8

SUMMARY OF CHAPTERS.

CHAPTER I., LIFE AND ASPECTS AT ANCIENT CAWOOD ... 25 Importance of Cawood—Where Wharfe joins Ouse—Aspects of the town—The new bridge—Character of surrounding country—Local geology—Carrs and marshes—Name of Cawood—Ancient woodlands—The manor at the Con- quest—Tenure in bondage, some of its effects—Local customs—Manor-house of the Archbishops of York—Royal visitors at Cawood—Ancient inns- - Hostilers " of the 41 th century—Great banquets at the Castle—Life at Cawood past and present.

CHAPTER II., CAWOOD AND WOLSEY Wolsey appointed to the See of York—His arrival at Cawood—Repair of the castle—High state life at the castle—The coming crisis—The Cardinal's arrest at Cawood—His farewell and grief at his departure—Great concourse of spectators—The journey to Pontefract and Leicester—The Cardinal's death—Decline of Cawood—The castle after the Reformation—Local feeling —Arrival of Archbishop Grindal—Visit of Queen Elizabeth to Cawood— The Civil War—Cawood Castle dismantled, and its old glory departed.

CHAPTER III., CAWOOD CASTLE, CHURCH, AND TOWN ... 41 Description of the Castle—Cawood Park—Site of church liable to inundations— Early history—Description of the church—Local families—Ancient markets and river-traffic—Old custom—Old system of rating—Keesberry Hall—First mention of Cawood— Present aspects of the town—The new light-railway- Former importance and population of Wistow—Its ancient church.

CHAPTER IV., SOME CAWOOD CHARITIES ... 58 Hitherto unpublished records—Bequests of Archbishops Mountaigne and Harsnett —Inquisitions at Cawood in 1648—References to old field-names, pinfold, stocks, rood-stile, &c —Abuse of the trusts—Enquiry at York Castle—Past and present value of the charities—School endowments, &c.

CHAPTER V., ABOUT RYTHER Effluence of the Wharfe—Wild flowers—Situation of Ryther—An ancient settle- ment—Meaning of Ryther—Early history—Large extent of woodland—Local possessions of the canons of Bolton—Ancient knight-service—The family of Ryther—Its great military distinction—Free-warren at Ryther—The reverses at Bannockburn—Compulsory knighthood—John de Ryther, " hero of a hundred fights "—Ryther nuns—Later history and pedigree of Ryther—The Earls of Harrowby—The castle—Aspects of Ryther—Local charities—The Wesleyans—The township of Lead. 9

CHAPTER VI., RYTHER CHURCH ... • • • 77 Unique collection of stone altars—Preservation of relics—Popularity of St. William, Archbishop of York—His portrait in the church—Architectural description of the fabric—The ancient monuments—The Robinson brasses— Restorations of the church—Grant to Appleton Nunnery—Taxation of the living—The registers—List of rectors.

CHAPTER VII., CHURCH FENTON : ITS ASPECTS AND

HISTORICAL RECORDS 8o

Landscape effects—Wild flowers—Apple-land—The autumn-crocus—Name of Fenton—History of the manor—Ancient landowners—Old field-names-Wapentake courts—Ancient charters—Population in 1378—An unpublished inquisition—The Civil War—The Jacobite rebellion—A diabolical murder

CHAPTER VIII., THE CHURCH, VILLAGE, AND OLD FAMILIES OF CHURCH FENTON ... 97

Antiquity of the church—Its dedication—Description of the church, and archi- tectural details—Singular position of holy-water stoup—Prebendary of Fenton—The vicars—Old families—Old houses—Remains of ancient cross.

CHAPTER IX., BOLTON PERCY : ITS HISTORY AND OLD

FAMILIES ...... 105

Picturesque aspects—The vine and rosemary—Old houses—Evidences of the Ice Age—Many Boltons in Yorkshire and consequent confusion—The manor of Bolton Percy—Methods of land cultivation at the Conquest—The soke of Healaugh an important heritage—The pre-Conquest church—The Percies and their Yorkshire castles—Successive owners of Bolton Percy—Peculiar anomaly in the ownership of the church and manor—Grant of free-warren-Plague and murrain—Effects at Bolton Percy—Population in 1378—The Lords Beaumont—Sale of the manor to the Fairfaxes—The Duke of Buckingham and Mary Fairfax married at Bolton Percy—Sale of the manor to the Milners —Old families—The Wickhams—Some notable connections with Bolton Percy—Manor of Hornington—The Kendalls

CHAPTER X. BOLTON PERCY : OLD CUSTOMS AND

EVENTS ... 116

Village life in the olden times—The parish accounts—Lord Fairfax and King James IL—Perambulation of boundaries—Wandering beggars—A woman of Bolton Percy publicly whipped—Local wild animals—Sparrow-shooting -A remarkably late occurrence of the beaver at Bolton Percy—Suitable habitats of the beaver—A Book of Briefs—Some old church restorations— The church of St Olave's, York—The Ripponden flood—Horse-races at Bolton Percy—Carriage of letters—Bequests to the poor—Brockett Hall and the Brocketts—Bolton Lodge and its tenants—Old inn 10

