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o find the real soul of the Best route to Spiti and to feel its true essence, one must There are two ways to reach Spiti valley; go exploring deep in the mountains. one via Manali and and The Spiti Valley is one such place, the other via Kullu, Aut and Jalori pass. Tbut be prepared for a very rough ride ahead. If you haven’t witnessed the beauty of The roads in Spiti are considered among the Kinnaur region, you should opt for the most dangerous roads in the world. So while Jalori pass route. It is a better option the mountains keep you mesmerised with considering the massive traffic you have A unique wonderland their splendour and magic, your body might go to face at Manali. Also, one has to wait through some very torturous curves and jerks. for long hours to acquire permit to enter The muddy, stony, rough tracks, narrow roads, the Lahaul-Spiti valley after crossing Spiti is an enchanted desert land of rocks glacial waters gushing through your path and Manali, in case you choose to travel via that come in every imaginable shape, size sharp hairpin bends keep you on your toes. Rohtang pass. and colour

Text & Photos: Monidipa Dey

30 | Rail Bandhu - September 2017 www.railbandhu.in Pic credit: Shutterstock Lead Story

Mountains of Spiti tell a tale of hog-back Mountains and gully erosion, due to constant water and wind erosion for millions of years

(Above) In the land of clouds — Jibhi; (Right) On way to Chitkul, at Rakchamm, pink fields it is compulsory to report at the ITBP check- a monastery perched on a high cliff top, and a of buckwheat post to seek permission for entering the valley. large village built on a bluff that opens out into From Sumdo, before reaching Hoorling, you the main valley, ending in a sharp cliff. The view can take a detour and follow a rather lonely from top is indeed breathtaking. From Dhankar, Halt at Sangla and beautiful road that leads you to the Gue Kaza is around an hour away. It is a rather pretty Jalori pass is 112 km away from Manali and The scenery of Kinnaur region village and monastery, which is located close but congested town on the banks of the Spiti takes about 4-5 hours to reach. Start early so to the border. The monastery is famed for river, and a place full of tourists. Next day you that you can reach before lunch. If you have will mesmerise you as you pass holding ’s only known natural mummy, the can follow the curving roads that take you uphill enough time on hand, make a night halt at Recong peo, Pooh and Khaab desiccated body of a monk that is around 550 to the beautiful villages such as Langza, Komic, Jibhi, a pretty Himalayan hamlet where you years old. From Gue, follow the same path back , Kee, etc., located at high altitudes. can explore the forests that surround it. Next to the main road, and continue up to Tabo. stop is Sangla which is almost 210 km away A beautiful detour from Jibhi and it takes almost 10-12 hours to Changing landscapes Of caves and monasteries You can take a detour to visit the enchanting reach Sangla. The route to Sangla, once you On the road to Spiti, your first halt can be Tabo is a sleepy town located at a height of Chandratal lake, situated at almost 13,500 ft. reach Rampur-Bushahr, turns scenic and once either Nako or Tabo. Sangla to Tabo is 190 Interesting 10,760 ft and has a 10th CE mud monastery and After if you take the bifurcation in Kinnaur it is cooler and prettier. km and the road is treacherous. It takes facts many old caves where the monks stayed and from Batal you will land up at the camping site QUICK almost an entire day to reach Tabo. You will Few scenes of Alia Bhatt prayed. The monastery walls have beautiful near Chandratal. The blue lake is moon-shaped The beauty of Chitkul FACTS leave behind the Baspa river that was by your starrer Highway have been centuries-old frescoes, however, photography and there are many other small water bodies The road to Chitkul from Sangla is rough, but side until now at Karcham. From here river shot in Spiti Valley majorly is not allowed inside the dimly lit rooms. Once near it. View the lake in the early morning light in Kaza, , the surrounding scenic beauty keeps you Drinking water or will give you company. The scenery and the monastery and caves are explored you can and experience the tranquility of the place. any fluids at regular Nako Village. enthralled. You will see rivers, bright pink intervals is a of Kinnaur region will mesmerise you as you start your journey towards Kaza. The scenery

fields of buckwheat, bugyals full of green must to avoid pass Recong peo, Pooh and Khaab. There will between Tabo and Kaza is beautiful with a Back to Manali dehydration as Spiti Fill up fuel in your car at grass, mountain streams, snow peaks and valley is a dry area. be a gradual change in the landscape as you constant view of the meandering Spiti river While coming back towards Manali take the ever changing shapes of mountains. Sangla inch towards the Spiti valley with mountains Karcham or Recong-peo and the valley below. From Tabo, Kaza takes road that passes through Batal and Chatru. The as the next available place to Chitkul is around 55 km and takes around losing their green cover and turning barren with a fuel station is the around two hours to reach (around 45 km), so road is covered by stones, mud and with glacial As you will move an hour to reach. After spending few hours through very high with rocky faces. The Lahaul-Spiti valley far-off Kaza. you can take the spiralling road up that will rivers flowing freely across the mud tracks. It is exploring the place, you can come back to altitudes, spending a begins after crossing Namgia and this is the take you to the Dhankar monastery, an early advisable to start early from Chandratal to avoid day at Sangla and after a short rest, spend rest of Manali place where Sutlej meets the river Spiti. You Camping anywhere in medieval structure. the melting snow waters that gush down heavily the day exploring this town and the villages or Kullu enter an enchanted desert land of rocks that Chandratal lakeside areas in the later part of the day. Once in the Rohtang at the start of your is strictly prohibited, so around it. You can also opt for walking trails journey will help you come in every imaginable shape, size and stay in camps within the Dhankar was the old capital of Spiti (before the pass area, you will notice the change in scenario popular in this place. acclimatise. colour. After entering Lahaul-Spiti, in Sumdo allocated camping site. capital was shifted to Kaza), and it consists of with greenery back in sight.

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