heavily laden with purchases belie TGI net: women on the web 18 the many media stories of people staying home and spending less. Essays So, what does happen to women’s attitudes to spending money on Hems down and at the ready? 20 the nicer things in life in times of economic downturn? On page 16, TechnoLuxe: reaching out to the Pippa Goodman from the Future takes us through their luxury consumer with digital media 22 view on the beauty market: is it a case of style in the face of adversity? The man in the mirror 24 What she really wants 26 As we all know, women, a dynamic and lucrative audience, now Spotlight represent a driving force in today’s society. The female of the species Russian dolls 28 are a powerful economic engine worth over $5 trillion that can no longer be ignored by advertisers or swept up in the net of mass broadcast Last words messaging. Understanding how to effectively use digital media to engage The age of the female 31 with luxury, and Internet-savvy, female consumers should be at the core Buzzmeter: magazines 32 of future media plans. To that end, Microsoft Advertising commissioned 12 Snapshots of Christmas shopping 34 a survey across London, New York, Paris and Tokyo to get to the very heart of how affluent consumers engage with luxury brands online. Read their fascinating findings on page 18. PAGE 300mm x 234mm PAGE ??TH APRIL 2008 2188

Finally, how do you tackle your Christmas shopping each year? Size

Are you full of ideas for what to buy your loved ones, or does it fill Our Ref you with panic? Do you shop sensibly over a few months, or as I’m Insertion afraid I have often been guilty of, do you find yourself in stores on Christmas Eve desperately searching for that perfect last minute gift? We end this issue with some light-hearted insights into this annual More than minerals, chore – or pleasure. We hope you enjoy! perfection and the promise of great skin. Wishing you a very Happy Christmas and best wishes for a prosperous and healthy New Year. We have greatly enjoyed and been inspired by working with you in 2008, and are looking Guaranteed. forward to an even more successful 2009. Receive a special treat, free* with your purchase. Visit Clinique in April for your GRAZIA MAGAZINE CLINIQUE ALMOST POWDER MAKEUP complimentary Foundation Fitting Editor Title Best Sally Stillman With new Almost Powder Makeup SPF 15 skin looks, feels happier. with a Clinique Expert. Client [email protected]

Long-wear formula helps keep pores out of trouble. Publication Plus, with any Clinique foundation Contributors Antioxidants and SPF protect skin. All this, or your money back. purchase receive a 7-day supply of Jean-Etienne Griveau Can a powder change your life? Find out. [email protected] Clinique Take The Day Off in the Clinique. Dermatologist Tested. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free. formula of your choice.* Maylis Campet-Crassard [email protected] *One per client, while stocks last.

Graphic design | art direction Mark Richardson Peter Thomson [email protected] Managing Director Images M2M International corbis.com | gettyimages.co.uk | alamy.com T: +44 (0)20 8222 6612 F: 6919 West Point 36/37 Warple Way London W3 0RG Way 36/37 Warple Point West 06

In the space of just two years, Glam Media has grown to become the US’s largest women’s online brand with 23 million users, overtaking former queen iVillage. What’s interesting about Glam Media is that it is a curator, rather than a creator, of content.

Tapping into the concept of social networking, Glam Media has built an online advertising network from over 600 sites that are owned and created by 400 independent bloggers and publishers, marrying reach with premium content.

It’s good news for advertisers because it’s an opportunity to target the increasing number of women who are visiting hundreds of different websites, rather than just clicking on the big portals. Lipstick shade shown: Red-y to Wear. www.clinique.co.uk Clinique Wear. Laboratories,© to Lipstick Red-yshown:shade LLC Glamour me up

Steven Appleyard, OMG’s International Trend Scout, Networks are becoming increasingly critical because even the biggest online brands don’t reach much of the audience most of the time. In contrast, Glam delves into the glamorous world of Glam Media, an Media is focused on the growth of users visiting hundreds of websites rather online ad network with a difference that combines than users just visiting the big portals like AOL. ISSUE 10/8 OF COPY REPEAT premium content with reach. Yet online advertising networks have traditionally had a bad reputation as the wholesale bulk buy for budget sites not strong enough in their own right. They’re regarded as remnant space filled with dancing monkeys.

Glam Media is different. It’s the marriage of reach and premium content. Its uniqueness lies in the way it carefully selects the best blogs focused around fashion, style and entertainment in order to attract the right audience and creams off the best content for its platform. By focusing on a network, Glam only creates a very small proportion of the content it presents to its female audience.

A networked economy

Crucially, Glam Media is also a product of the networked economy. It grows 286mm x 232mm PAGE 5TH OCTOBER 2008 2839 by helping others grow. It finds good blogs and creates a relationship with them,

pulling the best content onto the central Glam hub (glam.com). It sells ads on Size its pages and then on the outside blogs, sharing revenue with the bloggers. Our Ref It’s supporting a community of female bloggers to create content by women Insertion for women. Many of these blogs would not be able to sell ads themselves without the support of a wider network like Glam Media.

Glam Media was launched in September 2005 during New York Fashion Week. The founder and chairman, Samir Arora, has said he wanted to replicate the concept of glossy magazines, “What would it take for advertisers to act on the internet as they act in traditional print?”, he asked. One of his first recruits to the start-up was Carl Portale, former publisher of Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. Glam.com sprinkles magazine-style features on style, entertainment and fashion, High on colour, long on comfort. with blog postings on the latest shoes and celebrity gossip. It also includes Glam Space, a social network with 500,000 users. New High Impact™ Lip Colour SPF 15 wears beautifully for up to 8 hours. YOU MAGAZINE CLINIQUE LIP COLOUR HIGH IMPACT

A glamorous Google? Title Jarvis describes Glam as an ad network similar to Google. While Google gets Lips enjoy every minute of dressed-up colour. Client almost half its revenue from its network rather than its site, Glam gets 60-70% Publication of its revenue from sites it does not create. In 20 highly moisturising shades that continually smooth, soften, comfort. Helps protect from UVA/UVB, too. Have it all. But Glam is more selective than Google, because it is also a content network. In March 2008, Glam Media had 64.4 million global unique visitors and a partnership with 500 publishers. In the US, Glam Media reaches one in 10 New High Impact Lip Colour SPF 15. women over the age of 18 across the country.

In the US, Glam Media Its incredible success across the US suggests that Glam Media will be making waves in your country soon. Since the beginning of the year the network has been working to establish a foothold in the UK, Germany, France and reaches one in 10 women Japan. In the UK, it joined forces with Shiny Media, an online publisher whose blogs include catwalkqueen.tv, shoewawa.com and hippyshopper.com. over the age of 18. Watch this space. T: +44 (0)20 8222 6612 F: 6919 West Point 36/37 Warple Way London W3 0RG Way 36/37 Warple Point West

Effet immédiat*. Is there a Tri-Aktiline est un doctor in the house? combleur qui lisse instantanément les rides. Il s’utilise Wander down to a branch of , or Creating ‘stars’ out of dermatologists quickly autant de fois the beauty section of any department store, became as powerful and attractive a sell as an que vous voulez and you could be forgiven for thinking you on-target celebrity endorsement. An equally strong had accidentally stumbled into a pharmacy. selling point for these brands was the notion of dans la journée, The trend for Dr-branded beauty products exclusivity. When introduced to Europe in 2004, has reached fever pitch in the last few products were distributed through elite beauty après le bureau, years, with an abundance of them filling channels only. Brands like Stri-Vectrin-SD or Dr Brandt were exclusively launched at Sephora in avant un rendez- the shelves. Names such as Dr Sebagh France, Italy and Spain while the admittedly mass- dominate, and Dr-products have also market Boots handled the exclusive retailing of vous... chaque fois appeared as sub-brands of bigger names, Tri-Aktiline in UK, and Douglas had the Tri-Aktiline que vous voulez such as Dr Weil with Estée Lauder’s own business in Germany. ‘Dr Brands’ remain key . Here, M2M’s Jean-Etienne Griveau revenue earners for these retailers, representing paraître plus jeune. puts this trend under the microscope. 10% of the turnover of Sephora in France with Tri-Aktiline and StriVectin-SD constants in Sephora’s Top 10 best sellers list.

