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WITH: NEWENGLANDDESTINATIONS BOSTON SUNDAY GLOBE APRIL 16, 2017 | BOSTONGLOBE.COM/TRAVEL

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SWIMRUN: A growing sport that combines running and swimming as teams of two go island hopping in places like and Casco Bay. It’s a lot of work and a lot of fun — with a bit of crazy mixed in.

BY KARI BODNARCHUK | GLOBE CORRESPONDENT

ASCO BAY, Maine — Once the thick veil of fog They moved in pairs, often tethered together with a thin tances and the tides, but I had no idea what to expect during lifted, a horn sounded and hundreds of athletes bungee cord. All told, they would swim 4 miles and run 10 this race, which is what I loved about it.” wearing running shoes and wetsuits leapt into miles as they connected nine islands in Casco Bay. Welcome to Last summer, 240 athletes participated in the Casco Bay Is- C Casco Bay and began swimming — hard. Their the new sport of swimrun. lands Swimrun, the first event of its kind in the United States. goal: To swim from one island to the next, “That’swhatweusedtodowhenwewerekids,”saysJohn Competitors swam anywhere from 270 to 1,700 yards between scrambling out to run across each island where they would Stevens, one of the competitors,who summered on Casco Bay’s islands, and ran between half a mile to just over 4 miles across dash along singletrack trails, follow paved roads by summer Little Diamond Island as a kid, and now lives in Portland with islands. cottages, bushwack through thick brush, or slog their way his family. “I grew up running around all the islands, and row- “The race was all fun with a bit of crazy mixed in there,” says through sand or across scree-covered terrain. ing and swimming between them. . . . I’m familiar with the dis- SWIMRUN, Page M2

TOP: HERBERT KRABEL; ABOVE: ORCA The original swimrun competitors carried backpacks of dry socks and food and other supplies. Today companies are making special gear for the runners/swimmers.

COLOMBIA Inside YOU’RE IN TOP FORM. NOW Cartagena is old world beauty in Technicolor WHAT? Much to taste, hear, and see in walled city We offer post-marathon road races in By Bella English ago to keep marauders out. Today, New that are GLOBE CORRESPONDENT that wall envelopes tourists in an CARTAGENA, Colombia — embrace that seems all the more worth a road trip. When my daughter and I arrived in welcoming since the Colombian M4 Cartagena recently, I half-expected government signed a peace agree- to see camellias dropping from the ment last fall with the rebel group sky, gypsies selling magic carpets, FARC, after de- and a hen laying a hundred golden cades of armed eggs to the sound of a tambourine. An outside conflict. This is, after all, the hometown of shop in Cartagena, on Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who wrote Old Town the country’s Ca- masterpieces of magical realism Cartagena. ribbean coast, was NEW such as “One Hundred Years of Soli- founded in 1533 HAMPSHIRE tude” and “Love in the Time of by the Spanish and has always been CALLING Cholera.” a major port. Because of military But instead, we had to settle for and pirate attacks, it remains the We check out Burdick’s profusions of bougainvillea, side- largest walled city in Central and chocolates in Walpole, walk salesmen with hats and shoes South America. In one epic assault and soak up Hanover’s and bags, and lots of overgrown in 1741, British naval officer Ed- crows in this charming colonial city, ward Vernon brought 186 ships cool vibe. enclosed by a wall built centuries CARTAGENA, Page M2 MEGAN BAILEY M5 M2 Travel Boston Sunday Globe APRIL 16, 2017

