SPRING 2018

Laura Maioglio Holly Arnold Kinney Gladys Abi-Najm Pardis Stitt BARBETTA THE FORT LEBANESE TAVERNA HIGHLANDS BAR AND GRILL 1906 (112 years) 1964 (54 years) 1979 (39 years) 1982 (36 years) DOUBLE DECADE RESTAURANT

DamesOWNERS share their secrets of long-lasting success

ALSO INSIDE ... LEGACY AWARD WINNERS' REPORTS | GREEN TABLES | NEW YORK LDEI BOARD MEETING On the cover: The main dining room of Barbetta Res- taurant in owned by Laura Maioglio (see page 4-5). Right: The . Will it be the Brock Circle for a day? Photo: Cynthia Nims. New York Dames Joan Brower (Chapter President), Janeen Sarlin, Rita Jammet, Deborah Mintcheff, and LDEI President Hayley Matson-Mathes (Ha- waii) socialize at the LDEI Board Meeting (see pages 16-17). Photo: Mike Mathes

FROM THE EDITOR Me own a restaurant? SPRING 2 O18 Not on your life!

I have a lot of “invisible” friends who own . I say, “invisible,” because it’s nearly impossible to go out with them IN THIS ISSUE socially. They seem wedded to their establishments or must respond to emergencies, such as hemorrhaging water heaters, FEATURES power outages, staff shortages, chefs quitting, etc. One time while I was living in Houston, I invited Double Decade one of my Kappa Kappa Gamma soror- 4 ity sisters out for dinner AT HER OWN Restaurant Owners RESTAURANT in order to see her. (Yes, I paid the bill!) 14 Green Tables So for the spring issue of the Quarterly, I decided to interview Dame restaurant 15 Seattle Conference owners to learn how they got into, and stayed in, business. I downloaded the LDEI Board Meets from the Professions list- 16 ing in the LDEI Member Directory and In New York City found more than 140. How to choose whom to interview? Well, I narrowed it to 10 Dames who 18 Legacy Awards Winners have owned successful restaurants for more than two decades and who represent 10 different chapters of LDEI. Read their 30 Global Culinary Postcard stories on pages 4-13. The longest-lived restaurant is 112 years old and is owned by Laura Maioglio (New York). No, of course, she’s not more than 112-years-old, but she took over the family’s 56-year-old DEPARTMENTS Barbetta Restaurant and has kept it winning awards for 56 more years—and counting. My toque’s off to her. Chapter News I have a confession to make. My husband, John Kelly, and 22 I don’t go out to restaurants often because I love to at home. Besides, we have a deal: I cook, he cleans up! Such a 26 Member Milestones deal! Most of the restaurants I visit are host to my Washing- ton, D.C., Chapter’s great events, which is to say, Dame- 31 Submission Guidelines owned. But John and I do travel a lot. And after interviewing only these 10 Dames, I can say that if I’m in their cities, I will definitely dine there as well as support other restaurants owned by Dames. One of the brilliant things about LDEI is that, through our many professions, we help each other. We can write about res- taurants, cook in them, edit or write cookbooks, plan events, do TV or radio interviews—the list goes on. I am in awe of these powerful women who control the many facets of the restaurant business. A suggestion from me: Take a restaurant owner out for dinner! Bon, bon, bon appetit! —CiCi Williamson, Editor, Spring Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2018 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS The mission of the LDEI Board is to Tiny is the Flower Yet It Scents the Grass Around It foster the growth and success of Happy Spring! I love living in Hawaii where the organization by supporting the flowers and natural beauty – celebrated year- development of new and existing chapters and by implementing program initiatives. round – are the focus of a unique May 1st Lei It provides leadership, guidance, Day tradition. The song whose lyrics follow is education, connectivity, and effective performed by Hawaii school children during communication among LDEI members. May Day hula programs recognizing the his- President tory of the Hawaiian monarchy and the beauty HAYLEY MATSON-MATHES of the Hawaiian Islands. Owner/Culinary Consultant 2333 Kapiolani Boulevard #3516 May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii Honolulu, HI 96826 Garlands of flowers everywhere (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] All of the colors in the rainbow First Vice President ANN STRATTE Maidens with blossoms in their hair Lobster and Lox LLC Flowers that mean we should be happy 100 Severn Avenue, #506 Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 Throwing aside a load of care (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] Oh, May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii Second Vice President May Day is happy days out there BEV SHAFFER Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT. There is something very special about giving Culinary Consultant | Recipe Development a lei and about accepting a lei. A lei is a gift R&D | Food & Travel Writer from the heart with the lei flower being selected 3433 Blake Road Seville, OH 44273 depending upon the (330) 441-2706 occasion and the per- [email protected] son. This beautiful gift Third Vice President of aloha reminds me LDEI Board. Seated: KATHY GOLD of my childhood tradi- Beth Pav, Drew Faulkner, President/Executive Grande Dame Lidia Bas- The Cooking Company/ tion where my mother tianich (New York), Bev In The Kitchen Cooking School and I carefully crafted Shaffer, Stacy Zeigler. 10 Mechanic Street May baskets filled with Standing: Greg Jewell, Haddonfield, NJ 08033 flowers and home Ann Stratte, Sharon Ol- (609) 206-4511 | [email protected] son, Deborah Mintcheff, Secretary baked cookies/breads Hayley Matson-Mathes, DEBORAH MINTCHEFF to share with elderly Kathy Gold, Deborah Cookbook Editor/Writer/Certified Life Coach neighbors. Whatever Mintcheff. Photo: Mike 129 East 69th Street Mathes New York, NY 10021-5041 your springtime tradi- (202) 879-0383 | [email protected] tion, take a moment to smell the flowers and Treasurer share with those in your community. LDEI Board meeting and a visit with the highly SHARON OLSON An appropriate Hawaiian saying, “Tiny is accomplished New York Chapter. The song, Culinary Visions Panel the flower yet it scents the grass around.” Too “New York! New York!,” is apt encouragement 445 W. Erie Street, Suite 107 to start spreading the news about LDEI in your Chicago, IL 60654 often, we underestimate what we can accom- (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] community. The focus of our dynamic board plish. One Dame or one chapter of Dames Chapter Board Liaisons can make a significant impact on our com- meeting was collaboration, strategic visioning, JULIE CHERNOFF munity and our world. Sharing with the next tangible deliverables (including a refresh of the Dining Editor, Make it Better Media LDEI brochure), and service to our chapters. 200 Burnham Place generation through planned giving is but one Evanston, IL 60202 way to make a difference. The stock dona- Your LDEI board is committed to working (847) 902-6741 | [email protected] tion program allows for donation of stocks, closely as a team to deliver on our robust plan BETH VLASICH PAV bonds, or mutual funds directly to Les Dames to connect Dames across the globe while foster- Owner/Chef, Cooking by Design, LLC d’Escoffier International. Visit the members ing the growth and success of our organization 5606 Stage Stop Circle and YOU. As Dames we are part of a network Austin, TX 78738 only section of www.ldei.org for details. LDEI (512) 431-8751 | [email protected] that is much larger than our individual chapters also welcomes gifts from wills and trusts. DREW FAULKNER The first quarter of the year was dedicated to – our reach and power is awe-inspiring. Culinary Instructor connecting with chapters and meeting Dames It was very appropriate to plan for the future 7407 Honeywell Lane of LDEI in New York City, where Carol Bethesda, MD 20814-1019 one-on-one. To experience a taste of winter, Home/Office 301-986-8540 | drewcooks@ I traveled to , D.C., in Decem- Brock’s foresight led to the founding of our mac.com ber for their fabulous holiday potluck. In organization. Please join us as we build a Immediate Past President February, I connected with the San Francisco, framework for the future! STACY ZEIGLER Sacramento, and Monterey Bay Chapters at Aloha, Director of Sales, Bold Catering & Design 2160 Niles Place NE Wente’s Murrieta’s Well Winery. Mahalo to Atlanta, GA 30324 Amy Hoopes for hosting. A late February (678) 938-3196 | [email protected] visit to the gracious Houston Dames capped Executive Director off the quarter. There are more chapter GREG JEWELL Hayley Matson-Mathes President, AEC Management Resources visits (at Board Member’s personal expense) President, Les Dames d’Escoffier P.O. Box 4961 planned by the LDEI board. International Louisville, KY 40204 January included a visit to New York for our (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected] SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 3 Credit © NYC & Company DOUBLE DECADE RESTAURANT OWNERS Dames share their secrets of long-lasting success By CiCi Williamson the National Restaurant Association’s estimate that between 19- and 60-per- (Washington, D.C.) “2017 State of the Industry.” Nearly cent of restaurants fail during their first In 2017, the United States had over half of all adults have worked in the year. In LDEI, more than 140 Dames one million restaurants; Canada, restaurant industry at some point, and are successful restaurant owners. Think- 95,000; and the U.K., 84,000. Ameri- 46 percent of restaurant employees say ing of opening a restaurant? Read their can restaurants are staffed by 14.7 they would like to own a restaurant stories and see the advice from Dames million employees, and restaurants are someday. No one dreams of owning a who have owned thriving restaurants a $799 billion industry, according to failed restaurant, though, but figures for decades.

THINKING OF Take the advice of these nine If your restaurant follows the cuisine of a particular region or country, the OPENING successful Dames who have owned food should be true to the way food is prepared there. If a dish is a totally new YOUR OWN theirs for a total of 397 years. creation, its roots must be identifiable in its taste—that is, its “pedigree” must RESTAURANT? Read their stories on these pages. be recognizable. —Laura Maioglio, Barbetta Restaurant

Above right:Laura at the founding of LDEI in 1986 (*New York). Claire Boasi (Philadelphia), Jeanne Voltz*, Elayne Kleeman*, Carol Brock*, Carol Haddix (Chicago), Carol Mason (Washington D.C.), Saralie Slonsky*, Laura Maioglio*, and Dolores Snyder (Dallas). 4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 112 The reason Barbetta serves garden for open air dining, a rare Piemontese dishes is because that’s thing at that time in . EST. 1906 where the family originated and Today it’s shaded by century-old YRS emigrated from in 1902, and trees, and it flowers with the scent- where they still maintain their 17th ed blooms of magnolia, wisteria, Laura Maioglio century family palazzo in Fubine jasmine, oleander, and gardenia. Monferrato. Piemonte is Italy’s In recent years, Laura restored (New York) northwestern-most region, border- the second floor of the 1874 Barbetta Restaurant ing on Switzerland and France. and 1881 brownstones for use www.barbettarestaurant.com “I was determined to make as party rooms for up to 100 Barbetta more Piemontese than people. Many films and televi- ever, so I added Fonduta, Carne sion shows have been filmed in LDEI Founding Member Owns Cruda, Bagna Cauda, and Bue al Barbetta Restaurant including Barolo, and I introduced white Arthur, Alice, The Departed, Mad Oldest Italian Restaurant in New York truffles. We serve the great white Men, and Sex and the City, truffle dishes of Piemonte during In her personal life, Laura is “My father didn’t think the had artisans in Italy reproduce the truffle season from October married to a brilliant doctor, restaurant business was intel- 180 copies of one. Another to Christmas,” said Laura. In Günter Blobel, who singlehand- lectually challenging enough for important piece is the 1631 harp- 1962, she started bringing in edly won a 1999 Nobel prize in me. I received a degree magna sichord in the foyer, signed by white truffles—hunted by her Medicine “for the discovery that cum laude in Art History from Francesco Fabbri, an extremely own truffle hounds—because at proteins have intrinsic signals Bryn Mawr,” explained Laura rare instrument that the Metro- that time white truffles were not that govern their transport and Maioglio, owner of the family’s politan Museum is eyeing. available in the U.S. localization in the cell.” Dr. 112-year-old restaurant. But In its interior design, Barbetta As one would expect from a Blobel gave the entire proceeds when the only child found out was the first elegant Italian res- restaurant that is over 100 years of the almost one million dollars Sebastiano Maioglio, her father, taurant created in New York. This old, the cuisine and menu at Bar- of his Nobel Prize to the recon- had sold Barbetta Restaurant, she represented a radical departure betta reflect its 112-year culinary struction of the Frauenkirche, pleaded with the new owner to from the then-erroneous Ameri- history. Beside each dish on the Synagogue, and reconstruction of cancel the sale, and she took over can notion that Italian restaurants menu is noted the year in which it Dresden, razed to the ground in running it in 1962. are invariably “rustic” and that was first served. The sous chefs are the bombing of 1945. Using her art history knowledge, Italian food must be similarly encouraged to create new dishes to Carol Brock said, “Günter Laura closed the restaurant and be- “rustic.” present to her for possible inclu- attended all LDENY events and gan decorating it with 18th century Barbetta is the oldest Italian res- sion on the menu. To her “Team was a keynote speaker for the Piemontese antiques. Most notable taurant in New York and the old- de Cuisine,” she acts as coach and chapter’s all-day symposium. among these is the great Piemon- est still owned by the family who follows the lines of a sports team. Laura was a founding member of tese chandelier that hangs in the founded it. It’s also the oldest She employs a staff of 50. LDEI and has been a great sup- main dining room. It took her two restaurant in New York’s Theatre BROWNSTONES AND GARDENS porter for many decades.” years to negotiate its purchase from District. It was the first to present Back in 1925, Laura’s father How to stay in business for more DOUBLE DECADE a palazzo in Torino, Piemonte’s Italian dishes that were elegant bought four adjoining brown- than a century? “Loyal custom- capital, which formerly belonged to yet, at the same time, absolutely stones from the Astor family and ers,” said Laura. “They say how the Savoys, Italy’s royal family. authentic and well known to Ital- used two to make the restaurant. beautiful the restaurant is, and Obviously diners couldn’t sit in ians in Italy although unfamiliar She expanded it to three, and they always want to say ‘hello’ to valuable antique chairs, but Laura in the 1960s to Americans. in 1963, added and designed a me.”—By CiCi Williamson