The appliance of science and medical Measuring the media spend of the ‘Dr Brands’ ‘endorsement’ is a logical fit with beauty, even can be difficult as the share of co-op advertising if occasionally the crossover has less straightforward with beauty retailers is substantial. But spending beginnings. For example, it was purely by chance they are. In Europe G5, the media spend of the that the American Laboratory Klein-Becker three key players (StriVectin, Tri-Aktiline, Murad) discovered that its simple cream to treat stretch increased nineteen fold between 2004 and 2007, marks was a miracle worker on wrinkles. This is from a base of $220,000 in 2004 to $4,252,000 how StriVectin-SD was launched in 2002 and in 2007. became one of the top sellers over the last 24h/24 years, with the controversial “Better than Botox?” The ‘Cosmeceuticals’ business really appears to campaign. Although a StriVectin-SD serum retails have hit a strong chord with today’s consumers. www.sephora.fr for up to $200, it was a huge success with Across Europe, the total business was valued at $M millions of units sold per year across the world. 4,041 in 2006 by Datamonitor and should reach 7j/7 more than US$M 5,000 in 2011. New ‘Dr’ products This overt use of science-as-a-sell helped kick-start appear on the shelves of Sephora seemingly the phenomenon of what can collectively be called on a daily basis. ‘Home Skin Lab / Dr Pastorek’ the ‘Dr Brands’, part of the wider ‘Cosmeceuticals’ (taken over by Coty earlier this year) was launched trend. Early pioneers include Dr Murad (hydration), exclusively in French Sephora stores this Autumn Dr Brandt (green tea), Dr Perricone (Omega 3), in exclusivity and is already in the top three of the Dr Pat Wexler and Dr Sebagh. The buzz quickly stores’ best sellers. So is there a doctor in the drew the attention of major groups with house? Increasingly the answer is ‘yes’.’ Estée Lauder, L’Oréal, Proctor & Gamble and all entering the field.

StriVectin-SD was launched in 2002 and became one of UNIQUEMENT CHEZ the top sellers over the last years, with the controversial “Better than Botox?” campaign. 12

3283 COVER bis 25/11/08 16:04 Page 1 HAFIBA 16:06:18 Novembre 25, 2008 ELLD3283P001.pdf I am a huge fan of Estée PARANO MENSONGES In the eye of COUPS BAS Lauder, as we all are at QUAND DIVORCER Elle.Their Advanced Night REND FOU

ELwww.elle.fr lE the beholder Repair and Re-Nutriv NOUVEAU LOOK INTERVIEW NOUVELLE VIE CARLA BRUNI-SARKOZY LA MÉTAMORPHOSE DE Corps are constants in “L’HEURE EST VENUE GWYNETH Our man in Paris, Jean-Etienne Griveau, caught ELLE DE M’ENGAGER ” PALTROW my bathroom cabinet. up with Erin Doherty, editor at French Elle, to get 3283 1 N° PURS BIJOUX the beauty journalist’s insider’s guide to what LE LUXE

er LES DONT ON RÊVE makes for a classic brand, the products to look DÉCEMBRE 2008 50 out for, and the benefits of having a muse. RHUME FEMMES COMMENT ENFIN S’EN DÉBARRASSER JEG Erin, let’s talk about cosmetics, products and brands. LES MIEUX HITCHCOCKIEN What are the indispensable products for you? Which products FLOU, DANSEUSE have managed to transcend ‘fads’ to become timeless classics? HABILLÉES LE CHIGNON NOTRE PALMARÈS 2008 C’EST CANON! Erin I am a huge fan of Estée Lauder, as we all are at Elle. Their NOTRE MODE INES DE LA FRESSANGE Advanced Night Repair and Re-Nutriv Corps are constants in my ET SA FILLE NINE D’EMPLOI bathroom cabinet. I also can’t live without Bio performance by GLAMOUR EN HÉRITAGE ENQUÊTE , Multi-activ Jour from , and a range of products ENFANTS LES MEILLEURS LE SPERME EST-IL from what is perhaps a less-known brand, Joelle Ciocco. SITES DE JOUETS EN DANGER? Products that once you discover them, you can’t believe you

survived without them before are what makes them timeless. www.elle.fr ASTUCIEUX DES IDÉES DÉCO À PIQUER AUX RESTOS HEBDOMADAIRE. 1er DÉCEMBRE 2008 JEG As a beauty journalist, you must receive a constant deluge of C&',*.#)(.)#<0(")& E Erin Doherty new products to review. From the many new products out there, FRANCE MÉTROPOLITAINE 2,30 ¼. DOM avion 5 ¼. BEL 2,50 ¼. CH 4,90 FS. A 4,20 ¼. ALG 370 DA. AND 2,30 ¼. CDN $ 5.50. D 4,20 ¼. ESP 3,50 ¼. FIN 5,50 ¼. GB £ 2.85. ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 3:HIKLQE=]UWXUW:?d@m@i@d@k; what are the latest innovations that have particularly impressed you? GR 4,40 . IRL 4,40 . ITA 3,50 . LUX 2,50 . MAR 32 DH. NC 1 200 F. CFP. NL 4,20 . POLY. FR 1 400 F. CFP.PORT cont 3,50 . TUN 4,20 DT. USA $ 5.50. Editor . French Elle

Erin Chanel are doing some great things with their exclusive 3281 COVER 10/11/08 18:02 Page 1 3282 COVER TAUTOU OK 18/11/08 15:33 Page 1 range – a great example of a classic brand continuing HAFIBA 18:04:09 Novembre 10, 2008 ELLD3281P001.pdf HAFIBA 15:35:10 Novembre 18, 2008 ELLD3282P001.pdf to innovate, as is the Escale à Portofino from Dior. In terms of skincare, all products from Novexpert and Vegeticals are really hitting the mark. And with make-up, it’s all about the eyes: Mascara Exceptionnel from Chanel and Phénomen’eyes from MODE INJECTION BEAUTÉ, DÉCO OU CRÈME Givenchy are outstanding. L’ACIDE HYALURONIQUE 40 STAR DE JEG Beauty advertising has a solid reputation for fabulous PLAISIRS L’ANTI-ÂGE photography and stunning creatives. In fact, research has SNOBS ET PAS CHERS shown that readers of fashion and beauty magazines value www.elle.fr the presence of beauty advertising in the magazines they read, www.elle.fr   and believe it adds to the overall reading experience. Which SANTÉ COUP AUDREY campaigns do you think have worked particularly well recently? FAUT-IL INTERDIRE DE JEUNE TA U TO U LES GÉLULES ON A TESTÉ LE PEELING MODE REINE DE LA POUR MAIGRIR ? VITE, UNE CHEMISE MODE Erin I love Chanel’s perfume campaigns and the Miss Dior Cherie TV MAISON DE BÛCHERON ! ELLE commercial with the inspiring Sofia Coppola worked incredibly well, I think. MODE ELLE LE MYTHE MAKE-UP ET COIFFURE °38 7NOVEMBRE 2008 3281 17 N° AMÉRICAIN NOVEMBRE 2008 3282 24 N° COMMENT LES HOMMES JEG With the resurgence of Claudia Schiffer as Karl Lagerfeld’s muse, NOUS AIMENT what is your journalistic viewpoint on the value of having muses? MAKE-UP MISEZ TOUT SUR LES YEUX Erin It’s quite simple: a great opportunity to bag cover stories! BOOSTEZ SPÉCIAL CUISINE JEG And finally, which magazines do you think are approaching beauty VOTRE LOOK from an interesting angle currently? LE BIO LES DÉTAILS QUI NE COÛTENT RIEN ET QUI CHANGENT TOUT ! Erin Allure, Elle France (of course!), and Elle UK under the leadership C’EST BON LES RECETTES FACILES TEST BOULOT of Lorraine Candy is going in a great direction also. ENFANTS, FAMILLE... LES ASTUCES GOURMANDES -  LES PRODUITS EN FAITES VOUS QUI CHANGENT TOUT TROP ? SPÉCIAL CADEAUX TÉMOIGNAGES MARIEZ-LES ! LES BONNES CES FEMMES QUI ACCEPTENT PETITE ROBE NOIRE ET D’ÊTRE TROMPÉES IDÉES A PIQUER COULEURS FLASH AUX PEOPLE OÙ SONT LES OBAMA TEXAS FRANÇAIS ? L’ÊTAT OÙ MÊME LES PROFS www.elle.fr ENQUÊTE SUR LA www.elle.fr SONT ARMÉS BOURGEOISIE NOIRE

