Mississippi State University Scholars Junction

Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Bulletins Experiment Station (MAFES)

12-1-1942

A guide to planning clothes for the Mississippi farm family

Dorothy Dickins

Alice Bowie

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Recommended Citation Dickins, Dorothy and Bowie, Alice, "A guide to planning clothes for the Mississippi farm family" (1942). Bulletins. 181. https://scholarsjunction.msstate.edu/mafes-bulletins/181

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station (MAFES) at Scholars Junction. It has been accepted for inclusion in Bulletins by an authorized administrator of Scholars Junction. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Bulletin 372 December 1942

A Guide To GlotUel

For The Mississippi Farm Family

By DOROTHY DICKINS and ALICE BOWIE

MISSISSIPPI STATE COLLEGE AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION CLARENCE DORMAN, Director STATE COLLEGE MISSISSIPPI

PLANNING CLOTHES

for the

MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY

DOROTHY DICKINS Head Home Economics Department ALICE BOWIE Assistant in Home Economics CONTENTS Page Sources of Information 5 Typical Supplies and Yearly Replacements 6 Typical Wardrobes of Men and Boys — 7 Clothing supplies of men 7 Clothing supplies of grown boys 10 Clothing of high school boys 11

Clothing of grammar school boys , 13 Clothing of preschool boys — 14 Typical Wardrobes of Women and Girls 16 Farm homemakers' clothing - 16 Clothing supplies of grown girls „ 18 Clothing of high school girls 19 Grammar school girls' clothing „_ 21 Clothing supplies of preschool girls 25 Clothing Supplies of Infants 26 Summary and Conclusions 27 Planning Clothes for the Mississippi Farm Family By DOROTHY DICKINS, Head Home Economics Department ALICE BOWIE, Assistant in Home Economics

Clothing expenses take more of the frequency of replacement and total cost farm family's money than any one other of replacement during the year (tables 1 item except food. In Mississippi, about through 11). Such information can one-fifth of all the money spent for farm serve as a guide in planning clothing sup- family living is spent for clothing. Is plies; should prove valuable in checking this more or less than it ought to be? the wisdom of one's own clothing choices. And is it spent where and how it is most Sources of Information needed? Scientific tests have shown that With this in mind, a representative a pint of milk a day is essential to a sample of white families socially active in good food supply for an adult, but there their communities was selected from 12 are no tests that can show that a rayon beats (or Supervisors' districts); 5 of Web- is essential to the adequacy of a ster County, 3 of Madison County, 2 of homemaker's clothing supply. Clothing Grenada County, 1 of Carroll County, specialists agree that wardrobes should and 1 of Monroe County.-/ One mem- have clothing of the type to protect from ber of the Home Economics Department cold and moisture and in quantity suf- of the Experiment Station secured in- ficient for cleanliness. A woolen blanket, formation pertaining to clothing supplies several pairs of unbleached cotton undies, of the members of the 187 families in the a piece of oilcloth and a pair of rubbers sample. All types of families were in- would do this. Yet, this combination cluded, from young couples without chil- would not make a satisfactory . dren to older couples with all children Clothing, outer garments especially, is grown and away from home; from selected not only for comfort and clean- couples with one baby to couples with liness, but also for appearance. Having five children. The average number of clothes like most other people who at- members per family was four. tend the same social events is essential to The median income (the income half- an adequate, satisfying clothing supply. way between the largest and smallest) of Thus, clothing fulfills a social need and the families was about $700 for the year clothing plans for farm people should be of the study. Income included not only based on clothing used by a representative net money income, but also value of group of socially active farm families. occupancy of home, value of home-grown One would no more want to use clothing food and other farm products used by supplies of members of families with "too the family, and value of inventory little clothing to attend church or school" change in livestock and crops stored for as a basis for planning clothing budgets sale. All families were full-time farm than to use food supplies of families with families, but a little over one-half earn- inadequate diets as a basis for planning food budgets. -i^For methods of selecting these families, see pages 1-6, "Clothing Supplies of Socially Partici- This bulletin tells what clothing mem- pating White Farm Families of Mississippi" bers of socially active white farm fam- —Alice Bowie and Dorothy Dickins, Miss. Agri. ilies had, the prices of such garments, Exp. Sta. Tech. Bull. No. :>0. 6 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY ed money from some other source besides ilies), 91 farm homemakers,-'^ 19 grown farming. Almost two-thirds of the fam- boys, 12 grown girls, 16 high school boys, ihes owned their farms. Six percent were 16 high school girls, 36 grammar school sharecroppers and the remainder were boys, 46 grammar school girls, 16 pre- renters. school boys (2 to 5 years of age), 11 pre-

This description is intended to give a school girls (2 to 5 years of age), and 9 infants (boys and girls). According general picture of the kind of families to these 11 smaller groups, clothing who furnished the information which is was summarized to see what garments to people of moder- follow. They were the majority had at the time the inven- ate income. Most of them did all their tory was taken and the usual amount own farm and house work. Soiiie of the bought in one year. Instead of using women and most of the children helped the prices which the families paid for in the field in the summertime, and the the clothing (which prices are now, of women did a lot of the gardening. They course, out of date), each garment is also found time to do some family sew- given the price of similar garments listed ing. A large majority had their own in the most recent catalogue of a popular sewing machines and most of the rest mail order house. This information for had the use of a neighbor's or a relative's. the different groups is given in the 11 of Many the wives and mothers had learn- tables below, and may be used by those ed to just it" sew by "doing or by - who wish to check their own clothing ing and helping when they were growing supply. up. Not many of them had gone to Typical Clothing Supplies and school where home economics courses Yearly Replacements were given. In each of the tables will be found Inventories of clothing owned by each first, the number of garments in the member of the family at the time of the of individuals visit (October 1939 to June 1941) were wardrobes of the majority made. A record was taken of each gar- (typical clothing supplies). The great- ment owned, what it cost, when it was est omission in these clothing supplies bought, on what occasions it was worn, was of rain and night garpients. The what condition it was in, and whether members of the families managed without