25 Boulevard is located in the only building still standing that EST. 1993 survived the 1906 San Francisco YRS Earthquake. Nancy’s refined American fare is served in this Belle Époque-style building in a Nancy Oakes chic Embarcadero location boast- (San Francisco) ing bay views. Boulevard Restaurant Nancy is married to sausage www.boulevardrestaurant.com king, Bruce Aidells, whom she met in the 1980s while chef at Pat O’Shea’s Mad Hatter. She was one America’s Outstanding Chef, of his first and favorite customers of his fledgling sausage company. Outstanding Restaurant [Ed. Note. As of press time, Nancy Oakes was unavailable Beginning her restaurant career standing Restaurant in America for an interview. However, as the as a hostess in other owners’ San in 2012. She added to that by chef/owner of one of Les Dames’ Francisco restaurants, in 1993 winning Outstanding Chef in oldest successful restaurants, I Nancy Oakes opened her own— 2015. Honors also include being wanted to include her in this Boulevard Restaurant—that won named Zagat’s San Francisco Bay feature.—CiCi Williamson] the James Beard Award for Out- Area’s Most Popular Restaurant. SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 5 55 and Sam’l (a Lifetime Achieve- Outstanding Business Woman of ment awardee by IACP) started the Year by the Denver Business EST. 1963 researching the diaries of what the Journal in 2016. From 2013- YRS pioneers ate along the Santa Fe 2014, she Served on the National Trail, what the mountain men ate, U.S. Travel and Tourism Advisory the cuisines of the native Indian Board appointed by then Secre- Holly Arnold Kinney tribes, and the culinary influences tary of Commerce John Bryson (Colorado) of the Mexican and Spanish trad- and President Obama. The Fort ers. My father’s research for his “Our beautiful 80-foot-high red www.thefort.com cookbook, Eating Up the Santa Fe sandstone rock next to The Fort Trail, was the inspiration for our gives a unique beauty and feel as menu. As part of giving the public if you are walking back in time The Fort Serves over 70,000 a ‘Living History Experience’ of to the 1800s,” Holly believes. Bent’s Fort, we decided to serve “You enter the gates and see the Entrees of Buffalo Annually ‘New Foods of the Old West.’ campfire burning aspen or piñon The magic of The Fort’s cuisine, wood in the open air courtyard. A childhood home, a unique this!’ At this time they discovered is that we go back researching The Cheyenne teepee is also pres- restaurant, a destination for this beautiful red rock property what recipes were popular in the ent with a welcome sign in six dignitaries, and a listing on the for sale in Morrison, Colorado, 19th century and add a contem- languages, including Cheyenne!” National Register of Historic just southwest of Denver. They porary twist. The Fort’s staples “It is my hope that beyond my Places by the Department of bought it in 1961,” said Holly. have always been buffalo, elk, and lifetime, The Fort restaurant will Interior: this is Holly Arnold “Our architect was the famous quail. Today we serve over 70,000 continue serving our historic Kinney’s The Fort. Crowned with William Lumpkins, an award- entrees of buffalo annually.” cuisine as part of the Tesoro Cul- the Wine Spectator Award of winning architect in adobe In 1997, President Clinton tural Center run by the Board Excellence in America every year construction from Santa Fe. With chose The Fort to host the official of Directors,” said Holly, who is since 2006, The Fort was named a contractor and the help of 22 dinner for the Summit of Eight the founder and current Ex- in 2017 in Open Table’s Top 100 men, we puddled over 80,000 leaders of the World. There were ecutive Director of the Tesoro Restaurants in America. mud and straw bricks, weighing over 7,000 Press from around Foundation. “This is our family It began with Holly’s mother, 40 pounds each, to construct the the world, but only a pool of 120 legacy and will make The Fort Elizabeth “Bay” Arnold, want- main building. With construc- were allowed to cover The Fort experience fun for future genera- ing to build an adobe-style home tion costs rising, the bank sug- dinner. Her father, then over 70 tions. The Fort is actually much outside Denver, so Holly and gested we put a business in our years old had congestive heart more than a restaurant, as it is a her brother, Keith, could grow historic home. Sam’l turned to failure and wanted to sell The cultural destination.”—By CiCi up in the country with clean air, Bay and said, ‘You can cook!’ and Fort. Not wanting to lose her Williamson horseback riding, and fishing. then she said to Sam’l, ‘Well, you family home, Holly purchased Above: The Game Plate features a “My father, Sam’l P. Arnold, and can cook!’ The lower level became 49%f interest and ran both her bone-in elk chop, buffalo sirloin medal- mother were amateur historians. the restaurant and the upper PR firm and a 350 seat restaurant lion, and a grilled teriyaki quail. Sam'l Bay was reading a book about level, our living quarters. All the with 90 employees. She pur- Arnold overseeing construction of The Bent’s Fort, a famous Colorado furniture, gates, doors, and chairs Fort. Holly with Sissy Bear. “In 1962, chased the other 51% when her we adopted a Canadian black bear cub fur-trade adobe fort built in 1833 were hand carved by Taos artists father passed away in 2006. named ‘Sissy’ who lived at The Fort and saw a drawing in the book in the same style as they were in Among many honors, Holly for 19 years. She was my pet bear, and of this adobe castle on the plains. 1833. The Fort restaurant opened was inducted into the Colorado died of old age. There are many stories She turned to Sam’l and said, for business in February 1963.” Hall of Fame for Tourism/Visit and photos of Sissy bear at the Fort. In 2016, I wrote a children’s book titled ‘Let’s build an adobe castle like “What to serve in our Fort? Bay Denver in 2017 and was named Sissy Bear at The Fort.

THINKING OF OPENING My advice to anyone opening a restaurant today: get enough capital to buy the building and be your own landlord. YOUR OWN RESTAURANT? So many great restaurants have closed as the landlord raises the rent, and the restaurant cannot afford it.—Holly Arnold Kinney, The Fort

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 39 ers, first and foremost. So many continue to give to close to 1,000 witnessed us growing up in the organizations each year in the EST. 1979 restaurants, and they supported form of gift certificates or food. YRS us with carpool rides, helping “Keeping good staff is probably with homework, and bringing one of the most challenging things their friends to the restaurant in any business, especially today Gladys Abi-Najm frequently. This community with the sheer number of restau- (Washington, D.C.) accomplished such a sense of rants opening daily. Many of our Lebanese Taverna achievement with our success employees are here without their that it created a culture that went families. They see my siblings, www.lebanesetaverna.com from store to store and cheered cousins, aunts, and uncles work- on our success.” ing together and they feel a sense “We are the epitome of the of home,” reveals Gladys. Family Creates a Small Piece American Dream, and people Upkeep is another challenge. were rooting for us. The other “Imagine if a couple hundred of Lebanese Life is family. Our parents taught us people lived in your home and that hard work, honesty, and that’s what’s like!” says Gladys. From the first Lebanese Taverna both my parents who were taking care of each other were “It takes far greater effort to be location in Arlington down the just cooking the food we ate at the most important things in life. in business for many decades. street from their house, Gladys home. All of us have worked The food and hospitality were Restaurants run on little profit Abi-Najm’s company now oper- in the restaurant since the very equally important. All we were margin, so we need to spend our ates 10 eateries and employs first day. We were always a doing was serving traditional, renovation money wisely.” around 350 people whose heritage part of it—even in middle and honest, and fresh Lebanese cui- “It’s been an honor to be a is from over 30 countries. In Za- high school. There was never a sine—not reinventing the wheel. Dame, especially with network- gat’s top 40 D.C. restaurants for time that we didn’t contribute We took care of each other and ing and feeling empowered by the past 20 years, the eatery began in some way so it was as much our customers,” said Gladys. such successful women. We have with her father’s dream of creating ‘ours’ as it was our parents. As For the first 35 years, we didn’t also gotten press from Dames a small piece of life in Lebanon in we grew, we each were able to have lots of money to spend on writing articles for publications, their new home, America. find our passion and apply it to advertising, but what we did is such as Bonnie Benwick, Dep- Her father and mother, Tanios the business but we all worked give. Give to anyone who asked. uty Food Editor, The Washington and Marie Abi-Najm, immigrated in the dining room or kitchen. Give to our customer’s causes, Post, and Carole Sugarman in with their five children in 1979, My talent has always been art schools and endeavors and it Bethesda Magazine. I love how we and three years later purchased and graphics, so I became the would come back tenfold. It was help each other out,” concludes Athenian Taverna, a sub and pizza creative director and the de facto amazing to see how it worked. Gladys.—By CiCi Williamson shop in Arlington. Tanios wrote, face of Lebanese Taverna. I also And at the same time, we would “We could only afford to change printed the menus, designed the get people to try our food, so it Clockwise: Tabouleh; Washington, half of the original sign, thus ads, and helped with the décor.” D.C. interior and exterior; hommos; was outreach for us. This has been ‘Lebanese’ Taverna was born.” She attributes the restaurants’ the first Lebanese Taverna, Arlington; a successful format for us, and we Abi-Najm family. Gladys said, “The chefs were 39-year longevity to “our custom-

Keep it small and manageable. Even if your family isn’t working with you, make sure you have their support and that of your loved ones. There will be times when you will need it!—Gladys Abi-Najm, Lebanese Taverna

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 7 Stone-ground Baked Grits

Shrimp Louie

It’s definitely location times part of each season. We are 35 three. “My husband is the execu- fortunate to have several farm- tive chef of our three restaurants ers within a 60-mile radius who EST. 1982 (Highlands Bar and Grill, Bottega, keep us informed of what will be YRS and Chez Fonfon). The restau- harvested within the month, and rants are within a three block this helps define our menus. We Pardis Stitt radius, in an area named Five also have our own farm where Points, close to downtown. There we grow a variety of greens and (Birmingham) is a quirky vibe to the neighbor- other vegetables. I love working Highland Bar and Grill hood, with a mix of residential at our farm. Gardening brings me www.highlandsbarandgrill.com and commercial, and several tremendous joy!” stately buildings from the 1920’s.” Joy is also the many honors “It seems we are always in the accorded Highlands, which has Quality, Graciousness, & Consistency midst of renovations—trying to been nominated for Outstand- make our spaces more attractive, ing Restaurant by the James Lead to Highlands Bar Success comfortable, and exciting. There Beard Foundation for the last is a continual quest to create the nine years. And Frank Stitt, As co-owner of Highlands Bar tuted a sense of hospitality. Food magic of what makes a truly great among numerous honors such & Grill, Pardis Stitt focuses on and gracious hospitality are im- restaurant. All three restaurants as the Craig Claiborne Lifetime front-of-house operations. “Her portant aspects in both Southern are housed in buildings built in Achievement Award from the influence and charm are evident and Persian cultures. the 1920’s, and they were not Southern Foodways Alliance, was from the moment you walk into Pardis became interested in the intended for hundreds of people named to the James Beard Foun- the restaurant. Her attention to restaurant business when “A close to come through on a weekly dation’s “Who’s Who of Food detail and warm welcome make friend of mine who managed a basis, so the renovation and and Beverage in America.” Highlands so inviting. Without restaurant in Birmingham was maintenance line on our financial “But ultimately, it goes back to her, the Highlands is not the short staffed one weekend and statements is always high! providing an incredible experi- Highlands,” award-winning chef asked me to help her on the door. “It’s a balancing act to keep up ence so our guests want to come Frank Stitt, Pardis’ husband, told I was immediately smitten with with food trends. Many favorites back again and again,” believes The New York Times in 2013. the whirl and rush of activity and have become signature dishes, Pardis. “The biggest advertise- She attributes the 36-year asked if I could come back the leaving less room for newer items. ment is by word of mouth.” longevity of their restaurant to following week.” If we decide to pull one of the And that goes for Dames in the “quality, graciousness, consis- Now balancing a staff of 170 favorites off of the menu to add Birmingham Chapter. Pardis says, tency. Being in the restaurants in the couple’s three restaurants, more new dishes, it upsets our “Les Dames provides a network and working alongside the Pardis said that if they are short guests. Then we go back and add with individuals in our commu- staff. Mutual respect for the staffed, “we take tables out and that item again. I would love to nity who share similar interests, staff, guests, purveyors, and our reconfigure the ‘floor’—would know how others approach this concerns, and challenges. I broader community.” Indeed, it’s rather have fewer covers and situation,” she mused. love the opportunity to gather the Birmingham-raised woman of take care of our guests instead of “We typically change menus and celebrate with my fellow Persian heritage who has insti- spreading the staff too thin.” early, middle, and the latter Dames.”—By CiCi Williamson

THINKING OF OPENING Provide a place the community needs or wants. Start small and take the time to grow. Pay bills on time. YOUR OWN RESTAURANT? Treat staff, guests, and purveyors with respect.—Pardis Stitt, Highlands Bar and Grill

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 33 ing, word of mouth, and connect- Chef Masters,” making it to the ing with potential customers.” finale and winning $40,000 for EST. 1985 Regarding food trends, Mary Sue her charity, Share Our Strength, said, “We change the menu all the where she has been a fundraiser, YRS time and get inspired by seasonal board member and advocate offerings at local farmers markets. since 1987. Mary Sue Milliken We are constantly trying to stay Back to the future, Mary Sue became the first female chef at (LA/OC) current even if it’s in our restau- rants in sunny California or the Chicago’s Le Perroquet in 1978, Border Grill hot Nevada desert. But in order and went on to refine her skills in www.bordergrill.com for a new trendy item to earn a Paris at Restaurant d’Olympe, a place on the menu, we all have woman-owned, Michelin two-star to agree that it’s more delicious restaurant. In 1993, she helped Road Trip in a VW Bug than what it’s replacing. If it does found Women Chefs & Restau- taste better, then it just becomes a rateurs and Chefs Collaborative. Inspired a Restaurant Empire marketing exercise and getting the In addition to WCR and James Beard Awards, Susan and Mary Enrolling in culinary school at own restaurant seemed to be the staff excited to sell the product.” To overcome staffing and Sue were named CalTravel Restau- age 17, Mary Sue Milliken prob- smartest path forward.” rateur of the Year 2011 “for their ably didn’t envision that today “Susan and I made the best maintenance challenges, Mary Sue believes “Promoting a sense of tremendous impact in nationally she and her business partner of decisions we could, given our ex- promoting a colorful, fun side of 35 years, Chef Susan Feniger, perience levels, and in most cases teamwork and accountability and making your staff happy creates California’s restaurant industry.” would own five eateries plus food we got lucky! We followed our Mary Sue was selected to serve the trucks and employ 400. The pair gut and examined many options loyalty, and they all fill in for each other. Restaurants are about 10 U. S. State Department as a mem- was inspired to begin their first before making a decision. We are ber of the American Chef Corps, Border Grill, after a 1985 road very persistent and never give up. times more expensive to maintain than a house! You also have to find working in Pakistan, Malta, trip far south of the Mexican Border Grill Santa Monica was in and Italy to promote diplomacy ways to work with your landlord border in a VW bug. business for 27 years, our Down- through food. and all of their stipulations.” “I’ve never regretted being in the town LA location has been here She concluded, “I’m excited In addition to being a restaura- restaurant business,” said Mary for 20 years, and our Mandalay about #TimesUp, a movement teur, Mary Sue has co-authored Sue. “This is probably because of Bay location just turned 19. We against sexual harassment. I think the strong community of women also treat the business like every five cookbooks, co-starred in it’s going to have a really positive I’ve met who are passionate and day is a new day, every customer is nearly 400 episodes of the Food effect on the restaurant indus- inspiring. The feeling that we’re a new customer; we’re constantly Network’s “Too Hot Tamales,” try.”—By CiCi Williamson in this together is unbeatable. I’ve trying to evolve our concept and and co-hosted a food-centered radio show for over a decade Susan Feniger (left) and Mary Sue always been entrepreneurial, even improve it. We promote our Milliken taught Julia Child how to from a young age. Being in a restaurants through community in Los Angeles. She competed make naan in the tandoori oven at male dominated field, owning my involvement, grass roots market- on season three of Bravo’s “Top their first restaurant, CITY.

