Sailboat Racing at NCSC

Earl McMaster

May 29, 2020 Contents

1 Introduction 1 1.1 How to Win ...... 1

2 A Day at the Races 3

3 Strategy and Tactics 7 3.1 A Race as a Sequence of Shorter Races ...... 7 3.1.1 Pre-Race Preparation ...... 7 3.1.2 Pre-Start ...... 9 3.1.3 Start ...... 10 3.1.4 First Minute After the Start ...... 12 3.1.5 First Windward Leg ...... 13 3.1.6 Rounding the Windward Mark ...... 15 3.1.7 Reach Legs ...... 16 3.1.8 Rounding the Gybe Mark ...... 16 3.1.9 Reach-To-Reach Gybe ...... 16 3.1.10 Downwind Leg ...... 17 3.1.11 Rounding the Leeward Mark ...... 18 3.1.12 Second Windward Leg ...... 19 3.1.13 Last Windward Leg To The Finish ...... 19 3.1.14 Finish ...... 19 3.1.15 Post-Race Analysis ...... 20

4 Boat Speed 21 4.1 Sail Controls ...... 21 4.2 Sail Trim ...... 21 4.2.1 The Upwind Gears ...... 21 4.2.2 Mainsail Trim ...... 22 4.2.3 Jib Trim ...... 22 4.2.4 Spinnaker Trim ...... 22 4.3 Steering ...... 23 4.3.1 Polar plot ...... 23 4.3.2 Steering techinique ...... 24

5 Boat Handling 25 5.1 Tacking the Boat ...... 25 5.1.1 Rules while tacking ...... 25 5.2 Raising the Spinnaker ...... 25 5.3 Gybing the boat ...... 26 5.3.1 Rules while gybing ...... 26 5.4 Dropping the Spinnaker ...... 26 5.5 Methods to depower the boat as the wind speed increases ...... 27 5.6 Crew Responsibilities ...... 27 5.6.1 Upwind Racing Mode ...... 27 5.7 Sail Controls ...... 28 5.7.1 Mainsail ...... 28 5.7.2 Jib ...... 28 1 5.7.3 Spinnaker ...... 29 5.8 Boat Controls ...... 29 5.8.1 Centerboard ...... 29

6 Preparation 30

7 Some Miscellaneous Topics 31 7.1 Neutral Helm ...... 31 7.2 Learn to Sail by Feel ...... 31 7.3 Anticipate; Plan Ahead ...... 31 7.4 Techniques for slowing your boat or sailing backwards ...... 31 7.5 Techniques to turn the boat quickly ...... 31

8 Practice 32

A Terminology 33

B NCSC Race Course 35

C Leverage and Ladder Rungs 37

D Apparent Wind 39

E Forces on the Boat 40 E.1 Lift and Drag on a Sail ...... 40

2 List of Tables

C.1 Gains (losses) due to leverage as a result of a wind shift...... 37

3 List of Figures

2.1 SailFlow Wind Forecast ...... 3 2.2 Tide and Current Table ...... 4 2.3 Typical Course Diagrams ...... 5 2.4 Sailboat Racing Flags ...... 6

4.1 A polar plot for a Thistle in 12 knots of wind...... 23

A.1 Points of Sail ...... 34

B.1 The NCSC Racing Area ...... 36

C.1 The change in the ladder rungs due to a windshift...... 38

D.1 Apparent Wind Diagram ...... 39

E.1 Lift and Drag on a Sail ...... 41 E.2 Forces on a Sailboat ...... 41

4 Chapter 1

Introduction

1.1 How to Win

Buddy Melges on how to win a sailboat race: “Start first and increase your lead”. So, winning a sailboat race is simple: get a good start, go fast, and go the correct way. The finishing position in a one-design race is determined by the order of boats crossing the finish line (which may not be the case in a race governed by a handicap system, like PHRF). You still win no matter whether you beat the second place boat by a half boatlength or by thirty boatlengths. The top teams talk about sailing consistently and conservatively; taking only manageable risks. A regatta or series is won by the team that consistently finishes near the top of each race with no poor finishes. It is usually won by the team that sails consistently well and makes the fewest mistakes. Here is what we mean by a good start, go fast, and go the correct way: Good Start – cross the starting line within a couple seconds after the starting signal, have good boat speed, have clear air, and be in a good position (left, middle, right) to execute your strategy. Go Fast – sail maximum Velocity Made Good (VMG) both upwind and downwind. Go the Correct Way – often this means sail the shortest course, but there are plenty of exceptions. The shortest course takes into account wind shifts and current. Exceptions include sailing a longer course to be in stronger wind, or covering a boat or two to stay ahead of them. I read about a sailboat racing analogy in a book (I forget which one). It went something like this: Sailboat racing is like going the wrong way on an escalator. We all start on the top step and we each take a step when the new step appears. Then someone makes a mistake. If its a small mistake they go down one step; a larger mistake would go down more steps. At the beginning of a race you also tend to go down more steps for the same mistake – you don’t have clear air, you can’t tack when you want to, etc. You can never get back to the top step; the best you can do is to continue to take a step each time a new step appears. The only way to pass boats is if they make more and/or bigger mistakes so they go down even more steps. There is a lot of truth to this story. What we learn is: • The winner makes the fewest and/or less costly mistakes. • The mistakes near the beginning of the race tend to be more costly than the same mistakes made later in the race. • You cannot pass anyone unless they make mistakes; and only then if you make fewer and/or less costly mistakes than they do. So what are some examples of these mistakes? One way to classify mistakes is suggested by an excerpt from North U. In Performance Racing Tactics by Bill Gladstone, you will find the following quote: The ingredients to racing success can be viewed in a pyramid comprised of boat handling, boat speed, and tactics. [Note: In another quote Bill Gladstone says “Tactics in the broad sense means strategy, tactics, and rules”.] The foundation of the racing pyramid is boat preparation. It is difficult to sail well, and to sail fast, without a properly equipped boat. Next is boat handling. You must be able to sail your boat well before you can race well. Next is boat speed. In any kind of race – be it by car, bike, horse, foot, bobsled, or whatever – speed is essential. Strategy and Tactics lie at the top of the racing pyramid. To race successfully, you must work your way up the pyramid: your boat handling must be second nature, and your boat speed second to none. Strategy and Tactics alone will rarely win races. They just help you beat boats with comparable boat handling and boat speed. 1 So we have:

@@ @ @ Strategy @ and Tactics @ @ @ Boat Speed @ @ Boat Handling @ @ Boat Preparation @ @ @

Strategy and Tactics have to do with going the correct way. The other three have to do with going fast.

2 Chapter 2

A Day at the Races

To formulate a good strategy we need to collect as much wind and current data as we can before we sail out for our first race. • Check the weather report the night before and the morning of the races. See Figure 2.1 for an example wind forecast. Let’s assume we will be racing from 10am to about 1pm. We see from the forecast that the winds are predicted to decrease from about 12mph (gusts to 16) at 10am to about 10mph (gusts to 13) at 1pm. The predicted wind direction is from the NNE and tending to go right maybe 20 degrees during the time we are racing. It’s also sunny and 61◦ − 65◦F. At NCSC a NNE wind direction is somewhat off-shore. In this case the windward mark will most likely be near the mooring area. As we get near shore the wind direction can change dramatically even to the point of allowing auto tacks. Taking advantage of auto tacks can really pay off. The wind is also predicted to slowly shift to the right. Each leg of a race is generally less than 15 minutes so this information is not that useful. However, you might keep an eye to the right (when sailing upwind, left when sailing downwind) for new wind.

• Check the strength and direction of the current. See Figure 2.2. This chart is old, but let’s use the data for Saturday, May 31, 2014. It says that Slack Water is at 10:16am, Maximum Current is 2.1 knots (incoming) at 12:11pm, and Slack Water again at 3:20pm. So we expect there will not be much current for Race 1 (around 10am), then current will be building to 2.1 knots (incoming) at 12:11pm, and then it will be decreasing after that. To verify this we will look at the current at the pin end of the starting line before each race.

Windshifts

– You can get wind bend along a curved shoreline if the true wind is approximately parallel to the shore line. – Lift – wind shifts to the stern – upwind, your leeward jib telltale starts luffing. Header – wind shifts to the bow – upwind, your windward jib telltale starts luffing. – Lifts and headers are opposite for boats on differnt tacks.

Figure 2.1: SailFlow Wind Forecast

3 Figure 2.2: Tide and Current Table

Windspeed

– Puffs and lulls are often generated by an off-shore wind direction.

See Figure 2.3 for some example diagrams of race courses. See Figure 2.4 for the racing flags used to start a race.

4 Figure 2.3: Typical Course Diagrams

5 Sailboat Racing Flags

Start Sequence

1. About 15 seconds before beginning the start sequence, several short rapid horn blasts are given to get the racers’ attention.

2. Five minutes prior to the Start, the class flag is raised (pendent with a Thistle).

3. Four minutes prior to the Start, a preparatory flag is raised. (Blue square with a smaller white square in the middle).