CHAPTER XI., THE CASTLE, CHURCH, AND RECTORS OF BOLTON PERCY ... 121 License to erect a castle at Bolton Percy—Was the castle ever built ?—The castle at Spofforth—The 15th century manor-house at Bolton Percy—Its site and aspects—Traditions of Robin Hood—Historical records of the church— Description of the church—Pagan and Christian ritual—Burial of Ferdinando, Lord Fairfax—Chantry in the church—Barker family—Local customs—A curious dispute about the Hall pew—Local recusancy—The old church bells —Burials in woollen—Old tithe-barn—The rectory—The old rectors—Torre's omissions—Recent rectors CHAPTER XII., APPLETON ROEBUCK AND NUN APPLETON 139 Importance of Appleton in Saxon times—Relics of pre-historic occupation— Early history—The foundation of Appleton Nunnery—The monastic fish- pond—The Cistercian system—The origin of first-fruits—Rushes and rush- lights—The Fauconberg family—The right to dower—Civilization in the 15th century—General demoralization—Monastic relaxation—Charges against the Nuns of Appleton—Stringent regulations—The story of the wooing of Isabel Thwaites by William Fairfax—An unfounded romance —Their marriage at Bolton Percy—A notable alliance—Suppression of the Nunnery—Fairfaxes opposed to the Dissolution—Public unrest and tyranny of the " reformers " —Execution of the aged Countess of Salisbury—Grant of site, &c., of Nun Appleton—Erection of the Hall, the home of the great Lord Fairfax—Sale of the estate to the Milners—Purchase by Mr (now Sir) Angus Holden— Pedigree of Holden—The Markham Family—Description of the mansion— An attractive neighbourhood—Local natural history—The village of Appleton CHAPTER XIII., COLTON, STEETON, AND THE FAIRFAXES 155 Prehistoric evidences at Woolas—Name of Colton—Manorial history and some results of subinfeudation—The creation of new manors—The old Hall at Colton—Local aspects—The new church—Old beliefs and customs—Incense and flowers—History of Steeton—Local landowners—Accession of the Fairfaxes to Steeton—Sir Guy Fairfax built Steeton Hall—Antiquity of chapel —A confusion of Steetons—Alliance of Fairfax with Coates' family of Craven —Steeton Hall made a farm-house—Description of the Hall—Interesting inventory of effects at the Hall in 1558—Chimneys a novelty—The chapel, its ancient arms, and Fairfax associations—The chapel removed CHAPTER XIV., BILBROUGH...... 165 Situation of Bilbrough—A supposed Roman look-out post—Prehistoric tumuli-- Recent excavations at Bilbrough Hill--A large tumulus—Antiquity of the church, and its position near the Roman camp—History of the manor—Local families—Purchase of the manor by the Fairfaxes—Its subsequent sale and purchase by Admiral Fairfax in 1716—The old manor-house—The Fairfaxes resident in the neighbourhood over seven centuries—Pedigree of the Fairfaxes —The York and Ainsty Hunt—The American Fairfaxes —Their old home in Virginia—The late Lord Fairfax—Old family portraits at Bilbrough—The church and its re-erection in 1844—The Nortons—The great Lord Fairfax buried in the Norton Chapel—Local memorials—The churchyard—Dedica- tion of the church—Its endowments and the Parliamentary report—The village of Bilbrough, and surrounding scenery. II

CHAPTER XV., KIRKBY WHARFE ... 177

Geological aspects—Curious phenomena—Architectural qualities of the Magnesian Limestone—Ancient settlements—Flint relics found at Kirkby Wharfe— Discovery of a Roman inscribed tablet—Local sculptured crosses in the church —Kirkby Wharfe a Danish settlement —Historical records-Old families—Picturesque situation of the church—Description of the church— The churchyard—Registers—The vicars—Biographical notices—The vicarage houses—Rural aspects of the village—Old customs.

CHAPTER XVI., GRIMSTON PARK ...... 193

Ancient cultivation— Meaning of Grimston— Grim in the A -S. dedication stone at York—The manor of Grimston—The manor-house—Local families—The Stanhopes and Gascoignes—Purchase of the manor by Lord Howden—Local field names—Duke of Wellington at Grimston—Sale of Grimston to Lord Londesborough, and afterwards to John Fielden, Esq.—Description of the mansion—A remarkable collection of relics—The park and gardens—Former population of Grimston—Schools—Bella Hall estate

CHAPTER XVII., ULLESKELF ... 203

A place without a history —Importance of Ulleskelf in pre-Norman times— Gallows at Ulleskelf—Some important discoveries—Meaning of Ulleskelf— The manor with church—Historical records—Baptisms at Ulleskelf— Population in 1378—Local men in the wars—Old families—Village aspects —An ancient homestead—A great fire—Disappearance of the old church Erection of the new church—Wesleyan Chapel and National School

CHAPTER XVIII., ROUND ABOUT TOWTON • •• 210

North Milford—The ancient family of Ledes—Custom of garsome—Milford Hall Manor of Towton—Baron Hawke—Towton Hall—The great Battle of Towton—The site of the battle—The burial trenches—Lord Dacre's tomb— Horse and warrior interred together—Local discoveries—Some relics : a Towton battle-axe—The Towton roses, a foolish belief—The 15th century memorial chapel.

