© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Kimberleyaustralia.Com/Destination-Red-Centre BACK to INDEX

Except as permitted by the Copyright Act 1968, no part of Destination Red Centre (“this book”) may in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or any other means be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or be broadcast or transmitted without the prior permission in writing of the author, Monica Coleman.

That means you may NOT multiply and pass on this guide or any part of it to others. It is unethical to do so anyway. I have put a lot of work into producing this guidebook. It would be unfair to steal that from me and give it away to someone.

(Note that section 43C of the Copyright Act does allow you to print this guide for your own personal use.)

Disclaimer ______

All information in Destination Red Centre (“this book”) is provided as a general guide only. I, the author, Monica Coleman, do not express or imply anything regarding the accuracy or reliability of this information or its suitability for a particular purpose.

I have made every effort to ensure the information contained within this book is correct and I expressly disclaim any liability or responsibility for the accuracy of the information in this book or for any loss, injury or inconvenience experienced by any person using this book.

It is your responsibility to confirm the currency, validity and suitability of all information I offer.

I DO NOT MAKE ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, REPRESENTATIONS OR ENDORSEMENTS WHATSOEVER (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE) WITH REGARD TO THE BOOK, THE MATERIALS, ANY PRODUCTS, INFORMATION OR SERVICE PROVIDED THROUGH THE BOOK, OR ANY SERVICES LISTED THEREIN, AND I WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY COST OR DAMAGE ARISING EITHER DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY FROM THE USE OF THIS BOOK.

Contents PART ONE: PLANNING INFORMATION...... 5 Chapter 1: ABOUT THE POCKET GUIDE ...... 5 Chapter 2: HOW TO USE THIS BOOK ...... 11 Abbreviations used...... 12 Chapter 3: THE RED CENTRE AT A GLANCE ...... 14 Routes in the guide...... 15 Chapter 4: WEATHER, CLIMATE & THE BEST TIME TO VISIT ...... 22 When to go ...... 23 Chapter 5: GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION ...... 25 Getting there...... 25 Getting Around ...... 26 Facilities/Costs ...... 26 Visitor Information Centres ...... 27 Internet resources ...... 28 Chapter 6: CAMPING & ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS IN THE RED CENTRE ...... 29 Free bush camping ...... 29 National parks camping ...... 29 Commercial camp grounds ...... 30 Cabins ...... 30 Self-contained units ...... 30 Backpackers ...... 30 B&Bs...... 30 Hotels / motels / resorts...... 30 Chapter 7: TAKING CARE OF THE ENVIRONMENT...... 31 Chapter 8: DRIVING IN THE RED CENTRE ...... 33 My ten golden rules ...... 33 Where can I take a 2WD vehicle? ...... 33 4WD vehicles ...... 34 How much experience do you need? ...... 34 Driving rules ...... 35 Chapter 9: AUSSIE SLANG ...... 36 Chapter 10: ALICE SPRINGS...... 38 Getting oriented ...... 38 PART TWO: DETAILED GUIDE SAMPLE ...... 40 Route 1: STUART HWY NORTH: From the SA Border to Alice Springs ...... 40 3

Part A: SA/NT border to Rainbow Valley turnoff ...... 42 Part B: Rainbow Valley turnoff to Alice Springs ...... 46 Route 3: RED CENTRE WAY: West MacDonnells, Kings Canyon, Uluru & Kata Tjuta .... 49 Part A: Alice Springs to Glen Helen ...... 51 Final words about the Pocket Guide ...... 56

PART ONE: PLANNING INFORMATION

Chapter 1: ABOUT THE POCKET GUIDE ______

hank you for downloading “The Red Centre Pocket Guide”. I wrote this booklet to help you in the initial planning stages of your Red Centre holiday. I hope it will give T you a good overview of the area and get you excited about what there is to be discovered in this popular part of Australia. If you like what you read you may like to get the full, detailed guide, “Destination Red Centre – an Insider’s Guide”. The Red Centre The Red Centre evokes images of the outback and so it should. It’s remote, colourful and full of surprises. And it’s Red. There are red cliffs, red sands and even red roos (kangaroos). And there’s no disputing that it’s in the Centre of Australia. It’s a vast area of over 500,000 sqkm. Some people expect that there will be nothing in the centre of Australia. That couldn’t be further from the truth. There are stunning national parks featuring awe inspiring landscapes. I’ll bet you’ve heard of famous places like Uluru, Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) and Kings Canyon. They are truly magnificent and deserve to be famous. But there’s a whole lot more on offer that you may not know about. In this pocket guide I’ll try to answer some of your questions and help you to decide that the Red Centre is a “must- see” destination for you. In the full guide, I’ll tell you even more, including how to find secluded waterholes where kangaroos, native birds and other wildlife come to drink. I’ll show you places where you can camp for free under the brilliant starry sky. I’ll help you choose which of the many walks to do in the national parks. I’ll let you know how to get the most out of visiting Aboriginal communities and help you soak up their 40,000 year old culture. I’ll show you the must-see highlights but, most importantly, I’ll satisfy your adventurous streak and take you off-the-beaten-track to some special places not many people get to experience.

The road to Haasts Bluff 5

Who wrote this pocket guide? My name is Monica Coleman. From a young age I have had a love affair with the great Australian outdoors, enjoying walking, kayaking, snow skiing, rock climbing, mountain biking and capturing images through photography. As a child I grew up in the bush and was always outside exploring. It was hard to keep me indoors! My first career saw me teaching Physical Education and Outdoor Education so I could be outside as much as possible. Ten years later, a change of career saw me organising the largest trade exhibition for the snow and outdoors industry in the southern hemisphere. Sounds like a lot of work and it was, but I managed to get the work done in about six months of the year and spent the rest of the time on the snow or clinging to a rock face somewhere wild. Then about 25 years ago my husband, Phil, and I started our own walking holiday company, offering trips to destinations all over Australia. We became guides and spent months at a time leading people through some of our favourite destinations, including the Red Centre of course! I completed the Uluru Kata Tjuta Knowledge for Tour Guides course at Charles Darwin University in Alice Springs. This most certainly does not make me an expert. However, I will happily share some of what I have learned doing that course, as well as what I have seen and experienced in my travels. In the Destination Red Centre guide I’ll share my knowledge about the first Aboriginal people, their living philosophy called the “Tjukurpa” and their strong connection to the land. I’ll also explain what happened when white man arrived – the good and the not-so-good. Their culture was changed forever and various governments set out to right the “wrongs” that had been done to the indigenous people – once again, some successful and some not. I’ll give you information on how the Aboriginal people live today and how you can go and visit their communities, armed with enough knowledge to have a safe, enjoyable and informative time.

Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) During the years we ran the walking company, we travelled extensively, always on the lookout for new trips. However, we had to stay on good roads where we could take a mini bus, so 4WD tracks were off the agenda. We often used to see these tracks in our travels and we swore we would be back one day (without customers) to explore them too! It was time to 6

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Chapter 1: About the Pocket Guide sell the business and think about retirement, which really was just another way of saying it was time to get that off road vehicle and go bush. We sold the business in 2014 and did just that. Having travelled to the Red Centre numerous times over the past 20 years, I was very aware that there was no comprehensive guide book available that covered the area well. There are some excellent field guides on the geology, flora and fauna as well as interesting books on the history of the region. There are guidebooks for the Northern Territory but they don’t give you the necessary detail. Nothing gives a step by step guide to everything there is to see and do in this hugely diverse area. So I jumped at the chance when Birgit Bradtke asked me to write a Destination Red Centre guide. Birgit has written two excellent guide books in this series – Destination Kimberley and Destination Top End. I have used both of her books and found them to be invaluable in my trip planning, and whilst on the road. I’m not Birgit; I have my own style and way of writing but essentially we share a similar philosophy on what makes a great guide book. This project forced me to really get to know the place much more than a tourist does. It forced me down every little dirt road and track to see what was there. I climbed the mountains, learned heaps about the indigenous culture and met numerous fascinating people along the way. I had a ball researching and writing the guide, along with Phil who did the lion’s share of the driving. We had a lot of laughs along the way as well. I remember the young Italian couple arriving into our very remote campsite at Tower Rock, many hours after dark. I guess the light from our campfire showed them the way. They were in a “Wicked Camper” which was quite unsuitable for the terrain they were in. They were armed with a tourist sketch map and asked if they were on the main road to Alice Springs! Then there was the time that a couple of German girls were stopped before a river crossing on Binns Track. We asked if they needed some help and they said they were scared and didn’t know what to do. I said to put it in 4WD and go through after us. They asked us “What is 4WD?” Odd, given that they were driving a well-equipped 4WD car! With the information I’ve included in the Destination Red Centre guide, you should be well-prepared, know what to do and avoid getting yourself into trouble.

Monica and Phil walking in Palm Valley 7

Please keep an eye open for us on the road and say “G’day”! We travel all over Australia with our Landcruiser and off road camper trailer, always with the kayaks on the roof as you never know when the opportunity will arise for a paddle along the way. We still love to go walking so you’ll see that I’ve included all the walks you can do in the Red Centre in the Destination Red Centre guide and help you to choose the best ones for you. I’ve always had an interest in native flowers and trees and I’ll help you to identify some of them along your travels. I also have a passion for cooking, particularly Asian food. I’ll let you know the best places to buy the ingredients you’ll need, and I recommend you keep an eye on the newsletters too as I’ll put up a camp oven recipe every now and then. How the guide is laid out There is just so much to see and do in the Red Centre that I decided the easiest way to present it to you is in seven driving routes. These routes all start in Alice Springs so it is easy for you to combine several of them into longer trips. I explain how to do that a little further down in this Pocket Guide. Creating these seven routes means that I have been able to include everything that is worthwhile seeing and doing so you can be sure that you won’t miss out on anything. I’ve made it easy for you by including odometer (trip meter) readings. There are numerous optional side-trips along the way as well. And, just in case you don’t have a lot of time, you’ll see that I have given “star” icons to the things you simply shouldn’t miss. Of course this includes the famous attractions like Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon, the West MacDonnell Ranges etc. But it also includes some special gems that you may not have found on your own, such as Roma Gorge, Birthday Waterhole, Eringa Waterhole, Redbank Gorge and much more.