4. One minute prior to the Start, the preparatory flag is lowered.

5. At the Start, the class flag is lowered.

SIGNAL FLAG SOUND MINUTES BEFORE START

Warning 1 5

Class Flag is raised

Preparatory 1 4 P Flag is raised

One Minute to 1 1 Start (long) P Flag is lowered

Start 1 0

Class Flag is lowered

Updated March 2015 Page 1

Figure 2.4: Sailboat Racing Flags

6 Chapter 3

Strategy and Tactics

3.1 A Race as a Sequence of Shorter Races

A sailboat race can be divided into a sequence of shorter races. For example, let’s say you are sailing Course T6: a triangle course followed by a windward/leeward course which finishes to windward where all marks are sailed with the buoy to the port side of the boat. This race can be broken down into a sequence of shorter races as follows: – Pre-Race Preparation – Pre-Start – Start – First Minute After the Start – First Windward Leg – Rounding the Windward Mark – Reach Legs – Rounding the Gybe Mark – Reach-To-Reach Gybe – Rounding the Leeward Mark – Second Windward Leg – Rounding the Windward Mark – Downwind Leg – Rounding the Leeward Mark – Last Windward Leg To The Finish – Finish

3.1.1 Pre-Race Preparation

– On the morning of the race it’s a good idea to get the hourly weather forecast of the temperatures, wind speeds, and wind directions. You will also need the predicted time and direction for the maximum current and the time of slack water which are posted on the door of the NCSC sail house. Oftentimes at New Castle your entire strategy is determined by the strength and direction of the current. – While waiting for the skipper’s meeting you can look at indicators on the water and on land to see if they support the weather forecast: ∗ Does the wind speed seem to be about as predicted? Are there signs of puffs and lulls on the water? ∗ Does the wind direction appear to be steady or is it shifting (oscillating or persistent)? ∗ Can you time the wind shifts? – Get on the water ASAP.

7 ∗ Discuss strategy while rowing out to the boat. ∗ Sail to a place on the course where you can practice. Do not get too far away from the starting line – especially down current. ∗ Decide if upwind is an underpowered or overpowered mode. ∗ Practice upwind sailing, tacks, windward mark rounding including spinnaker up and jib down, downwind sailing, gybing, leeward mark rounding including jib up and spinnaker down. ∗ Get to the stating line with enough time to check current at the pin and starting line bias. – Boat Setup – Setup the boat for maximum VMG upwind. 1. Adjust the controls that shape the sails. 2. Determine the upwind racing mode – underpowered (fully-trimmed) or overpowered (fully-hiked). 3. If possible, do two-boat upwind speed testing with another boat to see if your boatspeed is competitive. Two-boat upwind speed testing can also be done during the upwind legs of the races. You are determining if you are higher, the same, lower; faster, the same, slower than the other boat. – Collect Data (large fleet racing) ∗ Try to arrive at the racing area about an hour before the first start of the day. ∗ Sail upwind on one tack gathering compass readings and the apparent wind velocity about every minute for about five minutes. Write these down using something like WetNotes. Then tack and continue to take compass readings and apparent wind velocity for another five minutes. After about 20 minutes check your WetNotes to see if there is a pattern to the shifts (oscillating, persistent). Then head downwind and practice your gybes. Sail back to the starting line continuing to watch the wind for patterns. Note that when sailing upwind you are going against the wind so you will be observing less time between windshifts than if you stayed at the starting line. Similarly, sailing downwind with the wind will lengthen the time between windshifts. In a race you may only get one windshift during the entire downwind leg. – As soon as you can get your boat rigged and start sailing, you should practice your boat handling. Do a few tacks upwind. Then simulate a windward mark rounding by going close-hauled on starboard tack, turn to a broad reach, and raise your spinnaker followed by lowering your jib. Practice a few gybes. Then practice a leeward mark rounding by raising your jib, lowering your spinnaker, and heading up from a broad reach on port tack (or, if necessary, gybing to port tack first) to a close-hauled course on port tack. Once the starting line is set you can can get an idea of the strength and direction of the current by looking at the “pin-buoy” of the starting line. Then practice a few starts to get a feel for your speed and timing to the starting line. While you are practicing your boat handling keep looking for the location and movement of more or less wind. Where do the puffs and lulls come from? Are they lifts or headers? Before the start of the race it is important to form a strategy based on this information. Generally the strategy will be to favor the left, middle, or right side of the course. You may also be able to determine whether you want to gybe immediately (or gybe-set) after rounding the windward mark (assuming the next leg is a run). The reason might be that there looks to be more wind to one side of the course or the other. On the Delaware River, there can be a strong current which is stronger towards the middle of the river and weaker closer to shore. A strategy may be to sail to one side first so that you sail against a weaker current. If there seems to be no reason to favor one side or the other, then sailing in the middle of the course may be the best strategy. This way you can minimize the leverage any single boat will have against you. This middle-course strategy also keeps you away from the laylines. – Sail the downwind rhumb line – This is done to determine what gybe and angle you would be sailing if you wish to sail along the downwind rhumb line. By knowing this you may want to do a gybe-set or gybe as soon as possible after rounding the windward mark. A valuable aid to determine if you are sailing on this rhumb line is to site along this line past the leeward (or windward) mark to a point on land. You want to keep that point on land directly behind the mark as you sail along the line between the windward and leeward marks. – Determine your strategy for the start based on your strategy for the race, the squareness of the starting line1, and the strength and direction of the current. ∗ Your strategy for the race (go left, middle, or right) may determine that you want to start toward the pin end, near the middle, or toward the committee-boat end of the starting line. ∗ A starting line which is not square to the true wind (including current) may indicate you want to start near the end of the starting line that is more upwind to get an immediate lead (further up the ladder rungs) than the other boats. See Table C.1 to determine how much of a lead this would be. 1A perfectly square starting line would be perpendicular to the vector obtained by adding the true-wind vector to the current-wind vector. The current-wind vector is the wind strength and direction you would experience if your boat was moving with the current alone (i.e. the air is perfectly calm relative to the land). 8 ∗ Differences in the strength of the current (for example, weaker near the shore to the right) may determine that you want to tack to port immediately after the start. In this case you probably want to start near the committee-boat end of the starting line.

An example strategy

Here is a possible strategy for a race: We notice that the current is near its maximum flood speed and that it’s direction is perpendicular to the direction of the true wind. We also see that the windward mark (which is near the center of the river) is experiencing a much stronger current than that near the starting line (closer to the shore). The wind seems to be about the same over the entire course so we decide to play the right side of the course by tacking to port as soon as possible after the start and sail against the weaker current. However, we also notice the pin end (left end looking upwind) of the starting line is more upwind with the starting line looking to be angled about 10◦ from perpendicular to the true wind direction. So starting near the pin end will give us an immediate lead assuming we are near the line at the start. But how much of a lead? We can use Table C.1 or our rule of thumb that a 10◦ shifted starting line gives us a lead of about 25% of the lateral separation distance between us and the other boat. Let’s say the starting line looks to be about 200 feet long. This is about 12 Thistle (17 feet long) boatlengths long. Thus, by starting at the pin end we could be about 3 boatlengths ahead of a boat that starts at the committee-boat end, or 1 1/2 boatlengths ahead of a boat that starts in the middle, or only 1/2 boatlength ahead of a boat that starts 2 boatlengths further to the right of us. Because the current is flooding and it’s direction is perpendicular to the true wind, the current will also push us right to left from the committee-boat end toward the pin end. If we decide to try to start near the pin end we have to be careful that the current doesn’t force us into touching the pin or not even being able to sail on the correct side of the pin at the start. Due to the direction of the current it will be much easier to start near the committee-boat end. Taking all this into account, we decide that our starting strategy is to start near the committee-boat end so we can tack to port and go right as soon as we can after the start.

3.1.2 Pre-Start

– Get out early before the start. ∗ See if there is a pattern to the wind. ∗ Look for the marks; check the starting line bias – 10 minutes before the start ∗ Check for starting line bias · Head-to-wind method: Point the boat into irons. The upwind end of the starting line is the end that our boat is pointing to. We can also tell about how many degrees the line is biased. · Reaching method: Reach along the starting line and trim the main so it is breaking just a little. Gybe around and check if you need to bring the main in or out. The direction in which your main sheet is trimmed in more points in the direction of the more upwind end of the line. Every time you are going along the line think about if there has been a windshift. ∗ Get compass readings on each tack. ∗ Go on a close reach and practice where the controls are. This will be for accelerating just before and at the start. ∗ Go close-hauled and set the controls for good VMG. By practicing going from a close reach to close-hauled you can get a good jump at the start.

Once the starting line is set: – Time the length of the starting line in both directions. There may be differences due to the current. This will let you know how long it will take to get to a particular point of the starting line. – Divide the line into thirds ∗ Pin third – some risk, harder to clear ∗ Middle third – hardest area to nail it; often there is a midline sag. 9 ∗ Boat third – safest place to start – Get (transit) line sights based on your fleets starting tendancies. No transit, no problem – use the other boats as references ∗ 5 lengths below the line, 2 lengths below, and on the line ∗ 2 lengths below the line, on the line, and over the line – Go head-to-wind to determine which end of the starting line is more upwind, i.e. how square is the line. You may want to favor that end of the line to get an immediate lead on boats not at that end. You can also check for line bias by sailing along the starting line in both directions while adjusting your main sheet. The direction in which your main sheet is trimmed in more points in the direction of the more upwind end of the line. – Based on your strategy, the current, and the squareness of the line make your final decision on if you would prefer to start near the pin end, near the middle, or near the committee-boat end of the line. Or perhaps it does not matter and the best strategy is to start where there are less boats. – Based on the strength and direction of the current you may want to start at a particular position along the line or even start on port tack. For example, the starting line may be so skewed to the wind that it is difficult or impossible to cross the line on starboard tack. – Check for weeds on the centerboard and rudder.