C&',*.#)(.(#<0(")& E HEBDOMADAIRE. 24 NOVEMBRE 2008 FRANCE MÉTROPOLITAINE 2,30 ¼. DOM avion 5 ¼. BEL 2,50 ¼. CH 4,90 FS. A 4,20 ¼. ALG 370 DA. AND 2,30 ¼. CDN $ 5.50. D 4,20 ¼. ESP 3,50 ¼. FIN 5,50 ¼. GB £ 2.85. GR 4,40 ¼. IRL 4,40 ¼. ITA 3,50 ¼. LUX 2,50 ¼. MAR 32 DH. NC 1 200 F. CFP. NL 4,20 ¼. POLY. FR 1 400 F. CFP. PORT cont 3,50 ¼. TUN 4,20 DT. USA $ 5.50. 3:HIKLQE=]UWXUW:?d@c@s@c@k;

16 the virtual garden fence

The feminisation of brands Jo Rigby, Research Director, facebook_logo.eps EMEA, Omnicom Media Group, Avon_logo.eps Ding dong... Avon calling The growing influence of women is trickling into Womenomics the way brands communicate with consumers. presents a fresh perspective on In the last year, as many as 9% of British Many of today’s success stories can be linked to – 39% of British women earn more the new media landscape, arguing women have taken a second job to help the feminisation of brands. Consider the warmer than their partner. (Egg) that the much hyped social protect their families from the impending tone of voice of the rejuvenated British retailer networking and word of mouth credit crunch, according to the Department M&S, or the way that Innocent drinks chats with – By 2020 53% of millionaires will be women. phenomenon has been alive of Work and Pensions. Interestingly, female its customers like a friend. Both these brands are By 2025, women will control 60% of private business models like Avon have always built applauded for the way they converse with their wealth in the UK. (Censor Economic and and well within women’s lives their success around the concept of flexible customers, but it has not yet been acknowledged Business Research) for decades. working for employees. This is an area that that this approach might also be a more feminine traditional business models are struggling to way of doing business. – Over 100 women are on The Sunday Times implement despite the demand from both Rich List, which requires a personal fortune men and women for more elastic working Similarly, a friendly, sharing tone of voice has For men, seeking advice and sharing experiences of £70m. For the most part this isn’t inherited arrangements. enabled Innocent, the independent healthy- has traditionally been seen as a sign of weakness. or their husband’s wealth – 90% comes from Contrary to popular belief, social networking The feminisation of society drinks company, to clearly differentiate itself from Men around the world are three times more likely their own business or activity. Ten years ago and word of mouth are nothing new. We’ve It began with the feminisation of society, a growing Avon ladies are self-employed. They receive competition and attract an enviably loyal band of to commit suicide than women – men traditionally there were only 30 women listed. been seeing these forms of communications for and recognised trend that sees women grow in 20-25% of the value of the goods they sell. consumers. Innocent had its first ever AGM or ‘A lack a sense of community and are unable to share decades – among women. What’s new is that influence in the workplace and in society at large They can also recruit other representatives, Grown Up Meeting’ in April of this year and served problems. Gradually this perception is shifting, and – One in six businesses in London is now these communications models are now fuelled by with increased spending power and an increased and if they do so, they earn between 2% and cup cakes made from its smoothies to attendees. the ‘metrosexual male’, celebrities such as David majority female-owned, compared with one technology and being adopted by men. role in decision making. 12% of what their recruits sell. Internationally, Over 100 customers attended, after successfully Beckham, has signalled a move towards gender in 10 three years ago – and they also employ they earned £1.5bn last year. Avon ladies winning a place in a draw. More importantly, they neutrality and less rigid views of masculinity. more women than their male counterparts. Traditional female business models like There has been a big rise in female entrepreneurs. buy the products at a 20-25% discount, voted on what Innocent should do next as a What does this mean for communication planning? (London Annual Business Survey) Weightwatchers, Avon or Tupperware hold Findings from the latest London Annual Business deliver the orders, collect the cash and business, thereby generating a genuine sense Society’s shift towards gender neutrality means some clues to discussions around the new Survey show that one in six businesses in London is pocket the difference. of community. women and men are beginning to share one – The number of women-owned businesses media landscape. They’re all examples of a now majority female-owned, compared with one in another’s characteristics. Men now have permission is growing 60% faster than those run by men. female business , that is to say, a business 10 three years ago. The number of women-owned The top Avon saleswomen view the business Social networking to do what women have been doing for years. (Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce 2006) that focuses on the concept of community businesses is growing 60% faster than those run by as a full-time job. They can sign up other One of the biggest impacts on the internet has As do women. For example, according to FIFA, and recommendation. men (Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce 2006). reps, taking a small slice of their sales, and been the explosion of social networking, a concept women’s football has become the fastest growing – 77 UK FTSE 100 companies have women can earn substantial salaries. But for most of that is totally in tune with the female psyche. As sport in the world. In 1921, the British Football directors on their boards, compared with Inspired by Tupperware parties, Jacqueline Needless to say, women have moved from the reps, their Avon income is not big money. Cunningham and Roberts write in Inside Her Pretty Association banned the women’s game due to 57 in 2001. Gold, the CEO of Ann Summers, launched a similar the margins to the mainstream as consumers. An average Avon lady works four hours a Little Head, women are motivated by the need to fears of its impact on their reproductive systems. concept for the sex shop chain in 1981, which Women’s spending power has increased by over week earning £60 from each brochure. create communities to work together to create This could offer a potent sponsorship opportunity helped to revitalise its fortunes. The Ann Summers 50% over the last 20 years. In the UK, there are now Utopia. While it’s easy to think of social networking for brands unable to break into the saturated Party Plan has 7,500 self-employed party organisers more women millionaires aged 25-44 than men. The company has annual sales of more purely as the likes of Facebook and MySpace, men’s football leagues. who hold over 4,000 parties for more than 30,000 By 2020, 53% of millionaires will be women and than $8bn (£4bn) generated by more than women around the world have long been building women a week. “Not bad for a sales channel you by 2025, women will own 60% of the nation’s five million Avon ladies in more than 100 online communities to drive political, social and Gender neutrality means everyone shops for Brand chatter thought was stuck in the past,” says Gold. personal wealth. countries. In the UK, 95% of Avon’s revenue economic needs. everything nowadays, yet historically shopping While it’s debatable how much brand chatter is generated by Avon ladies, who circulate was in the female domain. Lines have blurred. goes on within broad social networking sites like In the US today, women make 80% of consumer 18 brochures a year to friends and clients One of the most prolific social networking sites This has led to an explosion in word of mouth Facebook and MySpace, they are part of the tupperware_screen_grab.png buying decisions, including those for traditionally and then take orders. in the UK is Mumsnet, created by three full-time across the sexes. However, there’s still a critical currency on specialist parenting sites like Mumsnet, male products including cars, electronics, computers mums. (See essay by Mumsnet founder on page role for broadcast channels to get consumers Babycentre and Raisingkids. At the beginning of the and financial services. They account for 66% of all Customers choose purchases from a 12.) Mumsnet’s rapid growth has created a huge into shopping mode. year, Woolworths was slammed by parents in the home-computer purchases and 80% of all health- brochure; in the UK a new brochure is community which exerts incredible power, from online chat room of raisingkids.co.uk for stocking care services. They carry 76 million credit cards, eight produced every three weeks and 600m reviewing baby-care products to lobbying the Men are now joining communities like Facebook bedroom furniture for young girls called ‘Lolita’. The million more than men, according to Martha Barletta, in 25 languages are distributed worldwide government. In the US, Moms Rising has been and MySpace. Facebook has over 63 million active connection with Vladimir Nabokov’s 1955 novel author of Marketing to Women. In Japan, women annually, offering 7,500 products. formed to fight for equality and rights for mothers users and has added an average 250,000 new about a man in love with a 12-year-old-girl was make or influence two-thirds of car purchases. in the workplace, meeting on and offline, a users a day since January. And men have become regarded as “unbelievably bad taste” by the online Today over 40% of Avon UK customers are common trait for female networking sites. avid readers of men’s lifestyle magazines, a media community. over 45. Russia has just overtaken the UK that didn’t exist 10 years ago, and has grown by innocent_screen_grab.png as Avon’s fourth biggest market, after the US, Looking to history 91% from 2003-7. In 2003, 20,775,191 copies of Needless to say, their online protests reached the Brazil and Mexico. Now, Avon is focused But is this concept genuinely new? Women men’s lifestyle magazines were sold in the UK, national media and Woolworths, feigning ignorance, on , where it has already signed up traditionally sought advice and information from rising to 39,635,682 in 2007. apologised and withdrew the furniture range 350,000 ladies. each other relating to household management and immediately. Many other reputations are resurrected childcare. Having a chat over the garden fence or destroyed by chatter in online communities. Avon traces its roots back to 1886, when may be a stereotype but the concept of sharing a New York salesman, David Hall McConnell, information and views is what social networking is set up the California Perfume Company all about. It’s the garden fence gone global. and employed the company’s first direct saleswoman. The Avon name was adopted in 1928 after McConnell visited Stratford- upon-Avon. 18 Ranking of health and beauty websites | Unique visitors (000)