Rainbow Valley

What I’m giving you in this pocket guide This booklet is NOT a detailed guide. It is, however, a preview of what you can expect from my full guide, “Destination Red Centre – an Insider’s Guide”, which is available at http://kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre.

What I am giving you in this Pocket Guide is about half of the Introduction / General Information section as well as full details of one of the seven touring routes and a short look at another one. I’ve loved giving you that and I hope that this Pocket Guide will whet your appetite and help you to see just how much there is to explore in this wonderful part of the world. I look forward to sharing a lot more with you in the full guide.

After reading the pocket guide, you should be able to decide  When the best time to visit the area is  How long you should allow for your travels  How you will travel around the area  What you will be able to see and experience on your trip

The full guide The Destination Red Centre guide contains a wealth of information to help you get the most out of your holiday.

 I share some of the history of the area so you have some knowledge when visiting historical sites  There are chapters on the flora, fauna and geology along with tips for identifying some of our unique wildlife  A night sky chapter shows you how to find the Southern Cross  I pass on my knowledge about the indigenous people and what you need to do to visit Aboriginal communities, including which communities require permits and how to obtain those permits  There’s up-to-date information on quarantine regulations so you don’t get caught taking certain fruit and vegetables across state borders  A comprehensive chapter on driving in the outback is particularly useful for those who want to try the more remote driving routes in the full guide – 4WD driving techniques, tyre pressures, daily checks, fuel, road trains, where to check road conditions, what to pack and what to do if you are bogged or broken down  The safety chapter covers communications equipment, camping, swimming and walking safety to ensure you are well prepared  There are sketch maps of all the driving routes to give you a good overview and help you to choose the best routes for you to try  Most importantly, there are detailed route descriptions that will ensure you make the most out of your holiday

In short, everything you need to have a great time!

Feedback I hope you love this booklet but if there’s something you think I can improve on, I’m always open to suggestions. Let me know if I’ve done a great job too please! Just let me know at www.kimberleyaustralia.com/DRC-feedback!

Thanks!

Monica Coleman

Glen Helen Gorge

Chapter 2: HOW TO USE THIS POCKET GUIDE ______

his guide is written in e-book format. You may be familiar with e-books, in which case you can skip this section and dive straight into the book. But for those of you who are T not familiar with e-books, here are a few tips: First of all, you need to save it to your hard drive. Look around the screen for a disk icon or where it says “Save a copy”. Click it, browse to your desktop and click save. Now you can open the e-book from your desktop and read it on your screen any time you like. Or you can print a copy and read it like any other book. The book also has some features that are designed to be used from your computer. While you are still in the planning stage of your trip this can be very handy. You will come across links in this book. Some of them work just like links on the internet, taking you to a website. Other links are internal links, and they take you to a different part of this book. The links in the Contents page are internal links. Clicking on them takes you straight to that chapter. Navigating around the pocket guide You have many options to get around this guide. You can just scroll up and down with your mouse or with the scroll bar on the right side of the screen. You can use the little arrows (at the top or bottom of the screen, depending on your version of Adobe Acrobat). You can use the links in the TOC. And, if you remember the page number you want to go to, you can type that at the top or bottom of the screen where you see the page numbers. Play around with everything a bit and see what you find most comfortable. You can also adjust the size of the text by using the plus and minus sign at the top of your screen, or by changing the percentage number that’s displayed between the plus and minus sign. And if none of this makes you feel comfortable while reading, just print the darn thing!

Devils Marbles

Abbreviations used rd road L left NT Northern Territory st street R right WA Western Australia hwy highway N north SA South Australia Ave Avenue S south kg kilogram Tce Terrace E east psi pounds per square inch km kilometre W west SC self-contained m metre sqkm square kilometre Icons used

Free camp Picnic facilities

National Parks camp (fee) Campfires

Commercial camp Drinking water

Accommodation WIFI available

Dining Walking, easy

Groceries Walking, more challenging

Fuel (diesel & unleaded / Opal) Star - don’t miss this!

Toilets Note: All places in this guide that sell fuel have diesel and unleaded (or Opal which is suitable for use in unleaded cars).

Serpentine Gorge Lookout

Chapter 3: THE RED CENTRE AT A GLANCE ______

et’s have a brief tour around the Red Centre to get you oriented. It’s obviously in the centre of the country so that’s an easy start. Most of it lies in the Northern Territory L (NT), with a couple of the routes I will tell you about crossing the borders into South Australia (SA) and Western Australia (WA).

The largest city is Alice Springs and it’s located in the southern end of the NT. The area’s major road is the Stuart Hwy. It starts in Port Augusta in the south (near Adelaide) and travels via the opal mining town of Coober Pedy to Alice Springs. It then heads north via the Red Centre’s only other town, Tennant Creek, and on to Katherine and Darwin in the north. In the full guide I have included 7 different routes that you can take, together with numerous side-trips. There are a lot of options along the way so your trip can be as easy or as adventurous as you want it to be. You can see a rough sketch map of the routes below (this is for orientation only and shouldn’t be used for navigation). In the full guide I have also included sketch maps for each of the routes.

Routes in the guide

Route 1: Stuart Hwy North from the SA border to Alice Springs. 283 km plus 86km of side-trips (1-2 days). Easy, sealed all the way. Route 2: Stuart Hwy South from Threeways to Alice Springs. 515km plus 58km of side-trips (2-3 days). Easy, sealed all the way. Route 3: Red Centre Way including Uluru, Kata Tjuta & Kings Canyon. 1218 km plus 1 35 km of side-trips (5-10 days) .Easy, mostly sealed to Darwin with some 4WD sections. Three Ways Route 4: West MacDonnell Ranges Loop. 425km plus 265km of side-trips (3-5 days). Mostly easy sealed roads, plus 4WD side-trips. Route 5: Binns Track North via the East MacDonnells to Tennant Creek. 871 km plus 1 84 km of side-trips (5-7 days). Moderate driving on 4WD tracks most of the way. Route 6: Old Ghan & Binns Track Loop. 1004 km plus 198 km of side-trips (5-7 days). Remote 5 driving on 4WD tracks, experience necessary. 2 Route 7: Western Outback Loop. 1527 km plus 1 0 km of side-trips (6-7 days). Remote driving on 4WD tracks, experience necessary.

Alice Springs

3 1 Uluru/Ayers Rock

Kulgera

to Adelaide

ll of the routes are centred on Alice Springs, and are described in a generally anti- clockwise direction. That means that you can piggy back one loop off another. There A are many side-trips described as well. Route 1: Stuart Hwy North from the SA border to Alice Springs 283km plus 86km of side-trips. Allow 1-2 days. Easy, sealed all the way except for two optional side-trips, one of which is best with a 4WD. This route starts at the SA border near Kulgera and it’s the quickest and most direct route to get from the southern states to Alice Springs. If you’re coming from Adelaide, Kulgera is 1270km on a good sealed road, so I would allow 2 days for that, or take a bit longer and explore the opal mining town of Coober Pedy on the way. From Kulgera the road is sealed all the way to Alice Springs and has several quality roadhouses along the route that provide fuel, meals, accommodation and camping. You can easily drive this section in a day but if you can allow 2 days you can do the side-trips. There’s a side-trip on a good quality dirt rd to Henbury Meteorite Craters where you can do a short walk amongst the large holes left behind by ancient meteorites. Plus there’s another side-trip to Rainbow Valley, one of my favourite sunset viewing places in the Centre, so if you can allow a night to camp here that would be a bonus. Route 2: Stuart Hwy South from Threeways to Alice Springs 515km plus 58km of side-trips. Allow a minimum of 2-3 days. Easy, sealed all the way except for two optional side-trips that can be reached by 2WD. This route starts at Threeways, which is just north of Tennant Creek (and where the road to Queensland starts). If you’re coming from Darwin in the north it’s 963km on a good sealed road to Threeways, which you could drive in one very long day. However, it is better to allow some more time and stop to explore the Nitmiluk Gorge National Park (Katherine Gorge) and the hot springs and Mataranka on your way south. If you are coming from Queensland there are many routes you can take to Mt Isa and then it’s another 633km to Threeways. From Threeways the road is sealed all the way to Alice Springs and has several quality roadhouses along the route that provide fuel, meals, accommodation and camping. There are also plenty of interesting side-trips including the Pebbles, Tennant Creek’s many attractions, two historic telegraph stations, the Devils Marbles and Native Gap Conservation Reserve. There are several excellent Aboriginal art galleries to visit and the Red Centre farm where you can buy mango products including mango wine. And don’t forget the Big Man at Aileron Roadhouse(see photo). All the side-trips are short and can be reached by 2WD. So you could drive from Threeways to Alice Springs in a day but then you’d miss out on most of the side-trips. The Stuart Hwy is

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Chapter 3: The Red Centre at a Glance just a highway and a quick way to get somewhere – you won’t regret it if you take the time to explore along the way. Route 3: Red Centre Way 1218km plus 135km of side-trips. Allow a minimum of 5-10 days. Easy, mostly sealed with some 4WD sections. Some of the side-trips can be done by 2WD but to do the entire circuit you will need a 4WD. This is undoubtedly the quintessential trip that should be on every traveller’s bucket list. It’s a circuit out of Alice Springs, heading to the west, and is packed with highlights. The Red Centre Way begins with the magnificent and very popular West MacDonnell Ranges, and the main road is sealed for the first 200km or so. There are waterholes, lookouts, gorges and heaps of great walks to do. There are also a couple of excellent 4WD side-trips that will get you right away from the tourists. Next comes about 150km of rough, corrugated road to get to Kings Canyon and you’ll need a 4WD for this. The best way to explore this fabulous national park is on foot, with my favourite being the Kings Canyon Rim Walk. From here it’s a sealed road for the rest of the loop. Uluru is undoubtedly the major highlight for most travellers. You can drive, walk or cycle around this massive monolith and then relax with a glass of bubbles while watching the sun set. Close by is Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) and it too offers a tremendous walk amongst the huge domes. Back on the Stuart Hwy it’s just 200km back to Alice Springs. As I mentioned you’ll need a 4WD to complete the entire loop as one short section is on a rough, corrugated dirt road. But don’t worry if you don’t have a 4WD as I will tell you another way you can see the icons of the Red Centre with a 2WD. It is a longer drive but it is all on sealed roads. From Alice Springs, go south on the Stuart Hwy for about 200km to Erldunda (use the Route 1 notes to help). Then take the Lasseter Hwy to visit Uluru and Kata Tjuta as well as a side-trip to Kings Canyon (use the Route 3 notes to help). If you also do Route 4 you’ll be able to get to most of the main attractions in the West MacDonnell Ranges as well. That’s the real icons covered! Route 4: West MacDonnell Ranges Loop 425km plus 265km of side-trips. Allow a minimum of 3-5 days. Mostly easy sealed roads. Some optional side-trips can be reached by 2WD but you’ll need a 4WD to do them all. Nobody should miss the West MacDonnells as they have so much variety to offer. The main part of this loop is sealed all the way and it’s basically the same as the first part of Route 3, the Red Centre Way. The route begins with the magnificent and very popular West MacDonnell Ranges with its many waterholes, lookouts, gorges and heaps of great walks to do. Highlights include the sheer walls of Standley Chasm, great swimming in Ellery Creek Big Hole, the stunning Ormiston Gorge hike, watching the sunset at Glen Helen and challenging yourself on a climb of Mt Sonder. From here we continue via Gosse Bluff meteorite crater site to Hermannsburg. Both Hermannsburg and nearby Wallace Rockhole are great opportunities for your first visit to an Aboriginal community and I’ll tell you later on exactly how to do that and what to expect. On a side-trip to Palm Valley you can enjoy stunning walks to high vantage points over the Finke River. Another side-trip to Boggy Hole will offer challenging driving and the reward of 17