3.1.3 Start

– Because of the starboard tack right-of-way over port tack boats, you generally want to start on starboard tack. So, you are usually on port tack (a minute or two before the start) trying to get to your predetermined position on the water deciding at what point in time and at what position on the water you want to make your final tack to starboard to head to the starting line. – If you are trying to start near the committee-boat end of the starting line be aware of how much room you have (and the applicable rules) so that you are not caught in a position of “barging” where the boat to leeward will force you to drastically slow down to go behind her, or even worse, force you to tack away before crossing the starting line. – If there are other boats that will be blocking your path or taking your air, be ready to quickly alter your plans. The start is not the time to be behind, sailing slow, and going in the wrong direction. – For light-air starts, you may want to start near the pin end or the boat end to minimize the disturbed air coming from nearby boats.

– 5 minutes before the start ∗ Again, check the line ∗ Again, check your compass settings ∗ Stand up and look up the course. You may be able to use smokestacks, flags, and boats not in the race to check for greater wind speed and shifts in the wind direction. ∗ Some top racers have told me they try to start near the middle of the line 90% of the time. – 3 minutes before the start ∗ Figure out your timing based on where you want to be at the start. ∗ What approach technique do you use?: · Starboard luffing approach - get in place by one minute before the start and then luff. · The port tack approach is popular with many top racers. – 2-3 minutes before the start ∗ Go above the line and luff up to get a final true wind compass heading. – Last minute before the start ∗ You found your hole in the line and you tack to starboard ∗ Try to get as close as possible to the boat to windward and as far away from the leeward boat. ∗ To keep your boat near the boat to windward you can almost two-block the main and luff the jib which will stall the boat and make it move really slowly without sliding to leeward. Then to accelerate you ease the main and trim the jib to a close reach.

10 ∗ To keep a “swooper” from trying to take your hole to leeward you can let out your sails and turn your boat to fill in the hole to leeward to discourage the “swooper”. – 15-20 seconds before the start ∗ Drive into your hole to leeward and be moving at the start. ∗ “We’re covered” – this is what the crew says when he/she cannot see the committee boat meaning they also cannot see you. Then you can trim and accelerate as quickly as possible. ∗ Watch for midline sag – use your sights to know where the line is. Do your quick acceleration to the line in the last 15 seconds. – At the start you want boatspeed and clean air.

Some common starting strategies

– Just after the start get on the tack that takes you closer to shore to sail in less opposing current upwind. – If there is a strong current pushing you over the line, stay well back of the line until there is no chance of being pushed over early. This may be a good time to start near the pin end. – If there is a strong current holding you back from the line, stay near the line during the 5 minute starting sequence so you will have no problem crossing the line just after the starting signal. This may be a good time to start near the committee-boat end. – If there is a strong current in the direction from the committee-boat end to the pin end, make sure you approach the starting line near the committee-boat end. This may be a good time to start right at the committee boat. – If there is a strong current in the direction from the pin end to the committee-boat end, make sure you approach the starting line near the pin end. This may be a good time to start right at the pin. – If the starting line is skewed so much to favor the pin end that it is difficult or impossible to cross the line on starboard tack, consider starting near the pin end on port tack.

Starting techniques

– Reaching Out and Reaching In – Beam reach on port tack a few (perhaps 5-10) boatlengths below and parallel to the starting line for a given time. Then tack (or gybe) to starboard and beam reach back along the same line so that you arrive at the starting line with good boatspeed at the location you wish to start. You must allow time for tacking or gybing and take into account any current that may alter your timing. – Vanderbilt Start – Broad reach on port tack away from the starting line for a given time. Then tack (or gybe) to starboard and close reach back toward the starting line so you arrive with good boatspeed at the location you wish to start. You must allow time for tacking or gybing. – Dinghy Start – You arrive and park your boat at your starting position a few boatlengths behind the starting line well before the start. Then you accelerate during the last few seconds before the start. This technique is used in fleets of boats which can accelerate quickly. – Dip Start – This is a risky start where you arrive at the line from the course side and dip below the line just before the start; then turn upwind to start. It is particularly useful in a large fleet where the current is keeping boats away from the line and there is a midline sag. – Port-Tack Approach – In this technique you sail on port tack a few (perhaps 5-10) boatlengths below and parallel to the starting line. On your appraoch you are looking for a hole to tack into. You time your apporach so that you can tack onto starboard tack at about the position you want to start with less than one minute to go. The benefit of this technique is that you are going against the starboard tack boats giving you more chances to find a hole to tack into. With less than a minute to go before your start it also makes it easier to defend your hole. – Once you tack to starboard for your final approach to the starting line, try to head up the windward boat to give you plenty of room to leeward to accelerate into just before the start. Do not do this too early or you encourage other boats to take your hole to leeward. You may be able to discourage another boat from taking your hole by quickly turning your boat down to fill up this hole. This takes a lot of skill. If the boat continues to try to go to leeward of you therules help you by allowing you more time to alter your course as the keep clear boat. By then you can accelerate and stay ahead of them. – By about 15 seconds before the start, make sure you are sailing no higher than a close reach so you can accelerate during the final seconds before the start. If you are close-hauled your boat will tend to initially slide sideways when you sheet in the main. 11 – Be able to slow and stop the boat. – Be able to rotate the boat at slow speed. – Be able to accelerate the boat in a short time. – Be able to change course quickly. – Be able to sight the line well to know how close your boat is to the line. – In large fleets you can take advantage of hiding. This is where your crew calls out that the folks on the race committee who are checking for OCS (on course side) can no longer see you because a boat is blocking their line-of-sight. This is the time to accelerate and pop out just before the starting signal when the visible boat may be slowing down so as not to be called OCS.

Rules at the start

Rules at the start: – Starboard tack boat has right of way (Rule 10 – On Opposite Tacks). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – No room at a starting mark (Section C – At Marks And Obstructions). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – While tacking (Rule 13 – While Tacking). Most of these rules are relevant in deciding if a boat is barging.

3.1.4 First Minute After the Start

– The start and first minute are critical to giving you control of the boats to windward and leeward of you. This is especially true in large fleets. You need to hold your lane. – Focus on going fast and watch the rest of the boats – higher, lower; faster slower. – Right after the start you need to figure out when to make your first tack. ∗ Tack right away if you can. ∗ Tack as soon as you can if your strategy is to go to the right; for example, to sail against less adverse current. ∗ If you are in someone’s wind shadow you probably want to tack to port. ∗ If you had a poor start and do not have clear air, you may want to tack soon after the start to clear your air. ∗ In a big fleet, if you start in the second row, tack to port right away and duck the first row of boats. You get a lift off the sterns of the boats you pass behind. ∗ Tack because you are headed and want to get onto the lifted tack. ∗ Tack because you see more wind to the right. ∗ When you do tack, make sure you tack into a good lane. This means you will be sailing in clear air. – Stay on starboard tack if your strategy is to get to the left: for more wind, less adverse current, you expect a header. – Sail longer on starboard if no one tacks to port. If you are leading you may be able to backwind a boat to windward and a boat to leeward and behind. – You may not be able to tack because of the windward boat. Can you pinch up a bit and give them dirty air. Then they may tack allowing you to tack. Or you may be able to work your way in front of them so you can tack and clear them.

