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Geographical Review of Japan Vol. 78, No. 5, 289-310, 2005

Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, : Regional Bases and Subjects for Sustainable Development

MARUYAMA Hiroaki*, NIHEI Takaaki**, and NI HIWAKI Yasuyukl* *Faculty of Education and Human Sciences, Yokohama National University, Yokohama 240-8501, Japan **Graduate School of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Tsukuba, Tsukuba, Ibaraki 305-8572, Japan

Abstract: The Brazilian Pantanal, the world's largest holding abundant wildlife, has recently drawn profound concern about the development of the tourist industry. To provide significant proposals for ecotourism in the wetland, we believe that detailed data acquired by fieldwork is requisite, This study examines the regional bases that carry regional ecotourism, and attempts to present some proposals for ecotourism from the case of the north Pantanal. The results are shown as follows in order of regional scale. (1) In the water source of the Pantanal, , it is necessary to make efficient plans to control recent agricultural development, especially in and cotton production. (2) On the wetland level, legally protected areas such as national parks and RPPN (Reserva Particular do Patrimonio Natural) should be extended. (3) On the municipal level, environmental subsidies are needed for disused goldmines, and for the maintenance of tourist infrastructures such as Transpantaneira and MT 370. (4) Modern hotels and eco-lodges need to provide ecotourism organized by local people, and to equip the facilities with adequate sewage facilities and garbage recycle plants to preserve the natural environment.

Key words: ecotourism, Transpantaneira, hotel, eco-lodge, Pantanal, Brazil

ment1 that aims at coping with the fixation Introduction and indivisible quandaries of tourism in the late 1980s (Funck 2002). That is to say, The expansion of mass-tourism involving not ecotourism entails the practice of "sustainable only developed countries but also developing tourism," or "responsible tourism," which gives countries has reached terrestrial scale. At the priority to regional resources and residents same time, the problems that mass-tourism (Lindberg and Hawkins 1993; Fennell 1999). causes are apparent, such as the disturbance of However, from the beginning it holds a contra natural resources, indigenous culture and soci diction in economic development and environ ety. This situation is essentially a result of the mental preservation. development of tourism that pursues a high With the participation and cooperation of re return in the short term. In such conditions, gional people, ecotourism achieves environ alternative tourism was conceived, and the no mental preservation in the tourism sector that tion of ecotourism was manifested in the late accompanies sustainable usage of regional na 1950s (Ceballos-Lascurain 1957; weaver 1998). ture and culture resources. It is certainly dif Though the definition of ecotourism varies ferent from "external tourism" that is brought among researchers, it consists of nature frequently by profit-seeking developers from adventure-culture oriented travel such as wild outside the region, and is an attempt to con life-watching, adventure travel, cultural and ceive self-supportable "internal tourism." The historical travel (The International Ecotourism initiative should be substantiated by the people Society 2000). Ecotourism is basically a con in the region in which ecotourism is practiced, cept to bring fruition to sustainable develop and it follows an understanding of long-lasting

289 44 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T,, and NISHI WART Y. preservation and protection of the resources of the valuable natural environment and biologi tourism (Ishimori 2001; Foucat 2002). cal diversity, UNESCO registered the Pantanal In order to practice the principles of ecotour as a World Natural Heritage in 2000. Further ism, it is necessary that scrupulous guidelines more, as the environmental problem of the Pan should be created for every place in terms of tanal extends as a worldwide issue, it has re regional conditions of natural and social re ceived attention from international organiza sources. Then, ecotours of as high quality as tions such as the World Bank and the Inter commercial tours should be offered to tourists - American Development Bank, WWF, and (Ross and Wall 1999). The guidelines must NGOs. include the purposes of the tour, actual practice The empirical data of this study was obtained methods, and codes of conduct. This also re from our field work conducted mainly in 2001, lates to people who are indirectly connected i.e., interviews with owners and employees of with ecotourism. It should simultaneously pro hotels and farms, and government agencies vide tourists with environmental and humanis such as EMBRAPA (Empresa Brasileira de Pes tic education (Japan Ecotourism Society 1999; quisa Agropecuaria), SEMA (Secretaria de Es Ceballos-Lascurain 1996). tado de Meio Ambiente), IBGE (Instituto Brasi Actually, superficial ecotours in which ama leiro de Geografia e Estatistica), IBAMA (Insti teur travel agencies or guides merely take tour tuto Brasileiro do Meio Ambiente e dos Recur ists into the countryside are rampant. This sos Naturais Renovaveis), and FEMA (Funda condition contains the possibilities for ecotour cao Estadual do Meio Ambiente). We also used ism to deteriorate into mass-tourism. Introduc GPS and GIS to show the location of buildings tion of ecotourism may actually lead to the and trees in large-scale maps. ironic situation that would bring about the re gional destruction of natural, cultural, and so Study Area cial resources, which form the bases of the de velopment of ecotourism (Burton 1998; Weaver Centers of Ecotour and the Pantanal 1999). Whereas great anticipation and concern is given to the development of ecotourism, As in the case of Costa Rica and Ecuador, there is also considerable anxiety. which are regarded as models of world ecotour To cope with these problems that ecotourism ism, many suitable for ecotourism that embraces, the authors believe that it is impor enclose abundant nature resources are dis tant to pay attention to the importance of basic persed in the Central and South . Re data obtained from fieldwork. Former studies gions such as the Amazon, the , the Gala on ecotourism are concentrated rather too pagos, and , are popular as ecotour much in conceptual approaches and inductive tourists can enjoy nature fully (Sendai 2001; theories, and nor seem the information of case Duffy 2002; Wallace and Pierce 1996). In the studies do not seen sufficient to substantiate case of Brazil, EMBRATUR (Empresa Brasileira the theories. To make persuasive suggestions de Turismo, Instituto Brasileiro de Turismo) and to provide considerable data for future designated 26 centers of ecotourism (polo de ecotourism, this study examines the regional ecoturismo) in order to introduce ideal regions bases that sustain modern ecotourism in the for ecotourism to domestic and foreign tourists. case of the Brazilian Pantanal. The main cause of the designation by the gov Expanding across the middle part of the ernmental organization can be attributed to the South American , the Pantanal is rise of the ecotourism in the Pantanal and Ama known as the world's biggest wetland. It in zonas in the late 1980s and early 1990s. cludes the borders of Brazil, and Para The centers of ecotour are roughly divided guay, and the total area consists of numerous into four regions, i.e., Amazon (numbers of the subdivided that amount to about 230 centers of ecotours: 1), Pantanal (3), North East thousand square kilometers, which is equal to (13), and South East (9) as shown in Figure 1. Honshu island of Japan. In order to preserve Except for the Amazon and the Pantanal, the