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Chapter 3: The Red Centre at a Glance remote camping. Both of these require a 4WD and Boggy Hole is really only suitable for experienced drivers. The last leg of this route takes an easy 4WD track through Owen Springs Reserve, or you can simply continue on the highway back to Alice Springs. Route 5: Binns Track North 871km plus 184km of side-trips. Allow a minimum of 5-7 days. Easy driving on sealed roads through the East MacDonnell Ranges. Then moderate driving on 4WD tracks for most of the rest of the way. If you only have a 2WD, don’t worry because you can drive an ordinary car all the way from Alice Springs to Trephina Gorge and it’s definitely worth doing this bit. From Alice Springs, the route heads east through the East MacDonnell Ranges. It’s less touristy and less crowded than the West MacDonnells. A major highlight here is Trephina Gorge, offering outstanding hiking and fabulous camping. It’s one of my all-time favourites and if you like walking you can easily spend a couple of days there. Now the road changes to a good quality dirt road and passes through huge outback stations (farms). Some of the stations have opened their properties to tourists and offer fuel, supplies, meals, accommodation, camping and sometimes local tours. It’s a special experience to sit around a campfire chatting with the local workers. My favourites include Hale River Homestead where you can get a real cup of coffee and Murray Downs Station where you can camp on a welcome green lawn. There are also Aboriginal communities that you can visit on short side-trips. They are great spots to restock with fuel, water and supplies and have a look at how the indigenous people live. No permits are required to visit the communities on this loop. The driving becomes a little more adventurous as we head through remote countryside to rugged Tower Rock. You should definitely plan on camping here for the night. You can explore the rocks, look for agile rock wallabies leaping all over the place, climb to the summit (see photo) and enjoy a marvellous sunset view. Not long after, the road changes into an interesting, windy, scenic route through the mountains. A major highlight of the route is the Davenport Ranges National Park. You can expect remote camping at delightful waterholes in this fairly new park. There are short walks, abundant birdlife and just that special feeling of being in the middle of the outback. 18

Eventually you’ll reach the Stuart Hwy where you can go north for 87km to Tennant Creek and Threeways or south for 369km to Alice Springs. Route 6: Old Ghan & Binns Track Loop 1004km plus 198km of side-trips. Allow a minimum of 5-7 days. Remote driving on 4WD tracks, experience necessary.

Now we’re getting into more remote, more challenging driving terrain. It’s dirt pretty much all the way and you’ll need a high clearance 4WD. The route starts in Alice Springs and quickly heads off along the Old Ghan Route where you’ll see historic railway sidings and other relics. Interpretive signs show you how tough life would have been for the early explorers and workers building the rail line.

Next is the excellent side-trip to the much-photographed Chambers Pillar. A short walk brings you up close and personal with this giant rock pillar and the sunsets are amazing. I recommend you camp here for a night to truly appreciate the place.

After visiting Finke Aboriginal community we leave the Old Ghan route and travel across remote station properties. My favourite camp spot along here is Eringa Waterhole where the birdlife is prolific. If you have a kayak or canoe you’ll enjoy a paddle on this surprisingly large waterhole. If not, walk around it for a different perspective.

Across the border into SA you’ll visit Dalhousie Springs in the Witjira National Park. This huge, deep waterhole is always very warm (some would say hot) and is a great place to soak weary muscles.

Old Andado Homestead is another highlight, with the historic house still set up as it was when the owner left. Often, caretakers are there and they’ll bake a batch of scones for a small donation.

Now it’s onto Binns Track via the Aboriginal community of Santa Teresa where visitors are made very welcome. The track winds its way through scenic mountain ranges back to Alice Springs. Route 7: Western Outback Loop 1527km plus 10km of side-trips. Allow a minimum of 6-7 days. Remote driving on 4WD tracks, experience necessary. This is the most remote and challenging route in this guide. It’s also the longest. You’ll need a high clearance 4WD and some remote travelling experience. The route travels largely through Aboriginal lands and is very scenic for almost all of the way. There are several remote Aboriginal communities you can visit including three that offer excellent art centres. It is usually possible to see the artists at work and always possible to buy some genuine, local artwork. At Giles Meteorological Station you can learn about weather forecasting and watch weather balloons being released to gather data. There’s a short side-trip to Lasseter’s Cave where you can learn the fascinating story of the legendary Lasseter’s Reef gold discovery.

The route continues past Kata Tjuta and Uluru giving you a chance to explore these must-see places if you haven’t already done so on the Red Centre Way. The final leg of this route takes you via a dirt back road that passes close to Mt Conner and ends up on the Stuart Hwy near the SA border. Some route combinations to consider  If you’re travelling from the south through to the north, consider this. Take the Stuart Hwy North to Alice Springs. Do the Red Centre Way finishing back at Alice. Then take Binns Track North to Threeways, from where you could continue north to the Top End or Kimberley areas.  Another option for those travelling from the south to the north and who prefer to get off the beaten track is as follows. Take the Stuart Hwy North to Alice Springs. Do the Old Ghan & Binns Track Loop. Next do the Western Outback Loop. Then Binns Track North to Threeways.  If you’re travelling from the north to the south and don’t have heaps of time, here’s a good option to consider. Take the Stuart Hwy South to Alice Springs. Do the Red Centre Way. Then tack on the Old Ghan & Binns Track Loop if time permits.  If you’re really tight for time take the Stuart Hwy to Alice Springs then do the Red Centre Way. Is there a way you can do it all? That’s a tough ask. There are a lot of roads and tracks to choose from. If you do want to do the lot then you will need to do a bit of back tracking, but not too much. Think of it as an opportunity to restock in Alice Springs. So, if you’ve got 4-6 weeks to spare, here’s a way you can cover it all and get some variety along the way:

 Coming from the south (Adelaide / Port Augusta), take the Stuart Hwy North to Alice Springs  Take the West MacDonnell Ranges Loop finishing to Alice  Do the Old Ghan & Binns Track Loop, arriving back in Alice  Do Binns Track North up to Tennant Creek  Take the Stuart Hwy South back to Alice  Do the Red Centre Way then back north on the Stuart Hwy to Alice  Do the Western Outback Loop

Chapter 4: WEATHER, CLIMATE & THE BEST TIME TO VISIT ______

he Red Centre is located in an arid zone, as is 70% of Australia. An arid area is defined as having insufficient rainfall for the regular production of crops. It’s dry, T doesn’t rain often and the humidity is low. The area has a typical four season weather pattern like the southern states, but the transition between the seasons is quite subtle. The temperatures are quite predictable. It will be extremely hot in the summer months with temperatures soaring over 40 degrees. In winter the day time temperatures are mild and drop to near zero at night. Frost regularly occurs in winter.

An unexpected rainstorm can make the roads impassable Rainfall is not predictable and can fall at any time of the year. In some years there will be no rainfall at all. Most downpours occur in the summer months, often after long, dry periods. When the rain does fall, it will frequently come with spectacular thunderstorms and flash flooding that will fill up usually dry river beds and close many roads. Imagine knee deep water flowing down Todd Mall in Alice Springs – it happens! In the first 2 weeks of 2017, Tennant Creek had 75% of its average annual rainfall! Even a small amount of rain will make dirt roads slippery and potentially impassable. The good news is that the roads usually dry out very quickly.

When to go

May to August The cooler months of May to August are my favourite time to visit the Red Centre. But I should confess that’s because I don’t like hot weather and love to be outdoors hiking. The day time temperatures are usually mild, the sun is shining, the sunsets are superb and the chances of rain are less than the hotter months. It’s a fabulous time of year to be active in the outdoors. Bring the sunhat and sunscreen. The nights can get very cold so make sure you are prepared with warm clothing and bedding. The occasional frosty night has the benefit of killing off the bush flies, which is a real bonus. Accommodation prices will be higher in the peak season months of June to August and the major tourist spots can get very busy. Visit the major tourist spots during the day time and this guide will help you find secluded campsites off-the-beaten-track. September & October This is still a nice time to visit. The weather starts warming up by September and there are still a lot of tourists about. Whilst the nights are more pleasant than winter, the days sometimes get quite warm. If there's been rain the wildflowers will be out in force, but so will the pesky flies. November to February November is starting to get too hot to enjoy a visit, unless you want to see the Red Centre from the windows of your air conditioned car. That said, it’s a dry heat with little humidity. It will be very hot though with temperatures into the high 30s and low 40s. December to February in particular is much too hot for an enjoyable outdoors holiday experience. The flies will eat you alive! Some attractions, accommodations and restaurants will close for part of this time. Learn from the locals. You’ll find them in the air conditioned shopping malls, the library or at the swimming pool at this time of year! March & April Travelling in the Red Centre in March is a bit of a lottery. Things start to cool down a little in April although there can still be a lot of hot days and the pesky flies are still being pesky. It’s best if you can wait till at least May but plenty of people still travel during this time. Average Temperatures & Rainfall in the Red Centre All the temperatures in the table below are in degrees Celsius and rainfall is in millimetres. Averages are only a rough guideline, as what really happens on the ground can differ from year to year. However, you can see some patterns. Heading north out of Alice Springs and the temperature is generally higher, both during the day and at night. The further north you go the more you’ll come under the influence of the Top End (northern NT) weather patterns with its distinctive wet and dry seasons. There is likely to be quite a bit more rain in the summer months and greater humidity. Heading west to Uluru and beyond doesn’t make a great deal of difference to the averages. Heading south to Finke and beyond, the weather tends to be a bit warmer and drier.