Ccb Paris 241 Boots Plc 627 230 Inc 238 Sephora 205 Lookfantastic 94 Ricaud 67 83 Galeries Lafayette 66 Coty Inc 72 Daniel Jouvance 48 Fragrance Direct 66 TGI net: Marionnaud 35 Supaperfume 49 Earlier this year, M2M joined forces with TGI Base female 25-54 years old . Internet usage Estée Lauder 49 women on the web Net Europa, to extend industry knowledge of the internet user across Europe. Proudly the only Source ComScore Sept 2008 Clinique 48 media network involved in this venture, we took this opportunity to add proprietary questions to explore some of the key themes in greater depth, Top 10 types of websites visited last month Affinity Internet usage allowing us to provide unique, cross-border insights into the digital space. Map or travel direction sites They search everyday use 54% 101 information on the internet 12 % Yes 16% Yes The study provides detailed insights across a Recipe sites 53% 131 Use internet broad spectrum, from location of Internet use News websites 53% 92 and ad effectiveness, to user attitude to web Male Female and e-commerce. In addition consumer habits Weather site 52% 99 on media, newspaper, property, travel, banking 87% 81% and financial sites are monitored. Price comparison site 49% 95 72% 68% Auction sites 42% 99 Here, we have explored this data and taken 90% 89% Health site 1/3 of the target visited a beauty a fresh look at how European women are 40% 131 site last month (index 174) 88% No 84% No 98% 97% interacting with the Internet. Mobile phone provider 37% 101 Gaming site 36% 96 Beauty site 33% 174

Average minutes on internet per day Audience of health and beauty websites Reasons for visiting a particular brand website Affinity

Info. search is a key reason to Base 25-54 years old Time in minutes Base 25-54 yr old females % Penetration Get more detailed information 58% 96 visit brand sites Enter a competition and sign up for a Male Female Enter a competition 31% 104 newsletter are also pretty well endorsed 44 45 Sign up for newsletter 25% 91 42 47 Play a game 19% 95 41 40 Base female 25-54 year olds . Income top 30% . Internet usage: France | Spain | Germany 56 58 Fragrance | cosmetics retail sites 8.4 4.6 12.3 13.1 3.2 Source ComScore Sept 2008 34 35 Health care retail sites 3.0 0.9 2.0 10.4 1.1 Attitudes towards blogs Attitudes towards the internet Base female 25-54 years old Base female 25-54 years old Income top 60% internet usage Income top 60% internet usage Agree Affinity Agree Affinity Internet at home vs at work I like to read other people’s views online 58% 101 It is important that I trust the websites I visit 84% 102 Social networking sites are a perfect way to 49% 105 I tend to visit the same sites when I use the internet 73% 101 Base 25-54 years old Access at home keep in touch with friends I use the internet for inspiration as well as information 68% 103 Income top 60% I value websites that allow input from their users 46% 94 Male Female Using the internet can become addictive 57% 101 People’s online opinions help me make 43% 100 Internet usage Male Female 97% 98% decisions about major purchases I read printed mags less now that I use the internet 44% 101

At home 93% 91% 79% 73% I value the opportunity to add my own content 39% 90 I prefer surfing the internet to watching TV 38% 94 to a website At work 45% 38% 91% 90% I find online video adverts more entertaining than 16% 79 other online adverts Source TGI Europa July 2008 (D . ES . FR . UK) 96% 96% Source TGI NET Europa 2008 (D . ES . FR) 20 Hems down Even the very wealthy are apparently feeling the pinch and re-assessing their priorities. and lipstick Tiffany has said it expects to see its worldwide sales decline between 13% and 20% over at the ready? the next quarter.

In the midst of a continuing global economic Against this backdrop, as recession bites, is every woman dropping her hemline and liberally applying the lipstick – two symptoms of economic hardship proposed, crisis, what happens to women’s attitudes to respectively, by 1920s American economist George Taylor and Leonard Lauder? Clothes shopping has experienced some of the biggest cut backs in the UK spending hard-earned money on looking good? so far – second only to eating out – with 22% of consumers saying they have Here, Pippa Goodman, Retail Account Director economised here in the last six months. Where women are still prepared to spend, understated chic is now the driver and it seems that they’re keen to make every with the Future Foundation, casts a mascara’d pound, euro or dollar count. eye over the beauty and fashion landscape in At the top end of the market, commentary from some of the UK industry’s these credit crunch times. leading buyers and fashion directors highlights a new popularity for classic fashion pieces that offer timeless glamour – at the same time as versatility and individuality. And conspicuous consumption sits increasingly uncomfortably ‘On the face of it, more time spent at home worrying about our finances with our new circumstances: think backlash against Sarah Palin’s reported and rising unemployment provides little cause to ‘dress up for the occasion’ $150,000 splurge on hair, makeup and clothes in the run up to the US election. – and scant cheer for the worlds of fashion and beauty. But experts have It seems the mood for ‘Assault on Pleasure’ – characterised by increasing proved themselves optimistic in the face of downturn. Indeed, in the midst energy behind formal or informal restrictions on choice and consumption – of the last global recession, in the early 1990s, it was Estée Lauder herself continues to gather momentum. who shared the view that “When things are bad, if a woman has a little perfume and a new lipstick, she feels like a queen”. More recently, Giorgio A swing in our focus to value – and longevity – for money is evident elsewhere. Armani has been reported in as saying “In a crisis, people like Sales of classic bags are up; ‘It bags’ are out. And cobblers are reinvigorating to look elegant. It feels correct.” our tired shoes and boots: James Timpson, owner of the UK shoe repair chain, has reported a 4 per cent increase in repairs in the past three months. As the shockwaves of the current financial crisis begin to impact fully on the real economy and we look to assess how women are reacting, it’s worth Women’s indulgences for themselves are starting to take a smaller, more discreet considering recent trends that have shaped our engagement with fashion and shape. Candles and spa products are doing well, as are fragrances. And, true to beauty industries. After all, personal image and striving for ‘perfection of the Leonard Lauder’s index, sales of were up 38% in the UK and US in the first body’ has become the cult of our age – for both women and men, of all ages. quarter of this year, and European sales figures also suggest a growing market too. nVision’s own research tells us nearly 40% of the UK population hate to Even the very wealthy are apparently feeling the pinch and re-assessing their step out of the front door without looking their best. Most marked in European In the early 1990s, it was Estée Where women are still prepared priorities. Tiffany has said it expects to see its worldwide sales decline between countries such as Ireland, Italy and Poland (as well as the UK), the rising 13% and 20% over the next quarter. Richemont, the world’s second largest luxury importance attached to personal appearance has only seen a counter trend Lauder herself who shared the to spend, understated chic is group and the company behind Cartier jewellery, Mont Blanc pens and Chloe, in Spain since 2004. The way we look and dress has become an increasingly reported a 2% decline in sales in October. And Hermés, which has traditionally important part of self actualisation: 52% of UK women say they like others view that “When things are bad, now the driver and it seems weathered downturns due to the enduring quality of its leather goods, particularly, to appreciate their taste and style1, and 56% say they try to adapt the way has warned the market it fears turmoil ahead. they portray themselves with different people and different circumstances2. if a woman has a little perfume that they’re keen to make every With disposable household income that, even now, is double what we had to But there are those who are determined the party will go on – or who just fancy a spend in the 1980s, the worlds of fashion, beauty and luxury have certainly and a new lipstick, she feels pound, euro or dollar count. dose of sheer escapism in the midst of all the doom and gloom. Launching Vogue’s enjoyed our attentions during the last decade of apparently carefree spending. December ‘08 ‘Fantastic’ issue, which is dedicated to ‘Fashion and Fantasy’, editor like a queen.” Alex Schulman commented: “Because it’s so inappropriate for the climate we But we mustn’t overlook influences such as the growing desire for authenticity thought it would be great to do something that was totally over the top.” and enrichment through experiences, as well as ever-stronger personal concerns around sustainability that have affected women’s shopping choices over recent And, unprecedented in previous recessions, this time round women can not years. Even before consumers really started reining in discretionary spending, only pick and choose from designer fashion at high street prices but also have 4% of women in the US turned their back on using make up regularly in the the Internet at their disposal to help them track down the very best deals. Hot on 12 months to June 20083. the heels of its range with Comme des Garçons, H&M has just announced a link up with designer Matthew Williamson for Spring and Summer ’09 collections for both women and men. Kate Moss’ latest line for Top Shop sold out in a matter of weeks in November, in the UK, while online fashion retailer ASOS continues to thrive – much to the envy of many in the market. So, while the current mood may be for more understated tones and value for money, women don’t need to turn their backs on style and designer inspiration yet...’ 22

An unexpected learning from this study is the extent to which high technology and luxury goods are linked in the Reaching out to the luxury consumer with digital media minds of the affluent.