290 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 45

Figure 1. Centers of ecotourism and national parks in Brazil, 2003. Source: EMBRATUR

area of the centers of ecotours in the plateau the 47 national parks in Prazil.2 Comparing and coastal region is minute. Almost all of the with the large area of the center of ecotourism ecotour centers are located in and around na in the Pantanal, the area of national park pro tional parks. The Parque Nacional do Pantanal tected by government is small. Mato-grossense is the only national park lo Nature in and around the wetland cated in the Pantanal. It was designated as a national park on the 24th of September 1931, The wetland of the Pantanal counts for no seven years after the Amazonas, and the area, less than 133 thousand square kilometers of 135 thousand ha, is the fifteenth largest among Brazilian territory. The great wetland is sur

291 46 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

rounded by the extensive Brazilian Plateau in the east, the of Bolivian territory in the west, and the Paresis Mountains that form the watershed between the Amazon and the (Figure 2). Climatically, be longing to the savanna, the average annual temperature is as high as 24•Ž. The yearly

precipitation is around 1100mm, and it re ceives 45% of its rainfall in three months, from December to February. Described as a wildlife treasury, the Pantanal has abundant flora and fauna. The outlined number of species is 95 mammals, 162 reptiles, 656 birds, 263 fishes and 1700 phanerogams

(Ministeroio do Meio Ambiente, dos Recursos Hidricos e da Amazonia Legal 1997; Britski et al. 1999). Typical animals are the jacare (cai man) and the capivara whose population is as sumed to be 3.5-10 million and 0.5 million, re spectively (Mourao et al. 2000). Tuiuiu (:

Jabiru mycteria), which is 1.5m in height and has a 2.6m of wing, is regarded as the symbol of the Pantanal. In addition to these animals, there is a large number of endangered species documented in Washington Treaty Appendix I, such as the cervo campo (: Blastoce rus dichtomus) and the arara azul (hyacinth ma caw: Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus) which also inhabit the wetland (Nakasumi 1990). The flora of the plateaus and plains around

the wetland is called Cerrado. It consists mainly of shrubs and bush trees.3 The Cerrado region is also regarded as one of the most pro lific wildlife reserves in the world, as it is called "hot -spot of wildlife ." Regarded as the feed tank

of the wetland, the precipitation of the Cerrado region in the east of the Pantanal amounts to 1600 mm per year (Swarts 2000). Recently, agricultural development focusing on the pro duction of soybean and cotton has rapidly

grown in the Cerrado region. In addition, the Hydrovia Plan, that aims to construct a large waterway crossing the wetland in order to ex

port the yields of the region, was underway (Trent 2000). It is necessary to pay sufficient attention to the future development of the plan since it might fundamentally change the eco Figure 2. Location of the north Pantanal. system of the wetland and prompt the further development of the Cerrado region.

292 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 47

Figure 3. Distribution of accommodations in , 2001. Source: Secretaria de Estado de Planejamento e Coordenacao Geral, Governo de Mato Grosso

south (Nihei 2003). The location of accommo The north Pantanal dation in north Pantanal, such as hotels and Concerning the name values of ecotourism lodgings (pousadas), is concentrated in two especially among sightseers from foreign coun counties (microregioes), i.e., Cuiaba and Pocone. tries, the north Pantanal (Pantanal Norte) lo In the Cuiaba county, which consists of five cated in the state of Mato Grosso, can be consid cities (municipios) including the state capital, ered the center of ecotourism in the Brazilian there are 49 places of accommodation available Pantanal.4 The capital city of the state, Cuiaba, (Figure 3). There are 27 lodgings in the Alto has became an important base for the regional Pantanal County. Most of the lodgings are ecotourism (Bordest et al. 1996). Not only is it eco-lodges designated for ecotourists. The mu close to the wetland, but the city also provides nicipal also includes the gate towns to the wet many kinds of services indispensable for the land, i.e., Caceres, Pocone and Barao de Melgaco. development of ecotourism, such as hotels, travel agencies, and transportation companies Ecotourism at the Municipal Scale including bus, taxi and rental car companies. The package-tour of the Chapada dos Gui Gate towns maraes, which is known for its odd-shaped buttes and mesas is one of them. Caceres and Pocone are gateways to the wet The differences in the provision of infrastruc land through overland routes. Caceres is a tures such as accommodation (hotels and town with a population of 73,596, which lodges) and the scenic roads that are symbol spreads all the way to the levee of the Paraguay ized by Transpantaneira (Rodovia Transpanta River. The town is located 215 km west of neira) resulted in the divergence of the develop Cuiaba, following national Highway 70. Barely ment of tourism between the north and the 90km from the town is San Matias, the border