Alice Springs Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average daily max 35.9 35.0 32.3 27.5 23.0 19.7 19.5 22.9 27.0 31.1 33.9 35.5 temperature Average night min 20.9 20.1 17.1 12.2 7.7 4.9 3.7 16.0 9.6 14.4 17.6 19.9 temperature Average monthly 42.7 41.4 33.1 16.4 16.1 14.6 13.6 10.4 9.4 20.1 25.1 36.3 rainfall

Useful weather websites The Bureau of Meteorology is the official weather forecaster in Australia and they have an excellent website. www.bom.gov.au I also find the Willy Weather website quite useful. Simply type in where you are and it fetches the information off the Bureau for you. www.willyweather.com.au

Chapter 5: GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION ______

Getting there

Visa Information Nearly every non-Australian needs a Visa to enter Australia. It is usually quick and easy to obtain. See the Department of Immigration and Multicultural Affairs website: www.border.gov.au Flying If you want to fly to the Red Centre, the only real option is to fly to Alice Springs or Ayers Rock. I think it makes more sense to fly into Alice Springs and hire a car from there. Alice Springs has more service options to choose from and they are a lot cheaper than at Yulara / Ayers Rock. Qantas offers daily direct flights to Alice Springs from Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Perth, Darwin and Cairns. There are also four flights a week from Brisbane. www.qantas.com.au Virgin Australia offers direct flights to Alice Springs from Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide and Darwin on 3 days a week. www.virginaustralia.com Alice Wanderer Airport Transfers provides a door-to-door shuttle service for all flights into Alice Springs. Ph: 1800 722 111. There are also plenty of taxis to get you into town. Jetstar offers daily direct flights to Uluru (Ayers Rock) from Avalon (about 1hr from Melbourne, Sydney and Perth. www.jetstar.com.au Driving Driving can be a very attractive option for those who have the time. Car hire details can be found in the Alice Springs chapter of the full guide. Driving from Adelaide It’s an easy highway drive of about 1530km. You can cover this distance in 2-4 days or take a bit longer and do some sightseeing along the way. The section from the SA/NT border to Alice Springs is covered in the Stuart Hwy North chapter in this guide. Driving from Darwin This is also an easy highway drive of about 1500km. You can cover this distance in 2-4 days or take a bit longer and do some sightseeing along the way. The section from Threeways (near Tennant Creek) to Alice Springs is covered in the Stuart Hwy South chapter in this guide. The section from Darwin to Threeways is covered in “Destination Top End”, another guidebook in this series. By Bus Greyhound operates coach services to Alice Springs from Adelaide, Darwin and Cairns. See their website for current details on prices, passes and specials. www.greyhound.com.au

By Train You can travel to Alice Springs on the Ghan Railway. From Adelaide, the service leaves at 12.15pm on Sundays and arrives in Alice Springs at 1.45pm on the following day. From Darwin, the service leaves at 10.00am on Wednesdays and arrives in Alice Springs at 9.10am the following day. At some times of the year there are additional services. See the Great Southern Rail website. www.greatsouthernrail.com.au/trains/the-ghan Getting Around

Self Driving The best way to see the Red Centre is to have your own wheels, period. I’ve covered car hire in the Alice Springs chapter of the full guide. Public Transport You can use public transport to get to Alice Springs and Tennant Creek but that’s about it. If you don’t have a car and don’t want to hire one, you will get a much better deal by doing some tours. Tours There is quite a selection of tours available in the Red Centre, particularly out of Alice Springs and Uluru (Ayers Rock). They are mostly coach tours although there are some operators offering walking holidays, cycling trips, 4WD trips and Aboriginal cultural experiences. The best place to start is the Alice Springs Visitor Information Centre. www.discovercentralaustralia.com Facilities/Costs

Banks Alice Springs and Tennant Creek have the usual range of major banks. Banks usually open Monday-Thursday from 9:30am – 4.00pm and on Fridays from 9:30am – 5.00pm. Away from the towns there aren’t any banks, but most stations, roadhouses and Aboriginal communities accept EFTPOS and major credit cards. There aren’t very many ATMs outside of the two towns so you should always carry several hundred dollars in cash. Costs Costs in Alice Springs are comparable to major cities. Tennant Creek is more expensive. Once you leave those two towns though the costs will quickly go up. Outback stations and Aboriginal communities are in remote locations and the cost of transport is very high. Do your food shopping in Alice Springs. Try to buy enough food to do one of the routes in this book and only rely on roadhouses and Aboriginal communities for basic supplies such as bread and milk. Even then, you’ll most likely only be able to get frozen bread and UHT (long life) milk. The prices for fresh fruit and vegetables in the Aboriginal communities are sky high, which makes it easy to understand why there are so many frozen and canned products on sale. Meat prices are not too bad as they can buy it in already frozen. Treat yourself to a night or two at one of Alice Spring’s excellent restaurants. For a mid- range restaurant, expect to pay $20-$30 for a main course. The resorts at Kings Canyon and

Ayers Rock offer a range of dining options but they will be more expensive than in town. They also offer very high end dining experiences that will set you back a few hundred dollars. Fill up with fuel before leaving town – you’ll be very glad you did! Fuel prices in remote places can be up to double what they are in Alice Springs. Electricity The voltage in Australia is 220 – 240V, the same as in Europe. If you come from the US you need a converter/adapter. Our power plugs are different from the European and US plugs. We use flat, 3-pin plugs and you definitely need an adapter for any electrical devices. Phone and Internet Your mobile phone will work in Alice Springs. If you buy an Australian Telstra SIM card for it, you will get coverage along much of the Stuart Hwy and some of the remote communities. But most definitely not everywhere. Wireless internet is common in Alice Springs and Tennant Creek. There is an ongoing program to install free mobile hotspots along the Stuart Hwy and at major tourist attractions. I find that this can increase my reception by one bar, which is at least enough to send a text message. Note that public phones only operate with a Telstra PhoneAway card, NOT with coins, credit cards or standard phone cards. PhoneAway cards are available from newsagencies in towns and sometimes at outback stores. Visitor Information Centres These are a great place to pick up some free tourist maps, leaflets and tourist guides as well as learn more about the area you are visiting. They also act as a free booking service so can help you find accommodation, book a tour or onward travel. While they can assist with car hire enquiries, you’d be well advised to book your hire car well in advance as they often book out in the peak period. There are two official Visitor Information Centres in the Red Centre: Alice Springs Visitor Information Centre Corner Todd Mall & Parson St, Alice Springs Ph: (08) 8952 5800 (international +61 8 8952 5800) or 1800 645 199 www.discovercentralaustralia.com [email protected] Open Monday to Friday from 8.30am – 5.00pm and weekends from 9.30am – 4.00pm.

Tennant Creek Visitor Information Centre Located in the Battery Hill Mining Centre, Peko Rd, Tennant Creek Ph: (08) 08 8962 1281 (international +61 8 8962 1281) or 1800 500 879 www.barklytourism.com.au [email protected] Open from 8.30am to 5.00pm every day in season (shorter hours out of season).

Internet resources Travel NT is the Northern Territory Government's official tourism website for visitors to the Territory. The Alice Springs section of the Travel NT website contains maps, itineraries, travel advice and lots of other information. northernterritory.com/alice-springs-and-surrounds The Parks and Wildlife NT's website has information for those intending to walk the Larapinta Trail or visit the many National Parks in the region. www.nt.gov.au/leisure/parks- reserves/find-a-park-to-visit Tourism Central Australia is the Regional Tourism Association. It has listings for accommodation, car hire and other services for visitors to Alice Springs. It also runs the local information centre located in the middle of the Todd Mall. www.discovercentralaustralia.com The official Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park website has up to date information on visiting Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. www.parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/index.html There’s also an excellent free app called the Field Guide Northern Territory. It has great information on the birds and animals in the region.

Chapter 6: CAMPING & ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS IN THE RED CENTRE ______

Free bush camping My favourite way to experience the outback is to camp in the wild somewhere. I’ve described many such camps in this book. Some are just a patch of ground with no facilities. Others are designated sites with facilities that may include toilets, picnic shelters, fireplaces, rubbish bins or drinking water. Occasionally a national park offers free camping too. Everyone needs to do the right thing to ensure these camps remain available. Don’t camp if there’s a sign saying not to. Don’t leave any rubbish behind. Use existing fire scars if possible. National parks camping National parks in the Red Centre are managed by the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory. Before visiting a national park, you should check the national parks site to see if the park is open and if the conditions are suitable for visiting. While it is free to visit any national park in the Red Centre (except for Uluru-Kata Tjuta), there is usually a cost for camping in them. Not all allow camping. Those that do charge fees based on the standard of facilities provided. You need to pay in cash on-site; no change is provided so make sure you have the correct money. You can’t book any of these campsites in advance. The most basic of the national parks campgrounds have a low level of maintenance and may include toilets, picnic tables, BBQs and tap water. They cost $4.00 per adult per night. The next level up are well maintained and may provide toilets, showers (occasionally), rubbish bins (occasionally), picnic tables, cooking facilities, BBQs and tap water. They cost $10.00 per adult per night. Some campsites are managed commercially and their facilities and fees vary. Most cost $10.00 but several in the West MacDonnell National Park (such as Ormiston Gorge) cost more. If you are going overnight hiking on the Larapinta Trail you’ll need to pay a fee of $25.00 per person per night as well as the $4.00 camping fee. These rules apply in national parks in the Red Centre:

 Fires are only permitted in designated fire pits  Bring your own firewood; you can't collect firewood in national parks  Bins are not provided; please take your rubbish with you  Pets are not permitted in national parks  Generators are not permitted

Commercial camp grounds These are available in towns, at most roadhouses and at resorts. Most offer excellent facilities including power, flushing toilets, hot showers, laundries, camp kitchens and recreational opportunities. The costs for a campsite vary from about $15 to $40 per site, for two people. Cabins Many of the commercial camp grounds offer self-contained cabins and these are an economical choice for those travelling without camping gear. Cabins tend to have one or two bedrooms, a bathroom, kitchen, bed linen and cooking equipment. Cabins tend to cost around $95 to $175 for two people. Sometimes there will be cheaper, budget cabins available with shared bathrooms and communal kitchens. Self-contained units There are heaps of these on offer in Alice Springs. The main difference between them and cabins is that self-contained units are not located in a camping or caravan park. Prices vary hugely depending on the standard and facilities you want. Backpackers Alice Springs has a good range of backpacker accommodation, some of it with shared dormitory rooms and some with private rooms. They usually have a shared kitchen you can use. Budget for about $25 per person per night, more if you want a private room or ensuite bathroom. B&Bs Alice Springs has a few excellent B&Bs. These are usually a room or two in a private house and include either a full cooked breakfast or a self-serve continental breakfast ingredients. Prices vary upwards from $140 per room. Hotels / motels / resorts These all offer private rooms with ensuite bathrooms and a range of facilities including swimming pools, spas, tennis courts, restaurants, bars etc. Motels tend to be the cheapest with rooms from about $80 upwards. For a hotel room, expect to pay $150 or more. Resorts – well, the sky’s the limit on what they charge!