it was homemade or ready-made. At the and by remaining at home end of the visits there were 759 inventor- during very bad weather, or by using ies for all ages and sizes. Some of the their heavy wraps and hats for protec- inventories of clothing owned were much larger and more expensive than the ma- t/There were more men in the poorest clrcs^- jority. Others lacked certain heavy gar- ed group than women; more women in the midclle dressed group than men. The reasons ments needed for comfort in the coldest for this were: (1) Women can be well dressed weather. The middle group of 348 in- on less clothing than men. They can make dividuals which had enough warm cloth- their expenditures go farther by getting material ing and which did not spend exceeding- and making clothes at home. (2) Men do work which is harder on clothing. (3) Men have ly large amounts, was taken as a guide occasion to wear dress clothing more often. to what suitably clothed individuals in The fact that the\ have to go out for business socially active farm families have on hand reasons, even though they do not have much and wear. This middle group of 348 in- clothing, may make them more willing to go on less. Or, the fact that they are less "clothes dividuals was divided into 11 small- conscious" than women and girls may make er groups based on sex and activity of the more of them willing to participate socially with individuals: 76 farmers (heads of fam- less than the average amount of clothing. MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 7

tion. The fact that the majority (about placed yearly depends on what other three-fifths) owned automobiles, or needs there are for the individual and trucks or busses, made raincoats less for the whole family. In a few cases necessary. The men, grown boys, and a choice of garments is given. Then high school boys had rubber de- in the total is shown the minimum and sirable for farm work during bad weather, maximum cost for the year's clothing pur- as well as for fishing and hunting. The chases. other groups with the exception of grown When garments not purchased for the girls high school girls did not own and individual were found in the majority of rubber . Grown girls and high the wardrobes or typical supplies of the school girls may have owned rubbers group, they were added at the bottom of more often, because the soles of their the table in a footnote. Garments not were thinner than those of their purchased included new gifts, second- mothers and younger brothers and sisters. hand gifts (that had been used before Most school boys, grown boys, and men they were given), hand-downs, and gar- did not have special garments for night- ments made from old materials or sacks, wear. This is one place where these all articles for which there was no cost. wardrobes might need im.provement. A change of garments at night might mean TYPICAL WARDROBES OF greater cleanliness especially if is MEN AND BOYS done only once a week. Loose fitting, Clothing Supplies of Men comfortable garments made especially for Typical clothing supplies for men in- allow the wearer to get the best cluded 20 different items: 2 kinds kind of rest. of headwear, 2 kinds of wraps, a wool As will be noted, the number of gar- , cotton and , cotton ments on hand is divided into homemade work and other cotton , heavy

and ready-made, for women and girls, and lightweight cotton underwear, cotton preschool boys and infants. Many gar- for everyday, rayon socks for dress, ments for these groups are usually made work and dress shoes, rubber boots, hand- at home, but for the other boys and the kerchiefs, ties, belts and work gloves men the practice was to buy everything (table 1 and figure 1). ready-made. Costs for the homemade gar- Headwear consisted of two felt hats ments include money spent for materials and either a straw field or a . and findings, not putting a value on the One felt hat was bought each year and

time it took the homemaker to do the saved for "best." The one from the sewing. As had been stated before, costs year before was used for everyday. If a listed in the tables are not what the fam- straw field hat was worn for work dur-

ilies actually spent on clothing, but what ing the summer, it lasted for 1 year, similar garments, material and findings while a cap was replaced only once in would cost this fall of 1942. 3 years.

Next in the tables is shown the num- As a heavy for best, a or

ber of each kind of garment which is an was chosen. The jacket

purchased in 1 year (replacement dur- might be of wool, corduroy or leather, mg year). Of course, one cannot buy one- with prices ranging from $3.50 for the third of a or cap, but one can buy wool and corduroy to |7.50 for the a coat or a cap every 3 years. That leather. They were replaced every 3 is what the fractions mean. The year years, while lasted 10 years. for buying garments which are not re- No doubt were used more often PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSLSSIPPI FARM FAMILY

Figure 1. Typical clothing supplies of men showing kind and number of garments on hand. MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 9

for knockabout and overcoats were savea fifth year. They were moderately priced, for special occasions and used less. had one pair of trousers, and were worn Another wrap, worn for work and for social occasions during most of the sometimes for knockabout, might be one year. During the warmest weather, cot- of the following: a lined ( ton trousers and lightweight cotton shirts jacket), an unlined jumper, a part wool were worn. Men usually had three pairs or a wool sweater. Lined jump- of cotton trousers and three lightweight ers, with an average cost of $2.00, and cotton shirts, two of each being purchas- wool , $3.50, would usually last ed each year. 4 years. A part wool sweater, costing For work, two pairs of overalls and SI. 80, would last three years. The un- three cotton shirts were kept on hand, all lined jumper, at $1.10, would be worn bought during the year. Sometimes, of 2 years. Thus, figurmg on the cost course, old cotton or wool trousers and over several years, the lined jumper would suit were worn for work. Rubber be the most economical purchase, pro- boots and work gloves were also part of

vided, of course that it was used for 4 the work attire of these men. years. It may take a good deal of mend- There were different types of footwear,

ing before that time is up, but a good for dress and for work. Dress shoes (or homemaker always knows how to use "" as they were often called) last- pieces of old overalls to cover up worn ed 2 years and were generally worn places on sleeves and such. with rayon socks. Work shoes usually

Wool were generally bought every lasted only 1 year and were worn with

Table 1. Typical wardrobes of farmers, showing number and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements Garments on hand Replacements during year Garment* Cost per Number** garment Number Total cost dollars dollars

Hats, felt .. 2 2.14 1 2.14

Hats, straw, or cap, homewear 1 .69 1/2 .35

Heavy jacket, leather, wool, or corduroy, 1 J 5.49 /1/3 /1.83

or overcoat ! 1 12.75 \I/10 \1.28

Suit, wool 1 18.95 1/5 3.79

Jumper, cotton or wool, or sweater .... 1 2.69 1/3 .90 Trousers, cotton 3 1.59 2 3.18 Overalls 2 1.26 2 2.52 Shirts, heavy cotton 3 .89 3 2.67 Shirts, other cotton 3 1.39 2 2.78 Union suits, heavy cotton knit 2 .98 .98

Underwear, lightweight, either one piece or 2 .50 1 .50 shirts and (.25 each) Socks, cotton for everyday 3 .18 3 .54 Socks, rayon 3 .25 3 .75

