Asia and the Pacific Exploring Destinations In

GET LOST

EXPLORING DESTINATIONS IN

ASIA AND THE PACIFIC

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JULY 2019 that's shenzhen

that’s PRD 《城市漫步》珠江三角洲英文月刊

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Editor-in-Chief Matthew Bossons 马特 Guangzhou Editor Ryan Gandolfo 甘德发 Shenzhen Editor Phoebe Kut 吉蓁蓁 Senior Staff Writer Tristin Zhang 张岳烽 National Arts Editor Bryan Grogan Contributors Wang Xuefeng, Lindsey Fine, Edoardo Donati Fogliazza, Mia Li, Barnaby Lofton, Naomi Lounsbury, Bob Palmer, Lindsey Fine, Valerie Osipov

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2 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Editor’s Note JULY 2019

For this issue, we’ve gone ‘full travel.’ And you know what they say about going full travel: You’ll never go back!

That’s right, once the travel bug bites you, you’ll find that all your spare cash and time becomes earmarked for adventure in exotic destinations. It happened to me, so I’m saying this from experience.

To celebrate the diverse array of destinations that are conveniently located in our own backyard, we’ve spoken with a panel of China-based travel experts to assemble this month’s cover story: Our 2019 ‘Dream Destinations

Guide’ for the Asia-Pacific region. On pages 38-47, you’ll find a selection of fascinating spots from the Middle East to the South Pacific and everywhere in between.

In our City section this month, we share with you the winners from our third annual That’s PRD Writing

Contest, which concluded with a well-attended reading event last month at the Conrad Guangzhou. While we only had enough space to include our top four submissions, I want to personally thank everyone that participated and

I hope to see you again next year!

The rest of this issue is an eclectic blend of editorial goodness that I just know you’re going to love. There’s a spread on the season’s hottest must-have item (beach towels, obviously) on pages 20-21, an interview with the South China-based founder of a skateboard lifestyle company on page 17 and a quick review of three new homegrown albums to check out on page 32.

I’ll close this off by reminding all our China-travel-loving readers that the third edition of our Explore China travel guide is set to launch next month. You can preorder your copy by visiting thmart.com.cn.

Ciao!

Matthew Bossons Editor-in-Chief

Hourly updates on news, FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA current affairs and general facebook.com/ThatsGuangzhou youtube.com/thatsonline weirdness from around the PRD and China. twitter.com/ThatsGuangzhou #THATSGUANGZHOU

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 3 6 CITY 38 COVER STORY GET LOST 7 MOBILE MADNESS Exploring Destinations in Asia and the Pacific. Five depressing stats about Chinese mobile phone users. 10 WINNING WORDS The winning prose from our 2019 That’s PRD Writing Contest.

16 LIFE & STYLE 58 EVENTS 17 JASON GUADALAJARA GZ Founder of concrete visionary distribution.

22 MODULAR MAGIC Designing a honeycomb- inspired hotel in Sichuan. JUL 6 Cheer Chen

GZ 24 ARTS

28 HERE COMES A NEW CHALLENGER American Football and Chinese Football on their legacies and influences. JUL 30-31 The Grand Mansion Gate 34 THE RACE FOR SPACE Is China’s sci-fi cinema HK movement ready to blast- off?

JUL 4, 11, 18, 25 48 EAT & Lan Kwai Fong Bar Crawl

DRINK MU 52 BATTLE OF THE BURRITOS The inside scoop on the PRD’s big, bad burritos.

57 VEGAN TOFU BANH MI SANDWICH ONGOING A Vietnamese classic with a Legend Heroes Park plant-based twist. THE WRAP

4 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

Winning Words The Winning Prose from Our 2019 That’s PRD Writing CITY Contest, p10

Sky-High Grannie Urban Dictionary P8 P9

6 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TALES OF THE CITY

MOBILE MADNESS Five Depressing Stats About Chinese Mobile Phone Users By Ryan Gandolfo

that they struggle to focus without having respondents who believe phone addiction new survey has come out that reveals their mobile phones around (isn’t it supposed is a serious issue that many face in modern Chinese people are seriously addicted to be the other way around?). More than half society. to their phones. Surprised? We didn’t A responded that they believe their phone ad- think so. diction has had a negative impact on commu- The impact of phone addiction is Reports have surfaced in recent years nication, driving a wedge between them and quite profound, with the habits of phone- showing a disturbing trend in how much their families and friends. obsessed individuals having major implica- people use their phones on a daily ba- tions for others. sis, and it doesn’t seem to be improving 77.8% In April, a 4-year-old girl suffocated to anytime soon. China Youth Daily’s survey What has everyone glued to their phones you death inside her father’s car after he was center wenjuan.com recently unveiled ask? Well, according to survey results, 77.8% distracted by his phone. The father was some depressing statistics about Chinese of respondents mainly use their powerful lambasted online for paying more attention mobile phone users after conducting a sur- handheld device for social networking apps to his phone than his own daughter, who vey, which compiled questionnaires from like WeChat and Weibo. Meanwhile, over 60% was left in the vehicle for nine hours. Last 2,004 respondents ranging from 19 to 59 noted browsing information as the top rea- year, one student in Hunan dropped out of years old. son to tune into their phone. school in October after a teacher confiscat- ed her phone. The 10th-grader wrote the just how glued Chinese people are to their 84.7% teacher a chilling letter, threatening to take phones:Here are five staggering stats that show According to the survey, 84.7% of respond- her own life if her phone wasn’t returned

ents spend, on average, over three hours each to her. 12 hours day on their mobile phones. By our simple It’s important to note that this issue 2.3% of respondents admitted to using their calculation, that amounts to over 45 days a spans far beyond the Middle Kingdom, with mobile phones more than 12 hours a day. We year spent looking at a tiny screen. several countries around the world logging weren’t even sure that was possible… similar daily phone activity.

93% 54% This high number shows the percentage of

Nearly 54% of survey participants confided

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 7 THE BUZZ DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM? RANDOM NUMBER Miao Xiaohong (or Flying Grannie)

Retirement is only a state of mind. Miao Xiaohong 10 million recently proved that, after the 82-year-old former ... is the approximate number of high school students who signed up for this 40 minutes around the nation’s capital. The sky year’s gaokao, the grueling university frolicpilot (and reportedly certified set badass) a record flew in China’s a small aviation plane for admission exam that took place on June industry, according to China Daily. Miao had one 7 and 8, as reported by state media. After hell of a career in the world of aviation, being one years of declining figures, 2019 saw the of the earliest female pilots in the PRC after win- number of test takers rise to 2007 levels, while strict regulations regarding ‘gaokao migrants’ and groundbreaking reforms, foundning a herselfcoveted airdropping position and emergency graduating materials from flight which allowed students more choices on school in 1958. Just five years after graduating, she the combination of subjects to take, were With clouds hanging a mere 100 meters above the implemented on a large scale for the first ground,to flooded Miao areas navigated in Hebei through province the during dire condi a crisis.- time. tions and the mission was deemed a success. She had to train before taking to the skies last month by walking at least 3,000 steps each day in the two - ical requirements. It was all worth it for Miao who wasmonths quoted leading saying, up to“Seeing the flight, the boundlessamong other blue phys sky unfold in front of me, it was very open.”

QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Hainan’s strategic position is very clear; they want to destroy Las Vegas” So, wrote one netizen last month after it was announced that the island province had scrapped 14 local regulations that previously banned gambling and prosti- tution. Party time? Not so much. It turns out that all the excitement was a little misplaced; while the island did indeed cancel the aforementioned laws, the rules were abolished because they were outdated. The newer and nationwide Public Security Administration Punishment Law already includes penalties for both gambling and sex work. So, there you have it, folks: don’t expect to gamble away your life savings alongside mysterious women in Hainan anytime soon.

8 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM URBAN DICTIONARY [email protected]

Laughter is the best medicine, but not all ‘peek-a-boos.’ Then comes about a decade of of us require the same dosage. We all laugh really enjoying fart jokes. After exploring the at different things, and our sense of humor world a bit and learning that humans are the changes as we age. For some, a goat sneezing absolute dominant species on this planet, we sends them to hysteria while others prefer come to enjoy animal humor for a few years. jokes written in HTML. Learning about human culture and history Literally meaning ‘laughing point,’ xi- opens the door for referential humor and xiaodian / xiào diǎn / n., the threshold aodian is the threshold a joke has to cross raises our xiaodian a bit more, and so on and of funniness or amusement笑点 required to make to make one laugh, in terms of absurdity, so forth. one laugh sophistication and craftsmanship of the joke That is not to say that a low xiaodian is I can’t stop watching this hilarious video teller. Those who laugh at almost anything worse – the better your xiaodian is, the more of a squirrel falling out of a tree. – animals in human clothes, fart cushions, you cringe, which brings more wrinkles onto dad jokes – are said to have ‘low’ xiaodian, your face. as it doesn’t take much to make them crack Side note: This term is not to be confused Your xiaodian has gotten so low in the up. Those who are very selective in express- with the temperature of a joke, which is a last year. ing amusement – it takes a lot of cleverness measurement of how hard the joke is at- to make them laugh – are said to have ‘high’ tempting to make you laugh. I’m crying from laughter! xiaodian. They cringe rather than crack up To determine how high your xiaodian is, upon hearing bad puns, because bad puns you could open your TikTok or Youku app simply don’t reach their xiaodian. and compare your watch history to that of a Good for you. I’ll put the clip on a loop It is said that one’s xiaodian becomes 5-year-old. If the two are indistinguishable, for you. higher as one ages. As babies, we all giggle at you are probably doing it right! Mia Li

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 9 CITY | FEATURE WINNING WORDS The Winning Prose from Our 2019 That’s PRD Writing Contest

nother year, another That’s PRD work at our booze-fueled reading event. Writing Contest – and boy, was this There, a panel of judges made up of three Ayear special. In addition to having the prominent PRD-based journalists helped most-ever submissions, we also recorded our crown the winners, while an audience’s best-ever attendance for the That’s PRD Live choice award was bestowed upon the writer Reading Party, which was held on June 1 at slash reader who received the most votes the Conrad Guangzhou’s elegant Mg Bar. from those in attendance. Just like our previous prose contests over But before we share our winners from the past two years, the whole process began the night, we want to sincerely thank eve- with a call for content at the end of April. ryone who participated in this year’s event: As previously mentioned, Pearl River Delta- Without your creative minds, this contest based writers answered big time, and we and subsequent reading event would not have been possible. Unfortunately, we don’t have enough space in the following pages to taleswere ofinundated lust and love.with a flood of travel stories, publish all the great stories we received, but poetry,Next, short our fictioneditorial and team even pored some over erotic the keep an eye on thatsmags.com for additional submissions and narrowed down the pack to written works selected by our editorial team!