Chapter 7: TAKING CARE OF THE ENVIRONMENT ______

eave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photographs and memories. You can easily achieve that with a bit of common sense. Actually, you can achieve a whole lot L more. Why not pick up some rubbish that other thoughtless campers have left behind? You’ll often see us doing just that and we carry a large, tough bag for the purpose. I strongly believe that if people arrive at a clean campsite they are more likely to leave it clean. Fires Fuel stoves have less impact than fires. Campfires are very atmospheric but they are hard on the environment as more and more people head into the outback each year. Don’t rely on finding firewood to cook with. If you do have a fire, keep it small and use fireplaces when provided. Huge bonfires are not acceptable these days. If there are no fireplaces, look around you and see if there are other fire scars and light your fire there. If not, then dig a trench and clear all the burnable material on the fire edges for 3 metres all around. Before you leave, ensure the fire is out (cold enough to touch) and fill in the trench. Note that you're not allowed to collect firewood in national parks. Rubbish If you managed to transport it in then you can transport it out and dispose of it in rubbish bins. This includes car tyres. If you're in the bush for a long time, burn all combustible waste in your campfire. Don't bury other rubbish as there's a good chance wild dogs etc. will dig it up. People often think that fruit skins will break down naturally if left on the ground - in the case of orange peel, yes it will eventually break down but it will take a very long time and in the meantime you are leaving an unsightly mess for others to see. Toileting & washing Use toilets if they are provided. If they aren't, dig a hole and bury toilet waste and toilet paper well away from watercourses. Don’t wash dishes or yourself in or near streams and waterholes and don't use detergents in waterholes, even eco-friendly ones. If you are bush camping and want a shower, ask to pay at a caravan park or roadhouse - please don't "steal" a shower as you'll ruin it for other travellers. Erosion To minimise erosion, travel on tracks that already exist. Don't cut corners. If possible, use existing campsites so that you're not creating a fresh scar that can take years to repair itself. Private property If you have the recommended HEMA maps (see each section for details), you will have no problem working out what type of land you are on. Some land is Aboriginal land and it will be shown clearly on the maps. Some of the land you will travel through is station land (farm land). Unless there is a sign telling you to keep out, you are allowed to drive through station land on main routes passing through. That means all of the tracks mentioned in this guide that go through private land are OK to drive through. The farmers just ask that you leave gates as you find them (either open or closed).

In most cases you are allowed to camp on station land, but you need to stay close to the road. Don't camp within 1km of a homestead and don't camp near stock watering points or any station infrastructure as station animals may be too frightened to come near you and drink. Some station owners have put up signs saying “No Camping” – it’s best to obey those signs. Wildlife Don't feed wild animals as it will change their behaviour and they will come to rely on humans and stop hunting. Besides, most human food is bad for their health. Slow down when passing birds of prey feeding on road kill as they take some time to get airborne.

Chapter 8: DRIVING IN THE RED CENTRE ______

My ten golden rules 1. Get your vehicle serviced before the trip 2. Let someone know your plans 3. Check weather and road conditions regularly 4. Carry plenty of water 5. Lower your tyre pressures 6. If there's an obstacle, get out and check it out 7. If you break down don't leave your vehicle 8. Make sure you allow plenty of time for your travels 9. Know your capabilities and limitations 10. Take care and have fun! Where can I take a 2WD vehicle? If you plan to stick to the main tourist routes you can happily do this in your 2WD vehicle and still see a lot of the Red Centre’s major attractions. The Destination Red Centre guide will help you to get the best possible experience. You should be able to do the following:

 Stuart Hwy North from the SA border to Alice Springs (except for 1 side-trip) The main highlight you can get to is Henbury Meteorite Craters.

 Stuart Hwy South from Threeways near Tennant Springs to Alice Springs Highlights you can get to include the Pebbles, historic Telegraph Stations, the Devil’s Marbles and Native Gap.

 West MacDonnell Ranges Loop (except for some of the side-trips) Highlights you can get to include Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine Gorge, the Ochre Pits, Glen Helen Gorge, Ormiston Pound and the Aboriginal communities of Hermannsburg and Wallace Rockhole.

 Binns Track North (only from Alice Springs to the East MacDonnell Ranges / Ross River Homestead, not beyond) Highlights you can get to include Corroboree Rock, Emily Gap, Jessie Gap, Trephina Gorge and Ross River Homestead.

 Use the information in the Red Centre Way to visit Kings Canyon and Uluru via the sealed southern roads Highlights you can get to include Kings Canyon, Kathleen Springs, Kings Creek Station, Mt Conner Lookout, Curtin Springs Station, Yulara, Uluru and Kata Tjuta.

Please don’t take your 2WD vehicle onto 4WD tracks! When you're in the outback you'll see a lot of Aboriginal people driving 2WD cars on 4WD roads. However, their cars are pretty beaten up and don't last long. You'll see hundreds of wrecked cars littering the roadsides. They make interesting photos, but do you really want your 2WD to end up looking like that? If you are travelling around Australia in a 2WD, consider hiring a high clearance 4WD for a week or more so that you can get off the beaten track safely. 4WD vehicles If you have a 4WD you will be able to make the most out of the information in this guide. I’ve described all the best side-trips and tell you how you can enjoy some of the best bush camping spots the Red Centre has to offer. However, not all 4WDs are equal!

 Choose one with a high clearance  If you choose a well-known brand and model it will be easier to get spare parts and find someone who knows how to fix things  Make sure it has a bull bar fitted  Make sure you have strong tyres (not highway tyres)  You'll need proper recovery points (hooks or eyes) if you want people to pull you out of a bog. They are not expensive to buy and you can buy them in Alice Springs. Note that all cars come with tie down points for use when they are transported on a ship or truck - these are NOT strong enough.  Make sure you know how to drive it. Most 4WD clubs and many training providers offer 4WD courses over a couple of days, and they are well worth the time and money. How much experience do you need? You don’t need any special experience to do the routes as suggested in the “Where can I take my 2WD vehicle” section above. If you have a 4WD and don’t have any experience, start by including some easy side-trips like:

 Route 1: Stuart Hwy North. Try the side-trip to Rainbow Valley or camp at Redbank Waterhole for the night.

 Route 3: Red Centre Way. With a 4WD you can take the entire circuit. Try the side- trips to Redbank Gorge and Gosse Bluff.

 Route 4: West MacDonnell Ranges Loop. Try the side-trips to Redbank Gorge, Gosse Bluff, Palm Valley and Owen Springs Reserve.

 Route 5: Binns Track North. With a 4WD you can take the entire circuit including all side-trips except for the John Hayes Waterhole at Trephina Gorge and Ruby Gap as they require some 4WD experience. There aren’t many challenging tracks in the Red Centre, so long as the weather is dry. You may remember reading how the tracks can turn into ice-skating rinks after only a small amount of rain. Once you’ve had a bit of experience and you are ready to challenge yourself a bit more, have a go at these:

 Route 3: Red Centre Way. Try the side-trips to Birthday Waterhole and Roma Gorge.

 Route 4: West MacDonnell Ranges Loop. Try the side-trip to Boggy Hole.

 Route 5: Binns Track North. Try the side-trips to John Hayes Waterhole at Trephina Gorge and Ruby Gap.

 Route 6: Old Ghan & Binns Track Loop. Give it all a go!

 Route 7: Western Outback Loop. Give it all a go! Don’t skip visiting the Red Centre just because you haven’t got any 4WD experience. Make sure your vehicle is well prepared and that you’ve packed the right items. Start with the easier trips like the Red Centre Way or West MacDonnell Ranges Loop. Avoid side-trips and routes that indicate you need 4WD experience, at least until you clock up some experience. Travel with others if possible. Travel in the peak travel season from around May to October when there will be more travellers about so you can ask for help if necessary. Driving rules For non-Australians, you need to know that we drive on the left side of the road in Australia. We have a .05 blood alcohol limit when driving. Road rules apply even on remote outback tracks, so obey them. For more information on our road rules see the NT government’s Road Rules in the NT website. nt.gov.au/driving/safety/road-rules-in-nt What other driving information does the full guide cover? For those wanting to do the more remote driving routes, there’s heaps of information on 4WD driving techniques, tyre pressures, daily checks, fuel, road trains, where to check road conditions, what to pack and what to do if you are bogged or broken down. I’ve also included a detailed chapter on Staying Safe in the Red Centre, covering communications equipment, camping, swimming and walking safety. A list of the various walks you can do along the way is also included.