12 3.1.5 First Windward Leg – If the wind is steady you will sail the same distance from the starting line to the windward mark no matter what course you take provided you have not sailed past the laylines. – The first five minutes of the race generally determine if you are a “thinner” or “thinnie”. By being a “thinner” you lead your pack of boats allowing you to get on the favored tack and to control the boats behind you. The fleet tends to spread out during the first windward leg. The order of finish is often determined by the order of going around the first windward mark. – Focus on sailing fast (maximum VMG). Good boat speed is key; try to get it and keep it at all times during the race. ∗ Always know and communicate which upwind sailing mode you are in: underpowered (fully-trimmed) mode or overpowered (fully-hiked) mode. The mode can change back and forth as you sail into more and less wind. If the wind is strong enough (overpowerd/fully-hiked mode), get everyone on the rail and hiking in a comfortable position that can be kept for minutes at a time. ∗ Keep clear air. To do this you must find good lanes to tack into. ∗ When on starboard tack you may want to hail a port tack boat to cross your bow if you want to continue to go left. ∗ Some reasons to keep going in bad air: · To get to a puff or a shift · The air is not too bad · You are in stronger wind · There is not a good lane to tack into · You are not losing very much · You don’t expect the situation to last very long ∗ Keep the boat sailing in the middle of the groove (“sweet spot”) for maximum VMG. ∗ Check your VMG up the ladder rungs to see if you are gaining or losing on the competition – higher, the same, lower; faster, the same, slower. ∗ Constantly play the main sheet. ∗ Keep the jib telltales flowing, with the inside one dancing up frequently. The jib can occasionally luff a couple inches. The jib rarely luffs up to 8 mph wind, luffs about 1/3 of the time up to about 12 mph, more than 1/2 the time up to about 16 mph, and all the time in even stronger wind. ∗ The top batten of the main can be hooked to windward a few degrees. The idea is to sail in 3rd and 4th gear (see Section 4.2.1). You keep trying to point a little higher into 4th gear until you are about to slow down and you return to 3rd gear. This assumes relatively flat water (i.e. little or no waves or chop). With waves or chop you will not want to sail in 4th gear and you may even go down to 2nd gear to drive through a wave or chop. ∗ Have very little helm by sailing the boat flat or with little heel; even to the point of the helm feeling terrible because it is so neutral. ∗ To point (4th gear), first get boat speed which will allow your blades (centerboard and rudder) to point you higher. ∗ Trim the sails in as much as possible while keeping the boat flat and without losing boat speed. ∗ When you start to lose boat speed, ease your main (to 3rd gear) and sail a slightly lower course (foot) to get your boat speed back up to where you can point. ∗ Steer well by watching the telltales on the jib. ∗ Steer the boat with your weight and sail trim; minimize the use of the tiller. ∗ Move the fore/aft position of the crew so that the bow is not digging in and you have a flat stern wake. In moderate wind this is where the skipper is directly across from the lower mainsheet block with the middle crew just forward of the skipper and forward crew just forward of the middle crew. This will put the forward crew 3 to 12 inches aft of the shroud. As the wind builds the skipper and crew will all move further aft to keep the bow from digging in. In very strong wind the skipper may even be sitting on the aft grating with the crew just forward of this position. ∗ Keep the crew close together so that the bow can go through the waves easier. ∗ As the wind strength increases requiring more crew to sit on the rail, the order should be skipper up first, middle second, forward third. As the wind strength decreases requiring less crew to sit on the rail, the order should be forward down first, middle second, skipper third. 13 ∗ In shifty air, modify your sailing angles to get to the next shift quickly (assuming oscillating wind direction), foot in the lifts and point high (or tack) in the headers. You may want to pinch if it gets you to a puff sooner. ∗ In waves, if successive waves are far enough apart, steer up onto the top of the wave and steer down on the backside. If the waves are far enough apart laterally you may be able to steer to avoid the waves. In general, foot a little to power through waves. Move your weight aft to keep the bow from burying in a wave. ∗ Tack well. You lose only about 1/2 boat length with a good tack. A poor tack can lose you several boat lengths or more. – Go the correct way. ∗ Minimize the number of tacks you do. However, this puts you to one side of the course with leverage, but also high risk. ∗ If you really want to tack and a boat is in your way you can head off drastically and then tack and duck. ∗ Stay near the rhumb line to reduce risk. But this requires more tacks. ∗ Look for more wind and, when possible, sail in it. This is especially important in light air races. You can find more wind (puffs) by looking for chopier and usually darker water. You can also anticipate wind speed and direction changes by noticing the effect on boats ahead of you. ∗ Upwind – watch the boats ahead of you to see what kind of wind you will get. ∗ In light air you try to sail to areas of more wind (connect the dots) if you can reach them before they pass by you. ∗ In an oscillating breeze, stay on the lifted tack. If the wind is oscillating without any persistent shift, you stay on the lifted tack by tacking when the wind direction reaches the median. A common mistake is to wait for the wind direction to go past the median to a headed direction. But this means you are sailing in a header for part of the time. We do not have compasses on our sailboats, but you can still observe when your boat direction changes. The skipper looks past the forestay in a straight line to a point on the shore. Generally this point will be moving even if your boat direction does not change. But if the direction you are sailing changes, there will be a noticable difference. ∗ The more shifts in the wind direction, the more chances you have to make gains by staying on the lifted tack. The more changes in wind speed the more opportunity to connect the dots to more wind. ∗ Play the fleet. One of the basic principles of racing is that you should stay on the favored side (according to your strategy) of your competition. This applies whether you are ahead and trying to stay in your position or behind and trying to pass boats. ∗ When you are ahead or in a good position, loosely cover the one or more boats that are near and behind you. This involves staying on the tack that keeps you between the windward mark and the boats you are covering. ∗ Use a blocker. This is where you position yourself on starboard tack (usually by tacking from port) at a point that is a little to windward and behind another starboard tack boat (the blocker). The blocker will force port tack boats that are appraoching you to either tack to starboard prior to reaching the blocker or ducking both the blocker and you. Thus a port tack boat that was a little ahead of you will not tack on your wind or cross in front of you. ∗ If you are ahead, cross the fleet to consolidate your position. ∗ Don’t let other boats cross you. This means you may want to tack before you get to the boat or boats that would otherwise cross you. ∗ Do not get to either layline too early. When you are close to a layline you lose your options to tack to play windshifts. To minimize this risk you should sail the longer tack first. This will keep you near the middle of the course. This is a good strategy unless there is a reason you want to go to the left or right side of the course. ∗ When boats are staying right at NCSC to sail in less adverse current, I’ve noticed they often overstand the windward mark. – Strategy and tactics apply to small and large fleets, but some tactics are more important in one or the other. ∗ You need to have boatspeed in order to make the tactics work. ∗ If you see puffs coming down the course, it pays to tack to get to the increased windspeed even if you are sailing the wrong tack based on staying in phase. This is generally the case in lighter air. ∗ If the wind is strong you are trying to play the wind shifts more. ∗ Do not go too far out to either side of the course, unless you have a real good reason. ∗ As you come to a boat either tack or cross to stay on the lifted tack so when the wind shifts back you will be on the correct side of him to get an advantage when the wind shifts back. This will keep you in phase. 14 ∗ If the windward mark is not directly upwind, sail the longest tack first. ∗ Don’t get to the starboard layline too early. Stay in the middle of the course so you leave your options open to tack. Go near the port layline to come into the starboard layline with clear air and options to find a hole.

Rules sailing upwind

Rules while sailing upwind: – Starboard tack boat has right of way (Rule 10 – On Opposite Tacks). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – While tacking (Rule 13 – While Tacking). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Starboard tack boat cannot hunt the port tack boat (Rule 16.2 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

3.1.6 Rounding the Windward Mark

– If you are on port tack and there are other boats coming to the mark on starboard and will overlap you, then you probably do not want to finish your tack inside the three-boatlength circle. – Try to hit the starboard-tack layline (including current) so you don’t overstand requiring you to sail a longer course or understand requring you to do two more tacks. This generally means do not tack onto the starboard- tack layline until you are close enough to the mark to accurately judge where the layline is. Also, try to not reach the starboard-tack layline too early if it forces you to sail a long way in dirty air. – Figure out what you can do to get around the mark taking into account the other boats. – Try to locate the leeward mark before rounding the windward mark so you know which way to go downwind. – Try to determine if you are on a lift or header when rounding the windward mark. This will help you decide to do a bear-away set or a gybe set of the spinnaker when going downwind. – As you approach the windward mark, watch for boats that have already rounded the windward mark and are heading downwind. – After you have rounded the windward mark, watch for other boats still going to the windward mark.

Rules at the windward mark

Rules that generally come into play when two (or more) port-tack overlapped boats are coming up to starboard tack boats on the starboard-tack layline. The starboard tack boats are obstructions to the port tack boats: – Rule 19.2 – Giving Room at an Obstruction – Rule 20.1 – Hailing – Rule 20.2 – Responding – Rule 20.3 – Passing On a Hail to an Additional Boat Rules at the windward mark: – When Rule 18 applies and when it doesn’t (Rule 18.1 – When Rule 18 Applies). – When the inside boat is allowed mark room (Rule 18.2 – Giving Mark-Room). – (Rule 18.3 – Tacking in the Zone). – Starboard tack boat has right of way (Rule 10 – On Opposite Tacks). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped).

15 – While tacking (Rule 13 – While Tacking). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Starboard tack boat cannot hunt the port tack boat (Rule 16.2 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

3.1.7 Reach Legs

– You must decide if you are going to use the spinnaker on the reach. – Have neutral helm; raise the centerboard until you have neutral helm. – Let the main out until it just begins to luff. Keep playing the main to keep it on the edge of a luff. – Adjust the vang to get the top batten parallel to the boom. At this point the telltale off the top batten of the main will stream straight back. – If you are ahead of a clump of boats you may need to go high in order to not let them get by you. If you are behind, then you can go to the rhumb line and sail a shorter course. It is difficult to pass a boat by going higher than them. – If you are behind a clump of boats you may be able to wait until not too far from the gybe mark and then head low and try to get an inside overlap to get mark room.