CHAPTER XIX., ABOUT SAXTON AND ABERFORD 218

Scarthingwell Hall—Catholic chapel—Village of Saxton—A wayside cross—The Cock Beck—Lead Hall and church—Peculiar endowment of the church— Around Aberford—A wealth of wild-flowers—Roman road —Name of Aberford —Charter for a market —The church—Its unusual dedication—Murder of a vicar—Aberford on a main highroad—Local plagues—Registers of the church —Effects of plagues, &c —Abstracts from registers—Tithe-barn-Local pin trade—" Sammy Hick "—Table of former occupations at Aberford Pinfold and ducking-stool—The bridge—Aberford longevity—Barwick-in- Elmet—Old hall— Lotherton—Sturton Grange —Becca Hall—Old inn— Supposed Roman bridge. 12

CHAPTER XX., TADCASTER IN PRE-NORMAN TIMES ... 229 Prehistoric Tadcaster–A British station–British footways–Situation of the early church–The Calatum of Ptolemy–Celtic origin of the Roman Calcaria-- Discovery of skeleton and stone weapon–St. Heiv and Tadcaster–Kelcbar als. Kelbar–Newton Kyme not Calcaria –Was " Tatha " in 1066 Tadcaster ?- Name of Tadcaster–Tadcaster on Ermyn Street–Position and extent of Roman camp– • ' Castle Hill "–Roman finds–A remarkable bronze ringed celt found at Tadcaster–Other discoveries–The " Street of Tombs"–Roman interments–Details of direction of the Roman road through Tadcaster– Notes on occupation of district by Saxon and Dane–Tadcaster a Danish mint –The castle mounds–Evidences of a stone-built castle

CHAPTER XXI., TADCASTER: RECORDS OF EIGHT CEN- TURIES. PART I...... 239 Tadcaster a royal residence before the Conquest–The castle of King Olaf– William the Conqueror at Tadcaster–His capture of York –Tadcaster spared from devastation–Its rapid development–Domesday testimony –System of cultivation–No church at the Conquest–Manor of Malchetone – Large grants to Percy–Early records of the Percies–Percy pedigree–King John at Tadcaster–York Minster built of Tadcaster stone–Charter for market and fair in 1270–Grant of free warren in 1295 – Antiquity of local quarries –Leased by the monasteries – Early toll at Tadcaster Bridge–Local enquiry in 1258–Mills, manor-house, and public oven–Bond-tenants, &c

CHAPTER XXII., TADCASTER : RECORDS OF EIGHT CEN- TURIES. PART II.... 247

Local effects of the battle of Bannockburn–Invasion of Scots–Destruction at Tadcaster in 13I8–Depreciation of the church living – A calamitous era– The Black Death and its ravages –Social and economic comparisons with Tadcaster – Fourteenth century taxation – Local taxpayers – Trade and progress stifled –Vicar of Tadcaster succumbs to the Black Death–Terrible mortality–No Parliament–Scarcity of labourers–The status of Tadcaster in 1378–Local breweries and hostilers–Tadcaster and the war in 1408–A local attainder–Wars of the Roses –Scene on Tadcaster Bridge–Edward IV. at Tadcaster –Progress of Princess Margaret through Tadcaster–The Catholic rebellions of 1538 and 1569–The Tadcaster gallows–The Duke of Somerset and the Reformation –The manor of Tadcaster –Tadcaster in the peerage –The Civil War –Lord Fairfax at Tadcaster–Local evidences of the battle at Tadcaster –Plague in 16 45–Annihilation of feudalism –Progress of Tadcaster– Local Protestantism –The rating of Tadcaster in 1690– The Stuart rebellion –Importance of Tadcaster in coaching times–Local inns

CHAPTER XXIII., THE PARISH CHURCH, TADCASTER ... 265

Roman Christianity –The church a foundation of the Percies–Supposed manor- house chapel–Discovery of a piscina– Local chapels and oratories –Dedica- tion of the church– Chantry of St John the Baptist at Bridge end–Situation of the church and liability to inundations of the Wharfe–A memorable flood –Historical records of the church–Tadcaster in the Vatican archives–A curious indictment–Ordination of the vicarage–An unpublished record 13