Chapter 9: AUSSIE SLANG ______

ome of our expressions, words and abbreviations might be unfamiliar to non- Australians. Interestingly, Aussies tend to shorten words, with many ending in an “ee” S sound e.g. barbeque becomes “barbie”, a can of beer is a “tinnie”, a mosquito is a “mozzie”. Aussie salute: To brush away the flies from your face. BBQ: Barbecues can be wood or gas fired. Gas barbecues at campgrounds or other tourist facilities are usually free of charge. A BBQ is a quick, social way of cooking while getting to know the neighbouring campers. Billy: A tin pot that you boil water in, usually over a campfire. Bities: Biting insects. Bogged: When your vehicle is stuck in sand or mud. Bottle shop: A shop where you can buy packaged alcohol to take away. BYO: Stands for "Bring Your Own" and means you take your own bottle of wine to a restaurant. This makes eating out much more affordable, although most restaurants charge “corkage”. This is a fee (usually per person) for them to open your bottle of wine and provide you with glasses. You generally can’t BYO beer. If you’re invited to someone’s home or campsite for a meal, it is polite to BYO (and bring a bit more than you would drink yourself so you can share it). Cab Sav: Cabernet Sauvignon wine. Cattle station: A huge expanse of land where cattle are farmed. In the US it would be called a ranch (and be tiny by comparison). Some cattle stations in Australia can have border fences of 200km long! Coldie: A cold beer. Corrugations: Continuous ridges on the surface of unsealed roads that make them look like corrugated iron. They shake your car and bones apart when driving on them. Donga: Transportable building (sometimes shipping container) that provides cheap tourist accommodation. Esky: A plastic cooler, ice box, chilly bin. Esky is actually the brand name for the first coolers available in Australia. Fair dinkum: True, real, genuine. Homestead: The heart of a cattle station. This is where the managers live, but on a large station it's more like the centre of a little village, with all the sheds and workers accommodation etc. surrounding it. 36

Licensed: Allowed to serve or sell alcohol. You can’t buy alcohol at any supermarket, service station or kiosk, as you can in many European countries. Alcohol sales are very strictly regulated in Australia. Long paddock: Wide roadsides where farmers can graze their stock during droughts. Make a quid: If someone asks you how you “make a quid”, they want to know what you do for a job. Op Shop: A shop where second hand things and clothing is sold, usually for charity. A great place to pick up a bargain as items are very cheap. Pub: A hotel or other building where you can buy and drink beer. People line up at the bar and drink there. Road train: A big truck with up to 4 trailers. They can be over 50m long. Rock cairn: A small pile of rocks, used to mark a path in the wilderness. Roo: Kangaroo. Sav blanc: Sauvignon blanc wine. Servo: A place that sells fuel for cars and trucks. Shoot through: Leave. Shout: Buy drinks for others in your group. You “shout” the next round of drinks. Slab: A carton with 24 cans of beer. Also called a “slab of tinnies”. Spag bol: Spaghetti Bolognese. Swag: A bed roll. It’s like a whole bed inside a canvas cover that can be rolled up to take with you. The bush: Anywhere that’s not in a town. Thongs: Flip flops. Cheap rubber backless sandals. Tinnie: Could be a can of beer or a small aluminium boat. Trakkie Daks: Tracksuit pants. Waterhole or rockhole: Usually a permanent pool of water that is sometimes part of a river or creek. Anything missing? Still confused? Just send me an email so I can add it.

Chapter 10: ALICE SPRINGS ______

lice Springs is a thriving, modern city of about 28,000 people, that some see as an oasis in the arid country. Others see it as a convenient place to rest up, restock and A head bush again. Alice Springs is situated on the Stuart Hwy, alongside the usually dry Todd River. It’s the largest city in the Red Centre. Well, actually, there are only two, the other being Tennant Creek, and it’s quite a bit smaller. So Alice (as the locals call it) is an important place. It’s where you’ll arrive if you come by plane or train. It’s where you’ll stock up on food and other supplies. And it’s where many people base themselves in between trips into the outback. There's so much to see and do in this bustling place that you could easily spend 3 or 4 days exploring it. There are wildlife parks, lookouts, walking and cycling tracks, museums, numerous historic sites, markets and dozens of places where you can see Aboriginal arts and crafts. If you want to handle a large lizard, fly in a hot air balloon, buy some indigenous artworks, learn how kids are educated in the outback, see a massive solar power station, ride a camel, helicopter or quad bike, it’s all available in Alice Springs. Plus a whole lot more! Detailed information on all attractions is provided in the full guide. The City Centre area is easy to explore on foot and you can easily reach many of the attractions by walking. A few attractions are further out and may require a car or a bicycle. Personally, I enjoy spending a few days in the area each time we pass through. It gives me a chance to restock, do the laundry, treat myself to a nice meal or two in a restaurant and indulge in some people-watching in Todd Mall. Alice has an excellent range of accommodation options from camping to backpackers to luxury resorts and everything in between. It also has a fabulous range of restaurants ranging from cheap and cheery to gourmet dining. It’s a great place to try indigenous foods such as kangaroo, wattle seeds, damper, quandong and much more. Alice also has a lively nightclub scene and plenty of bars. Getting oriented All of the driving routes described in the full guide start from here and most are loops that bring you back into Alice Springs.

 Route 1 (Stuart Hwy North) arrives into Alice Springs from the south  Route 2 (Stuart Hwy South) arrives into Alice Springs from the north  Route 3, Route 4 and Route 7 leave Alice Springs to the west, towards the West MacDonnell Ranges  Route 5 leaves Alice Springs to the east, towards the East MacDonnell Ranges  Route 6 leaves Alice Springs to the south east

What else is in the full guide? There’s simply not enough room in this Pocket Guide to tell you all about the best things to see and do in Alice, where I love to eat and my favourite camping spots. The full guide includes sketch maps of the town and surrounding area. I’ve included detailed information on the many attractions you can visit as well as my thoughts about where you should go and what you should see, depending on how much time you have in the area and what your interests are. I’ll tell you which attractions you shouldn’t miss if you’re a history buff, or if you love wildlife, or if Aboriginal arts and crafts are your thing. You’ll find information on history, walking and cycling around Alice Springs, seeing Aboriginal arts and crafts, festivals and events and tours you can join. There’s also detailed information and links to accommodation and dining, shopping, car and camper hire. Quite simply, it’s jam-packed with what I know and love about the Alice.

Whistling kite, commonly seen around Alice Springs

PART TWO: DETAILED GUIDE SAMPLE

Route 1: STUART HWY NORTH: From the SA Border to Alice Springs ______ere’s the full information on Route 1. It is the shortest of the routes in the full guide but this will give you a good idea about the level of detail that I provide. There’s H over 140 pages of it! We begin our journey on the Stuart Highway at the South Australian border and head north to Alice Springs. This highway is actually much longer than that, starting in Port Augusta and finishing in Darwin, a distance of 2711km. The road is named after the famous explorer, John McDouall Stuart, who explored a lot of this area in the 1850s and 1860s. There are a couple of worthwhile side-trips to break the journey. The first is the Henbury Meteorite Craters where you can stretch your legs on a short walk to see the craters. The second is magnificent Rainbow Valley. If at all possible, schedule a night to camp at Rainbow Valley as the sunset has to be seen to be believed and there are also a couple of great short walks to do.

Rainbow Valley

The following map is a rough sketch of the route and should not be used for navigation.

Distance 283km plus 86km of side-trips. Time to allow This is a sealed highway all the way so you could easily drive it in a day. However, there are two excellent side-trips on dirt roads and they include 2-3 hours of tourist walks. So it would be best if you allow 2 days. Difficulty & road conditions

The whole itinerary can be done in a 2WD except for the side-trip to Rainbow Valley, which is on a corrugated dirt road that is best done in a 4WD. Fuel Fuel is available at Kulgera, Erldunda and Stuarts Well. The longest distance without fuel is 131km between Erldunda and Stuarts Well. Map “The Red Centre” HEMA Map covers the entire route. 1:750,000.

Permit None required

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Part A: SA/NT border to Rainbow Valley turnoff

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SA/NT border to Henbury Meteorite Conservation Reserve turnoff 0.0km NT-SA Border

1.3km (1.3km) Mulga Park Rd turnoff There are free camp spots 1-2km along this rd on the L. Remember to camp no more than 50m away from the road. 20.0km (18.7km) Kulgera

Stop here to check out the atmospheric Mulga Bar with its "hat" theme. The roadhouse has fuel, gas refills, public toilets, takeaway food, a restaurant and basic supplies. They offer budget motel rooms with shared bathrooms, as well as powered and unpowered camp sites. You can cool off in the swimming pool too. http://kulgeraroadhouse.com.au/ Ph: (08) 8956 0973. Open for fuel from 7am to 9pm every day. There's also a police station here.

Insider’s Tip Don’t get your explorers mixed up. John McDouall Stuart is famous for leading the first successful expedition to cross Australia from south to north and back again. In the process he researched a suitable route for the Overland Telegraph Line. An explorer with a similar name is Charles Sturt also explored this area but a little earlier, in the 1820s and 1830s. One of his most famous expeditions was the search for the elusive “inland sea”, instead finding that many rivers flowed into the mighty Murray River.

90.9km (70.9km) Erldunda

Stop here to get up close with emus at their emu farm and to buy freshly baked bread. The roadhouse has fuel, public toilets, fuel, gas refills, supplies, meals and accommodation. The Desert Oaks Motel offers motel rooms and shady powered and unpowered camp sites. Facilities include a swimming pool, tennis court, laundry, games room, free WIFI and a bar. As is the case for all remote inland properties in Australia, they generate their own electricity and pump their own water, in this case from bores about 20km away. Do go and say hi to the emus! Ph: (08) 8956 0984 http://erldundaroadhouse.com/accommodation/ Open for fuel from 6.00am – 9.00pm every day.

Insider’s Tip These guys claim to be located in the very centre of Australia. If you’d like a heated campfire discussion with some Australians, just raise the issue of exactly where the centre is! Apparently there are 5 places on the map that are contenders so the Government has decided that the title goes to the middle point of those 5 places, and that’s right here!

This is also the turnoff to Uluru / Ayers Rock via the Lasseter Hwy. Continue straight ahead towards Alice Springs. 122.7km (31.8km) Desert Oaks Rest Area

157.9km (35.2km) Henbury Meteorite Conservation Reserve turnoff ______

Side-trip to Henbury Meteorite Conservation Reserve

Turn L (west) here on Ernest Giles Rd to take the worthwhile side trip to see these craters. After 10.9km turn right (north) and it's a further 5km along this rd. It's a good dirt rd and is

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Route 1: Sturt Hwy North usually fine for 2WD vehicles. There’s a picnic area and national parks camping area with a toilet – fees are payable on site. You’ll need to bring your own water and firewood. There are 12 craters in this area and they were formed when a meteor hit the earth almost 4,000 years ago. It's one of the world's best preserved examples of a small crater field. It is likely that this meteor was travelling at over 40,000km per hour when it hit. In the unlikely event that you find a fragment it will be much heavier than the other rocks around. Take the time to do the easy 1.5km circuit walk around the craters.