22 finalists, who were invited to read their

10 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

INTERRUPTION Thomas Thorogood 1st Place Winner Guangzhou

Freak waves washed the Even here, railway into the sea a river in the sky, and the seawall a cenote where time sinks fell like a gavel. and stretches, Eternity turned a barbed hook on the unspooling strings. head of a And when the dust settles, pin after the black rain falls, shrugs and drop mal chance, and red clay tides stain bullet trains race groins stretch rip barbs – down coastlines as adrenaline through veins, hermeticfish hooks seal, dead eyes time capsule, when forever terminus. is on lips again, color back in Even here, torn cheeks stirring in Canton heat, the shockwave reaches out and everything is a splitting acceleration. in the nail of an invisible hand. Was it worth it? Was it really worth it? Even here, where the karst earth splits as the tremors reach a little death hands that shake like delirium tremens.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 11 CITY | FEATURE

LOVE ME, LOVE Kya Shirley Johnson 2nd Place Winner Guangzhou

History repeats itself as I await the verdict

Your heart told me what your mouth couldn’t Though you don’t know I heard it

Always ready to be everything Always willing to do too much

To break my bones or to bend my own back Inconveniences as such

History repeats itself As I pick myself back up

Fully aware of my own foolishness I must not have had enough

The problem is that women like me We love on a supernatural wave

Though our hearts have been battered and beaten up, we choose still to be brave

And yes, history may repeat itself, but this part too shall be

I will not let love defeat my soul; I will love until love loves me

12 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

ONE NIGHT IN YANGSHUO Chase Greene 3rd Place Winner Foshan

Sometimes I sit in Starbucks, one of the few talked about things. What, I can’t remember, places that feels like home, and let the caf- just things. feine go to my head. That’s usually when I The feeling of being in a new place can send texts to girls, with caffeine coursing make everything glow, just like a new flame through my veins and anything seems pos- can. I hadn’t known this girl long, but I was sible. already falling hard. I was 34 years old, but “What are you doing for the holiday?” I I felt like I was back in the eighth grade, all asked. The minutes passed like hours. Then butterflies and sweaty palms. a relieving reply. “No plans, you?” In Yangshuo, we rented a scooter and I asked her if she wanted to go to drove around aimlessly, stopping to take Yangshuo with me. It was a bold ask. I had pictures of the strange mountains. She sat met her at a bar weeks ago and the conver- behind me and held on close, her warm body sation went well enough that we became pressed against my back. Everything tingled WeChat friends. We stayed in touch and had as I fell even harder for her. dinner on occasion. We went to West Street and took in To my surprise, she agreed to go. She the oddities; the men in monkey costumes hadn’t been before, and she was excited to banging on drums, the mechanical peasants explore a new section of China. toiling away in perpetual motion and the I spent the weeks before the holiday swarms of gawking foreigners. on the constant verge of a panic attack. She In the hotel room, there was only one was out of my league. Beautiful, confident, a bed. Yangshuo was a popular destination force to behold. She turned heads wherever and there weren’t any double rooms left to she went. book. I was a wreck. I didn’t know what I was On the balcony, I played a Frank Sinatra doing. In my fantasy, we’d have a romantic song. What would he do? getaway and she’d fall madly in love with I climbed into bed next to her with me. my nerves on fire. After a few minutes, I I have a book, a practical guide to worked up the courage to start rubbing her Taoism. A good chunk is dedicated to sex shoulders. One thing led to another, and and I crammed as much as I could before the before long, we were naked against the hotel trip. If something happened, I wanted to be sheets. prepared. The moonlight shined through a part in I read about different positions, signs the curtains, illuminating half of her face. of arousal and ancient techniques. I bought I’ve never been more in love than in that a multi-pack of condoms and tried them all moment. on. Looking back, it was pathetic. We hardly slept that night. Sheer ec- When it came time for the trip, I didn’t stasy kept me awake but I don’t know what feel ready. I’d have to wing it. she was thinking. The train ride was brutal. It takes four We drifted apart when we returned long hours to get to Yangshuo on the high- from the trip, for reasons that I can only speed rail. I had to fill the hours, all that guess, but as Alfred Lord Tennyson once empty air, with something. Silence wasn’t an wrote: “‘Tis better to have loved and lost option. than never loved at all.” I think I had something good going. We

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 13 CITY | FEATURE

SHIFTS IN PERSPECTIVE Christian Lopez Audience’s Choice Winner Guangzhou

Dwindling memories of my former normal What makes them tick and click Fading away as new waves of energy surround And spit and shit me And how everything that makes you feel dif- Comfort me with the tropes of East meets West ferent What started as pure excitement An outsider, a foreigner A need to discover a new place led to a far Is beautiful grander revelation How every person is just a creation of their The illumination of me experiences Every iteration of consciousness my soul has How falling in love with somewhere or interacted with shaping me Someone means falling in love with the differ- Molding me to see this utterance of life from a ences those experiences curated brighter light In the art gallery that is their being Perspective is everything In the exhibition that is this new place Forcing me closer to the line where stereotype Innately we are more alike than not and habit meet The more you see the truth in that Holding my head tightly in place The harder it is to hate what’s unknown Forcing my eyes open to truly absorb what makes this city bloom Only in connecting with the people of this land Can you truly understand

14 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

CITY | PHOTO ESSAY LIFE & STYLE

Modular Magic Designing a Honeycomb-Inspired Hotel in Sichuan’s Countryside, p22

Sweet Memories Stylish Beach Towels P18 P20

16 || GZGZ || JULYJULY 20192019 || WWW.THATSMAGS.COMWWW.THATSMAGS.COM SPOTLIGHT

JASON GUADALAJARA Founder of Concrete Visionary Distribution By Matthew Bossons

Hailing from the sunny West Coast metropolis that is Los Angeles, Jason Guadalajara is well known in the South China skateboard community. Based in Foshan on and off since 2012, he is the founder and top dog at Concrete Visionary Distribution, which owns a number of skate-focused brands, including Footprint Insole Technology, FP Footwear, Colours Collectiv and Crupiê Wheels. These companies manufacture a variety of products from skateboard hardware to footwear, insoles and athletic apparel. We caught up with Guadalajara to chat about his brands, skating in China and the launch of Concrete Visionary China.

Skate culture is well established in the West, but kind of new in the East. What made you want to start a skate brand in China? boom of interest in the sport that has fol- A big part of the marketing skateboard lowed the announcement of skateboarding companies undertake involves famous rid- I actually started Footprint Insole Technology at the [2020 Tokyo] Olympics. Due to this, we ers. Do you have sponsorship agreements are in the process of launching a Chinese ver- with any notable skaters, either in China sion of our American distribution company, or North America? Chinain the Unitedand spent States, three but months it was herevery developdifficult- Concrete Visionary, in China. ingto find a special manufacturers insole that so will I bought mold toa ticket any foot. to Absolutely, we have some of the top names The skateboard scene is growing extremely worldwide endorsing our products. Joey From your experience, which products fast in China, and I quickly found that the have sold best in the Chinese market? Chinese market desired our products as well, Williams, Dane Burman and about 20 other so we started distributing to all the skate- Currently our insoles and skateboards sell professionalBrezinski, Paul skateboarders Hart, Kelvin fromHoefler, all Neenover the board shops in China. Now, our products the best in China. In the Asian market, a lot of world. Aaron ‘Jaws’ Homoki ollied 25 stairs, can be found all over Taobao. Other Asian young children are starting to learn to skate the largest set of stairs ollied in history, using countries like Japan also have considerable and protection is an important thing to their a pair of our insoles a few years back. skateboard lifestyle markets. parents. Our insoles help to upgrade impact absorption in shoes as well as keep the bio- What can China-based consumers ex- Tell us a bit about what products your mechanics of the joints working properly, pect from your operations in the coming companies specialize in? which prevents injuries. months? We started off with insoles, which eventually We have a lot of developments happening What kinds of initiatives do your compa- went on to be sold in 15 different countries. soon. A new line of vulcanized shoes with a nies partake in to help support China’s I then spent more and more time in China new type of performance never seen before skate scene? learning how to make apparel, then shoes in vulcs, as well as a wider availability of and then, this last year, we started a skate- Thanks to the recent addition of skateboard- our products in China due to the launch of board brand. ing to the Olympics, the Chinese govern- Concrete Visionary China. Now we can sell di- ment itself is putting a lot of investment into rectly to Chinese customers and skate shops Where do the bulk of your skate products skateboarding infrastructure. We are able to without the need for an intermediary distri- go? play a small part by sponsoring local events bution company, which means lower prices and skate shop events with free products for for consumers in China. We mainly sell to the USA and Europe, al- giveaways. though China is quickly catching up with the Global.concrete-visionary.com

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 17 STYLE RADAR

COVET UNDER THE LENS Sweet Memories Getting Ugly Famed Chinese candy maker White American shoe brand Crocs an- Rabbit and American perfume creators nounced that it would cut its produc- Scent Library teamed up to debut an tion levels by two-thirds over the next entire line of sweet skincare products. year in China in an effort to lessen The themed line, inspired by the classic the blow as the trade war between creamy treat, was released on Tmall at the two countries rages on. The com- the end of May and was an instant hit, pany estimated that they would lose with thousands of items sold within sec- around USD5 million if a 25% tariff onds. The collection features all the ne- were to be applied in August, and, in cessities from body lotion to shower gel, preparation, aim to source only 10% and is also available on Taobao. Basically, of their products from China by 2020. this means you can now smell like milk The casual rubber clogs, which are candy all the time… and it’s socially ac- popular for their functionality and ceptable. comfort, but notorious for their ugly design, have been reborn as an ironi- RMB0-2, tmall.com and taobao.com cally trendy accessory in recent years. We’re not exactly sure if this is good news or bad news…

OVERHEARD

“I don’t think there is any need to learn self-defense skills. I only need to wear Uniqlo Kaws clothes and no one will dare to touch me. They will all know that I can not only fight very well but also run very fast!”

hands on Uniqlo’s latest collaboration. Last month, the Japanese fast fashion brand Uniqlo launched…wrote one their Weibo much-anticipated user in response clothing to the line stampede with American of frenzied artist shoppers and designer flocking Kaws, to get and, their in a predictable turn of events, Chinese shoppers went crazy for it. Images and videos of physical

全员 conflicts, large crowds and dismembered mannequins went viral on Weibo under the hashtag # kaws#.

