The Voyage of the 'Eira' and Mr. Leigh Smith's Arctic Discoveries in 1880 Author(s): C. R. Markham Source: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography, New Monthly Series, Vol. 3, No. 3 (Mar., 1881), pp. 129-150 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1800456 . Accessed: 16/06/2014 04:36

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This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions PROCEEDINGS

OF THE

ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY

AND MONTHLY RECOED OF GEOGEAPHY.

The Voyage of the 'Eira' and Mr. Leigh Smith's Arctie Discoveries in 1880. By C. E. Markham, c.b., f.r.s., Secretary r.g.s. (Read at theEvening Meeting, January 17th, 1881.) Map, p. 192.

The Arctic Expedition undertaken by Mr. Leigh Smith, during the summer of last year, has met with unparalleled success. The discovery of a navigable route to Franz-Josef Land, and of the coast trending west? ward and then northward, will in all probability open a new era in the history of Polar discovery. Mr. Leigh Smith has always been of opinion that discoveries are to be made, in the icy seas, by perseverance, and by watching for and promptly seizing opportunities. Accordingly, his plan this year was to make a general examination of the ice over a wide area, to ascertain the character of the season, and then, guided by the indications, to make an attempt in the direction which appeared to be most promising. He caused a steam vessel to be built at Peterhead last winter, suitable for ice navigation, which was named the Eira. She is 360 tons burden, builders' measurement (260 gross register, 180 net register), and 50 horse-power (125 feet long by 25 feet beam). Captain David Gray, the well-known commander of the Peterhead whaler Hope, afforded valuable assistance in helping to draw up the specification, and in watching the progress of the work. The Eira was manned by twenty- five souls, all told. The gallant little band of expiorers consisted of Mr. Leigh Smith himself; Mr. W. G. A. Grant, who had made three previous voyages to the Arctic Seas; Dr. Neale, the surgeon ; Captain Lofley, of Hull, the master; two mates, two engineers, nnd seventeen men. At Lerwick, which place they reached on June 20th, four Shetlanders com? pleted the complement. The first thing that was projected, was a visit to and thorough No. III.?March 1881.] K

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 130 THE VOYAGE OF THE

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880. 131 about lat. 77? 10', long. 40? E. Steaming along the floe edge to the northward, they were in 79? 4' N. at noon on August 8th, and a few hours later made fast to a hummocky floe. Near them a large iceberg was grounded, the first they had seen in this direction. The depth was 48 fathoms, and the height of the berg, by aneroid, 200 feet. On the 9th, Mr. Smith continued to push into the pack, amongst heavy hum? mocky ice, with dense fog, and reached 79? 35' N.; but on the following day it became advisable to work southwards again, to get clear. A gale of wind drove them far to the south, but on the 13th it had moderated, and at noon they were in 78? 18' N., and on the meridian of 49? 10' E. Steering north-east, and steaming about six knots, the Eira sighted land at eight in the morning of the 14th of August, on about the 54th meridian east of Greenwich. A more northerly course was now taken, and at four in the afternoon the ship was made fast to a piece of land floe attached to a small island, which was named May Island, after Captain W. W. May, r.n., an old Arctic officer. Franz-Josef Land was reached! The problem was solved, and the route was proved to be easily navigable, which will surely lead future expiorers to new and important discoveries in the far north. During the day they had passed through some loose ice, and by many bergs. These icebergs were very large and, as a rule, quite unlike those met with in Davis Straits and Baffin's Bay. The latter are generally angular and peaked, while those of Franz-Josef Land are nearly all vast masses, and quite flat on the top, like the bergs of the Antarctic Eegions The average height above the water is from 150 to 250 feet. Payer says that he saw many, offFranz-Josef Land, which measured 220 feet.* Several walrus were seen on some ice to the eastward, and Mr. Leigh Smith, with Captain Lofley and the Doctor went in chase, while Mr. Grant and the Shetlander, Peter, landed and climbed to the summit of the island, a height of some 200 feet. It proved to be a mass of basalt. The scene was desolate, but very grand. Below them lay the ship anchored to the floe, and far away in the distance the walrus boats could be seen. To the north was the coast of land to the west of M'Clintock Island, since named after Sir Joseph Hooker, enveloped in mist, with loose ice floating through the intervening strait. It was calm, and all was still until the silence was broken by the ivory gulls (Pagophila ebumea) which Peter had disturbed on their nests. Seven of them were taken alive, of which one survives, and is now in the Zoological Gardens. They had built near the top of a low basaltic cliff, and the young ones were tilted out of their nests on to the snow beneath. On this island there was a quantity of drift-wood, and one very large stem of a tree. During the day seventeen walruses were captured, and many more might easily have been taken. "Next day the ice closed in round the island, and the Eira anchored * I. p. 16. i; 2

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 132 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'EIRA' to a very large floe?so large, indeed, that they could not see across it from the crow's nest?some 10 miles south of their previous anchorage. On the 16th, at four in the afternoon, the Eira was offa long island to the westward of the ivory gulls' roost, named Etheridge Island, after tbe President of the Geological Society. Mr. Leigh Smith, and Grant, with the Doctor and a boatswain, landed, after hauling their boat on the ice, and climbed to the summit for a round of angles, depositing a record. But as they were coming down again towards the shore, they saw their boat, which had been hauled up on the ice, quickly drifting away. They observed that the piece of ice was drifting towards another point of loose ice, and that if they could reach it in time, they might yet secure their boat. There was a long stretch of ice to run over; moreover, ice hum- mocks and berg pieces hid them from the ship at the time, so that if they had not been able to get to the boat, those on board would not have known what had become of them. However, when they had got to the end of the fast ice, they easily reached the boat by fjumping from one piece of floating ice to another, and were soon on board the Eira again. During the night of August 16th there was mist, with occasional snow squalls, the wind being strong from the east But next morning the weather cleared up, and a grand spectacle presented itself. This was no less than a fight between a large floe and an iceberg. Generally a floe will break off at the edge when it comes into collision with a berg, and in many instances, if the floe is not thick, a berg will force its way right through, cutting and tearing up the ice as it moves along. In the present case, the floe simply hove up the iceberg, and sent the huge mass right over. No one can imagine the power of ice without beholding its effects. After steaming right round Etheridge Island, to avoid the ice tbe Eira proceeded through the mist towards the point, which was named Barents Hook by tbe Dutch in the previous year. It is supposed to be the extreme western point that they saw when they sighted Franz- Josef Land on September 7th, 1879. Here there is a remarkable formation of columnar basalt, like the Giant's Causeway. Passing Barents Hook at half-past six in the evening, the Eira commenced the discovery and exploration of entireiy new land. During the night Mr. Leigh Smith and Mr. Grant went on shore, and walked along the coast to the westward until the way was blocked by a glacier. The coast-line consists of glaciers, with dark frowning cliffs at intervals, about 1200 feet high, and flat topped. On tbe slopes, formed by the crumbling and splitting away of rock from above, there was soil where grasses and various Arctic plants were growing. Mosses were espe? cially abundant in tbe low swampy ground below the cliffs. On the 18th they continued to steam westward, and, rounding the point of an island, they found themselves in a snug harbour formed by two islands, where there was good holding ground in five to seven