Do the right thing! Unfortunately, thoughtless people have helped themselves to small pieces of meteorite fragments. Please don’t join them – it’s illegal and unethical.

Retrace your route back to the start of this side-trip.

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Henbury Meteorite Reserve turnoff to Rainbow Valley turnoff 0.0km Set your trip meter at zero at the hwy and continue towards Alice Springs. 4.8km (4.8km) Finke River Rest Area

This is small rest area on the east (right) side of the highway. It’s close to the highway so there is some traffic noise and the river has been fenced off to keep campers out. 31.8km (27.0km) Cannonball Memorial This memorial is on the east (right) side of the highway. The Cannonball Run is a long distance car race that attracts enthusiasts from all over the world. The first ever event was held in May 1994 and the participants were racing on the Stuart Highway from Darwin to Alice Springs and return (about 3200km). On the section of road right here it was common for drivers to reach speeds in excess of 200km per hour! Unfortunately, two Japanese drivers in their Ferrari F40 as well as two officials died in a crash during this inaugural race. As a result the NT government introduced a speed restriction of 130km per hour (previously there was no speed restriction in the NT). The race continues to this day, with a different route each year. 37.2km (5.4km) Stuarts Well

Stop here for the free camp area and you can use the showers and toilets in the campground - the downside is that you won’t find any grass! The roadhouse has public toilets, groceries, a bar, restaurant, caravan park with a swimming pool, camping areas, public washing machines 44

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Route 1: Sturt Hwy North and WIFI. Peter "Spud" Murphy and his family serve up takeaway and home cooked meals. Accommodation options include ensuite cabins, budget bunkrooms, powered sites and grassy camp sites. Plus free camping on the dirt area. Ph: 08 8956 0808 www.stuartswellroadhouse.com.au Open for fuel from 6.00am till late every day except Christmas Day.

Insider’s Tip Until about 2014, Stuarts Well used to be known as “Jim’s Place” after its owner Jim Cotterill. The Cotterill family cut the first road to Kings Canyon and Jim had many stories to tell about his adventures in the Red Centre. He leased land near Kings Canyon and built the first tourist accommodation facilities there. When the area was declared a national park in 1983 the government wouldn't renew his lease or reimburse him for any expenses he had incurred in establishing the place. He was so angry that he bulldozed the lot before he left, ensuring no one else could use the buildings for free. Most people don't know this story but many will remember Jim for Dinky, his singing pure-breed dingo. Dinky would sit at the piano in the bar and howl when anyone played. Unfortunately, Jim is gone now and Dinky passed away after battling with arthritis.

Camels Australia - FREE

Camels Australia is a nine acre camel farm located next door to Stuarts Well. Entry to the farm is free and you can check out the camels and other orphaned or injured wildlife. You can take a short ride around their enclosure. If you like the experience, you can choose to do a ½ or 2 hr trek. They have a range of hot food and drinks at good prices. Ph: 08 8956 0925 www.camels-australia.com.au

Ships of the Desert Have you heard that camels are called "Ships of the Desert"? This is because they move both left legs together then both right legs together in a rocking motion that resembles a rocking ship. Go check it out for yourself.

51.3km (14.1km) Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve turnoff

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Part B: Rainbow Valley turnoff to Alice Springs ______

Side-trip to Rainbow Valley

Turn R for this excellent side trip. It’s 22km on a dirt road which has some sandy patches and a lot of corrugations, so a 4WD is recommended. Rainbow Valley is an area of very scenic sandstone bluffs and cliffs. Photographers will love this conservation reserve that protects the cliffs of the James Range. The scenic sandstone cliffs and bluffs have coloured bands of rock that were formed by the action of water. Layers of red iron in the sandstone were dissolved by rain and made their way to the surface in the dry season, where they formed a hard dark red capping over the rock. This capping weathers very slowly, while the white sandstone is softer and weathers very quickly. Walking The walking track to Mushroom Rock, an interesting sandstone formation, is an easy 1km loop (allow 1hr). When you’re there look out for the mud nests made by fairy wrens. You can also do the Claypan Walk, which is 1.6km return (allow 45 mins). Camping There are two campgrounds. The first one is called Bush Campground and it has well-spaced sites, with fireplaces and toilets. It's usually the less crowded of the two as there is no view but it's quiet and it’s only about 100m walk to the sunset viewing area. The Rainbow Valley campground is 300m further on at the end of the rd. There are free gas BBQs, picnic shelters, fireplaces and toilets. You need to bring firewood with you as you can’t collect it in the park. Camp fees are payable on site.

Insider’s Tip If possible, camp here for a night as the sunset view is particularly stunning. Climb to the ridge between the two campgrounds to watch the cliffs glow bright red at sunset. You’ll find a track leading from each campground. Sunrise is best seen from the walking track.

Retrace your route back to the start of this side-trip.

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Rainbow Valley turnoff to Redbank Waterhole turnoff 0.0km Set your trip meter to zero back on the Stuart Hwy and turn R. 10.3km (10.3km) Redbank Waterhole bush camp turnoff ______

Side-trip to Redbank Waterhole Turn L here towards Owen Springs Reserve. After 3.8km, go L towards Redbank Waterhole. You can camp anywhere after another 1km. It’s pleasant and quiet but it’s unusual to find water in the river. This is a dirt rd and can be corrugated and sandy. It’s the last free bush camp spot before Alice Springs. Retrace your route back to the start of this side-trip. ______

Redbank Waterhole turnoff to Alice Springs 0.0km Set your trip meter to zero back on the Stuart Hwy and turn L. 6.6km (6.6km) Mt Polhill Rest Area

This spot is close to the hwy so expect traffic noise.

Insider’s Tip At about 41km, you might catch a glimpse of the domes at Pine Gap to your L. This is a joint defence facility used by Australia and the USA. It controls US spy satellites as they pass over one third of the globe including China, the Asian parts of Russia and the Middle East. You’ll see some of the large antennas but don’t even think of dropping in for a visit – it’s strictly off limits!

53.6km (47.0km) T intersection Go L here towards Alice Springs (the airport is to the R).

60.6km (7.0km) Heavitree Gap The Todd River, the Ghan Railway line and the Stuart Hwy all squeeze through this narrow gap in the range. Continue following the Stuart Hwy. 63.6km (3.0km) Alice Springs Corner of the Stuart Hwy and Stott Terrace. ______

Route 3: RED CENTRE WAY: West MacDonnells, Kings Canyon, Uluru & Kata Tjuta ______ere is part of the Red Centre Way chapter, copied from the full guide. H This is the quintessential route to take in the Red Centre. If you only have time for one of the loops in this book then choose this one. It has a nice mix of the “must see” tourist attractions and Aboriginal cultural experiences together with some off-the-beaten-track places and heaps of great walking.

Uluru The route heads west from Alice Springs and very quickly you’ll enter the West Macdonnell National Park. Known as Tjoritja to the Aboriginal people, this impressive park stretches for 161 kilometres west of Alice Springs. In the compact section between Alice and Glen Helen, you’ll find many side-trips to refreshing gorges, stunning lookouts, rock holes where you can take a dip on a hot day and numerous walking tracks to explore. Glen Helen offers a chance for a good feed or a comfortable night before tackling the corrugated Mereenie Rd to Kings Canyon. This route travels through Aboriginal Lands and you’ll need a permit (see below). On the way you can also stretch your legs at the massive Gosse Bluff Meteorite Crater. Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) is a definite highlight with its rugged ranges and sheer canyon walls that tower 100m above the canyon. The Rim Walk around the top of the canyon is magnificent and don’t miss the side-trip into the Garden of Eden. The route continues via Kings Creek and Curtin Springs Stations to the jewel of the Red Centre – Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Walking around the base of Uluru is often described as a 49

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Route 3: Red Centre Way spiritual experience and this book will help you discover the rich Aboriginal heritage of the area. Sipping champagne as the setting sun turns the sky bright red is one of those “must do” experiences. Some would say riding a camel across the red desert sands qualifies too. Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) has a very different feel to Uluru. It’s less touristy and walking is the only way to experience the magnificent towering rock domes. There are 36 domes so a different view unfolds around every bend in the track. It’s a long but easy drive back to Alice Springs via Curtin Springs, Mt Ebenezer and then the Stuart Hwy. The following map is a rough sketch of the route and should not be used for navigation.

Distance 1218km plus 135km of side-trips. Time to allow You could complete the driving in 4-5 days but that wouldn’t leave much time to do any of the excellent walks on offer or visit the attractions along the way. Whatever you do, allow at least 2 days and 2 nights to explore the Uluru / Kata Tjuta area. This circuit offers heaps of walking possibilities, including about 18hrs of tourist walks and another 9 days of challenging or off-the-beaten track walks. If you like walking and enjoy learning about indigenous culture, then I’d suggest a minimum of 8 days. If you’re an avid hiker, take 2 weeks or more and do it all.

Difficulty & road conditions This route has mostly easy driving with easy to moderate side-trips. About 1070km of the main route is on sealed rds. You will need a 4WD to complete the entire circuit, because there’s about 150km of corrugations on the Mereenie Rd to Kings Canyon. About one-third of the side-trips are on sealed rds and the rest are on dirt rds and tracks that require 4WD. If you don’t have a 4WD don’t worry. There is another way you can see the major icons of Kings Canyon, Uluru and Kata Tjuta. It is a longer drive but it is all on sealed roads. From Alice Springs, go south on the Stuart Hwy for about 200km to Erldunda (use the Route 1 notes to help). Then take the Lasseter Hwy to visit Uluru and Kata Tjuta as well as a side-trip to Kings Canyon (use the Route 3 notes to help). If you also do Route 4 you’ll be able to get to most of the main attractions in the West MacDonnell Ranges as well. That’s the real icons covered in your 2WD! Fuel Fuel is available at Glen Helen, Kings Canyon Resort, Kings Creek Station, Curtin Springs, Yulara, Erldunda and Stuarts Well. The longest distance without fuel is 271km between Glen Helen and Kings Canyon Resort. Map “The Red Centre” HEMA Map covers the entire loop. 1:750,000.