Shoes, work 1 2.75 r 2.75

Shoes, dress 1 3.35 1/2 1.68

Boots, rubber 1 2.98 1/4 .75 Handkerchiefs 6 .08 5 .40

Ties . . ... 2 .79 1 .79

Belts 1 .89 1/4 .23

Gloves, work 1 .55 1 .55

Total cost for year 29.53 - 30.08

*These men had in addition 1 cotton , 3 handkerchiefs and 2 ties received as gifts. **A11 clothing ready-made. 10 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSLSSIPPI FARM FAMILY cotton socks (or no socks during warm Overcoat, or heavy jacket. Wool suit (or cotton trousers and shirt in weather.) warm weather.) supplies of under- Men economized on Dress shoes, ravon socks. wear. Four sets, two heavy and two Clothes worn for work are older and hght (either one piece or sets of under- rougher than those worn for town. Best shirts and shorts) were kept on hand, one and most expensive clothes are worn for suit of each kind being bought each year. church. The smaller the town, the more Boys preferred the sets of and alike are clothes for work and for town; shorts, while many of the men used one- the larger the town the more alike are piece underwear. clothes for town and for church. Best A brief description of the clothes and church clothes (or "Sunday usually worn by men for various occasions clothes") are the same (See figures 5, 6 follows: and 7 for costumes of men on various oc- For Work casions.) An old felt hat, or a straw hat or cap. A sweater, jumper or jacket. Clothing Supplies of Grown Boys Blue denim overalls and heavy cotton shirts. Typical clothing supplies for grown Work shoes, cotton socks. Work gloves and boots, when needed. boys included 20 different items: For Town 2 kinds of headwear, 1 kind of wrap, Felt hat or a cap, a wool suit, both wool and cotton trous- A heavy jacket. ers, overalls, cotton work shirts and other Cotton trousers and shirt. cotton shirts, undershirts and shorts, cot- Dress shoes, rayon socks. For Church ton socks for everyday and rayon socks Felt hat. tor dress, work and dress shoes, rubber

Table 2. Typical wardrobes of grown boys, showing number and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements. Garments on hand Replacements during year Garment* Cost per 1 Number** garment Number Total cost | dollars dollars

Hats, felt : 1.95 1 1.95

Hats, straw, or cap, homewear 1 .69 .69 facket, leather or other 1 4.98 1/4 1.25 Suit, wool 1 16.75 1/2 8.38 Trousers, cotton 3 1.59 2 3.18

Trousers, wool or part wool 2 2.94 1 2.94 Overalls 2 1.26 2 2.52

Shirts, heavy cotton 2 .79 2 1.59 .

Shirts, other cotton - - 3 .98 2 1.96 Undershirts 3 .25 3 .75 Shorts 3 .25 3 .75

Socks, heavy cotton : - 3 .18 3 .54 Socks, rayon 3 .25 3 .75

Shoes, work 1 2.49 1 2.49 Shoes, dress 2 3.48 2 6.96

Boots, rubber or le'ather 1 4.49 1/2 2.25 Handkerchiefs 5 .08 5 .40 Ties 3 .79 2 1.59

Belts 2 .59 1 .59

Gloves, work 1 .55 1 .55 Total cost for year 40.87

*Had in addition 3 handkerchiefs, 2 ties, 1 and 2 pairs of socks received as gifts. **A11 clothing ready-made. .

MISSISSIPPI AGRICULIURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 11

boots, handkerchiefs, ties, belts, and work of replacement of men's clothing during gloves (table 2). Their clothing differed the year was about $30. from their fathers' in quantity on hand A brief description of the costumes and amount bought in a year's time, rath- usually worn by grown boys for various er than in type of garment. The men, occasions follows: for instance, wore their wool suits for For work Cap or straw 5 years, the grown boys for 2 years. hat. Jacket. Grown boys had two pairs of dress shoes Blue denim overalls and heavy cotton shirts. a year; men had a new pair of dress shoes Work shoes, cotton socks. every other year. Work gloves and boots, when needed. For Town The total' cost of replacement during Felt hat or cap.* the year for grown boys' clothing ($40.87) Jacket. Trousers and shirt. was greater than that for any of the oth- Dress shoes, rayon socks. er 10 groups. The number of social For Church activities in which they participated was Felt hat.* greater, too. Such activities included at- Wool suit, cotton shirt (Trousers and shirt in warm weather) tendance at preaching, young people s Dress shoes, rayon socks. unions, Sunday School, singings, picnics, ball-games, home entertainments, and the *The grown boy often goes bareheaded. Hats like. They participated in social activi- serve as protection in bad weather. ties on an average of four times a week. Clothing of High Scho'ol Boys Men had an average social participation Typical clothing supplies for high of three times a week. The total cost school boys included 18 different

Table 3. Typical wardrobes of high school boys, showing number and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements. Garments on hand Replacements during year Garment* Cost per Number** garment Number Total cost dollars dollars

Hats, felt 1 1.95 1/2 .97 Hats, straw, or cap, homewear — .59 1 .59 Jacket, wool or leather — 1 4.98 1/2 2.49 Suit, wool 13.50 1/2 6.75 Trousers, cotton 3 1.39 2 2.78 Overalls — 2 I.IU 1 1.10 Shirts, heavy cotton 2 .79 2 1.58 Shirts, other cotton 3 .98 2 1.96

Undershirts '. 3 .25 3 .75 Shorts 3 .25 3 .75 Socks, cotton 2 .18 2 .36 Socks, rayon 3 .25 3 .75

Shoes, work 1 2.19 1 2.19

Shoes, dress - 1 3.35 3.35 Boots, rubber or leather 3.69 1/3 1.23

Handkerchiefs . ..IZ. 4 .08 4 .32 Ties 2 .49 2 .98 Belts 2 .45 .45 Total cost for year 29.35

*These boys had in addition 1 pair of cotton trousers, 1 shirt, 2 handkerchiefs, 3 ties and

1 belt made from old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments for which there was no cost. **A]1 clothing ready-made. Figure 2. Garments in wardrobes of high school boys showing kind and number of garments on hand. .

MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 13

items: 2 kinds of headwear, 1 kind Work and dress shoes, rayon and cotton socks. For Church of wrap, a wool suit, cotton trousers, over- Felt hat.* alls, cotton work shirts and other cotton Wool suit, cotton shirt (trousers and shirt in shirts, undershirts and shorts, cotton socks warm weather) for everyday and rayon socks for dress, Dress shoes, rayon socks. work and dress shoes, rubber boots, hand- *The high school boy often goes bareheaded. kerchiefs, ties, and belts (table 3 and fig- Hats serve as protection in bad weather. ure 2). The high school boy had fewer work Clothing of Grammar School Boys clothes and not so many dress clothes Typical clothing supplies for grammar as did the grown boy. Because he at- school boys were less than for their fath- tended school he had less need of work ers or older brothers. Their wardrobes shirts, overalls, and work gloves. He included 14 garments: 1 kind of did not wear overalls to school as did headwear—a cap—2 kinds of wraps, his younger brother (figure 8). The cotton and other trousers, overalls, heavy high schools were often located in town, and light cotton shirts, heavy and light- and town boys do not wear overalls to weight union suits, cotton socks for all school. The high school boy dressed to occasions, work or school shoes and dress meet his social setting—the town. shoes and belts. Their ties and handker- High school boys had fewer dress chiefs were received as gifts (table 4). clothes than did grown boys and paid The clothing supplies of grammar somewhat less for these garments. High school boys were similar to those of men, school boys, of course, less often had grown boys and high school boys, in that money of their own. They had one pair they were purchased ready-made. They of dress shoes to the grown boys two. were, however, more limited in variety High school boys participated on an av- than tjiose of the older group. Grammar erage in three or four social activities school boys did not own a wool suit or a week. This is less than the participa- boots. of the boys "wished they tion of the older group. Some did a suit," but this desire was not The clothing of the high school boy own usually granted for it was thought that was more similar to that of his grown purchasing the first wool suit could be brother and father than to that of his delayed until high school days when the grammar school brother. His wardrobe boy would go out with the girls. The contained a wool suit and boots—marks fact that they outgrow clothing so rapid- of growing up. The total cost of re- placement of his clothing during the year ly deterred many parents from making was about the same as that of his father. this purchase. Again, grammar school A brief description of the costumes boyi are "rough on clothing." usually worn by high school boys for That clothing standards are different various occasions follows: for grammar school and high school boys

For Farm Work is indicated by the fact that social partici- Cap or straw hat. pation of grammar school boys was about Jacket. the same as for high school boys: 3 to 4 Overalls. times a week. They could participate as Heavy cotton shirt. Work shoes, cotton socks. often with less costly wardrobes. Total BootSj when needed. cost of replacing their clothing averaged For School and Town only $15 a year. Felt hat or cap.* Perhaps the Jacket. greatest difference in the Trousers and shirt. clothing of grammar school and high 14 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MLSSISSIPPl FARM FAMILY

Table 4. Typical wardrobes of grammar school boys, showing numbcB and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements.

= Garments on hand Replacements during year

Garment* I Cost per i • garment Total cost Number* ! Number dollar* dollars

Cap - 1 .69 I .69 Jacket, wool or corduroy _ 1 2.19 1/2 1.10 Sweater, or other wrap 1 1.75 1/2 .88

Trousers, cotton 1 1.15 1 1.15

Trousers, other . 1 2.05 1/2 1.03 Overalls 3 .86 2 1.72

Shirts, heavy cotton 2 .65 . 2 1.30

Shirts, other cotton - - L .72 1.44 Union suits, heavy 2 .67 .67 Union suits, lightweight, one piece or 2 .36 .72 shorts and shirts (.18 each) Socks, cotton 4 .18 .72

Shoes, dress 1 1.89 1.89

Shoes, school or work 1 1.84 1.84

Belts 1 .45 1/2 .23 Total cost for year 15.38

*These boys had in addition 1 handkerchief, 1 tie, received as gifts. **A11 clothing ready-made.

school boys is in their school clothing usually worn by grammar school boys (figure 8). The grammar school boy for various occasions follows: usually wears overalls to school; his high For Farm Work, or At Home school brother wears trousers. Overalls Cap.* Sweater. are the work of farmers and Overalls. all farm boys would ordinarily wear this Cotton shirt. costume to school. But, when they at- Work or school shoes and cotton socks.** tend schools with a number of sons of For School or Town business, professional and clerical workers Cap.* Sweater or jacket. who wear trousers to school, they follow Overalls (trousers and shirt sometimes). this practice also. More high schools School or dress shoes,** cotton socks. than grammar schools attended by farm- For Church ers' children are located in urban areas. Cap.* Since grammar school boys are less clothes Jacket. Trousers and cotton shirt. conscious than high school boys, perhaps Dress shoes, cotton socks. they care less whether they wear overalls or trousers to school. Overalls are not *Go bareheaded most of the time. Cap serves ordinarily for dress, worn although some as protection in bad weather. of the younger grammar school boys do **Sometm'ies go barefooted to school or town; wear corduroy overalls for dress. often go barefooted at home, during warm weather. This is probably an excellent practice The fact that consolidated schools many from the standpoint of health and should be are in town and that children of rural encouraged. families go to such schools may mean Clothing of Preschool Boys that lack of the "accepted" clothing Typical clothing supplies for preschool causes some children not to go to or boys (2 through 5 years of age) included linish high school. a cap, a wrap (jacket or sweater), wash A brief description of the costumes suits, overalls and coveralls, shirts (light MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 15

Table 5. Typical wardrobes of preschool boys, showing number and costs of garments on han/I and of year's replacements. Garments on Cost of Replacement hand Garment during year Garment* Home- Ready- Home- Ready- Home- Ready- All 1 1 1

made 1 made made made made made | | number dollars number dolla

Cap, heavy 0 1 0 .42 0 1 .42 Jacket (wool or corduroy)

or sweater 0 1 0 1.19 1.19 Wash suits 0 2 0 .85 .85

Overalls, corduroy 0 1 0 .98 .98

Coveralls, cotton 0 1 0 .54 .54 Overalls, denim 0 2 0 .56 1.12

Shirts, cotton (1 light, 1 heavy)—. 2 0 .19 0 .38 Union suits, cotton knit 0 2 0 .55 .55

Pajamas, flannelette I 0 .58 0 .58

Pajamas, lightweight cotton 1 0 .58 0 .58 Socks, cotton 0 3 0 .15 .45

Shoes 0 I 0 1.19 _L19_

Total cost for year 8.83

"These boys had in addition 1 pair of overalls, I shirt, 1 pair of heavy unions, 1 pair of socks,

made from old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments fior vvhicH^ there was no cost. and heavy weight), union suits, pajamas, coming of age, school age. shoes and socks (table 5). Preschool boys more often had hand- The clothing supply of this group dif- downs and garments made from old ma- fered greatly from that of grown boys terials than did the other groups. Their and school boys. It was more limited clothing required less material than did in quantity and contained more home- clothing for their older brothers. The made and more hand-downs than did unworn part of an old garment of their clothing of other groups. Because pre- fathers would furnish enough material school boys were at home more than the lo make a new garment for them. older boys, they could manage with few- One type of garment which preschool er wraps and fewer shoes than older boys. boys owned that was not owned by men \n fact, many of them went barefooted and older boys was nightwear. This may the greater part of the year. The yearly be a carry-over from infancy when fre- replacement cost of their clothing was quent changes are thought to be more around $9.00. necessary. No information was obtained concern- A brief description of the costumes ing the social participation of preschool usually worn by preschool boys for vari- boys, as their social participation depend- ous occasions follows: ed in the main on the social participation Home Clothes of their mothers. Women, averaging an Sweater. attendance at two to three activities a Blue denim overalls or coveralls.