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This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880. 133 " " fathoms. This place received the appropriate name of Eira Harbour (80? 4' K, 48? 40' E.). To the north of the anchorage there were high cliffs forming a huge amphitheatre, below which was a flat plain about a mile long and 600 or 700 yards in width. In some parts it was hard and solid as if paved, in others soft and mossy. The cliff to the east? ward was a capital landmark for any one entering the harbour, as it was surmounted by basaltic peaks, and was, in fact, the only land, with any? thing like a peak, along the whole coast. Under this cliff,and on the steep slope descending to the plain, there were many plants, including a good deal of coarse grass; while just above the slope, among the rocks, there was a rookery of little auks or rotjes. The island to the south of the harbour is quite flat, except at the south-eastern extremity, where there is a hill 1400 feet high. On its south slope some plants were growing, otherwise this southern island appeared to be devoid of vegetation. It was named Bell Island, from the shape of the hill on it. In the morning of the 20th three bears were seen on the shore, a mother and two cubs, slowly wandering about and sniffing the sand. An empty box had been left on shore, and they were seen walking round and examining it. They did not seem to take any notice of the ship. The plan of attack was soon arranged. Two boats were lowered, one re? maining to the left of tbe bears a little off shore, while the other rowed away to land the attacking party at some distance. After landing, the assailants walked towards the bears, and, as their backs were turned, they easily got pretty close. As soon, however, as they saw their enemies, all three bears made a rush to the water. This sealed their fate. They were doomed, the mother to death, and her two children to an aimless life of inactivity at the Zoological Gardens. The two boats closed in; a shot through the head ended the life of the mother, and saved her from witnessing tbe degrading spectacle which followed. The men made quick work of the affair. The boats closed in with the young bears between them, and in a very short time each boat had a bear to tow it back to the ship. When they arrived alongside, the ropes passed round their bodies were handed up on deck, and the cubs soon followed. Casks were procured, the ends of the ropes were passed through the bung-holes from inside, and the bears hauled in, amidst much growling and snarling. The blacksmith then secured iron bars across the heads, and the casks were lashed on each side of the deck, where they remained until the ship arrived at Peterhead. The bears were always more or less noisy, except in bad weather, and they never got tame. On the 21st, Mr. Leigh Smith, wishing to explore the neighbourhood of Eira Harbour, got under weigh, and started up a fiord to the west? ward, apparently a continuation of the Markham Sound of Payer, seeing many walruses. Continuing up the fiord, a point was reached whence a view was obtained of an opening to the eastward, and the place was seen where the Eira was anchored on the 14th. This portion of the

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 134 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'EIRA' land was thus proved to be an island. The channel was named after Captain Be Bruyne, the leader of the Dutch Expedition of 1879; and the large island received the name of Northbrooh, in honour of the late President of our Society, and present First Lord of the Admiralty. In returning, an attempt was made to secure a young walrus alive. But the mother fought frantically, and guarded her offspring with such resolution that they were obliged to kill her, when the young one immediately decamped. Directly the mother is shot dead, the baby walrus always hurries away, but so long as the mother is alive, even if wounded, the young one remains by her. In this case there was a hard fight, and the boat reached the ship in a sinking condition, the walrus having made holes in it with her tusks, below the water-line. After this little episode, the Eira was steered westward along the coast, towards the most distant point seen from the harbour. But she was stopped by pack ice at a point where there were great numbers of looms. Being unable to proceed further, they returned to Eira Harbour. The scenery up the fiords was wild and desolate in the extreme. Nearly the whole coast-line was occupied by glacier after glacier rolling down to the sea. At long intervals, a black headland abruptly rose through the ice. At noon of the 22nd, Mr. Grant went away for a long walk, and made a collection of plants, which, as a first instalment, partially illustrates the flora of this new region. His collection consists of nine species of flowering plants, two grasses, and a lichen. The former include the Banunculus nivalis, a very common and widely distributed Arctic plant; the yellow poppy, Papaver nudicaule, which Dr. Brown called the hardiest of all the Arctic plants, and one of the most widely distributed; four saxifrages, S. nivalis, S. ccespitosa, S. cernua, and S. oppositifolia, a little Stellaria, the Gerastium alpinum, and the scurvy grass, Gochlearia fenestrata. The two grasses were Alopecurus alpinus and Poa flexuosa, the lichen Peltidea aphthosa. All these flowering plants and grasses also belong to Greenland, and all were also collected by the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76 up and beyond Smith Sound. All, except the Stellaria, were collected by Captain Markham in Novaya Zemlya. So that they belong to widely spread Arctic species. Three oi them (S. oppositifolia, Gerastium alpinum, and Papaver nudicaule) are mentioned by Lieutenant Payer, as having been seen by him. Mr. Grant walked along the shore to the eastward until finally stopped by a glacier. There was a regular beach, and a good deal of drift-wood, inciuding a spar 8 feet long, which had evidently belonged to some ship. There were also the backbones and jaws of two whales. In the evening a party accompanied Mr. Grant to the summit of the hill overhanging the harbour, which proved to be 1040 feet above the sea (by aneroid). On the slope of this hill a good deal of petrified wood was collectedj and some other fossils.

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The lowest rocks belong to the Oxford clay, and are represented, in the collection brought home in the Eira, by two belemnites. Above the Oxford clay the rock is of the cretaceous period, to which the fossil coni? ferous wood belongs, including one very perfect cone. There are also slabs with impressions of plants. Over all there has been an overflow of basalt and lava forming a cap, as on the island of Disco. The collec? tion of fossils brought home by Captain Markham from Novaya Zemlya, proved the existence of carboniferous rocks there, which dip under the more recent formations of Franz-Josef Island. Exactly the same carboni? ferous fossils were found by Sir George Nares's Expedition at Cape Joseph Henry; and these discoveries point to the probable existence of a carboniferous series of rocks in the unknown region nearer the Pole, on which the cretaceous rocks of Franz-Josef Land are resting. The complete geological examination of the unknown region is one out of many important results to be derived from further Polar discovery. The view from the top of the hill showed that there was extensive pack to the south and south-west, but none in the immediate neighbourhood of the harbour. The prospect was very fine. To the south the open sea, while to east and west extended snow-capped capes and headlands, and to the north was an interminable glacier. On the 24th another attempt, this time a successful one, was made to round the western headland, now called Cape Grant. The Eira steamed away full speed, and, after passing through a belt of loose ice, a fresh headland opened out beyond the furthest hitherto seen, and was named Cape Crowther, after the mate of the Eira. Soon afterwards another came in sight, bearing north-west about 12 miles, named Cape Neale; and at 9 p.m. they were stopped by ice, and anchored to a large floe. Thence the land was seen trending away north-west. The furthest point seen, being over 40 miles away, was named Cape Lofley. The furthest position reached by the ship was in 80? 19' N. lat. and 44? 52' E. long. It then became dull, with mist and snow, the wind being strong from the north-west. The tide seemed to be running to the west. The extent of new coast-line discovered and explored was 110 miles, while with the extent seen to the most distant point it was at least 150. The most western extreme of the south coast was reached, and it was ascertained that the coast trended thence in a north-westerly direction for an unknown distance. But the great size of the icebergs, and the extent of glacier, are indications that Franz-Josef Land is of vast extent, possibly almost continental in its proportions. The night of the 24th was wild, and the scene was very dismal. Peering through the snow and mist were two or three bergs, and the ?desolate land to the north and east. The Eira was anchored to a floe, which drifted slowly in a southerly direction. Next morning they east off, passed a small island at the western entrance of a large bay?