293 48 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y. town of Bolivia which is known as a free trade and fish in the Cuiaba River. They provide zone and so is exempt from taxation. Eco nature observations such as bird watching and lodges and fishing inns are established along sports fishing combined with sightseeing boats the near the city of Caceres. in Porto Cercado, and the thrilling adventure of Locals offer sightseeing on the and sports deep wetland crossing over the wooden bridges fishing by small motorboats and vessels with of the Transpantaneira. These tours are offered lodging facilities (chalana). South of the Para especially in the state roads and the halfway guay River is the Estacao Ecologica Taiama, stop of the Transpantaneira as a one-day trip which is one of the rare environmental observa (approximately 10 hours) from Cuiaba. tion points in the Pantanal. Pocone is known as a historic town, and the Caceres is famous for its international fishing traditional festivals held there every year are festival (FIP: Festival Internacional de Pesca) other resources of tourism. The festivals are mentioned as the world's largest boat fishing unique in the sense that they hand down the competition in fresh water by the Guinness cultural fusion of native America, Portugal and Book of Records. More than 2000 fishers not Spain, for example, a masked ball (danca dos only from Brazil but also from all over the mascarados) held in May and a tournament world compete at the festival held every Sep (cavalhada) held in July that imitates the fight tember, and a great number of tourists also visit between the Christians and the Moors. An im and enjoy cultural events such as traditional portant consideration is how the cultural heri dances, music concerts, and handicraft markets tage of the Pantanal can be incorporated into (SEDTUR 2001). In the festival no less than 400 regional ecotourism, which shows a tendency boats launch from the competition platform to to the consistent pursuit of nature tourism. pursue large-sized fish, i.e. pintado (Pseudo The production of gold is another feature of platystoma corruscans), surubim (Pseudoplaty Pocone. According to the data of SEPLAN toma fasciatum), piraputanga (Brycon microle (Secretaria de Estado de Planejamento e Coor pis), while children and teenagers drop fishing denacao Geral), the municipality produced 2.1 lines from the riverside.5 Education campaigns tons of gold, about 47% of the total gold pro to train fishing guides are also run during the duction in Mato Grosso, in 1999. Around the competition. built-up area of Pocone, there are about 130 Located 182km east of Caceres, and just 100 gold mines and approximately 5000 gold min km south of Cuiaba along state Highway 60, ers (garimpeiros). Large-scale gold mines are Pocone is also an important tourist town in the located in the west of the built-up area, where north Pantanal. The municipality holds a popu strip mining by large excavators is conducted, lation of 29,970 in an area of 17,126km2. While and abandoned gold mines are scattering the ecotourism of Caceres, which faces the Para around them. At one abandoned gold mine, guai River, specializes in fishing, the observa vegetation cover did not recover until six years tion of wildlife and plants is prevalent in Po after it closed in 1995. Bare topsoil was left, and cone. The town was deforested in 1777 when a water with a large quantity of melted red soil gold mine was found there, and it was named accumulated at the bottom of the deep mining after the native American Beripocone race. shaft. Gold mine developers have a duty to help The town of Pocone is a starting point for the vegetation recover after the mining is passenger transportation to the innermost wet ended; however, there is almost no such recog land through the renowned Transpantaneira nition among them since they regard profit as a and state Highway 370. Going southward, priority. Mr. M, living near to the abandoned Transpantaneira and the state highway termi gold mine, has attempted to reforest by himself nate respectively in Porto Jofre and Porto Cer for three years. He has planted trees such as cado. Both of the villages face the Cuiaba River. pindaiba (Xylopia emarginata) and acuri ( Travel agencies in large cities such as Cuiaba phalerata) and uses the accumulated water in have recently started to plan ecotours that capi the mining shaft as irrigation. There is no talize on the abundant wildlife in the wetland remuneration for his private activity.

294 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 49

pantaneira came to hold the important function Transpantaneira of being the passenger transportation route of Construction The construction of Trans ecotours so that tourists could observe diverse pantaneira that leads deep into the wetland is wildlife. one of the bases of rapid development of At present, Transpantaneira is an unpaved ecotourism in the north Pantanal. In order to 147km road that links Pocone with Porto Jofre. promote the stock-farming of the Pantanal by The gate of Transpantaneira, which is often improving shipment, a road was planned in printed in travel brochures, is located 15 km 1970 under the military government. As the south of the built-up area of Pocone (Figure 4). name shows, at the beginning, Transpantaneira There is an office of IBAMA at the side of the was intended as an extensive road construction gate, and a signboard that warns tourists not to plan to connect Pocone in Mato Grosso and build fires (Photo 1). Corumba in . The number of bridges increases as one trav The road construction began in 1971 from els southward, especially in the southern area the two towns toward the interior of the wet between Pixaim and Porto Jofre, where there land, but, it was hard going installing a perma are 85 bridges, which account for 72% of the nent road in the year-round submerged wet bridges.6 Tourists who visit the area cross a land. Especially in the case of the southern bridge on average every kilometer. The width Pantanal, which has the lowest altitude in the of the wooden bridges is about four meters. In wetland, construction workers faced a difficult the center of the bridges, wooden boards are situation when it was flooded and destroyed by nailed in two parallel lines to suit the wheel a torrential downpour in 1974. After this, the track. The height of wooden bridges from the route from Corumba was discontinued. is approximately two meters. In the dry Road construction in the north Pantanal, on season, automobiles sometimes take shortcuts the contrary, progressed favorably because the through dry fields in order to save time. flooding area is relatively limited in comparison Transpantaneira was designated as a park with the southern Pantanal. In 1978, it reached road (estrada parque) by the Federal Govern completion as scheduled in Porto Jofre, the bor ment in 1996. Preserved by IBAMA, the natu der of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul ral and cultural resources of the park road are along the Cuiaba River. The construction of the to be used for study and education. For in road that aimed at year-round usage faced stance, tourists have to stop and pay an en problems with water in the rainy season. The trance fee per car at the office of IBAMA in Latosol carried from Pocone was piled up on front of the gate to support the program. Fish the road, and a long-continued levee-like road ers have to receive inspection for the weight of appeared. Waterways were built across the their hauls in the office. road especially at points where a lot of water State Highway 370 is also famous as the road collected in the rainy season. The wooden of ecotourism in the north Pantanal. The un bridges built over the points are the feature of paved road connects Pocone and Porto Cercado the landscape of Transpantaneira. over 40 km. State Highway 370 was also desig For ecotourism In the 1980s, the decline of nated as a park road in 2000, and IBAMA began stock-farming in the north Pantanal resulted in to practice the services that were directed to the perfunctory maintenance and management sustainable development of regional tourism of Transpantaneira. The decline of the beef and the preservation of the . The market which was based on extensive grazing traffic signs that call drivers' attention to the and producing of calves damaged the stock road in order not to hit reptiles are part of this farming of the Pantanal, and the Transpanta operation (Photo 2). neira barely carried out its original function of Eco-lodges and Hotels being a method of shipping . However, after ecotourism was introduced in the late Since the late 1980s, ecotourism has been 1980s and developed in the Pantanal, Trans developed in Brazil, and many tourists, even