Shoes* and socks. - . . week, participated less than did men. - Dress Clothes ' Clothing of men and boys was, as a Cap. rule, but wardrobes of the ready-made, Jacket or sweater. majority of preschool boys contained shirts Corduroy overalls (winter). and pajamas made at home. Such gar- Wash suits (summer). Shoes* and cotton socks. ments can be made at home very easily, oftentimes scraps of material. from A *ln warm weather go barefooted most of the ready-made shirt is perhaps one mark of cime. 16 PLANNINCJ Cl.OTHF.S TOR TtlF, MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY

TYPICAL WARDROBES OF done without gloves. For a few of her WOMEN AND GIRLS tasks, however, she really needs gloves, as for instance, pruning berry vines, and Farm Homemakers' Clothing for these, she might pick up a pair of Typical clothing supplies for farm her husband's or older son's gloves. women included 20 different items: were also a part of the work 2 kinds of headwear; 2 kinds of equipment of women. These were gen- wraps, rayon, cotton best and cotton erally made from sacks or old material house , aprons, cotton and rayon and involved no money cost. 'slips, lightweight and heavyweight , It is interesting to note that the most cotton and rayon , cotton and ray- expensive garment in the wardrobes of on hose, dress and work shoes, handker- men and women was replaced at the chiefs, and purses (table 6 and figure 3). same frequency, every 5 years. These The number of garments on hand and garments were the wool suit of men and frequency of replacement of garments did the wool coat of women. not differ greatly for men and women; The greatest difference in the ward- especially was this true of work garments. of men and women was in the total Both had a new pair of work shoes each cost of replacement. The cost was for year. The man had two new pairs of women $19.37 (table 6); for men about overalls each year, the woman two new $30 (table 1). There were at least three house dresses. The man had work gloves, reasons for this difference in cost. In the the woman did not. Much of the farm first place, wardrobes of women contain- work done by the woman can be best ed a number of homemade garments,

Table 6. Typical wardrobes of farm homemakers, showing number and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements.

Garments on Cost of Replacement hand Garment during year Garment* All Home - Ready- Home- Ready- Home- Ready- 1 1 1 de made made 1 made ma made made J f

number • dollars number dollars

Hat, felt 0 I 0 1.95 0 1/3 .65

Hat, straw 0 1 0 1.29 0 1/2 .65

Coat, heavy without fur 0 1 0 9.98 0 1/5 2.00

Sweater or jacket ..... 0 1 0 2.19 0 1/4 .55

Dresses, rayon - 0 2 0 2.98 0 1 2.98

Dicsst>, cotton best 2 0 .80 U 1 0 .80 Dresses, cotton house 3 0 .65 0 2 0 1.30

Slips, cotton 2 0 35 0 1 0 .35

Slips, rayon 0 1 0 .98 0 1 .98

Nightgowns, cotton flannel 1 0 .65 0 1/2 0 .33

Nightgowns, lightweight cotton .... 1 0 .65 0 1/2 0 .33 Panties, cotton 0 2 0 .33) Pannes, rayon knit 0 2 0 .39) 3 1.08 Hose, rayon 0 2 0 .65 0 2 1.30 Hose, cotton 0 2 0 .23 0 2 .46 Shoes, dress 0 1 0 2.59 0 1 2.59

Sh(jes, work 0 1 0 2.29 0 1 2.29 Handkerchiefs 0 6 0 .08 0 5 .40

Purses ..... 0 1 0 1.00 0 1/3 .33 Total cost for year 19.37

*These women had in addition 1 rayon dress, 1 cotton house dress, 2 aprons, 1 cotton , 4 handkerchiefs and 1 pair of hose made from sacks or old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments for which there was no cost. MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 17

Figure 3. Garments in wardrobes of farm homemakers showing kind and number of garments on hand. 18 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSLSSIPPI FARM FAMILY

which generally involve a lower money sweaters, a skiit and , rayon, cot- cost than do ready-made garments. All ton best and cotton house dresses, cotton the cotton dresses and slips owned by and rayon slips, brassieres, nightgowns women were made at home. Summer and and pajamas, cotton and rayon panties, winter nightgowns were also homemade. 4 types of shoes, galoshes, rayon hose, The money cost of no homemade gar- socks, handkerchiefs, and purses (table ment was as much as one dollar, and most of the homemade garments cost con- The wardrobes of grown girls were siderably less thpr> a dollar. larger than were those of all other groups infants. contained Another explanation for lower cost of except They most frequently 62 garments. Their yearly women's wardrobes than of men's was the more frequent purchase of headwear and cost of clothing replacement was con- less than that of outer garments, such as jackets or sweat- siderably grown boys as compared with $-11). One reason ers by men. The other reason for the (|31 lower cost of replacement of wardrobes for this is that the wardrobes of grown of women was the greater number of girls had a number of homemade gar- garments without money cost in ward- ments. Eight of their nine dresses were robes of women, especially more gifts, new homemade. Their and skirts as or second-hand. Women ordinarily get well as their cotton slips, gowns, and pa- more gifts from their relatives or grown jamas were made at home. children living away from home than do The most expensive garment in the men. Women replaced their dress shoes wardrobes of boys, a woolen suit, was more often than did men, but as men replaced every other year. A heavy paid more per pair, the total cost of shoes woolen coat, the most expensive article tor women in the typical wardrobe was in the wardrobes of grown girls was re- only a little greater. placed every fourth year. Adult farm A brief description of the costumes girls living at home have less money of usually worn by women for various oc- their own for clothing than do adult casions follows: farm boys. It is not customary for farm- For Work ers to give a portion of the crop or pay Sweater or jacket. regular wage to their daughters as they Cotton house dresi.. Work shoes often do their sons, nor do girls have Cotton hose. as much opportunity for part-time work. as needed. Thus, grown boys have more to spend For Town and Church on clothing than do grown girls. Even Feh or straw hat. then, girls Coat. grown spend more for cloth- Rayon or cotton street dress. ing than do other female groups. This Dress shoes. in spite of the fact that the number of Rayon hose. social activities in which they engage There is little difference in costumes during a week—an average of three—is of women for town and for church, al- less than the average number engaged though cotton dresses are more often in by their younger school-going sisters. worn to town than to church. Women Clothing standards demand more for a olitn go to town bareheaded, while hats young lady ready for marriage than for arc worn to church (figures 5, 6 and 7). school girls. Clothing Supplies of Grown Girls Clothmg standards are also more de- Typical clothing supplies for grown manding for grown girls than for mar- girls included 26 different items: 2 ried women. Although women engaged kinds of headwear, a heavy coat, 2 in nearly as many social activities as MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 19