CHAPTER XXIII., continued

A 13th and 41 th century contrast—The tax of the Ninths—The Black Death —A local jury—Some peculiar emoluments of the early vicars—The 17th century : a scene in the church—Its present appearance—Some archæological features—The chantry-chapels—Their foundation and history—List of chaplains—Local family memorials—The registers—List of vicars, with biographical notices—The old churchyard

CHAPTER XXIV., TADCASTER NONCONFORMIST AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS ... 281 The Grammar School--Its origin in Saxon times—Originally held in the church Re-founded by Bishop Oglethorpe—The Bishop's will—Some schoolmasters and pupils—The Hospital or " Bead Houses "—An ancient cross-slab-Chapel of St John the Baptist—The old Friends' Meeting House—Quaker persecution—George Fox at Tadcaster—Some local Meeting Houses—The Presbyterians—Morley er Heywood at Tadcaster—Local Congre- gationalism — John Wesley and Benjamin Ingham at Tadcaster—The Inghamites — Wesleyans — Reform Methodists — Primitive Methodists — Roman Catholics—Town Hall—Eight Schools in the „town—The oldest Sunday School in England—Present Schools—Tadcaster Union.

CHAPTER XXV., TADCASTER OLD FAMILIES ... 290 The Percies and De Tadcasters—Baron and Viscount Tadcaster—Some local families deriving their names from local trades and places—Two Tadcaster merchants—The Normanvilles, Hardys, and Barkers—Will of John Barker, 1680—The Tukes and Battys—A local pedigree—The Marshalls—The Fosters of Smaws—Hartleys, Sheriffs of York—Family of Morley and " Morley Hall "—The Bellhouses and Woods—An unpublished pedigree—Other local families—Siddells and Moorhouses—Family of Potter—An Archbishop of Canterbury—Families of Shann, Smith, Bromet, &c.—Local celebrities

CHAPTER XXVI., THE TOWN, TRADE, AND OLD INNS OF TADCASTER .

The parish of Tadcaster and Parliamentary Divisions—The Bridge, originally of Timber—Its re-erection in stone—The bill of costs—Families of Etty and Cockshott—Alterations about the Market Place—Former aspects—The old Market Cross—Gunpowder Plot celebrations—The coaching days—Old inns The Ark and its history—Other pre-Reformation inns—Some proceedings in chancery—Ancient inn-signs—Local survival of Roman inn custom— Queen Elizabeth and the " Savage "—Armorial signs—Warburton at the Roebuck—Some local innkeepers—Tadcaster an ancient post-town—The old post-office—The first mention of Tadcaster post-office—The old " running- post "—Royal messengers—Horsemen and archers guard the King's treasure through Tadcaster—Local ancient breweries—The assize of ale—Local industries—The manufacture and dyeing of cloth—The markets and fairs— Decline of Tadcaster—Opening of local railways—Revival of brewing and malting trades—The Smith family—Tadcaster water—" Popple-wells "- Local Longevity—Events, customs, and traditions—John Wilkes and Tad- caster CHAPTER XXVII., AROUND TADCASTER ... 311 Pleasant scenery—Wealth of vegetable life—The nightingale, a visitor—The road to Oxton—Ouston and Oxton—The old Hall —Local families—Wild flowers —Smaws Hall—A notable quarry—Meaning of Smaws—Its ancient families —About Stutton—Geological aspects—Thevesdale—Antiquity of Stutton corn- mill—Local families and celebrities—A famous painter—A monumental work —History of Toulston—Ancient inn at Toulston—Local families—The Fairfaxes—Sale of Toulston—The old Hall—Toulston Lodge—Present and former aspects—Its owners—George IV at Toulston—Recent extension and improvements of the mansion—Some old yews

CHAPTER XXVIII., TADCASTER V. NEWTON KYME : A GREAT BOUNDARY DISPUTE .. 32I

Protracted dispute—Purchase of Toulston in 16 40—Reputed encroachments by Sir Robert Barwick—Toulston warren-house—The Fairfaxes at Toulston— The Earl of Northumberland's claim—An action for trespass—Reputed boundaries of Toulston manor—Toulston coney-warren—Evidence of 28 witnesses- Riding the bounds—Some old boundary-marks—Sir Thos Fairfax rides the bounds—Trial at the Assizes—Enclosure of the common in 1990— The dispute revived ed—Rev Henry Wray and his tithes—The case put to arbitration—Settlement of the dispute

CHAPTER XXIX., ABOUT WIGHILL ... 329 Pleasant approaches to Wighill—Antiquity of Easedyke—An ancient peel-tower —Hay Dike—Plan of Easedyke—A separate manor—Feudal reservations-- Importance- of Wighill before the Conquest—Its character and population in Saxon times—Old field-names—Manor of Hagenby-- Meaning of Wighill— Conjectured murder of an Earl of Northumbria at Wighill —Moat House— Early history of Wighill—Knights Templars at Wighill—The Stapleton family—Some interesting records--The Stapletons hold Wighill for nearly 450 years—Its sale to the Wilsons—The Hawke family—Ancient aspects of Wighill —Curious customs—The church—Its History and architectural description—Recent vicars—The Rev. Dr. Hiley's Memories of Half-a-Century.

