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A Neighborhood Guide to the Heart of La

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A Neighborhood Guide to the Heart of La A NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE TO THE HEART OF LA OUR PARTNERS WELCOME TO CICLAVIA Today CicLAvia trav- els through the historic center of the city, which throughout its long history has been a site of tremendous changes and demographic shifts. The “heart of LA,” like the rest of the city, is a dynamic place, with a history of intersections (some civil, some not) between the people and places that City of Los Angeles created our utterly unique and multiethnic city. Many of the neighborhoods along today’s route are in the midst of development or gentrification, shifting culturally OUR SUPPORTERS OUR SPONSORS and economically, with the loss of some elements of the Annenberg Foundation Cirque du Soleil past as buildings are refurbished or restored and new residents move in. Hopefully, these shifts inspire the birth Ralph M. Parsons Foundation Whole You of new cultural movements or lead us to recognize the Rosenthal Family Foundation Pick My Solar value of our storied past and its forgotten people. But David Bohnett Foundation Los Angeles Department of whether we like it or not, circulation is what keeps a heart Water and Power alive. Along with its functionality, the heart is also the place where we put things we hold dear. The same might OUR MEDIA PARTNERS Southern California Gas be true of this 6-mile swath of our city—its vitality is key to The Los Angeles Times Company the entire city’s well-being and its preservation a matter Laemmle Theatres Whole Foods Downtown not just of survival, but also affection. Los Angeles Time Out Los Angeles It’s appropriate that today’s route begins and ends Tern Bicycles Downtown News within two of LA’s historic public parks—MacArthur and The Laemmle Charitable Hollenbeck. Established in the early days of modern LA’s Foundation existence, they were projects that involved then mayor Indie Printing William Workman, who believed that the booming popula- tion needed healthful and attractive oases in the growing city. Workman, a real-estate entrepreneur, was also a savvy developer—his investments were declining and he Written by Andrea Richards used the parks to make his own land holdings more attrac- tive. It worked: MacArthur Park—then known as Westlake Designed by Colleen Corcoran and Tiffanie Tran Park—soon became a popular destination for LA residents Printed by Pace Marketing Communications and visitors alike. Deemed “the most popular open-air resort in the city,” the park hosted Sunday concerts that © CICLAVIA 2015 drew crowds of thousands. Hollenbeck was also a great success, both in civic function and as an anchor to the neighborhood’s development. Allowing LA’s public to WESTLAKE/ enjoy the city’s greatest assets—the incredible climate and natural beauty outside—these sites for recreation MACARTHUR PARK ............ 4 permitted a free place for a mix of the city’s population to commingle on its lawns, boat together in its (man-made) lakes and sit together to picnic or enjoy music. DOWNTOWN ............................. 10 Later, the two parks would suffer the same fate, being bisected by roadways (Wilshire Blvd. and the 5 Freeway) that marred the scenery and destroyed some of their valu- ............................ 24 able resources. Still, these parks remain as important and CHINATOWN beloved mainstays of the neighborhoods. (Today’s route also includes the latest of the city’s essential parks, Grand Park.) Whether it be as a place to celebrate a quinceañera, LITTLE TOKYO ...................... 32 eat a quick lunch or engage in some vice, the parks con- tinue to offer what all people in LA need more of—open spaces for gathering together in protest (all three parks ARTS DISTRICT & have been important rally sites) or pleasure. CicLAvia, an event that essentially turns parts of the city into a park— LA RIVER ................................... 38 if only for a day—is pleased to passionately promote the value of such shared civic space. Special thanks to the LA Conservancy (laconservancy.org) BOYLE HEIGHTS ................... 