Peruvian Ceviche

Skillet menu item

Go work in a restaurant first and make sure that you have the temperament for the hours and intensity. It’s also important to understand the restaurant business model. Knowing how to cook and give good service is only half of the battle. You also have to be able to generate enough money to pay the bills and, hopefully, have a little left over.—Mary Sue Milliken, Border Grill Restaurants

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 9 Painted Desert Soup

"Sticks and Stones"

30 life, and Liz—a woman in a doubled weekly sales,” said Liz. male dominated film industry “Today, the average annual sales EST. 1988 (“Sweetie, get me a cup of cof- at a Blue Mesa is $3.25 million.” YRS fee”)—decided to be a teacher “One major contribution I and do her artwork on the side, specifically brought to the table which was her true passion. is making our dining experience Liz Baron “Jim would come home frus- very affordable. We had two (Dallas) trated from work,” Liz explained, young children and were on a Blue Mesa Grill “and together we would fan- limited budget. We built sales www.bluemesagrill.com tasize about starting our own based on the frequency of visits, restaurant. He would throw out not a high check average.” concepts, and I would help by Liz and Jim’s company now has drawing story boards and eleva- five Blue Mesa Grills, a franchi- Blue Mesa Named Third Best tions showing the exterior and see with two Blue Mesa Taco interior of the restaurant or the & Tequila Bars in airports, and Brunch in the World signage and menu design.” two TNT/Tacos and Tequila Assigned to turn around some restaurants (Dallas and Austin). Following non-cooking careers World” (in the value segment) El Torito restaurants in Texas Their opt-in rewards group, the in New York and California, from International Restaurant (Cal-Mex did not compute in the “Chileheads,” is now 175,000 Liz Baron and her husband Jim and Hotel Awards. It’s been land of Tex-Mex), Jim and Liz strong. They started Good Karma developed their mega-successful named “Best Happy Hour,” “Best first developed and opened Cali- Guacamole where they donate Blue Mesa Grills in the Dallas Margarita,” and “Best Tortilla ente, a Mexican cantina. It was 50 cents to a local charity each area. Liz, a graphic artist with Soup” in D Magazine (beating a success but not the brand they time a tableside guacamole is or- a Masters in TV and Radio out The Mansion’s), and has been wanted to run with. Blue Mesa dered. They have donated almost Production, and Jim, a Ph.D. recognized by The Dallas Business Grill emerged as the concept $240,000 since its inception. in Counseling Psychology, have Journal as the largest restaurant that they could put their name Dallas Dames have been seven restaurants and approxi- caterer in North Texas. on. “The Santa Fe lifestyle was involved in Blue Mesa. Sharon mately 600 employees including According to Liz, “My hus- the best way to frame what we Hage has worked numerous 36 general managers, assistant band’s and my route to the wanted to offer (lighter, fresher, times as the Barons’ consult- managers, and catering manag- restaurant business was, at best, and more contemporary) using ing chef; Paula Lambert’s ers. And their 30-year old son, circuitous.” Tired of sitting in a the ingredients of Mexico and goat cheese and Bonnie Itzig’s Zak, (the same age as the com- room with patients, Jim got hired the Southwest—and one that was proprietary tea and coffee have pany) runs one of their Dallas by PepsiCo to work in California reasonably priced.” Borrowing been on the menu for 20 years, restaurants. at Taco Bell. He developed per- $250,000 and the name (which and Dedie Leahy was the Among numerous accolades, formance management systems they later trademarked) from original PR person. Liz states, Blue Mesa Grill has been listed for their 15,000 managers. Liz a margarita that El Torito was “The Dames have always been as one of the 12 most popular worked as a film production as- testing, the Barons converted El a sounding board and resource restaurants in the Dallas-Fort sistant. After 10 years at Taco Bell Torito’s Tequila Wilie’s to Blue for me and the source of several Worth area by the Zagat guide and then El Torito, Jim realized Mesa Grill in Addison in 1988. decades-long friendships.”—By and “Third Best Brunch in the that he did not like corporate “Within a couple of months, we CiCi Williamson

THINKING OF OPENING Despite the tongue and cheek, ‘our success is one failure after another,’ is not really a joke. Hard work, YOUR OWN RESTAURANT? perseverance, and resilience are the keys to success. —Liz Baron, Blue Mesa Grill

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 30 café offering Mexico’s street food creating community within the and snacks such as empanadas restaurants. I think that means EST. 1987 1989 and churros we’re a little insulated from the YRS “The concepts were some- trappings of shift work at other thing we always felt strongly restaurants,” she believes. about—that we needed to “We have always had that sense Deann Bayless translate Mexico’s cuisine for of wanting to nurture people, (Chicago) American diners in a respectful wanting to look for the best in Frontera Grill & Topolobampo and honest way. We simply fell people, and wanting to bring www.fronteragrill.com in love with the idea of hosting a it out. There’s magic in that. nightly Mexican feast, one that’s Beyond that, we simply care a expressed with local ingredients great deal about the experience and served with generous-spirit- of our guests. We have different Owning Two of the Best ed Mexican hospitality. And the concepts for each place, but it’s chef? Well, he knows what he’s not a moving target: we want Restaurants in America doing,” chuckled Deann. our food to stand out and we The couple changes menus at want to deliver an unforgettable Opening two Chicago restau- “But even before that, I loved their restaurants roughly every rants in two years is difficult food, and I loved to entertain. experience,” said Deann. enough. But making them so Rick came from a restaurant fam- four weeks to take advantage of Cookbooks and Rick’s PBS- good they each won the James ily and I just knew this is some- seasonal produce. (“Yes, even in TV show, “Mexico One Plate Beard Award for best restaurant in thing we could do. The location the Chicago winter,” she said.) at a Time” (for 11 years), help America? Darned near impossible, sort of fell into place. We took a With an eye to food trends, encourage customers. “It’s our but tell that to Deann Bayless very big chance locating Frontera Deann said, “One question we hope that when readers and and her chef/husband Rick who Grill in Chicago’s River North always ask ourselves is ‘What viewers see the care we put into opened Frontera Grill (1987) and neighborhood way back in 1987. would this menu look like if we highlighting the amazing culture Topolobampo (1989). The former But it worked, and years later we opened today’ and not, say, 30 and cuisine of Mexico, they’ll be won the award in 2007, and the have three places, all side-by-side. years ago? It’s an enlightening, inclined to join us at one of our latter, in 2017. The restaurants The Bayless’ second restaurant, fruitful exercise.” restaurants. And once we have were a result of travel research for Topolobampo, is named for a Whereas most restaurants have them there, it’s up to our teams a cookbook. port on the Gulf of California in staffing challenges, Deann attri- to wow them,” she said. “Rick and I embarked on a Sinaloa, Mexico, and is the quiet, butes staffing as one of the main Deann is a longtime member of journey of crisscrossing the entire sleek, classy sister of Frontera factors in the long life of their the Chicago Chapter. She con- Mexican republic to research Au- Grill, which is known for wood- restaurants. “What I think has cludes, “This is a very interesting thentic Mexican: Regional Cooking grilled meat, ceviche, and terrific always set us apart is a commit- and exhilarating time for women from the Heart of Mexico (1987). margaritas. Their third restaurant, ment to education. Virtually ev- in this profession. Having a net- The publication of that book Xoco—pronounced “SHO- ery day in our restaurants there is work of support is perhaps more coincided with the opening of ko”—is the Aztec word for “little a class of some kind taking place, valuable now than ever.”—By Frontera Grill,” explained Deann. sister,” and it’s a quick-service and I think that translates to CiCi Williamson

You can be nurturing and you can be strong at the same time. You can be a leader. You don’t have to take the traditional male model. You can do it all through your own personalities, whatever they may be. —Deann Bayliss, Frontera Grill, Chicago

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 11 21 the location we found had had products. Our farmers know we two previous, successful owners. will use their product throughout EST. 1997 I knew my husband could cook; the year, and the product must YRS he’d already been around the remain high quality.” world and worked with greats. “We are fortunate to have young It was just figuring out if our kitchen staff who love to bring Stephanie Jaeger customers would understand the in new ideas, and Scott can say (British Columbia) ‘European’ style we wanted to ‘no’ only so many times, ergo Pear Tree Restaurant portray, with Canadian ingre- new items are tested often. But dients, in a suburban area. We we do have some ‘classics’ that we www.peartreerestaurant.net wanted to bring quality, not are told ‘can never come off the quantity—the best we could to menu.’” the table.” Pear Tree Restaurant won fourth European Style with Canadian Stephanie is the front-of-house place in Vancouver Magazine’s manager. They employ five in the “restaurant of the year” for Ingredients in a Suburban Area kitchen and two on the floor. She both 2016 and 2017, and has attributes the long life of their been listed in Burnaby’s Best restaurant to “Persistence, deter- fine dining five years running Score: Renovation, one; Fire, ments. Fires and alarms are only mination, and probably a lot of from Burnaby Now. Stephanie zero. About nine years after a couple of challenges to running stubbornness. We have certainly is a board member of Burnaby’s Stephanie Jaeger and her hus- a successful restaurant, which the had down times, of course, when Empty Bowls, an organization band, Scott, opened their Pear Jaegers have done for 21 years. the economy was bad, but you dedicated to alleviating hunger Tree Restaurant, the buildings Canadian born Stephanie’s first couldn’t quit then. We’ve worked in Burnaby, and she is an active on either side were completely restaurant job was as a too hard to get this far.” member of the BC Chapter. destroyed by a four-alarm fire. at Beachside Café, which was “We actually do very little “Les Dames has introduced me Janet Mc- “We had done a renovation in owned and run by promotion. It’s a lot by word to some wonderful women that I quire October of 2005 and updated , a founder of the BC Chap- of mouth and longevity. We do can not only call friends but also the walls and roof. It saved the ter. Her foray into the restaurant make a point of meeting as many get to promote their products building.” The couple also industry began at the Beachside new restaurateurs so the industry through my restaurant. It has escorted an unaware 85-year-old Café in West Vancouver, gaining knows us well. We have produced helped develop my courage; it’s grandmother and her 9-year old experience in the Dundarave area some great servers and cooks who amazing to talk to mentors and granddaughter out to the street before jetting off to Europe for still promote us even though they realize they too go through simi- from an endangered apartment three months. Upon returning, aren’t with us anymore.” lar highs and lows, struggles and behind the building. she met and married Scott, and The Pear Tree has a seasonal, successes,” reveals Stephanie. Another time, a 3:00 a.m. call they opened Pear Tree Restaurant three-course table d’hote that And the “handwriting on the from the security company was in 1997, located about eight changes about every four wall?” It was fingerprints left by the result of a Christmas tree miles from downtown Vancouver. weeks. “Other than that,” said firemen checking the temperature that had fallen over, shattering “We were very young and more Stephanie, “we tweak during the during the four-alarm fire.—By the beautiful glass pear orna- then naïve,” she admitted, “but year but try and use the same CiCi Williamson

THINKING OF OPENING Have patience, determination, and open mindedness. It’s an industry that is always changing, for the YOUR OWN RESTAURANT? better or worse. You need to be willing to ride the wave, learn, and strive forward. Most of all don’t forget about your friends and family; you will need them.—Stephanie Jaeger, Pear Tree Restaurant