What role does digital media currently play in Exploration Ownership reaching today’s luxury consumer, and what is its After the initial allure, lovers of luxury seek to explore, Luxury brands can extend the act of “ownership” potential? To find out, Microsoft Digital Advertising understand and authenticate the brand. By conveying to digital manifestations of the brand and brand Solutions undertook an in-depth qualitative research their heritage, authenticity and quality, luxury brands communications. The greatest advocates of these study on how affluent consumers engage with can reinforce the brand credentials. Full use of digital brands are likely to seek ownership in other ways. luxury brands. The study, conducted by UK-based advertising techniques like Silverlight can bring the Luxury brands need to welcome their customers essential research, examined the buying behaviours brand to life. Marketers also need to remember that to “the club” via a custom site for members only of 38 luxury consumers across London, New York, the in-store experience is an important part of the where they can get with exclusive offers or more Paris and Tokyo. brands’ allure so should look for ways to replicate information about product and luxury lifestyle. that experience in the virtual world.

Luxury brand Ownership Awareness Admiration Lovers of luxury generally find pleasure in engagement model seeing luxury brand advertising. So rather than focusing only on rational product benefits, Luxe Brand luxury brands need to appeal to the emotional aspects of luxury ownership. Purchase Consideration Exploration

The study found that luxury lovers are already Awareness Consideration Conclusion using the Internet to both engage with and talk Lovers of luxury actively seek out information about Luxury brands are experiential, much of An unexpected learning from this study is the Strategic guidelines for about luxury brands. Their PC Internet usage ranged their favourite brands. Advertising context matters their pleasure comes before the purchase and extent to which high technology and luxury goods from an average of 30 minutes per day to around online just as much as it matters offline. Luxury consumers want to explore luxury products are linked in the minds of the affluent. These luxury brand marketers five hours a day, and online activities surrounding marketers need to seek out environments favoured with all their senses. Lovers of luxury find enjoyment two industries indeed share know-how, stories, luxury goods range from communication, surfing, by these consumers and target them overtly as in researching, choosing and “trying on” a specific consumers and supply chains that are becoming – Create a seamless integration of the physical information, transactions, entertainment and much as possible. product. And because consumers value the increasingly similar. Phones like Vertu or Prada, and digital brand experience. creating. Unsurprisingly, younger participants of superior service and personal attention they receive the Apple store concept, ‘Swarovski-Philips,’ this study, in particular, confirmed that the Internet Admiration in store, marketers can utilize real time IM, e-mail USB keys or Bang & Olufsen are great examples – Use online multi-platform marketing activity permeates every facet of their lives. Lovers of luxury generally find pleasure in seeing query handling and personal recommendations to of this. As a light of these insights, a new segment to extend the reach and impact (and executional luxury brand advertising. So rather than focusing parallel the online retail environment. Luxury brands that can be called ‘Technoluxe’ has emerged delivery) of the offline campaign. The insights led Microsoft Advertising to develop only on rational product benefits, luxury brands also need to facilitate peer to peer consultation in the phone market and will no doubt soon a six-point luxury brand engagement model to need to appeal to the emotional aspects of luxury capitalizing on the rapidly growing social networking propagate over all over the digital marketplace. – Ensure digital marketing activity is sympathetic explain the consumer experience at different points ownership. We need to give luxury lovers something phenomenon. Consumers are already e-mailing to the core motivations of luxury consumption – of interaction with luxury brands. to talk about and share with others. Effective online product images and links to one another, taking indulgence, exclusivity and status. communications immediately involve the consumer photos on mobile devices and sending SMS through the use of techniques like dynamic rich communication prior to luxury goods purchases. – Recognize the different types of luxury consumer media displays or beautiful imagery that captures an and target them appropriately (and overtly). Consumers are already aspirational lifestyle or essence of the brand. Luxury Purchase consumers should be encouraged to download and There are three key functions luxury brands can – Seek to maximize brand engagement at every emailing product images share digital advertising communications. perform on the Internet. Direct consumers to the stage of the consumer experience. Allowing consumers to interact and personalize the appropriate retail locations (including airports), and links to one another, creative can heighten message engagement. allow for consumers to reserve items online for – Fully explore the boundaries of digital marketing subsequent in-store purchases and provide a techniques but within a culture’s acceptance of taking photos on mobile superior online purchasing experience. specific social media devices and sending SMS communication prior to luxury goods purchases. 24 In 2007, Discovery Networks EMEA / UK commissioned the most In Poland, Russia and Romania, there are cultural barriers to men actively comprehensive research study ever conducted into men aged 25-39. trying to look good, so while the male cosmetics industry is growing, it’s at a Notes from the locker room This research reached out to every corner of Europe and beyond, from slower rate than the rest of Europe. This reticence can be seen in Alexander Sweden to Romania, from Russia to France, encompassing 15 markets from Russia’s more basic grooming routine: I usually shave and clean my More image conscious than previous generations and over 12,000 young men in total. Their aim was to get under the skin of teeth, and sometimes I use cologne.” Men are very concerned with image... just like women, there’s now this hard-to-reach demographic, to understand what motivates them and this pressure to look good. Jan, 30, Netherlands what they aspire to. Here, we take a deep delve into this research to Caring Without Seeming You Care understand the role that image plays in their lives and what that means Whatever their attitude and behaviours to grooming, lads across Europe all In the past, men didn’t have much of a relationship with their bodies, for marketing personal care products to this demographic. want to retain a strong sense of masculinity. They may be susceptible to adverts but now they realize they need to take care of them. for , but they are strongly aware they don’t want to appear vain. Elisabetta Ruspini, Professor of Sociology, Italy Image Investment Vanity and appearing vain are very undesirable traits to young men. An increased awareness of their appearance permeates all areas of young The benefits and difficulties of looking good men’s lives. They now realize that looking good is advantageous for their They are attempting to tread a fine line between caring about their looks Men are trying to look younger in order to stay competitive in the careers. As Jeremy Langmead, Editor-in- Chief of UK’s Esquire Magazine while not trying too hard. “Men’s awareness of their appearance is growing, workplace. Products such as moisturizers are growing in popularity. explains, “Because the workplace is now more competitive, men feel they but the behaviours aren’t changing fundamentally,” says Henk Noort, a It is no longer considered exclusively feminine to moisturize. have to look the part in order to command respect. They know they can’t Netherlands-based psychologist and journalist. “Masculinity has to do with Deirdre McNulty, Kline, 2007, Europe ignore it. It’s investing in their career.” being cool, a bit mysterious and having a careless attitude. So while men care about their looks, they don’t want to look like they care.” You can’t look too vain, but you need to make an effort. Men aren’t Differing Daily Rituals keen to admit that they’re concerned about their appearance because With so many accessible and affordable male beauty products, it’s never Body Matters it’s a feminised area. The boundaries have to be carefully managed. been easier for men to spend time and money on looking good – though While women can fixate on certain parts of their body they feel they have an Jeremy Langmead, Editor-in-Chief, Esquire Magazine, UK not all of them are capitalizing on these opportunities. issue with, this research showed that men focus on their bodies as a whole. Therefore the principal way that men enhance their image is to workout at the The wash and go routine Young men in France, Spain and Italy are the most comfortable with elaborate gym. This has led to a blurring of men’s attitudes and behaviours surrounding I spend some time doing my hair. This is something I find important since grooming routines. They recognize the benefits and are willing and unashamed looks and health, though most experts believe the primary driver for men to it’s really frizzy otherwise. Apart from that and cutting my nails and trimming to go to great pains to achieve them. Italians tend to be the most concerned visit the gym is a vanity as opposed to health issue. my beard I tend to go as I am. Mateusz D, 30, Poland Men are very concerned with their looks. As one respondent, 30 year old Roberto says: “ isn’t my only daily ritual. I use face scrub, face cream and eye cream everyday. The need to be more conscious of their appearance has led men to take I usually just do daily hygiene – teeth brushing, showers, washing hands with image... just like I pluck my eyebrows every other day and have a hair cut every ten days.” a personal, though often private, pleasure in looking good. They want to feel as frequently as possible. I like to be clean, it makes me feel comfortable. self-confident and sexy, but they may not admit it. They are more likely to Bogdan, 34, Romania women, there’s now Young men in Sweden, the Netherlands, Germany and the UK are also talk about their grooming in terms of ‘creating the right impression’ or taking more pride in their appearance, although they are less open about ‘satisfying their partners’ desires’. Achieving this balance will become an I use a scrubbing gel for my face, but mainly because my girlfriend this pressure to look good. it than their Southern European counterparts. increasingly important goal for them. wants me to. Pierre, 27, Sweden Jan, 30, Netherlands