295 50 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

Figure 4. Distribution of accommodations and bridges in Transpantaneira, 2001. Source: Authors' field survey using GPS

from abroad, come to stay in the wetland to the short term as compared with farming, own enjoy nature, and the management of large ers of scaled down or forsook this sec ranches (fazenda) along the scenic road has tor and tried to earn their living from ecotour changed dramatically. If a tourist stays two ism. nights, the profit is equivalent to selling two The owners of ranches near to Transpanta calves. Since ecotourism brings high profit in neira built annexes or extended main houses,

296 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 51

Photo 1. Gate of Transpantaneira (15 Aug. 2001)

Photo 2. State Highway 370 and a road sign (16 Aug. 2001) and began to invite tourists in the late 1980s tions (eight eco-lodges and one hotel) are lo and 1990s. As a result, the eco-lodges utilized cated in the north of Pixaim, the northern half the facilities of the , and a bucolic atmos of Transpantaneira. The area corresponds with phere for tourism was built, and simple farm an electrification zone in the wetland (65km house accommodation called pousada or hotel south from Pocone). On the other hand, just one fazenda were constructed (Table 1 and Figure eco-lodge and one hotel are located in the south 4). In addition, fishing lodges for sports fishers of Pixaim. The hotel Porto Jofre Pantanal is a were built along the Cuiaba River in Porto Cer modern resort hotel that represents the accom cado, and modern resort hotels such as the modations in the north Pantanal (Nihei 2003). Porto Jofre Pantanal and the SESC (Servico In Campo Jofre, which is deemed a treasury of Social de Comercio) Porto Cercado that were wildlife, there is a campground (Camping Porto equipped with even an larger airport and rec Jofre) managed by the hotel. reation facilities were developed at the river Along state Highway 370, a modern hotel banks. SESC Porto Cercado is located just at the end of Most of the accommodation is located along the path. The Fazenda Baia das Pedras near to Transpantaneira. There are nine eco-lodges the south end of the road is one of recreation and two hotels. Among them, nine accommoda facilities of SESC Porto Cercado. The hotel also

297 52 MARUYANIA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

Table 1. Starting year and number of rooms at accommodations in Pocone

1) Under construction Source: Authors' field survey and Guia Quatro Rodas Brasil 2002. owns RPPN (Reserva Particular do Patrimonio scale is small and the contents are simple com Natural) on the other side of the Cuiaba River, pared with those of hotels. In the shade of big and controls the natural environment. From trees under the eaves of the eco-lodges, ham there, four fishing lodges and one eco-lodge are mocks (redes) are hung so that tourists can located in the upper stream of the Cuiaba River. enjoy the peace and rural atmosphere. The wild Among the accommodations in the north birds that are popular among tourists such as Pantanal, the modern hotels such as Porto Jofre the , the arara azul, and the tucanucu Pantanal and SESC Porto Cercado provide (: Ramphastos toco), are fed in the equal or more luxurious services than the ex gardens. pensive hotels in state capitals. Air condition Visitors mainly participate in package tours ers and satellite broadcast televisions are outfi of four days and three nights, and join ecotours tted in the passenger compartments, and lots of where they can stay in several different accom benches and tables for rest are set around the modations. Though the lodging fee differs de large pools. Furthermore, there are amusement pending upon the season, the average for one facilities such as card game and pool tables, person in a twin room is 50-70 R$ (reais) in movie rooms and videos that are in contrast to eco-lodges and 80-130 R$ in hotels, and 5-7 R$ ecotourism. in the campgrounds owned by eco-lodges. There are also recreation facilities in the eco Other than the room charge, when visitors par lodges that participate in the tourist business ticipate in ecotours that are provided by the by reconstruction of ranch buildings, but the accommodation, it additionally costs 10-70 R$

298 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 53 per tour, and there is a charge for gasoline if tours provided also increases as shown in Fig they use motorboats or automobiles. In com ure 5. The ecotours offered by eco-lodges are parison, the cost of the five-story hotel in front simple such as wildlife and plants sightseeing, of the bus terminal of Cuiaba costs only 20 R$ a excursion boats, and horse riding. In addition, night. The tours in the Pantanal are thus ex there are various ecotours provided by modern pensive. It is said that the cost of an ecotour in hotels, for instance, sports fishing by motor the Pantanal is more expensive than the cost of boat, bird and animal watching tours with spe a stay at a coastal resort for seven days (Trent cialists, camping, and the "eyes of tour" 2000). night cruise. The accommodation offer various ecotours, which are divided into types according to sea Ecotourism at the Scale sons, i.e., the inundated period (enchente) from of Accommodation November to January, the water-filled period (cheia) from February to April, the retreated To present persuasive explanations for the period (vazante) from May to July, and the dry development of ecotourism it is important to period (seca) from August to October. The obtain detailed facts at the nodes where tourists amount of wildlife near to the accommodation gather, as firm evidence for future planning. In increases during the late retreated period and this chapter we focus on different cases of man the dry period, and the number of tourists and agement of accommodation (nodes), using data