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 23 “The reason our restaurant has “We have a large following been successful for so many years and have built and maintained EST. 1995 is that we and our staff care about relationships with many taste- YRS our guests. We always keep our makers and influencers. We are cuisine ‘edgy,’—at the forefront constantly updating our database, of creativity, pioneering novel keeping our customers fully Pervin Todiwala ideas with a great ethos based updated with events, menu, etc., (London) upon sustainability, supporting and maintaining a strong social Café Spice Namaste our British produce, and working media presence.” with some amazing producers Pervin reports, “We also run www.cafespice.co.uk and suppliers.” Pervin opined. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen at Hilton The Todiwalas don’t follow trends London Heathrow Airport T5, Longest Running Michelin Bib as much as start them. “We are and the signature restaurant in actually pioneers, and many follow one of Goa’s top resorts, the Gourmand Restaurant in the World our new and different items,” Per- Acron Waterfront Resort, in vin revealed. “We have a monthly Baga. We have an on-line shop Graduating with honors from don. However, being only a half changing menu based purely upon for our pickles, spices, spice the Institute of Hotel Manage- mile from The Tower of London, British seasonality. We do specials mixes and other products at ment in Bombay (now Mumbai), this area has grown in popular- and club dinner events. All these www.mrtodiwala.com, and we one of the top hospitality schools ity as more and more Londoners constitute a varied offering which will be opening a new restau- in India, Pervin Todiwala then move east,” she explained. makes us stand out from other rant later this year.” Café Spice trained to be a chef at the Taj “In the beginning, we were far restaurants. We never stand still!” Namaste’s activities also dem- Mahal Hotel, a renowned world too naive about the U.K., but “We have about 30 employ- onstrate the philanthropic ethos hostelry there. After marrying we learned a great deal from our ees partly made up of staff that of Parsees, the community that Cyrus Todiwala, she became partner, Michael Got- joined us from the start—not Cyrus and Pervin belong to. a restaurant manager so Chef tlieb, what it takes to make a res- just Cafe Spice Namaste but Among it supports are Learn- Cyrus wouldn’t be her boss. taurant succeed with consistently also from the old restaurant we ing for Life, PAH Breast Trials, “We came to the U.K. on my good food and service. Café Spice used to run for the other owner. ABF The Soldiers’ Charityand of husband’s work permit and took Namaste soon became a landmark They will—more often than course the charitable work of the over an ailing restaurant. Eventu- restaurant and is now almost an not—solve problems themselves, London Chapter. ally with some new partners, Café institution 23 years later.” and occasionally we depend on “Being a Dame has been a won- Spice Namaste opened its doors The family-run restaurant has help from an agency. Our sons, derful opportunity to meet other in November 1995,” she said. won many awards and is the Hormuzd and Jamsheed use their inspirational women and women Namaste is a respectful greeting longest running Michelin Bib talents to help the business, too.” who love food,” Pervin said. “The usually spoken with a slight bow Gourmand restaurant in the Repairs and upgrades are, by camaraderie is wonderful and and hands pressed together. world. The award—for cooking far, their greatest battle, and they I only wish I had the time to “Much to the disappointment and affordability—is named for struggle but manage in bits and attend more events. The Dames’ of our partners, who wanted us Bibendum, the 1898 Michelin pieces. “We are not cash rich to do Edible London’ tour in London to go into the then-more-popular Man mascot. The restaurant has full refurbishments,” said Pervin, included Café Spice Namaste West End, Cyrus and I made one won many national sustainability “but we always try to do things in twice. We were very pleased to be wrong choice, and that was the and recycling awards, the Best In- stages and keep the restaurant as able to share our knowledge of location—in London’s eastern dian Restaurant in the U.K. and ship shape as best we can within Indian cuisine with these fabu- Whitechapel neighborhood. The Best Front of House for Pervinby the constraints of a tight cash flow lous women who had travelled so building is c. 1760 and was the BIBA (Best in Britain Awards), and other more urgent matters far to be with us in London.”— criminal court house of East Lon- and many others. from time to time.” By CiCi Williamson

Goan Style Kangaroo Assado with Uttappa

You have to be patient and learn to expect the unexpected. Don’t let things faze you as there always is a way to overcome things. Keep a tight ship; watch the bottom line. Stick to what you are good at but never stop learning and watching the market. And be good to your staff, customers and suppliers. They will be your champions whatever happens. —Pervis Todiwala, Cafe Spice Namaste, London

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 13 Support Green Tables: The Agricultural & Civic Initiative of LDEI

By Arnell Hinkle, RD, MPH (San Francisco) Co-Chair, Green Tables Since its inception in 2006, Green Tables (GT) has become integral to the work of LDEI. GT projects en- gage LDEI members in myriad ways (see GT Chapter Projects at www. ldei.org for examples). The primary goals of GT are: • Promote com- munity health and well-being Arnell Hinkle • Foster LDEI’s leadership in the sustainable food move- ment GT event at St. Louis Farmers Market • Build upon tives, and educational efforts which as much as consume, our natural existing com- positively affect the public health of resources and the food we farm, munity food, our communities fish, buy, and eat gardening and Amy Myrdal Miller • Educating ourselves and others • Creating a more efficient system agriculture about the intersection of food and where less of our food is wasted and efforts health travels fewer miles • Inspire focus on the value of local • Buying, developing, or pioneering • Educating ourselves and our com- farmers and enhance the use of lo- new products munity to ensure our food creation cally grown food • Changing values and practices in and preparation choices will leave • Share our skills and knowledge to our businesses to arch towards our planet in a better state than we further the local food movement healthy foods find it today. and enhance public health • Participating in broad initiatives How to Get Involved In 2018 and beyond, LDEI seeks to that move our society towards inspire members to adopt more GT healthier practices Unlike our planet’s resources, the values and practices within their own • Taking actions and making deci- ways that LDEI chapters can get food businesses and professional ac- sions that support access to good involved in Green Tables are endless. tivities. Such member-driven efforts, food and fare wages for all who If you have ideas for a GT project, along with GT projects within our participate in the food system please contact your local or inter- chapters, will demonstrate the leader- • Working to improve the distribu- national GT liaison. To learn more ship of LDEI members to promote tion of healthful fresh food across about GT, check out the LDEI web the growth of a more healthful, equi- our communities site, and consider participating in the table and sustainable food system in • Eliminating wage disparities in our GT workshop at our annual confer- their own communities and beyond. food-focused businesses ence in Seattle. If your chapter is in- As LDEI chapters and as individual • Ensuring that all public school volved in a GT project, please let my professionals, we can support the children—regardless of their ZIP co-chair, Amy Myrdal Miller (San goals of GT by: Code—are offered healthful fresh Francisco), and me know so that we • Pursuing and supporting products, food at school can share your experiences in a future business models, programs, initia- • Supporting practices that replace, issue of the LDEI Quarterly magazine.

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International . The Seattle Great Wheel. Will it be the Brock Circle for a day? Photos by Cynthia Nims

OCTOBER 11-14, 2018 “Bright Ideas” in the Planning for Seattle Conference

By Cynthia Nims, Seattle farming, international influences in the re- Conference Co-chair gion, history of our food and wine traditions, technology, and more. And of course, you The Seattle conference team is picking up should have every opportunity to remain well serious steam, with planning well underway caffeinated throughout, should you wish! for our gathering here in October. If only The formal theme for the conference is the conference were a full week long, we just “Gray Skies, Bright Ideas,” with the intent of might have a chance to cover every interest- ing, delicious, inspiring, creative, innovative highlighting new, innovative, creative devel- thing going on with food and beverage in opments in the culinary realm today. But our the city. But know that we’re doing our best team is also embracing a thread of storytelling to pack the conference days with program- that we hope to weave through conference as ming and events that will make the most well. The art of storytelling is making a resur- of your time here. There will be plenty of gence in the face of our modern, hyper-digital opportunities for professional development communication habits today. The power of and education, complemented by distinctive telling a good story can, by contrast, have a Northwest cuisine. wine and agricultural offerings of our Dames more profound impact, both in professional Our hope is to provide you with a select list in Eastern Washington, and the other hosted interactions and our personal lives. We will of local restaurants and other culinary desti- by the wonderful Dames up in the Vancouver, see where that thread leads us. nations (bakeries, chocolatiers, coffee and tea BC chapter. We hope that many of you will This year, the local off-site event that is usu- shops, bars, etc.) in the city—as well as some be able to extend your stay to take in either ally held on Friday night will be instead on hints about neighborhoods to visit, maybe a planned extra activities or explorations on Saturday night (swapping with the Grande brief excursion or two outside the city—in your own. Or why not both?! Dame Award Dinner, which will be Fri- the next month or so, to help you with some As I write this, it’s too early for confirmation day). It will be a dazzling, colorful evening advance planning for your time in Seattle. In of most programming; we’re in the thick of complete with trapeze artistry and jazz music. addition to an array of interesting pre-confer- outreach and discussions right now. But we This will be a particularly apt send-off, a ence tours on Thursday, we do plan to offer a can say that among topics we hope to touch fun and dynamic way to wrap up the 2018 couple of post-conference overnight tours as on are local heritage grains, Northwest oysters conference. You might think about packing well. One will be to explore the outstanding and other seafood, local beverages of all sorts, something with a bit of color!

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 15 2018 LDEI Board Meets in New York City By Bev Shaffer, Cleveland/ I updated everyone on the Affinity Program. We then moved on to strategic visioning for Northeast Ohio Chapter; 2nd I am working toward garnering Affinity dis- 2018 and spent a very productive day working Vice President, LDEI Board counts and deals for our members in Canada, on new initiatives (with multiple assignments England, and Mexico, who often are not able for each Board member). It was agreed that the Our first face-to-face meeting of 2018, on to take advantage of current offers. Board should always be aware of deliverables, January 26-28, felt as if it were straight out of Third Vice President Kathy Gold is work- that we need to continue to connect with “Empire State of Mind” by Alicia Keys: ing on social media promotional tasks and members and deliver value back to our Dames. There’s nothing you can’t do sending releases for items such as the M.F.K. As a Board, we will be reaching out more Now you’re in New York Fisher Awards. with chapter engagement by visiting chap- These streets will make you feel brand new Treasurer Sharon Olson reviewed the ters whenever possible and connecting with Big lights will inspire you… December 2017 statements and assured the the general membership. Other initiatives While musicians were practic- Board, “We are in a strong financial position included working on helping chapters with ing for the Grammy Awards with the resources we need to further our promotional materials, thanking members for and celebrities were walking the mission of education and philanthropy.” attending conference (especially but not lim- red carpet, your LDEI Board Secretary Deborah Mintcheff presented the ited to first time attendees), creating a shared Members gathered enthusiasti- Board with a completed Chapter Formation resource of “category experts” by asking each cally to continue to work for our Questionnaire for Paris, and we approved chapter what they do best, and continuing to membership. proceeding through the multi-step process drive the message that this is a business and During the Friday afternoon session at Hil- toward a potential LDEI Paris Chapter. a professional organization, not a club. We ton Midtown, the Board began the weekend Chapter Board Liaisons (CBLs) Julie Cher- will strive to create an environment where the with an icebreaker provided by President noff, Beth Vlasich Pav, and Drew Faulkner media looks to us first for trending forecasts. Hayley Matson-Mathes. We asked ourselves: are asking the same questions on each confer- We will fine tune, tweaking where necessary, What is the most stressful thing about your ence call with their chapter presidents, and anything that does not appropriately fill a job? A life goal you are working on? What do then they share informational reports to all “value proposition” for our members. you do to revive yourself? What’s one thing chapters. This has been well received. All of us left each day’s meetings exhausted, you love about your job? It was easy to relax Greg Jewell reported on the conference but full of a sense of eagerness to bring great and laugh when one Board member said, survey, and the Board reviewed the results. value to our membership and continue to “I’ve been a life long procrastinator…and I Hayley assured us that these results were serve them well. plan to be better in the future!” shared with the upcoming Seattle conference After Friday’s meeting, we gathered at The remainder of Friday and all day Saturday, chairs. The Seattle Conference promises to be Grande Dame Lidia Bastianich’s restaurant, we got down to business. First Vice President informative, delicious, and fun! Felidia, for a very special meal featuring an- Ann Stratte discussed the Patron program Past President Stacy Zeigler gave us an tipasto, primo, secondi and dolci. Even though and Partnerships. As Second Vice President, update on The Brock Circle, including the her night was extremely busy, Lidia graciously I reported on the Quarterly, both the Confer- upcoming formation of a Brock Circle Ad- stopped in to welcome us all. The entire meal ence and Spring issues and my work with edi- visory Board. Past President Maria Gomez was assolutamente delizioso! tors Susan Slack and CiCi Williamson, and stopped in and reported on hotel site visits for Saturday evening we were hosted by mem- our potential New York 2020 conference. bers of the New York Chapter at a cocktail 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International NEW TO THE LDEI BOARD FOR 2018

Drew Spangler Faulkner CHAPTER BOARD LIAISON A respected chef, culinary educator, and journalist, Drew began her career with Madeleine Kamman learning classic French and Italian techniques. She went on to work in a number of well-known, innovative restaurants in the Boston and San Francisco areas, emerging as an executive chef at restaurants in both the U.S. and Canada. Today her energy is focused on writing and teaching. She has taught extensively at both professional and recreational schools including the Culinary Institute of America and L’Academie de Cuisine. She currently teaches through the Montgomery County Department of Recreation. Drew’s culinary writing has been published in both regional and international publications; her most recent writing appears in Farm- ing Magazine. She blogs at CookingWithDrew.com. Drew is past president of the Washington, D.C., Chapter.

Sharon Olson reception, followed by Greek Mediterranean TREASURER specialties at Chef/Owner Maria Loi’s Loi Estia- torio. A selection of Greek appetizers was served Sharon has been immersed in food industry marketing family style followed by our choice of entrée for over 30 years. She was a vice president at two leading and assorted traditional Greek desserts. For this foodservice agencies prior to forming Olson Communica- deliciousness, Maria, we say sasefkharisto! tions in 1988. She also formed the Culinary Visions Panel New York Dames in attendance were: Joan in 2002 that surveys opinion leaders and consumers on Brower, President; Sharon Franke, Vice Presi- emerging trends in the food industry and is co-founder of dent; Ronnie Campbell, Secretary; Jennifer Y-Pulse LLC (www.ypulse.org), a youth trend-tracking or- O’Flanagan, Treasurer; LDEI Board Member and ganization. Sharon often writes and speaks on trends in the NY Chapter Parliamentarian Deborah Mintcheff; food industry, most recently presenting original research Directors at Large Beth Allen, Barbara Sibley, at the NRA Show, CIA, the National Association of College and University Food Suzen O’Rourke, Janeen Sarlin, Liz Schaible Services national conference, and The Flavor Experience. Sharon holds an MBA and Alison Awerbuch; as well as Marsha Palanci, with distinction from DeVry University’s Keller Graduate School of Management Rita Jammet, and Aileen Robbins. and served on the advisory board for the Hotel and Restaurant Program at Ashland University. She is past president of the Chicago Chapter. Thank you, New York Dames, for your love and hospitality. Once you spend time with them, you understand why Nora Ephron said: “I look out the window and I see the lights Beth Vlasich Pav and the skyline and the people on the street CHAPTER BOARD LIAISON rushing around looking for action, love, After beginning her career as a TV and video writer/pro- and the world’s best chocolate chip cookie ducer, a two-month European journey changed the course and my heart does a little dance!” of Beth Pav’s life. She returned with a passion for creating the endless possibilities that begin with fresh, wholesome Top Row: TimesSquare. Credit © NYC & Company, ingredients. She graduated from L’ Academie de Cuisine Marley White. Seated: Sharon Franke, Marcia Palanci, and took additional classes at the Culinary Institute of Bev Shaffer, Ann Stratte, Beth Pav, Aileen Robbins, Sharon Olson, Jennifer O’Flanagan, Drew Faulkner. America. Then she opened Cooking by Design Culinary Standing: Stacy Zeigler, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Studio in Austin, Texas, as a home base for private cooking Rita Jammet, Janeen Sarlin, Joan Brower, Beth Allen, classes, food styling, and her personal chef service. In ad- Deborah Mintcheff, Barbara Sibley, Kathy Gold, Suzen dition to being a celebrated chef, Beth is a renowned culinary instructor, recipe- and O’Rourke, Deborah Mintcheff, (obscured Alison Awer- menu-developer, and a writer. Enthusiasts enjoy her popular online journal, “Fresh buch), Ronnie Campbell, Liz Schaible, Maria Loi. Photo: Mike Mathes. Lower Manhattan. Credit © NYC & from Beth,” and print articles on her gastronomic, lifestyle, and adventure-travel Company, Julienne Schaer. Bottom Row: Barbara Sibley, stories. Beth is a member of the Austin Chapter and is a 16-year member of IACP. Janeen Sarlin, Deborah Mintcheff, Beth Allen. Photo: Mike Mathes. Ann Stratte, Alison Awerbuch, Suzen O’Rourke. Photo: Mike Mathes. New York Chapter President Joan Brower, Chef/Owner Maria Loi. Photo: Note: Extensive bios of officers who served on the 2017 board and continue on Bev Shaffer. LDEI President Hayley Matson-Mathes, the 2018 board are on pages 11-13 of the Spring 2017 Quarterly. Grand Dame Lidia Bastianich. Photo: Bev Shaffer. Liz Schaible, Ronnie Campbell, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Sharon Franke. Photo: Mike Mathes. SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 17 2017 LEGACY AWARDS