Looking good is no longer a female-only issue. Young men are spending more and more time and money on their looks. But being aware of their image can bring anxiety as well as pride. These days a The man in the mirror well-groomed guy needs to strike a balance between looking good and appearing vain. 26 Eight golden tips on marketing to women

Create connections Create connections with women through a variety of different touch points. TV advertising is the least important traditional media channel unless it’s placed in the right context. Suitable touch points could include a brand ambassador, a movie placement, PR editorial, aligning with a good cause or a website. These different touch points all need to add up.

Allow women to get involved Women don’t like to be talked at but talked to. Enable your consumers to talk and create something themselves through a blog or a chat forum. Or create an event or a way for them to get involved with your brand. At adidas, we’re touring the world with a yoga event, where consumers get to learn a new form of Men are from Mars, women are from Venus yoga – a hybrid of traditional yoga, martial arts and Women and men are fundamentally different, Women and men core conditioning. It works well for the brand because not just in life but as consumers too. Women people always feel better after they’ve taken part and respond to different mechanisms. While men are fundamentally have experienced something new. respond to competition and hierarchical solutions, women want to be inclusive and want to share. different, not just in life Use the right tone of voice Women are less likely to buy a new product If your brand has the right tone of voice you will be because an advert tells them to, but they will but as consumers too. able to establish a long-term connection with your if it’s recommended by a friend. consumers. These loyal customers will become your Women respond to best ambassadors as they tell their friends all about Women are strongly motivated by the aesthetics you. Niki Schilling, of a product. This is not just about painting a brand different mechanisms pink but about designing a product that looks Pay attention to detail founder of puravida, beautiful and works well. And it may sound like a than men. Aesthetic detail is essential to women consumers cliché, but women are more complex than men, and more important than marketing. For example, offers some advice meaning that brands need to delve deeper into Apple’s products are beautifully designed through- understanding what drives them. Women tend to Wyndham hotels were one of the first in the and-through, from the packaging to the headset and on marketing to be more sceptical consumers in the beginning but industry to dedicate services to female business charger. The same attention to detail could easily be once they buy into a brand they will be more loyal. travellers – with great success, over half of their applied in industries from skincare to bottled water. women. She argues guests are now women. This means it’s worth Brands that focus purely on the ABC1 male focusing on elements like women-only floors Realise that women are people that traditional demographic are missing an opportunity. While with improved security, female –oriented reading The importance of aligning your brand with a good women are unlikely to feel engaged with advertising materials and menus as well as improved beauty cause will increase in the future. Women are far advertising is alienating that targets men, research has shown that brand and clothing facilities. more likely to respond to details of a brand’s social thinking aimed at women is likely to appeal to men responsibility than men, to the extent of even buying a half of its potential too. For example, in hotels female guests do not new product. There’s a lady’s golf ball that has been a like going to the bar alone. So, some hotels have big success in the world of golf, not because it’s pink market by failing to created a ‘protected’ corner with books and an or because it’s tailored towards women, but because armchair where women can sit discreetly and work it supports the Breast Cancer Foundation. understand what on their laptop. What’s interesting is that it’s not just female guests who are drawn to these areas in hotel Be honest and authentic makes women tick. bars; men like them too. So although marketing to Women are very sensitive to marketing hype. It’s men doesn’t work for women, marketing to women important for brands to be honest in what they do can work for men too. and say. While a small amount of exaggeration is OK, don’t try to pretend something is better than it is. Often the best way of gaining credibility is through There are two vital statistics that every advertiser Marketing to women in one easy viewing endorsement from spokeswomen, whether they’re should know about women. First, that 91% of Sex and the City, the TV series and film, is a celebrities or real people. Honesty and authenticity women think that advertisers don’t understand wonderful lesson in how to market to women. also means that brands must do what they’re good them. Second, that women are responsible for 83% Not only is this a show that understands women at. Even better is to do something only your brand of household spending, including products like TVs and understands that women can love brands, can do. and cars. There is clearly a huge potential for those it’s also a good example of product placement that brands prepared to properly understand female works. The Manolo Blahnik shoe brand was built Use more female creatives consumers and target them more effectively. in the footsteps of SATC heroine Carrie Bradshaw There need to be more female creatives in advertising and the brands that clambered to feature in the film, agencies and more female marketing directors in Women’s increased spending power and from Vera Wang to Apple Mac, realised its potency. client companies to ensure brands have a detailed influence over consumer decisions traditionally insight into women. regarded to be in the male domain mean that Female consumers take note of real women brands that fail to target this crucial demographic that they can relate to and aspire to, they want to Respect digital media are missing a commercial opportunity. Marketing know what brands they wear and use. Dove’s Real Women like to compare. The internet is a practical, to women isn’t just about advertising, it must Beauty campaign is a good example of a brand that core tool for women. Female consumers frequently trickle through to design and innovation too. understood the importance of using real women and use the internet as a research tool to compare creating believable spokeswomen for its advertising. brands before they buy. Help your consumers in their Some brands in traditionally male sectors are already research, even if it means helping them to check out benefiting from marketing to women. There are Interest in other women also drives the fascination other brands. the car brands that specifically target women like with gossip and celebrity magazines. However, the Ford Ka or the European company that has the celebrity world is beginning to fade around the And finally... created a tyre-changing kit for women. In Germany, edges. Brands that want to sponsor an individual, So remember, marketing to women is not just about DIY retailer Hornbach, noticed that women were need to ensure they are associated with celebrities pink-coloured phones. The brands that do best big shoppers in its stores. It created a series of who are successful in their own right, not just are the ones that make life easier for women, and pamphlets targeting women with instructions on footballers’ wives. This is one reason why there is make them feel better about themselves, whether how to perform different DIY tasks, from tiling a so much hype surrounding film star Angelina Jolie it’s the Apple iPhone organising our social life, adidas bathroom to installing a light with great success. – not only is she the mother of a big family, she’s a teaching a new form of yoga or Dove making us feel philanthropist and humanitarian worker too. normal again. 28 Russian women are

far more likely to spend EEEB=;4=@21=; than save. The idea of investing for the future is a new concept.

Russia is undoubtedly an area of boom and growth. Private consumption is growing year-on-year and annual disposable income is rising at a similar rate. Russian ad spend hit a new high of $9.3 billion last year, one of the few markets that has doubled ad spend in the last four years. So in this thriving environment it is no surprise that women in cities are seen as significant consumers.

The Russian elite have huge spending power. For example, Elena Baturina was named in the Forbes Top 100 richest people in Russia and is the 279th richest person in the world. She is a self-made billionaire with a fortune of $2.3bn. The wife of Moscow Mayor Yuri Luzhkov, Baturina founded Inteko in 1991, which has grown to become the city’s largest construction firm.

Big spenders Russian women are far more likely to spend than save. The idea of investing for the future is a new concept. This stems back to the Soviet system which took care of people, leading to the mentality that there was so need to save for a rainy day. Although that train of thought still seems to hold, there are signs that it is slowly changing. On the other hand there isn’t much to invest in that is reliable.

For example, a woman in the US, with an average income, will probably invest her money in some kind of savings plan or pay off a mortgage on a property. In stark contrast, a Russian woman with an equivalent income is likely to buy a designer dress.

Russian city women are very conscious about their appearance and try to look good all the time. Their wardrobe depends on their income level but women have a true sense of style and pride – even if they are just taking out the trash.