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since named Gray Bay, and steaming up the bay, anchored to a land floe near the head of it. This great bay was surrounded nearly on all sides by glaciers, and was frequented by many saddle-back seals and walruses. While the men were flinching some walruses about two miles from the ship, a sound was suddenly heard as though a whole battery of artillery had opened fire at once. On looking up, they saw that a large piece of the glacier at the head of the bay had broken off. The roaring continued for some time, and though the distance was between two and three milesr the whole floe began to crack up all round them. The same thing hap? pened where Mr. Leigh Smith was standing, near the floe edge; They could see the huge mass of blue ice slowly rise and fall, until at last it found its floating level in the water; and all the time it was sending forth a series of resounding noises like thunder, making the water rise and fall in rolling waves, thus cracking and splitting the floe. Some foxes were seen on the shore of this bay, and ivory gulls nesting on a cliff. On the 26th and 27th a furious gale was blowing from the N.N.W. with much snow; and on the 28th, when it was still strong, but mode- rating, they steamed slowly eastward along the coast. In passing out of the bay, two right whales were seen, one of great size. On approaching Eira Harbour it was found that, in their absence, it had become full of drift ice; so the ship continued her course eastwards until an anchorage was found in a small bay formed by two glacier points a little to the west of Cape Barents. The gale continued to blow with great violence until midnight, but it moderated towards morning, and the anchor was weighed. Proceeding eastward, it was found that M Clintock: and the off-lyingislands were surrounded with ice. At 8 a.m. of the 30th the Eira was close under Cape Tegetthoff, with pack ice to the east and south. Coasting along Wilczek Island, where a cairn was seen, they arrived at the spot where the Austrian exploring ship was abandoned, fast locked in ice. Now there was open water on the same spot, though fast ice was seen to the eastward. The weather continued to be very threatening, so Mr. Leigh Smith resolved to take his farewell of Franz- Josef Land for this year, while it was yet possible, and to make an attempt to reach Wiche's Land, on the eastern side of Spitzbergen. During the last two weeks of August he had explored the southern coast of Franz-Josef Land and its off-lying islands, landing at various ?points, ascertaining the general characteristics, and observing the physical aspects of the region, both at sea and on land, while Mr. Grant took numerous photographs, and made botanical and geological collec? tions. A meteorological journal was also kept. Above all, the most western point of the south coast was reached, and it was ascertained that the land trended northwards for an unknown distance. There are several peculiarities which distinguish the newly discovered tract from other Arctic lands, and which render its further and more complete

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examination very desirable. Among these are the ice-caps on all the islands, the flat hill-tops which Payer compares with the ambas of Abyssinia, and the large flat-topped icebergs. A very important question also requires solution, and calls for further exploration, with reference to the direction of the drift of these bergs, which would appear to be to the northward. An interesting collection of invertebrate animals was made in the sea which washes the coast of the newly discovered land. Mr. Leigh Smith has presented it to the British Museum. A notice of the Crustacea ' has just been published by Mr. Miers, in the Annals and Magazine of Natural History.' Among them there is a new genus of Pycnogonida, or sea spiders, a really very interesting form which has never been de? scribed before, and which Mr. Miers has named AnomorhynchusSmithii, after its discoverer. These sea spiders are found in the British seas, of very small size. The larger ones have been collected in the ; but this new genus is peculiar to the sea of Franz-Josef Land. The collection of Polyzoa has been entrusted to Mr. S. 0. Eidley, who will determine them, and the Mollusca were referred to Mr. E. A. Smith. The latter are all well-known Arctic forms, but they are, of course, interesting as coming from a new locality. Although Arctic forms are not so varied and numerous as those which frequent warmer regions, the study of their distribution with reference to currents, and other circum? stances, is of great scientific importance. Arctic exploration is distinguished not only for the variety and im? portance of its scientific results, but also for its practical utility. It has not only added to the sum of human knowledge, but it has also increased the wealth of those nations which have wisely engaged in it. The explorers of Hudson's Bay led the way to a lucrative fur trade; those of Spitzbergen, of Davis Strait, and Baffin's Bay opened up other great sources of wealth ; and the disco\'erers of New Siberia enriched their countrymen by a trade in fossil ivory. Mr. Leigh Smith, in discovering the south-western coast of Franz-Josef Land, saw at least two right whales, and a sea abounding in other oil-yielding animals. As many as twenty- seven walruses were taken, and, if their capture had been the object of the voyage, many more could have been obtained. Great numbers of seals were also seen. The number of bears shot was thirteen. Like all other northern discoveries, those of Mr. Leigh Smith combine results of scientific interest and importance with practical utility. It is not at all unlikely that the practical utility of Mr. Leigh Smith's discoveries may be demonstrated in tlie near future. The Nor- wegians have now been frequenting the walrus grounds of Spitzbergen and Novaya Zemlya for a considerable number of years, and there are distinct signs of those localities having been overworked. The hardy Norsemen will eagerly welcome a new region for walrus hunting, such as is offered by the southern shores of Franz-Josef Land; and even

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 138 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'EIRA' whalers may not improbably follow in the same direction. The only difficulty which may cause them to hesitate is the supposed obstruction of the approach, by ice floes. Expiorers, by annual reconnaissances, will throw a flood of light on that question, and, as in so many other instances, Arctic discovery will prove to be not only important in increasing the sum of human knowledge, but also in opening up new sources of commercial industry. There yet remained a short navigable period in September, and Mr. Leigh Smith devoted it to an attempt to reach Wiche's Land from the eastward. Thomas Edge, while in command of a fleet belonging to the Muscovy Company in the year 1617, "discovered to the eastward of Spitzbergen, as far to the northward as 79?, an island which he named Wiche's Island," after Mr. Eichard Wiche, one of the foremost of the merchant adventurers. It was never seen again until Mr. Birkbeck descried it on the horizon in 1864. Yon Heuglin, in 1870, climbed a high hill on Edge's Island, the south-eastern of the Spitzbergen group, and sighted it. He improperly gave a new name?King Karl Land?to an island which had been discovered and named by Captain Edge 253 years before, and sighted by Mr. Birkbeck six years previously. But neither Birkbeck nor Yon Heuglin reached it* This feat was reserved for the Norwegian captains Altmann, Johnsen, and Nilsen, who, in the summer of 1872, found the sea on the eastern side of Spitzbergen freer from ice than it had been known for twenty years. Generally the eastern side of Spitzbergen is believed to be closely packed with ice, and Mr. Leigh Smith did another useful piece of service to geography in examining the eastern edge of the pack in this direction. From the lst to the 10th of September search was made by him for an opening in the ice, so as to proceed westward in the direction of Wiche's Island. During the whole time the Eira was kept pretty close to the pack, following it right down to 75? 30' N. on the meridian of 46i?. The pack was very close. Several times they thought they had found an opening, but it always turned out to be a deep bight; and on the 10th they were off Hope Island. The weather now became very bad, mists with strong gales, and the nights were getting dark. A course was therefore shaped for Stor Fjord, in the south of Spitzbergen, and steaming right up it, the Eira was anchored in Genevra Bay on the 17th of September. Next morning was lovely, and, climbing up a hill, the expiorers got a view of Wiche's Island in the far distance, and no intervening floe ice visible, though there were many bergs. On the 20th a strong west wind sprang up, and the Eira steamed southwards towards Walter Thymen's Straits, anchoring at Lee's Fore- land. There are numerous rocks and reefs off Walter Thymen's Straits, which are not shown on the Admiralty Chart. In fact, the chart is very inaccurate, and there are many places, which are frequented by