Winners’ WINE CATEGORY WINNER Ann Brydle, General Manager, Cascadia Liquor Quadra Village Reports Victoria, BC, Canada Hosted by Kari Leitch (Seattle) Chateau Ste.c Michellele Cir ck Shara Bohach and o r Becky Paris Turner, B I can still feel the nervous Legacy Awards L Committee Co-Chairs anticipation I felt as I walked D up to the winery on my first EI Established in 2009, the Legacy day. I knew that the next Awards provide targeted mentor- four days were going to be ship opportunities for women unforgettable, but I couldn’t who are not members of LDEI. have guessed at how impact- Eligible women must have at ful the experience would least four years of experience be. Having the chance to working in the food, meet with women in every beverage and hospi- department of the winery was Escoffier I truly special. I gotEs ctoof fihaveer I an ’Escoffier I d’ nte d’ nt s d nte tality industries. es rn es ern e rn am at insider’s lookam into an industryat am at io io io Each Legacy D D D s n s n s n e a that I’vee only justInvesting begun a e a l l l Award winner is L L L sponsored by an to explore, andin tomorrow’s an under - accomplished standing offood, just beverage,how mul - Investing in tomorrow’s tifaceted it can& hospitality be. Up to food, beverage, & Dame for a L L L hospitality leaders E this point,E my passionleaders for E S one-week work- S S G D wine has Gfelt like a hobby, D G D A R A R A R place experience C A C A C A at her business Y AW relevant to my career,Y A butW Y AW not a career itself. But after ways that I can share my pas- to have been a part of it. in the U.S., U.K., sion and knowledge with my I feel extremely fortunate Canada, or Mexico. seeing the depth of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s operations, the guests to elevate the shop- to have been chosen for the The Julia Child Foundation for ping experience at Cascadia Legacy Award Experience at Gastronomy and the Culi- impressive production facil- ity, the gorgeous (and newly Liquor. Chateau Ste. Michelle this nary Arts generously supports A favourite memory from year. My time at the winery the Awards. “Year after year, renovated) tasting room, I now see the full potential of the trip was spending a day in was exciting and inspiring the Foundation finds it very Seattle with chapter president and gave me the opportunity gratifying to see how much all my passion and wide range of possibilities it can lead me to. Jamie Peha. Jamie took me on to see how a passion can be the participants get out of this a whirlwind tour of the city turned in to a reality. The worthwhile program,” said Todd One particular aspect of the winery that stands out to introducing me to incred- gratitude I have—for my Schulkin, Executive Director, of ible Dames along the way. host, Kari Leitch, for the the Foundation. “LDEI’s Legacy me is the incredible tasting room and all of the unique Again, seeing the full range Seattle president, Jamie Peha, Awards continue to set the stan- of opportunities available in for all the women I met at dard for how food industry educational aspects created to engage guests. The blending the beverage industry was eye- CSM, and for the whole Les mentors can not only yield great opening and inspiring! All the Dames d’Escoffier Interna- outcomes but inspire all of us room, the sensory sojourn, the food and wine pairing, Dames I met were brimming tional organization—is deep to give back and set lofty new with kindness, knowledge, and full. I am excited to take goals. The Foundation is proud the Bottega, Enoteca, and more; the tasting room at and enthusiastic ambition for what I learned from all these to support this innovative and their craft and their com- women, apply it to my career, effective program.” CSM is so much more than just a tasting room. It is an munity. I was blown away by and offer the same kind of Applications are accepted from the network of support and guidance to young women in March through late April. enticing and enriching experi- ence, one that has inspired creativity that these women my own community who are me to think creatively about cultivated and feel privileged just starting out.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International FARM-TO-TABLE WINNER Shelley Robinson Director of Culinary for ESS support services worldwide Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Hosted by Barbara Hanley (Boston) Shy Brothers Farm

When my close pal Dawn being aligned on many views Doucette (British Columbia) sent including politics, food sover- me the application for the legacy eignty, waste, homelessness, and award scholarship, I had no idea “when would be the best time to what adventures awaited me. I was buy avocados” for the upcoming honoured that my application was luncheon Barbara was hosting. accepted and I was granted the Westport Point is a small 2017 Farm- to-Table award, which historic village scattered with was hosted by Barbara Hanley two-story wood-framed homes (Boston) of Shy Brothers Farm. of Greek revival architecture. below where the Santos brother every aspect of operations, feed- And so the journey began!!! 1st Scattered with picturesque farms, could continue to earn a living, ing, and milking cows; learning to off…. in Westport Point, Mas- roadside farmers markets, and they needed help. Somehow Bar- make all three cheeses; and even sachusetts?? Where’s that?? I was fresh fish and lobster mongers, it bara, her husband Leo, and the attending the New England cheese fuelled by the passion to learn is chef heaven! Santos brothers found each other. guild board meeting. I will feel cheese making from one of the With Carl Santos as my men- With Barbara’s background in forever humbled by the passion country’s top artisan producers, I tor, I was gently guided through business and finance, Leo’s love and craftsmanship the Santos didn’t care if it was on the moon, every aspect of the cheese making of food, and the Santos brothers brothers dedicate their lives to. I wanted to go. business for the next three days. desire to keep their farms alive, I’m grateful to say I have found Barbara generously picked me Cloumage, Hannahbells, Moz- they hatched a plan that now a lifetime friend and mentor in up from the airport (Boston), zarella, and all the stories, trivia, produces some of the best cheese Barbara Hanley. which was a heck of a distance and minute details of cheese of its kind in America. The power of friendship and from Westport Point! I was im- making one could ever want or The opportunity to be involved support that LDEI provides for mediately at ease with a warm need to know—a virtual walking in a true farm-to-table successful women in the food community hug and her Southern charm— Wikipedia of cheese. business venture under Barbara’s and its Legacy award is empow- what a doll! With plenty of time Carl didn’t start out as a cheese tutelage has restored my faith ering, I’m very proud to have on the drive to Westport to chat, maker. He and his brothers are that sustainable food production been selected, Thank you, LDEI. we discovered our geographical dairy farmers, and when the price can and does exist. I’m extremely With love and respect, Shelley distance had not stopped us from of milk began to be regulated to honored that I was introduced to Robinson, RSE

CULINARY AWARD WINNER Paige Bloskey Head Chef of Farestart Seattle, Washington Hosted by Susan Ungaro (New York) The James Beard House

One of the most challenging is not just about me; it is about parts of being a chef is finding an FareStart, the organization that I opportunity to stop the fast-mo- work for in Seattle. Our people, tion blur that is life in a kitchen the mission and the commitment and take a moment to reflect to improving people’s lives inspire about why I love what I do so me to want to be better every day. much. The Legacy Award gave me It is a high honor for a chef to the chance to listen, learn, make cook at the James Beard house, new connections, and be inspired. something that many of us dream From left: Shelley Menaged, Special Projects and Student Programs Before I share my journey with about from culinary school on. Manager, The James Beard Foundation; Paige Bloskey; Susan Ungaro, you I would like to give a special Winning the culinary award gave President, James Beard Foundation thanks to Molly Hancock (Seat- me the chance to cook at the The very first evening I spent was the first time in years that I tle) who encouraged me to apply house for an entire week, side in this famous kitchen, I was was in my whites, in a kitchen, for the Legacy Award. Addition- by side with some of the most completely out of my element. It CONTINUED ON PAGE 21 ally, I must say that this award talented people in the industry.

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 19 FARM-TO-TABLE WINNER Vanessa Driscoll Bialobreski Managing Partner, Farm to Table Event and Catering Company Columbia, South Carolina Hosted by Christine Rudalevige (New England) I was at the 2017 Southern Kari Underly (Range®, Inc.) and Foodways Alliance conference in tied together the farm-to-chef rela- Nashville when I first met Sylvia tionship through the eyes of both. Ganier (Nashville) of Green Seeing what it takes to support Door Gourmet. She was my first sustainable protein farms with introduction to LDEI and the a food hub was essential to me education and mentorship that because this is something that is Dames could provide. non-existent and much needed in I found online the Farm to Sea South Carolina. We also visited to Table and Journalism Legacy Topsfield Bakery, Victoria’s Spices, Award sponsored by the New and a beautiful Goat Cheese Farm. We visited Lisa’s farm, several the wine they brought, and the England Chapter and could not I said goodbye to my new friend restaurants including Eventide conversation were such a gift. The believe such a thing existed. I and lovely host at a potluck with (the oldest brewery in Maine), highlight was sitting next to the was amazed from the moment 15 to 20 Dames at a Permaculture and local farm-to-table markets. sweet Pat Brown, former editor of Abigail Carroll’s I received the award to the end farm where the setting, conversa- Next I toured Bon Appetit. of the conference. The 40-plus tion, and food was abundant. Nonesuch Oyster Farm. An After visiting Common Ground Dames I met in New England Next up was Amanda Parks’ impromptu trip included a clam Fair and experiencing Maine’s excelled in providing me a true New England Fishmongers in farm where I learned about the entire farm-to-table talents and mentorship experience. Elliot, Maine. We spent the day green crab invasion. I was able products, saying goodbye to Nancy Matheson Burns of Dole touring her boat and delivering to watch Christine interview and Christine was hard; she had made & Bailey, Inc./Northeast Fam- fresh line-caught fish to local research articles on sustainability me feel so comfortable in her ily Farms took me on a tour of restaurants. I ended my day visit- in their food system. home for many days. It meant so Boston’s foodways from Cultivar ing a produce store and having A highlight of the trip was much for each Dame to take time restaurant to Faneuil Hall, where drinks with everyone. setting up her backyard for the to talk with me, show me what Dole & Bailey, the U.S.’s oldest The rest of my week was a writer’s dinner. I met the most she does, and answer my endless and largest food hub, started. I whirlwind with my host Chris- unique and entertaining women questions. The New England broke down a lamb from Lisa tine Rudalevige, writer and The ever. I have not laughed so hard Chapter will continue to hold a Webster’s beautiful North Star Green Plate cookbook author, in so long. All the food they special place in my heart, and I Sheep Farm with master butcher who was a wealth of knowledge. made, the beer they brewed, thank them for the honor.

FINE BEVERAGE AND HOSPITALITY WINNER Kellie Thorn Beverage Director for Hugh Acheson and Mixologist at Empire State South Atlanta, Georgia Hosted by Araceli Ramos (Mexico) Mundo Cuervo/Jose Cuervo

When I discovered that I had in the subject and enthusiastic won the LDEI Legacy award, I about her home, Mexico, and imagined an opportunity to learn Guadalajara specifically proved more about tequila and the cul- to have a generous spirit. I was ture responsible for producing it. immersed in a story told through In my opinion, storytelling and amazing food, drink, music, and week that followed, I was able to her creativity and ambitions, connections are two significant the unabashed and authentic see how this remarkable woman Mondo Cuervo would not exist. aspects of our industry. Spirits tell hospitality of her people. navigates her world. She travels Araceli is also a philanthropist a story, and as , we get No one personifies the country’s often, so when she is home, she is and is highly involved in her to be the mouthpiece that tells attributes more than Araceli Ra- fielding phone calls, and meet- community. She is also a wife that story and connect our guests mos (Mexico). It was evident al- ings from early in the morning and mother. Araceli manages all to the peoples and traditions of most immediately upon meeting until early in the evening. of this with grace and genuine the product. Araceli at the airport that I was Araceli is part of the reason kindness and respect for every- that Jose Cuervo is the iconic I looked forward to being in the presence of a tour de force. CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE guided by someone well versed In the whirlwind and fruitful brand that it is, and without 20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International we attended an awards ceremony upon my knowledge and Kellie Thorn for the hospitality industry where Paige Bloskey experiences with an open CONTINUED Araceli is one of the judges. She CONTINUED and undistracted mind. also spoke at an American Embassy My host for the week, one she encounters. For some, this event celebrating Mexican Inde- and not in charge. I was Susan Ungaro (New York), may be exhausting to witness, but pendence Week. I loved attending not keeping everyone on President of the James I found it exhilarating. the Guadalajara Symphony because task, reminding them of the Beard Foundation, invited We rode the Jose Cuervo Ex- it was Mexican Independence time, or adjusting the final me mid-week to sit in on a press® from Guadalajara to Tequila Week, and they played music by seasoning, and I was defi- directors meeting. It was in while enjoying cocktails and the Mexican Composers. Afterwards, nitely not telling anyone this meeting that I learned beautiful countryside. At Mondo we attended a dinner and watched to plate a little faster. I was the extent of the founda- Cuervo, we toured the distillery, dancers perform regional dances. wiping plate rims, garnish- tion, the programs they and got an overview of the tequila As I sit here and reflect, it was ing, and helping to clear initiated, and the causes making process. One of the cool- a truly magical day in a week of for the next course; it was they stand behind. Susan est experiences of the Cuervo magical days. unfamiliar territory and is the perfect depiction of Mondo visit was being allowed in Araceli is a true role model. I am I loved it. The following a perceptive and profound the cellars of Jose Cuervo, seeing so lucky to have her as a mentor nights were no different: leader of a dynamic and all of the tequila resting in demi- and a friend. I left Mexico with a sharing the kitchen with influential organization. johns, and tasting some of the better understanding of her people many talented chefs who I feel very lucky to have older stocks, and then being led to and tequila, but I also left inspired were excited to share their been chosen as the recipient a private tequila tasting with one by a successful woman with an food, ideas, and tricks of of this award. I have been of the guides. After the tasting, authentic alegría de vivir. I left the trade. warmly welcomed by the we had lunch and then headed to full of light. I was forever altered The chance to step away members of Les Dames, Solar de la Animas, the hotel at by my trip both personally and from your distractions and each eager to share their Mondo Cuervo, for drinks at the professionally, and I can’t thank take on the role of student own success stories along- beautiful bar. the Les Dames enough for this for a week is an invaluable side their encouragements In addition to the distillery tour, opportunity. lesson. I was able to build for mine.