Now, in 2017, more than 400 swimrun packed steak dinner. Swimrun is races exist worldwide, including Swit- “It was like the Victorian days — zerland, , , New Zea- bring everything with you and we’ll set a different land, Croatia, and Thailand. The origi- up camp,” says David Thompson of St. nal Ötillö event serves as the world se- Paul, Minn. ries for swimrun, with participants Today, racers bring only what’s nec- island fun from 35 countries. essary, and can choose from special- “You really get to experience a Swe- ized gear created for swimrun athletes. den that no tourist gets to see,” says Gone are the days of surf wetsuits and SWIMRUN McLarty, who has done the Swedish old sneakers with holes drilled in the Continued from Page M1 race twice. “We were running on unin- soles for drainage. Companies such as Erin Hunter of San Diego, who won habited islands, or islands that had Orca now make swimrun-specific wet- the women’s division with her partner, homes but no roads, just unpaved suits that have flexible neoprene mate- Emily Finanger from The Woodlands, trails. Maybe two or three of the is- rial, pockets for stashing energy food, Texas. “There was a lot of climbing lands had paved roads.” a built-in whistle, and front zippers over slippery rocks, dealing with ocean In August 2016, native Mainer Jeff and removable sleeves for cooling off currents, and swimming through beds Cole and Finanger, a pro triathlete and on runs. of sea grass. On one island, we got tan- adventure racer, launched the Casco Icebug, a Swedish company known gled in seaweed and looked like sea Bay Islands Swimrun. “We knew we for its high-traction winter and orien- monsters climbing up onto shore, but were on to something,” says Finanger. teering shoes, makes a trail-meets- we were laughing the whole time.” “We opened the lottery and had more track shoe with super grippy soles that Lars Finanger, founder of Swimrun than 600 applications for 100 spots.” help racers scramble up slippery rocks USA and co-race director for the Casco This year, more than a dozen swimrun and navigate wilderness terrain. These TY STEVENS Bay swimrun, contends that “the most races will take place across the coun- lightweight shoes drain quickly and important element is having a fun, ad- try, in California, North Carolina, have lightweight EVA foam that helps venturous attitude and rolling with the Adds Finanger, “You’re starting at IF YOU SWIMRUN . . . Georgia, New Jersey, and Washington. them float while racers swim. punches. Shit happens,” he says. Point A and going to Point Z, and tak- “For us, it is fantastic to hear about Many athletes use swim paddles for “You’re going to get a bloody elbow ing what nature gives you in between.” SWIMRUN EVENTS the excitement of the sport,” says Lem- extra propulsion and swim buoys to and knee, and you’re going to have to In fact, an appreciation for nature Casco Bay Islands Swimrun mel, from Stockholm, who earned his help keep their legs afloat, and some keep rolling.” and the beauty of the landscape lies at swimrunusa.com, Aug. 13 undergraduate degree from Brown even bring fins. All racers must have a The sport attracts competitive the philosophical heart of this sport. North Carolina Swimrun University, and lived in North Conway waterproof pressure bandage, an in- swimmers, runners, adventure racers, The idea for swimrun traces back to a swimrunnc.com, Oct. 29 for three years. “We wanted to create flatable safety float with a GPS, a com- triathletes, and people drawn to its un- drunken night among friends at a sea- California Swimrun an adventure and nature experience, pass, and a map. predictability. Sign up for a running side resort in UtöVärdshus, Sweden. californiaswimrun.com, May 7 and challenge our racers to step out of “The equipment is designed to race or a and you cover exact As the story goes, four guys walked in- Georgia swimrungeorgia.com, the box a little bit. You can’t control make it safer for you, and to also offset distances and precisely defined routes. to a bar and, many drinks later, came April 23 anything in swimrun because the envi- those shoes you’re dragging behind New Jersey Swimrun garden- With swimrun, athletes swim their up with the brilliant idea of racing ronment changes all the time.” you,” says Finanger. “The lighter, the stateswimrun.com, Aug. 19 best lines from island to island — there each other from one end of the Stock- One of the biggest challenges for better.” are no buoys marking the way — and holm archipelago to the other — a dis- many, however, is having a partner. Racers must also finish the race take currents and conditions into ef- tance of 75 kilometers (about 46 