CHAPTER XXX, HEALAUGH : ST. HEIV ' S MONASTERY •.. 345 Numerous local dedications to St Helen—Local continuance of Celtic monasti- cism—St. Heiu settles at Tadcaster in 6 49—Annexation of Elmete by King Edwin—His acceptance of Christianity in 627—St Heiu's monastery supposed to have been established at Healaugh—St. Hilda's ancestry— Meaning of Healaugh—Supposed memorial of St Heiu at Healaugh—A curious discovery—Comparison with other early memorials—The early dioceses and growth of monasticism.

CHAPTER XXXI., HEALAUGH : ITS HISTORY, CHURCH, AND

" BIBLE LANDS " 349 Antiquity of socage rights—Comparison with Beverley—Domesday testimony— Extent of soke of Healaugh—Descent of the manor—Records of the church —Its original dedication to St. Helen—The Norman doorway—Description of the church—The late Rev R H Cooke—The Whartons of Healaugh 15

CHAPTER XXXI , continued Philip, fourth Lord Wharton-His great Bible Charity-Wrongful diversion of the trust-Memorial of the Rev Bryan Dale-Rearrangement of the charity-The present trustees-Sale of the " Bible Lands "-Purchase of Healaugh by the Brooksbank family-Picturesque aspects-The old "castle."

CHAPTER XXXII., HEALAUGH PRIORY ... 359

An alien Priory - The present manor-house erected from the conventual buildings An Early-English Chapel-Early records of the Priory-Timber used in its erection brought from Idle-Appropriation of Healaugh Church-Local families-The 15th century vicarage-The Dissolution and sale of the estate

CHAPTER XXXIII., NEWTON KYME Picturesque aspects-The old castle-" Black Tom's " well - Early history- Family of De Kyme-Reputed descent of Robin Hood from the lords of Kyme--Family of Talbois-Local families in the 1 4th century-The manor obtained by the Fairfaxes in 1602 -Their long residence at Newton Kyme- Admiral Robert Fairfax-Records of the church-The rectors-Description of the church-The church-plate -The old churchyard-Descent of the manor -The Hall rebuilt -The avenue in the park-Former aspects of the Hall-The arms of Queen Elizabeth, and autograph at Newton Kyme.

CHAPTER XXXIV., OGLETHORPE ...... 376 Antiquity of Oglethorpe - Parcel of the lordship of Bramham and Newton Kyme Ancient family of Oglethorpe-The 12th century homestead-Some notable scions of the family-Bishop Owen Oglethorpe-He built Headley Hall- The Brandesby family- Pedigree of Bishop Oglethorpe-The family property The founder of Georgia-General Oglethorpe's antecedents-Arms of Oglethorpe -Oglethorpe acquired by the Fairfaxes-Oglethorpe Hall two centuries ago-Recent history

CHAPTER XXXV., ROUND ABOUT WALTON • • • • • • 384 Roman road-Discovery of Roman relics- St Helen and Christianity- St. Helen's Church at York-St Helen's Well and Chapel on the Wharfe- A local shrine-Dedications to St. Helen in Wharfedale-Moat House and Nevison-Walton, the first home of the Fairfaxes-Walton Old Hall- Remarkable mounds-Walton during the Civil War-Mill Hill--Aspects of the village-Early history-Records of the church-Old custom-Some 16th century families-The last Fairfaxes of Walton-Vicars of Walton- Description of the church-Ancient bells -A curious symbol - Restoration of the church-Parish School -Opening of a local tumulus-Thorp Arch School and the Hileys.

CHAPTER XXXVI., SYNNINGTHWAITE PRIORY ... • • • 397 A Cistercian Nunnery-Existing remains-Early history - Local possessions- Other properties - Some interments within the Priory- Grant at Dissolution Later history-Family of Synningthwaite. 16

CHAPTER XXXVII., AROUND BRAMHAM ... 400 The Bramham Moor grit-rocks–Special stone for York Minster–Early occupation of district–Local discoveries–Domesday testimony–A church and priest in 1083–The soke–Manor-house at Clifford–Count of Mortain–His portrait on the Bayeux tapestry–Bramham subfeud to the Fossard family–Curious grant–Early history–A valuable property of Nostell Priory–The Winn family–Lord Headley–Antiquity of the church–Some architectural features The vicars–Bramham Park–The famous Bramham Moor Hunt–The late Mr. George Lane-Fox – His geniality and popularity – A magnificent testimonial–His death and funeral–Recognition by the Prince of Wales– Bowcliffe House–The Battle of Bramham Moor–A pleasant country–Some notable mansions–Bramham College