WINE AWARD WINNER Jenny Dorsey New York City Co-Founder and Executive Chef of Wednesdays, and Chef Consultant in Manhattan New York City Hosted by Amy Hoopes and Carolyn Wente (San Francisco) Wente Family Estates

For a long time, wine intimidat- men and women in eveningwear. ed me. There were always a lot of I officially passed Level 1 of my French words with mysterious ac- course this March cents over vowels, regions I could and began studying for Level 2. never remember and a multitude Industry-wide, Level 2 is known of scents I never smelled in my as the major hurdle; it tests not glass. Even after I become a only theory but service and chef, I barely investigated wine. sommelier-to-diner interaction. • I followed Nicki Wente into wine pairings with Executive I always felt like the imposter, When I saw the opportunity to the fields to sample wine grapes Chef Mike Ward. murmuring “blueberry…?” when live and breathe wine at Wente for Brix count (an indicator of I was also able to try my own called upon and stumbling over Vineyards through the LDEI sugar content); hand at blending a red wine from the color descriptions ruby or Legacy Awards, I knew I had to • Listened in on a supply chain different single varietals and cre- brick-red or purple-magenta. apply immediately. Being im- meeting led by Karl Wente (a ate new pairings with Chardon- Finally this year, I decided to mersed in an environment where complex system that shifts by nay at the Winemaker Studio. confront my fears and dive into I can unveil so much of what I’ve the hour depending on how the It was such an eye-opening the world of wine by beginning learned to what actually happens grapes are ripening in the field); experience to be part of the my Sommelier training with the in one of the nation’s major pro- • Shadowed Winemaker Wente business for a busy week Court of Master . ducers is an opportunity like no Elizabeth Kester through the during harvest season. Wine is Much to my surprise, wine is a other. As much as I had grown to processing plant as (literally) truly unlike any other beverage lot more organized and approach- love wine, it had yet to become tons of Sauvignon Blanc were and the labor of love required to able than I ever realized. Many part of my daily, regular routine. brought onsite; bring it onto our tables regularly industry leaders, Wente included, I hoped Wente would set me on a • Practiced blind tasting with is nothing short of a feat. I’ll be are actively working on making course to change that. Sommelier Jorge Tinoco; continuing my wine education wine a more open, engaging and During my time at Wente Vine- • Worked the gardens with Master with vigor and applying much of inclusive topic—one that doesn’t yards, I was able to see the whole Gardener Diane Dovholuk; and what I learned at Wente to pass- feel like a lair for only elegant 360⁰ of their process. • Progressed through food & ing Level 2!

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 21 CHAPTER NEWS Nina Mukerjee Furstenau (St. Louis) ANN ARBOR | ATLANTA | AUSTIN | BIRMINGHAM | BOSTON | BRITISH COLUMBIA | CHARLESTON | CHARLOTTE & THE WESTERN CAROLINAS CHICAGO | CLEVELAND | COLORADO | DALLAS | GREATER DES MOINES | HAWAII | HOUSTON | KANSAS CITY | KENTUCKY | LONDON LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY | MEXICO | MIAMI | MINNESOTA | MONTEREY BAY | NASHVILLE | NEW ORLEANS | NEW ENGLAND | NEW YORK PALM SPRINGS | PHILADELPHIA | PHOENIX | PORTLAND | SACRAMENTO | SAN ANTONIO | SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO | SEATTLE | SOUTH FLORIDA | ST. LOUIS | WASHINGTON, D.C.

BIRMINGHAMMartha Johnston CHARLESTONSusan Slack In December, “Today” show contributor, caterer, and author of Charleston Dames met at Le Creuset Headquarters for a January What Can I Bring?, Elizabeth Heiskell, joined a group of Birming- business meeting. A program was presented by Liz Ramirez, the ham Dames for an intimate lunch while in town for a book sign- executive director of Earth Heart Growers, a nonprofit organization ing. Pardis Stitt hosted the event at Bottega where Dames tasted designed to create a strong bridge between area schools and local everything from champagne to crab cakes…and totally lost track farms. As part of the chapter’s Green Tables program, the Dames plan of time! Our group gifted our new friend with a Tena Payne bowl to assist the organization with hands-on gardening activities, admin- as a reminder of the event. Dames left the luncheon full of holiday istrative and leadership needs, and a cooking contest for the kids. spirit and cheer! There were also discussions about scholarships and upcoming chapter During November, we joined Beba Touloupis at her restaurant, fundraising activities including a spring Culinary Academy. Sarah Ted’s, for a comfort-food lunch. Members enjoyed sharing profes- Adams suggested the formation of a new Mentorship Committee sional and personal news as well as plans for the coming season. within the group. After the discussion, a vote passed and Dames are The group posed afterwards for a group photo in front of the new planning to meet with area women over coffee and pastries to talk Ted’s mural. about mentoring opportunities. Cinnamon and Gunpowder by Eli Brown is an adventure book (with pirates!) that offered our Book Club an interesting twist on the tale of Scheherazade, the storyteller in One Thousand and One Nights. Gia McCollister hosted the group at her home in late Janu- ary and added her special touches to the buffet featuring foods and spices noted in the book.

BOSTONLucille Govino Our November Chocolate Event was a complete sellout with Julie Burba greeting members with a magnificent reception table complete with charcuterie, cheeses, assorted breads and delectable gougères. As we nibbled and sipped prosecco and rosé, Master Chocolatier Delphin Gomes took us through the process of seed- ing, a tempering method for chocolate. After some instruction, we got down to business and started the rotation of work table to stove L-R: Paige Crone, Nathalie Dupree, Angela Dupree, Susan Wigley, to refrigeration. Within an hour of concentrated work, we were Sarah Adams, Jen Kulick, Lauren Utvich. Photo: Susan Slack able to see progress. Ultimately gorgeous chocolates with painted designs emerged with a big smack of their molds. Voilà, un grand succès! We all left with a box of sweets and a Cambridge School bag CLEVELANDElaine T. Cicora with challenging chocolate recipes. Kudos to Dame Julie for host- More than a dozen Cleveland Dames and their guests (a group of ing this educational and fun event. potential recruits that included a beekeeper, a restaurant owner, a culinary consultant, and a writer with strong links to the food industry) gathered at the Hildebrandt Building, a culinary in- cubator, on November 13, for our bi-monthly business meeting. Afterwards, we enjoyed three fabulous food demos presented by chapter members. Marla Holmes demon- Maria Isabella’s Spiced Hummus with Pre- strated her artisanal served Lemons. bread; Melissa Mc- Clelland showed us how to create her popular mushroom pate; and using a recipe from her recently published cookbook, Chefs & Company, Maria Isabella demo’d a quick and easy recipe for Spiced Hummus with Preserved Lemons. The recipe originated with chef and James Beard Award-winning cookbook author Joanne Weir (San Francisco). Members in attendance also heard from Paula Hershman and Elaine Cicora, who reported on some of the high- lights of the LDEI Newport Beach conference. Gorgeous chocolates emerged at the Boston Dames November Chocolate Event. Master Chocolatier Delphin Gomes at work while Dames look on tolearn his techniques. A sellout crowd tourned out for the Boston Dames November Chocolate Event. Photos: Adrienne Giovino

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International threatening illnesses. This year, Open Arms will deliver 600,000 meals to COLORADO Megan Stromberg neighbors in need, a task that’s accomplished with only a small full-time LDEI Colorado Chapter Holiday Potluck Party staff working with over 6,000 volunteers. It was an awe-inspiring visit At our post-holiday celebration, each Dame contributed one of her unique for our Dames. and favorite dishes. It was a delightful brunch; resolutions were shared as For our mid-December gathering, Minnesota Dames enjoyed an informal well as hopes and dreams for the future. 2018 looks bright for the Colo- get-together at The Lynhall, a market-inspired café, event space, and studio rado Chapter! in Minneapolis. It was a relaxing and fun evening. Cindy Jurgensen gra- ciously invited one of our scholarship recipients, Emily Pollock, giving us all a chance to meet her and learn about her schooling and future plans.

Front Row: Sandra Dugan, Carol Fenster, Sapna Von Reich, Elizabeth Yarnell, Teresa J. Farney, Megan Gray Stromberg. Middle Row: Lee Clayton Roper, Carrie Stebbins, Jane Bauer, Sally Davidson, Marcia Kramer, Jan Findlater, Holly Arnold Kinney, Kelleen Zubick, Carol Maybach, Melissa Severson. Back Row: Beverly Cox Black, Connie Ruel, Marleen Swanson, Nicolle Montgomery, Jordan Blakesley, Shellie Kark.

DALLASLisa Stewart One of our chapter’s favorite ways to give back to the community is volunteering for The Stewpot Ladies Holiday Luncheon. It is an annual event where we cook, feed and serve almost 100 homeless women, provid- ing them a nutritious hot meal, including Mynetta Cockerell’s Cheddar (Left to right): Minnesota Program Co-Chairs Nikki Erpelding and Betsy Biscuits and sparkling grape juice in champagne flutes. It was an honor to Nelson, at the Minnesota Dames November meeting. Photo: Robin Asbell. make these women feel special and appreciated. Photo 1 (Left to right): Janice Cole, prospective Minnesota member An- At our December Board Meeting, we held our first (and it won’t be our nette Maggi, Audrey Nelson and Amy Brown enjoyed the tour and food at Open Arms. Photo: Joan Donatelle. (Left to right): Robin Asbell, Kim Ode, last!) Holiday Cocktail Competition. Jennifer Brightman won the contest Mary Evans, scholarship recipient Emily Pollock, Cindy Jurgensen, Merrilyn with her drink, “The Spicy Dame.” The award-winning vodka used in the Tauscher and Barb Strand. Photo: Joan Donatelle drink was donated by Julia Fuqua and her Duckworth Distillery, and will be served at our annual holiday party. The recipe will be available on our chapter website www.ldedallas.org. MONTEREY BAY Carol Hilburn As we departed 2017, we continued to plan for our biggest scholarship We were proud to host an induction ceremony for new Dames and for fundraising event, A Super-Dame Good Party, which will be held on the new Disciples of Escoffier on October 10, 2017. The event was held at evening of March 4th. Quail Lodge Golf Club, Carmel Valley, and the over 100 guests enjoyed a reception and four-course dinner paired with wines—including Archery Summit, Chappellet, CimaCollina, and Scheid—supplied by Dames from the Monterey Bay Chapter. The new Dames welcomed into the chapter are Marleen Burch, Loree Dowse, Rachel Gaffney, Lee Logan, Lura Migdal, Anita Cook Motard, Karen Ann Murray, Aimee Padden, Cheryl Pogue, Judie Profeta, and Tanja Roos. The silent and live auc- tions raised funds for scholarships and for the chapter’s annual donation to the Escoffier Museum and the Brock Circle. On Saturday, December 9th, Rachel Mueller opened her charming home, high up on the Big Sur coast, to host Dames for a Christmas Silver Tea. The weather was extraordinarily beautiful as were the views of the coastline and the elegant buffet and tea service prepared for the enjoyment Dallas Stewpot Ladies Holiday Luncheon volunteers, back row left to right: of the attendees. Happy New Year to all from beautiful Monterey Bay! Jennifer Uygur, Suzanne Felber, Joanne Self, Julia Fuqua, Lori Finelman, Lynn Mattie, Joanne Bondy, Mynetta Cockerell. Front row left to right: Karen Cassady, Robin Plotkin, Lisa Moore, Laurie Bostic, Louise Owens, NEW YORKBeth Allen Roberta Villaverde, Meghan Meehan, Dedie Leahy, Liz Baron. This year, the New York Chapter Annual Holiday Party was held in the gorgeous, contemporary Jenn-Air showroom space, located in midtown Manhattan. Dames were asked to bring a special dish, creating a deli- GREATER DES MOINESKaren Davis cious banquet of savory and sweet nibbles. And of course, it wouldn’t be The Greater Des Moines Chapter held a program on social media on a holiday party without Beth Allen’s celebratory holiday ham! We toasted February 5 at the Riverwalk Hub. Mike Draper, founder and owner of the occasion with Champagne Laurent-Perrier, Champagne Boizel, La Raygun, an innovative printing, design and clothing company in down- Caravelle Champagne, Champagne Henriot and Alto Adige Wines of town Des Moines, discussed internal strategies used at his company for the Italian Alps, plus a lovely cranberry cocktail made with Elit Vodka. social media and what has worked best for them. Kudos to the Holiday Party Committee, co-chaired by Michele Scicolone and Eleanor Sigona; to Jenn-Air for graciously hosting us; to NYC Tech MINNESOTA Janice Cole students for superbly serving and pouring; and to Suzen O’Rourke for Betsy Nelson arranged a tour for Minnesota Dames at Open Arms of ensuring all surplus food was donated to The Bowery Mission afterwards. Minnesota in November. This amazing nonprofit organization cooks de- Congratulations to LDNY for a fabulous year! We met on November licious nourishing foods that are delivered free to people living with life- 14th for our 2017 Annual Business Meeting at The Fales Library & SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 23 Special Collections at New York University, where our Chapter’s archives are housed. The opening reception, produced by the 2017 Annual Meet- PHILADELPHIAJacquie Kelly ing Committee chaired by Beth Allen, set the celebratory mood. Chapter Philadelphia was excited to be one of the stops on the Cherry Bombe President Joan Brower opened the business meeting, congratulating com- Cookbook Tour on November 14th. Natanya DiBona, Lynn Buono, Ma- mittee heads and officers for their excellent performances during 2017 and rie Stecher and Zoë Lukas participated in the event at Barbuzzo Upstairs committee reports followed. Our special, sincere thanks go to: Fales Director that welcomed Cherry Bombe founders Kerry Diamond and Claudia Wu Marvin J. Taylor for hosting; Ursula Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards for and brought together some of the superb wines; and to Megan Neisser of Whole Foods for the beautiful the city’s incredible women in platters of delicious classic cheeses and signature charcuterie. The evening food. made us all very proud to be Dames! The Chapter kicked off the holiday shopping season with a Women Who Write Cookbook NORTH CAROLINASusi Gott Séguret event at Mariella Esposito’s North Carolina Dames gathered in the mountainous city of Asheville for Fante’s Kitchen Shop, located in their November meeting, stepping outside the boundaries of work to celebrate the historic Philadelphia Italian around the table and explore Asheville’s culinary treasures while together. Market. The event featured Katie Button welcomed the members in her tasteful meeting room at Curate, seven of our city’s accomplished and later that evening regaled them with delights at her second ultra-elegant cookbook authors: Tenaya Dar- Beth Frith restaurant, Night Bell. brought along a basket of heirloom apples lington, Amanda Feifer, Aliza from a local producer, and shared them with all before parting. Green, Joy Manning, Marisa Some of the delights enjoyed via Chef Button’s hand were roasted beets McClellan, Jessica Nolen, and with whipped bone marrow, smoked pecans and fennel flowers, sautéed Holly Ricciardi. Attendees met Olivette Farm spring greens with lardons, pickled Vidalia onion, poached the authors, purchased cook- egg and cornbread crumble, and house made French fries with rocket sauce. Women Who Write, left to right: Dames books, and enjoyed samples and Marisa McClellan and Joy Manning demonstrations. In addition to our annual holiday cocktail party, generously hosted by Sofitel Philadelphia this year, we also held our Annual Winter Potluck dinner just a few weeks later at Yolanta Roman’s 19th century Victorian gothic Silverstone Bed &Breakfast. In keeping with the location, the theme for the afternoon was an afternoon tea. Marie Fritz gave an informal lesson on the tradition of tea service and the art of the table. Dames also organized a Sustainable Seafood Workshop presented by Samuels & Son Seafood. The interactive workshop was led by Joe Laspro- gata, marine biologist and vice president of Samuels & Son, and Executive Chef Anne Coll. It included a tour the facility and a light lunch featuring An Asheville Welcome. Back Row: Stephanie Tyson, Beth Frith, Ellen sustainable products seen on our tour. Clevenger-Firley, Susan Wyler, Cindy Day McGann, Leah McGrath, Sharon Van Vechten, Elizabeth Wiegand, Katie Button, Susi GottSéguret SAN ANTONIO Blanca Aldaco Front Row: Margaret Norfleet-Neff, Spring Council, Vivian Joiner, Ginnie- The San Antonio Chapter was honored to host LDEI Founder Carol Barringer, and Colleen Minton. Photos: SG Séguret Brock for a fun 48 hours December 10-12. The main focus for Carol’s visit was to witness the 8th annual filet mignon dinner, gingerbread house PALM SPRINGS Pam Bieri decorating, and gift giving for 18 at-risk children ranging in age from 10 to 18 years old. The weather was perfect. Within 30 minutes of leaving the airport, Carol enjoyed a churro, a chicharron gordita, and a tamal in San Antonio’s Historic Market Square. Later that evening, Carol cruised the famous Riverwalk on a private barge with several other Dames on board. Monday morning, a private tour was arranged by Di-Anna Arias. The Texas flag in front of The Alamo was flown for the day in Carol’s honor and later presented to her as a souvenir. The finale was a well attended luncheon to celebrate Carol’s birthday.