18 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

HOT ON TAOBAO

A 25-year-old woman in Jiangsu province after hearing from multiple friends has found herself a lucrative gig: making bird that there needs to be a better way diapers. Zheng Han, a former nurse turned to deal with their pet birds’ waste bird nappy designer, made a career change (no more shit hitting the fan). have setup shop, targeting customers with pet in 2014 that brought her much closer to na- After a slow start, Zheng now ships over birds who may or may not suffer from irritable ture. According to China Daily, she rakes in 1,000 bird diapers a month, which she sells for bowel syndrome. RMB30,000 a month (not too shabby, Zheng). around RMB20 a piece. Her family has even Originally, Zheng was designing and sell- come around to her new career, despite being Bird diapers are available on Taobao starting from ing decorative costumes for birds, but started RMB1 designing diapers for the feathered creatures skeptical at first. Judging by a quick scan on Taobao, a flock of new bird diaper designers

TAP THAT APP SF Express In China, express delivery is painfully easy nowadays, thanks in large part to one Shenzhen-based company that practically wrote the rules back in the mid-’90s. Wang Wai founded SF Express in 1993 in Shunde, a city just outside of Guangzhou. Starting out as an illegal business engaged in ‘black delivery’ between Hong Kong and China, SF Express has ballooned into a dynamic company offering international express delivery services and more. Considered to be China’s largest express delivery company, SF Express, known as Shun Feng in Mandarin, offers mobile users the ability to mail packages with the you’d run out of stamps? Those days are long gone. clickThe of a app thumb. has provenRemember to be driving a godsend to the for post the officemasses as in a kidChina, to mail operating something in all when major cities and coming at a fair price. Earlier this month, we sent a package (under 1-kilogram) from Guangzhou to Shenzhen for only RMB13. You can also arrange international shipping to send your friends abroad a little something from the Middle Kingdom (expect to pay at least RMB100). While the SF Express App may look different depending on which app store you download it from, the concept is still pretty cut and dry: sign-up using your phone number, plug in the sender and recipient details and arrange a time for the delivery person to pick up the parcel. Voila! Unfortunately for those of you looking to ship something do- mestically, the app is only available in Chinese, but don’t worry, dear readers, because we have a super easy guide for those who want to give it a try! (Scan the QR code to access our SF Express guide).

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 19 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION WIPE ME DOWN 10 Stylish Beach Towels to Keep You Dry This Summer Compiled by Phoebe Kut

Frolicking in the sand and Somar splashing in the sea this RMB99 summer calls for a fluffy ikea.cn and fashionable – yet functional – beach towel. Here are our top picks.

H&M RMB100 hm.com/en_cn Off-White RMB189 ssense.com/zh-cn

Tribord RMB100 decathlon.com.cn

Serapis RMB595 20 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ssense.com/zh-cn FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 21 LIFE & STYLE | ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN

MODULAR MAGIC Designing a Honeycomb-Inspired Hotel in Sichuan’s Countryside By Matthew Bossons

Project name: Nan’an Xiangyuan Hotel Location: Anren Ancient Town, Sichuan province Complex area: 30,000 square meters Design company: Jiangsu Zhaozhi Construction Technology, Chengdu Anren Overseas Chinese City Cultural Tourism Development, Sichuan Delan Landscape Design The brief: Located in Anren Ancient Town, a popular destination for those interested in Chinese history and culture, Nan’an Xiangyuan Hotel features modular rooms reminiscent of your favorite childhood tree fort – only far more luxurious. Anren is located roughly an hour’s drive from Sichuan’s provincial capital of Chengdu and is home to a diverse array of museums, as well as preserved mansions.

WeChat ID 华侨城安仁公馆酒店群 huaiaocheng anren gongguan iudian un

Each and every bee hive-inspired treehouse includes a cozy dining or tea area.

22 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN | LIFE & STYLE

Forty-two honeycomb-shaped rooms dot the 30,000-square-meter hotel grounds, which is

mainly composed of a large scenic lavender field.

thanks to the large window set above the beds, which alsoSleeping offers quarters commanding are flooded views with of the natural surrounding light countryside. MODULAR MAGIC Designing a Honeycomb-Inspired Hotel in Sichuan’s Countryside By Matthew Bossons create a homey, almost cabin-like feel. Faux-wood flooring and lower wall paneling

Each accommodation boasts a ‘rooftop’ patio, which designers have tied into the honeycomb theme by way of a pergola-esque wooden frame that rises above the to 76 square meters. deck. The interior floor space of each treehouse ranges from 32

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 23 Here Comes a New Challenger American Football and Chinese Football On Their Legacy and ARTS Influences, p28

Movie Releases Angelababy Sci-Fi Cinema P26 P27 P34

24 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM DRUMROLL - 25 - - - 2019 | GZ | , and Shanghai , and Shanghai music at merrierecord. ’ | JULY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM People can even get intimidated and get intimidated can even People . Later . Later Shii’s Floating Signifiers die electronica Inner Mongolia will also have we in the year album, Qing’s second band Hai rock prog Zeming’s debut, Xu hip hop artist jazz Yunnan debut and West’s By Xi’an indie pop duo West more. Check out Merrie Records to happen to the majority of audiences. happen to to ‘synthesizer,’ tags like stress if you go away efficient way The more ‘so-and-so wave.’ make this music would describe how is to rapper like A person might feel. listeners all sound band B because they A and rock want When people think of us, we ‘dreamy.’ and ‘emotion ‘fresh,’ think of ‘new,’ them to packed.’ ally al of new terms does 2019 look in How bums for Merrie Records? a lot? or eight seven consider you Would us. In addi for exciting It’s looking very Xiamen instrumental duo Daytrip tion to Night Flow Dormancy’s EP, of Convergence’s Theory group rock power in Wuhan have , we Beings full album, Default bandcamp.com - - - prettily empty” - “The music shouldn’t be empty, not even even not “The empty, be music shouldn’t , at re ‘Emotion and pathos’ means that we ‘Emotion and pathos’ means that we re with the first three seen As we’ve seem to does not leases, Merrie Records type of one with any associated be strictly a introduce to music. Is the label aiming for musicians and of bands range diverse listeners? no is that practically The main reason Yes. of music. genre one single to listens one ever because in China, true This is particularly that’s been a pop music history hasn’t there have decades long and the audience doesn’t to have You’d of knowledge. that foundation music intensively to and listen fan be an avid the understand to a couple of years over for not going distinctions and that’s simply genre it will not change. strong form to the music and artists want the audience. The emotional connections to prettily not even be empty, music shouldn’t en strongly This also means that we empty. The impor sing in Chinese. artists to courage us during the made plain to tance of this was and interesting well It’s very years: past few and be conceptual, but when experiment to the under from away breaking it comes to speak to be able to need to you circle ground the audience. Dong 2 W’s B - - e can expect from the new label in 2019. to release new music this year.

We caughtWe up with Merrie Records’ COO Zhao Yue to ‘New’ means that we especially favor and favor ‘New’ especially means that we

and it needs to have real emotion or pathos. emotion or real have and it needs to in are and those who support newcomers, criteria in mind: the music needs to be ‘new,’ be ‘new,’ in mind: the music needs to criteria Merrie Records now selects artists with two selects artists with two now Merrie Records and days, aesthetic since the D Force our core in the past? in in their songwriting. This has been novative music that D Force Records has released has released Records music that D Force What makes this label different from the from this label different What makes completely independent. completely essentially the same team, but now we are are we but now the same team, essentially completely owned by our new company. It is our new company. by owned completely Douban Music. Merrie Records, however, is however, Records, Douban Music. Merrie corporate-level changes, and it made us de changes, corporate-level of operations taking part in the daily are In 2018, we went through some complicated some complicated through went In 2018, we and catalogue and brand Records’ D Force brands were quite independent and separate. independent and separate. quite were brands still representing are We company. our own company, even though our operations and our operations though even company, set up to best interest in our cide that it was we’ve always been a department of a bigger always we’ve who also created D Force Records. Previously, Previously, Records. D Force also created who ran Douban Music for the last 10 years, and the last 10 years, Douban Music for ran We are the original team who created and created who the original team are We How did Merrie Records come to be? to come did Merrie Records How With the release of their firstalbum, 33EMY

Lead Us a Merrie on Dance Grogan By Bryan COO ZHAO YUE COO ZHAO

MERRIE RECORDS’ RECORDS’ MERRIE very different artists spread all throughout China, and a Merrie Records has already established a strong line up of chat about what w by the same folksbehind D Force Records and Douban Music, the end of April, Merrie Records hit the ground running. Built poised

See the QR codes on this page? Scan them with the That's App when you see it on an article to find more multimedia, photos and videos related to the feature you are reading. Genius, eh? COLLAGE Download the That's App at www.thatsmags.com/app COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU

TRANSCRIBED “2019 is a challenging year, and there’s extra

JULY complications around 2 throwing a big outdoor Better Angels This timely documentary release focuses on the event in September due relationship between the world’s two most powerful countries – China and the US – and why to some big birthday these two superpowers need to work together celebrations” in order to achieve global stability. Coming from Academy Award-winning director Malcolm Beloved Shanghai music festival Concrete & Grass announced at the beginning of June that they will be taking a break in 2019, due to a landmark anniversary around their comes at a time when these two countries are usual September slot (the PRC turns 70 in October). We are certainly woe-ridden tradingClarke, thisblows film in took the ongoing five years trade to make war andand war to hear this unfortunate news, but are looking forward to what Split Works have of words. Released at the end of 2018 in the US, planned for the rest of 2019. scholars from both countries to dissect and HAO BU HAO understandthe film brings the together turbulent insights relationship from renowned between two very different, but similar, superpowers. Hao Shanghai multimedia artist Lu Yang was awarded the eighth BMW Art Journey at Art Basel in Switzerland last month. She will receive funding and support from Art Basel and BMW for her proposal, ‘Human Machine Reverse Motion Capture Project,’ which will investigate the limitations of the human body, as she undertakes a research trip, culminating in new work. Yang’s art re- volves around new media, and she has been known to use VR, gaming and popular music in her pieces. JULY 5

The Secret Life of Pets 2 this cartoon franchise, the cast returns, largely Bu Hao unchanged,Following the for huge another success fun ofand the furry first look film atin the A number of clubs and bars were closed in Shanghai city lives pets have when their owners leave. Think center in June. Popular venues like Dada, Celia and Ninja of it as Toy Story, but for animals. Voice-over were told that they had to shut their doors until further contributions come from a stellar cast, including notice, although further details were not provided. News Kevin Hart, Tiffany Haddish, Nick Kroll, Dana also surfaced that over 100 entertainment venues with- Carvey and Patton Oswalt (who replaces onanist out business licenses in Jiading district were closed for Louis C.K. as the main dog Max). On this outing, reportedly acting as protective umbrellas for gangs in the city. While no evidence has surfaced that the two spats of up with a white tiger named Hu and a pack of closures are related, what is for certain is dangerousthe pets find black themselves wolves. on a farm getting mixed that the city’s nightlife scene is experienc-

ing a period of flux.