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880. 139 vessels every year, that are quite incorrectly laid down. On the 22nd the voyage home was commenced, and on the 24th the Eira reached Hammerfest, where a pilot was taken on board. There was a heavy sea, and the ship rolled so much that the pilot could not come on board in the usual way. So he made himself fast to a rope that was thrown to him, jumped from his boat into the sea, and allowed himself to be hauled on board like a sack of potatoes. At Hammerfest some vessels were at anchor, which had been engaged in attempts to reach the Yenisei. It had not been a favourable year. The Bahlmann and Luise had in vain attempted all the straits leading into the Kara Sea, and had even been round the northern extremity of Novaya Zemlya, but without success. The Neptune had, however, been more fortunate. She arrived at Hammerfest with a full cargo of wheat and rye from the Obi. Captain Dahlmann was convinced that a vessel properly constructed for ice navigation, like the Eira, could reach the mouths of the Obi and Yenisei every year, and make the trade a certainty. But if merchants persist in sending unsuitable iron vessels, unprepared for meeting the ice, they must expect failure. To this reason alone is the failure of steamers to reach the Yenisei, in 1879 and 1880, to be attributed. The Eira, while in charge of a pilot, had the misfortune to run on a rock near the anchorage of Govesholmen. Luckily it was fine weather, and she was hauled off by the Nordstjernen, a powerful Norwegian mail- boat. On October 5th they anchored at Bodo, and sailing on the 7th, reached the Shetlands on the 11th. The Shetland portion of the crew was landed at Lerwick, and Peterhead was reached on the 12th of October. Thus ended this memprable and most successful cruise. The crew of the Eira behaved admirably throughout, displaying much zeal, and fully entering into the spirit of the enterprise. The voyage of the Eira must be pronounced to have been the most important summer cruise that has ever been made in the Arctic Eegions. Mr. Leigh Smith's discoveries in 1880 will form a fresh starting-point for future Polar discovery; and they thus open a new and, let us hope, a brilliant and fruitful chapter in the glorious history of Arctic Exploration.

c Course of the Eira,' and Meteorological Notes of the Voyage ; Extracts from Mr. Granfs Journal. June 28th, 1880.?In sigbtof Jan Mayen ; passed ice, and ice encirclestbe land ; it is very low tbis year. In 1878 (in tbe Willem Barents) we saw none at all. Weather beautiful. June 29th.?Anchored offthe bay betweenEgg Island and tbe next point E.; in the afternoonhad to clear out quickly as the ice was comingrapidly into tbe bay. We steamed out throughloose ice to the N.E., wherewe foundtbe main pack, and

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 140 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'EIRA' had to go in a south-easterlydirection and steamhard all nightto get clearand avoid beingbeset. Mist. June SOth.?All night working through loose ice, and we had to work a good deal to eastwardsbefore we could clear a point of the main pack. The ice here is certainlyvery low this year; in 1878 we saw no ice at Jan Mayen, and met it much higher to the N.E. At 9 p.m. we are steeringin a more north-easterlydirection along the pack edge and throughvery loose small ice. Mist. July lst.?All day steamingand sailing through loose ice in a north-easterly direction; wind northerly; sea-watertemperature above 33? F.; air 34?'5. Mist. July 2nd and 3rd.?Light north-easterlybreeze on 2nd; nearly calm on 3rd. We were in a deep bight in the ice, steaming fromone piece of ice to anotherand dodgingabout. We were several miles in the ice among loose detached floes,which would soon close up and forminto a pack, and on night of 3rd made forthe open water again, and lay at the edge of the ice ali night. Weather very beautiful. July 4th.?Wind fromW.; sailed towardsthe N. Mist and fog. July 5th.?Fresh W. wind. In about meridian of Greenwich, and hope to-morrowto be in lat. 75?. Fog. July 6th.?Sailed N. and then steeredN.W. a bit till we reached the ice edge again, then stationary,drifting at the edge. Fog. Temperatureof air about 35?, but at night falls to about 32?. July 1th.?Still driftingabout, until 1 p.m.,then steamedhalf speed in a north- westerlydirection, dodging about among the loose floes. Fog. July 8th.?Full speed ahead throughfog and among ice till 2 a.m., then anchored to a large floe; weather cleared, and plenty of ice seen, but of a loose description. As a rule, the floesare flat and not hummocky. At 8.30 a.m. steamed offin a westerlydirection; weatherthick again. At 10.45 a.m. anchored to a very large floe. Wind sprang up from N. Soon after 2 p.m.left the floe, and continued edgingon towardsthe land. We are a long way in the ice now, must be a good bit morethan 100 miles. 10 p.m.; the ice is closer now,and the floesvery large, leaving only lanes of water between. Going full speed ahead. July 9th.?Steamed onwardstill 4 a.m., when we made fast to a floeagain. At 9 a.m. start off again. Weather clear. Ice much more hummocky, Soon after noon anchoredto a large fieldof ice. At 4 p.m. started again throughnarrow lanes of water,working northwards. Weather lovely. Position at noon 76? 12' N. lat., 5? 50' W. long.; about 70 miles in the pack. At 10 p.m.anchored to floe as fog came on again. July 10th.?Thick fog until 2 p.m.,then steamed S.E. througheasy sailing iee and big pools. In the afternoonceased steaming,and sailed in a northerlydirection throughloose ice. Mist. Jidy 11th.?At 8 a.m. commencedsteaming again, as the wind died away, and then came lightlyfrom N. Weather foggy,with tendencyto clear at times. Ice loose and generallyin small lumps. Worked on northwardsall the afternoon,and at 7 p.m. sighted the Eclipse and Hope. July 12th.?Morning foggy. At noon all three went N. a bit. At 3 p.m. anchoredat a big floe. We learnt fromthe whalers that the ice is fardown Spitz? bergenthis year. At 6 p.m.a snow-stormcame on, and continuedwell into the next morning. July 13^.?Parted with the whalers at 8 a.m. Throughout the day have been sailing N., throughloose ice; hardly any wind. Mist until well into the afternoon; finecalm night. July 14th.?Morning fair; very fine from 4 p.m.till midnight; sea calm. In the afternoongot out of the ice and steamed along edge in a N. and N.E. direction.

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880. 141 and at 8.30 p.m. sighted land, being most likely Prince Charles Foreland, some 100 miles off. There is right ahead of us a long point of ice, which may perhaps extend to the land. In 1878 therewas nothinglike so much ice out here. July 15th.?Bright clear day; wind light. Ice running in bights and seems prettynear the land ahead. At 8 p.m. we were steeringtowards the N.W. point of Spitzbergen. Ice to W. packed. July 16th.?Misty morning,but afterwardsbetter. Were dodgingalong ice edge and across bights,and in the afternoonwere nearing AmsterdamIsland. Had a freshsoutherly breeze. About 8 p.m.Cloven Cliffbore due S. as we were steering E., and 5 miles off. We are some 28 miles fromMoffen Island, and though there does not seem to be much ice as far as we can see to the E., there is a good deal to the N., and it seems heavy and closelypacked. At 10.30 p.m. fog came on quite thick, and we had to stop. July 17th.?Fog cleared a bit at about 1 a.m. At 8 a.m. bored into loose ice, which was however prettyclose together,and remained stuck in it till past noon, then made towardsWelcome Point, and anchoredat 6 p.m. to tbe land ice offRed Beach. The fast land ice was mostlypiled up in small bummocks, and was quite tightand solid, caused by great pressure. July 18th.?Morning bright. We could not get N. in this direction; so at noon we steamed off,and at 8 p.m.anchored at AmsterdamIsland. Afterleaving the ice a gale of wind fromtbe S.W. came on, and we bad a hard job to steam against it. Wind too high to land. Jidy 19th.?Noon, weathermore gloomy,wind still high,and continuedblowing hard all night. July 20th.?At 1.30 p.m.weighed, and made forFair Haven; weather seems to be gettingfine again. We could not get to an anchorage as the ice was fast and jammed tight in betweenthe islands and on to the land. This is most unusual, and seldom bappens here at this time of the year. Wind still strongfrom S.,so steamed back to our formeranchorage. July 21st.?Weather very fine. Ice comingdown fast and lying fromW.S.W. towardstbe N. July 22nd.?At 10.30 a.m. weighed and proceeded out of South Gat, a good swell on. Ice rightdown on Danes Island and the rocks on tbe S. point. Kobbe Bay quite closed. A passage southwards,but seems to be ice towards the S. too. We steamed,but findinga gale of wind blowing and nasty sea on, fromthe S., we made into Magdalena Bay and anchored. Blew hard all night; high sea from S. Ice now packed and shuttingin South Gat. July 23rd.?All morningfine overhead, but gale as hard as ever. From 6 p.m. till next morning,mist and drizzle. July 24^.?Bright sun, but wind blowing from S. as hard as ever. No ice seen to W. A good deal of ice had gone into SmeerenburgBay. Evening cloudy, and wind in hard gusts. Air temperatureabout 50? F. July 25th.?Morning misty; wind evidently less. At 7 p.m. weighed, and proceededout to sea under topsails, jib, &c, edging westward away fromthe shore. July 26th.?Morning foggy. Sailed S., passing the N. head of Prince Charles Foreland in the afternoon,some 5 miles E. At 5 p.m.weather fine. Wind all day fromN. Sea moderate. July 27th.?Soon after midnight the breeze died away, and we remained stationarysome 10 miles off Prince Charles Foreland. Afternoonvery fine. At 5 p.m.a breeze sprangup fromS.E., and continuedup to midnightfrom E. Jidy 28th.?Off Bei Sound. Morning calm. Weather fine and warm. Very light breeze at night.

