Yippee, Yahoo, Uepi, and Gizo... Diving the Wild Western Provinces of the

Some of my best dive trips where guests congregate before while we were there: five Austra- are the ones where I can get and after meals to share tales. lians, two New Zealanders, one away from it all. The first leg of Japanese, and three Americans reaching “away from it all” on Six guest cabins are well (and we still used two boats; try this trip wasn’t that difficult. I spaced across the property. that math in Key Largo). We met flew Qantas to Fiji and con- This allows for plenty of privacy at 8 a.m. at the dive shop, got a nected with Solomon Air to but, depending on your cabin quick but adequate briefing, then , Solomons Islands. assignment, can present a fair loaded our stuff aboard the two Then, after an hourlong flight hike to your meals and div- small aluminum skiffs. The dive from Honiara in an 8-passenger ing — nothing too rigorous, sites were close to the dock, with aircraft, a bouncy peek-a-boo but you may want to request a our longest boat ride approach- approach through some low, cabin close to the dive opera- ing 10 minutes. Twice we drift- rainy clouds, a totally terrifying tion if you’re packing a bulky dived back to the dock — from yet exhilarating splashdown on photo system. Cabins are basic. opposite directions! We were a very flooded grass runway, There’s no hot water, but that riding the tidal flow in and out and a 5-minute motorized isn’t much of a problem in the of . canoe ride across the lagoon, I tropics. All the windows are knew I had reached “away from covered with mosquito netting, We saw sharks on nearly every it all”: Uepi, a small resort and cans of mosquito spray and dive. We saw lionfish. And we island on the edge of Marovo packs of mosquito coils are saw lots of rays. But we never Lagoon. The journey seemed supplied in each cabin. Actu- saw any other divers. It was worth it immediately when I ally, we saw very few of the great. The divemaster confined looked under the canoe at the feared mosquitoes (the his max depth/max time/mini- dock and saw the multihued Solomons have a nasty reputa- mum pressure dictates to the mantles of 12 large tridacna tion for malaria), but that dive briefing and simply kept clams. And the lionfish. And makes sense, considering how us in sight during the dives the crocodile fish. we smelled. Deet tended to be (not a difficult task, given the our fragrance de jour. visibility). None of us pushed Whoopee Uepi any limits, however. Knowing Meals were good: lots of fish your closest recompression fa- Uepi Island fits the descrip- and lots of wonderfully uniden- cility is almost two time zones tion of remote and small. The tifiable vegetables. Lunches away keeps you on the conser- buildings are tucked in be- were especially pleasant, vative side. The dive operation tween lots of coconut palms brought to the cabins in cov- had a list of sites, but I would and other lush tropical foliage. ered baskets and always surpris- recommend simply asking them Electricity is provided from 7 in ing (a rather unique Uepi pizza each day to show you their best the morning to 10 at night one day). The hosts, Greg diving. We never had a bad courtesy of a diesel-powered Stockdale and Sue Wilkes, were dive, never felt rushed to return generator. The main lodge pleasant and helpful and the to the dock. If you need some contains the dining room, a resort staff cheerful. names, ask for Uepi Point, In- well-stocked bar with cold beer side Point, and Landoro Gar- and surprisingly good Austra- Into the Water dens — but remember, the vis- lian wines, and a small but ibility depends on tidal condi- informative library possessing The dive operation ran tions. Don’t miss diving or snor- several picture books on local pleasantly, efficiently, and on keling along the shore right in flora and fauna above and schedule. Remember, with only front of the dive operation. below the water, plus lots of six cabins, these people seldom World War II history. A pleas- see more than 12 divers at a Nondiving activities are also ant, open verandah across the time, and more often only six or served up by the resort staff. A front of the main lodge is eight. There were 11 of us diving village tour is available to a