CHAPTER XXXVIII., BOSTON SPA 411 Beautiful scenery–Local longevity–Rise and growth of the Spa–The famous mineral spring–Aspects and attractions of the Spa–The first house–The church, past and present–Other places of worship–Boston included in Clifford–An ancient township–The bridge over Wharfe–Recent alterations and new houses–St Kitts and the Atkinson family–Pedigree of Atkinson– Boston Lodge–Chestnut Grove–The Wickham family–Wharfedale House Samuel Waddington, poet–Rev Wm Bownas, B A , and John Emmett, F L S –Clifford–Its notable Roman Catholic church–Hoffman's statue of the Virgin–St John's Institute for the Deaf and Dumb

CHAPTER XXXIX., THORP ARCH ... 421 Antiquity of the settlement–Domesday testimony–The Arches family–Descent of the manor–Fourteenth century trades–Local woollen industry–The old corn-mill Historical records–The Gossip family–Picturesque aspects– The " old castle "–Thorp Arch Hall–Manor-house–Records of the church The vicars–Description of the church–Pre-Norman relics–The churchyard The parish registers

CHAPTER XL., W ETHERBY • • • 429 Importance of Wetherby–A famous coaching town–Highways tilled with cattle Old inns–An ancient settlement–Local discoveries–Castle Garth– Antiquity of the bridge –A royal messenger at Wetherby–A remarkable ring–Early history–Grant of market to the Knights Templars–Ancient trades –Local woollen industry–Antiquity of Wetherby Chapel–Chapel at Follyfoot–Local records–The chapel rebuilt–Discovery of human remains Sale of the town by the Duke of Devonshire –Manorial rights–Local trades–Recent building operations –Former aspects and old customs

CHAPTER XLI., M ICKLETHWAITE AND WETHERBY GRANGE 436

The Drovers' inn–Grant of Micklethwaite to Kirkstall Abbey--The grant rescinded, and again restored at a fee-farm rent–History from the Dissolution –The Paver and Beilby families–Old names of the Grange –Sale of the estate by Lord Wenlock –The, Browns of Liverpool–Purchase of Mickle- thwaite by the Gunter family–Col. Sir Robert Gunter, Bart., M P –New water-works–The Wetherby shorthorns –A notable herd–Some remarkable 17

CHAPTER XLII., COLLINGHAM ••• 443 " Dalton Parlours "–A Roman villa–Local finds–Apsidal buildings–Roman Christianity–Evidences of local coins, &c –An early Saxon settlement– The story of King Oswin–His 7th century memorial-cross at Collingham– Site of monastery–A Norman cross– Early history of Collingham–The church–Its appropriation in 1258–Description of the fabric–Restoration in 1898–Further discoveries–Local memorials–The churchyard, a burial site since the 7th century

CHAPTER XLIII., BARDSEY

An ancient settlement–The Castle Hill–Discoveries on the site–Formerly an island–The name of Bardsey–Domesday evidence— Early history–Monastic property–Later history–Appropriation of the church–Description of the church–Some curious features–The tower comparison with St Mary's church, Bishophill, York–Memorials in the church–Antiquity of the registers--Local families–Congreve, the dramatist, a native of Bardsey– The old Town Books

CHAPTER XLIV., ABOUT EAST KEswIcK AND WIKE ... 459

A sunny site–Early history of the manor–Local monastic possessions–The old Hall–Places of worship–The Society of Friends–Local pastimes–Good roads–Wike school–A famous find of ancient coins

CHAPTER XLV., HAREWOOD... • •• 463 Rural charm of Harewood–An illustrious record–Antiquity of Harewood– Meaning of the name–Harewood a Danish mint–Domesday evidence–A large parish–Grant to the Romilles–Descent of the manor–Market-charter –The Rythers and Redmans–Pedigree of Redman–The Gascoigne family –Gawthorpe Hall–Chief Justice Gascoigne–Subsequent owners of Hare- wood–The Lascelles family–Harewood House –Royal visits

CHAPTER XLVI., THE CASTLE, CHURCH, AND VILLAGE

OF HAREWOOD 474 Origin of the Castle–License to fortify it–Arms of Aldburgh and Balliol– Description of the castle–Its last occupants–Its destruction by Cromwell erroneous–The parish church–Its dedication –Historical records of the church–Omissions in Torre's list of vicars–The Rev Richard Hale, M.A –Description of the church–Its unique collection of effigied monuments– Ancient armorial bearings in the church–The late Lord Harewood –The village.