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July 29th.?-Calm. Weather warm and pleasant. July 30th.?Off Horn Sound in the afternoon. It became mistybefore noon, and soon afterwe had a thick fogwhich lasted all night; no wind. At 10.30 a.m. till 3.30 p.m.steamed S.E. towards South Cape, then stopped as fogwas so thick. At 8.30 p.m. started again, and by 11 p.m. were offthe Cape. Wind inclinedto come a little fromN.W. July 31st.?Rounded South Cape at midnight. At 10 a.m. steamedE. At noon met a little loose ice, and towards Hope Island ifcgradually became closer,till at 9 p.m. we were stopped,as the ice ahead was packed, and so we had to steam S.W. Weather lovely; clear and calm. Hope Island about 25 miles off. August lst.?Mist and fogall day. Have been steamingthrough loose ice, [and along edge of pack and across bights all day, mostlyin a S.E. direction,and often southerlyto clear point ends of ice. Weather clearedat midnight; open water to S. Aug. 2nd.?From 4 a.m. till 2.30 p.m. steered an easterlycourse. Ice N. of us, open water S. At 2.30 made N. again under sail, steeringN.N.E., but at 8 p.m. had to tack and go S.S.E., as ice again ahead. Weather very fineall day. Aug. 3rd.?Strong wind fromN.E.; a nasty sea ; very thick fog. Clearedjust before'midnight,and sea went down. Lat. at noon 75? 19' N. Course S.S.E. Aug. 4th.?Morning fine. Course E.N.E. In afternoona very thick mist came on and continuedup to midnight. Barometer29*26, falling. Aug. 5th.?Dense wet fog all day. Course N.E., with a south-westerlyair. Position 75? 50' N. lat., 34? 10' E. long. Heavy swell fromS. Aug. 6th.?Fog all day until 11 p.m., when we came upon the pack again. At noon, position 76? 28' N. lat., 37? 10' E. long.; at midnightsome 50 miles N.E. The pack bears N.W. of us, and point end is ahead. Aug. 1th.?Mist all day; cleared at mid-day. Sailed N.E., with favourablewind, and got to 77? 14' N. lat., 42? 30" E. long. at noon. No ice. Wind more northerly, and a swell comingdown from N.,'which gives us hope of gettingtowards Franz-Josef Land. At 7.30 p.m. the wind was N.N.W., and we steamed N.E. by N. Have seen several icebergs; saw none in the Barents Sea the last two years, except close up to Franz-JosefLand. Aug. 8th.?At noon, position 79? 5' N. lat., 45? 42' E. long. At 4 p.m. anchored to a large hummockyfloe. Since noon we have been through ice, large pieces but no greatfloes. Misty all day. The last two or threedays the weatherhas been cold, 32? F., and at nightswe have been having three or four degrees of frost. At 8.45 p.m.moved offfrom the floe; a largeiceberg was groundednear us. Sounded, and got only 48 fathoms,mud and sand. At 10 p.m. anchored to a floe again. Sounded 90 fathoms. Thick fog. Ice all round. There seems to be a south- westerlycurrent here. No wind; sea quite calm. Aug. 9th.?At 1 a.m. commenced steaming again, northerly,boring through the ice in a lane between heavy hummockypack. At 3 a.m. dense fog, and anchored to a large floe. Sounded 135 fathoms. Strong wind blowing outside from S.E. Driving northwardswith the ice. Lat. 79? 35', long. 46? 22'. Sounded 148 fathoms, mud. Aug. 10th.?Fog as bad as ever, and ice closing in more. 11 a.m. sounded 155 fathoms, so must have drifted. Wind S.S.W. Drifting in north-easterly directionwith the ice. At 6.30 p.m. the weather cleared a bit. Wind has been freshfrom S.W. At 7 p.m.the sun came out, and we commencedto move, boring throughthe ice. To the N., E., and W. no water(not even pools) was visible, though to the S.E. a little could be seen. Towards the S.W. were lanes and patches of water, and we are now wendingour way under steam in a zigzag course S., S.E., and S.W. All the floeswe have seen werevery heavy and of great thickness,quite

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880. 143 unlike the loose and thin ice we met last year. Our highestpoint was 79? 40'; as soon as we left,the ice jammed up quickly. At midnightwe are steeringthrough a large pool and loose ice, S.E. Aug. 11th.?Soon after midnightdense fog came on again, and continued all night and nearly all day with an occasional break. Tacked about the large pool, and at 8 p.m.broke into anotherpool, which may almost be open sea, as thereis a " " good lop on. Wind strong from S.W. At 10 p.m. edging south-easterlyto clear a long point-endof ice. Aug. 12th.?Soon aftermidnight the wind and sea increased,and by 8 a.m. we had a gale blowing fromS.W., which increasedas the day wore on. We drove easterlyand south-easterlyfor some time, as we had to lie to, and drifteda long way S. At 6 p.m.we wore ship, as we were driftingdown on the pack, and so continuedtill midnight,when we again wore, having our head now N. Aug. 13th.?All throughthe night the gale blew hard, but by 8 a.m. it had quite moderated,and we had brightsun all day. Position at noon, 78? 18' N. lat., 49? 10' E. long. At 3 p.m. we commenced steaming north-easterly. Wind from W.N.W.; sea much gone down. Steeringall throughthe nightN.E. by N. No ice in sight,only one berg. Aug. lUh.?At 8 a.m. sighted land bearing roughlyfrom N.W. to N.E. when we were in lat. 79? 14' and about long. 54? 10', so we steereda course more to the N.N.W., and by 4 p.m. made fast to a heavy piece of land floeattached to a small island (May Island). At 10 a.m. we passed through some loose ice and by many bergs. At noon we were in lat. 79? 47'. Some of the bergs met with here wore very large, all immense masses, some several miles long, and quite flaton the tops. The average height above water might be from 150 to 250 feetor more. Between our anchorage and the land lay a mixture of looee ice and water. No wind. On the low part of the island therewas a quantity of drift-wood. Aug. 15th.?In the early morninga large floe and some loose ice were coming down on us and shuttingus in, so we had to decamp, and never again were able to land on this particularisland. The weatherbecame bad, and a strongwind from the S.E. began to blow. At 2 p.m. we anchored to a very large floe running N. and S. It was miles in length,and we could not see across it. We were some 10 miles S. of our formerposition, which was now a mass of ice. Aug. 16th.?At 8 a.m. commenced steaming towards the land again, and by noon anchored to another floe. Throughout the day the wind was rather strong fromE.N.E. At 4 p.m.we were offa long island (Etheridge Island) to the W. of our firstdiscovered island. Anchoredand went ashore. A good view of land to the N.E., &c. To the S.W. of us was land and a cape (Cape Barents) we afterwards rounded. At 8 p.m. we had to move again, going a little towards the E., and anchoredto a big floeoff the island on which we had landed on the 14th. Sounded 70 fathoms. Mist and snow through the evening and night; wind strong from E. and E. by N. Driftingslowly. Aug. 17th.?At 4 a.m. we had to shiftour positionto avoid being $mashedup by a large flat berg against which our floe was driving. Between 4 and 8 a.m. the weatherhad quite cleared up. At 10 a.m. we moved fromthis floe,as the ice was comingdown fast,and we had to steam rightround the long island towardsthe west land, which appeared at the time to be free fromice. At 4 p.m. steamingS.W. to a cape (Barents), and after passing it at 6.30 p.m., steered westward along an entireiynew land (NorthbrookIsland). We kept along the coast forsome time, but as the mist became very thick we lay to, and when we had drifteda little to the W., we steamed back into positionagain. Aug. 18th.?At 1.30 a.m. the mist cleared away. Went on shore. At 11 a.m. the