Figure 5. A farm family in their work clothes. grown girls, the)' had less clothing and Woo! coat or sweater, and blouse. Rayon or cotton wore their garments for longer periods. dress. Shoes, high heels. Grown girls had new felt and straw Rayon hose. hats each year. Women had a new felt hat every third year arid a new straw *In\entories of girls with more garments and more expensive garments than the average con- hat every other year. Women had two tained slack suits. The middle group oftentimes new pairs of shoes a year. Grown girls wore the overalls of the men of the family when had three pairs. Women had a new doing farm work. At the present time, with sweater every fourth year; grown girls the war emphasis on work garments for women, group might show every year. Women had four dresses they wardrobes of this middle slack suits. wore for best; grown girls had six. **Often go bareheaded. brief description of the us- A costumes Dress for town was about the same as ually worn by grown girls for various oc- for church or best, except best clothes casions follows: were more likely to include the newest For Work rayon or cotton dress and high heeled Sweater. Cotton house dress.* shoes. Oxfords, socks. Clothing of High School Girls For Town Felt or straw hat.** Typical clothing supplies for high Wool coat or sweater, skirt and blouse. school girls included 17 items: a Cotton street dress. dress or rayon coat, skirts and blouses, a sweater, cot- Shoes, low or medium heels, and socks. ton and rayon dresses, cotton and rayon For Church Felt or straw hat. slips, brassieres, pajamas, rayon panties, ^

20 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY

Table 7. Typical wardrobes of grown girls, showing number and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements. Garments on Cost of Replacement hand Garment during year * All Garment Home - Ready- Home- Ready- Home- Ready- 1 1 made made made 1 made made made |

number dollars . number dollars n 1 Hat, felt 0 1.35 J 1.35 n 0 1 Hat, straw dress J 0 1.29 1 1.29 n Coat, hcavv without fur I 0 9.98 yj0 2.50

Skirt, ra\()n 0 1.50 Q ] 0 1.50 n Sweater, wool 0 ] 0 1.49 u .74 Sweater, cotton or part wool - 0 I 0 1 1(1 VJ I /? .55 Blouse. ra\()n, satin or crepe..^ 1 0 1.30 0 1 0 1.30 9 1 Dresses, rayon 2.00 2.98 1 1/ 3.49 Dresses, cotton best 3 un .70 0 2 n 1.40 Dresses, cotton house 3 0 .65 Q 2 u 1.30 n 2 Slips, cotton 3 u •J J n J un 1.05 n 1 Slips, rayon 0 2 u 79 0 i .79 Brassieres 0 2 0 .25 0 2 .50

Ni

Pajamas, cotton print 1 0 ,65 0 1/2 0 .33 Panties, cotton knit 0 2 0 .29 0 2 .58 Panties, rayon knit — 0 4 0 .30 0 4 1.20

Oxfords, low heels 0 1 0 1.98^

Shoes, summer, low or medium ) heeis 0 0 2.45) 0 3 6.68 Shoes, dark, high heels 0 0 2.59) Shoes, other 0 0 1.98)

Galoshes 0 0 1.19 0 1 1.19

Hose, rayon 0 0 .65 0 1 .65 Socks 0 6 0 .17 0 6 L02 Handkerchiefs 0 6 0 .08 0 5 .40

Purses _____ 0 2 0 .85 0 1 1.85

Total cost for year 31.31

*Thcse women had in addition 1 )rassiere, 1 rayon slip. 1 or pair of pajamas, 3 rayon

p.uities, 4 handkerchiefs. and 1 lair of hose received ; IS gifts. . 1

oxfords, dark and light dress shoes, socks, of her mother was in kind of garments. galoshes and handkerchiefs (table 8). Wardrobes of women contained hats, The high school girl had more clothes night-gowns, cotton panties, both cotton than her mother, but not as many as the and rayon hose, and a purse, not in ward- robes of girls. of grown girl. Her wardrobe contained in high school Wardrobes the majority of cases 50 garments, that high school girls contained skirts and of the mother 43. More of her blouse;;, brassieres, pajamas, socks, galo- substantial clothing consisted of hand- shes, not in wardrobes or women.-'^ It downs and gifts than did that of her would seem that even styles of under- social for mother or her out-of-school sister. Be- wear have value the high cause she was smaller, some of the gar- ments of these as well as other relatives Only 43 percent of the women in this mid- could be cut down and made for her. dle group owned brassieres, 49 percent corsets This explains the lower replacement cost and girdles. See "Clothing Supplies of Socially of her wardrobe per year, $23. Participating White Farm Families of Missis- sippi," Alice Bowie and Dorothy Dickins, Miss. Another difference the ward- between Agri. Exp. Sta. Tech. Bull. No. 30, (1942), of the high school girl and that pg. 30. J

MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 21

Table 8. Typical wardrobes of high school girls, showing number and costs of garments on hand and of year's replacements. Garments on Cost of Replacement hand Garment during year All Garment* - Ready- Home- Ready- Home 1 Home- Ready- i 1

made made made 1 made made made I | number dollars number dollars 7 8Q Coat, heavy without fur 0 I u 0 1/2 3.95