Rules sailing on a reach

Rules while sailing on a reach: – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

3.1.8 Rounding the Gybe Mark 3.1.9 Reach-To-Reach Gybe Rules at the gybe mark

Rules at the gybe mark: – When Rule 18 applies and when it doesn’t (Rule 18.1 – When Rule 18 Applies). – When the inside boat is allowed mark room (Rule 18.2 – Giving Mark-Room). – (Rule 18.4 – Gybing). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

16 3.1.10 Downwind Leg

– Downwind sailing is about sailing lower faster. – When you are on a run, it is usually more difficult to get into a “groove” than it is when you are beating. That is because you do not have the reassuring tug of weather helm or the guiding pressure of apparent wind in your face. As a result, you must work extra hard at steering after you go around the windward mark. Here are some guidelines to remember: ∗ Tune in to “feel” – The last thing you should do is steer the boat by aiming for the next mark or by dialing in a compass heading. There are two basic ways to feel the boat downwind: The first is by sensing the amount of wind pressure you have, and whether this pressure is increasing or decreasing. Guage this by noticing changes in the boat’s angle of heel or changes in the amount of pull on the helm. The second way to feel the boat is by trying to estimate changes in your speed (i.e. whether you are accelerating or decelerating). You can gauge this primarily by the sound, look, and feel of how your boat is going through the water. You can also judge your performance relative to nearby boats. ∗ Keep the boat going fast – One of the best rules of thumb, especially in lighter wind, is to err on the fast side. In other words, it is usually better to sail a little too high and fast than to sail too low and too slow. By maintaining speed, it will be easier to keep the boat going well when you get a wind shift, a lull, or a set of bad waves. Also it will make it easier to gybe, play the waves, or move tactically relative to other boats. ∗ Communicate with your sail trimmers – The person who may have the best sense of wind pressure changes is the spinnaker trimmer. The spinnaker trimmer has a direct feel for the amount of pressure (i.e. pull) on the sail. With the pressure building you can head lower. With the pressure dropping you should head up to build speed. ∗ Sail lower in the puffs and higher in the lulls. ∗ When in a puff downwind you are in it longer (than upwind) so it’s important to find the puffs. The three things to focus on are: 1. which gybe points closer to the mark. Play the course more than the fleet – get there the fastest. 2. which gybe puts you in a clean lane. 3. which gybe puts you in the most breeze. Balance those three things as much as you can. ∗ There are differing opinions on how far, if at all, to raise the centerboard. ∗ One technique is to get the centerboard up as much as possible as long as it doesn’t slosh around side to side. ∗ When going downwind, you should adjust the vang so that you can get the top batten and telltale perpendicular to the wind. This will present a little more mainsail to the wind. ∗ Watch the boats behind you to see what wind you will get. ∗ Get clear air from boats behind you. ∗ Course skew – sail the gybe which points you more towards the leeward mark. Thus, you will sail the side of the course that the wind hits first. This is the shortest distance to the mark, while getting the pressure first. ∗ Wave skew – when the waves are not in line with the wind. Do not ride the waves if they take you high from the rhumb line. Sail lower towards the mark even if you are initially slower. You will make your gains during the second half of the leg when the boats that went high have to gybe to head toward the leeward mark. ∗ Check your VMG down the ladder rungs to see if you are gaining or losing on the competition – higher, the same, lower; faster, the same, slower. ∗ A possible strategy is to sail the headed gybe the first half of the leg and then gybe back for the second half of the leg. ∗ Reduce rudder drag – Unlike beating, where a bit of helm in the rudder is good for feel and lift, when you are running you mostly want a neutral helm to minimize drag. Therefore, you should position your crew weight to heel the boat so when you let go of the tiller the boat keeps going straight. Except in wavy conditions, you should also minimize rudder movement to reduce turbulence. Keep your helm still and use your weight and sail trim as much as possible to steer. ∗ Running in windy and/or wavy conditions – In windy and/or wavy conditions, the best way to stay in control and going fast is to steer the boat under the sail(s). If your rig rolls to leeward, bear off to get the hull under the mast. If your rig rolls to windward, head up to get the hull under the mast. The idea is to keep the mast roughly vertical by steering your boat so the bottom of the mast stays under the top. – Have neutral helm; you may have to heel the boat slightly to windward.

17 – Let the main out until it just begins to luff. Keep playing the main to keep it on the edge of a luff. The telltale off the top batten should stream straight back. This may not be possible on a light air run. – Adjust the vang to keep the top batten a little leeward (unless it is really breezy) of parallel to the boom. This will allow the telltale off the top batten to stream straight back. There is a tendancy to pull on too much vang in light wind and too little vang in heavy wind. – Adjust the spinnaker pole height so the tack and clew are the same height or so the center seam of the spinnaker is parallel to the mast. Adjust the spinnaker pole a little lower in light and choppy conditions for more control of the spinnaker. – Adjust the guy to get the spinnaker pole perpendicular to the wind. Err on having the pole too far forward. This keeps the spinnaker further out from the boat. – Keep a 6 to 12 inch curl in the luff of the spinnaker. Do this by making small (2 − 4 inch) adjustments in the sheet and guy. A good technique is to reduce the curl by easing the guy while simultaneously trimming the sheet. The sheet needs to be trimmed about twice as much as the guy is eased. Similarly, increase the curl by trimming the guy while simultaneously easing the sheet. Also easing the guy gets it into position for a pump of the sheet and guy on the next wave. When you are on a tight reach or it is windy, you may have to cleat the guy and just play the spinnaker sheet. – Center the traveler. – Ease the outhaul a little. In heavier wind the outhaul does not need to be eased. – Ease the cunningham. – When sailing on a wave, keep your weight aft so you do not bury the bow when coming off the wave. – Downwind you may be able to block the wind of the boat just ahead. Look at the other boat’s mast head fly and line your sail up with the arrow. This works because it is his apparent wind that you are trying to block. – Do not get to either layline too early. When you are close to a layline you lose your options to gybe to play windshifts. To minimize this risk you should sail the longer tack first. This will keep you near the middle of the course. This is a good strategy unless there is a reason you want to go to the left or right side of the course. – On the last gybe try to approach on starboard tack so you can get an inside overlap.

Rules sailing downwind

Rules while sailing downwind: – Starboard tack boat has right of way (Rule 10 – On Opposite Tacks). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Starboard tack boat cannot hunt the port tack boat (Rule 16.2 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

3.1.11 Rounding the Leeward Mark

– If possible, round the leeward mark with a tactical rounding – wide-and-tight. (Tell the boat behind you that you are going wide-and-tight so they don’t try to go inside you.) By rounding wide-and-tight you will be able to sail the next upwind leg in a higher lane to keep clear air. – If gybing at the mark, perhaps it will be faster to have the middle crew trim in the main sheet while the skipper focuses on steering.

18 Rules at the leeward mark

Rules at the leeward mark: – When Rule 18 applies and when it doesn’t (Rule 18.1 – When Rule 18 Applies). – When the inside boat is allowed mark room (Rule 18.2 – Giving Mark-Room). – (Rule 18.4 – Gybing). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

3.1.12 Second Windward Leg

– This is the leg to attack. You are more spread out and you know where you are. So you want to try to pick off boats ahead of you. You can be more agressive on your tactics.

3.1.13 Last Windward Leg To The Finish

– Tacking duel: if you are ahead, stay close to the boat you are ahead of (close cover) when you don’t want him to go that way and do a loose cover when he is going the way you want him to go.

3.1.14 Finish

– Which end of the finish line is favored? As you are passing the finish line when on your last downwind leg you may be able to tell which end of the finish line is favored. – When behind, but close to another boat. Try to get right of the boat to get the starboard tack advantage on the approach to the finish line. – Pick the favored end of the finish line. This is the end that is more downwind. – If real close at the finish line, perhaps shoot the line.

Rules at the finish

Rules at the finish: – When Rule 18 applies and when it doesn’t (Rule 18.1 – When Rule 18 Applies). – When the inside boat is allowed mark room (Rule 18.2 – Giving Mark-Room). – (Rule 18.3 – Tacking in the Zone). – Starboard tack boat has right of way (Rule 10 – On Opposite Tacks). – Leeward boat has right of way (Rule 11 – On The Same Tack, Overlapped). – Clear ahead boat has right of way (Rule 12 – On The Same Tack, Not Overlapped). – While tacking (Rule 13 – While Tacking). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact). – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Right-of-way boat is changing course (Rule 16.1 – Changing Course). – Starboard tack boat cannot hunt the port tack boat (Rule 16.2 – Changing Course). – Limitation of a leeward boat to proper course (Rule 17 – On The Same Tack; Proper Course).

19 3.1.15 Post-Race Analysis

Can you determine why you finished in the position you did?

Some common mistakes: – Poor start. – Sailed in lighter wind than the boat/pack ahead of us. – Sailed a longer course than the boat/pack ahead of us. – Sailed in more adverse current than the boat/pack ahead of us. – Don’t have the necessary upwind boat speed to keep up. – Don’t have the necessary downwind boat speed to keep up. – Poor spinnaker set/douse. – Poor tacking. – Poor gybing.

20 Chapter 4

Boat Speed

4.1 Sail Controls

Sail controls are used to shape the sail to get the net force on the sail to be as large and forward as possible. The sails will be shaped differently depending on the strength of the wind, the point of sail, and the conditions of the water (i.e. flat water, chop, waves). Sail controls allow you to: – Change the angle of attack of the wind on the sail. – Change the shape of the sail. – Change the twist along the leech of the sail. The sail shape has two main components: – Control amount of depth (draft) in the sail. ∗ Deepen your sails to increase power. ∗ Flatten your sails to decrease power. – Control where the draft is located in the sail. ∗ Put the deepest draft about 40 − 45% of the way back from the luff to the leech for both the main and the jib. Twist allows you to better adjust the sail shape of the main and the jib at various heights to match the change in the wind speed with height above the water. This is important in light air as the wind speed tends to increase more dramatically with height in light air conditions as opposed to moderate or heavy air. Twist also allows you to spill off the wind toward the top of the sail to depower in heavy air.