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sun came out; wind blew hard fromS.E. We steamedtowards land to W., and roundingan island (Bell Island), foundourselves in a snug harbour(Eira Harbour) formedby two islands. Anchoredhere at noon. Aug. 19th.?At 9 a.m. therewas a light northerlywind ; at noon it was strong fromE.N.E., and by 3 p.m.had greatlyincreased. At 6.30 p.m. the gale moderated and blew only in shortgusts, and by 8 p.m. it was fineand quite quiet. By 9 p.m* it was again blowinga gale from E.N.E., but by midnight,though we still had it hard in squalls, the weather had greatly moderated,and in a few hours the gale changed into a light south-south-easterlybreeze. Aug. 20th.?Misty all day. Aug. 21st.?Morning calm and pleasant. At 11 a.m. weighedanchor and started up a fiord(Nightingale Sound) to the W. of Eira Harbour in a N.E. and E.N.E. direction,and returnedsteering along the west land (Alexandra Land) until 9 p.m., when we were stopped by pack ice (off Cape Grant), so steamed back to Eira Harbour. Aug. 22nd.?In harbour. Dull and misty all day; calm and warm. Aug. 2'Srd.?Morning misty,but by noon the weatherwas fair. Went a cruise, this time entirely circumnavigatingthe two islands formingEira Harbour. By 8.40 p.m.we were again at anchor. Mist and sleet in the evening; wind apparently fromN.W. Aug. 24th.?At 11.30 a.m. we steamed west. Fresh breeze fromN.W. At 9 p.m.we anchoredto a large floe offa headland (Cape Neale), quite unable to go further. Weather squally. From here we could see land trendingaway to the N.W., and the furthestpoint seen must have been over 40 miles off. Sounded 175 fathoms; no bottom. Wind strong from N.W. by N.; tide seemed to be running to the W. Driftingwith the floe all night; plenty of water,however, to the E. of us. Aug. 25th.?Still driftingwith the ice in a southerlydirection, but not fast. The morningwas clearer. Sounded 175 fathoms; no bottom. Ice seemed to be comingdown along the land, which drove us backwardswith it, so at a little before 2 p.m.we east off fromthe floe and commenced steaming towards the E. Wind N.W. by N., blowing fresh. Steamed up a bay (Gray Bay) and anchored to a land floewhich filledup the head forabout fivemiles. Aug. 26th.?At 9.45 a.m.east offfrom the floe. Wind S.S.E., with snow and mist. Up to noon we kept steaming full speed, head to wind. By 8 p.m. the gale had moderated,and we lay at the entranceto the bay. Barometer,10 p.m., 28-54. Aug. 21th.?At 2 a.m. a furiousgale got up fromN.N.W., and blew with great violence all the morning,which was spent in dodgingbergs and keepingclear of the pack. At 12.15 p.m.,after boring through a good deal of loose ice, we anchoredto a floe. Aug. 28th.?Wind was still strong,but not so violent,and still fromthe N.W. and N.N.W. At 4 a.m. we steamed slowly out of the ice towardsEira Harbour,along the coast. It had becomefull of driftice, and we could not go in. Wind now became morenortherly. At noon we passed the spot wherewe landed, on the 18th, near Cape Flora. Wind increased and blew again with great violencefrom N.W. by N. Anchored in a small bay a little to the W. of Cape Barents. Gale continuedwith great violence up to midnight. Aug. 29th.?By 6 a.m. the weatherwas much better, and at 10 a.m. weighed anchor and steamed eastward. At 11. 30 a.m. we came upon pack ice lying off the point,so had to steer S.S.E. There was now ice all round M'Clintock Island, and all the islands where we were were surroundedwith ice. Wind N.; weather

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880. 145 fine. At noon we began boringthrough some loose ice. At 2 p.m. steeredN.E. At 4 p.m. commencedsailing in an E. and E.N.E. direction. Aug. 30th.?At 8 a.m. came close under Cape Tegetthoff,about a mile off At 9 a.m. mist came on and wind fromW., but by noon fromW.N.W., very unsteady and strong. There was pack ice to the E. and also to the S. We thencoasted under the south-westcorner of Wilczek Island, and were soon near the spot where the Tegetthoffwas abandoned, but now there was water there, though fast ice (apparently) to the E. At 1 p.m.we were steaming and sailing,edging away from the pack. Pack ice E. and N.E.; ice, too, was filiingin fromthe W. At 6 p.m.we headed S.W., and continued workingin a west-south-westerlydirection, keeping offthe pack which was to leeward of us. At 10 p.m.we were among a great deal of loose ice, mostlycomposed of large and heavy pieces. Aug. 31st.?Continued steamingand sailing all nighttowards the W.S.W. Soon after10 a.m. we were again among ice. Wind light fromS. Soon after noon we commenced sailing S.W. At 5 p.m. the wind had gone round to N.E. About 9 p.m. we lay to, having passed throughplenty of loose ice and past many bergs, * some very large. Mist. Barometer 28 94. Wind being a gale fromN.E. by N., we lay driving, with the ship's head E. by S. There was a point of pack ice stretchingfrom S. by E. to S.W. by W. as faras we could see. Septemberlst to 16th.?Trying to go W., but could not find a single opening. For the firstfew days we had varyingweather, mostly bad, and passed througha good deal of loose ice. The whole time we kept prettyclose to the pack, always having it to W. of us. We followedthe pack rightdown to lat. 75J?,long. 46a* E., before we could get at all to the W. On turningthe corneron September5th we were able to keep close to the pack, as the wind was nearly always fromW.N.W. or N.W., and although at times it blew hard, therewas seldom any loose ice away from the pack edges. There was no ice south of us. We steamed frompoint-end to point- end, and sometimes up a bight, hoping to get through,until we sighted Hope- Island about midnighton September9th. This nightwas extremelyfine and calm. Next morning we steamed round the south-westcorner of the island, and then?. steereda northerlyand afterwardsa north-easterlycourse. A fog soon came on,. and we found ourselves before long among a quantity of small groundedicebergs,, which we had to dodge. The next three or four days we had nothing but gales. fromS.W., W., and W.S.W., with high and rough seas ; thick mist nearly all the time. We were finallydriven rightround the island, and at noon on the lith were at the south-west of the island again, some 12 miles off. Steered across the mouth of Stor Fiord until we sighted the South Cape of Spitzbergen. Here we experiencedstormy weather again. Coasted the west side of the fiord. Weather now fine. Sept. 17th.?Anchored in Genevra Bay at 9 a.m. Morninglovely, blue sky and bright sun. No ice visible between Spitzbergen and Wiche's Land, though there were a good many bergs. Hinlopen Straits also seemed freefrom ice. Sept. 18th.?By 8 a.m. a strong wind from N.E. had sprung up, and it was extremelycold. Sept. 19th.?Weather lovely,quite calm, brightsun. Bay ice was making. Sept. 20th.?During the night a strongW. wind sprungup. At 8 a.m. steamed southwards,and at 4 p.m.anchored at Lee's Foreland. Sept. 21st.?A most perfectday. Sept. 22nd.?At 3.15 a.m. weighed anchor and steamed S. At 8 p.m., from lat. 76? 56', long. 19? 45' E., we made a start with a light E.S.E. wind; soon we got a freshE.N.E. gale. Mist. Sept. 24:th.?At 2 a.m. saw land; and at 2 p.m.anchored at Hammerfest. No. III.?March 1881.] l