Skirt, rayon 1 0 1. 1 u 1 0 1.15 n A 1 Sweater, wool or part wool 0 u u 1 1.29

Blouse, cotton broadcloth 1 0 .35 0 1/2 0 .18

Dresses, rayon 1 1 1.80 2.19 1/2 1/2 2.00

Dresses, cotton 5 1 .70 1. 00 3 3.10

Slips, cotton broadcloth 2 0 .30 0 1 0 .30 Slips, rayon 0 2 0 .69 0 2 1.38 Brassieres 0 2 0 .25 0 2 .50

Pajamas, cotton print 2 0 .60 0 1 0 .60 Panties, rayon knit 0 4 0 .30 0 3 .90 Socks 0 6 0 .17 0 6 1.02 Oxfords, low heels, dark 0 0 1.98 0 1.98 Oxfords, low heels, light 0 1 0 1.98 0 1.98

Other shoes, medium heels, dress.. 0 1 0 2.29 0 1 2.29

Galoshes 0 1 0 1.19 0 1/2 .60

Handkerchiefs ..... 0 6 0 .08 0 6 .48 Total cost for year 23.40

*These girls had in addition 1 sweater, 1 rayon dress, 1 cotton dress, I skirt, 1 blouse,. 2

handkerchiefs, 1 brassiere, 1 pair rayon panties and 1 pair of socks made from old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments for which there was no cost.

school girl, pajamas and rayon panties high school girls wore their coats more, being preferred to nightgowns and cot- but because they outgrew them. ton panties. A brief description of the costumes us- The high school girl, averaging an at- ually worn by high school girls for vari- tendance at three to four social activities ous occasions follows: per week, participated more in social ac- For Home or Farm Work tivities than did her mother. The aver- Sweater. Cotton dress.* age for women was one less activity per Oxfords and socks. week. For high school girls there were, For School or Town of course, many activitiies in connection Coat or sweater, blouse, skirt. with the school, such as clubs and ball Cotton dress (rayon dress sometimes). Oxfords and socks. games, in addition to church and agricul- For Church** tural clubs attended by other members of C(jat or sweater, blouse, skirt. the family. Rayon or cotton dress. The clothing supplies of high school Dress shoes and socks. girls were not as varied as those of grown *Sometimes used the overalls of men of the girls, but the replacement of the more family for farm work. substantial garments was as frequent or **The more reduced the family circumstances more so. They had about the same num- or the larger the town ui which the school is located, the more likely are school or town and ber of new dresses, sweaters and new church or best clothes to be the same. shoes each year as did grown girls. They had a new coat every other year, while Grammar School Girls' Clothing grown girls had a new one every 4 Typical clothing supplies for grammar years. This was not only because the school girls included 15 items: a cap, 22 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY

Figure 6. This family is dressed for church.

Table 9. Typical wardrobes of grammar school girls, showing number and costs of garments on haiid and of year's replacements. Garments on Cost of Replacement hand Garment during year Garment* All Home - Ready- Home- Ready- Home- Ready- 1 1

made made made 1 made made made

number do liars number dollars

Cap 0 1 0 .89 0 1/2 .45

Coat, heavv without fur 0 1 0 4.98 0 1/2 2.49

Sweater, wool or part wool 0 1 (J 1.29 0 1 1.29

Dress, ravon 1 0 1.25 0 1 0 1.25

Dress, cotton 5 1 .45 1.00 4 1 2.80

Skirt, cotton 1 0 .65 0 1 0 .65

Slip, cotton broadcloth ._. ^ 0 .30 0 2 0 .60

Slip, rayon 0 1 0 .60 0 1 .60

Pajamas, cotton flannel 1 0 .55 0 1/2 0 .27

Pajamas, print or broadcloth 1 0 .50 0 1/2 0 .25

Panties, cotton 1 1 .11 .25 1 1 .36

Panties, rayon knit _ 0 2 0 .20 0 2 .40 Socks 0 5 0 .17 0 5 .85 Oxfords, low heels 0 2 0 1.98 0 2 3.96 Total cost for year 16.23

*These girls had in addition 1 rayon dress, 1 cotton dress, 1 pair of cotton panties, and 2 handkerchiefs made from old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments for which there was no cost. MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372

ure 4. Garments in wardrobes of grammar school girls showing kind and number of on hand. 24 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY a coat, a sweater, rayon and cotton dress- cial activities a week, but clothing de- es, a skirt, cotton and rayon slips, light mands for the younger girls seemed less. and heavy pajamas, cotton and rayon Home-sewing played an important part panties, oxfords, socks and handkerchiefs in the wardrobes of grammar school girls, (table 9 and figure 4). as it did of high school girls; their skirts, dresses (except one cotton dress), The wardrobes of grammar school girls cotton were smaller than those of high school slips, and pajamas were all homemade. Also included in their clothing supply girls. They had 9 dresses, while high were cotton panties made from new and school girls had 10. They had one old material (sometimes iacks, or scraps sweater to the high school girl's two, one left over from dresses). skirt to the high school girl's two, two pairs of shoes to the high school girl's Wardrobes of grammar school girls re- three pairs. Some of the grammar school sembled those of grammar school boys girls, especially the younger ones went in some respects. The total cost of cloth- barefooted at home during the summer ing replacement during the year was time and thus reduced their need for about the same for grammar school girls shoes. The social participation of the ($16.23) and grammar school boys ($15.- two groups of girls was the same, both 38). The number of garments owned by attending on an average three to four so- both groups was about the same. In

Figure 7. This farm family, husband, wife, high school daughter, and grammar school sons arc dressed for town. . —

MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 25

both cases the heavy wrap was replaced Clothing Supplies of Preschool Girls year. every other Both had two new Typical clothing supplies for preschool pairs of shoes each year. boys The had girls (2 through 5 years of age) in- less pair girls, one of socks than the but cluded 13 different items: a cap or they went barefooted more. , a coat, a wool sweater, rayon and Almost all articles of clothing for cotton dresses, overalls or coveralls, slips, girls grammar school were worn for all union suits, undershirts, cotton and rayon occasions away from home, such as coats, panties, shoes and socks (table 10). sweaters, skirts and and dresses, cotton The wardrobes of these preschool girls as well as rayon. The costumes which contained more hand-downs and gar- they at various wore occasions were: ments made from old materials or left- For Home or Farm Work over scraps than did the other groups. Sweater This explains why the cost of yearly re- Cotton dress.* Oxfords and socks.** placement of their clothing was so low which For School or Town $6.55. The main outer garments Cap or beret.*** they wore for best had been made from Coat. other garments requiring time and work Sweater and skirt. from their mothers, but no outlay of Cotton dress (rayon dress somctinies) Oxfords and socks. money. For Church The difference between the clothing of Cap or beret.*** preschool and grammar school girls was Coat. not so marked in number as in type of Sweater and skirt. garments. Preschool girls wore cover- Rayon or cotton dress. grammar Oxfords and socks. alls or overalls frequently; school girls did not. Preschool girls had *Sometimes used the overalls of brothers for union suits, shirts and long sleeved flan- farm work. nel slips in their wardrobes. Such arti- **Go barefooted oftentimes in warm weather. usually ***Cap serves as protection in bad weather. cles of clothing were not found

Table 10. Typical wardrobes of preschool girls, showing number and costsi of garments on hand and of year's replacements. Garments on Cost of Replacement hiand Garment during year Garment* Home- Ready- All - Home- Ready- 1 Home Ready- 1 1

de made made 1 made made 1 made ma number dollars nu mber dollars .20 Cap or beret 0 1 0 .39 0 1/2 .70 Sweater, wool 0 1 0 1.39 0 1/2

1 1.69 Dresses, cotton 4 I .30 .79 3 .30 Overalls or coveralls 0 1 0 .60 0 1/2 Slips, lightweight cotton and flannelette 3 0 .21 0 3 0 .63

Union suits, cotton knit 0 1 0 .49 0 1 .49

Undershirt, cotton knit 0 1 0 .25 0 1 .25 Panties, cotton 0 2 0 .15 0 2 .30

Panties, rayon knit 0 1 0 .19 0 1 .19

Oxfords 0 1 0 1.29 0 1 1.29 Socks and , cotton 0 3 0 .17 0 3 .51 Total cost for year 6.55

*These girls had in addition 1 cap or beret; 1 coat, 3 dresses, 2 cotton and 1 rayon; 1 pair

of overalls or coveralls, 1 pair of panties made from old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments for which there was no cost. 26 PLANNING CLOTHES FOR THE MISSISSIPPI FARM FAMILY

Figure 8. This high school boy and girl and grammar school boy and girl are wearing the typical costumes of their groups.

in wardrobes of grammar school girls. *In warm weather go barefooted most of the time. The garments probably were used for : **Go bareheaded in good weather. sleeping as well as for Clothing Supplies of Infants which would explain the lack of sleep- ing garments listed as such. The suits Typical clothing supplies for infants of underwear were one-piece suits with (boys and girls less than 2 years of age) short legs. included two , two wraps (sweaters, jackets, or coats), dresses or suits, over- Preschool girls had two kinds of cloth- alls or coveralls, cotton slips, undershirts, ing: clothing they wore at home and nightgowns, kimonos or robes, , clothing they wore away from home or socks, shoes or bootees (table 11). for best. A brief description of these costumes follows: While infants had less variety of gar- Home Clothes ments than did older children, they had Sweater. a greater number of garments. Infants Overalls or coveralls or cotton dress. need enough garments in their wardrobes Shoes and socks.* in order that they may be kept clean and Dress Clothes dry. Much of their clothing was given Cap or beret.** or handed down to them. The infant's Coat. clothing is it is Cotton or rayon dress. handed down because out- Shoes and socks. grown before it is worn out. Then, too, MISSISSIPPI AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETIN 372 27

Table 1. Typical wardrobes of infants, showing the number and cost* of garments on hand and of year's replacements. Garments on Cost of Replacement hand Garment during year Garment* Home- Ready- Home- Ready- Ready- All 1

made made made i made made made | number doll ars num ber dollars Cap 0 1 0 .50 0 1 .50

Sweater 0 1 0 1.18 0 1 1.18 Dresses, or suits, cotton 6 0 .23 0 6 0 1.38 Undershirts, cotton knit 0 3 0 .25 0 3 .75 Nightgowns, cotton flannel 7 0 .20 0 2 0 .40 Diapers 0 36 0 1.31 0 30 3.28 Socks 0 3 0 .15 0 3 .45

Shoes, high laced ...... 0 1 0 1.19 0 1 L19 Total cost for year 9.13

*These infants had in addition 1 cap, 1 wrap—sweater, jacket or coat. 1 pair of overalls or

coveralls, 2 dresses or suits, 2 cotton slips, 1 kimono or robe, 1 pair of socks, 1 pair of

shoes or bootees, made from old materials or hand-downs or gifts, all garments for which there was no cost. relatives and friends delight in giving the boys, preschools boys, women (or farm baby a gift. All dresses, slips, night- homemakers), grown girls, high school gowns and robes were made at home. girls, grammar school girls, preschool Infants had two kinds of clothes—dress girls, and infants. Costs of garments on clothes and home clothes. A brief de- hand and cost of yearly replacements are scription of these two types of clothing based on the prices of similar garments follows: listed in the most recent catalogue of a For Home popular mail order house. Sweater or sacque. Garments not purchased for the indiv- Heavier cotton dresses or coveralls. as gifts, second-hand Shoes and socks.* idual, such new For Dress gifts, hand-downs, and garments made Cap. from old materials or sacks, are listed Better wrap (as sweater, sacque, or coat). separately when found in the typical Better dresses or suits. clothing supply. Shoes and socks. Wardrobes of members of socially ac- *In cold weather only. tive families seem to serve as a good basis Summary and Conclusions for checking the clothing choices of one's

The purpose of this report is to show own family. The question might be ask- what clothing members of socially par- ed, "Should choices of social participants ticipating farm families have and the be the only basis for planning clothes.'^" frequency with which it is replaced. Since And the answer is, "No." Whether cloth- clothing serves a social purpose, clothing ing is comfortable, whether it provides of members of socially active farm fam- protection from cold and rain, and whet- ilies should serve as a good guide to other her it is sufficient in quantity for clean- farm families in planning their clothing Hness are important points and must be supplies. checked too. But the thesis of this report

Amount of clothing on hand, and is that clothing serves a social purpose amount bought during the year are listed just as food serves a nutritive purpose for each of 11 groups in such fam- and. therefore, a guide to planning clothes ilies: men (or farm operators), grown needs to be made with due emphasis on boys, high school boys, grammar school the social basis.