miles) Racers compete in the men’s, women’s, with every piece of equipment and en- fect so they don’t drift off course and — with the losing team having to cover met Michael Lemmel and Mats Skott, or mixed division. Each team has two ergy wrapper they start with: If you add mileage. dinner, drinks, and the hotel for the adventure racers and organizers who people, and those two racers must stay bring swimming fins and decide you “There’s a flag where you get in and losers. agreed to help put together an official within 10 meters (30 feet) of each oth- don’t need them, you still have to carry a flag where you get out on each is- “We were talking about how we’ve swimrun race. They mapped out the er throughout the swim and 100 me- them to the finish — no stashing them land, but the challenge is that there’s traveled around these islands by boat course and staged the first race in ters during each run. under a bush to retrieve later. no exact way to get from Point A to and kayak, but how we’ve never gotten 2006. This time, 10 teams showed up, “Being a swimmer and a triathlete, Many athletes also attach a tether Point B.” says Bridget McCoy, one of to really see a lot of the islands,” says but only two finished. Some still towed I’ve only ever done individual sports,” — typically a thin bungee — between last year’s competitors from St. Paul, Mats Andersson, one of the sport’s dry bags with socks, shoes, and a tow- says McCoy. “Doing something where them, especially during the swim. Minn. “If you’re on the ocean and it’s founders. “The idea was we had to go el. I’m completely dependent on another “It was tricky using it, but it gave really foggy, it’s your job to take out up on the islands so we could see them “People would sit down, dry off person is totally foreign to me.” me peace of mind that we weren’t go- your compass and figure out where along the way.” their feet, put their socks and shoes on, Adds McLarty, “That’s the biggest ing to wander too far apart,” says Ste- you need to go.” Only two teams showed upon race and then start running,” says Mats new aspect of multisport that swimrun vens. On land, racers follow a running day, wearing surf wetsuits and old Skott. “There are 26 islands, so 50 is bringing to the endurance commu- Few rules govern the sport, but the course that’s marked with flagging sneakers, and carrying backpacks with transitions, and they were sitting nity. It’s not you in your own head, it’s ones that do encourage a true sense of tape where possible, or they use their sleeping bags and other supplies. It down for hours. It was more of an ex- you and your teammate relying on sportsmanship and a respect for na- best judgment and a map and compass took them 23 hours to complete the pedition at the beginning, but now it’s each other, and being able to commu- ture. “The spirit of swimrun is Good to make their way over the terrain. distance, including a stop to sleep un- slimmed down to a quick in and out of nicate and work together. It’s impor- Samaritan style,” says Finanger. “If you “There’s no person waving a flag, der a tree. the water.” tant to pick a good teammate, some- see a fellow racer in difficulty, your blowing a whistle, and saying ‘Turn “It was a perfect day and we The idea took off, though, and by one who’s compatible.” race doesn’t matter, you need to stop right here,’” says Sara McLarty, a for- thought, ‘Everyone needs to do this,’” 2012, Lemmel and Skott organized Another aspect that’s evolved in re- and tend to that person.” mer pro triathlete who competed in says Andersson. “It was such a simple three swimrun races in Sweden, and cent years is the gear, or lack thereof. Adds Thompson, “If you want to last year’s Casco Bay race with friend way to see so many places, and ones had to turn away 400 teams (max par- The challenge is to minimize what you enjoy swimrun while it’s still a grass- and Xterraworld champion racer you normally pass by. There were plac- ticipation in each race is 120 teams for take, and make everything count. Dur- roots race, then this is the time to get Misty Becerra. “At one point, Misty es where you thought, ‘I just want to safety reasons and to minimize envi- ing the early races in Sweden, racers out and do it.” and I had to stop and backtrack on sit down and enjoy this beautiful ronmental impact). That year, one of towed dry bags stuffed with back- Peaks Island to make sure we were on place.’” the racers coined the name Ötillö, packs, extra clothes, sleeping bags, and Kari Bodnarchuk can be reached at the right trail.” Andersson and his cohorts soon meaning “island to island” in Swedish. food. One team brought a vacuum- [email protected].