26 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected] SINO CELEB Angelababy Chinese celebrity Yang Yin, aka Angelababy, is recognizable to almost everyone and has become one of China’s most famous faces and highest-paid actresses.

Yang, born and raised in Shanghai, moved to Hong Kong at 13 years old and gradu- ally, via the catwalk and the silver screen, built her fame to become the star she is

today. Below, we give you five fast facts about China’s ‘baby angel.’ Jewish Heritage Huangelababy Yang is one-quarter Jewish, being born to a father of Her 2015 wedding to Shanghai-born actor Huang Xiaoming was one of German-Jewish descent. the most covered media events in China, with the celebrations reportedly costing an eye-watering USD31 million. People call them China’s Fashion Model Brangelina, hence Huangelababy. Sometimes it feels like every Chinese celebrity starts their career as a model of some sort. In Angelababy’s Going Under the Knife? - Kong’s notorious ‘pseudo models’ in the late noughties. case, she first experienced fame as one of the Hong gery raised heated debate on the Chinese internet. Photos from her younger yearsIn 2015, were discussion compared on to whether those captured she had beautifiedof her at the her time face in with a questionable plastic sur Running Woman media storm. Eventually, the Chinese celebrity sealed everyone’s lips after Through intentionally awkward and mediocre act- passing an inspection by a doctor to prove she’s the real deal. ing (using hilarious facial expressions), Yang garners

WHAT’S NEW until 2014 and her appearance on the hit show Keep Runningsignificant – China’sfavor among spinoff Chinese of Korean audiences. variety showIt wasn’t Running Man – that Angelababy’s popularity on the a world tour, which will see him head to Toronto Chinese mainland rose. andControversial beyond. Now rapper going PG by One Wang finally Hao, announced PG One

one of his old songs – 'Christmas Eve' – was found tocame use under lyrics firethat at promoted the beginning sex, drugs of 2018 and after vio- lence. This new tour sees the rapper rebrand in what could quite possibly be a revival.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 27 ARTS | MUSIC HERE COMES A NEW CHALLENGER American Football and Chinese Football On Their Legacies and Influences By Bryan Grogan

hinese Football’s 2017 release, Here think that we would stay together as a band “I did have one student, probably seven Comes a New Challenger, could very until now. At the time my bandmates didn’t or eight years ago, show me his phone and Cwell be interpreted in a number of even know who American Football was.” ask me ‘Hey is this you?’” Lamos says, “And In 2015, four years after forming, the he showed me that ‘Never Meant’ had gotten a play on video game culture, with the album 3 million plays or whatever it got.” artworkways. The resembling first and most the cartoonish obvious is drawingsthat it is called Chinese Football, and their brand of Two years later and American Football sweetWuhan and band subtle released math their rock firstcaptured record, atten also- were announcing their second album, 17 might also draw upon their quirky moniker, tion with song titles like ‘Diqiu Shang Zuihou - that one might find at an arcade. The name Yige EMO Nanhai,’ or ‘The Last Emo Boy in American Midwest emo rock band American the World’ in English. years“When after thewe gotfirst, back in a together move that and was I tried thrill Football.which in turnPerhaps takes it influenceis a nod to from the fact seminal that On the other side of the globe, American ing for long-time fans of that first album. the band acquired their name from those Football reformed in 2014 as a foursome, former university students and ran with it, with the addition of singer Mike Kinsella’s to play the first record, I thought, ‘Oh, we’re establishing their own form of underground cousin Nate, for a pair of dates in Champaign, ongonna American ruin this,’” Football Lamos. “It’s says, been reflecting a challenge on secrecy in the same way that the Urbana trio Illinois and New York City. It had been 15 forthe us.band’s I mean, first it’s attempts sort of atfun playing to be a the real songs did all the way back in the late ’90s. years since the release of their self-titled, band. This is much more of a real thing than Chinese Football were founded in Wuhan nine-track album had seen them gain a cult in Central China. Also known as ‘China’s underground following. Capitalizing on that American Football (LP2) might have been Thoroughfare,’ the region is pretty analogous unexpected, slow-burning success, their label oneit ever of thewas most the first anticipated time around.” emo rock records for the American Midwest, where a tight emo Polyvinyl decided to release a deluxe edition ever, since this so-called genre went through scene established the stereotypes that we of the album, which reached No. 68 on the US something of a revival in the ’00s and ’10s. Billboard 200. Not bad for a trio of university “I like LP2 a lot. It’s the record that need- rock, today. According to Chinese Football’s students. ed to be made. We had to write those songs. singer,find associated Xu Bo, back with in that 2011 brand the Chinese of music, band emo Drummer Steve Lamos, who now resides There’s a track on there called ‘Born to Lose’ had little inkling that American Football in Colorado and works as a university profes- and I feel that is probably the best glimpse might one day reunite. sor was, funnily enough, made aware of his into the way I feel about that album.” “I picked the name just for fun,” Xu says. former band’s cult success through conversa- “I didn’t think they would reunite and didn’t tions with his students.

28 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS HERE COMES A NEW CHALLENGER American Football and Chinese Football On Their Legacies and Influences By Bryan Grogan

Meanwhile, back in China, Chinese The reasoning behind that is pretty whatever and I thought ‘Oh, this is probably Football released Here Comes a New straightforward, with the band’s sound open- one of those kinds of things.’ No, it’s a legit Challenger in 2017. In the years preceding the thing with legit players, so that was a really release, criticism surfaced online accusing the and atmosphere and creating what band pleasant surprise.” Wuhan band of ripping off American Football. membersing up significantly, have called using “an outsidemuch more record.” space The fanfare that this combination has The new record, a beautiful four-track math On the other hand, Chinese Football have caused among independent music zealots rock EP, was massively different from the carried on with their ‘Game Trilogy’ series on throughout China, and Asia, has been a joy dreamy soundscapes that the US band had Continue?, but have once again altered their to behold; not only that the much-loved created on either of their albums until that musical style on this record. “We brought American Football are making their way point. It gained the band a plethora of new more lyrics to this release so it sounds more to The Middle Kingdom, but that they have fans and new listeners. Yet the criticism per- like ‘Chinese rock’ rather than ‘emo rock’,” Xu chosen their namesake, Chinese Football, as sisted. tells us. support. “I think our music is totally different,” Xu The continued success of American “Steve Holmes, our guitar player imme- tells us, “The only commonality is that we all Football saw them grasp the opportunity diately said ‘Oh, we should see if we can get use a telecaster (guitar).” Chinese Football on the tour,’ because he fol- Lamos concurs with Xu’s assessment, had, through various means, become familiar lows their music and he also follows them on saying “They’re doing very different, and very withto play Chinese in China Football’s for the firstmusic time. and The presence band Instagram,” Lamos tells us about proposition- interesting things, musically.” throughout the preceding years. ing the Chinese band. In 2019, by some funny stroke of luck, Xu remembers a brief encounter he had “So we thought ‘Oh, you know, you do a both bands released new records, American with the band during a previous world tour. “I shot in the dark it’s just sort of a funny thing if Football with American Football (LP3) and once saw American Football’s show in Japan, they’d agree to do it… and sure enough, here Chinese Football with Continue?, both of and gave a CD to Mike as a gift and told him we are.” which see the bands take a leap forward. LP3 that I had a band called Chinese Football. He sees American Football move further away said that he had already heard of us,” Xu says. Thu Aug 1, .0pm HKD90. 1F, cean ne, from the legacy of their debut, with the much Lamos doesn’t remember the encoun- Shung Shun Street, au Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong talked-about removal of the famed ‘House at ter, but he sure as hell knows who Chinese 香港九龙油塘崇信街号cean ne一楼 ticketflap. com Urbana,’ which made appearances on the al- Football are. “You know we get a lot of people

bum covers of their first two records. spoofing the band or teasing the band or

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 29 ARTS | MUSIC CITY POP DJ and Vinyl Collector Endy Chen Talks on the Influential Japanese Genre

By Bryan Grogan

City pop music began as the Japanese answer to new wave in the late ’70s, with new money and a new lifestyle in Japan calling for a novel soundtrack. Combining a variety of musical elements, such as funk, soul, jazz and more, the genre was sometimes derided throughout the ’80s for being kitschy and aimed at the Japanese asically, to me, city pop is his emotional vocals, make for a kind of like a large fusion very urban and mellow sound. equivalent of yuppies. Bof rock, funk and soul, as I think people don’t really With the passing of time, however, city well as jazz and even reggae. It’s care to try and understand the pop has once again come back into the more like a feeling, like that of lyrics, but mostly enjoy the a vintage style within an urban music. That’s the point of city mainstream, with musicians offering their “ setting. pop music: simple, relaxed and own slant on the form. With the emergence As for why this style of music slightly groovy. of new genres which have taken influence rose to popularity when it did, In fact, beginning in the ’80s, I think that it had something to Japanese music started to filter from city pop, like vaporwave, future funk do with producers who began to over to China in a very special and nu disco, the musical style has come use certain types of equipment to way. As far as I am aware, even on back into vogue. make their music, such as Roland the Chinese mainland, there were 808s, DX-7 keyboards and many many Japanese pop songs that We got in touch with DJ, vinyl collector others. These producers obvi- were covered around that time. and all-round musical archivist Endy Chen, ously enjoyed the sound of this At the same time, there who gave us more insight into his own modernistic music, and it helped were many, many more in Hong listeners relate to the rising Kong and Taiwan. [Editor’s note: thoughts on this style of music. standard of living in Japan at the Look up Sandy Lam’s album City time, so they could enjoy this ’80s Rhythm or Anita Mui’s cover of music more and more. Marika Takeuchi’s ‘Plastic Love’ My personal favorite city for reference]. pop album was made by Makoto At the moment, old city pop Matsushita 松下诚. His debut vinyl records are at their highest album First Light, which was re- prices ever. For me personally, leased in 1981, is a good fusion of I just love the simple, romantic rock, funk and disco, with a bit of sound of this genre of music; the jazz. All of these, combined with songs have a loving feeling. ”