46 for their assistance with this guide. For more information on the historic preservation of our city, please visit their website or take one of their terrific walking tours. NEIGHBORHOOD EXTRAS—LEGEND CicLAvia transforms LA’s streets into a safe, fun, CULINARY LA INSTAGRAM SPOTS car-free space for walking, bicycling, skating, jogging and seeing the city in a whole new way. SEEN IT: FILM LOCATIONS LITERARY LA WESTLAKE/MACARTHUR PARK has a W 3RD dynamic history, its landscape and inhabitants—and even its name—changing over the years. The neighborhood’s 1 main landmark, MacArthur Park, has as its origin the 2 real-estate boom of the early 1880s, when the city’s devel- opment expanded to what was then its western boundary. MACARTHUR Led by the 18th mayor of Los Angeles, William Workman, PARK HUB a swath of swampland that was being used as a dump was 3 transformed into one of the city’s most popular parks. W 6TH With a beautiful park as an attraction, Westlake developed 4 W 7TH into one of the city’s first affluent suburbs, serving as UNION both a vacation destination and a prestigious residential WILSHIRE address. The popularity of the fashionable district led W 8TH 5 to a high concentration of mid-rise luxury apartments ALVARADO and courtyard housing, which boasted a well-integrated JAMES M WOOD BIXEL network for streetcar routes. Then, as is the case now, Westlake had the highest residential density in the city. OLYMPIC After WWII, many of the area’s moneyed dwellers moved away. The razing of Bunker Hill displaced a population who moved into MacArthur Park, finding much-needed afford- able housing in the newly neglected area. This change also brought immigrant families from Central America, Mexico, Korea and the Philippines, and the area became 110 an important entry point for refugees fleeing the civil wars in Guatemala and El Salvador. By the 1970s and ‘80s the civic neglect made the neighbor- hood more than just rough around the edges. MacArthur Park became known for its criminal activity. The arrival of the A paleta from a cart In front of Portraits of Hope’s Metro in 1993 was the first step in the area’s redevelopment, in the park 2,500 hand-painted spheres reconnecting it to downtown. As downtown real-estate currently floating in the lake. heats up and developers expand out from the city center, Killer Bait (1949), MacArthur Park (2001), The Choirboys by Joseph some look westward, just as Workman did 135 years ago. Volcano (1997) Wambaugh, The Tattooed Soldier by Héctor Tobar 4 1 MacArthur Park Developed in the 1880s on the site of what was once a naturally occurring alkali lake, this city park was opened to the public in 1890 and boasted a fresh-water lake fed by the zanja system, a Victorian boathouse and a bandstand (now Levitt Pavilion). In 1934, the lake was effectively split in half by the extension of Wilshire Blvd., and the northern section was drained. In 1942, the city changed the park’s name to honor Douglas MacArthur (reportedly due to a request from William Randolph Hearst). Long a center for civic gathering and protest, the park was the site of 2007’s May Day Melee, where protesters rallying for immigration reform (and some of the 1. MACARTHUR PARK, c. 1970 Courtesy of LA Conservancy Archives news teams covering them) clashed with the LAPD. 2 Westlake Theatre 636 S. Alvarado St. While today this grand movie palace sits empty after decades of serving as a swap meet, it was once the swanky theatre of choice for the Westlake community, offering 2,000 seats for first-run films and plays. Built in 1926, it was later updated by architect S. Charles Lee (who designed downtown’s Los Angeles Theatre and the Tower Theatre). Today, the beautiful neon sign located on the building’s roof is an iconic part of the neighborhood and a bright reminder of its past. 2. WESTLAKE THEATRE, c. 1920 Courtesy of LA Conservancy Archives 6 5. YOUNG’S MARKET BUILDING 3 Westlake/MacArthur Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Photo Collection Park Metro 660 S. Alvarado St. Located across the street from the park, this heavy- rail subway station serves Metro’s Red and Purple lines, linking the San Fernando Valley, Hollywood, Koreatown and Westlake to downtown. (Eventually, when the Purple Line expansion is complete, it will also link these areas to the Westside!) Public arts projects at the station include murals by Francisco Letelier and Sonia Romero’s Urban Oasis, which portray local landmarks in ceramic mosaic tile. 4 Langer’s Delicatessen 704 S. Alvarado St. 5 Young’s Market Building For nearly 70 years, the Langer family has been at the 1600 W. 7th St. helm of this James Beard award–winning deli, which is known world wide for its #19 (pastrami on rye with Founded in 1906, the Young’s Market Company coleslaw, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing). One of eventually expanded to a chain of 60 markets until the few remaining Jewish delis not on the Westside, its becoming a strictly wholesale purveyor of wine, signature pastrami has earned praise from luminaries spirits and food. In 1928, the company opened its such as Jonathan Gold and Nora Ephron. After serving headquarters in this Spanish Renaissance Revival in the army during WWII and working in a variety of building designed by Charles F. Plummer, the delicatessens around Boyle Heights (and briefly, Palm interior of which was modeled on a Pompeian mar- Springs), founder Al Langer opened a 12-seat shop ketplace. In 1958 the company moved, and during here; today, it seats 135 and is a vital part of a vibrant the 1992 LA Rebellion/Riots the building sustained neighborhood.
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