very good, since there’s a history going The beauty back to Spanish rule of exporting the best stuff to Europe. behind But there is good chocolate, and Megan and I spent serious time at the Choco Museo, or the museum of choc- these walls olate, a free self-guided place where exhibition boards explain the choco- late-making process, “from bean to CARTAGENA bar.” We skipped a chocolate-making Continued from Page M1 class but bought several bars and a with 23,000 men to capture the city, couple of chocolate liqueurs in my fa- only to be defeated by a much smaller vorite flavors, one mint and one gin- Spanish force. The Castillo de San Fe- ger. lipe still has an elaborate tunnel sys- We also made a pilgrimage to the tem that allowed soldiers avenues of home of Garcia Marquez, who died in escape, and now welcomes tourists. 2014. We couldn’t see over the high or- Because of its fort and walled city, ange walls. But next door, a boutique Cartagena in 1984 was named a hotel, Makondo, named for the fic- UNESCO World Heritage Site. Some tional town in “Solitude,” has painted Americans may connect Cartagena his beaming visage on its exterior wall, with the hit movie that same year, “Ro- along with his quote: “Ningun lugar mancing the Stone,” where Michael en la vida es mas triste que una cama.” Douglas and Kathleen Turner danced No place in life is more sad than an in the city’s square — though it was empty bed. filmed in Mexico. Because Cartagena’s beaches are Or maybe you remember Cartage- lousy — choppy surf, gritty brown na from the news in 2012 when US Se- sand — we decided to spend a couple cret Service agents were caught in a of days on one of the Rosario Islands. prostitution scandal. God knows what An hour’s boat ride brought us to Isla Garcia Marquez, known locally as Grande and the Hotel San Pedro de “Gabo,” would have done with that. Majagua (we paid about $100 a night, “My heart has more rooms than a MEGAN BAILEY through hotels.com). Here, the Carib- whorehouse,” his lovelorn protagonist bean is smooth, clear, and turquoise, declared in “Cholera.” with sugary sand. There are pelicans Today, Cartagena is two cities: the at the end of our first day of wander- of a hat that has magically appeared door knockers, meant to ward off bad and palm trees and cold rum drinks. Old Town with its narrow cobblestone ing, we found ourselves, totally ran- on your head, or a bracelet on your spirits and let others know who lived There are no high rises on the island, streets and blooming balconies, and domly, outside Alma, where we be- wrist. there: starfish or mermaids indicated no roads and no vehicles, unless you the sprawling metropolis of nearly a came Happy Hour regulars for the Somehow, I acquired a pair of espa- sea merchants, protective dogs indi- count bikes. million people whose skyscrapers next few days. Gabo, who wrote fer- drilles ($10) because I uttered the cated high-ranking military, reptiles One afternoon, we signed up for a seem at odds with the romance of the vently about destiny, would have ap- word: “Later.” The guy took me literal- represented blue bloods. guided walk-and-canoe tour. Some- centro historico.We stuck to the Old proved. Alma’s bartenders mix marga- ly. One afternoon, as we sat at a table Buildings here are painted a rain- how, Fredees, our guide, paddled us Town, and it took our airport cabby, a ritas, mules, and mojitos, and keep tall at the weird KGB restaurant and bar — bow of colors, including purple, gold, through a maze of mangroves, eerie native of Cartagena, a long time to find glasses on the bar filled with fresh with “comrade” mannequins standing coral, blue, green, aqua. They used to and quiet and beautiful. We tied up our hotel. herbs. My coco mojito came with tons guard at the door — a man walked up be white-washed, but this caused bad the canoe and walked another half That’s because, as one guide told us, of grated coconut on top, and Megan’s to the open window with a shoebox of glare in the sun, and now the city must hour, through his village. Fredees told the streets are one-way, their names sangria was full of fresh fruit, topped bracelets and leaned in. approve each color before it goes on. us about a thousand people live on the change every block, and they were laid with sprig of rosemary. I could hardly say “nyet” before he In Cartagena, locals often snack on island, which is part of a national out crooked in order to bring in cross- I don’t know if it’s because we left had four or five of them spread out on the street. At our first food stop on the park. There were drowsy dogs and winds from the ocean. When we finally Boston in one snowstorm and came our table — he was still standing out- tour, a vendor was dipping plantains humble huts and a latrine with a Peace arrived at La Passion Hotel, we found back in another, but the street life in side — and had lit a match to one in garlic and salt, deep frying them Corps emblem: obviously a volunteer’s ourselves in a restored 19th century Cartagena — the colors, flowers, mu- bracelet to show that it “was crystal, and serving slices with local cheese. long-ago project. mansion centered around a courtyard sic, scents, chatter — seemed to be in not plastic.” Before I knew it, I owned For the next couple of hours, we sam- Even on this mostly deserted is- that opened up to the bluest sky. We’d Technicolor and surround sound. two. pled spiced mango, empanadas, yucca land, there were guys selling stuff. I gotten a deal through hotels.com There’s always something to look at, That night, I dreamed a man with a stuffed with cheese, fried pork bellies bought a beautiful, “hand-polished” —about $100 a night — which includ- someone to talk to, music to twirl to, stack of hats was chasing me. and bunuelos. Last was passion fruit conch shell necklace for about $18. ed a breakfast of fresh fruit and street food to sample. Tasting the local food is always a lollis, or homemade popsicles. The food was good, the drinks were squeezed juice, toast, and eggs with Hibiscus, giant ferns, roses, sun- travel imperative. Through Cartagena We then walked through the work- cold, the ocean was warm, the sunsets lots of good stuff in them. flowers, and daisies grow absurdly ev- Connections(cartagenaconnec- ing class neighborhood of Getsemani, amazing, and before the boat took us It was served in the bar area adja- erywhere, and it’s easy to see where tions.com), Megan and I signed up for which has lots of good bars, used to be away our last morning, I gave the cent to the rooftop pool, which offered Gabo got his obsession with flowers. a street food and culture tour, $30 a landfill and is now turning into a hip room one last look and would only add a 360-degree view of the red-roofed Hawkers abound, and the side- apiece. We met our guide, Jan, at the ’hood. Huge murals painted on out- this to Gabo’s quote: No place in life is town. We could hear the clip-clopping walks, narrow to begin with, are blan- Plaza Parque Fernandez de Madrid, side walls tell the story of the gentrifi- more sad than an empty bed — on a of horses and buggies three stories be- keted with woven bags, Panama hats, and 10 of us set out on a 2½ hour cation and displacement of artists and paradise island. low, and see the skyline of the other Cuban cigars, and trinkets. If you don’t walking-and-noshing tour of Old Town others. Cartagena. want to buy, don’t even make eye con- and its funky neighbor, Getsemani. The tour ended at a café, where Jan Bella English can be reached at It was hot in March, in the 80s, and tact, or you’ll find yourself the owner Jan pointed out the various copper explained that Colombian coffee isn’t [email protected].