Figure 5, Seasons and ecotourism in the north Pantanal. Source: Authors' field survey

299 54 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y, obtained from interviews with the landlord and the guest houses, there are big trees such as officials (decision makers of nodes). mango and morcegueira (Andira inermis), and also benches and poles for hanging hammocks Eco-lodge under the trees. In the yard, they also provide a The management of the eco-lodge by the Pou swimming pool, an orchard, and a small play sada Piuval located near to the gate of Trans ground for children. In the orchard, lemons, pantaneira is described in detail in this section peppers, acerolas and other fruits are planted to (Figure 4: A). Fazenda Ipiranga, with a tradi serve in the restaurant, and chickens roam. In tion of 150 years, launched a tourism section in the courtyard of the main building, there are 1989 with the name of Pousada Piuval.7 The ranch facilities such as barns and riding name is associated with the "grove of ipe grounds, and a laundry. (piuva)" in the ranch. In the dry season, ipe In the main building where the family of the trees (Tabebuia caraiba and Tabebuia hepta eco-lodge lives, there is Guesthouse A with five phylla) are in full bloom in yellow and violet. rooms and a restaurant (Figure 6: a). Adjoining The building site of the eco-lodge is approxi the main building, Guesthouse B has five rooms mately 500m2 (Figure 6). In inundated and and Guesthouse C has six rooms. In the front water-filled periods, some parts of the site are garden of the guesthouses beside the planted soaked in water. The facilities for ecotourism cactus and flowers, there is a parabolic antenna and main building of the ranch are dispersed in for satellite broadcasts though there are no tele the south half of the site. In the front yard of vision sets in the rooms. Restrooms in the

Figure 6. Plan of Pousada Piuval, 2001. Source: Authors' field survey

300 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 55 guesthouse have flush toilets, and the showers facilities, we will look at the case of SESC Porto and baths use cold water. Chairs and tables are Cercado. It is a new hotel established in 1998 placed at the front of each room, and hooks for with 4000m2 of building lot (Figure 7). The hanging hammocks are nailed on the pillars of property of the hotel extends to 106 thousand the eaves. The eco-lodge feeds an arara azul ha in the municipalities of Pocone and Barao de and its toddling movements in front of the Melgaco. guesthouses catch the eyes of tourists. Facing the Cuiaba River, there are wharves This eco-lodge is run by family management. on the south site of the hotel, and four buildings The master is 56 years old, and his wife and for lodging and recreation. At the guest house daughter are in charge of the tourism. The in the western part of the hotel site, there are guesthouses are graded as eleven first-class six suite rooms on the upper stories (Figure 7: rooms (Figure 6: a and c) and five second-class Gs). The numbers of rooms and the capacity of rooms. The capacity of the total bedrooms is 50 rooms were 34 and 100 in 2000, and they will people. This is the same capacity as the number increase to 60 and 160, respectively.8 In the of seats of a large sightseeing bus. However, at center of the corridor that connects the guest the time of carnival, the busiest season, five houses and the restaurant, there is a front desk, people stay in each room. The cost of a first an office, and a souvenir shop in which they sell class room is 80 R$ for a single room, 140 R$ for t-shirts and hats of the brand of SESC Porto a twin room, and 220 R$ for a quadruple room. Cercado (Figure 7: Fo and Sv). There are 16 The main ecotours they provide are wildlife employees on the front desk, 45 for other facili and landscape sightseeing by means of horse ties in the hotel, and 15 for the office in Cuiaba. back riding and rowing boat, and it costs 20 R$ Many of them live in Pocone and commute by per day. car to the hotel, taking an hour to travel a The main customers of the eco-lodge from distance of 40km. January to March are Brazilian. They are espe The restaurant is one of the largest buildings cially concentrated in late February and March in the hotel, and the meals are sumptuous. The when large festivals such as the celebration of buffet-style dinner includes more than 20 the carnival and the Semana Santa take place. dishes, and feijoada (black-bean stew boiled to However, 90 percent of customers during the gether with pork giblets) is served every day. dry period of July and August are foreigners, To the north of the restaurant, there is a power and a few come for weekends. The plant and a food storage facility with a large foreign customers are mainly German, as well cold store (Figure 7: P, Sg). In the storage as a number of Italians, English, French, and facility, besides perishable meat and fruit, there Portuguese. is space for the goods sold at the souvenir shops Since this eco-lodge also manages stock and office supplies such as fluorescent lamps farming, there are traditional ranch facilities and packaging tapes. Fresh food is ordered on such as wooden fences, pens, and barns for Friday and arrives on Monday from Cuiaba. livestock production adjoining the accommoda In the northwest part of the property of the tion facilities. There are 1500 cattle, 110 horses, hotel, Fazenda Baia das Pedras was established and six donkeys. The cattle are the breeding in December of 2001 (Figure 8). The sight cattle that produce calves to be shipped and seeing ranch owned by SESC Porto Cercado is fattened outside of the region. This eco-lodge aimed at providing various services to the tour owns no less than 7000 ha of land. However, it ists staying at the hotel. There are no is relatively small compared with the fazendas guesthouses but stables, a barbecue cottage around the eco-lodge holding 32 to 72 thousand (churrasqueira), horseback riding courses, and a ha. compost plant. The stables are sealed to pre vent horses becoming lean during the rainy Hotel season (December to February) due to the up Facilities for lodging As a case of ecotour surge of mosquitoes, and are equipped with a management in a hotel equipped with modern medical office for veterinary doctors. There are