Designer labels are important. Many women in Moscow and St Petersburg wear the real thing, with plenty wearing fake copies. It’s important that the Russian brand is visible, although some of the very elite are buying luxury brands that are less conspicuous.

International brands are popular choices for Russian women in categories like cars, clothing, white goods and cosmetics. However, women are loyal to Russian brands when it comes to buying food. There is also a strong belief dolls that Russians should buy Russian goods to strengthen their industry. Can I help you madam? Splurging on designer clothes, looking good When Russian women shop they demand high standards of customer when taking out the rubbish, Russian women may service. More than 75% won’t buy something in a shop if the service is poor, be independent but they expect men to carry their and won’t return to this shop. They also often hold products in their hands heavy bags, explains Kelly Leichenko. and smell them before purchasing. When it comes to technology, most women prefer simple and reliable products. Some 71.2% use a mobile phone, while just 6.2% of Russian women use the internet several times a week. While well over half (54.7%) say they pay attention to TV ads, just 9.6% pay attention to internet ads. Traditional marketing channels such as TV, radio, newspapers and magazines are the most effective way of reaching women in this market.

An endless steppe There are vast differences between urban and rural women, particularly in terms of income and education levels. The elite group with high earnings and matching spending power comprises a small proportion of Russian women. Just 9.2% rate their income as high, versus 36.3% with a low income. More than half of women say their income will buy them just food and clothes.

There is little concept of feminism in Russia. Women, particularly in the city, are independent but the traditional male and female roles are still distinct. So, Kelly Leichenko is the Business Development & Marketing Director, although there are always exceptions, she will expect a man to hold the door Optimum Media Group Russia for her, pour her drinks and carry heavy bags.

:3>@3;73@>/@4C;>=C@6=;;323B=;4=@2 LLC LLC Omnicom’s G23 founding partners 30 Emma Gilding, President of in:site, a cultural anthropology think-tank; Tracy Lovatt, EVP, Behavioural Planning Director at BBDO North America; Sharon Love, CEO of consumer marketing and communications firm TPN; Kate Stephenson, President, Global Account Management, OMG; Andrea Sullivan, Executive Director of Client Services for Interbrand; Dianne Wilkins, a former golf pro and CEO of Interactive agency Critical Mass; Julie Winskie, President and Chief Client Officer of Porter Novelli; and Julie Bauer, President, The Bauerworks. © Clinique Laboratories,Clinique ©

The age of the female Janet Riccio, EVP of Omnicom Group and CEO of the newly launched G23, explains why the time is right for a strategically female consultancy.

It’s no secret that the female economy is the Today, everyone talks about brands needing Some of the emerging, new fundamental world’s fastest growing economy. Women are no a corporate social responsibility dimension. An truths that popped up are amazing. For example, longer bracketed into a niche market. Perhaps investment by brands in these women in emerging the 65% of women that comprise Tribe Two they were a decade ago, but with women making markets and elsewhere is that and more. It is an include US women aged 50 and above and and influencing purchasing decisions to a larger economic investment with high ROI for savvy brands. Chinese women in their thirties. Historically, degree than ever before, it’s time for an agnostically it would not be expected that these two groups integrated approach. Our story would have much in common, if indeed anything. G23 is a new global consultancy that I created But our counterintuitive findings showed that We had the Industrial Age, the Information with Omnicom’s backing earlier this year. First, both groups reject traditional female roles, are Age, the Digital Age and now, we have entered the name – G is for group and 23 is for the pair of very influential in decision-making and think of the Age of the Female Economy. We know from chromosomes that determines gender. The goal of themselves as ahead of their time, as women Help insulate yourself from visible ageing. experience that times of transformation exert a G23 is simple: to transform our clients’ business by for the future. powerful influence which forever alters the way amplifying and activating female economic power. the world works, and the Age of the Female G23 is run by women and is about women. This just offers a snapshot into the potentially huge CZlh[gdb8a^c^fjZAVWdgVidg^Zh/HigZhhXVcYVbV\Zh`^cl^i]k^h^WaZZ[[ZXihbjX] Economy is no exception. The partners will be advised by an all-female board, implications for the way all of us now do business * including Susan Smith Ellis, a former Omnicom with women. The similarities between women across a^`ZhjcVcYedaaji^dc. Not to worry. When it comes to communications and marketing executive who is now chief executive at Red, raising the globe are striking. So far we’ve only scratched during this era, global brands need to respect, money to fight AIDS in Africa; Linda Scott, editor the surface of the data and what it tells us. New HjeZgYZ[ZchZHE;'* visibly boosts skin’s immunity. Helps visibly counteract recognise and work with the Age of the Female of Advertising and Society Review; Fara Warner, Economy. We know that women respect brands a journalist who wrote the book, The Power of the Another example is the influence wielded by the negative impacts of stress that surface as lines and wrinkles. that respect them. There’s so much opportunity, Purse: How Smart Businesses Adapt to Women the many groups of women around the world who especially in emerging marketplaces, if brands Consumers; Linda Heasley, CEO, The Limited; consider themselves to be early adopters, especially So you can look better, longer. recognise the growing influence these women and Linda Boff, CMO, iVillage NBCUniversal. in the emerging world. While some women still ask have. We call this ‘The Female Sole’. Just as men their partners for advice on technology, Brazilian are said to ‘wear the trousers,’ a woman wears the Women’s tribes women don’t. Indeed, Brazilian women ask their www.clinique.co.uk shoes—walking into and out of the lives of brands, We decided to look at women through a very sisters, mothers, girlfriends about the technology depending on the relationships they have built different lens, not the traditional female versus male before they seek advice from the men in their lives. with her over time. looking glass. So we used the idea of women’s This is an assertion of independence, and brands tribes as a way of thinking about women as a should not underestimate their newfound power. cultural group across borders, analysing what they share in a global economy. The study, The 8 Female Today, and in the future, it’s about doing Tribes that Power the Global Economy by global business with women, building communities research company Pacific Ethnography and Harris with women, and that’s what G23 is here to do. Interactive, studied women’s behaviour and beliefs This is a magnificent opportunity for enlightened * See Journal of Experimental Dermatology 2007 EXD-07-0174.R1. These findings are part of an ongoing investigation in 16 countries around the world. This is the largest brands that understand the potential ROI if they by Clinique Laboratories and a leading medical research college into the effects of stress on skin. database in the world dedicated to the consuming invest smartly and strategically in the global female economy. female economy. VERSION 3 VERSION 32 US high-end mag news high-end mag editors high-end mag stars EMEA high-end mag news high-end mag editors high-end mag stars The legendary Interview magazine Who is Cindi Leive? The Editor of Glamour The ubiquitous Kate Moss was back on Spain: A surprising Sept cover for the France: Babeth Djian, legendary editor France: Patrick Demarchelier superstar (221,000+ copies) founded in 1969 by US (2,355,000+ copies) was named cover of Vogue US (1,224,000+ copies) first issue of the new Spanish Vanity Fair of Numéro (43 612+ copies) has finally her photographer (contributor to all international Andy Warhol was re-launched this fall ‘The Most Powerful US Fashion Magazine in the August ‘Ageless’ issue after several monthly edition (print run of 200,000 moment of glory with the publication of Condé Nast editions, photographer of by editorial duo Fabien Baron & Glenn Editor’ by Forbes magazine thanks to a years of absence. The ‘Ageless’ issues copies): Queen Rania of Jordan by Mario the book Babeth with lots of great pictures several Pirelli calendars, famous for its O’Brien. Star photographers like Mert & circulation increase of +4.1% in the last of Vogue US have become top sellers Testino! Are we missing celebrities in Spain of her work with Peter Lindbergh, Karl portrait of late Princess Diana) has its first Marcus or Peter Lindbergh followed… year and glamour.com’s traffic increase of (1,317,845 copies in August 07). for a Vanity Fair cover? Lagerfeld, Mario Sorrenti, etc. A beautiful major exhibition in Paris at Le Petit Palais A serious contender for media plans for +118% since July 07 to 862,708 monthly collection of fashion photos from a (Sept 27th – January 4th). next season. unique users in July 08. true insider.