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Previous to the readingof the foregoingpaper? The President said that at the openingof the Session he had mentionedthat the Council looked forwardto a paper by Mr. Leigh Smith, giving an account of his veryinteresting discoveries in the Arctic Regions?not absolute discoveriesas far as the region itself was concerned,but still a very considerableextension of our knowledge in that direction; and all the more remarkableas the expeditiononly occupied one summer season. In all probabilitythose discoveries would lay the foundationfor very enlargedknowledge of those regions,and for the possible prose- cution of adventurein the directionof the to a greaterextent than had hithertobeen accomplished. He was sorryto say that Mr. Leigh Smith was suffer? ing fromtemporary indisposition, and therefor^was unable to attend the meeting; but, like many other brave and daring men, he was of a singularly modest dis- position,so much so that he declined to writehimself a narrativeof his adventures, thoughhe was willing to supply the fullestinformation as to his cruise. The duty of drawing up a paper on the subject had fallen into the very competent hands of Mr. ClementsMarkham. While the Meeting would regret the absence of the hero of the journey,still a paper gained somethingfrom being writtenand commented upon by another person,who could make remarkswhich the principal performer mightshrink from making. On its conclusion,the followingdiscussion took place:? Captain Sir George Nares said he had great pleasure in availing himself of this opportunityto bear testimonyto the importanceof the successfulvoyage which had been made by Mr. Leigh Smith. It should be rememberedthat this was not the firstoccasion on whichthat gentlemanhad visited the Arctic Regions,for he had followedup his explorationsfor many years. After gaining a thoroughknowledge of ice navigation,he had finallymade his push forFranz-Josef Land, and had come off successful. The great importance of his voyage would certainly be proved hereafter,because he had opened up what, according to present lights,must be the futureroute to the Pole. The expedition that he (Sir George Nares) commanded, effectuallyclosed up Smith Sound as a route in that direction. The public, when he returned,were not particularlypleased with his report,but it was his duty to say that in that directionthe Pole was impracticable. To all the officersand men who servedin that expedition it would be a very greatpleasure to findthat a new route had been discovered. What was wanted was a base fromwhich to start along the land northward. Hithertothe work in the directionof Franz-JosefLand had been carried on in small sailing craft,and now the firsttime that a steamerattempted to reach it, the attempt had proved successful,and Mr. Leigh Smith had arrived there practicallywithout any trouble at all. The question now was, would it be possible to get therein futureyears. He thoughtit would be, but at the same time great caution was necessaryin pronouncingjudgment on other attempts. Even if Mr. Leigh Smith did not again start for that region,he was certainto have many followersin his footsteps,and if they did not prove so successful,no faultshould be foundwith them. Ice navigationwas not to be played with, and success was not always certain. From Payer's voyage it was learned that the Arctic migratorysea- birds went to Franz-JosefLand earlier than to any otherknown spot. The precise reason forthis had not yet been ascertained,but it affordedevidence that the water in the channels that Payer travelledover always thawed earlier in the summerthan in otherparts of the Arctic seas very much furthersouth. This must be in con? sequence of some very strongcurrent pouring through the strait representedon the chart, thawingthe ice. He could not thinkthat this currentflowed from the south; if it did it would carrythe ice towards the land, and there could not possiblybe such a large quantity of water there. He thereforereasoned that the currentcame

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880.?DISCUSSION. 147 fromthe north,causing a large body of water close to the land by forcingthe ice south; a vessel bound northwould meet this ice at a distance fromthe land, and would have to forceher way throughit. Mr. Leigh Smith pushed throughit both ways, and he had every hope that when an expeditionstarted for Franz-Josef Land with the intentionof winteringthere, it would be able to reach its destinationjust as easily as Mr. Leigh Smith had done. There could be no doubt that the Kara Sea had, during the past year,been filledwith largerquantities of ice than in several previous years,and it might be that a season in which a westerlywind prevailed and filled that sea with ice, was the most favourablefor getting to Franz-Josef Land. Mr. Markham had referredto the heavy icebergs that were born there* What became of them was not knpwn. If his conclusion about the northern ourrentwas correct,this, in combinationwith a movementtowards the north-west of a lower stratum of warmer water, would carry them towards Wiche's Land, of which nothing was known. They were not found drifting1down past Hope Island and Bear Island in any great quantities,and it was still uncertainwhere they went. The informationgiven in the paper about the game likely to be met with, would be very valuable for futureexplorers, and although nothinghad been said about reindeer,he did not see why they should not hereafterbe met with. They were found in Spitzbergen in great numbers, and also in Novaya Zemlya. Nothing had as yet been said about any plains in Franz-Josef Land where the reindeerwould be likely to congregate. Cliffsand glaciers stretchingout into the sea did not formthe kind of land in which such animals would be expected,and he lived in hopes that some day or othera districtwould be discoveredin which plenty of game was to be obtained. Eira Harbour was a very importantdiscovery. If & good base could be once established,expeditions might go on in confidence. The presence of bears and walrus was also important. Walrus were never seen where therewas not a quantityof open water everyyear. Seal did not require so much, but the factthat theywere seen as well as walrus was an indicationof the periodical existence of an extensivebody of open water. Bears would not go wherethey could not get seals to live upon, and thus therewas every prospectthat last year was not a very peculiar one. One spar only had been found,but the cliffsand glaciersdid not forma beach on which such thingscould be looked for. Still, the presenceof even one spar was an indication of the directionof the currents. All Arctic men were very much indebted to Mr. Leigh Smith and to other icemen like him, who spent theirtime to good purposein such explorations. Mr. Etheridge, f.r.s. (President of the Geological Society) said that when Sir GeorgeNares' expeditionreturned, the geological collectionsbrought home were submitted to him (Mr. Etheridge), and he had the great privilege of naming the new species. Since then Captain Markham had placed in his hands forexamination the collectionhe made in Novaya Zemlya, and Mr. Leigh Smith had done him the same favour. Amongst the few specimenswhich the lattergentleman had brought were two or threeof what appeared to be distinctlyconiferous wood. To settlethe age of that wood was a very importantquestion. Was it eocene, cretaceous,tertiary, or any other age ? After very careful examination of the cone which had been broughthome, Mr. Carruthershad no doubtwhatever that it belongedto thetrue genus Binus. There were but two pines now knownin the Siberianarea, the Binus cembra and the Binus pallasiana. No otherfossil plant-remains had been broughtfrom that region,but he had no doubt that it was upper cretaceous. That settledthe question of the existence of cretaceous rocks and fossils there. Beneath the cretaceouszone therewas undoubtedlyOxford clay, which was one of the most importantformations in Great Britain and Eussia. Beneath that again were older rocks still. A great deal had been done with regard to tbe groups of palseozoic rocks in the northern L 2