4.2 Sail Trim

4.2.1 The Upwind Gears 1st – Starting to move gear Sheets eased out a lot, lots of twist in the main and jib, 55 − 60 degrees off the wind. 2nd – Acceleration or footing gear Main is eased out a foot or so with the top batten 10 − 20 degrees to leeward of the boom. The jib is eased a couple inches. Only mast bend is that due to prebend. Small overbend wrinkles are still showing. Maximum draft in the main. 3rd – Speed gear Main out a couple inches with a closed leech and the top batten parallel to the boom. Jib trimmed in so an imaginary batten half-way up the jib is parallel to the centerline of the boat; about one inch off the middle spreader. Moderate to almost maximum mast bend; overbend wrinkles in the main. Close-hauled and sailing in the groove. 21 4th – Speed plus pointing gear Main is trimmed in very tight with the top batten hooked 10 − 20 degrees to windward of the boom. The jib remains about one inch off the spreader. Maximum mast bend to flatten the sail. Maximum overbend wrinkles in the main. Pointing a little higher than 3rd gear. Probably cannot keep 4th gear very long; shift back to 3rd gear as soon as the boat starts to slow. Depowering – For those windy days Pull on all the controls (outhaul, vang, and cunningham) to flatten the main as much as possible. Lead the jib back and out to flatten and open the top of the jib. If necessary, drop the traveler until the boat can be sailed with neutral helm. If that is not enough, ease the jib a couple of inches to the middle of the rail, adjust the traveler to 2/3 to 3/4 down, vang on quite a bit, steer to keep the jib luffing 4 − 5 inches back of the luff, bring in the main until you start to heel, and play the main to keep the boat flat. Try feathering up once in awhile to gain distance to windward.

Change gears as needed

1. In the last seconds before a well timed start use 2nd gear to accelerate. 2. When starting to accelerate from a stop or very slow speed use 1st gear. Try to avoid this, but it may be required if you are in a poor position during a big fleet start. 3. When coming out of a tack start in 2nd gear. 4. When trying to get clear air shift between 2nd and 3rd gear to keep your boat speed up. 5. Most of the time you are in 3rd gear. 6. To point, first get boat speed which will allow your blades (centerboard and rudder) to point you higher. 7. When your boat speed is good in 3rd gear, use 4th gear to point a liitle higher while keeping your boat flat. You cannot stay in 4th gear very long. 8. When your boat starts to slow down go back to 3rd gear. When you start to lose boat speed, ease your main and fall off a bit to get your boat speed back up to where you can point. 9. After crashing into a wave use 2nd gear to accelerate.

4.2.2 Mainsail Trim

Upwind – The mainsail should generally be trimmed for 3rd or 4th gear. Reaching and Downwind – Let the main out until it just begins to luff and then trim in to remove the luffing. When the sail controls are set properly the top telltale off the leech of the main will stream straight back or flicker behind the sail up to half the time.

4.2.3 Jib Trim

Look through the window in the main to see the distance between the jib and the middle spreader of the mast. Upwind – Ideally you want 100 − 200 (jib to spreader distance) of trim through puffs/lulls and waves. Any tighter you will close off the slot between the main and jib; any looser you will lose height (pointing ability).

4.2.4 Spinnaker Trim Spinnaker Guy Trim

The goal with the pole is to keep it back as far as possible. This will position the pole roughly at right angles to the apparent wind direction. Adjusting the pole is as important as adjusting the sheet, and they should be worked together to keep the spinnaker positioned correctly to the wind.

Spinnaker Sheet Trim

The spinnaker sheet should be adjusted often, with the goal being to have the spinnaker trimmed out as far as possible. The spinnaker trimmer should always be working to keep something less than about 6 − 1000 curl in the luff to assure that the spinnaker is trimmed out and away from the boat.

22 Figure 4.1: A polar plot for a Thistle in 12 knots of wind.

4.3 Steering

4.3.1 Polar plot

See Figure 4.1 for a polar plot for a Thistle in 12 knots of wind. It is interesting to see that the maximum VMG upwind is 3.2 knots and the maximum VMG downwind is 3.8 knots. The angle (not indicated) of maximum VMG upwind is labeled as “beating” and of maximum VMG downwind is labeled as “running”. Notice how the VMG falls off quickly when you “pinch”. The VMG also falls off as you “foot” even though the speed of the boat (length of the arrow) increases. A similar thing happens when you sail higher or lower than the maximum VMG angle when going downwind. The angles for maximum VMG upwind and downwind will change depending on the wind velocity, water condition (flat water, chop, waves), sail shape, etc.

23 Maximum Beam Broad Pinching Beating Footing Boat Speed Reach Reach Running VMG to wind (knots) 3.0 3.2 3.1 1.7 0.0 −3.8 −3.4 True Wind Angle (deg.) 42.0 45.0 48.0 70.0 90.0 157.0 180.0 Apparent Wind Angle (deg.) 31.9 33.1 35.0 50.8 67.4 146.0 180.0 True Wind Speed (knots) 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 Apparent Wind Speed (knots) 15.2 15.5 15.5 14.6 13.0 8.4 8.6 Boat Speed (knots) 4.0 4.5 4.7 5.1 5.0 4.1 3.4 Boat Speed as % of true wind speed 33.3 37.8 39.2 42.5 41.7 34.2 28.3 VMG as % of true wind speed 24.8 26.7 26.2 14.5 0.0 −31.5 −28.3

– This polar plot was created by measuring the boat speed as a function of the angle to the true-wind direction. Then a curve is drawn through all the plotted points. – Boat speed is given by the length of the vector from the origin to the plotted curve. – VMG is given by the length of this vector in the direction of the true-wind direction. – The maximum boat speed is 5.1 knots at 70◦ to the true-wind direction. – Maximum VMG upwind is 3.2 knots at 45◦ to the true-wind direction. (Note that the angle of our boat to the true-wind direction is not the apparent-wind direction we see at the masthead fly.) – Maximum VMG downwind is 3.8 knots at 23◦ (180◦ − 157◦) to the true-downwind direction. (Note that the angle of our boat to the true-wind direction is not the apparent-wind direction we see at the masthead fly.)

Here are some important things to remember: – Our goal is to maximize our VMG both upwind and downwind so that we cross the ladder rungs as quickly as possible. ∗ Note that there is only about a 6◦ difference in the true wind angle between pinching and footing which results in a 0.2 knot change in VMG. This is about a 6% change in VMG which is significant. Thus, there is a very small range of steering angles which will keep you in the groove. ∗ Downwind steering is much more forgiving. There is about a 20◦ difference in the true wind angle that results in a 0.2 knot change in VMG. So the downwind angle is much less critical than upwind so you might as well sail as low as possible until you start to see a drop off in VMG. – Boats sailing upwind generate three bad air zones: 1. Blanket zone is a direct shadow to leeward and behind 2. Backwind zone is to windward and behind, and causes a header for boats on the same tack 3. Rising and falling air creates a dome of weaker air around the boat – Even though there is a loss in VMG upwind and downwind there are good reasons to sail a little higher or a little lower: ∗ Upwind you may want to pinch up to a boat near you to slow them down by putting them in your wind shadow. ∗ Upwind you may want to foot to get to a wind shift more quickly. ∗ Downwind you may want to sail higher or lower to either put another boat in your wind shadow or to escape the wind shadow of a boat astern of you. ∗ Downwind you may want to sail higher to get to a wind shift more quickly.

4.3.2 Steering techinique

– Upwind: Set the jib (generally 1” - 1 1/2” away from the spreaders in the upper main window. Steer upwind to your jib telltales (with the inner telltales rising up about 45◦) and trim your mainsail to the leech top telltale – trim in until the top-batten leech telltale tends to disappear to leeward of the main about 50% of the time.

24 Chapter 5

Boat Handling

5.1 Tacking the Boat

1. Do not cleat the main sheet during the tack. 2. Overtrim the main to head the boat up slowly. The skipper can adjust the rate which the boat heads up by leaning in to increse the rate or leaning out to reduce the rate. 3. Let the tiller go slowly to leeward. 4. Push the tiller further until the end of the tiller is about at the rail. 5. If roll tacking, hike hard to windward just as the boom is about to cross the boat and until the rail is near (or just touching) the water. 6. Release the jib when the boat reaches head to wind. 7. Ease the main to 2nd gear – i.e. ease the mainsheet about a foot. 8. Cross the boat. The tendancy is to cross the boat too early. 9. With light wind, one person (not the skipper) may stay in the middle or on the leeward side. The skipper needs to be able to cross the boat to the rail in order to see the jib telltales for steering. 10. While crossing, the skipper centers the tiller. 11. While crossing, the middle trims the jib to 2nd gear. One technique is to grab the new jib sheet right by the block and push it toward the leeward rail while looking at the foot of the jib to position it at the outside of the rail. Note that the slack was taken out of the lazy jib sheet before beginning the tack. 12. Hike the boat flat on the new side. 13. Trim the main and jib to 3rd gear as you gain speed.

5.1.1 Rules while tacking

Rules while tacking: – While tacking (Rule 13 – While Tacking).

5.2 Raising the Spinnaker

1. When on port tack, the forward gets the spinnaker halyard and port spinnaker sheet free. 2. When on starboard tack and assured of laying the mark, the forward puts up the spinnaker pole, adjusts the topping lift to get the correct pole height, and puts the guy in the guy hook and cleat, removing any slack. 3. As the skipper rounds the mark and heads down, the middle eases the vang and raises the centerboard half way. 4. The skipper hoists the spinnaker. A stopper is put in the halyard so the head of the spinnaker is 6 to 8 inches from the mast.