30 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

ARTS | ALBUMS CHINA Three New Homegrown Albums on Our Radar MUSIC CORNER This Month By Bryan Grogan

Hoon by Run Run Run Born of the ethnic melting pot that is Guizhou province, Run Run Run have been creating psy- erhu, a two-stringed traditional Chinese instrument. More so than many bands active in China today, Runchedelic Run vorticesRun capture for five the years terrifying now. claustrophobicGuitarist and vocalist sensation Xiao of Dou the wastropical, raised forested on the regions in the South of the country. Recorded over the course of a few weeks, Hoon gives the impression of a deeply improvisational album, although Xiao Dou says that this is only partially true. ‘Repercussion’ employs repeated musical phrases, chanting and high-pitched guitar notes, reminiscent of phenomenal psychedelic band Moon Duo and recreating music we might associate with Eastern mysticism. ‘Fireball’ makes use of fuzzy guitar, noise and distortion to create a wall of sound, while the percussion and bass carry the rhythm of movement, with the song as a whole giving the impression of scenes very cinematic. The mood is lighter on ‘Curtainfall’ as the band play with a pair of bright, dueling guitars on what feels like a brief interlude and respite from the intensity that went before.

Listen here downloads.maybemars.orgalbumhoon

Underwater/Fantasy by StrawberryPapa A purer match of artist and label is hard to imagine as instrumental hip hop wizard StrawberryPapa and hip hop, boom bap curators Eating Music Label collide for this beautiful aquatic album (with no less than Knopha on mastering duties.) From the outset, on ‘Rainy Street,’ we’re treated to a barrage of sensuosity, as pizzicato Spanish guitar combines with the sound of lashing rain. Elsewhere, the producer gathers us for a trip beneath the ocean on ‘The Whispering Sea,’ which shifts between dream-like rhythmic passages and the trundling sound of underwater movement. The sound of old school instrumental hip hop, as initi- ated by the likes of Madlib and Bonobo is clearly audible on tracks like ‘Bill’ and ‘Bae,’ while StrawberryPapa is unafraid to mix things up with jazzy vibes as on ‘Ocean’ and the aforementioned Spanish guitar, as well as the presence of a harp on ‘Foolish,’ if we’re not mistaken. Each of the 13 tracks is short and easily digestible, imparting wildly different vibes and using the

and samples to create a sound that is fantastically mellow and just what your beach holiday has calledinfluence for. of jazz, underwater video game sound aesthetics and a wide range of instruments

Listen here strawberrypapa.bandcamp.comalbumunderwater-fantasy

Default Beings by Theory of Convergence The third release in as many months by Merrie Records, Theory of Convergence’s Default Beings is about as different from 33EMYBW’s Dong 2 and Daytrip Dormancy’s Night Flow as one could we have to say we weren’t bowled over by what we felt was the sound of some pretty average progressiveimagine. While metal. the Withfirst singlethat being on this said, album, now that‘Life we’veis Illusion’ heard dropped the full allproduct the way – equipped back in May, with crunching, swirling guitar, melancholic country music lyrics and witchy vocals – we are much keener. Taking ‘Falling Apart’ as an example, there’s something not quite atypical about the way Theory of Convergence construct their songs; the gentle way the guitar rises and falls during the chorus reminds us of traditional indie music song structures. Make no mistake, this is heavy rock, but the way the instruments interact with each other allows each song to leave a distinct impression. ‘White Box,’ begins with gently plucked guitar licks, like Led Zeppelin at their soft- est. The standout track on the album, however, is the nine-minute closer ‘Hope,’ which is a mael- strom of pounding percussion and swooping vocals, before a fantastical overdub combines with piano and violin, while vocalist Joan returns to close out what is a very weird and experimental album.

Listen here merrierecord.bandcamp.comalbumdefault-beings

32 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

ARTS | FILM THE RACE FOR SPACE Is China’s Sci-Fi Cinema Movement Ready to Blast-Off? By Bryan Grogan

Reset, Crazy Alien and, of course, n the aftermath of the overwhelming suc- The Wandering Earth have established China The Wandering asfilms a truly like viable producer of large-scale and IEarth, the nation and the world are await- ingcess what of comes Chinese next sci-fi for film,Chinese cinema. Will Death Ray On A Coral Island, or Shanhu Frank Gwo and Liu Cixin’s apocryphal tale of Daoambitious Shang sci-fide Shi films. Guang , has frequently been the dying sun and mankind’s desperate effort to reach a new solar system stand out as a scenes focusing on scientists’ efforts to stop landmark in China’s global cinematic appeal? anposited atomic as bombChina’s being first usedever sci-fias the film, ultimate with You’ve likely seen the headlines proph- weapon. Hongmei Zhang’s 1980 effort has been praised for its visual effects, although blockbuster in China. Everyone and their the script and plotting is regarded as patchy grandmotheresying that 2019 is trying will be to the predict year whatof the will sci-fi be – and a bit zany – as it combines a number of unwieldy ideas. Also, in a potentially offen- of the Middle Kingdom, with many in agree- the next major sci-fi blockbuster to come out actors in whiteface imitating evil Americans. the release of the unusually hyped Shanghai Nonetheless,sive turn of events, a memorable the film beginning. features Chinese Fortressment on, onewhich particular will see film.Lu Han August and Shu9 will Qi see The ’80s and ’90s saw various experi- But rather than focus on the future, we’ll takefight theback retroactive insidious alienstep of forces. turning our heads pressedmentation to byleave Chinese out well-known filmmakers classics with the towards the past and invoke the Beegees ofform the of ’80s, sci-fi such cinema. as Dislocation We would (1986) be hard- and here (or The Rapture, based on your prefer- Wonder Boy (1988). The former is standard ence) in saying ‘How Deep Is Your Love for blackboard soundtrack with futuristic archi- The Middle Kingdom is perhaps best tecturefreaky sci-fi (actually fare, featuringcombining white a nails-on-the- actors this knownSci-fi, China?’ on the global stage for creating gor- time, which puts it a notch above Death Ray geously cinematic historical dramas, such as On A Coral Island in our books.) Dislocation House of Flying Daggers and Hero, as well as sees a man implant his memories in a clone war dramas such as Operation Mekong and and send him out into the world as himself. Wolf Warrior. It’s only relatively recent that

34 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FILM | ARTS

Elsewhere, in Wonder Boy, the focus turns atmosphere. By some bizarre twist of logic, a towards a small child, born with the power young boy sitting at home suddenly gains the The award-winning success of Liu Cixin’s The of electricity in his hands, which allows him power to talk to animals. The animals tell him Threecinema Body scene Problem has seen gave a significant rise to an immediuptick. - to control electrical appliances. Both of these about the catastrophic atmospheric disaster, - but the apparently responsible adults around That push, however, proved problematic, with ing forays into ’80s cinema in China and are him will not listen. He’s thus forced to work aate movie push version to have ofthe The novel Three made Body into Problem a film. readilyearly examples available of on Chinese YouTube. sci-fi are interest together with his furry friends to save the currently postponed, however a TV version of In the same year that Wonder Boy was planet, because, obviously. the book is said to be in the works. released, Hecheng Ren was presented to More recently, in the ’90s and ’00s, In 2017, Reset, a story that involves time - travel, universe hopping and dopplegangers, Face/Off, City Under Siege by as a woman rushes to save her son, was re- seesChinese the audiences.brain of a farmer This film, transplanted reminiscent into of ChineseHong Kong sci-fi director has tended Benny towards Chan receiv the outra- leased and received meager success, but actu- thatthe Nicolas of a prominent Cage, John businessman Travolta flick who has geous,ing pretty with meager films like ratings from audiences. passed away. This turn of events causes much named Sunny and his colleagues who are ally Andbecame all of one that of leadsChina’s us best-knownback to The sci-fi off as closer resembling the Eddie Murphy- transformedThat film focuses into superon a circus mutants performer in a freak Wanderingfilms (out of Earth a very. An small unexpected sample set).success? comedydeception Trading and conflict, Places with the film coming Sixty For sure, although novelist Liu’s story-writing Million Dollar Man, sees Stephen Chow play chops have been well-regarded the world Daqiceng than Xiaoshia serious, on sci-fi the aaccident. rich playboy Another whose Hong body Kong is blownfilm, up and over. With that being said, The Wandering otherflick. hand, features a very novel plotline that then remade so that he can transform into Earth has paved the way for bigger and couldThe actually 1990 filmapply to our current-day geo- anything he wants. Again, this story has been bolder productions, such as the forthcom- graphical problems. Director Xiaoning Feng criticized, with the special effects and acting ing Shanghai Fortress. Will they be as good, shows how a couple robs a train and subse- coming in for harsh scrutiny. however? quently releases poisonous gases into the

Since around 2015, the Chinese sci-fi

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 35 ARTS | MUSIC THE BEAT OF BEIJING J-Fever on Collaborating with Soulspeak and the Sound of the Capital By Bryan Grogan

ow do you capture the sound of a city? or Xiao Laohu) and producer Soulspeak. In elements from both his US and Chinese back- So many have tried and so few have explaining their album, Beijing Ma?, J-Fever ground. Htruly succeeded in achieving anything tells us, “I wanted to try to write about the In speaking to Chinese website Woozy more than a subjective interpretation of their temperament of Beijing, the kind of sloppy, about his collaboration with Chengdu pro- chosen metropolis. careless, casual and absurd calm that exists ducer Eddie Beatz, J-Fever let slip a snippet The air of chaos that pervades China’s in the city.” about his unique relationship with Soulspeak, capital city, Beijing, has fascinated many revealing that the producer had asked him to bands and musicians, with punks, noise art- backgrounds, with J-Fever regarded as one of work on something ‘new’ together. New being ists, industrial folk and straight-up avant the pioneersThe pair comeof Chinese from hipsignificantly hop, helping different to garde musicians attempting to replicate the further the culture of freestyle in the country, intensity of one of the largest and most sto- while also experimenting with the form by “Unconsciously, we have known each a very significant word here. ried cities in the world. making jazzy hip hop. Soulspeak, meanwhile, other for six years; we were introduced by a The latest duo to doff their hat to the city is a California-born, Chinese-American friend who is from Los Angeles,” J-Fever tells are rapper J-Fever (also known as Little Tiger, producer whose work combines cultural us.