© 1994 Elephant Socks Publishing, Inc. 9 neighboring island, including a Ask Danny for a personal With the exception of the delightful visit to the village tour of the Toa Maru. I abso- lack of clams under the dock, school, where cultures can col- lutely hate following anyone Gizo diving seemed to be every lide in a way that seems to ben- around on a dive, but cruising bit as good as Uepi, with the efit both the outsiders (us) and the wreck behind Danny was added spice of some World War the young school children, who hilarious. He’s a very con- II casualties. Once Danny is get to ask all sorts of questions. trolled and competent diver. assured of the competence and A small fee is collected from He moves through the wreck common sense of his custom- each tour participant and pre- without stirring up the mud, ers, he allows a lot of diving sented to the chief. constantly reaching into the freedom. Besides the Toa Maru, unlikeliest places and pulling the sites we enjoyed included Uepi Island is not for every- out gas masks, pistols, lanterns, Grand Central Station (a Gizo one. But if you’re comfortable in version of Palau’s Blue Cor- remote destinations, can handle ner), Naru Wall, and Plum a little risk, and have a strong Pudding Island (where John F. need to visit the edge of civiliza- Kennedy swam ashore after his tion, this is a good place to go. PT- 109 was rammed). At Grand Central Station, we were Big City Gizo I believe that undue privileged to watch a midwater veracity has no place on collision between a reef shark After Uepi (another 1-hour dive vacations and and an eagle ray. Both were flight through another rain- therefore am not overly watching us too closely as they storm, but this time in a cruised from opposite but DeHavilland Twin Otter with concerned about the quickly closing directions along weather radar), Gizo seemed truth of the tales Danny the reef. After a head-on im- like the big city — and com- shared with us. pact, both quickly scattered in pared to Uepi, it is. We were obvious embarrassment. We met at the airport by the owner also saw a school of ten very of Adventure Sports, a raggedy, large humphead wrasses look- disreputable-looking guy ing like a herd of cows or small named Danny Kennedy. If you cars cruising the reef. ever make it to Gizo, reward yourself and dive with Danny ampoules, sake bottles, rifles, We stayed in a four-room guest Kennedy. It’s been 10 years tea sets — then, just as quickly, lodge right across the street since the last divemaster with hiding them again. About the from Adventure Sports. It was Danny’s charming goofiness time you figure he’s shown you clean and acceptable. Breakfast left Grand Cayman; you find everything but the kitchen sink, and dinner were provided every these guys only on the edge of he leads you into the galley. day and were also adequate, the civilized world. I strongly Diving with Danny Kennedy is but nothing worth crowing believe that undue veracity has like being 10 years old and about. Rooms are bright and no place on dive vacations and diving with Ronald McDonald. airy. The bathroom’s down the therefore am not overly con- hall (but no hot water). cerned about the truth of the And in fact, the 446-foot Toa tales Danny shared with us Maru is impressive. Considered One night, Danny invited all during the week. They were to be one of the top five wreck the people diving with him to a excellent entertainment. dives in the world, she lies on home-cooked meal at his place. her starboard side at about 90 (Imagine that on Grand Cay- Danny runs his operation feet. Her hatches are open, man!) Fifteen of us crowded cleanly and with a minimum of allowing for easy penetration. into Danny’s small house and fuss, given the crowded condi- She’s also inhabited by a school enjoyed steak, chicken, rice, tions in his small shop and the of flashlight fish, and Danny beer, and after dinner, excel- amount of morning activity. He makes sure that divers know lent coffee and a small snifter generally operates two skiffs this and have a chance to turn of Baileys.... Sheesh. This is and has a competent staff of off their lights while swimming away from it all. boat handlers and divemasters. through sections of the wreck A look at his O2 system (a rusty that are dark as night. The Gizo has a certain turn-of- C-bottle and a Bend-Eez streaks of luminescence as the the-20th-century, robust, dusty adapter) should be enough to fish swim by are indeed mes- seaport charm. People walk up keep you on the cautious side. merizing. and down the dirt streets at all

10 © 1994 Elephant Socks Publishing, Inc. hours. Most smile if you catch Check dive travel wholesalers feet. The climate is tropical, their eye. Excellent local for package prices. with temperatures of 70–90°F carvers offer some exquisite year round. The annual rainfall pieces worked out of native General: The Solomon ranges from 60 to 200 inches, hardwoods or river rock. Fish Islands are an archipelago so one way or another, you’ll themes predominate. covering 10,639 square miles in probably get wet. the southwest Pacific about Adventure Sports is not for 1,200 miles northeast of Austra- Health & Welfare: For infor- the weak or the disorganized. lia. Part of the British Com- mation on how to protect You’re expected to load your monwealth, the islands are a yourself from the extremely own equipment into the boat, parliamentary democracy with high incidence of malaria in and also to unload it, rinse it a population of 350,000. The the Solomons (not to mention off, and store it back in the dive capital is Honiara on the island other horrid tropical diseases shop after your dive. If any- of . like dengue fever), call the thing breaks, there’s no fully Center for Disease Control’s stocked service center available; Each island in the Solomon international come prepared. The boat is a group contains a mountain travelers hotline at long, narrow aluminum skiff range; some peaks reach 4,000 404-332-4559. with no easy way to reenter once you have back-rolled into the water. Boat rides can be an hour or more, and wet.

If you’re prepared for all of this, it’s great place to go. I wanted a look at the edge of the civilized planet, and I got a room with an edge-front view. Flotsam & Jetsam Reservations: Uepi can be contacted through Tropical Paradise in Australia, phone/fax The Anti-Shark Pittstown Point, a small resort 011-61-77-75-1323. Adventure on the island, although the Sports on Gizo can be reached at An electronic anti-shark resort wasn't really set up for 011-677-60253 or fax 011-677- device being tested in South divers. With its nearby runway, 60297. Island Dreams Travel Africa shows promise of being it catered mainly to families (800-346-6116) offers a 7 nights very effective in repelling with private planes. of lodging/6 days of diving sharks by leaking a specific with Adventure Sports on Gizo kind of electricity into the sea Pittstown Point is now Caribe for $795, which includes air- around the diver or surfer. Bay and things seem to have port transfers, daily breakfast, changed drastically. It’s being diving, taxes, and some tours. I’ve felt like I must have been promoted not only as a dive wearing just such a device on resort but for its natural park/ Air: Fares fluctuate but run some dives, when everyone else preserve research program that around $1,100 to $1,500. It’s sees the sharks except me. aims to prove the only way to not always easy to get around However, I suppose I wouldn’t enjoy our marine world is the islands once you arrive. mind flicking the on switch of without unduly harming or Solomon Air changes schedules an anti-shark appliance if I had disturbing it. continuously, searching for to float on the surface for any elusive profit. Be prepared to length of time. Exactly what this means, we’ll wait. The Solomons are a good have to find out, but I’ve heard add-on for a Fiji trip, with Crooked Island that diving guests will be able incredibly low fares to the to participate in marine studies Solomons out of Nandi. A few reports have trickled in if they so desire by reporting over the past couple of years on marine life they see. The On Uepi, bungalows run $51 recounting excellent diving program is being set up under a day (double occupancy) and around Crooked Island in the the auspices of the Bahamas meals (the only game in town) Bahamas. I’ve been trying to National Trust, the Aquarium $40 a day. Dives are $32 per. coax an editor down to of the Americas, the Virginia

© 1994 Elephant Socks Publishing, Inc. 11