Chapter 16 Haircutting

Chapter 16

Haircutting

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. “Although fate presents the circumstances, how you react depends on your character.”

– Anonymous

• Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting. • Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair.

• Reference points –Parietal ridge –Occipital bone

• Apex

• Four corners

• Top • Nape

• Front • Back

• Sides • Fringe

• Crown

• Straight lines

• Angles

• Straight Lines – Horizontal – Vertical – Diagonal

• Angles: beveling, stacking

• Elevation: angle at which hair is held from head

• Sections: uniform working areas

• Subsections: smaller partings

• Graduation: layers described in degrees

• Below 90 degrees: builds weight

• Above 90 degrees: removes weight

• Cutting line: angle at which fingers are held when cutting

• Stationary guide (does not move)

• Traveling guide (moves as haircut progresses)

• Blunt, one-length cut

• 90-degree elevation

• 45-degree with 90-degree

• Overdirection

• What does client want?

• How much time is available?

• What is lifestyle?

• What is preferred look (classic or trendy)?

• Pull hair back or wrap with towel.

• Note length and width of face.

• Note balance of features. – Weight and volume – Profiles

• Hairline: the outermost perimeter along face, around ears, and on neck

• Growth pattern: direction hair grows from scalp

• Hairlines and growth patterns

• Density (hairs per square inch)

• Texture (diameter of a hair strand)

• Wave pattern (amount of movement in the hair strand)

• Haircutting shears • Straight razor

• Clippers • Trimmers • Sectioning clips • Wide-tooth comb • Tail comb • Barber comb • Styling/cutting comb

• Steel – Gauging hardness – Rockwell hardness

• Cast shears

• Forged shears

• Cutting edge

• Pivot

• Adjustment knob

• Finger tang

• Ring-finger hole

• Thumb hole

• Daily cleaning and lubrication

• Daily tension adjustment and balancing

• Weekly cleaning and lubrication

• Disinfecting shears

• Sharpening shears

• Consider dominant hand design

• Know how manufactured

• Learn about steel quality

• Decide on correct blade edge

• Select best handle design

• Be sure of fit

• Hold shears in hand.

• Swivel thumb shears.

• Learn about service agreement.

• Ask about warranty.

• Analyze cost.

• Determine how many needed.

• Fitting ring finger

• Fitting thumb

• Relaxing grip

• Correct finger position and alignment

• Method A – Open razor so handle is higher than shank. – Place thumb on thumb grip. – Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. – Place little finger in tang. – Position razor on top of subsection

• Method B – Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. – Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. – Palm razor by curling ring finger and little finger around razor. – Hold comb between razor and index and middle fingers.

• Position the client. – Sitting straight – Legs not crossed

• Center your weight. – Knees slightly bent, not locked – Bend one knee to lean slightly

• Stand in front of section being cut.

• Cutting over fingers

• Cutting below fingers

• Cutting palm-to-palm

• Palm shears.

• Do not cut past second knuckle.

• Take care around ears.

• Balance shears and place knuckles.

• Use razor guard.

• Dispose of blades carefully.

• Shrinks more than straight hair

• Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb)

• Naturally “graduates” itself

• Expands more than straight hair

• No razor

• Texturizing techniques

• Can use stationary guide

• Short bangs make strong statement.

• Slide cut long fringe.

• Cut small portion of fringe.

• To blend or not to blend

• Razor parallel to subsection at 45-degree angle

• Razor held at 45-degree angle.

• Effective with blonde hair

• Guide above fingers

• Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair.

• Always use a guard.

• Always use a new blade.

• Keep hair wet.

• Hold razor at an angle; never force.

• Used to cut or thin hair

• Blends shorter hair to longer

• Useful in texturizing

• Only on wet hair

• Hair held in place with comb.

• Shear tips remove length.

• Method used to create short tapers.

• Works best on dry hair.

• Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide.

• Do not hold hair between fingers.

• Shears and comb move up head together.

• Strive for continual motion.

• Stand in front of client.

• Place comb.

• Move comb up head.

• Angle comb to blend with longer hair.

• Work with small areas.

• Start at hairline and work up.

• Cross-check work diagonally.

• Use barber comb for close areas.

• Point-cutting and notching

• Free-hand notching

• Slithering or effilating

• Slicing

• Carving

• Carving the ends

• Removing weight

• Free-hand slicing

• Razor-over-comb

• Remove bulk or weight. – Section as for haircut. – Comb subsection from head. – Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. – Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair.

• Remove weight from ends.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor (continued)

• Thinning shears-over-comb

• Other thinning shears techniques

• Free-hand slicing with razor

• Razor-over-comb

• Razor rotation

• Work against natural growth pattern.

• Work in small sections (no wider than 3 inches).

• Determine comb angle.

• Using tool-over-comb method

• Cutting against comb

• Using length guard

• Brow and ear hair

• Take consistent, clean partings.

• Be aware of potential danger zones.

• Use consistent tension.

• Pay attention to head position.

• Maintain even moisture.

• Blunt haircut – Weight line – Stationary guide used

• Graduated haircut – Visual buildup of weight – Ends appear stacked – Traveling guide used

• Layered haircut – Less weight than graduated cuts – Creates movement and volume

• Long layered haircut – Gives volume to styles – Can be combined with other cuts – Layers increase form; short to longer toward perimeter

• Men’s basic clipper cut

• Pre-Service Procedure

• Post-Service Procedure

• Blunt haircut

• Graduated haircut – Classic graduated bob – Wedge – Shorter shape with rounded weight

• Keep elevation below 45 degrees with coarse textures and curly hair.

• Fine hair responds well to graduation.

• Check neckline carefully before cutting short.

• Always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure a precise line.

• Uniformed layered haircut

• Long-layered haircut

• Men’s basic clipper cut

• Pixie, cro, Caesar

• Squared layers

• Shag

• Cut the interior first.

• Do not cut thin hair too short.

• Do not cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches in length.

• Do not cut top layers too short.

• Use slide cutting to connect top sections to lengths.

• Work with guideline.

• Cross-check haircut.

• Use mirror to see elevation.

• Check both sides by standing in front.

• Leave curly hair longer.

• Men’s basic clipper cut

• What are reference points and what is their function?

• What are angles, elevations, and guidelines?

• What are important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation?

• What are the uses for a razor, haircutting shears, styling or cutting comb, and texturizing shears?

• Name three steps to ensuring good posture and body position while cutting hair.

• Name and describe four basic haircut types.

• Name and describe at least three different texturizing techniques performed with shears.

• What is a clipper cut?

• How is a trimmer used?

You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.