301 56 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

Figure 7, Plan of SESC Porto Cercado, 2001. Source: Authors' field survey presently 11 horses though this will be in R$ for a twin room, and 92 and 74 R$ for a creased to 30 or 40 before long. There is an triple room. The SESC group takes a member intermittent river (corixo) called the Corixao system and they manage many hotels in Brazil. adjacent to the ranch. Though it becomes three Members of the SESC receive a discount and to four meters deep in inundated and water can stay there for half the price. filled periods, puddles are left after the subsi Owing to the membership system in Brazil, dence of water during the dry period. Along SESC Porto Cercado receives customers mainly the river bank, beautiful trees grow naturally from domestic states. The number of lodging such as the ipe, and the paineira (of the Bomba customers in the hotel from 2000 September to caceae family).9 2001 July is shown in Table 2. It shows that Year-round ecotours SESC Porto Cercado 4956 people (95%) out of 5184 in total are do adopts two types of room charges depending mestic customers. Many of the domestic cus upon on the season and day of the week. A high tomers came from the local state of Mato price list is used from July to September, and on Grosso (3052 people) and also the neighboring Saturdays and Sundays in other months. The state of Sao Paulo (918). Seasonally, the num room charges for one person are respectively ber of lodging customers increases and the dis 138 and 110 R$ for a single room, 104 and 84 tance from which customers come extends in

302 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 57

photographic tours, In addition to these tours, observation and study tours of caimans, capi varas, deer, wild-birds, butterflies, and flowers are available during the dry and retreated peri ods. In other periods, amusements such as bar becues (churrasco) and movie shows are popu lar. Facilities for environmental consideration The efforts for environmental consideration and social contributions practiced by SESC Porto Cercado will be explained next by the cases of RPPN and recycling. RPPN is the land preserved for researching and conservation of the tropical forest, which is exempt from taxa tion in place of development. The total area of RPPN in the north Pantanal amounts to 171,972ha (Table 4). The RPPN named Estan cia Ecologica SESC Pantanal extends to 87,871 ha between the Cuiaba River and the Sao Lourenco River that streams about 20km southeast of the hotel (Figure 8). The preserved Figure 8. Estate of SESC Porto Cercado, 2001. Source: SESC Porto Cercado land was designated in 1997, and an observa tion tower of 39m and a study but for field the retreated and dry periods of July to Septem studies were constructed.10 The guesthouse in ber, and also during the inundated period of the east part of the hotel site is used as the base December to February. At weekends, the num for the researchers who conduct long-term field ber of lodging customers increases from local studies (Figure 7: Gr). The facility is utilized cities such as Cuiaba and Pocone. Paying atten mainly by the federal university of Mato tion to the nationality of the lodging customers Grosso. The lodging customers of SESC Porto from abroad, main countries are listed as Portu Cercado are not only ecotourists but also do gal (102 people), the United States of America mestic and foreign researchers and students. (42), Germany (24) and Uruguay (10). The num Garbage disposed from the hotel is separated ber of foreign customers increases from the late into 7 types in the recycling facility (Figure 7: of dry period to the inundated period. To ap Ry). Empty bottles are washed in the facility peal to foreign customers, SESC Porto Cercado and shipped to Pocone to be sold. Dry cells and holds exhibitions of the Pantanal in European glassware are also shipped to Pocone and dis cities such as Berlin and Roma. Whether or not posed of in the town. Organic trash such as this is a factor, it has a great number of custom leftover food is kept temporarily in the cold ers every month, more than 600 people during storage of the recycling facility in order not to the highest month (July) and about 300 people decay. It is carried to Bata das Pedras and even during the lowest month (June). stocked for 120 days, mixed with grasses, ma In order to respond to the lodging customers nure, and the soil of Cerrado. It is made into who visit all year-round, SESC Porto Cercado compost and is reused as fertilizer for horticul offers various excursions (Table 3). The ture and garden soil. In the horticulture facil ecotours and recreations conducted by guides ity, which is encircled by insect proof nets (H), are performed 12 times a day from 8a.m. to 9 they produce crops that are consumed in the p.m. The contents are changed by day of the restaurant such as vegetables, fruits, herbs and week and season. The main tours practiced spices.11 In the barn adjoined to the horticul year-round are sightseeing by boat, sports ture facility, the seeds of plants such as the fishing boats, horse riding, carriage trips and Sansao do Campo, which grows three meters in

303 58 MARUYANIA H,, NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

Table 2. Visitors to SESC Porto Cercado (person)

Source: SESC Porto Cercado

304 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 59 Table 3. Timetable of ecotours and recreations in SESCPorto Cercado August 20011)

1) Bold names are the recommendations of the hotel. Underlined names are accompanied with motorboats. Source. SESC Porto Cercado. 60 MARUYAMA H., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

Table 4. Area of RPPN (Reserva Particular do Patrimonio Natural) in the north Pantanal, 2003

Source: Agencia Brasileira de Meio Ambiente e Tecnologia da Informacao. a year, are stocked to maintain the greens in the hotel. Water is pumped up from a deep well of Structure of Regional Bases 106m (We), and is used in the hotel after it is filtered and treated with chemicals. The sew Referring to the results mentioned in the pre age is cleaned by decantation and filtering in vious chapters, we focus on the elements that the sewage plant (Sw) and poured into the can be regarded as the bases of regional river. To save water resources bath and hand ecotourism in the north Pantanal. The struc towels in the rooms are exchanged only when ture of regional bases could be described in a customers demand washing service. simple way in order of regional scale as shown in Figure 9. In our discussion on the future development of the region, some elements that

Figure 9. A model of the structure of regional bases for ecotourism in the north Pantanal.