25 5. As the spinnaker goes up, the forward pushes the pole forward and the middle quickly trims the guy (pulling on the guy aft of the guy hook) to the proper fore/aft position to get the pole perpendicular to the wind. 6. The middle trims the sheet to keep something less than about 6 to 10 inches of curl in the luff of the spinnaker. 7. The forward drops the jib.

5.3 Gybing the boat

1. The middle trims both the sheet and the guy with the guy now trimmed from the the point where it has passed through all the blocks, taking out any slack in the guy. 2. Either the forward or preferably the middle takes the guy out of the guy hook. 3. The skipper heads down to a run and trims the main off the shroud allowing the forward to go under and forward of the boom. 4. Just before or as you gybe, the middle works the spinnaker pole back to the run position and the clew forward to the forestay. This will minimize the chances of the wind getting behind the spinnaker causing a wrap around the forestay or a collapse. It also makes it easier for the forward to reach the new guy. Never let the clew get to the same side of the forestay as the tack. 5. Once the pole is back to the run position, the forward takes the pole off the mast and old guy. If the weight of the forward on the leeward side is too much for boat balance, for example on a reach with strong wind, then the forward takes the pole off the mast and guy from the windward side. 6. The forward attaches the pole to the new guy, pushes the pole forward to the spinnaker tack, and attaches the pole to the mast. The middle can help here by holding the new guy in and down from above the rail. 7. At the same time the middle is straddling the centerboard trunk, flying the chute, and ducking the boom. If the spinnaker needs to be dumped let out a lot of (new) sheet, never dump the guy. 8. At the same time the skipper continues to steer down, rolls the boat slightly to windward causing the boom to cross, crosses the boat while ducking the boom, and steers back down (on the new tack) to complete the S-turn. In heavy air this step must be modified. In heavy air you cannot steer by the lee very far to get the boom to go over on its own. Steering an S-turn in heavy air is a good way to capsize. Instead the middle uses the boomvang to pull the boom across when the boat is sailing directly down wind. 9. The forward attaches the guy to the new guy hook and cleat. 10. The middle adjusts the fore/aft position of the pole by adjusting the guy from above the rail. At the same time, the middle adjusts the sheet from below the rail to trim the spinnaker luff so that it is on the edge of a curl.

5.3.1 Rules while gybing

Rules while gybing: – Acquiring Right Of Way (Rule 15 – Acquiring Right Of Way). – Avoid contact (Rule 14 – Avoiding Contact).

5.4 Dropping the Spinnaker

1. The forward adjusts the cunningham and outhaul for upwind sailing. 2. The forward hoists the jib with the sheets under-trimmed. 3. The skipper lowers the centerboard and makes sure the spinnaker halyard is free to run. 4. The middle adjusts the vang, if necessary. 5. When dropped to weather, the forward releases the pole free from the mast and guy. The pole is left hanging from the topping lift unless there is enough time to remove it. As the middle eases the sheet, the forward pulls on the guy then the luff and foot of the spinnaker until the clew is clear of the forestay. Then the skipper eases the halyard and the forward pulls the spinnaker down into the boat.

26 6. When dropped to leeward, the pole stays up. The forward goes under and forward of the boom. The middle over-trims the sheet until the forward can reach the spinnaker. Then the forward pulls the spinnaker along the foot until the middle seam is reached. Then as the skipper eases the spinnaker halyard and the middle releases the sheet and guy, the forward pulls the spinnaker down into the boat. If you have to gybe immediately, the middle gets the spinnaker pole while the forward is pulling in the spinnaker. 7. The skipper heads up while quickly trimming the main. 8. The middle trims the jib and adjusts the vang for upwind sailing. 9. The forward puts the pole away once we are on starboard tack.

5.5 Methods to depower the boat as the wind speed increases

As the wind speed increases, the boat can be depowered in the following order: 1. Hike more to keep the boat flat. 2. Pull on the vang. 3. Traveler down. Ease the jib a couple inches. 4. Traveler back to the middle, vang off, ease the main, ease the jib more.

5.6 Crew Responsibilities

Sailboat racing is a team sport. It is very satisfying when the team works well together. Every one on the team should: – Watch for other boats. ∗ Most importantly, so you can avoid them using the rules to determine what action needs to be taken. ∗ It’s also required to implement tactics to execute your strategy. ∗ To compare your boat speed and direction with those around you – higher, the same, lower; faster, the same, slower. ∗ So you can anticipate what their next move might be so you are not taken by surprise. – Communicate what you see – more wind (puff), less wind (lull), whose tacking, whose gybing, etc. – to execute your strategy. – Keep the boat flat using your weight (hiking when needed).

5.6.1 Upwind Racing Mode The way the skipper and crew race a Thistle upwind is drastically different depending on whether 1) the wind speed is low enough that the boat is underpowered (fully-trimmed) mode and we need to find ways to power up the sails or 2) the wind speed is high enough that the boat is overpowered (fully-hiked) mode and we need to find ways to depower the sails. With the boat setup properly for the given wind conditions and with the vang loose, you sail a close-hauled course to see if the main can be sheeted in for maximum VMG with the skipper and crew positioning themselves to keep the boat flat. If the wind is strong enough that the boat cannot be kept flat even with the crew fully-hiked then you are in overpowered (fully-hiked) mode. Otherwise, you are in underpowered (fully-trimmed) mode. The transition from underpowered (fully-trimmed) to overpowered (fully-hiked) mode occurs at about 8-12mph true wind speed, depending on your total crew weight and how much you are capable/willing to hike. If you are in overpowered (fully-hiked) mode, all three crew should hike as hard as they can such that they can keep this position for as long as they are on this particular tack. The idea in overpowered (fully-hiked) mode is for the crew to not move as the wind changes speed and direction while the skipper moves the main in and out to keep the boat at a constant amount of heel and steers to keep the boat pointing in the direction for maximum VMG. If you are in underpowered (fully-trimmed) mode, one of more (depending on what is needed) of the crew will move their weight in and out to keep the boat at a constant (very flat) amount of heel. The skipper trims the main to keep the telltale on the upper batten flowing about 50% of the time, while slightly stalling (where the telltale flows to the leeward side of the main) 50% of the time. The skipper also steers the boat as dictated by the flow of the telltales on the luff of the jib. 27 5.7 Sail Controls 5.7.1 Mainsail Main Halyard The mainsail should be raised and cleated at the second ball in the main halyard.

Mast Prebend If possible, set the prebend of the mast so that there is the correct amount of overbend wrinkles for the particular wind speed. When sailing in the underpowered (fully-trimmed) mode (up to about 10mph true wind speed) there should be evidence of overbend wrinkles developing in the mainsail running from the area of the lower diamond diagonally down towards the clew of the main. The overbend wrinkles should extend to perhaps the middle of the window. In heavy winds (over 15 to 18 mph) or in flat water, these overbend wrinkles could be quite pronounced and should actually run back to near the aft edge of the window. On the other hand, if the overbend wrinkles go past the aft end of the window, then you have too much prebend. The amount of prebend is adjusted by placing up to 3/16” of shims between the aft portion the the mast butt and the mast step.

Boomvang The boom vang is a great tool to induce mast bend while going upwind. As you pull on the vang when sailing upwind, the boom is forced into the bottom of the mast forcing it to rock on the mast step. This forces mast bend and flattens out the main. It also takes the load off of the main sheet and allows you to be more aggressive with trimming in and out through the puffs and lulls. The vang should be viewed as an extension of the mainsheet and be eased off to add power and pulled on to decrease power. When reaching, enough vang tension should be applied to keep the top batten parallel with the boom. For running, the top batten would be trimmed in the same manner or twisted off a touch. If you are sailing by the lee, the vang should definitely be set to allow the top batten to twist off a few degrees from the boom. The tendency is to usually have the vang too tight on a run and too loose when reaching. In strong winds try some vang upwind so when you have to sheet out in puffs the boom will not go up too much. The traveler can also be dropped some, as it will keep the headstay a little tighter than just using the boom vang.

Cunningham The Cunningham is used to tension and ease the luff of the mainsail. When the wind starts to build and you can no longer keep the boat flat with everyone hiking, you will begin to apply the vang to depower the boat. At the same time you will want to apply more Cunningham to pull the draft of the main sail forward to its original position. As the wind gets stronger the boom vang and the cunningham are each incresed in tension.

Outhaul The outhaul is used to put shape in the lower portion of the main. Pull it tight enough to leave only a couple inches of shelf in the foot of the main.

Traveler In heavy air, the traveler can be lowered if further “depowering” of the mainsail is required after the boomvang has been applied to its maximum.

5.7.2 Jib Jib Halyard We use the jib halyard to properly maintain the position of the draft in the jib. A good guide to follow is to tension the jib halyard enough to just eliminate the “crows-feet” that come off the jib luff snaps. As the wind builds it will become necessary to tighten the jib halyard to maintain this trim. It is very important not to have the halyard too tight, so be sure to ease it off some as soon as the wind gets lighter. The Thistle also has a jib-halyard fine adjustment on the 45’s that is used for small adjustments to the jib halyard tension. 28 Jib Leads – Fore/Aft

The fore/aft position of the jib leads are set further aft as the wind strength builds. The fore/aft position of the jib leads can be set by lining up a line drawn near the clew of the jib with the jib sheet.