ELLE N°3 in the new annual A-List survey Well-deserved promotion: the highly Madame Sarkozy, the French President’s Middle East: The Marie Claire Group is Italy: Franca Sozzani, top editor of Italian The Russian model of the moment Anna published in Oct 08 by Adage, ELLE US influential fashion director Marie-Amelie wife Carla Bruni, was gracing the cover of launching two new editions in Arabic fashion bible (47,000+ copies) Selezneva, Carine Roitfeld’s ( (1,082,000 copies) enjoyed huge sales for Sauvé of Vogue Paris (101 620 copies) is Vanity Fair (1,144,000+ copies, US edition) language in Kuwait in (Oct 08) and in published in July 2008 the ‘Black issue’ editor) new protégée, was simultaneously its Jan 2008 issue with Victoria Beckham now also contributing to Vogue US with Style issue in Sept… supermodels Cindy, UAE (Dubaï, Abu Dhabi...) in Nov 08. with exclusively black models featured (incl. on the cover of French and Russian Sept cover and for Feb with Jessica Alba. the legendary Anna Wintour. Stephanie, Claudia, Linda, Christy and Both editions (33rd and 34th Marie Claire Estée Lauder spokesmodel Liya Kebede) Vogue issues. September, fashion magazines’ crucial Naomi were supposed to be together on editions across the world) will benefit of … A record figure of 210 600 copies sold month, saw declines for competitors but this cover and were replaced by Carla. local editorial teams. worldwide ! record ad pages for ELLE US. A coup for France’s first lady!

In Style US: the monthly fashion magazine Model Contributors: Stephanie Seymour Arlenis Sosa is a beautiful Dominican (1,828,000+ copies) was the only high-end has joined the masthead at Interview. model who at just 19 years old is set to fashion magazine to undergo an increase The supermodel and wife of Peter Brant, remember 2008 as a defining time. After of its newsstand sales (+4%) over the Jan- owner of Interview, has been named as only a few weeks of modelling, she was June 08 period versus Jan-June 07. contributing fashion editor. The second booked by Vogue US, was featured in the coming of the original supermodels ‘Black’ issue of Vogue Italia… and was APAC high-end mag news high-end mag editors high-end mag stars continues. chosen to be the new face of Lancôme. The APAC market of high-end international The editor of the new GQ India (which China: Gabriele Hackworthy, Fashion publications is booming with the launch marks the 15th syndicated edition of GQ) Director at Large & Creative Consultant for of Numéro Korea, in July 08, In Style China, is Che Kurrien Editor who said that “The can be thanked for bringing Aug 08, Vogue Hommes Japan ,Sept 08, new Indian man is earning and spending more exposure to Asian models and GQ India, Oct 08 and the announcement like never before, driving consumption designers. Chinese top model of an Australian Glamour coming in in Asia’s third-largest economy, attracting or actresses Zhou Xun and Ziyi Zhang April 2009. a slew of luxury lifestyle brands. GQ will are frequent cover stars. be his guide to all things cool and stylish.” The launch was accompanied by a This time on buzzmeter we look at the Australia: weekly magazine Grazia, which website, gqmagazine.in. The monthly Du Juan: The former Miss China appeals has enjoyed huge success in the UK, hit magazine will distribute 35,000 copies to her native China but also to the world of magazines and discuss... newsstands in July 2008 in Australia. ACP of its first issue in 40 Indian towns. international fashion community (current Magazines is publishing the magazine in a model of Armani and David Yurman buzzmeter joint venture partnership with Hearst, under campaigns). license from Mondadori (circulation goal: what’s hot... 80,000+ copies) ...what’s not

US high-end mag news high-end mag editors high-end mag stars EMEA high-end mag news high-end mag editors high-end mag stars Vogue US: Circulation decreased by -6% Anna Wintour lost her top position – You win, you lose: the Jan 2008 issue of Germany: Glamour (429, 802 copies) will UK: Katie Grand, editor of the avant-garde Babeth Djian (Editor of Numéro) said over the last year, from 1.3 million in 2007 almost – in the latest annual edition of Vogue US featured actress Kate Hudson be published monthly in 2009. Started UK fashion magazine Pop, has left the recently in an interview that when she to 1.23 million in 2008. Style.com, Vogue’s Forbes magazine’s ‘The Most Powerful and didn’t deliver the same sales peak as in 2001 as a monthly magazine, the publication to launch a new bi-annual style discovers a new photographer, she is Web site, is still small compared to its US Fashion Magazine Editor’ survey. She Angelina Jolie had the year previously, with publication frequency was switched to publication called Love with Condé Nast faithful to him, until he leaves her for Condé competitors, but averages respectable ties for the top place with ELLE US’s editor, sales significantly down. The Jolie-Pitt affair biweekly in 2003. “The expectations UK. The first issue is due in spring 2009. Nast, where contributing photographers audiences reaching hundreds of thousands Roberta Myers. But no real headache for remains one of massive intrigue. towards the advertising market have just are required to work exclusively for the of monthly unique users in the last year. Anna, who remains unmatched in her partly been delivered,” said Publisher group. It obliges her to look permanently worldwide fashion stature. Bernd Runge. for new talent, which undoubtedly brings a freshness to her magazine. Cosmo Girl (1 426 000+ copies) became Brad Pitt’s intimate portraits of his partner Whilst magazines continue to deliver in the latest title in the difficult teen market to and family caused a sales surge for terms of advertising engagement and close. Hearst pulled the shutters in Oct 08. high-end fashion magazine W (459,000+ relevance, the industry itself faces hard The brand will continue at cosmogirl.com. copies) this fall. Is it art, fashion or a view times. Consolidation continues with German Vogue US will absorb Men’s Vogue, which into a hidden world? The debate on many publishing house Bauer snapping up Emap has been cut down to two issues a year fashion blogs continues. in the UK, and over at Condé Nast staff APAC high-end mag news high-end mag editors high-end mag stars as a supplement to Vogue US. are being told to streamline budgets and China: The big international magazines China: Angelica Cheung, Editor-in-Chief The Japanese edition of Vogue never staff to help survive this impasse. aside (Cosmopolitan, Vogue, ELLE), the of Vogue China (320,000+ copies), is an features Asian models on its cover while magazine market in China seems to be INFLUENTIAL Editor. Her absence from the the Chinese one does. Why? “Japan is slowing. The reorganization of domestic January’s Parisian Couture shows in 2007 very different from China, though they are magazines has not gone the way officials was strongly noted. As it turns out, the both Asian. Because the Japanese market expected. International brands have grown Vogue China editor was just eight months is very westernized” says Angelica Cheung, stronger. Only a few domestic brands pregnant and under strict doctor’s orders Editor-in-Chief of Vogue China. And she (e.g.: Ray Li) appear able to compete not to fly. adds: “My impression from my Japanese successfully for advertising. China simply colleagues is that the Japanese Vogue has too many unprofitable magazines. A readers prefer to see Western faces in the reorganization and consolidation of existing magazine.” titles is badly needed, but this is a sensitive political and economic issue, with many jobs at stake. &  &ME>MB`ORS>WZZO`1OaVE`O^

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Snapshots of 12 Christmas shopping

Christmas shopping: major headache or a fabulous part of the festive season? In order to find out this and other insights, we commissioned a short Snapshots survey into our differing approaches to tackling the stores at Christmas.

01 Despite stores filling up with Christmas Almost 50% of men rely on 08 goods – and playing carols – as early heavy hints from their other as October, it’s actually December halves before buying. when the majority of us (70%) do our Christmas shopping. The thought that counts? 09 Over a third of men thought 02 Panic Buy! However, nearly a quarter they spent too much on their of us are last minute shoppers, leaving other halves, compared to it as late as Christmas Eve to get our just a fifth of women gift shopping done. believing the same. 03 Male beauty products have yet to With the majority (40%) of 10 find a place on the Christmas wish people spending between list: just 27% of women said they £100-£250 on their partners planned to buy their men something notonthehighstreet.com: from the beauty counter. a third of our respondents said they now do a whopping 04 Alpha males… 50% of their Christmas and of those that were, aftershave shopping online. and moisturiser topped the list. …but the preferred place 11 05 Playing it safe: when it comes to buy beauty products is to buying beauty products for their still in store, even for men. other halves, 60% of men either buy exactly the same product already being used, or something Only 10% said they shop 12 from the same brand. online to avoid going to the beauty counter. 06 Power of the sell: a quarter of men follow the advice of the in-store assistant as to what to buy.

Stumped! Over 60% of Source: 07 200 UK respondents women know exactly what 18-45 to get their partners, but November 2008 it’s not so straightforward for men… © TOMMY HILFIGER LICENSING, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE NEWFRAGRANCE FORMEN