Dame Nancy Cohee talked with guests about dates, citrus and grapes, the three major crops grown in the Coachella Valley, at the Palm Springs LDEI Farm Tour in November. The annual Farm Tour benefits the Chapter’s Green Tables initiatives. In other news, the Chapter also enjoyed a festive holiday party at Bernie’s in Rancho Mirage and held a Workforce Develop- ment luncheon and conference for the county’s hospitality industry. Photo: Pam Bieri San Antonio Dames at their 8th annual filet mignon dinner, left to right Di- Anna Arias, Maureen Weissman, Marilyn Magaro, Miss Bernal, Lila Bernal, Nancy Fitch, Tracey Maurer, Mary Martini, Diana Barrios Trevino, Leslie Komet-Ausburn, Kim Mauldin; kneeling, left to right, Jennifer Vitera, Kay Shumake, Carol Brock, Blanca Aldaco, Dion Turner

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International SAN FRANCISCO Kimberly Noelle Charles New members inducted in September were: Dominica Rice-Cisneros, chef/ owner, Cosecha Café; Bonnie Demergasso, farmer, Demergasso Ranches; Jourdan Abel, program director, Jewish Community Center-SF; Jennifer Sherman, general manager, Chez Panisse; Dianne Jacob, author; and Lisa Allen, Young’s Market, who was welcomed as a transfer from the Atlanta Chapter. New member Dominica Rice Cisneros and Chef Tanya Holland spoke about diversity in the culinary profession at Cherry Bombe’s Jubilee, our San Francisco fall conference in September. Other speakers included Alice Waters who spoke about food’s role in shaping our future cultural foundation. Dames, take note if you are visiting the Bay area! Our newly inducted member, Jennifer Sherman, is both general manager at Chez Panisse as well as Chef on Monday and Tuesday evenings. On November 1, Linda Carucci organized and moderated a panel of professionals for culinary students in the hospitality careers class at Laney College in Oakland. The focus of this inaugural session was Beyond Brick and Mortar: Culinary Careers Outside the Restaurant Industry. Panelists included Arnell Hinckley of CANFIT in Berkeley; Daniel Azarkman of Instrucktional in San Francisco; and Reign Free, founder/owner of Red Door Catering in Oakland. Linda welcomes involvement from other LDEI members.

SAN DIEGO Kari Volyn We held our annual holiday party on December 13 at the Art Institute of San Diego. The Dames and guests enjoyed a selection of wine and appetizers Amy Emberling at Zingerman’s Bakehouse and a pastry demonstration by a recipient of a 2017 Les Dames d’Escoffier culinary scholarship. There was a white elephant gift exchange. In the spirit of LDEI’s Global Culinary Initiative, the San Diego Dames Amy Emberling experienced the cultural delights of Persian cuisine at Soltan Banoo (soltan meaning king or ruler, banoo meaning lady) in University Heights on Janu- ary 23. Chef Mahin and her two daughters invited us to gather, see, and Scholarship Success Story: taste Iran and their creative and eclectic home cooking! Chef Mahin and her daughters shared secrets of this exotic culture and cuisine and Dames learned Boston to Ann Arbor about the spices and herbs, ingredients and techniques that make it unique. On February 20, the San Diego Dames gathered at Kari Volyn’s La Jolla By Sandra Lach Arlinghaus home for a Member Spotlight, appetizer potluck, and cookbook exchange. (Ann Arbor) LDEI’s investment in Amy Emberling (Ann Arbor) has been returned to the culinary community in manifold ways. Amy holds a B.A. from Harvard College and an M.B.A. from Columbia University, but it was a $10,000 fellowship from the Boston Chapter in 1991 that ™ enabled her to go to Paris, France, to study culinary arts at L’Ecole de Gastronomie Française, Ritz Hotel. This launched her on a spectacular culinary career. Now Amy is a star baker and long-time managing partner of Zingerman’s Bakehouse. She expresses her appreciation to Les Dames and, especially, to her local Ann Arbor Chapter in countless ways. With her support, Zingerman’s Bakehouse became a “Friend Sponsor” of LDEI. She has donated considerable resources to the initiation and development of our local chapter’s scholar- ship fund. Indeed, it was Amy’s Bakehouse scholarship donation that sponsored our University of Michigan Nutrition Masters degree candidates’ attendance at our chapter’s Downton Abbey fundraiser held at our chap- ter’s home, the City Club of Ann Arbor, in December. Amy is also a co-author. She and Frank Carollo, a man- See What’s Possible with Roland Foods aging partner at Zingerman’s, share famous recipes, in- x Design new menus or recipes sights into the Zingerman’s culture, and business advice in their recent book, Zingerman’s Bakehouse Cookbook, x Source new ingredients or products named by The New York Times as among the best baking cookbooks of 2017. The Boston Chapter’s investment in Amy has been returned to the culinary community many x Fulfill with efficient, quality-controlled supply times over. She’s a constant source of inspiration!

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SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 25 MEMBER MILESTONES Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia)

ATLANTA BRITISH COLUMBIA Marsha Palanci, who successfully ran Holly Beach an- Leeann Froese, owner of Town Hall Cornerstone Communications for 25 nounced that in 2017, Brands in Vancouver, has been named by years, has switched gears to become a she received an MBA The Organization of wine marketing consultant and blog- degree from Washing- American Women in ger. Her new blog, ton State University Public Relations as www.tartetatintales. with a specialty in one of ten women in com, shares random hospitality. the field who leads, musings on life, cur- Jennifer Hill Holly Beach inspires, and builds rent affairs, culture, Booker cooked successful brands. She fashion and naturally, her French-inspired has been creating and food, and wine, her Southern cuisine promoting brands two areas of expertise. for 21 years. Photo: Leann Froese Photo: Joan Ross during her Cast Iron Marsha Palanci Chronicles dinner Hannes van der Merwe Mary Rodgers was at The James Beard Eagranie Yuh is proud that her story inducted into the Di- House. Jennifer is a about Tayybeh, a pop-up restaurant and rect Marketing News culinary explorer for catering company run by Syrian refugees, Hall of Femme, an the Georgia Depart- Jennifer Hill Booker was published in Saveur (www.saveur. annual program rec- ment of Tourism and com/tayybeh-vancouver-immigrant- ognizing the best and Travel and sits on both the James Beard dinner-series). She also shared Vancouver brightest female talent Foundation Food Waste Advisory Council dining picks in the December 17, 2017, in the marketing and the 2018 No Kid Hungry Atlanta So- Food section of The industry. She further Mary Rodgers ciety Board. www.chefjenniferhillbooker. Washington Post. expanded the scope com. Photo: Shelby Light of her marketing expertise by earning a NEW ENGLAND digital marketing certification from The BIRMINGHAM Denise Landis re- Wharton School and certification from Brooke Bell has been promoted to Vice launched The Cook’s the Google-Columbia CMO Academy. President Culinary & Custom Content Cook as a multimedia Stefanie Sacks at Hoffman Media. www.hoffmanmedia. company serving the , MS, CNS, CDN, is a com community of cooks, culinary nutritionist, author, consultant, and founder of REBOOT FOOD™. She Ashley McMakin, owner/operator of food writers and Denise Landis recipe testers. The transforms the way people eat through Ashley Mac’s, opened a new location in hands on culinary experiences and is the Homewood’s SOHO Square in Febru- re-launch includes a revamped website, recipe archives, Community Forum, and a author of What The Fork Are You Eating? ary 2018. This is the fourth Ashley Mac’s An Action Plan for Your Pantry and Plate. location.www.ashleymacs.com TV show titled, “Outside & In with The Cook’s Cook.” Photo: Eva Baughman NORTH CAROLINA Jan Walsh’s BirminghamRestaurants.com Barbara Lauterbach Susan Dosier has been named an Amazon Influencer attended a food of DK Communications by Amazon.com. This writers’ workshop in December held in Group in Charlotte announced a new new program recog- Chinon France, under the leadership client: Randolph County N.C. Tourism Domenica Marchetti nizes businesses that of (Washington, Development Association. The county is have large social media D.C.). “We learned how food journalism home to the “Handmade Pottery Capital followings on Insta- is different from straight journalism and of the USA” in Seagrove, North Carolina, gram and/or Twitter were given writing assignments which where more than 100 individual potters and has a new page of involved going to the markets, vineyards, work and sell their pottery which includes food product recom- and restaurants. food and -safe cookware. mendations for home Keia Mastrianni Jan Walsh NEW YORK cooks. Julie Hartigan of CookingwJulie.com was named one of worked with Weight Watchers to launch 30 Women Moving BOSTON Southern Food For- Maria Speck, award- their new Wellness Cruises and received rave reviews for the 100 recipes she ward, a list published winning cookbook online by Southern Liv- author, contributed developed, which were served to 1000s of passengers. In addition, she taught chefs ing Magazine. She was to the book Modern- also recognized for her ist Bread. Her recent how to prepare the items, and did cook- ing demos for over 200 people at a time. work as deputy editor Keia Mastrianni media appearances of “Crop Stories: A included interviews Maria Speck Karen Page published her 11th book Journal Exploring Farm Culture in the for Heritage Radio’s Kitchen Creativity: Unlocking Culinary American South,” which focuses on telling Modernist Bread Crumbs; a panel on Genius--with Wisdom, Inspiration, and real stories about the agricultural South. New England grains and fresh milling at Ideas from the World’s Most Creative Chefs Nancie McDermott Boston’s Let’s Talk about Food festival; (Little, Brown; October 2017). It was ’s recipe story, “Lost and a reading from her book Simply An- named one of the best cookbooks of 2017 Pies of the South,” made the cover of cient Grains at the Boston Book Festival. by leading media including Forbes and The Southern Living magazine’s November is- Washington Post. sue. A fall book tour for her book, Fruit: a