306 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 61 would bring environmental impact are the fo worked out urgently since strip mining has cus of this chapter, i.e., (1) development of crop resulted in serious direct damage to the ecosys land and gold mines in the periphery of the tem of the wetland through deforestation, ero wetland, (2) environmentally protected area sion, the accumulation of soil, and mercury con and Transpantaneira in the wetland, and (3) the tamination. ecotourism in hotels and eco-lodges. Protected area and Transpantaneira Development around the wetland The north Pantanal is an important region The rich flora and fauna that sustain ecotour for the ecotourism of Brazil for its environ ism in the wetland depend much on natural mental diversity and economic development. phenomena, especially the influx and efflux of However, the area protected as a national park water on the plains caused by water level fluc is diminutive as compared with the huge extent tuation of the big rivers crossing from north of wetland. The national park is located deep in east to southwest, such as the Cuiaba, Sao the wetland, about 50km southwest of Porto Lourenco and Piquiri Revers. The rivers' water Jofre (Figure 2), and the area was designated sources are located in the Cerrado region in the much later than the other large national parks east of the north Pantanal. On the plateaus in in the country. One of the reasons that keep the the region, e.g., Serra de Sao Jeronimo and the small protected area from expanding is that the , agricultural development large part of the wetland is occupied by the has recently become prosperous. In particular, estates of private ranches. Seidl et al. (2001) the arable lands composed mainly of the pro estimated about 95% of the area of the Brazil duction of and cotton are spreading ian Pantanal is private property, and 80% of along the thoroughfares between Rondonopolis the area is classified as extensive pasturage. and . The agricultural development of Economic equilibrium in the development of the surrounding area would lead to serious en stock farming needs to be considered, however, vironmental problems in the wetland, such as the recent prosperity of ecotourism, expanding the accumulation of soil in the riverbeds, de into natural conservation areas such as na struction of corridor forests (mata ciliar), fluctu tional parks and RPPN will bring a large eco ation of watercourses, and water contamina nomic profit to owners of the wetland in the tion, because of soil erosion from open-field and north Pantanal. the increased usage of agricultural chemicals. Transpantaneira had been built to promote In the gold mines of Pocone, it is presumed stock farming in wetland but its main role was that 10-15 tons of mercury was used to produce changed to the transportation of tourists dur amalgam in the 1980s (Lacerda et al. 1991). ing the stock market depression in the 1980s. It Some quantity of this mercury flows and accelerated the development of ecotourism, i.e., evaporates into the rivers and the atmosphere an increase in the number of tourists and infra increases at the start of the rainy season. On structure such as hotels, eco-lodges, and park average, the quantity of the mercury in the roads. The increase of tourists has simultane atmosphere of the season amounts to 5.3ng/m3 ously impacted on the regional environment. in the built-up area of Pocone, and 2.8ng/m3 in During ecotours in the region, tourists will see the wetland located 100km downstream from carcasses of animals run over by automobiles the town (Von Tumpling et al. 1995). The and the plastic bottles thrown away on the values were about 2.7 to 1.4 times larger than park-roads and riverbanks. Though the hunt those of the Serra das located in the ing and gathering of animals and plants are northern part of the state. A study also reports prohibited on the park-roads and also in the that fertile women should avoid eating the pis wetland, it is difficult to exercise strict control civorous fish caught in the Cuiaba River during over the deforestation and poaching by land the dry season (Hylander et al. 2000). Planning managers and the thoughtless behavior of visi and execution of effective measures for the gold tors.12 mines on the outskirts of Pocone should be

307 62 MARUYAMA H ., NIHEI T., and NISHIWAKI Y.

from the case of the north Pantanal. The results Hotels and eco-lodges also will provide some proposals for the devel Many of the accommodations are the eco opment in the region in future. lodges that were converted from ranches By examining the regional bases of ecotour (fazenda). Small eco-lodges depend much on ism that are arranged in order of regional scale, urban travel agencies in that they rely on the our summaries are given as follows. (1) In the press and brochures for tourists, despite the surrounding area of the wetland, it is necessary fact that knowledge of the people who live in to make efficient plans to control recent agricul the region is a resource of ecotourism. In such tural development especially in the Cerrado re eco-lodges, there is also the problem that due to gion, one of the water sources of the north shortage of funds they are lagging behind in Pantanal. Environmental subsidies are needed facilities for environmental preservation such for disused goldmines around the wetland. (2) as sewage and waste disposal plants. Codes for On the wetland level, legally protected area ecotourism, by which visitors receive the bene such as national park and RPPN should be ex fit of nature in the unhurried atmosphere of the tended, and plans for the maintenance and eco north Pantanal are needed. The initiative in logical use of the infrastructures such as Trans practicing systematic ecotours should be taken pantaneira and MT370 should be practiced. (3) by the local people and the instructors who are Modern hotels and eco-lodges need to provide well acquainted with regional nature. ecotourism organized by local people, and to The large hotels equipped with modern facili prepare facilities with adequate sewage facili ties prepare many services, and some of them ties and recycle plants to preserve the natural tend to become merely holiday resorts. The environment. knowledge and understanding of regional envi The administration is dealing with such prob ronment among the guests and hosts seems lems by drawing up a plan named the "Pantanal insufficient, and, in addition, systematic Project" whose aims are to promote preserva ecotours are not offered sufficiently. The tion of the environment and sustainable devel amusement events they provide, in particular, opment. However, it is difficult to understand seem to be assimilated into mass-tourism. Some and to perform the ethical standards necessary of the ecotourism provided by them seem not to for compatibility between the environment and aim at conserving the natural environment but the sightseeing business. It will be accompa to take pleasure in it. The tendency involves nied with the burden of cost of environment the possibility of conversion to mass-tourism. preservation facilities especially on the man However, though it is still in development and agements in small lodges. In order to cope with holds problems, some hotels are also looking to the dilemma involved in ecotourism, i.e., eco develop study tours to teach the ecosystem of nomic development of tourism and the sustain the wetland. able usage of regional resources, local residents, travel agents in city and tourists should recog Conclusion nize the "wise use" of the wetland ecosystem (Davis 1993). The people of the region should Most of the ecotours in the Pantanal include devise the system of eco-tourism that provides the observation of natural resources and sports a "tourism of thinking" to visitors from outside. fishing. The success of ecotourism is essentially due to the abundant wildlife and plants of the Acknowledgements wetland. The observational study of the Pan tanal is important in the sense that it contrib We express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Shojiro utes to our understanding of the importance of Saeki in Linkbrazil, Mr. Marcelo T. C. de Oliveira in IPA TI-UA (Environmental NGO), Ms. Maria Esther the tropical wetland, which is regarded as a and Mr. Edson Messias de Almeida in Fazenda Baia valuable property for people now and in gen Bonita. This study is supported by Japan Society for erations to come. This study examined regional the Promotion of Science (JSPS Grant-in-Aid for Sci bases to sustain the ecotourism of the wetland entific Research B(2) No. 16401023, fiscal year 2004-