36 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS

“Soulspeak is my best friend and my teacher. I miss the time when we could meet and chat frequently. We talk about a lot of things other than music. That kind of happiness is more than making music together. But the internet is very convenient. We will FaceTime before making music, to feel what kind of atmosphere the other wants.” The album that this pair of highly creative musicians and frequent collaborators have made this time around is everything that you might expect, in that it takes unexpected leaps, sways with spoken-word rhythm and gnaws on the ears at points, with the sound of industrial machinery that is so ever-present, not only in Beijing, but all over the country. The thought occurs to us, then, whether Beijing is so very unique, or rather a macrocosm of a microcosm that charts the running trends that are prevalent in the China that we know today. At any rate, a number of issues are raised during the course of the album’s 10 songs. For one, we encounter the issue of closing music clubs on ‘Yugong Yishan Yizou Le.’ Yugong Yishan, the famed music venue formerly based this year. As J-Fever puts it, “Yugong Yishan has tooout manyof Dongcheng, memories, officially but I feel shuttered that I have earlier to lose these memories. Before I completely lose them, I have to tamper with them.” When we questioned J-Fever about the per- ceived uniqueness of Beijing, he was at a loss. “That’s a big question,” he told us. Correct. A big question that is perhaps better answered in the form of segments, parts and aspects, as on the album Beijing Ma?

Think about James Joyce’s Ulysses, which hugely changeable scope of sounds. takes shape over the course of 24 hours and With all that in mind, and with our ideas 18 episodes at various locations around of Beijing as a city made up of sound truly Dublin, a much smaller city. How then to muddled, we can also say that Beijing Ma? is compact Beijing, a city of 20-plus million a beautiful, poetic, jazz-infused, experimental people and the heart of arguably the most intriguing country in the world right now? “I radar. Whether or not it truly describes the don’t know, bro.” landscapeswork that has of thethus Capital far flown to the beneath North the are A fair answer to an impossible question. surely worth discussing, but, regardless, the To return to the point we brought up album stands as a testament to the versatility earlier, is there an objective sound or idea of and virtuosity of the pair of artists on show. Beijing, or any city for that matter? Rather than hold to the idea of a perfect symbol, it’s Listen to Beiing Ma? here perhaps better to empathize with the stories that J-Fever tells us here on Beijing Ma? and which Soulspeak brings to life with his vivid,

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 37 GET LOST EXPLORING DESTINATIONS IN ASIA AND THE PACIFIC

By Matthew Bossons

3838 COVER STORY COVER STORY COVER COVER STORY COVER

t doesn’t matter if you live in Beijing, Shanghai or down in Guangzhou or Shenzhen, all of China’s major eastern metropo- lises are well-linked to the outside world. We’re particularly well connected with the Asia-Pacific region, which is home to some of the hottest tourist destinations in the world – from the beaches of Bali, Fiji and South Thailand to the temples of Cambodia, Myanmar and India. Now that school is out and summer is here, it seems like the perfect chance to take a deep dive into the swoon-worthy destinations located in our geographic backyard. Because, frankly, there has never been a better time to embark on a vacation or adventure than right now! Over the following pages, we’ve rounded up the hottest travel spots for history buffs, cultural cosmonauts, foodies and beach bums. While we do like to consider ourselves experienced travelers slash adventurers, to assemble this dream destination guide we enlisted the help of a panel of travel industry experts: travel agents, marketing firms and writers. We hope you find their selections both inspiring and entic- ing. Bon voyage! FOR THE BEACH BUMS TAHITI & BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA

Recommended beaches include Plage de Toaroto (for snorkeling), Papanoo (for surfers) and the black-sand Venus Point (for everyone else). At only 24 square kilometers, Bora Bora is ocated 277 kilometers and a 50-minute considerably smaller than Tahiti. But don’t let size flight apart, Tahiti and Bora Bora are among fool you: Bora Bora is a once-in-a-lifetime destina- Lthe most beautiful – albeit expensive to tion complete with a lush tropical landscape and visit – islands in the Pacific. In short, both islands pristine beaches. The accommodation of choice are strong contenders for the literal definition of here: bungalows suspended over the clear, baby paradise. blue waters of the island’s lagoons. Tahiti is the larger of the two islands, at 646 For those looking to get off the beach and ex- square kilometers, and boasts both white- and plore the interior of Bora Bora, the island is home black-sand beaches, rich Polynesian culture to a number of WWII relics, including eight huge and a myriad of watersport options. Surfing? artillery cannons that were set up by US forces, Check. Scuba diving? Check. Fishing, snorkeling, who chose the island as their South Pacific supply kitesurfing and canoeing? Quadruple check. base in the wake of the attack on Pearl Harbor.

well-to-do couples, and there is no shortage of resorts that cater to this market. That being said, there is more to the Maldives than romance and matrimonial bliss on the beach: The island chain offers world-class diving, snorkeling, fishing and even some pretty de- cent surfing spots. In fact, according to surfing news website SurferToday.com, despite being overlooked by many, the Maldives boasts some of the best waves in the world. The site goes on to dub the island chain as the perfect destination for inter- mediate and advanced surfers. n independent nation composed of One thing worth noting: As a Muslim coun- over 1,100 islands and sand banks, try, alcohol is not widely available outside of Athe Maldives is located off the south- resorts or hotels, which means a fancy cocktail western coast of India. Famous for stunning on the beach might not be an option unless 40 beaches and crystal-clear water, the archi- you opt to spend the big bucks on swanky ac-

COVER STORY COVER pelago is a popular honeymoon destination for commodation. THE MALDIVES COVER STORY COVER hen most people think of vacationing in Indonesia, of Manado city is Paal beach, although wise travelers will hop they think of Bali, or possibly Lombok and the Gili a boat to Bunaken National Marine Park and the five pictur- FOR THE BEACH BUMS WIslands. One destination that we’ve discovered is not esque islands dotted within it. The marine reserve is famous for on most people’s radar, however, is the island of Sulawesi, and its stunning corals, vibrant fish species and sea turtles, and is specifically the city of Manado on the island’s northern half. popular for divers, snorkelers, beach bums and island hoppers. While the city is home to unique cultural practices and Of note for divers: A 2012 survey of nine dive sites in the great food, we’re going to focus squarely on the region’s ma- marine park found that six of the areas offered sightings of rine resources, which were described to us by one Guangzhou- over 200 fish species in a single dive, while two sites yielded over 300 species. To put these numbers in perspective, count- based travel INDONESIA ISLAND, BUNAKEN AND MANADO industry 41 insider as among “the ing over 200 species on any given dive indicates an area has best in the world.” ‘very high diversity.’ One of the most popular beaches in the vicinity

nature chicken rice. While the city itself is home to some spectacular beaches, we t doesn’t matter if highly recommend making a day you live in Hohhot trip to the stunning, South Pacific- Ior Shanghai, or if esque beaches of nearby Wuzhizhou you’ve only been living Island. in China for two weeks, the For travelers not interested in going fact of the matter is everyone here has heard through the hassles of applying for a Chinese about ‘China’s Hawaii’: Sanya. visa, Hainan allows visa-free entry up to 30 Arguably the best place in China for a days for tourists from 59 countries (travel- proper beach vacation, Sanya is the spot to ers must register with a Hainan-based travel go for those looking to score some much- agency). needed R&R. The city, which is small by Looking to visit China’s southern beauty? Chinese standards – sitting well below the 1 We’re currently offering a travel package million resident threshold, is situated on the to enjoy three days and two nights in a sea southernmost point of the island province of view room at The Westin Sanya Haitang Bay Hainan, and is known across the country as Resort for under RMB2,100. Scan the QR much for its tropical weather and as its sig- code for more details. SANYA, CHINA FOR THE CULTURAL COSMONAUTS RUSSIA BAIKAL, LAKE IRKUTSK AND

ocated in the heart Eastern Siberia, the historic well as food from the Buryat people (namely pozy: settlement of Irkutsk is, as the folks at Lonely large meat-filled dumplings); and 4) There are ample LPlanet put it, “by far the most popular stop on churches, religious sites and museums to check out – the Trans-Siberian Railway.” for those looking for a little enlightenment. The city, which is located in Irkutsk Oblast, is a Be sure to pay a visit to Irkutsk’s Prince Vladimir worthwhile destination for a number of reasons: 1) Monastery, which was built in 1888, and to check It’s a great place to scope out decaying Soviet archi- out local folk music and dance performances. tecture and weathered wooden structures used by Additionally, if you are visiting during the winter, notable Decembrist exiles; 2) It’s close proximity to don’t miss the city’s celebrated ice festival. the world’s largest freshwater lake by volume: Lake Adventurous travelers are encouraged to head to Baikal; 3) It offers travelers the chance to try both Lake Baikal for stunning scenery and the chance to traditional Russian cuisine and local fish products, as learn more about the region’s Buryat heritage.

DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

nown globally for its Arabian, Emirati and Islamic cultural the Middle East and is home to heritage – and for its culture of opulence and excess – large communities of Indians, KDubai is a fantastic introduction to the Arabian world. Pakistanis and Bangladeshis, Home to Earth’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, the city is the as well as smaller expatriate capital of the Emirate of Dubai – one of the seven emirates that communities composed of make up the United Arab Emirates. Filipinos, Somalis and even An ideal jumping off point for further exploration of the Brits. According to an article Middle East – and Asia at large, Dubai offers a wide range of cul- published by Reuters, foreigners 42 tural activities and experiences, from lunch at a Bedouin camp in living in the city outnumbered the desert and afternoon tea at an Arabian tea house in the city’s local Emiratis by more than five to COVER STORY COVER old town, to market, mosque and museum tours. one back in 2013. Wandering Dubai’s souks, or markets, is a popular way to With Expo 2020 set to be held spend a morning, and will give the intrepid traveler a window in the metropolis next year, there into the region’s handicraft and culinary culture. Souks in the city has never been a better time to are specialized, focusing on products such as ornate gold jewelry, hop a plane to the ‘City of Gold.’ handicrafts, textiles and spices. Interestingly, Dubai is one of the most multicultural spots in COVER STORY COVER INDI AMRIT

or a cultural adventure that knows is a major pilgrimage site for members few parallels, look no further than of the Sikh faith and a glorious piece of Fthe city of Amritsar, located in architecture. A trip here is rewarding for India’s northern Punjab state. As the spir- a number of reasons: 1) You can learn A itual heart of the Sikh religion, the city about Sikhism and experience what offers rich cultural and historical experi- was described to us by one visitor to 43 SAR, ences for intrepid travelers. Learn about the temple as “religious bliss”; 2) After the partition of India at the Partition dark, the site is lit up in grand fashion Museum, visit the site of the 1919 and must be seen in person to be fully ap- Amritsar massacre, check out a bhangra preciated; and 3) Visitors are able to enjoy (traditional Punjabi dance) performance, a free vegetarian meal here, at what has sample the region’s spectacular cuisine been hailed as ‘the largest free kitchen in and, of course, spend an hour (or five) the world.’

wandering the storied Harmandir Sahib, According to a Munchies article from more commonly referred to as the 2015, the temple’s kitchen – which is Golden Temple. staffed by volunteers – serves 100,000 Built way back in 1604 by the fifth people on weekdays and as many as Sikh Guru, Arjan, the Golden Temple 150,000 people on holy days. CHINA CHINA HUANGSHAN,

nown in English as Yellow protected as heritage architecture. It’s Mountain, Anhui province’s also less touristy than the nearby UNESCO Kfamed Huangshan Scenic Area is ancient villages of Hongxun and Xidi, an esteemed member of the UNESCO which makes for a more relaxing explora- World Heritage List and arguably one tion experience. of China’s most popular tourist destina- Built around the Zhongchuan River, tions. All this fanfare is for good reason, the village is surrounded by eight moun- though, as the mountain offers visitors tains and its labyrinth-like layout features a stunning natural milieu and plenty of 99 intricate roads and lanes. As local cultural activities to learn more about the residents say, Chengkan Ancient area’s inhabitants. Village is “the perfect place to get When visiting the scenic area, we lost for a day.” recommend staying in Chengkan Ancient Discover the natural beauty Village, which is often touted as the best- of Yellow Mountain and Chengkan preserved feng shui village in the South with this awesome travel deal: A two- Yangtze region. This hidden gem is the night stay at the Shilili Fan Honeymoon oldest bagua (eight-sided) village in the Chengkan Yongxin Hostel, a vicinity of Huangshan, with a storied his- boutique venue located near tory dating back over 1,800 years, and Huangshan, along with a set dinner has over 150 ancient homes designed for two, starting for just RMB1,399! in traditional Hui style, with 21 of those To learn more, scan the QR code. designated as major cultural relics to be FOR THE FOODIES KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA imply put: Malaysian food is spec- in KL, and for less than RMB5 in many tacular, with bold and diverse cases. The whole spectrum of Malay and Sflavors that demand equally as Indonesian cuisine is on offer here, from much recognition as the celebrated Thai nasi lemak (a fragrant rice dish) to sea- cuisine. While regional specialties abound food laksa (spicy noodle soup) to satay, throughout the Southeast Asian nation, and can be acquired either from brick- the nation’s capital of Kuala Lumpur, and-mortar restaurants or street stalls. (To often referred to simple as KL, is be fair, there is debate about the origins the place to taste them all – and of some of the aforementioned dishes, more. As a multicultural city, although we’ll be blunt: does it really hungry travelers can dine on matter?) traditional Malay, Indian and If Indian food is what you’re craving, Chinese cuisines all in the we encourage you to saunter over to same day. Brickfields, while those looking for award- Craving roti canai (flat winning dim sum are encouraged to hit bread served with curry and up Din Tai Fung. dal)? You’ll find it in abundance

he capital city of the Socialist to start for those looking for affordable Republic of Vietnam, Hanoi’s culinary local fare, including North Vietnam’s most Texperiences run the gamut, from famous dish: pho, noodles in a beef bone fantastic street side pho, seafood spring broth (occasionally the broth is made from rolls and cheese-stuffed baguettes, to other proteins). more obscure offerings like dog meat, Fans of the late gonzo chef Anthony insects, cobra blood wine and boiled duck Bourdain and/or former US President fetus eggs (famously known as balut in the Barack Obama should be sure to check out Philippines). Bun Cha Huong Lien, a restaurant where While on our culinary escapades the duo enjoyed dinner together back in HANOI, VIETNAMthrough Hanoi we’ve largely avoided the May 2016. The meeting was chronicled in city’s more exotic – and dare we say, con- an episode of CNN’s Parts Unknown, and troversial – foodstuffs, there’s no denying the table that Bourdain and Obama dined that the noodle soup varieties offered at is now enshrined in glass. in the North Vietnamese metropolis are among the best in the world. The city’s Old Quarter is a good place

44 COVER STORY COVER COVER STORY COVER

45 OSAKA, JAPAN

o list of must-visit foodie destina- meal times to three local street food spe- tions is complete without the cialties: kushikatsu (deep-fried skewered Nisland nation of Japan. Of the meat and vegetables), okonomiyaki (a country’s numerous culinary hotspots, one savory pancake packed full of ingredients) really stands out: Osaka. As Japan’s third and takoyaki (dough balls with octopus largest city you can find foodstuffs from inside). across the country, as well as international In addition to gorging and snack- eats. ing until you literally drop, passionate Home to one of the nation’s largest foodies can also check out Momofuku fish markets, fresh, authentic sushi is read- Ando Instant Ramen Museum, a museum ily available at a reasonable price. Ramen dedicated wholly to instant noodles and and Japanese curries are also easy to find the founder of the Cup Noodle brand, and affordable, although we recommend Momofuku Ando. dedicating at least a few of your Osaka XIAMEN, CHINA

hile perhaps not as famous Foodies looking to visit Xiamen for its cuisine as Guangzhou, would be wise to check out this awe- WHong Kong and Chengdu, some hotel deal: Stay in a gorgeous among others, Xiamen offers travelers resort with spectacular views of the city’s passionate about edibles a vast tableau mountains, forests and bay scenery for of culinary delicacies to sample and en- only RMB1,688. This deal gets you a joy. two-night stay in an executive room at For an introduction into the seaside the five-star Le Meridien Xiamen Hotel, city’s cuisine, we recommend starting as well as a buffet dinner for two. Yum! at Xiamen’s popular commercial street, Scan the QR code to learn more. Zhongshan Lu. While crammed so full of tourists on most days that you’ll likely feel like a canned sardine, the thoroughfare is a great spot to taste local delicacies, from Xiamen’s famous oyster omelet to seafood noodles. Another popular foodie street is located a five-minute ferry ride from the city on Gulangyu Island – which, like several other spots on this list, has been honored by UNESCO. Meandering down pedestrian street Longtou Jie delivers countless opportunities to stuff your face and shop for souvenirs. The famous fish ball noodles here come highly recommended. FOR THE HISTORY BUFFS MYANMAR BAGAN,

ailed by more than a few folks eventually collapsed sometime in the 13th (ourselves included) as Myanmar’s century due to repeated and sustained Hspectacular answer to Cambodia’s incursions by the Mongol Empire. world-famous Angkor Wat, the ancient Like many of the destinations fea- city of Bagan is a site composed of over tured on this list, Bagan is under threat. BAGAN, MYANMAR 2,000 well-preserved temples and pagodas According to UNESCO, the site lies in an ranging from the 11th to 13th centuries. active earthquake zone and suffered from While unrest in the West of Myanmar has more than 400 earthquakes between the led some to shun the Southeast Asian turn of the 20th century and 1975. In July country in recent years, Bagan remains a of 1975, a massive earthquake caused must-visit location for history buffs and severe damage to more than half of the those interested in the Buddhist faith. archeological and religious site’s important Set roughly 145 kilometers south structures. According to the publication of Mandalay, along the banks of the Irrawaddy, a 6.8 magnitude quake struck Irrawaddy River, Bagan was once the vi- Bagan in August 2016 and damaged al- brant heart of the Pagan Empire and a cos- most 400 pagodas. mopolitan center associated with religious, scientific and literary studies. The city

THE PLAIN OF JARS, LAOS ocated off the beaten track in large, stone urns. While some of these Central Laos, the Plain of Jars is roughly 2,000-year-old jars are small Lfascinating for lovers of both con- enough that an adult can glance inside temporary and ancient history. While the with ease, others are as tall as three me- famous stone jars that dot the site are ters, with a one-meter width. indeed very, very old, this destination was Most tour groups to the Plain of also a flash point during the Vietnam War Jars – which has been hailed by some and saw heavy bombing by the US Air as Southeast Asia’s answer to Force during the ‘Secret War.’ Signs of Stonehenge – visit Site 1, Site 2 the conflict are still visible, and folks living and Site 3. While the trails at the near the archeological site have found main tourist areas of the three creative ways to repurpose bombs and aforementioned jar sites are shell fragments in their homes. relatively safe, wandering off But while the recent conflict history of the path here is strong dis- 46 the area is indeed interesting, the ancient, couraged: The Plain of Jars Iron Age megaliths that cover the plains was a US Air Force dump- COVER STORY COVER landscape of the Xiangkhoang Plateau ing ground for over 260 are the chief reason for a visit to the Plain million cluster bombs – of Jars. making it the world’s most Spread out over the rolling hills that bombed place – and unex- surround the Xiangkhoang provincial plored ordinance is still a capital of Phonsavan are 90 different sites real problem in the area. altogether composed of roughly 2,500 FOR THE HISTORY BUFFS STORY COVER GANSU, CHINA 47 he rumored landing place of a lost murals and statues) that was made over Roman legion over 2,000 years a period spanning roughly 1,000 years. Tago (read more about this fascinat- Located near the Mogao Grottoes, ing – albeit unlikely – story by scanning the Old Silk Road oasis city of Dunhuang the QR code below right), China’s Gansu is a certified history-buff hotspot. province is home to a myriad of archeo- Checking out Crescent Lake and its sur- logical sites from the days of the Old Silk rounding dunes are a must, as is Yumen Road. For one, the province plays host to Pass and Yangguan Pass, both ancient the far western end of the Great Wall fortifications. and the nearby ruins of Jiayuguan Other worthwhile destinations include Pass, both of which are bucket the vast reaches of the Gobi Desert, the list-worthy sites. Additionally, Rainbow Mountains, Maijishan Grottoes, the Mogao Grottoes, also re- Matisi Temple, Labrang Monastery ferred to as ‘Thousand Buddha and even Lanzhou’s Gansu Provincial Caves,’ are one of China’s Museum, which contains a vast catalogue most impressive Buddhist sites, of artifacts from the region. home to an amazing collection of religious art (including both