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Savor the South® cookbook, Carolyn Kumpe was in the Pike Place Market Atrium and hosted took her to New York, contracted as a food con- by The American Brewing History Initiative Chicago, Miami, and sultant/recipe developer of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Los Angeles, where she for the Vacaville Unified American History in conjunction with the cooked persimmon pie on School District Nutrition Brewers Association. Hallmark TV’s Home & Program in Northern Cali- Kari Leitch, Vice President of Communica- Family show. http://nan- fornia by Director Juan tions and Corporate Affairs for Ste. Michelle ciemcdermott.com Cordon to revamp their Wine Estates, was project manager on their Carolyn Kumpe Susi Gott Séguret, CCP, Nancie McDermott school lunch program. A $7 million retail, kitchen, and event facility CSW, has launched a new key objective was to focus renovation, which coincided with the 50th series of monthly forag- on farmer direct ingredients from Commu- anniversary of the company. www.smwe.com nity Alliance with Family Farmers (CAFF) to ing/cooking/dining events Jamie Peha, founder and principal of Peha called the Appalachian create nutritious and delicious school lunches. www.vacavilleusd.org/childnutrition Promotions, was named Director of the Culinary Experience. Auction of Washington Wines Private Barrel These are designed as a SAN DIEGO Auction. This exclusive trade tasting and live complement to the week- Jodi Abel, owner of auction of one-of-a-kind, limited production long sessions of her Sea- Lajollacooks4u, a team futures from Washington’s most noted wine- Susi Gott Séguret sonal School of Culinary building and cooking- makers takes place every August. Arts and will artfully events company, cel- weave music and stories into the fabric of the ebrated 10 years in SOUTH FLORIDA evening. www.schoolofculinaryarts.org business. The company Irene Moore was selected Stephanie Tyson and her partner Vivian has hosted guests from by the Region of South Jodi Abel Joiner celebrate 15 years in business for their all over the world. Abel Aegean as the United restaurant “Sweet Potatoes (well shut my also published her cookbook, Lajollacooks4u: States coordinator for mouth!!) - a restaurant.” Through the success California Cuisine, an accumulation of favor- “Tasting the Treasures of of their restaurant, they have been a noted ite client-requested recipes. the Aegean,” a promo- part of the growth of downtown Winston- tional lunch and dinner Salem, North Carolina. SAN FRANCISCO held on March 13 at Irene Moore Dianne Jacob an- the James Beard House PHILADELPHIA nounced that she will be which recognized the Rita Cinelli assumed the role of development co-teaching a food and Region of South Aegean officer for Camden City Garden Club, an edu- wine writing workshop as the “European Region cational and environmental organization estab- in Verona, Italy, in April. of Gastronomy 2019.” lished in 1985 to assist Camden, New Jersey, The workshop combines Robyn Webb, CITM, residents. Programs of this non-profit include writing and instruction MS, cookbook author, Dianne Jacob Community Gardening and Greening, Grow with luxury accommoda- nutritionist, and culinary Lab and Nutrition Education, Community tions and local winery instructor, launched Robyn Webb Youth Employment, and Camden Children’s and restaurant visits. https://demetguzey. “Paris Your Way, Sig- Garden.www.camdencommunitygarden.org com/2017/11/21/food-and-wine-writing- nature Arrangements by Robyn Webb.” Her workshop/. PORTLAND new boutique agency designs customized Ivy Manning announced SEATTLE journeys to Paris and other locales within the publication of her Maria Coassin, owner of France, with culinary artisans, top-notch seventh cookbook, Italian Gelatiamo, gelateria and guides, and access to open doors not usually Instant Pot (Houghton bakery in Seattle, makes open to the public. www.Parisyourway.net Mifflin Harcourt). The 1,200 panettone every WASHINGTON, D.C. book includes 100 recipes holiday season. This year Patrice Dionot and her husband, Francois, for regional Italian special- food writer, Ron Holden have closed their 41-year-old Maryland-based ties, family favorites, easy Ivy Manning wrote about her Italian Maria Coassin L’Academie de Cuisine, considered one of one-pot pasta meals, and roots in an article about the top cooking schools in America, ending desserts to make the most the confection for Forbes. It had international its history of supplying chefs to the D.C. of this all-in-one appli- reach for “the Queen of Panettone,” as she restaurant community and beyond. The last ance. Photo: Dina Avila was dubbed. graduation ceremony was held in December. Renee Erickson SACRAMENTO , renowned James Beard Paula Shoyer just published her new book, Mary Kimball welcomed Award winner, will open a bar and Italian res- The Healthy Jewish Kitchen: Fresh, Contem- 2018 aboard the Scotts taurant in 2018 in the new Amazon Spheres porary Recipes for Every Occasion (Sterling Miracle-Gro float in complex in north near the Epicure, 2017). It offers recipes for more the 129th Rose Parade Mary Kimball Bell Town neighborhood. She was influenced healthful Jewish classics that are also updated whose theme was “Making a Difference.” Her by the time she spent in Italy while a college for the modern table, along with international nonprofit, Center for Land-Based Learning, student. and American recipes that reflect food trends helps farmers and businesses get started in the Rose Ann Finkel and husband, Charles, beyond the Jewish culinary world. Her book agricultural industry and provides fresh prod- Founders of Pike Brewing Co., were panel was featured in The Washington Post’s January ucts to the community via such programs as members discussing Pike Place Market and 2 Food section, and that article was picked up the West Sacramento Urban Farms. Settle’s craft brewing history, which was held in papers across the U.S.

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 27 Brock Circle Goal is $1 Million

By Stacy Zeigler, LDEI donations collected each year, can be Immediate Past President used the following year. Currently with the approval of the Thanks to the stock donation plan super majority of the LDEI Board, and a year-end giving request, we have earmarked funds for we added three new mem- cle the revision of our LDEI bers to the Brock Circle Cir ck Membership Brochure in December: Barbara o r as well as funding for a Hanley, Tina Krinsky, B breakout session at our and Sharon Olson. L Seattle Conference on This brings our total to D EI Collaborate Communica- 51 members who have tions by Anne Smoke, back pledged $510,000 to date. by popular demand. We have The purpose of the Brock Circle also started vetting an idea for a is to ensure the fiscal health of the virtual leadership program. You’ll be MAK E organization—both now and going hearing more about this idea. DINNE R forward—for strategic needs and Our Brock Circle goal is 100 mem- to enable conference enhancement, SOMETH I N G bers, pledging $1000 a year for 10 all aligned with the mission of years, which will total $1,000,000. MEMOR A B L E . LDEI. Our Brock Circle Oversight Please let me know if you would like Committee is hard at work to build to be our 52nd member! My email is membership as well as put these [email protected]. funds to good use. Up to 40% of the

If you got into the member area, click on “Documents.” Here’s a sampling of what you can download.

LDEI Logos and Program Logos (Green Tables, GCI, award logos) Chapter Presidents Resources WHAT DOCUMENTS • 2018 Chapter Presidents Calendar CAN YOU FIND ON • New Member Form (fillable) THE LDEI WEBSITE? • LDEI History PowerPoint • Insurance Program Services Looking for something? May- • Cohesive LDEI Membership Criteria: be a new member form, an • LDEI Bylaws LDEI logo, or the LDEI bylaws? It’s amazing what you can find • LDEI Business Cards (template) at www.ldei.org. Photo Release Form First, click on Member Login Membership Directory on the blue ribbon at the top • 2018 LDEI printable directory.pdf of the home page. Then log Made in Ireland • Mobile directory message for new in as a member with your members Username (your email address) with milk from grass-fed cows, and Password (only you know 2017 Annual Conference - List of Attendees it’s a taste that says this) and click on Login. If you are having difficulty with the a thousand words. system, just send an email to Keep browsing around to find other [email protected]. treasures.—CiCi Williamson

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

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SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 29 Seattle Malaysian Dinner woven baskets, and bowls of vari- By Karen Binder ous spices and aromatic leaves. We were The Seattle Chapter of LDEI held a treated to a five-course dinner consisting Malaysian Global Culinary Initiative event of Penang Pork Satay, curried puffs with with great success. The featured chef was sweet potatoes and peas, Portuguese Christina Arokiasamy— Debal Prawns, mango salad with cashews, cookbook author, teach- and wild cod in candlenut, makrut lime ing chef, and Malaysia’s and coconut sambal. The sweet ending GLOBAL first official food ambassa- was Chef Christina’s special caramel dor to the U.S.—aided by sauce on ice cream. Christina’s newly re- CULINARY Kimberly Smith, Pastry Global Culinary leased cookbook, The Malaysian Kitchen, postcard Chef Teacher Instructor Initiative was for sale. Amanda Breville of World at South Seattle College, Spice donated to each guest a package Culinary Arts Program. Christina, whose of four spices most used in Malaysian mother was a spice merchant, gave a talk cuisine: cinnamon, allspice, cardamom, on Malaysian cuisine and spices. Her main and cloves. Karen Binder, chair of the point about Malaysian cuisine is that there GCI committee, paired the meal with is, in fact, NO specific Malaysian cuisine; Northwest Wine Academy Muller it is a aggregation of Portuguese, Chinese, Thurgau and Rosé. Japanese, Vietnamese, etc. Decorations included Malaysian batik tablecloths,

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30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International SUBMISSION GUIDELINES DEADLINES SUMMER ISSUE – APRIL 10, 2018 | FALL ISSUE – AUGUST 1, 2018 WINTER ISSUE – NOVEMBER 10, 2018

MEMBER MILESTONES membermilestones@aol. com Email to Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski by the deadline listed above. Include: • CHAPTER • DAME’S NAME • Maximum 50 words for each Dame about personal honors or accomplish- ments, but not about new product introductions or other promotions. Please include a website URL, if applicable. Press releases and cookbook covers are NOT accepted. PHOTO: You may email a high resolution quality headshot to accompany your news (see below). You must submit a photo permissions form for the photo. Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be pub- lished per Dame per year.

CHAPTER PROGRAMS [email protected] Email up to 250 words about chapter events that have already occurred to Chapter News Editor, Nina Mukerjee Furstenau by the deadline listed above. Include: • CHAPTER • SUBMITTER’S NAME • Maximum 250 words for each chapter. • Captions for all photos submitted. Submissions that exceed 250 words will be edited to comply. Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don’t have space to print full the Control ° Freak™ menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Note: “Chapter Programs” and “Member Milestones” may be dispersed Temperature controlled through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. induction cooking system PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES • Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). • Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet requirements. • Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. First of its kind to accurately • Include photo credits, if required. • A photo permissions form must be submitted. measure, set, and hold • A maximum of three photos can be submitted per chapter. cooking temperatures with • ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY CAPTIONS OR THEY WILL NOT BE PUBLISHED. through-the-glass sensor technology LDEI regrets that we cannot include lengthy profiles of individual Dames due to space limitations. Dames’ accomplishments should be submitted to “Mem- and Probe Control™ ber Milestones” or to LDEI’s Closed Group on Facebook at https://www. facebook.com/groups/218435184886471/

E-NEWS (Not for the Quarterly) This bimonthly email newsletter reports upcoming events in other chapters. Include title, date, time, cost, a one-sentence description, and an email contact for your chapter’s events. Send E-News to the editor: Diane Wheeler, at [email protected] or [email protected]. brevilleusa.com polyscienceculinary.com UPCOMING in the summer issue #tempcontrolfreak • Dames with Brilliant Second Careers • Flavors of Mexico - Yucatan

SPRING QUARTERLY 2018 31 PRESORTED Ann Arbor Mexico FIRST CLASS Atlanta Miami U S POSTAGE Austin Minnesota PAID Birmingham Monterey Bay LOUISVILLE KY Boston Nashville P.O. Box 4961 PERMIT #1051 British Columbia New Orleans Louisville, KY 40204 Charleston New England Charlotte & the New York Western Carolinas North Carolina Chicago Palm Springs Cleveland Philadelphia Colorado Phoenix Dallas Portland Greater Des Moines Sacramento Hawaii San Antonio Houston San Diego Kansas City San Francisco Kentucky Seattle London South Florida Los Angeles/ St. Louis Orange County Washington, D.C.

• Hokkaido Island—Japan’s northern- GLOBAL most island is known for fresh sea- CULINARY LDEI Atlanta: An Evening in Japan food harvested in its crisp northern diversity provides a variety of regional seas. Ishikari nabé is a popular hot postcard By Suzanne Brown delicacies that have evolved from the pot dish with salmon chunks, veg- (Atlanta) country’s islands. Trademark special- etables, tofu, and konnyaku (devil’s ties are based on each island’s ecology: “Though you wipe your hands and tongue jelly). Genghis Khan, a bar- • Honshu Island—Japan’s largest brush off the dust and dirt from the ves- bequed lamb dish, is also a favorite. island is known for Sasa Kamaboko sels, what is the use of all this fuss if the While Dames enjoyed dishes (fish cake shaped like bamboo grass) heart is still impure?” Sen no Rikyū, especially prepared by the chefs, a in the Tōhoku region; uniquely pre- 16th Century Tea Master. PowerPoint presentation on Japan’s pared tofu in Kansai; and fukagawa culture, food, and traditions was Atlanta Dames were meshi—a rice bowl with clams, leeks, presented by Tomoko Ohyama, who transported to Japan and miso—in the Kanto region. is Consul for Cultural and Informa- while experienc- • Shikoku Island—The proximity of tion Affairs at the Atlanta Japanese ing the tastes of the Japan’s smallest island to the North- Consulate. Colorful slides depicted indigenous cuisine Global Culinary ern Pacific Ocean makes it an ideal Initiative festivals, foods, and several kinds and culture presented location for bonito; the Kagawa of saké, among information on the by Chef Fuyuhiko Ito region is famous for wheat flour Japanese Tea Ceremony. and his wife, Chef Lisa Ito, owners of noodles called sanuki udon. Throughout the evening, Dames- the exclusive Umi Modern Japa- • Kyushu Island—Specialties vary on experienced the custom of Omo nese Restaurant in chic Buckhead. this southernmost island. Mizutaki tenashi, or Japanese hospitality. The program was held in the Him- is chicken hot pot, popular in Fu- True Omotenashi, a concept de- itsu Japanese Lounge located above kuoka. Another favorite is hiyajiru, rived from Chanoyu, the ancient, Umi. Whether fate or kismet, Chef made by pouring chilled fish-and- traditional tea ceremony, can Fuyuhiko and Chef Lisa are from miso-based soup over hot rice. Mi- never be attained with a train- Atlanta Dames at Tokyo, but never met until both were yazaki mango and the yellow citrus ing manual. It is a one-to-one Himitsu Lounge. working for a restaurant in Buckhead. fruit hyuganatsu are also specialties. relationship that changes from (L) Chef Kiyoka Ni- They decided to marry and merge • Okinawa Island—Located between customer-to-customer…from shikawa, the official their two families, settling in Roswell Japan’s main islands and Taiwan, moment-to-moment. Gratitude chef of the Japanese with their six children. people of this region enjoy the great- Consulate Atlanta, towards the customer is a key and Dame-Chef Lisa Japan’s diverse landscape stretches est longevity in the world. They are part of Omotenashi, the part Ito. (L-R): Suzanne from the tropical southern island of among the least likely to suffer from that warms the encounter and Brown, Executive Kyushu to the wintery highlands of chronic diseases of aging; the secret… makes the host smile. Chef Fuyuhiko Ito, northern Hokkaido, in which Pacific goya—a bitter melon, stir-fried with and Laureen Herzig climates meet Siberian winds. This egg, tofu, vegetables, and pork.