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regions,especially throughSir George Nares and Captain Fielding, who secured a fine collectionof fossil mollusca and corals. Captain Markham's investigationof Novaya Zemlya had proved the existence in that island of carboniferousrocks, agreeingclosely with those of the Pennine chain. Probably fromPetchora Land to Spitzbergen was once continuous land. Sir Roderick Murchison had proved the existenceof carboniferousrocks in Petchora Land and the Ural chain, but until he himselfexamined the specimensfrom Novaya Zemlya they were not known to exist in that island. Since Sir George Nares returned,the completeflora of those parts had been described; but unfortunatelynothing had been done on the northerncoast of Greenlandto the eastward,and an explorationof that districtand of Franz-Josef Land would give clearerinformation as to the geologicalhistory of the Polar regions, which he feltcertain were largely composedof carboniferousrocks. By placing the several acquisitionstogether, and comparingnotes on the Ural chain, PetchoraLand, Novaya Zemlya, Franz-JosefLand, and Spitzbergen,a complete history could be obtained of those rocks which stretchedaway to the north of and America. A remarkable relation exists between North America, Greenland, Scotland, and Derbyshire. He had submitted the cone broughthome by Mr. Leigh Smith to Mr. Carruthers,than whom there was no betterauthority on such matters. From the peculiar form of the cone, probably each scale contained two winged seeds, and it belongedto the genus Pinus; and consideringthe paucity of the fossil flora of that regionwhere so few floweringplants occur and scarcelya shrubof any sort, it was very interestingto have such evidence brought home. The great bulk of the collection brought home by Sir George Nares was carboniferous,but the

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions AND MR. LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES IN 1880.?DISCUSSION. 149 in ordinaryyears. Still, afterall the explanationsthat had been given he faizedto see that any possibility of sledging had been pointed out. If the coast was as perpendicularas it appeared to be fromthe sketches,and if there were no means of laying out depots and advancing with sledges,it would be very disappointing. He noticed that the last speakerhad said that one of the most importantthings to be done, scientificallyspeaking, was the explorationof North Greenland. He him? self had the honour of being appointed by Sir George Nares to explore that very coast to the eastward of Discovery Harbour. He was not able to go as far as he could have wished,and the men who were with him,whom few people would suppose took any interestin scientificdiscovery, were just as much disappointedas he was. That was a very clear proof of the fascinationof Arctic travel. However, fromthe point which he did reach,and fromthe very high altitude at which he surveyedthe northernportion of the horizon,he was of opinion that he did not see the most northernland. The spot where the Alert winteredwas the furthestthat had yet been reachedby any ship, and he believed that extended journeys along the north coast of Greenland would be productive of a very great deal of useful scientific knowledge. He was afraidthat he was the only one presentwho held that opinion, but he held it because he had been to those parts. He believed that it was just possible that in another year a ship might be able to go still furtherup Smith Sound. Certainly the coast was not a very promisingone, but therewere places where a ship could winter,and now that such valuable knowledgehad been gained as to the actual positionof the land, it would be possible with well-disposeddepots to reach a very much higherlimit than had ever beforebeen attained. He himself was out sledging 132 days, and he thought it was not too much to expect that, allowing sixty days at six miles a day, it would be possible to go much furtherthan he himself went. From the highest point of the hill on which he stood he saw land stretchingaway 50 or 60 miles and fading in the horizon,giving promise of extendingvery much further. It did not, however,run directlynorth ; but even if it trended to the south beyond the most northerlypoint seen, it would be very interestingto know that Greenlandwas an island. The most distantpoint reached on the east coast of Greenland was Cape Bismarck. If a point could be reached fromthe west, where it was certainthat no land extendedto the northbetween that spot and Cape Bismarck,then it would be satisfactorilyproved that Greenlandwas an island. However, he was afraid there was not much chance of an expedition being undertakenat present, because a ship could not be sent up Smith Sound without another to take care of it, and that would necessitatea very great outlay. In the directionof Franz-JosefLand, however,there was a prospectof prosecuting researchby one ship. Admiral Sir Erasmus Ommanney expressed his admiration of the services to geographyrendered by Mr. Leigh Smith, especially for the great efficiencyof his expedition and the consummate skill in conducting it. He had very much enlargedour knowledge of Franz-JosefLand, and had shown the way to reach it. The late expeditionunder Sir GeorgeNares provedthat the Pole was unapproachable by way of Smith Sound; as all other points affordno hopes of penetrationto the north,we must now accept Franz-JosefLand as the base forfuture operations, and he was happy to know that Mr. Leigh Smith was goingagain to the ArcticRegions ta followup his researches. It had always been a mysteryto him how the icebergsfrom Franz-JosefLand disappear. Enormous bergs like those which driftdown the coast oT Greenlandas far as 42? N. lat., never driftnear the coast of Lapland or Norway, and the North Cape lies in the high latitude of 70?. As icebergswere seldom seen northof Spitzbergen,it was formerlysupposed that no largermass of land would be found towards the Pole, thereforethe bergs seen by Mr. Leigh Smith were an

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importantdiscovery. He was sure that the name of Mr. Leigh Smith would be handed down to futurityas one of the great Polar expiorersof the Yictorianage. The Presiuent, in concluding the discussion, said that those who were interestedin Arctic discoverywould, afterthat evening'sdiscussion, be glad to see it prosecutedin two directions,one, that which was pointedout by Captain Beaumont, fromSmith Sound along the north coast of Greenland; the other fromthe spot which Mr. Leigh Smith had reached in Franz-JosefLand. Without winteringin Franz-JosefLand, it would be impossible to determinewhether that route could be followed or not. Strong reasons had been advanced in its favour by Sir George Nares, qualified,however, by prudent cautions. How far the open water was con? tinued to the northwardit was impossibleto say, nor was it yet known whetherthe coast trended eastwards or directlynorthwards. If it went in the latterdirection,. and there were no great disadvantages from its contour,that would seem to be the route by whichthe greatestprogress could be made towardsapproaching the Pole. It was an honourable ambition among Englishmen not to be outdone by the dis- coverers of any other country; and whilst the main object of the Society was. geographicaldiscovery, they could not be insensibleto the honourto be attained by those who pushed explorationfurthest in the polar regions. He for one would be very glad to findexplorations carried on both along Franz-JosefLand and the north coast of Greenland. These, however, were matterswhich would very shortly be consideredby minds farmore fully informedon the subject, and farmore competent to come to a decision than he was.

A Journey through Semiretchia to Kuldja in 1880.

By E. Delmar Morgan. (Read at the Evening Meeting,January 31st, 1881.)

The Eussian military provinco of Turkistan extends from the Aral Sea on the west, nearly to the 85th meridian east of Greenwich on the east. Its greatest length along the 43rd parallel is about 1200 miles, its greatest hreadth from north to south along the 73rd meridian is 400 miles. It comprises the governorships (oblasti) of Syr-daria, Semiretchia, and Ferganah, the temporary circuit (okrug) of Zerafshan, the Kuldja region conquered in 1871, and the department of Amu-daria acquired in 1873. It occupies an area of about 400,000 square miles, equal to one-twentieth part of the whole Eussian empire, or nearly to Germany and Austro- Hungary taken together, not much less than France, Great Britain, and Italy combined, and thirty-six times larger than Belgium. But in population Turkistan is very deficient, numbering little over three millions, and the extent of land capable of cultivation is insignificant^ not exceeding one-fiftieth of the whole superficies, or 5,400,000 acres ; whilst the larger part is neither fit for agriculture nor pasturage. The inhabitants of Turkistan belong to two great races, the Indo- Germanic and the Mongolian. These again may be divided and sub- divided into an infinity of branches and tribes. Suffice it to say, how? ever, that by far the largest number, about one-half, belong to the Altaic

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions TTc^'j Pub*for th* Proceedinp* of the RqyaL titographieal Soritty IS31.

This content downloaded from 185.44.78.113 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 04:36:37 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions DISCOVERIES along" the SOUTH COAST

ANZ-JOSEF LAND

by ?FB. Leigh Smith. 1880.

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i i i-1 ? A 78 50 55 6u VIaK Iobit?vmEdmbnrp'h l London Pub*for th* Phc>cr*diji0* of the RqyaL titographieal Soritty IS31.

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