CHAPTER XLVII., AROUND WEETON • • • • • • 483 Weardley–Rawdon Hill–Harewood Bridge–The old Ship inn–Township of Dunkeswick–Rougemont–Helthwaite Hill and the Maude family–Pedigree of Maude, Barons de Montalt–Weeton–Old families–Name of Weeton – Touhouse in Harewood Park–Weeton church–Almscliff Crags 18

CHAPTER XLVIII., ABOUT ARTHINGTON 487 A charming landscape-An early settlement-Domesday record--The Count of Mortain - Paganel family, and their local benefactions to the monasteries- Descent of the manors of Adel and Arthington-Holy Trinity Priory, York -Medieval hospitality-Rise of freeholders-Local family of Arthington- Nunnery at Arthington-Its local possessions-The Creskeld family- Pedigree of Arthington- Arms of Arthington-Worsley family connections- Purchase of Arthington by the Sheepshanks-Arthington Hall and Church- Site of the Nunnery granted to Cranmer-The Nunnery buildings-Plan and description of the establishment- Local remains-The Nunnery house and local families

CHAPTER XLIX., CRESKELD Antiquity of Creskeld-Meaning of the name-Family of Creskeld-The De Bingleys at Creskeld-Notes from the Wentworth MSS -Local possessions of Kirkstall Abbey-The Goldsborough family-Early ironworks at Creskeld - The manor at the Dissolution-A family dispute-Destruction of Golds- borough Hall -Sale of Creskeld, &c , to the Wentworths-Bond-tenants and old customs -The Atkinson family-Conveyance of Creskeld to the Thornhills-Its purchase by William Rhodes-The Rhodes and Darwin families-Pedigree of Rhodes-Mr Francis Darwin, J P -Antiquity of Creskeld manor-house- The present Hall and Chapel-The Park.

INDEX OF PEDIGREES. Pages RYDER, OF HARROWBY 72-73 HOLDEN, OF NUN APPLETON .. 152 FAIRFAX, OF BOLTON PERCY, &C. .. 169 PERCY, OF TADCASTER, &C. .. 242 BATTY AND TUKE, OF TADCASTER, &C. 293 BELLHOUSE, OF LEEDS, TADCASTER, &C. 297 STAPLETON, OF WIGHILL 335 SAXON KINGS OF NORTHUMBRIA 346 BISHOP OGLETHORPE .. 381 OGLETHORPE, OF OGLETHORPE 382 ATKINSON, OF THORP ARCH 416-17 EARLY LORDS OF HAREWOOD 462 REDMAN, OF LEVENS AND HAREWOOD 470-I MAWDE OR MAUDE, OF HELTHWAITE 485 ARTHINGTON, OF ARTHINGTON 493-5 RHODES, OF MENSTON AND BRAMHOPE 507 1 9

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL PAGE VIEWS.

IN THE LARGE PAPER EDITION ONLY

Engraved for this work from the original supplied by Harewood House and Park a Century ag o, drawn by J M W Turner, R A .. Frontispiece

IN BOTH EDITIONS FULL PAGE VIEWS. Face page Cawood two Centuries Ago .. 25 Progress of Cardinal Wolsey 35 Cawood Castle Gateway, east front Geo F Jones, FRIBA , Malton 4, Cawood Castle Gateway .. 43 Cawood Church .. 45 Monument to Archbishop Mountaigne.. 50

Ryther Church before Restoration .. Rev A T M A Ryther 77

Church Fenton Church George F. Jones, Malton 97 Old Cottages, Bolton Percy .. George Hepworth, Brighouse 105

Bolton Percy Church J Norton Dickons, Bradford 121

Interior of Bolton Percy Church Do I25 Ancient Tithe Barn, Bolton Percy .. George Hepworth, Brighouse 135 Rt Rev R J. Crosthwaite, D D , Bishop

of Beverley Debenham & Co , York .. 137

Nun Appleton Hall .. Sir Angus Holden, Bart., M.P 139 Sir Angus Holden, Bart , M P. Elliott & Fry, London .. 151 Rt Hon John, Eleventh Lord Fairfax.. Rt Hon Lord Fairfax.. 171 Kirkby Wharfe Debenham & Co., York .. 177

Ancient Cross, Kirkby Wharfe Church Do. 179 Kirkby Wharfe Church Duncan & Lewin, York.. 188 Grimston Park George F. Jones, Malton 193

Rt. Hon Albert, Lord Londesborough.. Earl of Londesborough /97 John Fielden, Esq. .. A Bassano, London .. 199 Ulleskelf Debenham Co , York .. 203

Bronze Celts found near Ulleskelf J Norton Dickons, Bradford 204. Castle Hill and Prehistoric Mounds, Tadcaster J H Hull, M.P.S , Tadcaster 229

Tadcaster Church .. George F Jones, Malton 265 Toulston Lodge .. H. H J.P , Tadcaster 311

Pedigree of Stapleton, of Wighill Miss Stapylton, London.. 335

Healaugh Church .. Duncan & Lewin, York.. 349 Norman Doorway, Healaugh Church .. Do 353 The old Manor Farm, Healaugh Miss Cooke, Healaugh 359 20

Remains of Castle, Newton Kyme George Hepworth, Brighouse 363

Newton Kyme Church Do. 370 Norman Doorway, Synningthwaite • • Duncan & Lewin, York .. 397