NANJING, CHINA or history lovers, Jiangsu province’s Confucius Temple and other ancient build- Nanjing is simply one of those places ings at the heart of the city, as well as the Fyou just have to visit. The city, which Ming City Wall and Qinhuai River nearby, was historically referred to as ‘Nanking,’ Nanjing is truly a destination of cultural served as the capital for six dynasties and historical significance. and has been inhabited for at We recommend planning to spend at least 5,000 years. least one day wandering around Purple Situated along the Mountain, which is home to Ming Xiaoling Yangtze River, several Mausoleum, the Tomb of Sun Quan key historical attrac- and the wildly popular Dr. Sun Yat-sen tions can be found Mausoleum. Visitors are also encour- throughout the aged to check out the Nanjing Massacre city, including Memorial Hall, a sobering place that puts important sites into perspective the horrors of war and the and relics from suffering the Chinese people endured at the Ming the hands of Imperial Japan. Dynasty, as Discover Nanjing’s history with an well as some awesome travel package that is available of China’s for purchase right now! For just RMB849 most popular per night, you’ll get to stay in one of four tourist spots. boutique hotels in the city, each themed With the according to a particular era in Nanjing’s history. To learn more, scan the QR code. FOOD, DRINK Battle of the Burritos & EVENTS The Inside Scoop on the PRD’s Big, Bad Burritos, p52 IN GUANGZHOU

Lychee Rose Oreos Veggie Mama P50 P57

48 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 48 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM BEER OF THE MONTH

HEMA INDIA PALE ALE Grocery Brew Galore By Ryan Gandolfo

While craft beer boasts an insane number of varieties, from chocolate stouts to macaroni and cheese pale ale (trust us, it’s a thing), sometimes we long for a classic brew with just the right amount of hops and fruity tones to keep us drinking to our heart’s content (or we can’t see, same thing right?).

e were surprised to find that exact beer stacked on the shelves of Hema supermarket, a rapidly expanding chain Wof grocery stores in the Middle Kingdom. The company has their own craft brew brand and we’ve got to admit: we’re digging it. Coming in at 4.5% ABV, Hema’s Premium IPA (RMB13.8) is a ses- sionable craft brew with fruity tones and a slightly bitter aftertaste (much less bitter than your standard Indian Pale Ale). But it still pos- sesses enough hops to send your taste buds into a frenzy. Even better, we see it pairing well with any meaty delight you prepare at home. As we mentioned with Boxing Cat’s Contender Pale Ale many moons ago, it’s a great brew for drinkers of all tastes and one that the non-craft beer crazies can certainly enjoy as well. While some may have reservations about trying grocery store branded suds, the company has built a reputation for innovation in food shopping with speedy home deliveries, automated check-out and real-time recipe ideas for products in the store. Now they can add craft beer to that list. Interested in learning more about Hema? Scan the QR code below for more info.

Hema Premium IPA is available at Hema supermarkets for RMB13.8 per bottle.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 49

GRAPE VINE

THE SCANDALOUS SCOOP WE TRY IT We’re digging: Lychee Rose Oreos

couple of plump red roses evaporating in your cookie craze to hit China’s convenience stores. WhenLychee- we and recently rose-flavored came across Oreos the are sweet the newest treat overpowers the chocolate biscuits. While the at our local 7-Eleven store, we snatched them wordmouth, lychee releasing holds a equalflavor weight so prevailing in the cookie’sthat it up with our no-longer-childlike hands and - noon snack. werename, dominated the fruit’s celebratedby sweet, sweet flavor rose. is only broughtWe’ll them be honest back toup our front: office We’re for notan after easily noticeableWhile thein the That’s first editorial bite – subsequent team was inbites Our city’s epic selection of big, bad bur- agreement that the cookies were overall good, ritos (page 52); a new gin-focused bar childhood memories of devouring whole packs and a unique and welcome change-up, every- Evening Standard (page 56); a quirky ofimpressed original Oreosby new dipped Oreo flavors. in milk Ourare notnostalgic easily one also agreed that the original Oreos are in a forgotten, not even by the thought of super- league of their own. Mary Niubi’ beer from NBeer, a Beijing- basedOreo flavor, brewery; rose the and delicious lychee; the falafel ‘Bloody wraps Who’s eating them: hipsters, moms and at Dragon Shawarma; Guangzhou getting sweet,Since artificially you already flavored know biscuits what the that chocolate taste adventure-seeking ayis cookielike flowers part ofand an tropical Oreo tastes fruit. like, we’ll focus on Price: RMB19 per box on JD.com (prices vary 71); and rumors of a new Greek food- depending on seller) focusedChina’s first-evereatery set silent to open Starbucks this month. (page taste is best summed up like this: Imagine a the cream filling, which is pink – yes, pink. The We’re done with:

The closures of Aroma Bistro, Bello Pizzeria and Ricci Creative Eats, RIP; the fact Guangzhou still doesn’t have a Tim Hortons six months after China’s

stunning lack of Father’s Day promotions lastfirst month location (a openedbig hats in off Shanghai; to the establish and the- ments that did offer deals for dads).

50 | GZ | JULY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

OLDIE BUT GOODIE Mosu Japanese Restaurant

Japanese restaurants of dubious authenticity are a dime a dozen in South China’s major cities. What is rare, however, are higher-end spots specializing in Japan’s celebrated seafood and bovine offerings. Mosu Japanese Restaurant, though, is one such place. With three locations in Foshan, one in Shenzhen and another in Guangzhou, Mosu has a hell of a following and regularly draws lineups that equal a two-hour wait for a table. Why would anyone wait that long for dinner, you ask? For Mosu’s diverse sashimi bowls (RMB41-78) and sinfully-good nigiri (RMB8-20

whitefor two sauce pieces), (RMB88) all made and with is arguably fresh imported the restaurant fish. chain’s claim to fame.The Made ‘meat with volcano’ tender, comes melt-in-your-mouth topped with a raw strips egg of and beef a wrappedcreamy carefully around a mound of rice, the dish can be ordered with either egg or lobster (RMB168). Other choice menu items include the grilled

Unquestionably one of our favorite spots to dine in the PRD region,eel and Mosu fish is(RMB19-46) a must-visit and spot the for caviar-topped lovers of Japanese fried cuisine.egg (RMB16). Just be prepared to wait if you arrive during the dinner rush.

Price: RMB200-250 for two people Nearest metro: Beijing Lu (Exit B), 2 minutes’ walk

Open daily, 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-11pm; 6/F, Yuehai Yangzhonghui Mall, 168 Beijing Lu, Yuexiu District 越秀区北京路168号粤海仰忠汇六楼

CLOSING TIME Pour One Out for the Foodies

June was a hell of a month for ments also shut up shop last closures in Guangzhou, with a month (also due to issues with number of popular and storied establishments shutting their our knowledge): Aroma Bistro doors. andtheir Bello landlords Pizzeria. – to the best of First, back at the start of Aroma, which was located last month, popular Guangzhou in Tianhe district, shut up shop restaurant Ricci Creative Eats near the end of last month and announced that they would will be fondly remembered cease operations from June 9. A WeChat statement published by chips and friendly, welcoming the eatery notes that the Ricci servicefor their courtesy outstanding of proprietor fish ‘n’ team was unable to reach an Samantha Chan. We hope to see agreement with PoPark Mall, Aroma Bistro resurface some- which is where the eatery had where else in the future! And what can we say about years. beenWhile located the for news the of past Ricci’s five to the fallen’ that hasn’t already departure from the Guangzhou beenour last said? restaurant Famous infor this delicious ‘ode F&B scene was undoubtedly sad for fans of the brand, the Bello had a cult following in team behind the haunt will al- Guangzhou– like, really and delicious will be – dearly pizzas, legedly be back in 2020 with an missed by the city’s cheesy-pie exciting new brand. Stay tuned! lovers. In addition to Ricci, two Farewell to all three spots, other well-known establish- we will not soon forget thee!

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JULY 2019 | GZ | 51 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE BATTLE OF THE BURRITOS The Inside Scoop on the PRD’s Big, Bad Burritos By Matthew Bossons, Ryan Gandolfo, Phoebe Kut, Tristin Zhang

Both Guangzhou and Shenzhen have seen a real uptick in the number of Mexican and, more appropriately (in most cases), Tex-Mex restaurants. This means more tacos, burritos and nachos for the fine people of the PRD, which is unquestionably a good – and long overdue – development in both cities’ food scenes. To celebrate, we’ve decided to profile five of Guangzhou and Shenzhen’s most notable burritos – as decided by our Tex-Mex-lovin’ editorial team.

GAIL’S GUANGZHOU

Known around town for their Americana-focused menu, Gail’s does burritos, and boy-oh-boy are they good. In many ways more reminiscent of a taquito than your standard 3-inch thick California-style burrito, each order of Gail’s ground beef burritos (RMB85) comes with three pieces. Stuffed with ground beef, green peppers, onions, rice and refried beans, the three tortilla-wrapped burritos are accompanied by both salsa and sour cream. We found the meal very filling (likely due to the fact that Gail’s does not skimp out on meat) and an authentic take on America’s not-so-authentic take on Mexican cuisine.