5.7.3 Spinnaker Spinnaker Halyard

As long as the spinnaker is supporting itself and not drooping, the halyard should be let off about 600 from being all the way up. This will allow the sail to get away from the main for greater projection.

Spinnaker Pole Height

The height of the pole greatly affects the shape of the spinnaker. A good guide is to keep the clews of the spinnaker even with each other. Another guide is to keep the center-seam of the spinnaker parallel to the mast.

5.8 Boat Controls

5.8.1 Centerboard

Upwind – It is quite likely that you will encounter an excessive amount of weather helm. To alleviate this problem and give the helm a nicer touch, the centerboard can be moved back in the trunk (which will balance out the sail plan). To do this, simply pull the rollers back from the hump and along the vertical run leading to the trunk. This movement can amount to about 200 in flat water and up to the maximum amount possible when hiking or in waves. The goal is to balance the helm, so move the rollers back as far as you need to accomplish this goal. Reaching – The forward crew should be on the control line and talking with the helmsman on how high the centerboard can be. The goal is to have the board as high as possible while still keeping the boat from slipping sideways. You can also raise the centerboard some to obtain neutral helm when reaching. Running – You should be able to pull the board up all the way. However, be sure to have the forward crew near the control line in case the boat starts rolling or you need to head up. For these situations, the board should be lowered some.

29 Chapter 6

Preparation

30 Chapter 7

Some Miscellaneous Topics

7.1 Neutral Helm

7.2 Learn to Sail by Feel

7.3 Anticipate; Plan Ahead

7.4 Techniques for slowing your boat or sailing backwards

7.5 Techniques to turn the boat quickly

31 Chapter 8

Practice

– If you did not win the race or finish close behind the winner, figure out why. During what portion of the race did you fall back the most: at the start, the first upwind leg, on the run, around the leeward mark, etc? What was it that caused you to fall back the most: lack of upwind boat speed, poor tacks, took too long to get the spinnaker flying, etc? – Divide and conquer – try to figure out exactly what it is that needs work. For example, lack of upwind boat speed could be due to poor steering, or poor movement of the main sail, or having too much weather helm because the boat is not being sailed flat enough. – Ask a fast person for some help. – Once identified, focus on your weaknesses during your practice. For example, practice raising the spinnaker (jib down), gybing, and (jib up) lowering the spinnaker. – Go to a session of “Race Crew Training”.

32 Appendix A

Terminology

Strategy is the plan you make for how to sail around the course as quickly as possible if you were the only boat. (As opposed to Tactics) Tactics are the boat-on-boat moves you make to execute your strategy and control your competition. (As opposed to Strategy) Velocity Made Good (VMG) is the speed your boat moves in the direction perpendicular to the ladder rungs. The ladder rungs are a set of (imaginary) equally spaced, parallel lines extending which are perpendicular to the true wind direction you are currently sailing in. See Figure C.1 for a diagram of ladder rungs and how they change due to a windshift. So VMG is a measure of how fast you are moving up (to the windward mark) or down (to the leeward mark) while sailing the course. Rhumb Line An imaginary straight line from the middle of the starting line to the windward mark. Or an imagninary straight line from the windward to the leeward mark. Laylines These are the imaginary straight lines extending from a mark. From a windward mark they indicate the close-hauled (maximum VMG upwind) course to sail to just make it around the mark. From a leeward mark (or gate mark) they indicate the broad-reaching or running (maximum VMG downwind) course to sail to just make it around the leeward mark (or gate mark). There is no layline to a gybe mark. There are also laylines to the two starting line marks and the two finishing line marks. The laylines will rotate as the wind changes direction. The laylines will get narrower or wider (especially downwind) as the wind changes speed. Laylines can also rotate, widen, and narrow as the current changes strength and direction. Ladder Lines or Ladder Rungs Ladder lines (or rungs) are imaginary straight lines which are perpendicular to the direction of the true wind direction. This assumes the true wind direction is the same over the entire course, which is often not the case. Still they are useful for thinking about strategy. Ladder rungs will rotate as the wind changes direction. Your strategic goal on upwind and downwind legs is to move up or down the ladder rungs as quickly as possible while staying within the laylines. On a Thistle you can sight along the 45 on the windward side of the boat to look along the ladder rung you are currently on. Thus you can get a good idea of who is ahead and behind you when you are well separated. When sailing close-hauled upwind on a Thistle, the 45s line up closely with a ladder rung. By sighting along this line you can get a good idea of which boats are ahead or behind you. Wind Terms– Stable wind – steady in direction and speed. – Shifty wind: ∗ Random – Offshore breeze - no rhyme or reason to what is happening. The wind speed is usually up and down. ∗ Oscillating wind shift – the wind direction goes back and forth. ∗ Persistent wind shift – the wind direction moves further and further in the same direction - a rotation. This typically happens when a front comes in. Look for a change in the sky or in wind speed. – Sea breeze – an onshore wind (wind direction from the sea to the shore). Tight Cover A tight cover is when you put a boat into your wind shadow.

33 Figure A.1: Points of Sail

Loose Cover A loose cover is when you sail between one or more boats and the next mark. Various Points of Sail See Figure A.1 for what we call the various points of sail.

34 Appendix B

NCSC Race Course

See Figure B.1 for a map of the racing area at NCSC for our “around-the-buoys” races.

– Notice the depth of the water in feet. – The current tends to flow faster in the deeper areas. – The strength and direction of the current is often a very important factor for your strategy.

35 Figure B.1: The NCSC Racing Area

36 Appendix C

Leverage and Ladder Rungs

Leverage is a boat’s potential to gain or lose when the wind changes direction. The larger the lateral (i.e. perpendicular to the true wind direction) distance of separation between two boats, the more leverage thay have on each other. Leverage is especially important whenever the wind is shifting persistently because this wind does not return to a median direction, so gains and losses are more ‘permanent’ than with oscillating shifts. In addition, persistent shifts are often larger. See Figure C.1 for how the ladder rungs change due to a windshift. Table C.1 shows the actual values for the percentage of lateral distance of separation that is gained or lost. The formula used to get these values is: x = d sin θ/ cos φ (C.1) where x is the distance (along the direction the boat is heading) gained or lost relative to the other boat, d is the lateral distance of separation, θ is the size of the windshift, and φ is the angle between your boat heading and the true-wind direction (which is one-half your boat’s tacking angle).

Table C.1: Gains (losses) due to leverage as a result of a wind shift. Your boat’s Size of wind shift tacking angle 5◦ 10◦ 15◦ 20◦ 25◦ 30◦ 35◦ 40◦ 45◦ 90◦ 12% 25% 37% 48% 60% 71% 81% 91% 100% 80◦ 11% 23% 34% 45% 55% 65% 75% 84% 92% 70◦ 11% 21% 32% 42% 52% 61% 70% 78% 86% Gain (loss) as % of lateral distance of separation

A good way to remember this is to call it the “10 − 25 rule”, meaning that in a 10◦ wind shift you will gain or lose roughly 25% of the lateral separation distance between you and the other boat.

37 Figure C.1: The change in the ladder rungs due to a windshift.

38 Appendix D

Apparent Wind

The apparent wind is the wind velocity (direction and speed) as experienced on the boat. See Figure D.1. The apparent wind velocity A~ is the vector sum of the true wind W~ and the wind due to the motion of the boat through the water H~ . This is complicated by the fact that the boat’s motion through the water is not quite in the direction the bow is pointing, but includes leeway (sideways drift). The current also complicates the picture. The wind velocity due to current is usually added to the true wind velocity. Thus, the true wind velocity is what is experienced when the boat is stationary relative to the water. The wind indicators on the boat like the masthead fly and telltales on the shrouds are showing you the apparent wind A~.

Figure D.1: Apparent Wind Diagram

39 Appendix E

Forces on the Boat

E.1 Lift and Drag on a Sail

See Figure E.1. What is shown is the Lift Coefficient as a function of the Angle of Attack on the jib sail. A jib sheeted in for close-hauled sailing has less angle of attack than for close reaching. In this plot we have sheeted the jib in for close-hauled sailing. The curve shows how the Lift Coefficient changes as we steer the boat from a pinching mode (the left end of the curve), to close-hauled (maximum lift-to-drag) with maximum VMG, to footing (maximum lift), to close reaching (jib is stalling). Notice how the windward and leeward telltales indicate the lift-to-drag ratio. See Figure E.2. Whenever a fluid flow exerts a force upon an object in a direction perpendicular to the uninterrupted flow of that fluid we say that lift is generated. When a force acts in the direction of the fluid flow, we call the force drag. We call the object interrupting an airflow an airfoil and an object interrupting a water flow a hydrofoil. The study of fluid flow around an object is for air called aerodynamics and for water called hydrodynamics. Because lift and drag are defined as being perpendicular to one another, any force acting on a foil can, using trigonometry, be divided into a lift component and a drag component. By separating the force into these two components we can study the relationships between lift, drag, the shape of the foil, and the angle of the foil to the flow.

40 Figure E.1: Lift and Drag on a Sail

Figure E.2: Forces on a Sailboat

41