308 Ecotourism in the North Pantanal, Brazil 63

2006). Vinicious, the vice manager (subgerente) of (Received 3 February 2004) SESC Porto Cercado, and with Mr. Marcus in (Accepted 1 December 2004) charge of technological service (servico de as sistencia tecnica) on 17th and 18th August in Notes 2001. 9. Paineira bears seeds with abundant white fluff. They are available to fill pillows and outfits for 1. Sustainable development must follow moder cold weather. It can flare up by accidentally ate development that takes into account the touching with a naked flame. demands of the current and future generations 10. Their subjects relate generally to ethology, her (Gibbon et al. 1995). petology, planktology, taxonomy, plant geog 2. There are 47 national parks, totaling up to 10.4 raphy, vegetation dynamics, , soil million ha, in Brazil. The national parks are science, , and the density of in controlled and preserved by IBAMA (Instituto habitants, territory, distribution, renovation Brasileiro do Meio Ambiente e dos Recursos and regeneration of animals and plants. Naturais Renovdveis). The largest national 11. The crops are: manjericao (basil), soja (soy parks are Jau (2.3 million ha), Pico da Neblina bean), hortela (mint), couve (Brussels sprout), (2.2) and Amazonia (1.0). The top three na alface (lettuce), mostarda (mustard), chicoria tional parks are located in the basin of the (chicory), rabanete (radish), agriao (watercress), Amazon River, and they were designated as cebolinha (spring onion), pimentao (green pep national parks in 1980, 1979 and 1974, respec per), pepino (cucumber), quiabo (gumbo), berin tively. The oldest national parks of Brazil are Itatiaia (30 thousand ha) and Iguacu (185), jela (eggplant), etc. 12. To give an example of the caiman, one million which were designated in 1937 and 1939, re skins were poached illegally every year in the spectively. 1970s and 1980s (Mourao et al. 2000). 3. The vegetation of Cerrado is also observed in the wetland. 4. In 1979, the junta period of Brazil, the state of References Mato Grosso was separated into Mato Grosso (capital: Cuiaba) and Mato Grosso do Sul Bordest, S. M. L., Macedo, M., and Priante, J. C. R. 1996. (Campo Grande). At the same time, the Brazil Potencialidades e limitacoes do turismo na Bacia ian Pantanal was split into north and south do Alto Paraguai, em Mato Grosso. In Resumos: II administratively. The Piquiri and the Cuiaba Simposio sobre recursos naturais e socioeconomicos Rivers in the Pantanal form the boundary be do Pantanal, ed. E. K. Resende, E. C. Moretti, I. M. tween the two states, and the north Pantanal Bortolotto, G. M. Mourao, J. M. F. Loureiro, M. E. belongs to Mato Grosso. B, Oliveira, M. Dantas, M. Santomo and S. A. 5. The largest fish caught was during the 1999 Santos, 503-506. Brasilia: EMBRAPA-SPI. (P) competition, which was a surubim that at Britski, H. A., Silimon, K. Z. de S. de and Lopes, B. S. tained 1.32 meter in length and weighed 35 1999. Peixes do Pantanal: Manual de identificacao. kilograms. In the main competition, blunt fis Corumba: EMBRAPA-CPAP. (P) hhooks are used in order not to damage the Burton, F. 1998. Can ecotourism objectives be fish, and all fish caught are released back into achieved? Annals of Tourism Research 25: 755 the river after having been measured. - 758. 6. Though opinions on the number of bridges Ceballos-Lascurain, H. 1987. The future of ecotour along Transpantaneira are divided, the ism. Mexico Journal January: 13-14. authors' observation using GPS in August 2001 Ceballos-Lascurain, H. 1996. Tourism, ecotourism, and resulted in 118 bridges between the gate and protected areas: the state of nature-based tourism Porto Jofre. Among them, 116 are wooden around the world and guidelines for its develop bridges and two are made of concrete. ment. Gland, Switzerland: IUCN. 7. Professors Machias and Kach in UFMT (Uni Davis, T. G. ed. 1993. Towards the wise use of wetlands: versidade Federal de Mato Grosso) who carried Report of the wise use project. "Projeto Gran Pantanal" surveyed 50 wells in Gland, Switzerland: Ramsar Convention Bureaul. the north Pantanal. Among the samples, 20 Duffy, R. 2002. A trip too far: ecotourism, politics and were located in Fazenda Ipiranga. Guimaraes exploitation. London: Earthscan. et al. (1998) also conduct surveys of mercury Fennell, D. A. 1999. Ecotourism: An introduction. Lon methylation in the Fazenda. Their results don and New York: Routledge. show that the speed (intensity) of methylation Foucat, V. S. A. 2002. Community-based ecotourism is nine times faster in the route of hydrophytes management moving towards sustainability in than that of the sediment. Ventanilla, Oaxaca, Mexico. Ocean & Coastal Man 8. Data is obtained from interviews with Mr. agement 45: 511-529.

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