Permit In order to complete this loop, you must obtain a Mereenie Tour Pass (permit). It is very easy to get and is issued on the spot. This permit allows you to drive the Mereenie section of road between Kata Pata Pass (just past Gosse Bluff) and the Watarrka National Park boundary (Kings Canyon). The permit comes with an information booklet and map. You can get the permit for free if you go to the Central Land Council (CLC) at 27 Stuart Highway Alice Springs. This is north of town just past Smith St. You will be asked for your travel dates. The permit can be obtained up to 5 days before travel and has a 3 day window in which you must travel the Mereenie section. The CLC phone number is (08) 8951 6211. Permits can also be purchased from Ntaria Store in Hermannsburg, Glen Helen and Kings Canyon Resort. Out of town outlets may not allow the same flexibility of travel times. This permit is not available online.

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Part A: Alice Springs to Glen Helen

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Alice Springs to Simpsons Gap turnoff 0.0km Set your trip meter at zero at the intersection of the Stuart Hwy with Stott Terrace. Then go west on Larapinta Drive towards the West Macdonnell Ranges.

5.2 km (5.2km) Alice Springs Desert Park 5.9km (0.7km) Flynn's Grave Pull over on the L side of the hwy to check out John Flynn’s grave. He is well known as the founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service and the Australian Inland Mission. The original rock for the memorial was brought here from the Devils Marbles 400km to the north. The Devils Marbles is a sacred site though, so many years later the original rock was taken back there and welcomed home by its custodians. The rock to replace the original stone was selected by the Arrernte people in a significant gesture of reconciliation. It came from another registered sacred site, a place of great importance, in the Alice Springs area. 15.3km (9.4km) Simpsons Gap turnoff ______

Side-trip to Simpsons Gap

Turn R here and follow the sealed rd for 6.3km to Simpsons Gap. Note that Simpsons Gap is only open from 5.00am to 8.00pm and camping is not allowed (unless you are hiking overnight on the Larapinta Trail). The walks and other features are listed in the order you’ll come to them. 1.0km Ranger Station & Ghost Gum Walk Stop at the Ranger Station and have a look at the displays. There’s a statue of a rock wallaby so check that out so you know what you are looking for when you get into Simpsons Gap itself. At the Ranger Station you can also do a 15 min walk to an ancient ghost gum. Facilities include a picnic shelter, toilets, bins and gas BBQs. 3.0km (2.0km) Woodland Trail Walk This is a good walk for those who enjoy a longer hike of moderate difficulty. The Woodland Trail to Bond Gap is a return distance of 17 km. It's an out-and-back walk to the Gap which has a narrow cleft with icy cold water (seasonal). You can also turn around after 5km at Rocky Gap. There's a picnic shelter at the car park at the start of this track. 4.7km (1.7km) Cassia Hill Walk This less strenuous walk is a 1.8km (one hour ) loop track that takes you to Cassia Hill, providing views of the range and Simpsons Gap area along with interpretive signs about the woodland plants. There's a picnic shelter at the car park. 5.6km (0.9km) Bike path If you are travelling with bicycles, you can take a ride on this sealed bicycle path towards Alice Springs. It’s 17km one way to Flynn’s Grave. 6.3km (0.7km) Picnic area at the end of the road Here you’ll find free gas BBQs, a picnic shelter, bins and toilets. The Simpsons Gap Walk starts here too.

Simpsons Gap Walk Make sure you take the short walk to explore the delightful waterhole and gorge in the Gap. This is one of the most prominent gaps in the West Macdonnell Ranges, where Roe Creek cuts through the brilliant orange gorge. It’s Heavitree Quartzite, the oldest rock in the Amadeus Basin; in fact it’s hundreds of millions of years older than when Australia and Antarctica separated! This place is an important spiritual site for Arrernte people and they consider it to be the home of the Big Lizard People (giant goannas). While you’re there, keep an eye open for those elusive black-footed rock wallabies. The best time to see them is early or late in the day and the best place to look is the rocky scree slope to the east of the Gap. Ranger nature walks - FREE From May to September you can join one of these walks. Dates and times are advertised on the national parks website.

Do the right thing! In the West MacDonnell Ranges, swimming is not permitted in Simpsons Gap but is allowed at Ellery Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge and Birthday Waterhole.

Retrace your route back to the start of this side-trip. ______

Simpsons Gap turnoff to Standley Chasm turnoff 0.0km Set your trip meter at zero back on the main rd (Larapinta Drive) and turn R. 0.4km (0.4km) Kathleen Buzzacott Art Studio – FREE Kathleen Buzzacott’s indigenous art studio is on the right, at Lot 1691 Larapinta Drive. It is a family owned and operated business specialising in bush seed and gem stone jewellery. Open Monday – Wednesday 9:00am – 12:30pm and Saturday 10:00am – 2:00pm, closed public holidays. Ph: 08 8955 0996. www.kathleenbuzzacott.com.au 23.0km (22.6km) Standley Chasm turnoff ______

Side-trip to Standley Chasm

Turn R here for the side trip to Standley Chasm. It's 9km along a sealed rd to the kiosk and picnic area at the end of the road. The entry fee covers the cost of the walk into Standley Chasm itself. You need to pay this at the café. They also offer camping including showers,

© March 2018 Monica Coleman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-red-centre BACK TO INDEX Route 3: Red Centre Way power and free access to the walk so that’s a good deal. Note that access to the Bridle Trail Loop Walk is free. This Aboriginal owned and operated property is known as Angkerle Atwatye and is a significant “woman’s dreaming” site. It’s not a national park, but is located in a private flora and fauna reserve owned by the Iwupataka Land Trust. It is operated by Aboriginal family members that are direct descendants from Aboriginal people who have lived in this area for thousands of years. The Chasm’s European name honours Mrs Ida Standley who was a school teacher of Aboriginal children at nearby Jay Creek. During her time here she became the first non- Aboriginal woman to visit this site. There are public toilets, picnic areas, BBQs, a café and a gift shop featuring a range of genuine Aboriginal beads, paintings and wooden items made by local family members. Make sure you support them as the profits from their sales go directly back to the family and they operate the café as a training facility for their children. This is a profitable business with no government funding. Standley Chasm Walk Now, off to the Chasm on the 1.2km (20 min) walk. You’ll be surprised to see water and an oasis of lush plants and colourful wildflowers due to the spring fed pools. Those who have been here before will be surprised to see the new wheelchair accessible path that leads to the chasm. It was built by female workers using local stone to uphold with the spiritual significance of this women's space. The Chasm itself is a gap which has been gouged out of the tough sandstone over millions of years to reveal a narrow 80 metre high cleft in the rock. Bridle Trail Loop Walk – FREE This walk starts at the back of the kiosk area. It's 20 mins to the lookout and about an hour to complete the entire loop. Contact Standley Chasm Ph: 08 8956 7440. www.standleychasm.com.au Open 8.00am – 5.00pm every day (no entry after 4.30pm).

Insider’s Tip The best time for photography is on a sunny day, one hour either side of noon (winter time). The sheer walls glow bright red from the reflected sunlight. It’s also the busiest time and attracts large coach groups so consider yourself fore-warned.

Retrace your route back to the start of this side-trip. ______

Standley Chasm turnoff to Birthday Waterhole turnoff 0.0km Set your trip meter at zero back on the main rd (Larapinta Drive) and turn R. 54

6.0km (6.0km) Veer R on Namatjira Drive towards Glen Helen. 15.1km (9.1km) Birthday Waterhole turnoff ______

Side-trip to Birthday Waterhole

If you have a high clearance 4WD I recommend turning R along a dirt rd here (there's no sign). The track is rough and sandy in places and includes some rocky river bed crossings. After 100m you'll come to an information board with sketch map of the area. It’s about 14km to the waterhole. The route along the Hugh River is the same as that taken by explorer John McDouall Stuart's party all those years ago. You can camp anywhere along the river for the next 7km, as well as at Birthday Waterhole. You can also camp at Hugh Gorge, but I don’t recommend it, as the campsite is very small and unattractive. After 12.6km, turn R towards Birthday Waterhole. The track continues another 1.4km to the semi-permanent waterhole. It becomes rougher and quite rocky and there may be some river crossings that require care. The setting at the campsite is splendid, especially when the river has plenty of water. There are no facilities - you can light fires but need to bring your own wood. Camping here is free. From here you can walk 900m on an access track to join the Larapinta Trail. If you’d like a challenging, dramatic walk, turn L (W) when you reach the Larapinta Trail and continue via Spencer Gorge to Windy Saddle and return. This track is very rough in places and requires some scrambling and navigation experience. It is about 5.2km each way, making a total return trip of 12.2km (allow 5-6 hours all up). If that's too far, do consider walking to Spencer Gorge and back, which is about half the distance. Retrace your route back to the start of this side-trip. ______

I’ve run out of room here so the rest of the information on this Red Centre Way route can be found in the full guide.

Final words about the Pocket Guide ______

hat’s it. I hope I’ve convinced you to take a closer look at the full guide so that I can share heaps more T information with you.

Destination Red Centre is perfect for anyone planning a self- drive holiday in the area, whether it be in a 2WD or a 4WD.

If you’re planning on continuing north after your Red Centre trip you might also like these books in the same series.

Destination Kimberley takes you via the Tanami Track and the Bungle Bungle National Park to Kununurra. From there you can explore the famous Gibb River Road and other attractions in the region.

Destination Top End takes you further north on the Stuart Hwy to Darwin with opportunities to explore Katherine Gorge, Litchfield National Park, Kakadu National Park and much more.

I hope you found this Pocket Guide useful. Whether you did or didn’t, I’m grateful for all the feedback that I receive. You can tell me what you think about it here: www.kimberleyaustralia.com/DRC-feedback 56

If you know of anyone else who would benefit from this Pocket Guide or the website, please let them know about it. If you have a blog or website, please consider adding a link in a post, the blogroll or favourites. Tweet it, add a link on your Facebook Wall….every link helps to spread the word! Thanks for reading all the way to the end and I hope you’ll enjoy a trip to one of the most spectacular places in Australia. Until now, not many travellers have thoroughly explored the Red Centre as there hasn’t been a good guide book to help them. That is until now! Thanks heaps! Monica Coleman