Robert, Count of Mortain, A D 1086 • • G. Bell & Sons, London 40,

George Lane-Fox, Esq. Percy Bownas, Boston Spa 407 The Bridge, Boston Spa and Thorp Arch,

about thirty years ago .. Do. 411 Thorp Arch Church in 1840 .. William F Atkinson, Ilkley • • 421

Col. Sir Robert Gunter, Bart , M P. .. W. D. Brigham, Scarbro' 440

Plan of Roman Villa near Collingham.. F. W Dalby, Compton.. 444 Ancient Crosses, Collingham Church .. Dr J H. Whitham, Boston Spa.. 448 Arms formerly in the Church and Castle

at Harewood • • 463

Francis Darwin, Esq .. Whyte, Inverness • • 499

Creskeld Hall .. Francis Darwin, Creskeld .. 508

OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS

Cardinal Wolsey 38 Interior of Cawood Church .. Rev. B. E Wake, M A , Cawood.. 48 Seal of Archbishop Kemp .. 57 Arms of Ryder, of Harrowby.. Rev A. G. Dudley Ryder, M A .. 72 Altar-tomb in Ryther Church.. Rev. A. T. Field, M A., Ryther 8o Tomb of Sir William Ryther in Ryther Church .. Do Ryther Church after the Restoration in 1898 Do 83 Rev. William Sibthorpe Cole, M A .. Rev E Manic Cole, M A , Wetwang 86 Female Effigy in Church Fenton Church 99 East End of Church Fenton Church .. George F Jones, Malton too Base of Cross, Church Fenton 103 George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham.. 112 Sedilia and Piscina, Bolton Percy Church .. • • 127 Lord Fairfax's Chair.. • • 153 Steeton Hall • • 160 Greenaway Court, Virginia • • 171 The old Church, Bilbrough Mr Wright, Bilbrough.. • • 173 The First Earl of Londesborough • • Rev Canon Wilton, M A • • 198 Towton Hall two centuries ago The British Museum .. .. 212 Battle-axe from Towton Field.. His Grace the Duke of Northumber- land .. 216 Becca Hall, near Aberford Percy Bownas, Boston Spa .. 227 Remarkable Ringed Celt found near Tadcaster .. 234 Roman Christian Lamp, formerly at Grimston Park .. • • 238 Tadcaster Bridge .. • • 245 Tadcaster Church before 1875 .. Miss Bellhouse, Roundhay • • 272 Cross-slab at Tadcaster • • 284 Old Sunday School, Tadcaster • • 288 The "Ark," Tadcaster .: Miss Bellhouse, Roundhay • • 302 21

Smaws Hall two centuries ago British Museum 314 Toulston Lodge in 1828 H. H. Riley-Smith, J P , Tadcaster 317 Charles, Tenth Lord Fairfax .. Rt. Hon. Lord Fairfax .. 318

Plan of Easedyke Miss Stapylton. London .. 330

Wighill Hall a century ago .. Do. 337

Plan of Wighill Do. 339

Norman Doorway, Wighill Church .. Do. 341

Tomb of Robt. Stapleton, Wighill Church Do. 343

The St. Heiu Stone found at Healaugh.. Yorks. Archæl. Journal .. 347 Seal of Appleton Nunnery .. 362 The old Tithe Barn, Newton Kyme • • George Hepworth, Brighouse 365 Admiral Robert Fairfax 367 The Rectory, Newton Kyme George Hepworth, Brighouse 369 Consecration Cross, Newton Kyme • • 370 Newton Kyme Hall .. George Hepworth, Brighouse 371 Avenue in the Park, Newton Kyme Do. 373 Newton Kyme Hall in 1718 .. British Museum 375 Queen Elizabeth's Autograph.. 375 Oglethorpe Hall two centuries ago .. British Museum 381 Arms of Fairfax and Vere at Bilbrough Church .. 383 The Old Hall, Walton William Green, Bingley.. 387 Old Cottage, Walton.. Percy Bownas, Boston Spa 389 Walton Church before the Restoration.. Do. 391 Fylfot on Church-bell at Walton 392 Thorp Arch Grange .. Percy Bownas, Boston Spa 393 Synningthwaite Priory Farm .. Duncan f Lewin, York.. 398 Boston Spa Church in 1870 .. Percy Bownas, Boston Spa 413 The Rev. Wm. Atkinson .. Wm. F. Atkinson, Ilkley 415 Tomb-slab in Thorp Arch Church 427 Wetherby Grange .. Miss Gunter, Wetherby Grange 439 Ancient Stone Sideboard, Harewood 476 Rev. Richard Hale, M.A., Vicar of Harewood James C. Eastburn, Bradford • • 478 Tomb of Lord Chief Justice Gascoigne, Harewood • • 480 The old Ship Inn, Harewood Bridge .. James C. Eastburn, Bradford • • 484 Seal of Arthington Priory .. • • 498